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M E M 1 B S 



REV. WALTER M. LOWRIE, 



MISSIONARY TO CHINA. 



EDITED BY HIS FATHER. 



FOURTH EDITION. 



L 



NEW YORK: 
BOARD OF FOREIGN MISSIONS OF THE PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, 

No. 23 CENTRE STREET. 
1851. 



.Lb/43 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1849, 
BY WALTER LOWRIE, 
In the Clerk's Office for the Southern District of New York 



STEREOTYPED BY THOMAS B. SMITH, 
216 WILLIAM STREET, N. Y. 



PREFACE. 



The Editor of this Memoir has done little more than to select 
and arrange the papers of his beloved son. A few remarks have 
been made with the view of noticing his early years, and connect- 
ing the different periods of his short but active and not unvaried 
life. The plan adopted was to let him speak for himself in his letters 
and journals ; though some letters from his missionary brethren, 
and others in the ministry at home, who knew him, have been 
given at the end of the volume. From these every reader will form 
his own estimate of his character and acquirements. A few of the 
many letters from Christian friends, as the sad intelligence of his 
death reached them, have also been inserted. 

His letters for the most part were hastily written, many of them 
in the confidence of Christian and endeared friendship. His jour- 
nals also were written at the dates mentioned, and his other en- 
gagements gave him no time to correct or copy them. 

Two volumes of private journals were found after his death 
among his papers ; but they were destroyed, in accordance with his 
special written request to his friend Rev. M. S. Culbertson, or either 
of his surviving colleagues. 

The work has been stereotyped, and the entire expense of 
this edition has been defrayed by Christian friends, to whom his 
memory is very dear. Whatever profit may arise from the sale 
will be applied to the enlargement of the Ningpo mission, under 
the care of the Board of Foreign Missions of the Presbyterian 
Church. 



PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION. 

A third edition of this work has been called for, within nine 
months of the time of its publication, each edition containing 
1000 copies. Much the largest number have been disposed of 
by the kind assistance of Ministers of the Presbyterian Church, 
to whom packages of ten copies each have been sent, direct from 
the Mission House. This plan has been most favorable to a 
wide diffusion of the work, and this has more than compensated 
for the trouble and expense of sending them to distant places. 
The entire work is owned by the Board of Foreign Missions, and 
every copy sold, besides aiding the funds, does something to pro- 
mote a missionary spirit by the information thus afforded. In 
view of all these circumstances, it has been deemed best that the 
work be now published by the Board itself. 

New Yobk, September, 1850. 



PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION. 

In this edition, it has been considered best to leave out fifty 
pages of the previous editions. • As this has been done chiefly 
by omitting the letters at the close of the volume, the Memoir 
itself remains as in former editions, whilst the price of the work 
has been reduced. 

New Yoek, September, 1851. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

FEBRUARY, 1819— SEPTEMBER, 1847. 
EARLY LIFE AND COURSE AT COLLEGE. 



LETTERS. 



EDa Father Religious Impressions, 

" Revival in College, . 

" First Communion, 

His Mother. Religious Views, 

Bis Father. Duty as to the Ministry, 

" Religious Views, 



His Mother. Foreign Missions. Death oi' 

Lyman and Monson, . . 12 

" Feelings. A Grave- Yard, . 13 

His Father. Duty as to Foreign Missions, . 15 

" The Question decided, . . 16 

" Through College. Grade, . 17 



CHAPTER II. 

OCTOBER, 1837— JANUARY, 1842. 

RETURN HOME FROM COLLEGE. — COURSE IN THE THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY AT 
PRINCETON. — ACCEPTED AS A FOREIGN MISSIONARY. SAILS FOR CHINA. 



John Lloyd. College Times. Missions, . 20 

Roger Owen. On Sabbath Schools, . . 23 

John'Lloyd. Swartz. Comfort in Christ, . 24 

Roger Owen. On Sabbath Schools, . . 26 

His Mother. Daily Employments, . . 28 

Roger Owen. Sabbath Schools. Missions, . 28 

His Mother. Christian Duties. Studies, . 30 

John M. Lowrie. Death of Relatives, . . 32 

John Lloyd. Personal Religion, . . .32 

Roger Owen. Tone of College Piety, . . 34 

John Lloyd. Love of Christ. Missions, . 35 

Roger Owen. Sabbath Schools, . . .36 

John Lloyd. Western Africa, . . .37 

His Mother. Seminary Students, . . .38 

John Lloyd. Africa. India. China, . . 39 

His Mother. Beauty of Scripture, , . 40 

Thomas W. Kerr. Missionary Spirit, . . 41 

John M. Lowrie. Study of the Bible, . . 41 

John Lloyd. Christian Course. Africa, . 42 



Two Sabbath School Scholars, 
His Mother. Strangers and Pilgrims, . 
John Lloyd. Studies. Works of God, . 
His Mother. Journey to the West, 
Executive Committee. Missions, . 
John Lloyd. Friendship. Prospects, . 
John O. Procter. How little we know, 
His Mother. The Country. Journey, . 
His Father. Change of Field to China, 
His Mother. Detroit. Forest. Flowers. Ni- 
agara. Grave- yard. Missiois, 

" Journey West 

Wm. H. Homblower. Presence of Christ, . 
John O. Procter. On leaving for China, 
John Lloyd. Feelings. Faith, 
Mrs. Ann Porter. On leaving Friends, . 
Rev. Thos. W. Kerr. Sabbath Schools, 
John M. Lowrie. On the Eve of Sailing, 



CHAPTER III. 



JANUARY 19— MAY 27, 1849. 

VOYAGE TO CHINA. — JOURNAL IN THE HUNTRESS. 



Parting from Friends, 

Sea Sickness, 

A Gale. Pleasant Days, . 
Carlyle. Sermon on board, . 
Reading. Wisdom of God. Stars, 
Sermon. Trade Winds. Flying-Fish, 
Trade Winds. The Sabbath, 
Studies. A Shark. Birth-day, 



71 ■ A Calm. Sunsets. Sailors, . 

72 i Stars. The Sailmaker, . 

73 j Rocks of Martin Vas. Stars, 
77 Magellan Clouds. Missions, 
79 I A Squall. The Ocean. Home, 
81 A Sailor. The Ocean. A Gale. Albatross, 

84 I Stormy Petrels. A Storm. Winds, . 

85 i A Ship. Dreams. Trade Winds, 



CONTENTS. 



Sabbath. Preaching to Sailors, . 
Kain. Sea Gnats. Thunder, 
An Island. Boobies. Java, 
Heathen. Ships. Angicr, . 



Angier. Malays. Learned Sailor, . . 121 

China Sja. Missions. Preaching, . . 123 

Sailmaker. Gales. China, .... 126 

Tr his Mother, with his Journal, ... 129 



CHAPTER IV. 

1842. 

-ANDING IN CHINA. — VOYAGE IN THE SEA QUEEN. — SHIPWRECK IN THE HARMONY.- 
RETURN TO MACAO. 



LETTERS AND JOURNALS. 



His Mother. Macao. Hong Kong, 
His Father. China. Missions, . 
John Lloyd. Mission to China, . 
His Mother. China Sea. Journal, 
Embarks. Lascars. Alone, 
Calms. Monsoon. Currents. Gale, 
Delays. Currents. Storms. Faith, 
Providence. The Parting, . 
Course of the Sea Queen, 
John M. Lowrie. Studies at Sea, 
Rev. T. L. McBryde. Plans delayed, 



His Mother. Scenes in Manila, . . . 160 

Rev. Thos. W. Kerr. Stay in Manila, . 161 

His Brother. Voyage on China Sea, . . 162 

Shipwreck in the Harmony, . . . . 165 

To the Second Presbytery of New York, . 178 

His Mother. Missionary" Trials, ... 182 

His Father. First Letter from Home, . 184 

His Mother. Letters from Home, . . 184 

James Lenox, Esq. Romanists in China, . 185 

His lather. Early Instruction, . . . 187 

John Lloyd. Missions in China, . . . 188 



CHAPTER V. 

1843. 

RESIDENCE IN MACAO. VOYAGE UP THE COAST. — DESCRIPTION OF AMOY AND 

CHANG-CHOW. — RETURN TO MACAO. 



LETTERS AND JOURNALS. 



Rev. J. M. Lowrie. Missions in China, . 193 
His Mother. Various Thoughts, . . . 194 
" Home. Heaven. Sabbath, . 196 
John Lloyd. Chinese Language, . . 198 
His Father. Effects of Heat. Preaching. Chi- 
nese Dictionary, 202 

Journal to Amoy and Chusan, . . .203 
Boat Population. Hong Kong, . . .204 
Opium. Amoy. Infanticide, . . . 206 
Grave of Mrs. Boone. Monsoon, . . 210 

Opium. Kulangsu, 212 

Budhist Temple 214 

River. Bay. Boats, 215 

Chang-Chow. Mandarins, .... 218 
The City. Bridges. Temples. . . 223 

Villages. Multitudes, . . 227 



Chobey. Haetang. Return to Amoy, . 229 

Remarks on the foregoing, .... 231 

Return. Storm. Danger, .... 234 

Good News from Home, .... 236 
Death of Rev. Mr. Dyer, . . . .237 

To his Father. Morrison's Bible, . . 238 

" Missionary Trials, . . 241 " 

His Brother. Perils of the Sea, . . 245 

Society of Inquiry, Western Theological 

Seminary, 246 

His Father. Missionary Statements, . . 251 

His Mother. Chinese "Customs, . . . 252 
Society of Inquiry, Princeton Theological 

Seminary, 254 

His Father. Sir Henrv Pottinger's censure 

of the Visit to Chang-Chow, . . .261- 



CHAPTER VI. 

1844. 

RESIDENCE IN MACAO. — LETTERS. — CHINESE PRINTING WITH METAL TYPE.' 
ARRIVAL OF NEW MISSIONARIES. THEIR FIELDS OF LABOR. 



His Mother. Sabbath-breaking, . . 2G7 
« His Teacher. Idolatry, . 266 
His Father. Chinese Letter, with Transla- 
tion and Notes, 270 

John Lloyd. Christian Friendship, . . 274 
His Mother. Passing Thoughts, . . .275 



His Father. To visit China. 

Question by his Teacher, . 
Rev. Levi Janvier. China Missions, . 
Rocollections of a Missionary, 
Rev. J. M. Lowrie. English Preaching, 
Rev. J. Montgomery. Trials, 



CHAPTER VII. 

1845. 

DIFFERENT MISSIONS ESTABLISHED. — LEAVES MACAO. — VOYAGE UP THE COAST. — 
NINGPO. — CHINESE WRITTEN AND SPOKEN LANGUAGE. 



LETTERS AND JOURNALS. 



His Father. Leaves Macao, 
Voyage up the Coast. Changes, 
Monsoon. Currents. Sailors, 
Shanghai. Woosung. Chusan, 
Books injured. Tinghae, 
Ningpo. City. Country, 
Chinese Dinner. Idol Worship, 
■ Opium. Festival of all the Gods, 
Suicide. Proverbs. Idols, . 
Monks. God of Thunder, . 
Mrs. Hepburn. Love of Christ, 



His Father. Written and Spoken Language 

of China, 315 

His Mother. Psalm xxx. 5, . . . . 323 



His Father. Various Thoughts, . 
Leaves from the Note-Book, 
Tower of Ningpo. Rice, 

Visit to Teentung, 

Visit to Pooto, 

Wedding. Females. Teacher, . 
Society of Inquiry, Princeton Theol. Sem., 
His Father. Chinese Ignorance, . 
" Chinese Translations, 



CHAPTER VIII. 

1846. 



MISSIONARY LABORS AT NINGPO. — HEATHEN CUSTOMS. — WORSHIP.— SUPERSTITIOUS 
FEARS. — PREACHING IN CHINESE. 

LETTERS AND JOURNALS. 

352 James Lennox, Esq. Music. Cuts. Return 

354 of Missionaries, 370 

356 His Father. Preaching. Chinese Books. 

357 Dictionary, 374 

Rev. John Lloyd. Religion, . . . 370 

359 His Brother. Preaching to the Chinese, . 379 

Journal. Fear of Poisoning, . . . 381 

365 Fear of Evil Spirits, 383 

Earthquake. Suspicions, .... 384 
Chinese Preaching. Cruelty, . . .387 

Chinese Audience, 390 



His Mother. Deaths. New Year, 

" Plan of House, 

Rev. Levi Janvier. Writing Letters, 
His Father. The Millennium, 
Rev. D. Wells. Prayer, 
Rev. John Lloyd. Chinese Tones, 
His Father. The Heat. Teachers, 
His Brother. Superstitions, . 
His Mother. Changes, . 
His Father. Shin. Shang te, 
His Mother. Reminiscences, 
His Father. Chinese Dictionary, . 



CHAPTER IX. 

1847. 

MISSIONARY LABORS AT NINGPO. — VOYAGE TO SHANGHAI. — MANCHU LANGUAGE. — 
CHINESE TRANSLATION OF THE BIBLE. — IMPORTANCE OF SELECTING PROPER 
TERMS. 

LETTERS AND JOURNALS. 



His Brother. Chinese Language, . . 392 
His Father. Type. Dictionary, . . .393 

Rev. Levi Janvier. Trials. Preaching, . 394 

His Mother. Labors. Loneliness, . . 396 
His Father. Books. Millennium. Shorter 

Catechism, 397 

On the Minutes of the General Assembly of 



1846, 

His Father. Translation of the Bible. Na- 
tive Convert, 

His Mother. Heathen Procession, 

Journal. Preaching. Incidents, . 

The Sabbath. Changing Audience, 



Chinese Language. Dogs, . . . .415 
Various Questions. Inquirers, . . . 416 

Worship of Ancestors, 418 

Voyage to Shanghai, 419 

Chinhai. Commerce. Chapoo, . . .420' 
Canal. The Sabbath. Shanghai, . . 421 
His Father. Chapoo. Dictionary, . . 422 

His .Mother. Health, 424 

His Brother. On the proper Translation of 

the word God, 425 

Rev. Joseph Owen. Same Subject, . . 427 
His Father. Manchu Language, . . .427 
On the real Trials of the Foreign Missionary, 429 



CHAPTER X. 



LETTERS FROM MISSIONARIES AND OTHERS, ON THE DEATH AND CHARACTER OF 
THE REV. W. M. LOWRIE. 



Rev. A. W. Loomis, 440 

Right Rev. W. J. Boone, D.D., ... 442 

Rev. John Lloyd, 445 

Rev. Joseph Owen, 447 



Rev. John M. Lowrie, 450 

Rev. A. Alexander, D.D., . . . .452 
Cenotaph, ... ... 457 



MEMOIR. 



CHAPTER I. 

1819—1837. 

EARLY LIFE LETTERS WHILE IN COLLEGE. 

the third son of Walter and Amelia 
liowrie, was born in Butler, Penn., on the 18th of February, 
1819. Until his eighth year, his father was absent from home 
during the winter months. This left the principal part of his 
early training and education to his excellent mother, and well and 
faithfully did she perform this responsible and sacred trust. From 
his infancy he possessed a mild and cheerful temper. He was a 
general favorite with his playmates, and always ready to engage 
in the usual sports of the play-ground. It was often the subject 
of remark, that he was never known to get into a quarrel, or even 
an angry dispute with his associates. To his parents he was al- 
ways obedient and kind, open and ingenuous ; he was never 
known to use deception or falsehood. His brothers and sisters 
shared his warmest affection and love, and his time with them 
seemed to be made up of pure enjoyment. 

At an early period he was sent to school, where he learned the 
usual branches of a common English education. It was soon 
perceived by his teachers, that it required but little effort on his 
part to get the lessons assigned to him ; and the place he usually oc- 
cupied was at the head of the class. In his tenth year his pa- 
rents removed to Washington city, and for a part of the year he 
was taught by his father in the higher rules of arithmetic, in 
geography, and ancient and modern history. In his eleventh and 
twelfth years, he spent twc terms under an able teacher in a clas- 
sical grammar school. 

At this period the health of his beloved mother was gradually 
declining, and her physicians advised that she should spend the 
1 



3 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

summers in Pennsylvania, and the winters in Washington. In 
these circumstances it was deemed best that Walter, although not 
fourteen years of age, should be sent to Jefferson College. Two 
of his brothers had already graduated at that college, and his fa- 
ther was well acquainted with the president and the professors. 
A home was found for him in the family of the Rev. Professor 
Kennedy, who watched over him with a parent's care. The same 
month in which he reached the college, in November, 1832, he re- 
ceived the sad intelligence of his dear mother's death. Most 
deeply did he feel this severe bereavement, and bitterly did he 
mourn over the loss of one so very dear to him. The account of 
her calm and peaceful departure, full of faith and trust in her Sa- 
viour, which he soon afterwards received, whilst it made a deep 
impression on his mind, tended much to relieve the bitterness of 
his grief. After spending a year in the preparatory department, 
he entered the freshman class in October, 1833, and continued in 
the college, with some interruptions for relaxation, till he gradua- 
ted in September, 1837. 

In the summer of 1834, he was at home from the first of August 
till the last of October. His father was somewhat apprehensive in 
regard to his health, and believed that some relaxation from his stu- 
dies would be of service, even if it should require him to spend ano- 
ther year in the college. He retained his place in the class, how- 
ever, and kept up with the usual studies without difficulty. The 
family were then spending the summer in Butler. Here he first met 
with his second mother, and he seemed almost at once to transfer 
to her the affection he had entertained for his own mother. Nor 
was this a transient feeling. His affection and deep respect and 
esteem for her continued till his lamented death, as the letters 
and journals addressed to her will abundantly show. 

During this visit he accompanied his parents and one of his 
brothers, and a sister in declining health, to the falls of Niagara. 
He greatly enjoyed the company of his friends on this journey, 
and was filled with wonder and awe at the stupendous displays 
of God's power in this mighty cataract. He accompanied the 
family to Washington, and was present at the calm and peaceful 
death of his beloved sister, in the last of September, 1834. In 
November he returned to the college, his health much improved 
by his temporary absence. 

Soon after his return, that seminary and the neighborhood were 
blessed with a precious and powerful revival of religion. Many 



LETTERS WHILE IN COLLEGE. 3 

of the students in the college, and large numbers in the congregations 
of that region, were added to the church. Most of these students 
afterwards entered the ministry. The history of this revival and 
its subsequent results, if they were written, would show how im- 
portant a period of life is the college course of every student. 
Probably the attention* and the prayers of the church have been 
too little turned towards her young men in the different colleges. 
The remark will be generally found true, that " as is the piety of 
the student in college, so will it be in the theological seminary, and 
in the ministry." 

In this revival, after a time of deep conviction of sin, he ob- 
tained a hope of peace with God in the Saviour. He was then in his 
sixteenth year, and his letters from this period show the state of 
his mind, as he became more and more instructed in Christian 
experience and warfare. With a number of the students who 
were admitted to full communion in the church at the same time, 
he formed a most endeared and lasting friendship, and with many 
of these he kept up a correspondence till his death. 

Canonsburg, December 31st, 1834. 
My Dear Father — 

I would have written to you yesterday to tell you my state of 
mind, but I thought I had best wait a while, to see whether what 
I wanted to tell you was really true. I can now, however, as I 
humbly trust, say that I have experienced the love of Christ shed 
abroad in my soul, and the renewing and sanctifying influences of 
the Holy Spirit. I have not, it is true, those high exciting joys 
that many others speak of, nor have I had those deep and pungent 
convictions of sin that others have. But I can say, that though I 
as yet see but little of Christ, and of his exceeding love to me in 
my lost and ruined condition, yet what little I do see, fills me with 
love and peace, and an earnest desire to see more and more of 
Him, and to lay myself down and give up my soul at the foot of 
his cross. 

How this feeling originated I can scarcely tell. On Monday, I 
was deeply impressed with the necessity of being assured of sal- 
vation that day, but I had not found any reason to believe I had 
obtained it. After sermon there was an inquiry meeting, and Mr. 
Deruelle conversed very kindly with me; patiently set himself to 
remove any doubts and difficulties, and told me that all I had to 
do was to give up all hopes in anything that I could do, in the way 
of prayers or resolutions, and just trust in Christ. He spoke so 
confidently and cheerfully, that I thought perhaps I might be 
saved. After he was gone, a young acquaintance, also under se- 
rious impressions, and much distressed, came and entered into con- 



4 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

versation with me. During the course of this conversation, which 
was entirely about Christ and his promises to all who come to 
him, I felt my heart warming, and full of love and zeal for Christ. 
Shortly after a hymn was given out, and I attenpted to sing it, 
but my heart seemed to rush up to my mouth, and I could scarce 
refrain from laughing out, so much joy did I feel. This feeling 
continued till the next morning, and I felt inexpressibly happy ; but 
about eight or nine, A. M., I felt that I was again becoming insensi- 
ble, and I was greatly perplexed, and knew not what to do. This 
feeling increased until about two P. M. There was to be a meeting 
of those who had a hope of salvation that evening, and I felt great 
doubt as to the propriety of attending. I mentioned this to my 
room-mate, who is, I believe, the most pious student about the 
college, and he made a few remarks and prayed with me. This 
relieved me somewhat, and I attended the meeting. 

While there the hymn " Alas ! and did my Saviour bleed," was 
sung, and I felt every doubt removed and very joyful. However, 
trusting to myself, after a few hours I felt unhappy. I had still 
the hope, but had no joy at all, and seemed to myself to be travel- 
ling in a path I knew was right, with just sufficient light to show 
that it was not the wrong path. I could not see anything at all 
before me. In this condition I remained. This morning I had a 
little more light, and now I can see a little. I hope and trust that 
the light will increase " more and more unto the perfect day." I 
feel peaceful, and willing to commit myself to my Saviour, to do 
with me just as he pleases. I desire to have no will of my own, 
but to depend entirely upon him, for everything. Still, however, I 
have great need of humility. Pride is my besetting sin, and I 
fear that my course will be marked with many rebellions, and much 
distress on account of this sin. It has grown with my growth and 
strengthened with my strength, and will no doubt be employed 
by Satan to bring about my ruin. May God keep and preserve 
me from it ! I have also much need of faith. In this I am wo- 
fully defective, and when the hour of trial comes, I fear much. 
It is my earnest prayer that I may have more faith and more hu- 
mility. 

I may be deceived in the whole matter, and if I should, I know 
not what shall become of me ; but it is my earnest prayer, that if 
so, I may be undeceived, and led in the way everlasting. I now, 
my dear father, need your prayers and counsels more than ever ; 
for I feel greatly my need of some experienced Christian, who 
knows me as well as you do, to direct me. 

There have been a considerable number here, who hope they 
have experienced a change of heart : how many I cannot say. 
As yet, we cannot speak certainly as to any of them ; and there 
is great need of prudence in speaking and writing about such 
things, so as to avoid bringing disgrace upon the holy religion of 
Jesus. That the Spirit of God is here, every one will admit ; but 
the result is known only to the searcher of the hearts, and trier of 



LETTERS WHILE IN* COLLEGE. O 

the reins of the children of men. We would hope and pray that 
these "mercy drops" may be succeeded by a great shower, and 
that the influence of this may extend to all parts, not only of the 
Synod of Pittsburg, but of our country ; and that its influence 
may be felt to the remotest corners of the earth. There is noth- 
ing too hard for the Lord, and we may reasonably expect that, by 
prayer and faith, every student of this college may become a ser- 
vant of Christ. We are told to ask and it shall be given, seek 
and we shall find, and that if we " open our mouths wide," the 
Lord will " fill them." O father, pray for this college. 

It is, of course, too soon for me to think as yet of my future 
profession ; but this will, if it be true, make a great difference 
in my choice. There is a great deal in deciding quickly and 
soon, and then making everything tend to that one object. 
I remain your affectionate son in the Lord, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Canonsburg, January 6th, 1835. 
My Dear Father — 

I received your kind letter of Dec. 31st, yesterday, and can truly 
say that I never perused a letter with greater pleasure than that 
one, both on account of its intrinsic excellence, and also because it 
afforded me the strongest proof that you cared as much and 
more for my soul than for my body. You will have heard be- 
fore now that I have been enabled to give myself to the blessed 
Jesus. Nor have I repented of the choice. I can truly say that 
during the past week, I have felt a greater amount of real, calm 
peace and joy, than I ever felt in all my life. It is true, I am not 
without doubts and fears, and I have several times been inclined 
to doubt, whether I ever did experience a saving change of heart. 
But, having carefully, and I trust prayerfully, applied every test in 
my power to examine the sincerity of my heart, I am enabled to 
say, though still with "fear and trembling," that "Jesus is mine 
and I am his." My particular views of Christ, though very in- 
complete, are that He is one " altogether lovely ;" a " Lamb with- 
out spot or blemish ;" that he is holy, just, and good, beyond all 
ideas which mortals can form of those attributes. My views of 
God, the Father, are, that he is one who dwells in "light inac- 
cessible, and full of glory ;" who while he looks with hatred upon 
sin, is nevertheless, by the intercession of the blessed Saviour and 
his death on the cross, perfectly willing to love and protect all who 
come to him by his son. Of God, the Holy Ghost, I have so in- 
definite an idea that I cannot express it ; it is like " the wind that 
bloweth, and we hear the sound thereof, and cannot tell whence 
it cometh or whither it goeth." 

As you may, perhaps, wish to hear some accounts of the rise 
and progress of this revival, I give this short account of it. On 
last Thursday, two weeks ago, which was a fast day for the Synod 



6 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

of Pittsburg, there was preaching, and one or two were awakened. 
There was preaching also on Saturday, but still it was not known 
to many that anything was going on. Sabbath was sacrament 
day. On Sabbath night, Mr. Deruelle delivered a most eloquent 
and powerful sermon. I paid very little attention to it at the time, 
and do not now remember the text ; but he described in a very 
forcible manner, the joys of heaven and the terrors of hell. This 
awakened some ; and I believe that it was a remark made to me 
the next day, that it was a sermon calculated to excite thought at 
least, that made me think about it. On Monday there was preach- 
ing, and those who were anxious were requested to stay for con- 
versation. I was anxious to do so, but was ashamed and did not ; 
there were, however, some who did. Encouraged by this and b) r 
the number who attended, Dr. Brown determined to have a pro- 
tracted meeting. The number of anxious inquirers increased at 
every meeting, but for two or three or more days, there were but 
one or two hopeful conversions. This was mentioned, and Chris- 
tians were invited to pray for converting grace. In about four 
days there were one or two of the students who were awakened, 
and had yielded themselves to Christ. Of the citizens there are 
yet, I believe, but a small proportion, about one third, who have 
obtained a hope. Some have gone back to the world, others are 
wavering, and until lately the work seemed to decline. Now it is 
a little on the increase, but not as much as could be wished. 
There are, I suppose, at least thirty of the students who have ob- 
tained a hope in Christ, probably twelve or fifteen who have gone 
back, and about ten who are yet lingering. Of the citizens, prob- 
ably twenty have obtained a hope, and there are as many as thirty 
or forty who are yet in suspense. This night will probably be the 
last of these meetings. Mr. Deruelle, who has labored faithfully, 
and under God with much success here, is going away. There 
have been no other methods of proceeding adopted than preaching 
and conversation ; but these have been blessed by the Holy Spirit. 

None can make objections of any force, because there were 
no improper means used, and the old version of the Psalms was 
used at the meetings. Every one confesses that the work is of 
God and not of man ; and if not wofully deceived, many souls 
will to all eternity bless God for this revival. I shall finish this 
letter after the meeting this evening. 

January 7th. I was prevented from finishing this last night, by 
the lateness of the hour when meeting was over. It is not the 
intention now of Dr. Brown to discontinue these meetings ; there 
will be preaching to-night as usual, and for some time yet. 
I am your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



LETTERS WHILE IN COLLEGE. 



Canonsburg, March 9th. 1835. 
My Dear Father — 

As Congress has now adjourned, I suppose you will have more 
time for writing than you have heretofore had. Since I wrote 
last, I have enjoyed my usual health. Yesterday the Lord's Sup- 
per was celebrated here. There were fifty-eight who joined the 
church here; thirty-seven students and twenty-one citizens. It. 
was a pleasant day to me, though I had not as pleasant a time 
as I sometimes have, owing I suppose to my ignorance of the 
nature of the ordinance, or rather to my too selfish feelings. — 
When I look back ten weeks, and contrast my present condition 
with what it was then, I feel a strange sensation of wonder. To 
think that a change so great, (for I feel it to be a great change, 
and I hope it is genuine,) should be effected in so comparatively 
short a time, is strange. One of those who joined at the same 

time, a daughter of the Rev. Mr. , was only ten years old. 

Her religious experience, however, was very satisfactory to the 
Session. Whether there will be any more outpouring of the Holy 
Spirit here, I cannot tell. I hope and endeavor to pray that there 
may be, but it seems as if we were all like rocks : at least, I feel 
myself to be so. A hard heart, I think, is one of the most un- 
pleasant things that a Christian has to deal with on earth. The 
150th hymn in the Assembly's Collection, exactly describes the 
feelings which I frequently have on this subject. 
I remain your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Canonsburg, August 5th, 1835. 
My Dear Mother — 

You may remember the first letter you wrote to me after the 
29th December ; I have not got it by me, but I can remember the 
substance of it. You warned me in it to beware of falling away 
from my " first love." At that time I wondered why you should 
send me such a warning. I thought there was no danger, and 
that it would be impossible for me ever to leave that Saviour, who 
had so kindly opened my eyes. Yet even in this short time, has 
that case been my own. I have fallen away, and acted very much 
indeed as if I had never experienced a hope of Christ's love to me. 
I left my first love, and for about two months preceding and after 
my visit home, I had no enjoyment in religion. I had not fallen 
so far as to silence the voice of conscience, or as not to know that 
I had in some measure fallen. Such was my case when at home. 
True, there were times, even then, when I had as much freedom 
in prayer as ever ; and the day of the sacrament I had as much 
pleasure in religion as I have had this session. 

I have now the hope that I am restored. I now feel, in some 
respects, as I did when first the light of truth shone in upon my 



8 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

soul, and I have a more heart-affecting view of myself. Rejoice 
with me, my mother, that God has not cast me off from him for- 
ever, as I justly deserved, and as would have been perfectly con- 
sistent with his glory, mercy, and justice. How I was restored I 
can hardly tell. For two weeks past, I have felt very differently 
from what I did all session, and yesterday and to-day I feel some, 
though, alas ! very little, of the joy of him whose sin is pardoned 
by his God. O for a tongue to speak my Redeemer's praise, and 
to proclaim to the world what he has done for my soul ! Surely, 
O surely, such love was never manifested as the love of Christ ! 
Why is it that we cannot love him more, and love him always ? 
And yet I am very much afraid I shall not long continue in this 
state. I am afraid I shall fall, and yet bring open disgrace upon 
my profession. Pray for me, my dear parents, and give your 
counsels. 

Yours affectionately, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Jefferson College, August 10th, 1835. 
My Dear Father — 

I wrote to mother and brother Matthew, a short time ago, 
yet as I have something in regard to which I would wish to ask 
your advice, and as, probably, you are now as much at leisure as 
you will be before next summer, I have concluded to write to you. 
I do not know whether I have ever before mentioned this subject 
to you, but it is one which has often employed my thoughts, and 
of late particularly — it is this : Whether it is my duty to be a 
minister of the gospel ? My principal reason for now writing to 
you is, to ask your advice in regard to this one point, viz., whether 
1 should enter on the examination of this subject, with the view 
of coming to a definite conclusion this session, or, at farthest, be- 
fore the close of the year ; or whether I should put off the imme- 
diate examination of the point till a future period. 

Each of these may have its advantages. The principal reasons 
why I should now come to a determination are these : 1st. What- 
ever profession I may choose, if I now decide concerning it, I may 
lay my mind more ardently to being prepared for it and for use- 
fulness : I may the more readily make all my other pursuits sub- 
servient to this. This I consider a principal reason. 2nd. A 
reason, flowing from the first, why I now should determine, is, 
that, if I should decide to be a minister, it may conduce to personal 
piety and a closer walk with God. These are two of the principal 
reasons why I should now determine. 

On the other hand, it may be objected — 1st. My youth : my 
judgment is not capable of deciding so important a question. 2nd. 
My inexperience of my own self and of others, and of the duties 
required of me in that high station to which I aspire. 3rd. The 
fickleness of my temper ; and 4th. Circumstances may occur 



LETTERS WHILE IN COLLEGE. 9 

which will reader it obligatory on me to change my views. I do 
not consider the last much of an objection, and I can, I think, get 
over the others ; but I should like your advice on this all-impor- 
tant subject. I may here mention a couple of plans which have 
principally occupied my thoughts on this subject. The first was 
— to study for the ministry, and, after being licensed, to go and 
spend my life in the Western States ; neither in the character of a 
settled pastor, nor yet in that of an itinerant preacher, but some- 
where between them. The other, and one which has almost en- 
tirely taken up my mind, is this : after I graduate, to go and 
study medicine ; then go to the Theological Seminary and prepare 
myself for the ministry ; and then, if in the Providence of God it 
may appear my duty, " Go and preach the Gospel to the heathen." 
Both of these may be mere romantic creations of the fancy, but, at 
present, my inclination is rather in favor of the latter. I may, in 
a future letter, state more as to my views on this subject, but, at 
present, I would like your advice as to the first point mentioned. 

I regard myself just in this light: I profess to be, and hope I 
am, a servant of Christ. The command is, " Go work in my 
vineyard." After having decided, how I shall work ? — whether 
as a minister or otherwise — the next question will be, where ? 

I do not consider, that in answering this question, I have a right 
to consult my own convenience. May you, my dear father, be 
abundantly blessed with the influence of the Holy Spirit, and find 
all your children walking in your footsteps, and may we all at 
last meet around the throne of God, on his right hand. 
Affectionately yours, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Jefferson College, August 31st, 1S35. 
Dear Father — 

I have delayed answering your last somewhat longer than 
usual, but I suppose you know the reason. I have been engaged 
in the examination of the subject of the gospel ministry, and have 
at length been enabled to decide, at least from present views and 
feelings, and with prayer, that it is my duty to devote myself to 
the service of God in that manner. I cannot say that I have had 
many or great difficulties, nor indeed have I that assurance I could 
wish to have ; but I hope, as my experience increases, that my 
confidence as to my duty will increase in proportion. I may be 
deceived, but, as far as I know myself, I am not actuated by un- 
worthy motives. I wish I could as certainly say, that I am influ- 
enced by a desire for the glory of God ; for it is on that point that 
T have, and do yet experience, the greatest difficulty. In other 
respects, I hope I can with some confidence say, that, as far as I 
know myself, I am not influenced by wrong motives. May God 
grant me to know and do my duty. 

Your affectionate son, W. M. Lowrie. 



10 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

Jefferson College, September -8th, 1835. 
My Dear Father, — 

I am very sorry you cannot make it convenient to remain in 
Butler a few weeks longer, as I should very much wish your 
company. It may be all fancy, but something seems to be con- 
stantly telling me, when I think of you all, " that I must endeavor 
to spend as much time with you as I can now, for after I am set- 
tled in life, I shall have very few opportunities of being with you/' 
And this idea has taken almost complete possession of my mind. 
I do not, when I look forward, anticipate much temporal pleasure, 
or ease ; and perhaps it is as well that I should learn to deny 
myself now as at any time ; but still I find an unwillingness to 
separate from my thoughts the idea of totally denying myself 
your company. However, I hope, that if it ever should be incum- 
bent on me, I shall never hesitate to leave even father and mother, 
and all to whom I am bound by the ties of nature. I hope you 
are all in good health of body — would that I had the same hope in 
regard to matters of more importance ! But when I think that some 
of our dear family are still in the "gall of bitterness and the strong 
chains of iniquity," I cannot hope so. I can do nothing but pray, 
and in my condition, I am more fit to have prayers offered for 
myself, than to offer them for others. Next Sabbath is the day 
of the communion : how I should like, were it possible, to sit 
down and commemorate our Saviour's love with my dear parents, 
— but I suppose it may not be. 

I remain your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Jefferson College, September 14th. 
My Dear Father — 

Yesterday was our communion here ; and though it was so 
near to the end of the session, that we could not have much time 
for preparation, and no fast day was appointed, yet it was about 
as profitable a day as I ever spent. True, at the table, and whilst 
partaking of the elements, I was not happy ; nay, before I rose 
from the table, I was almost as miserable as I ever was. Yet it 
was profitable. A temptation came across my mind to this effect : 
" I am not now enjoying communion with Jesus Christ ; and 
therefore I am not a Christian. I may as well now give up all 
pretensions to religion, and quit acting the hypocrite any longer." 
And although not willingly, I felt as if I ought to do so ; but the 
thought rushed into my mind, " If I am so miserable under the 
hidings of God's face only, how shall I bear his eternal wrath ?" 
It was the first time I had ever been influenced more by fear than 
by other motives. I was miserable, however. But see the good- 
ness of God and of Jesus Christ. After church, I was think- 
ing of my conduct during the session, and meditating on the 



LETTERS WHILE AT COLLEGE. 11 

two verses, " Seek ye first the kingdom of God ;" and all my 
anxious cares vanished. I had been impressed deeply with a 
sense of my sinfulness, and was wishing to make some resolu- 
tions hereafter to live more to the glory of God, but felt almost 
afraid to do it. I knew I should fall away ; and I felt that it 
would but aggravate my guilt, were I to sin against such renewed 
obligation. But the sentence, " Sufficient unto the day is the evil 
thereof," calmed my heart. I felt that it was my duty to follow 
present duty, and leave the future to God, without any anxious 
cares ; and I was enabled to do so, and to roll all my cares upon 
the Lord. Oh, the peace I at that moment possessed ! I could 
scarce refrain from laughing, I was so joyful. 

I determined then to live every day as if it were to be the last 
I should have to live, and to do my duty accordingly ; — in reality, 
" to live by the day." At secret prayer I was more full of God's 
presence, and comprehended more of that view of Christ's charac- 
ter, which is so great, grand, and incomprehensible, that I could 
scarcely proceed for joy ; and from my own experience during the 
day, I could tell something of the difference between God's pres- 
ence and his absence. To-day, I cannot say T feel, or have felt, 
as I could wish — not so much life and animation ; but I have 
been enabled to mourn for it. During the sermon (Mark xvi. 15), 
I was enabled to see more of the greatness of the Christian religion 
than I ever did before, and to feel, too, that man could not be the 
author of such grand ideas as I saw there held out. 

This evening I was walking out into the country for exercise, 
and on my return I passed the cottage of a negro woman, com- 
monly called " Old Katy." She was out in the road, when I passed 
her. I shook hands with her, and spoke a few words to her. Be- 
fore we had spoken three sentences, she was talking about religion. 
She is a most eminent Christian, and we stood about ten or fifteen 
minutes there talking. She soon got to speaking about the mis- 
sionary cause. Her heart was in the matter, and she said, " I am 
very poor, but as long as I live I will be something to it. I have 
often given a little to it, and I never laid out any money better. 
I could not do it. I never lost a cent by it." 

I wish I could give you some idea of the emphasis she used, but 
pen and ink cannot express her manner and the feeling she mani- 
fested. She very cordially asked me to call in and see her; "for 
it is food to me when any of God's children come to see me ; it is 
food" She went on thus for some time, talking about various 
matters, but all of them religious. Oh ! how little I felt when I 
heard her talk thus, and compared my attainments in the Chris- 
tian course with hers. 

18th. I received your kind letter yesterday, for which I am 
very much obliged to you. I would go to Pittsburg to see you, 
but they are not done examining our class, and I do not wish to be 
absent from here on Sunday. The examination commenced yes- 
terday, and they got over one half of the class, myself among 



12 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

them. The Greek still remains to try our metal, but I cannot say 
I am afraid of that ; and if such things as these were to be my 
only difficulties, I should not think life very burdensome. 
I remain your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Jefferson College, November 22d, 1835. 
M\ Dear Mother — 

You may recollect in reading the life of Payson, a sentence like 
this: "Whenever I write to you, more than forty ideas jump at 
once, all equally eager to get out, and jostle and incommode each 
other at such a rate, that not the most proper, but the strongest, 
escapes first." I find something like this at present in my head, 
for I hardly know where to begin. However, on last Saturday 
night there were four of us students, who met in our room, to have 
a little prayer-meeting : we had all, I think, a great deal of free- 
dom in prayer for a revival, and after our meeting was over, we 
sung two or three hymns together. It was as pleasant a meeting 
as I have attended in a long time. One of the hymns was that 
most expressive one, " Alas ! and did my Saviour bleed," and I am 
sure there was a good deal of feeling manifested among us. 

Yesterday Mr. E., an agent of the American Board of Missions, 
preached a sermon in the forenoon with which I was highly 
pleased, on the text "It is more blessed to give than to receive." 
At night he preached again ; subject, the debt we owe the heathen. 
He proved in it, that we owe a debt to the heathen that we are able 
to pay ; that the time had come ; and concluded with a number of 
most thrilling, interesting facts. The sermon was an hour and a 
half long ; the longest I have ever heard, but it seemed the short- 
est. He spoke of the providences of God with regard to Missions, 
and said, that had Lyman and Munson lived to fill up their three- 
score years and ten, and toiled and labored, wrote and translated, 
and been as successful as any of our present missionaries, they 
would not, in all human probability, have been as useful by one 
half, as they have been just by their death. They have excited 
more interest, more prayers, more contributions, and brought for- 
ward more young men to fill their places, than they could have 
done, had their life been prolonged. The Board have already sev- 
eral missionaries who are going to take their places, and the inter- 
est in that mission is ten times as great as it ever was. Is not 
that gratifying? About the close he related an anecdote, which I 
hardly dare attempt to repeat, but I will try. " Some years ago 
I was out on a tour for collecting money for the Society, and I 
stopped over Sunday at a town, and preached there. I gave no- 
tice that on the morrow, I would go around and receive their con- 
tributions. Accordingly, in company with the minister, I did so. 
We came to a house, or cabin rather, and he said, ' We must go in 
here ; we shall receive no donation, but there is a ' Mother in Israel 5 



LETTERS WHILE AT COLLEGE. 13 

here.' We went in and found an old woman over seventy, bent 
nearly double by age, and troubled with all its infirmities, and het 
daughter, who was helpless. The old woman supported hei 
daughter and herself by spinning flax. As soon as she saw us 
she said, 'I am glad you have come. I was afraid you would not, 
and last night I lay awake and prayed that God would send you, 
and now you are here. I got up early this morning and went to 
a neighbor who has a gentle horse, which he lends me whenever 
I want it ; and then 1 went to another man who owed me six 
shillings for spinning flax, which he paid me : now I want to give 
it to the Missionary Society, here it is,' handing it to me. I told 
her we did not expect any money from her ; we had not come to 
her house for that purpose. She insisted. I took the subscription 
paper, wrote her name, and opposite to it six shillings, and show- 
ing it to her said, See, here is your name, we will pay this money, 
and no one shall ever know you did not give it yourselL and you 
can keep your money. I thought she needed it too much to give 
it. She looked at me, the big tears rolling down her cheeks, and 
said, ' What have I done, that you won't let me give this money ; 
I have prayed for forty years for the heathen, and yesterday you 
told us the time had come, when we might give as well as pray, 
and I was glad of it ; now you won't let me give this money — it is 
very hard.' Great grief was visible in her countenance" — and 
Mr. E., heartily ashamed of himself, took the money. Was not 
that most beautiful 1 I was near bursting into tears. Shortly after 
I spoke to one who had been at our prayer-meeting, and he was in 
extacies. " Oh Lowrie, is not that delightful ? What a blessed 
Sabbath ! Our little prayer-meeting !" If I ever desired to be a 
minister and a missionary, I did last night. Such a glorious ob- 
ject ! so worthy all the talents, feelings, and affections of every 
reasonable creature, that it seems impossible, almost, not to desire 
it. However, though it may be the duty of others to decide this 
matter while at college, I hardly think it can be mine, at least for 
a year to come. 

We have between seventy and eighty new students, the largest 
number received in one session since 1831, when the new college 
was built, and perhaps, excepting that time, the largest number 
ever received. Altogether we have near two hundred and fifty stu- 
dents. Were the Spirit of God poured out here, what would be 
the consequences ! We have a great deal of studying to do. I 
am trying to " Parlez vous" some, and hope to be able to speak 
with some fluency before the winter is over. * * 

Yours affectionately, W. M. Lowrie. 



Canonsburg, December 26th, 1835. 
My Dear Mother — 

In looking over the various relations which others sustain to 
me, or which I sustain to them, I see very little which does not 



14 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

call for sincere, hearty gratitude. To have so many friends, my- 
self to enjoy so many privileges and mercies, of which others 
stand in so much need, while I am but too insensible to their 
value, and to have«so many opportunities of improving myself and 
of preparing for future usefulness, — these things, combined with 
others, which are so many I cannot number them, give me abun- 
dant cause for gratitude and praise. 

Dec. 29. This is my birth-day. It is just one year since first 
I experienced the hope of salvation, and now I see before me the 
whole scene, and the fulness of my heart rises within me. I have 
just been thinking of my conduct the past *year. Whilst I see 
many things to be thankful for, and to encourage me, I also see 
much to grieve and humble me. The hasty flight of time only 
brings us nearer an eternal home, where " sorrow and sighing 
flee away." I am more and more anxious to pay you a visit in 
the sprinff, and expect to enjoy a great deal of pleasure from it. 
If we amicipate so much pleasure from joys that are but finite, 
what will the joys of heaven be? An infinity of everything that 
is good ! 

Jan. 2d, 1836. Taking a walk this afternoon, I came near a 
grave-yard, and went into it. Some of the tenants were dead 
more than eighty years, some under one year. Some of the tomb- 
stones bore marks of many years' exposure ; others were as fresh 
as if yesterday they had been placed there. All was calm and 
silent. The world flees from such scenes. Many of the tomb- 
stones spoke of the joys of heaven, of the resurrection, and of Christ, 
and their rude poetry only made them the more striking. I love 
a grave-yard. I love to walk among these signs of death, and 
muse on death itself. I may be deceived, but to me death has 
few terrors, and though nature may shrink from the last fatal 
struggle, yet I think I am not afraid to die. ' ; I know that my 
Redeemer liveth . . . and though worms destroy this body, yet in 
my flesh shall I see God." 

" The knell, the shroud, the mattock, and the grave, 
The deep damp vault, the darkness, and the worm — 
These are the terrors of the living, not the dead." 

Jan. 4. I have just seen a letter from my dear brother John. 
His health has failed, and he is obliged to leave India. How sad 
that he has to leave his station, and all his prospects of usefulness 
in that region. Although I long to see him, I could wish he may 
be able to remain. But God has good reasons for what appears 
to us to be so dark. May he who holds the winds in his power, 
and the waves in the hollow of his hand, preserve and bring him 
safe to his native land. Will do I recollect when I bade him 
farewell. Never till the last moment, and when I felt that he 
must go — never till then did I know how much I loved him. 
Then I knew what the bitterness of parting was. Yet what are 
friends and kindred, father and mother, brothers and sisters, com 



LETTERS WHILE AT COLLEGE. 15 

pared with Jesus Christ ? He that loveth them more than him, is 
not worthy of him. 

Jan. 5. Did you ever study geometry ? I am working at it 
now, and I do think it is about as dry a thing as I ever studied. 
It is not hard, on the contrary, it is very easy — but it is so regular. 
Now I like order, but I like variety too, and we have but little of 
that in Legendre. A square is a square, be it big or little, and it 
has just four angles, and these four angles are all equal — more- 
over, they are all right angles. I like algebra : there is some va- 
riety there — something to turn and rest the attention upon at 
every step. Most of our class are rejoicing that we are through 
algebra ; but I would rather study it than geometry, Latin, or 
Greek. 

I have been lately reading the life of James B. Taylor. I have 
not met with anything like it. He makes me feel quite ashamed 
of myself. Pray for me, that I may be fitted for the holy ministry. 
I remain yours affectionately, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Jefferson College, January 28th, 1837. 
My Dear Father — 

. . .We are still driving away at the conic sections, which are very 
solid, and to me very interesting. I do not think them hard, by 
any means, although some do complain piteously about long les- 
sons. I do not like Greek so well as the mathematics, and I find 
it much harder. Nothing but the conviction that it is necessary 
to have a thorough knowledge of it, to fit me for my future call- 
ing, could induce me to study it. I 'do not mean to say, however, 
that I find it difficult. 

I have lately been reading Swan's Letters on Missions. The 
question of personal devotion to the missionary work is rising 
before me, and I can scarce help thinking I am called upon to 
decide this question soon. I have tried to put it off, under various 
excuses — not, I hope, with any wish to avoid the question, but 
principally owing to my inexperience ; but I don't know how I 
can much longer postpone it. I intend reading a great deal on 
the subject, and hereafter making it the subject of special prayer. 
I should like to have your views, as soon as you have time. 
Give my best love to all. 

W. M. Loavrie. 



Jefferson College, February 7th, 1837. 
My Dear Father — 

We had the communion here about four weeks ago, and since 
that time three of our students have joined the church. One of 
my Bible-class has experienced a hope, and several others are 
somewhat affected. There has been an extensive revival at Cross 



16 MEMOIR OF WALTER IU. LOWRIE. 

Roads, and Florence Academy. One most profane young man was 
one of the first and clearest cases of conversion. 

The question of personal devotion to the missionary cause, has, 
as you are aware, long been before my mind. When I first ex- 
perienced a hope of salvation, this subject presented itself to my 
mind. This feeling has continued in almost every time and place. 
This session I felt it to be important to know what I should do, 
and what time I could spare was devoted to the examination of 
the question. I never found any particular difficulties, except as 
to my piety. At our last communion I was enabled to decide to 
be, by the grace of God, a missionary. It was like throwing a 
heavy burden off from my mind, and I have not since experienced 
one moment of regret at the decision. Sometimes, indeed, it 
seems hard — O, very hard — to think of parting with near and 
dear friends ; but what are all these, or life itself, to the advance- 
ment of the Saviour's cause, to which, two years ago, I conse- 
crated myself? 

Your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Jefferson College, March 10th, 1837. 
My Dear Father — 

Brother John has been here for several days, and intends leaving 
in the morning. His health has improved very little since leaving 
New York. He has been engaged preaching so much, that it has 
materially prevented his recruiting ; he is, however, no worse. 

In my last letter I mentioned that as far as I could see, if noth- 
ing providential occurred, I had made up my mind on the question 
" Should I become a missionary?" It never seemed to present any 
great difficulty to my mind, and I don't know that I could give 
any particular account of the reasons, which led me to believe that 
it was duty on my part to spend my life among the heathen. The 
question always seemed, though a very important one, to be — Can 
1 do more abroad than at home? There were no providential 
hinderances to prevent me from going. Indeed Providence seemed 
rather to point to the heathen as the proper place. My own incli- 
nations and feelings pointed the same way. If I have piety to fit 
me for being a minister at home, I might hope to have it for being 
a missionary abroad. Of my talents and qualifications for the 
work, others must judge. Almost the only difficulty was in regard 
to my health. My constitution being weak, it seemed almost un- 
able to bear much fatigue ; for even the labor of study is preying 
on it in some degree. But though the case seemed so clear, do 
not think, dear father, that it was on account of my vanity that 
it appeared so. For almost always when the duty of being a mis- 
sionary appeared strongest, I felt my own strength or my own fit- 
ness to be least. And even now, when the troubles and depriva- 
tions and duties of missionary life come up to view, the question 



LETTERS WHILE IN COLLEGE. IT 

involuntarily occurs, -'Who is sufficient for these things?" Yet 
if I know my own heart, I am willing to live or die for the hea- 
then. It is now nearly two months since I came to the determi- 
nation expressed above, and never yet has a single emotion of re- 
gret crossed my mind on account of it. Nay, a load has been 
thrown off, and I feel a deeper interest in everything that concerns 
the extension of the Redeemer's kingdom. Pray for me, dear fa- 
ther ; unless I have more piety than I now have, I am not fit for 
the missionary work, nor for the ministry at home. 
Your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Pittsburg, September 13th, 1837. 
My Dear Father — 

We finished our examination eight days ago, but I have been 
so busy, I have not had time to write to you. At the close of our 
examination, I expected to be told that I might have my Diploma, 
but further or higher I had not directed my thoughts. Judge of 
my surprise then, when on the next morning, Dr. Brown gave me 
the enclosed as my standing.* I had never thought of standing 
more than respectably, but this grade is equivalent to what was 
once called the first honor. There were two others in the class 
who were marked equally high. I have been appointed Valedicto- 
rian, which is considered here the most important post at the Com- 
mencement. I hope, however, you will not consider me to be a 
very excellent scholar, on account of the high standing I have 
with the Faculty. In languages especially, I do not consider my- 
self to be much above mediocrity. 

As soon as Commencement is over, I shall set out for home. 
Though I should like very much to enter on the study of theology 
immediately, yet I do feel almost afraid to commence without a 
longer recess than common. During my collegiate course, I have 
not, on an average, studied three hours a day ; but at the Semi- 
nary, I would wish — indeed, it seems essential — that at least four 
hours daily be spent in study. Still, with an opportunity of daily 
systematic exercise, I should not feel much hesitation about the 
Seminary studies. Others with far worse health than mine, have 
gone through as severe a course ; and as I may probably never 
have very strong health, it may not be worth while to delay on 
that account, especially if my youth be not considered too strong 
an objection. 

I remain your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 

• Walter M. Lowrie, 

Grade. _ Grade. 

Languages, 1. Natural Science, 1. 

Moral Science, 1. Mathematics, 1. 

M. Brown. 



CHAPTER II. 

OcroBER 1837— January 1842. 

RETURNS HOME FROM COLLEGE — COURSE IN THE THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY AT 
PRINCETON — ACCEPTED AS A FOREIGN MISSIONARY — SAILS FOR CHINA. 

On leaving College, the subject of this memoir returned home, 
his father's family then residing in the city of New York. His 
expectation was to enter the Theological Seminary at Princeton 
soon after his return. The Seminary year, however, commenced 
in September, when the regular classes were formed ; and his 
father, still somewhat solicitous respecting his health, deemed it 
best that he should have a recess from study ; and he spent the 
winter at home. Having few acquaintances in the city, his win- 
ter's residence at home was a season of retirement and quiet, and 
his time was profitably employed in reviewing his previous studies, 
and in miscellaneous reading. He had also a good opportunity 
of improvement in vocal music, under the able instructions of Mr. 
Thomas Hastings. During the winter he took charge of a class 
of young men in the Sabbath school, who became greatly attached 
to him, and were much benefitted by the care he bestowed on 
their instruction. 

In May, 1838, he entered the Seminary, and afterwards joined 
the regular class formed in September following. In his whole 
course in the Seminary he pursued his studies very closely. He 
was never absent from a single recitation ; and with his studies, 
and other necessary duties, his time was fully employed. By per- 
severing industry, he was able to superintend a Sabbath school at 
Queenston, a few miles from the Seminary, and also to make a 
Catalogue of the books in the Library, and arrange them anew. 

Before leaving College, as is seen by his letters, he had fully de- 
cided to go as a missionary to the heathen, and during his last 
year in the Seminary, his mind was settled on Western Africa as 
his chosen field of labor. In December, 1840, he was received as 
a missionary of the Board of Foreign Missions of the Presbyterian 



OCTOBER 1S37 — JANUARY 1842. 19 

Church. No objections to his preference for Africa were made by 
his friends, and for several months the question of his field of 
labor was considered as fully settled. In the spring and summer of 
1841, however, the exigencies of the China mission induced the 
Executive Committee to review the question of his field of labor. 
The mission to China was then but commencing, and was en- 
compassed with many difficulties. That great empire was at that 
time closed against the Christian missionary ; and Singapore had 
been selected as the most suitable place where the language of 
China could be learned, translations made into it, schools estab- 
lished, and other missionary work carried on. The Rev. John A. 
Mitchell, and the Rev. Robert W. Orr and his wife, had arrived 
at Singapore in April, 1838. In the following October, Mr. Mit- 
chell was removed by death. The next year Mr. Orr's health 
failed ; a visit to the Nilgerry Hills, in India, did not restore it ; 
and in 1840, he set out on his return home. The same year, the 
Rev. Thomas L. McBryde and his wife reached Singapore ; and 
in 1841, he was joined by J. C. Hepburn, M. D., and his wife. In 
one year, Mr. McBryde's health had declined so much, that it 
was evident he also must soon withdraw from that sphere of 
labor, and thus leave Dr. Hepburn alone in the China mission. In 
these circumstances, and having at that time no other suitable 
man to send, the question in the view of the Executive Commit- 
tee was clear, that China, and not Western Africa, was the proper 
field of labor for the new missionary. It was believed, also, that 
from the tone of his piety, his cheerful temper, his thorough edu- 
cation, his natural talents and untiring industry, he was pecul- 
iarly fitted for the China mission. It was, however, with many 
misgivings, and much reluctance at first, that he contemplated 
this change in his field of labor ; but as there was a perfect una- 
nimity of sentiment in the Executive Committee, the professors in 
the Seminary at Princeton, and other ministerial brethren, all of 
whom he greatly respected, he yielded cheerfully to their judg- 
ment — viewing these things as a call from God to labor in that 
great and destitute part of the Saviour's vineyard. 

On the 5th of April, he was licensed to preach the Gospel by 
the Second Presbytery of New York. After leaving the Seminary 
in May, he spent a few weeks at home, preaching on the Sabbath 
in different churches. In July and August he was sent by the 
Executive Committee to the most distant land office in Michigan, 
to secure the pre-emption right to the mission station among the 



20 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

Chippewa Indians, as the government had advertised the Indian 
reservation for public sale. The sale, however, was postponed be- 
fore he reached the land office, and on his return he spent some 
time among the churches in Western New York. Late in the fall 
he visited his friends in Western Pennsylvania for the last time, 
and by these various journeys his health was much improved. 

He was ordained on the 9th of November, 1841, and on the 
evening of the last Sabbath of the same month, a deeply interest- 
ing farewell missionary meeting was held in the Brick church. 
New York. Addresses were made by the Rev. Gardiner Spring. 
D. D., pastor of the church, by the missionary, and by his father. 
These addresses would possess much interest now, but no copy of 
them was preserved. It was expected that the vessel would sail 
early in December, but she was delayed till in January, and in 
the interval his time was chiefly spent at home. 



New York, November 21st, 1S37. 
Mr. John Lloyd — 

Dear Brother : — Though this method of communication is 
but a poor substitute for that "sweet counsel'' we have so often en- 
joyed, yet as it is the best that now remains for us, I gladly embrace 
the first good opportunity that has yet occurred, to renew our friend- 
ship. For it does seem as though it. had to be renewed, when I 
think that, though you and myself have often "held sweet- 
est converse about what God had done for our souls." and that 
though our eyes have brightened and our hearts warmed, as we 
" talked by the Avay," yet now we are separated by a distance of 
more than four hundred miles, and are without the prospect of see- 
ing each other for months, and perhaps years. Yet though sepa- 
rated in body, I trust Ave are often present in spirit, and especially 
that, at the throne of " our Father," we can still enjoy communion, 
and be the means of profit to each other, perhaps even greater 
than that which our mutual conversations could have afforded. It 
is surely consoling to know that there is One who watches over us, 
and over our dearest friends, far better than we could possibly do, 
and that at all times He will do all things well. Yet, were it con- 
sistent with duty, I should like again to spend a few hours with 
you, and again partake in those social joys that kindred spirits like 
yours and mine so much delight in. My situation here, though 
fully as pleasant as I expected it to be, is very different from what 
it was in Canonsburg. I have as yet very few acquaintances here, 
and do not expect to have many. Those that I have, I know not 
what they are, for the rules of fashion are so trammelling, that 
one cannot at once make those friendly advances which are com- 
mon among you. Consequently when 1 would enjoy the holier 



LETTERS. 21 

joys of friendship, I must draw off my attention from things 
around me, and return to past days and scenes, in many of which 
you and one or two others held a conspicuous part. Do you mind 
that day after our missionary meeting of the Society of Inquiry, 
last March, when you and I took that long Avalk " over the hills 
and far away," and in our conversation seemed to have some fore- 
tastes of " glory begun below ?" Many and many a time has it 
risen to my mind, and if it has not drawn tears from my eyes, it 
has done what is better — encouraged me to go forward, and caused 
me to gird up the loins of my mind anew for the heavenly race, 
and made me sometimes to remember a friend, a fellow-expectant 
of what " eye hath not seen, nor ear heard, neither hath it entered 
into the heart of man .to conceive." Yet from what I have said, 
do not suppose that I am at all unhappy or discontented, or even 
disappointed. So far, at least, "I have learned in whatsoever state 
I am, therewith to be content ;" whether it will always be so or 
not, time will show. The contrast between my present way of 
living and that at Canonsburg, is very striking. I see very little 
company ; attend very few evening meetings ; don't make three or 
four speeches every week, (you know I was famous for that;) on 
the contrary, hardly open my mouth from one week's end to the 
other ; read a good deal ; study as much as I did at College ; and am 
on the whole becoming quite a domestic animal. I am very glad 
to find that comparative solitude agrees so well with me ; for I was 
really afraid that after being so used to meetings of one kind or 
another every night, it would be difficult to get along without them. 
In fact, it does require some effort to keep alive the spirit of piety, 
when one has nothing like the Society of Inquiry or the Brainerd 
Society to excite to action ; nothing but the stated ordinances of 
God's house to nourish the soul. Yet on that very account I prize 
my present situation the more, because I am thereby enabled, or 
perhaps I should say required, to live more by faith and less by 
sight, or frames and feelings. And to a missionary nothing can 
be more important, than to be able to live without anything to 
keep the soul in constant excitement ; for, as it has been well re- 
marked, " when he gets to his field of labor, he can attend no 
crowded meetings to hear some eloquent orator descant upon the 
magnanimity of the missionary enterprise." All the " romance of 
missions" must then be laid aside, and in its reality, he may almost 
be tempted to forget for whom and for what he is laboring, and be- 
coming discouraged, lay down his weapons, and retire vanquished 
from the field to which his Master called him. 

It seems to me, on looking back on the last two or three years 
of my collegiate course, that we all lived too much by excitement, 
not enough by simple faith. Our religious societies were precious 
and profitable, and I should be sorry to give them up, but perhaps 
we depended too much on them, without remembering that " Paul 
may plant and Apollos water, but God alone can give the increase ;" 
and this dependence on these means, (at least in my own case,) 



22 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

was productive of a spirit of action more resembling the "crackling 
of thorns," than the steady, intense flame that consumed the Jew- 
ish sacrifices. Oh, my brother ! guard against this spirit of trust- 
ing to anything in preference to the revealed will of God, and his 
ordinances, for animation in the divine life. 

What is the state of missionary feeling now among you ? Do 
you yet hear the voice, "Come over and help us," and the wailing 
cry, "And what then?" as it rises from the death-bed of the Hin- 
doo, and, borne across the waste of waters, reaches our ears both 
from the east and the west, swelled as it is, and heightened and 
prolonged by the addition of innumerable others? Oh, does the 
"cry of the nations," echoed and re-echoed from the distant moun- 
tains, still sound among you ? Or does it die away among the 
crumbling ruins of heathen temples, unheard and unheeded, save 
by the infidel and the deist? Oh, who is there to come up to the 
help of the Lord against the mighty ? There is nothing in all 
my course for which I reproach myself so much, as that I did so 
little to excite a missionary spirit at College. I do not mean among 
those who were already determined as to the path of duty, but 
among those who had not decided the question ; for very rarely 
did I press upon any of them as I should, the importance of the 
work, the necessity, absolute, increasing, and alas ! almost irreme- 
diable necessity now existing for laborers, and their own duty in 
this great matter. Dear brother, can you not do something? You 
have the confidence of most of the pious students, and could you 
but muster courage enough to determine to do something in this 
matter, unborn millions would bless you for it. Let me transcribe 
for you a few lines from an appeal of some missionaries in India ; 
you have perhaps seen them before, but they will bear reading and 
praying over again : 

" The soil is ready for the seed, and the seed ready to be sown, 
but where are the husbandmen ? In some places it has been scat- 
tered abroad and the fields are white for the harvest, but where are 
the reapers ? Congregations large and attentive might be procured 
every clay, but we have no men. Schools might be established on 
Christian principles, but we have no men. Humanly speaking, souls 
might be saved, but 'how can they hear without a jjreacher? 1 
You can increase the number of these queries to an almost indefinite 
extent, but the answer will almost always be, w r e have no men ! 
We have gone to the colleges and seminaries of learning, but we 
found few to answer our demands. We went to the haunts of so- 
ciety, but one was busied about his farm, and another about his 
merchandise, and another with the sweets of domestic society. 
We went to the schools of the prophets, and asked if on any of 
them rested the spirit of Elijah? but there were few to answer 
the call. Despairing, we looked to the heathen, and as we saw them 
go down by crowds to the darkness of the second death, we felt 
as if yet another effort should be made. Oh, who will go for us ?" 

Wishing you all temporal and all spiritual blessings, and sym- 



LETTERS. 23 

pathizing most sincerely with you in your late afflicting bereave- 
ment, (of which I have only just heard,) 

I remain your brother, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



New York, November 29th, 1837. 
Mr. Roger Owen — 

Dear Brother, — I had intended to have a long conversation 
with you, about the management of our Sabbath school next 
summer ; and though it may seem like officiousness in me to 
volunteer my advice, yet my brother, with whom I have been so 
long associated in that beloved place, will not take it hard, if I stir 
up his mind by way of remembrance. In the first place, it will 
be best for you to use your own judgment ; and at all times, while 
you do not appear to assume any power, you must let the scholars 
know that you are the superintendent. Govern them, however, 
by love. Try to enter into all their feelings, and make yo»r in- 
structions of such a character, that every one can understand you. 
If the children can understand you, there is no danger but that 
the older scholars will ; but the reverse is not so certain. Let 
your speeches, however, be always short. I erred sometimes in 
this, though not often conscious of it. Go about the room often ; 
walk up and down the aisles, and look at the classes as you pass : 
this will have a great effect, though I neglected it almost entirely. 
I am sure I did wrong in not doing it more than I did. Go to the 
several classes, and talk to each class at least once in the session. 
Here again I failed. The teachers always seemed to have enough 
to do, and I did not like to interrupt them. But I think it would 
be better to go sometimes, even if you do interrupt the regular 
lesson, and say a few words, even if you do not talk more than 
half a minute. But if you do go, don't talk more than three or 
four minutes. One of my class said, towards the close of the ses- 
sion, " Mr. Lowrie seems to have forgotten us entirely, for he 
never comes near us any more." Keep up the missionary talks 
by all means. Be sure, while you are speaking, always to seem, 
and I hope you will feel, as if there were none but children pres- 
ent, and no person else in 'the world knew what you were doing. 
And probably, when you are talking, and trying to lead their 
young minds heavenward, you will find it best not to say a great 
deal directly to induce them to be Christians. For example, don't 
say, " You ought to be Christians now, because you may die soon 
— because you will be the happier for it,"&c. ; but preach ' ; Christ 
and him crucified" to them. This way of telling children that it 
is their duty to be pious, and how great a benefit it will be to 
themselves, has generally but little permanent effect ; at least, it 
never had much on me, and I never found it to have much on 
others. These are some of the principal things that occurred to 
me, as being worth while to write to you about. I do not know 



24 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

that it was necessary that I should have written about them at 
all ; but if it was not. you know the motives which penned them. 

There is one thing which you cannot keep too distinctly before 
you — earnest, importunate prayer. You would probably find it 
an advantage to have a list of all your teachers, on a small slip 
of paper. Place this in your Bible, and make it a point to re- 
member at least one of them every day in your prayers. You 
should also have a list of all the scholars, and, if possible, know 
them all by their first names. Maintain, also, the utmost possible 
affection among - your teachers, and between them and yourself ; 
be a brother to them in heart, and your conduct will be all that is 
necessary. If you can, even at the expense of a good deal of in- 
convenience, make a circuit of the congregation on behalf of the 
Sabbath school, about the time you commence, you will find it of 
immense benefit. 

Such are some of the points on which 1 would like to have 
talked with you particularly, and one of my objects in writing 
them* to you, is to show you, that the interest I feel in Miller's 
Run Sabbath school, its teachers, and its present superintendent, 
is still unimpaired ; and long may it continue so ! It is my ear- 
nest prayer, that you may all increase in love, and be far more 
useful' and active than ever I was, and that the blessing of " Our 
Father" may rest upon you. Farewell, my brother. There is a 
place where, though separated in body, we can still meet, and 
hold communication with each other. 

W. M. Lowrie. 



New York, January 1st, 1838. 
Mr. John Lloyd — 

A happy new year to you, friend John ! and may you see many 
more such, if the Lord will ! What are you doing now, whilst I 
am writing to you ? Cousin John tells me you have holidays (old 
times are in that word,) at present ; so I will just let my imagin- 
ation try if she can find where you are, or what you are doing. 
But as you are pretty much of a home-loving creature, I suppose 
I need not go far to find you. Probably you are going about, pay- 
ing some fifteen minute visits, for you were never famous for long 
ones ; or very probably you are standing by the side of the old 
mill-dam, and watching the fellows skating. I hardly think you 
would adventure yourself on the ice, for you are most too grave 
for that. But no — I forget ; this is the first Monday of the 
month, and of the year, and therefore you are probably stuck up 
in a corner of your room, reading all the missionary pamphlets 
you can lay hands on. By the way, have you read the life of 
Swartz ? If you have not, let me " lay my commands" on you 
to read it immediately. You know how much our experience 
resembles each other's — now rejoicing, and now, ngain, discour- 
aged and without heart. Swartz was always on the proper pitch; 



LETTERS. 25 

constantly in the exercise of strong, unwavering, childlike confi- 
dence in God, and therefore he was always ready to employ him- 
self in his Master's business. He was always busy, always 
cheerful, and always useful. Dear brother, may we strive to be 
like him, and may we have the same success in our labors that 
he had in his ! I can ask for few blessings greater, either for you 
or for myself, than is contained in that wish. I read Bedell's 
memoirs some time ago, and have just now finished those of 
Hannah More. They are both of them most excellent. The 
former I was delighted with. The memoirs of the latter are also 
very interesting, indeed. They are compiled from her letters 
almost entirely, including a great many from various celebrated 
characters who were cotemporary with herself ; and are, I think, 
excellent models of epistolary correspondence. The style of 
almost all is very good, and, what is far more important, through 
most of them there is a strong vein of deep-toned sensibility and 
piety. I really began to entertain a considerable degree of rever- 
ence for her before I got quite through the memoir. She was an 
extraordinary woman, possessed of more than common talents, 
and able to do almost what she pleased ; yet, so far from indulging 
herself in this liberty, her whole life was spent in a most quiet manner, 
without any flashes, or romantic adventures or pursuits, or anything 
inconsistent with the character of a plain, common-sense woman. 

Mitchell and Orr, missionaries to China, sailed nearly a month 
ago. How soon will you be ready 1 Do you still think of China 
in preference to India ? 

It seems strange that this is the beginning of another year. 
How the time rolls round ! Yet to me the thought that time is 
rapidly passing away is pleasant. It is solemn, and yet most 
delightful, to think that my " salvation is nearer than when I be- 
lieved ;" that, if I am a Christian, I am three years nearer to my 
heavenly home than when first the light of truth beamed on my 
darkened and distressed mind. True, of many misimprovements 
and much waste of precious time, I have to accuse myself ; yet 
still the Lord is full of compassion, and the blood of Christ cleans- 
eth from all sin ; and through him I can look death in the face, 
and exclaim, when Satan, and doubts, and fears assail me, " I 
know that my Redeemer liveth." By the way, I heard a sermon 
on that text yesterday, from an Episcopal minister. He said that 
the word translated Redeemer in this passage, was the same as 
that used in Ruth iii. 9, " A near kinsman," or, as the margin has 
it, " One that has a right to redeem." The mention that such 
was the meaning of the word, led me into a train of very pleasing 
and profitable thought. If we had been taken captive by enemies, 
and knew that our father, or mother, or brother, were aware of it, 
we should be sure that they would use every exertion to ransom 
us. But there is a friend that sticketh closer than a brother : this 
friend is our Redeemer, and this Redeemer is the omnipotent God. 
Can there, then, be any doubt of our final salvation ? 



«b MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

The last two or three months have been very pleasant ones. I 
seem to have had more nearness of access to God, greater confi- 
dence in the Saviour, and more of the influences of the Spirit, 
than I have usually had. Among other reasons for these great 
blessings, I have no doubt but the prayers of my many friends in 
Canonsburg and its vicinity have had much effect. I still need 
your prayers very much, for I am prone every moment to fall. 

And now, brother, my paper tells me I must close ; and com- 
mending you to the grace of God, which is able to keep you 
through faith unto salvation, I remain, 

Your affectionate brother in Christ, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



New York, January 27th, 1838. 
Mr. Roger Owen — 

Dear Brother : — It would be in vain to attempt to tell you 
how much pleasure your letter gave me. Although all the letters 
I have received this winter awakened delightful associations, and 
opened up fountains of fond reminiscences, yet none did so more 
than yours. I could almost think we were again sitting on the 
logs, or under the old shady trees at Miller's Run, and holding 
sweet converse as in days past. It seemed as if we were again 
walking out together to " Pleasant Valley," " Rural Retreat," or 
" Linden Hill," or some other such place, and from behind every 
tree some old friend would step out to welcome me, and every fence- 
corner and hollow tree told a tale of other times. It may be fancy, 
but I always think I can see the face of a friend, and hear his 
voice, and recall all his peculiar modes of speaking and pronunci- 
ation, when I see his handwriting. 

I was indeed sorry to hear that none of our dear Sabbath School 
scholars had joined the church, and more than once while think- 
ing of it, tears would have been a relief; yet I could not say that 
it was surprising. It was but just, for so many imperfections and 
so much unfaithfulness marked my conduct and prayers and 
labors there during the last summer, that I could hardly expect any- 
thing else. Dear brother, profit by my experience, and avoid the 
keen self-reproaches which I often feel on account of my negli- 
gence. How much more prayerful I might have been ! How 
much more earnest and faithful in my labors and appeals to the 
consciences of those who met in our school. You cannot pray too 
much for the school ; you cannot labor too much for their conver- 
sion. Slack not, then, your diligence ; oh, be faithful ! Labor, if 
need be night and day with tears, if by any means you may save 
some ; and assuredly you will not repent of your exertions on a dying 
bed, or at the judgment day. I speak this to stir you up, know- 
ing from my own feelings how unpleasant is the recollection of 
unfaithfulness. You all, 1 believe, thought me active, and in 
some degree faithful ; but none of you knew as I did and do now, 



LETTERS. 27 

how much more I might have done had I imitated our blessed 
Saviour, " who pleased not himself." Yet though I was unfaith- 
ful, there were others who were not so, and therefore I do not 
despair, but hope and believe that the labors of last summer will 
not all be lost. 

I have not much to add to what was said in my last, about your 
duties, though there are two things which you have probably 
thought of before now. 

1st. When any children or young persons come into the church 
in the morning, to go and ask them to join some class, unless you 
know they will not; this should always be done. Last summer, 
I observed three or four little girls and boys who came in one 
morning, and sat in one of the vacant seats. The first morning 
I went and asked them to join some class, but could not persuade 
them to do so. The next day several came, and as they appeared 
to be the same, I did not ask them to join a class. So it was the 
next day. and on the fourth Sabbath, rinding they were still there, 
I determined to ask them again, though hardly expecting they 
would. To my great surprise they consented at once. I felt a 
pang in my conscience for leaving them thus for two or three 
Sabbaths without pressing the matter, and even yet, the recollec- 
tion of it is very painful. 

2d. It is hardly worth while to tell you the second, though 
it would have been well for me if I had known it: don't do 
everything yourself, and yet be the soul of all that is done. 
That is, there are many things the teachers can do, and if you 
would just direct them or ask them to do it, while you employ 
yourself about other matters, it would make them feel more re- 
sponsibility, and extend your influence, and give you time for other 
things. For instance, the teachers ought to feel that it is their 
duty to increase the number of scholars, not only in their own 
classes but in others, and not leave this entirely to the superinten- 
dent. 

When one of your teachers is absent, and procures another to 
supply his or her place, be sure that you yourself take the person 
who is to supply, and introduce him to the class. This is your 
business, and not the business of the teacher who may accompany 
him to the house. 

I was at Princeton last week, " spying out the land," and brought 
back a favorable report. If life and health be spared, I shall prob- 
ably go there next summer. Your brother was well, and all of 
our Jeffersonians, of whom there were a dozen. 

May I recommend you a plan of studying the Bible which I 
have found exceedingly profitable ? i. e., to study three or four 
verses every morning carefully, with all Scott's marginal references. 
Take up faith, repentance, the love of Christ, humility, &c, or 
some particular subject. 

1 am your affectionate brother, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



28 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

Princeton, July 4th, 1838. 
My Dear Mother — 

... I get up every morning at half past four, often sooner, but 
rarely later, and take a walk of one or two miles. It is most invig- 
orating to the whole system, while the fresh air, singing birds, plec» 
ant fragrance of the fields, and the thousand and one nameless 
pleasures of a morning walk, concur to make it a most delightful 
custom. When I get back it is near breakfast time. The appro- 
priate duties of the morning over, I commence study at seven, and 
continue till half past ten, or perhaps eleven, at Latin, Greek and 
Hebrew, singing a little at intervals by way of relaxation. Din- 
ner is ready at half past twelve, and miscellaneous employments 
occupy me till two ; then some regular reading connected with the 
course here, till half past four. Prayers and supper at five, and 
company, talking, walking, singing, meetings, bathing, reading, 
writing, thinking, and not thinking, &c, till nine. Generally I 
manage to be asleep soon after ten. My next door neighbor has 
an alarm clock, which usually awakens me in the morning, and 
if it did not the old bell would at five. Though not pursuing the 
regular studies of my class, I find abundance to do, and my time 
generally passes in the way above described. 

There is here, as may be supposed, every variety of character. 
The variety is fully as great, if not greater, than it was at College, 
excluding of course those who were not professors of religion. 
There is a good deal of reserve among the students towards new 
comers, though perhaps not greater than one would expect. As 
yet I have not made many intimate acquaintances, and do not 
wish to, for a short time. There are, however, some lovely spir- 



its among these brethren. 



Yours affectionately, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Princeton, July 21st, 1838. 
Mr. Roger Owen — 

Dear Brother, — Another week has passed — your session is 
more than half, and ours more than one third over ; and yet to 
me, as probably to you, it seems but a few days since it com- 
menced. It seems almost strange sometimes, that we can be 
indolent or weary in well-doing, when Ave think how short our 
time is. Were it not that we have almost daily experience to the 
contrary, we should think there was no danger of our becoming 
cold in the service of our Master. But " ere one fleeting hour is 
past," we often feel our hearts grow cold. But though we are 
fickle and changing as the morning cloud, or the smoke of the 
chimney, or the chaff from the threshing-floor, yet God remaineth 
ever the same, unchangeably glorious and good to all his crea- 
tures. The thought, that we shall one day be admitted to dwell 



LETTERS. 29 

with him, to be ever with the Lord, is glorious indeed, and may- 
well induce us to bear trials, and temptations, and sorrows, and 
labors, for his sake. This was much impressed upon my mind 
the other day, when thinking on the verse, " Fear not, little flock, 
for it is your Father's good pleasure to give you the kingdom." 
How emphatic ! every word almost has its meaning. " Little 
flock" — an expression of tenderness. What must have been our 
Saviour's feelings, as he looked on his disciples and uttered these 
words ! (Luke xii. 32.) An innumerable multitude were around 
him — Pharisees and Sadducees, his enemies, and those who said 
they belonged to no party. But his all-seeing eye, and all-know- 
ing mind, as it glanced over that vast multitude, saw but a few 
of his own real followers. The vast majority were his enemies. 
His own were few, like sheep in the world's wide desert, surround- 
ed with those who would rejoice to drink their blood, and extir- 
pate them from the earth. But the voice of Jesus falls like soft 
music on their ears, " Fear not, little flock," though the world 
oppose you, though men rise up against you, though this is not 
your rest — yet still " it is your Father's good pleasure to give you 
the kingdom." " Our Father" — the most endearing, trust-inspir- 
ing name that could be given him. " Good pleasure" — not plea- 
sure merely, but his good pleasure, his delight. " To give" — for 
we do not deserve, and cannot purchase it, unworthy, weak, and 
sinful as we are. " The kingdom" — not a kingdom, but the 
kingdom, — the only one worth having, the only one whose pos- 
session does not give its owner more sorrow than joy, more thorns 
than roses. A kingdom includes all our ideas of worldly happi- 
ness — wealth, honor, fame, ease, pleasure, and the power of doing 
good — all this ; yet every earthly kingdom is but a faint shadow 
of better things to come, which eye hath not seen, nor ear heard, 
nor hath it entered into the heart of man to conceive. Pardon 
me, my brother, if I have unreasonably trespassed on your pa- 
tience by the above, but the train of thought pleased me, and 
perhaps it may cheer you, sometimes, in difficulty or distress. 

The other morning, when taking a walk before breakfast, I 
found a little bird, just fledged, on the road ; it could fly only a 
few steps. The innocent little thing let me catch it, and hold it, 
without appearing at all alarmed ; but the parent birds were in 
great distress. I set it down, and it ran off into some long grass. 
The old birds immediately flew down, and began to limp along 
before me in several curious figures ; and after going ten or twelve 
yards, one of them very slyly turned back, while the other led me 
on some forty or fifty yards further, and then, taking wing, thought, 
though she did not say, " Good morning to you, sir ;" and flew 
back to the place where we commenced our acquaintance, and I 
saw her no more. You may draw your own moral from this ; it 
pleased me very much. 

I have just received a letter from Mrs. G , which revived 

many old recollections. The continued prosperity of your school 



30 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

rejoices my heart, though I am sometimes tempted almost to envy 
you the privilege you have in attending there. May the Lord be 
with and bless you abundantly. I was surprised and delighted, 
as well as humbled, to hear of the effect produced by the letter I 
sent some time ago. If it produces any good effects, it cannot be 
owing to any goodness of the author, but only to the grace of God. 
You still keep up the missionary talks. What subject do you at- 
tend to this summer ? and how much interest appears to be felt 
in this great, great subject ? It seems, to me at least, more and 
more important, that a missionary spirit be excited in the minds 
of children — of young children. While we must not, by any 
means, neglect the Catechism and the Bible, or rather the Bible 
and the Catechism, yet now is the best time to make them feel 
on the subject of saving a world. If they be instructed in the 
principles of missions now, they will need no argument to con- 
vince them of the importance and duty of sending the gospel to 
the heathen. 

There are some lovely spirits here. The standard of piety is 
by no means as high as it should be ; but still there are some who 
seem to walk with God. The missionary brethren, of w T hom there 
are some fourteen or fifteen, include some of the best men in the 
Seminary. It has been very profitable to me to be here, but still 
I find it requires watching and prayer ; and often, O very often, 
does this cold heart become weary in well-doing. Often does it 
become very formal, and search for truth more with a critical than 
a practical view. This is one of the great dangers here. Dear 
brother, pray for me. Be courageous, and strong in the service 
of God. Did you ever observe the blessed promises and encour* 
agements of the first chapter of Joshua ? They apply to us, as 
well as to Joshua of old. 

May the Lord of love and peace be with, and bless you abun- 
dantly. 

Your affectionate brother in Christ, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Princeton, September 8th, 183S. 
Dear Mother — 

.... With one exception this country is very pleasant, but that 
exception is a great drawback ; we have none of the grand hills 
and valleys that are found about the Alleghany river, and conse- 
quently but little variety of scenery. The sunset scenes here sur- 
pass in beauty all that I have ever seen, for such a country is just 
the kind for them ; wide plains "bathed in light," and gradually 
becoming less and less visible' as the sun sinks in the west, con- 
spire to shed a peaceful impression o\er the mind. But for that 
very reason our morning prospects are dull. The animating scene 
of the sun gilding first the tops of the hills, then penetrating to 
the deep valleys, is not witnessed here 



LETTERS. 31 

I have never, it seems to me, felt such a true affection for all 
my relations and friends, as dining this summer, and never such 
a willingness to leave them all, and go wherever duty might call, 
even, if necessary, to the " grave of the white man," Western Af- 
rica — where few are laboring, and none seem ready to go and 
help them. Dr. Miller made some excellent remarks at our last 
Monthly Conceit, on the necessity of more entire dependence on 
the Spirit of God in the work of missions. Some statements had 
been made hi regard to the great want of laborers in some fields, 
and he took occasion thence to observe that we are too apt to rely 
on mere human strength, and if a person has filled ai^ particular 
station well for a length of time, we imagine it would be left en- 
tirely unsupplied on his removal, as though man and not God was 
the cause of any success or prosperity. It was a consoling truth, 
and especially so for those who, as watchmen, know best the wants 
of the world, and the difficulty of supplying them. . . . 

Our session closes in a short time, and if spared, I hope to be 
home this day three weeks. I had intended going on foot to 
Easton, and through the northern parts of New Jersey, but have 
now decided to wait till near the close of vacation. Besides, I 
have some thought of studying Hebrew with Dr. Nordheimer, in 
New York, during the vacation. He is undoubtedly the best He- 
brew scholar in the United States, though yet a very young man. 
He told me I might acquire a good knowledge of it in that time, 
and if so, the course here would not only be less laborious, but in 
some things far more profitable. 

My health is better now, and appears more firm than it has ever 
been ; and though I have studied harder than ever before, yet the 
pain in my breast has almost entirely left me, and I have not had 
an hour's sickness of any kind since leaving New York. Truly 
" my cup runneth over." Yet probably a week of sickness would 
prostrate me far more than many others, but " sufficient unto the 
day is the evil thereof." Thus far I have had strength given me 
for the performance of duty, and here I raise my Ebenezer : 

" Hither by thy grace I'm come, 
And I hope by thy good pleasure, 
Safely to arrive at home." 

There is a beautiful hymn and tune in the Manhattan collec- 
tion, page 200. We have a good deal of singing and music here, 
but not much good music. The style of singing does not please 
one very well, who has imbibed Mr. Hastings' love of distinct ar- 
ticulation and expression. 

With much affection, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



32 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

New York, October 6th. 1838. 
Mr. John M. Lowrie — 

Dear Cousin : — The news of our dear Sarah's death was en- 
tirely unexpected. I had heard she was unwell, and apparently 
declining, but had no expectation at all that she would so soon be 
called hence. 

I can sympathize with you, dear cousin, for your case is much 
like my own. In my first session at College I lost my mother, and 
in my third my sister ; a sister too, whose sweet and engaging dis- 
position had made her to be loved by all who knew her. It is my 
prayer and my hope that this affliction may be sanctified to us all, 
and that, while our ties to earth are being severed one by one, we 
may be the closer drawn to our God, and may place our affections 
more and more in heaven, where there is no more sickness nor 
sorrow, nor pain nor death. My return to New York this fall was 
rendered solemn by several circumstances. About a month ago, 
one of our Sunday School teachers, an amiable and pious young 
lady, died ; and last Monday, a sister of another. These circum- 
stances seem to have cast a gloom over the circle of our friends 
here, which is increased by the dangerous illness of two or three 
others. Truly we live in a world of death, and it seems strange 
that we should ever seek for happiness in such a world. 

" None but Jesus 
Can do helpless sinners good." 

Messrs. Scott, Freeman, and Warren, with their wives, expect 
to sail from Philadelphia for India next Monday. Father is at 
Philadelphia now, and will not return until they go. I became 
very much attached to Brother Scott this summer. He was for- 
merly my Bible class teacher at College, and it was very pleasant 
to renew our mutual acquaintance again. His wife is spoken of 
as a most superior woman ; I have been much disappointed in not 
seeing her. Mr. and Mrs. Warren spent a day or two with us, in 
the fore-part of this week. 

Your affectionate cousin, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Princeton, February 22d, 1839. 
Mr. John Lloyd — 

Dear Brother: — I have not laughed as heartily this session, 
as I did when reading that " called in the vernacular tongue" let- 
ter you sent me some time ago. My good landlady, by whom I 
was sitting, said there must be something very funny in it, for she 
never knew me to laugh so before. I have just been reading it 
over, and feel my spirits quite elevated. 

This has been a great day here among the College students. 
They had some twenty or twenty-five speeches, (Senior,) all deliv- 
ered in our Seminary Chapel, as their own is not large enough. 



LETTERS. 33 

They have one very amusing custom here on such occasions : 
some of the wittier chaps get together and form a list containing 
the names of all who speak, to each of which they add a subject, 
and the name of some tune. In all these subjects, tunes, &c.. 

there is some allusion to some peculiarity in the speakers 

I attended but for a few minutes, being busy with my Hebrew 
and a Report for Society of Inquiry. We find it difficult even 
here to keep up the interest in our Society of Inquiry, though the 
organization is very perfect. The Committee meetings here are 
almost as profitable as those of the Society of Inquiry, as we 
usually discuss some question, or have an essay on some subject 
connected with the object of the Committee. 

On the subject of personal religious feeling, I suppose I can 
sympathize with you as formerly. It is distressing to feel that 
we ought to be more engaged in the service of God, and yet feel a 
deadness, a numbness of all the moral feelings, when we contem- 
plate divine things. In such a condition, the word of God, while 
we see that it has force, makes no impression on us ; prayer seems 
more like a task than a pleasure ; meditation is a tedious, taste- 
less thing. And yet we cannot feel happy in the world ; that 
does not satisfy us ; that cannot fill the aching void. But it is 
profitable to be left thus, at times ; for then we feel more and 
more our own weakness, and perhaps it would not do for persons 
constituted as you and I are, to enjoy too much of mere comfort : 
we would place our hearts too much on the pleasure, and be in 
danger of forgetting Him from whom it came. On this subject 
there is great danger, too, of our making mistakes, and, because 
we do not enjoy religion as much as formerly, of thinking we are 
not as engaged as we were then. The truth, I suppose, is, that 
we are not to measure our standard of piety by our enjoyment, so 
much as by the steadiness of our purpose of self-consecration to 
God. The more willing we feel to renounce all for him, to sub- 
mit to him, to be anything or nothing as he chooses — indeed, to 
have our will entirely swallowed up in his, just so far, and no far- 
ther, do we grow in grace. Like John the Baptist we shall say 
of our Saviour, "He must increase, but I must, decrease." And 
there is a pleasure in lying down at the feet of Jesus, and yielding 
ourselves to him, which may not be accompanied with tumultuous 
joy, but it brings a calm and holy peace which the world never 
knew. At such times we look on death and the grave without 
fear, nay, almost with desire ; for, though we are willing to labor 
our three score years and ten, yet we feel that " to be with Christ 
is far better." Dear brother, when you feel your heart, so cold, 
does it not rejoice you to think that in heaven it will not be so? — 
that there you shall know and love as much as you wish, and 
that these vexing cares and trying experiences will be no more ? 

l; There is an hour of peaceful rest 
To mourning wanderers given ; 



3 ! MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

There is a joy for souls distressed — 

A balm for every wounded breast : 

'Tis found above — in heaven." 

Wherefore, ray brother, comfort your heart with these words. 
The Psalmist, in his affliction, remembered God "from the land 
of the Hermonites, and the hill Mizar." There is a land and a 
hill to which you can refer with feelings of joy — I need not say 
where nor when. I commenced the preceding page with my own 
heart in the dust ; but these thoughts have gladdened it and re- 
freshed me. 

I think yon will be highly delighted with the Seminary course, 
especially the study of Hebrew ; nothing ever delighted me so 
much, in the way of study, as that venerable language; and the 
facilities of studying it are now so great that any one may ac- 
quire it. Get Nordheimer's Grammar by all means, and don't 
think of any other ; it is a real treat to read that Grammar. 

I must close, but only for want of time to write more. The 
Jefferson students here are all well, and, if they kneAV I was writ- 
ing, would doubtless ask to be remembered to you. 

Farewell. — Pray for me. 

In Christian love, yours, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Princeton, April 19th, 1839. 
Mr. Roger Owen — 

Dear Brother : — You are now probabby returned, and are 
about to commence your pastoral visitation. I could wish to be 
along with you, to go from house to house, and step in and chat a 
few moments, and say something about the weather, and something 
about the school, and, on a good occasion, something for our Mas- 
ter, — and then pass on. May our Father bless you in your visits, 
and in all you do about that beloved school. I hope and pray 
you may find your highest expectations more than realized, and 
that the Lord will come down, and make bare his arm in your 
midst this summer. Remember me very kindly to Prof. Smith. 
As to advice about conducting the school, &c, I am not competent 
fto give any that would be of much use to you. I hope sincerely 
you will still continue the missionary talks; and, if you have op- 
portunity, it might be well for you to get as many of the people as 
possible to take the Chronicle. 

Permit me to congratulate you on your success at the last Con- 
test. I can do so, without anything of the spirit of Society which 
I felt when at College ; and I may also add my earnest hope, that 
my dear brother will not be injured, as too many others have been, 
by the boners of this world, which, though glittering, are unsatis- 
fying; though apparently full, are empty; though promising 
much, are deceitful. 

We shall look for you here next fall, and I hope to have work' 



ready for you, when you do come. You will find some warm 
hearts ready to receive you ; and, however you may be disap- 
pointed as to the degree of piety here, you will still find many and 
great, and exceeding precious privileges, and means of preparing 
for future usefulness, which you would not probably find else- 
where. But bring with you the pure and glowing flame of piety, 
or you will find it difficult to kindle it here. As is the standard 
of piety in Colleges, so, very nearly, will it be in' the Seminary. 
They who are faithful or unfaithful in the lower sphere, will be 
much the same in the higher. I hope, especially, you will make 
your influence felt in the Brainerd Evangelical Society. It is 
your last summer, and I am sure you will find no greater privi- 
leges here than you enjoy there. That Society ought to do much, 
and you should not confine your efforts merely to attempt to kin- 
dle the flame in 3^our own breast, though even this you will find 
hard work. It is best roused by active exertion in endeavoring to 
go out of one's self. You know our two resolutions, to " converse 
with the impenitent," and " to converse with Christians ;" what- 
ever you may do about the former of these, the latter is worth a 
serious trial again. Both had an excellent effect on us that sum- 
mer. But I am lecturing to you with as much authority as if I 
were your master, and not merely your fellow-serVant. Did you 
ever observe that all the seven epistles in Rev. ii. and iii. com- 
mence, " I know thy icoi^ks ?" There is something curious and 
worthy of thought about that. 

Monday, April 22nd. Dr. Brown came to my room on Friday 
night, and the Jefferson students assembled, and we had an 
hour's talk, and sung and prayed twice. It was as much as 1 
could do to keep from weeping, when the venerable old Doctor 
raised the first tune. It seemed like former times, when we met 
in the Senior Hall, and lifted up our hearts to God. 
Your affectionate brother in Christ, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Princeton, June 24th, 1839. 
Mr. John Lloyd — 

Dear Brother : — .... I am very sorry you cannot come 
here in the fall. To me nothing would afford greater pleasure ; 
for one of kindred spirit with myself, to enter fully into all my 
feelings and sympathize with me, I have not found since we parted 
— at least, none like yourself. It pains me now at times, when I 
think how much more profitable we might have been to each 
other in the Christian life. But it also rejoices me, to think of our 
seasons of Christian intercourse, and of the long walks we had 
over the hills, when we talked of heaven, and our hearts burned 
as our Saviour met with us by the way. Do you ever now enjoy 
such seasons ? Yesterday Dr. Alexander preached on 2 Cor. iii. 18 ; 
" We all, with open face," &c. While preaching, a few thoughts 



36 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

of the astonishing condescension and love of Jesus, the great God. 
taking our nature upon him, and living "manifest in the flesh." 
seemed to fill my mind. I could readily conceive of a Christian's 
soul being swallowed up in contemplation of God's character and 
the Saviour's love. Oh ! the riches of boundless, endless grace ! 
Yet it is not often this icy heart is thus melted, and oh, it is much 
easier for the flame once kindled to die away, than to mount up 
and reach towards heaven. Dear brother, pray for me. The 
Christian's life is a warfare, and more and more do I feel that 
every day must witness conflicts and battles sore and long. Why 
should the soldiers slumber when the enemy is upon them? Es- 
pecially why should the leaders be remiss when the danger is so 
urgent? 

The subject of missions receives some attention here, but not 
what it deserves. Last term the interest was considerable, and 
there were twelve or fifteen who looked forward to the foreign 
field as their future destination. How flourishes the spirit of mis- 
sions at College? You have never mentioned this in any of your 
letters. I hope the Brainerd Society prospers. That band of bro- 
thers might do wonders; they ought to do much. So we all 
should. But oh ! how cold our love, how weak our faith is found. 
" Ye know the grace of our Lord Jesus Christ." 

Most truly yours, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Princeton, July 10th, 1839. 
Mr. Roger Owen — 

Dear Brother : — Your last letter contained good and bad 
news. I almost envied you the privilege of going round among 
those dear people, and of superintending that beloved school; but 
I rejoiced that you accomplished so much, and that the Lord 
seemed so to smile on your efforts. May his blessing crown them 
with greater and yet greater success ! I wish you would write to 
me soon, and draw off a little diagram of the school, and mark 
down the position of every class, number of scholars in it, and 
teacher's name. You have been making such additions to the 
school that I don't know how you look ; and then just give me the 
order of exercises. 

The bad news in your letter was the illness of Mrs. S. and 
Mrs. G. By a letter to Griffith, I hear they are both called away. 
The stroke fell heavily upon me, and 1 was forced to feel the truth 
of the sentiments of a piece in my Album, written by Mary Ann. 
"Oh what a changeful world is this," &c. The news of then- 
death, though feared for some time, came unexpectedly ; I did 
hope to see at least one of them in the fall. I shall never forget 
an expression used by Mrs. S., when I was sitting by the window 
in their house one Sabbath morning. She suddenly spoke to me ; 
"Mr. Lowrie, don't you expect to go to India?" I told her yes. 



LETTERS. 37 

" Well, I just thought so ;" and soon after she said with deep emo- 
tion, " Well, Mr. Lowrie, we will think of you when you go there." 
My heart was full, and I could only say, " I hope so." If the spir- 
its of the blest may look down and see their friends on earth, per- 
haps she and her daughter will think of me, but they will never 
on earth again see me or hear of me. 

" Yet why should we a drop bemoan, 
"Who have the fountain near." 

And while Jesus thinks of us, and he will never forget us, why 
should we sorrow too much for the encouragements of our friends 1 
Tell me a good deal in your next about their last days ; and if 
you could secure me some little memento of either or both of 
them, I would prize it highly. 

Now a little about myself. I was at home in May and half of 
June, but did very little; came back here about the middle of 
June, and found my hands full of business at once, besides the 
regular studies of the Seminary. I have charge of the Seminary 
Library, of a prayer-meeting weekly in Queenston. about one mile 
from the Seminary, and about two weeks ago, when the superin- 
tendent of our Sunday School in dueenston resigned, I was unan- 
imously elected to fill his place. The school is small, but much 
out of order just now, consequently, I have much to do. Come on 
in the fall, and we will have a class ready for you. Last Sabbath 
morning, I got to thinking how we used to walk about, and go up 
and down those long steep hills, and all around there. " The 
memory of joys that are past is like the music of Caryl, pleasant 
and mournful to the soul." 

We have a couple of brethren in the seminary going out to 
Africa in two weeks, Canfield and Alward ; the former is licensed 
to preach, the latter is not yet. They go to explore, and will 
probably return and spend the first unhealthy season here. I feel 
a deep interest in that mission. Three others go to India in the 
fall. There are, besides these, ten or eleven others here who look 
forward to the work of missions, besides several who are exam- 
ining the subject. Remember us in your prayers. Please write 
soon. 

My time is up and I must bid you good-by. The blessing of 
our Father in heaven be with you. 

Your brother in Christian affection, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Princeton, August 21st, 1839. 
To Mr. John Lloyd — 

Dear Friend : — Your letter did me good like a cordial. It 
convinced me, though I did not need that, that there was one per- 
son in the world who cared for so useless and insignificant a crea- 



38 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

lure us myself; that I was sometimes affectionately remembered 
when the lowering clouds without were but an emblem of the 
deeper gloom within ; and when despondency seemed to paralyze 
the energies of the soul, that still there were those who would 
pray for me ; and sympathize with me. It was good news from a 
far country : and, if you will pardon the comparison, as Jonathan 
stripped off his own robe and gave it to David, so did the disposi- 
tion and frame you seemed to be in steal over my mind. 

There is not much missionary spirit in the Seminary at present, 
and few, if any, have lately decided to go abroad. Still there ap- 
pears to be an under-current of feeling on the subject, which, we 
hope, will soon manifest itself openly. I have not yet decided 
where to go, and do not expect to, for some time. But let me 
whisper in your ear, for I don't want it known, that I look to a 
field nearer home than China, or even North India. Don't hold 
up your hands in astonishment at this — I mean Western Africa, 
the white man's grave. There has been a great change of feeling 
in the Seminary, in regard to this field, since I came here. Last 
summer, at the first part of the session, there was not one student 
who even thought of Western Africa as a missionary field. But 
during the course of the last winter, one, and then another, of the 
brethren determined to go to Western Africa, and they have now 
gone. May our Father go with them ! I look on this experiment 
with deep interest ; — it is yet an experiment, but I hope it will be 
successful. 

My religious feelings are exceedingly cold at present. It is dif- 
ficult to be always engaged in the critical study of the Bible, and 
collateral objects of inquiry, and not have the mind at times drawn 
away from the spirit to the mere letter of the commands. Yet I 
do at times, even in recitation, obtain a glimpse of Him whom my 
soul loveth ; and O, how sweet is his countenance ! The doc- 
trine of justification by faith has appeared to me in a clearer light 
this summer than ever before ; and though sometimes the '• old 
man" seems to revolt against it, yet it always seems the most 
glorious to God, and worthy of acceptance. It gives an immova- 
ble ground of confidence, and removes every reason for'despair. 
O that we may both heartily embrace it, and be saved for Christ's 
sake only ! 

Write to me soon. 

Your brother in Christ, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Princeton, December 5th, 1S39 
My Dear Mother — 

I am afraid you will think I am forgetting you entirely ; but 1 
am kept so busy by various matters, that there seems to be no 
time for correspondence, or writing, or any of the social duties. 

We have received forty-seven new students this session, and 



LE1TERS. 39 

probably will receive a few more. Much to my gratification, two 
of my most intimate College friends are among the number. This. 
with other mercies, makes my cup overflow. My health has con- 
tinued very good. I felt rather lonely in leaving home to come 
here, and it did seem but too short a time to spend but two weeks 

with you 

Yours affectionately, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Princeton, December 11th, 1839. 
Mr. John Lloyd- 
Dear. Brother : — -Your very welcome epistle was taken up 
principally in proposing objections to Western xlfrica as a mission- 
ary field ; and I was glad to read them ; not that they have al- 
tered the current of my desires, but they brought the subject fully 
before me again. 

Your objections were — 1st. The unhealthiness of Western Af- 
rica, and 2nd. The prospects of usefulness in North India or 
China. The first is a strong one, and even stronger, perhaps, than 
you suppose ; in one point of view, and to one ignorant of the facts, 
it is so. Of one hundred and ten missionaries sent by the Church 
Missionary Society, in the course of thirty years, a very large propor- 
tion died in two or three months, and vastly the majority before 
they did anything : yet the very first one who went out lived 
twenty-three years, and several others shorter periods. But the 
question is, why so many died so soon? Answer : 1st. Because 
of the unhealthiness of the climate. 2nd. Because far less was 
known of the climate of Western Africa by medical men than of 
almost any other tropical country ; and therefore their remedies 
were not so skilfully applied, nor preventives so effectually used 
in the first instance. 3d. Because many of the missionaries act- 
ed exceedingly rashly when they first commenced operations. 
They came from England and Germany, and, in some cases, with 
insufficient accommodations on their voyage. They commenced 
their labors immediately. During the hot summer they preached 
two or three times every Sabbath, superintended schools during 
the week, worked at hard work often. Others, particularly fe- 
males, died of complaints not peculiar to any climate. As to the 
first reason, it is with me a question whether the climate of Africa 
is at all more unhealthy than that of India. 

Now for the second. — The prospect of doing a great deal of good 
is very flattering in India. But is Africa to be left until India is 
evangelized? Perhaps, also, we do not at, all know what the 
prospects are in Africa. I am inclined to think them very exten- 
sive. Certainly our missionaries have their hands full, and much 
more. What else can they say in India? Again, the human 
heart is the same everywhere ; yet I apprehend that there are not 
so many obstacles in Africa to the conversion of the natives as 



40 ' MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

there are in India. They are a ruder people ; they have less to 
pride themselves upon in the way of science, arts, and wealth, 
than the Hindus ; and we know that not many noble, not. many 
mighty, are called. True, the Lord is able to convert the learned 
and proud, just as well as the ignorant and degraded ; blessed be 
his name for it: yet still, do we not commonly find, that among 
the latter there are more cases of hopeful conversion than among 
the former? But I have not time now to continue the subject. 
These are some of the reasons, barely mentioned, and thrown 
together without, any order, that combine to make me prefer 
Western Africa. China, I fear, is to me out of the question. 
My life will probably be short at best, and I certainly expect the 
greater part of it would be gone before I could master that lan- 
guage. Siam I might like on some accounts. I have talked of 
India often, and while my brother was there, I thought of that 
country ; but it has never appeared to me in so inviting an aspect 
as it has to some others. My sympathies are awakened for Af- 
rica. My judgment, perhaps influenced somewhat by my sympa- 
thies, speaks for her ; the prospects of usfulness call loudly ; 
objections do not seem so strong to me as to some others ; and 
" Here am I, Lord," is all I have to say about this subject. My 
mind is not made up, and will not be, till I have more carefully 
examined the subject. The Lord direct my inquiries, and yours 
also, my dear brother. 

We are now engaged in studying theology — an interesting, de- 
lightful, and infinite subject. 

Yours in the most cordial Christian love, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Princeton, January 2d, 1840. 

My Dear Mother — 

.... I sometimes find it very difficult to refrain from quoting 
the words of Scripture, to point a joke or to adorn a tale. The 
words are suggested to the mind so appropriately, that it seems as 
if we could hardly help using them. Yet this certainly is a temp- 
tation either of Satan or our own deceitful hearts, and therefore 
should be avoided. It is a hard thing so to keep our lips that they 
offend not, and one is reminded sometimes of that Scripture, "If 
any man offend not in word, the same is a perfect man, and able 
also to bridle the whole body." How inconceivable to us poor 
creatures it seems, that our Saviour, in all his stay upon earth, 
never spoke an idle word ; yet such was the fact. 

Last Sabbath I was reading Psalm xci. in the Sabbath School. 
The last verse is, "With long life will I satisfy him, and show 
him my salvation." The word " satisfy," has great force and 
expressiveness here. Men generally are not satisfied with life ; 
they wish it were longer, and when about to die, they shrink back 
from the approaching conflict. The life too of the child of God 



LETTERS. 41 

may end here ; but the promise is, that hereafter he shall be satis- 
fied with life ; and as nothing less than eternal life will satisfy the 
souls in heaven, there they shall be satisfied. . . . 
Very affectionately yours, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Princeton, January 7th, 1840. 
Mr. Thomas W. Kerr — 

Dear Cousin : — . . . Our class is on the whole quite a pleasant 
one ; we have some men in it of superior talents, and I trust we have 
some of deep, devoted piety. At present there is quite an inter- 
esting state of feeling in the class, on the subject of personal duty 
to the heathen ; and several of the class are inquiring very seriously 
as to their own duty. There are twelve or fifteen in the Seminary 
who expect to be missionaries, and from present appearances we 
hope there will be eight or ten more soon ; yet this is not a suffi- 
cient proportion ! It does seem as if many of our theological stu- 
dents were unwilling to examine this subject. I would hope that 
such is not the case with the brethren in your Seminary, but dare 
hardly believe it. Oh that we all could feel more deeply on this 
subject, one that concerns so nearly our present and future hap- 
piness, the welfare of immortal souls, and the glory of God. 
Among those in the Seminary who have decided to be mission- 
aries, quite a pleasant, even a delightful feeling exists, and it is 
good to be with them. 

I should like dearly to have a good social chat with you, like 
some of those we used to have in Canonsburg. I look back on 
my intercourse with you and Elizabeth, as among my most pleas- 
ant times in Canonsburg ; and Miller's Run, and the old log 
school-house — church I mean — and the shady trees, and the acorns 
falling down instead of gourds. But I am at the end of my sheet. 
Farewell — pray for me. May the richest blessings of our Father 
in heaven rest on you both. 

Your affectionate cousin and Christian brother, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Princeton, February 21st, 1840. 
Mr. John M. Lowrie — 

Dear Cousin : — .... I was reading Turrettin's Theology this 
morning, about the tree of life, and the comparison he instituted 
between the tree of life and Christ was really most delightful. I 
could almost believe I was in heaven partaking of its fruits, nu- 
merous and varied and rich as they are ; sitting under its shade, 
and quaffing of the river of the water of life, that flows from the 
throne of God and the Lamb. Oh for that happy time when 
faith shall be turned to sight, and expectation to the full fruition 
of the holy joys of heaven. But alas, the language of mourning 



42 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

and sorrow suits me best. I know but in part, and I am sancti- 
fied but in part. I see but through a glass darkly, and eternal 
things fade away in the distance, while earthly trifles fill the mind. 
But it will not always be so. The Lord prepare us, both living 
and dying, to glorify his name ! 

.... With my present views of the holy ministry, I would 
rather spend four years than three in preparing directly for it, and 
certainly I think there will be no reason to regret having spent a 
session extra in reference to it. 

I find that in every place I have still the same evil heart, the 
same proneness to depart from God ; and I fear very much, lest 
after a while, the exercises of this place, admirably calculated as 
they appear to be for the cultivation of piety, should degenerate 
with me into a mere round of formal duties. Nothing but con- 
stant dependence on God, and constant renunciation of ourselves, 
can possibly secure us from danger. 

I am more and more convinced that the Bible, the word of God, 
should be the great study of the minister of God, and that all 
other studies should be subservient to this. Even theology is only 
valuable so far as it gives us clearer views of what the Bible 
teaches, and connected views of its great doctrines. With a com- 
prehensive and extended knowledge of the Bible as a whole, and 
in detached portions, we shall be workmen that need not be 
ashamed. 

Your affectionate cousin, W. M. Lowrie. 



Mr. John Lloyd — 

Dear Brother : — I never think of writing a letter on the 
Sabbath, except to some intimate Christian friend, or other person, 
with whom I wish to hold religious intercourse ; and it seems to 
me that it is as lawful to do this as to hold Christian conversation 
with a Christian brother for consolation, or with an impenitent per- 
son for his conviction. Do you remember the day of the month 
when we joined the church together? I have forgotten the pre- 
cise date, but it must have been about this time five years ago. 
Five years ! How little could we, or did we, then know of what 
should happen in the time that has already past ! How little did 
we know of the trials, and difficulties, and temptations we should 
have to encounter in our Christian course. I verily fear that, could 
I have foreseen these difficulties I should have greatly doubted, or 
but for the grace of God should have even despaired of ever strug- 
gling on for five years amidst them. Now I do not regret what is 
past. When one is once fairly through with any difficulty, he 
cannot find it in his heart to regret that he has encountered it. 
But to look forward, for five, or it may be fifty years, and to think 
of maintaining a constant contest with in-dwelling sin ! Surely 
it may well appal the stoutest heart. Yet, we may answer this 



LETTERS. 43 

fear in two ways. He that has led us, and fed us in the wilder- 
ness so long, will not now desert us ; and it argues great want of 
faith, and much ingratitude, to suspect that God's feelings toward 
us vary and change with the transient emotions of our own vari- 
able minds. And second, we go entirely beyond our sphere when 
we think of calculating how long we have to live, and how long 
we have to contend with Satan. " There is but a step between 
me and death." We know not that we shall see either fifty or five 
years ; nay, before this letter reaches its destination, one or other 
of us may have gone where there is no need of watchfulness and 
fightings. How foolish, then, to harass our minds with vain doubts 
and fears of what we cannot tell shall ever happen to us. Our 
duty is concerned only with the present time. '■' Secret things," 
except as revealed by prophecy, " belong unto the Lord our God," 
and he will direct them best. 

You have probably had these thoughts often in your mind, yet 
the knowledge that they have sometimes had a good effect on the 
mind of your Christian brother, may not be ungrateful to you. 

I have to mourn my exceeding coldness and deadness in religion ; 
while I have hardly ever had clearer views of religious things than 
for some time past, yet it has seemed to me that my affections have 
never been less vigorous than during the same period. I see so much 
with the intellectual eye, which the heart does not appear to be at 
all aware of, that I must lie very low before God. I often wonder 
why I am yet spared, and fear very greatly that I shall never be 
of any use in the ministry, so that often " my soul chooses death 
rather than life." True, this feeling of despondency is not right, 
and doubtless it often arises more from disappointed pride than 
from true humility. Oh, who can understand his ways ! — -" Lord, 
cleanse thou me from secret faults, and keep thy servant back 
from presumptuous sins." 

Did you ever meditate on Psalm xcii. 13 ? " Those that be 
planted in the house of the Lord shall flourish in the courts of our 
God." Does that mean that those who commence to live in God's 
service here, though it be but a commencement, a -planting, shall 
live forever, and flourish in the upper sanctuary above ? This is 
certainly true, but does this verse teach it ? We are but nursery 
plants here, soon to be taken to the Paradise of God, there to 
flourish evermore. How consoling is this to our weakness, and 
doubts and fears ! 

In the Sabbath School of which I have charge, there are some 
hopeful prospects, but alas ! few and faint. — The longer I live the 
more I see of my own deficiencies, and of my unfitness for the 
great work, — and my faith does not appear to grow in proportion 
to the difficulties that meet me. How hard it is to conquer self- 
righteousness, and trust fully and securely on Jesus Christ alone. 
Pray for me. 

Your truly affectionate brother in Christ, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



44 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

Princeton, April 30th, 1840. 
Mr. John Lloyd — 

Dear Brother : — .... Our session is very near its end, 
and I am heartily glad of it, for I am nearly worn down. I felt 
more completely sick yesterday than I have done for nearly five 
years ; and, though better to-day, I am still weak. This earthly 
house will be dissolved, certainly before many years, it may be, 
in a short time ; and then, what awaits me? I can look forward 
to death without apprehension, sure that Christ can and will save 
me, and feeling that there is none other who can ; yet I feel often 
afraid that so unprofitable a servant will not be received. Surely 
it would not be on account of my own exertions, were I ever so 
useful ; yet I fear lest I have been so unprofitable as to have given 
no proofs of being really a servant. But though often depressed 
on account of a prevailing sense of un worthiness and sin, and 
scarcely ever experiencing much joy, yet I do have peace, through 
our Lord Jesus Christ. 

I have been often of late at the bed-side of an aged Christian, 
who is gradually sinking away, like 

" The western evening light, 
Which melts in deepening gloom." 

I asked him yesterday morning, if he still enjoyed the peace of 
God ? " Oh, yes, constantly ; not a cloud is on my mind : I seem 
to have no will of my own, but am waiting the Lord's time." He 
seems, truly, ready to depart; and though his death will be a 
severe trial to his family, and to myself, yet it will be to him but 
going home. Were it not that, perhaps, there is something for 
me yet to do in this world, I could wish to be in his place. Yet 
not my will, but thine, O Lord, be done. 

Mr. Canfield, who has been to Western Africa, on an exploring 
mission, returned a few weeks since. He has been here for three 
or four days, most of the time in my room ; and I have had much 
conversation with him on that field. He is so well pleased that 
he intends returning as soon as the Board will send him, and is 
very anxious I should go as soon as I leave the Seminary. I cer- 
tainly feel very greatly inclined that way, though not disposed to 
do anything rashly in the matter. I must know before long what 
is my duty. What say you ? I wish we could have a full and 
free conversation on the subject, for a letter will not contain the 
tenth part of what I could say. I think the result of this mission 
has made it pretty certain that the way is open, and the prospects 
for life and usefulness fair ; and it is certainly one of the most 
interesting missionary fields in the world. At present I stand in 
this position : if I were to offer myself to the Board to-day, I would 
say, " Send me to any part of the world, and I will go. I do not, 
however, wish to go to our Western Indians, and would prefer 
Western Africa." The matter is coming home to me now, for it 



LETTERS. 45 

may be my duty to offer myself to the Board during- this year ; 
and I rejoice to be able to say, that I never felt more willing to do 
so. It is a wonderful thing that such poor creatures as we should 
be allowed to do anything for the honor of our God, and that he 
should condescend to accept our weak endeavors. 

. . . This is a lovely country in the evening. I am never weary 
of gazing on the vast plain from my window, and watching the 
variegated appearance it presents. The trees have now become 
quite green, and about sunset it presents a scene of surpassing 
beauty. I do not know whether other persons enjoy scenery as 
much as I do, but it has a most soothing effect on my mind ; and 
yet, gaze on it as I may, there is still a longing after something 
more — something higher, something holier, a longing after heaven, 
where we shall have no desires that cannot be satisfied. Such a 
view r as is now spread out before my window always reminds me 
of heaven ; and very often, of our walk over the hills, when the 
glory of heaven appeared to us both. 

Your brother in Christ, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



New York, July 27th, 1840. 
To a Sabbath School Scholar — 

My Dear William : — I am persuaded that the accompanying 
little book will not be an unacceptable memento of a former 
friend — of one who not only formerly was your friend, but who 
still feels in you an interest not easily to be expressed. The book 
has a quaint title, but it is written by somebody who knows much 
of the world, much of the heart, and much of his Bible. In this 
case, as in many others, you will find, that a plain title is like the 
old sign over the door of a rich merchant. It may not be very 
inviting on the outside, but when you enter you are charmed by 
the variety, the order, and the value of the merchandise ; and at 
every step your admiration for the occupant is increased. I need 
not ask you to read the book, for its own merits would soon in- 
duce you to do that ; and I feel sure that your friendship for me 
would incline you to do so. But I do ask you to ponder well the 
contents of some of its chapters, such as " The Warning," p. 150, 
and others. You will find them full of weighty matters, and, with 
the blessing of God, they may often direct you in your course 
through life, and make you wise unto salvation. 

It seems but a little while since we used to meet together in the 
Session-room, and enjoy our mutual interviews ; and yet two years 
have passed. It would be in vain for me to attempt to tell you 
how often my thoughts run back to that time, and the pleasure 
that the recollection of my intercourse with my beloved class af- 
fords me. It is a green spot in a journey, the most of which has 
been a pleasant one ; it is a flower of a brighter hue, and sweeter 
smell, in a garden where many " plants of desire" have grown ; 



46 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

and though at times a deep depression of spirits does come over 
me, yet even then the remembrance of my former acquaintance 
with you, is " the memory of joys that are past — pleasant and 
mournful to the soul." But the probability is, that we shall not 
often meet together again. Our lots are likely to be widely apart, 
our occupations to be very different. When we do meet, we shall 
probably meet but for a short due, soon to part. Let not our 
parting be forever. We must meet yet once again, and after that 
there will either be no more parting, or an eternal separation. 
My dear William, what would I not give to see you a follower of 
the meek and lowly Jesus ? — to see you acknowledging him as 
your Master ; adorning his cause by the talents you possess ; 
seeking not your own glory, but his who made you ; pleasing not 
yourself, but him who has done so much for you. Let me entreat 
you to make your peace with God, through Jesus Christ. 

I am sorry for your present indisposition, but perhaps it is sent 
in mercy, to remind you that you are here but for a season, and 
to excite you to come to Him now, and find salvation. Such is 
God's usual object in sending affliction of any kind, and though 
for the present it may seem " not joyous but grievous, yet after- 
wards it yieldeth the peaceable fruits of righteousness to them 
that are exercised thereby." I need hardly tell you why it is so 
important that you should seek religion now. You know that 
this is the best time; that delays are t dangerous ; that mercy, 
which is now waiting, may not always wait ; that the longer you 
continue impenitent, the more sinful you become, and the less 
disposed to turn to religion. You know that religion is not a 
gloomy thing, for what can there be in religion to make a man 
sad ? Surely not that God is reconciled to him, not that his sins 
are pardoned, and that he has the hope of heaven. Religion has 
its sorrows, but the sorrows of the world are far greater, and far 
more lasting. Religion has its joys, which the world knows not — 
joys more lasting than time, more precious than earth's jewels. 
Peace with God, peace in the heart, the joy of holiness and con- 
formity to God, the expectation of perfect holiness hereafter, — ' 
these are joys that will remain with their possessor in sickness 
as well as in health, in poverty as well as in riches, in death 
as well as in life, in the convulsions of nature, when the heavens 
are dissolved, and the elements melt with fervent heat, as well as 
in the quiet moments of retirement, and the calm solitudes of 
holy meditation. 

I have written to you freely, because I wished to do you good, 
and because I hope your friendship for me will induce you to 
receive with kindness a few words of affectionate counsel. When 
I have gone far hence to the Gentiles, may I not hope still to live 
in your memory, — and may I not trust that my intercourse with 
you has been both pleasant and profitable ? Farewell — may the 
God of all grace bless you, for Christ's sake. 

Yours most truly, W. M. Lowrie. 



LETTERS. 47 



New York, July 27th, 1840. 
To a Sabbath School Scholar — 

My Dear Charles : — Accompanying this, I send you a small 
book, as a memento of myself, — not that I fear you will soon, if 
ever, forget the pleasant times of other years, when as teacher and 
scholar we met together; — but because the sight of anything that 
once belonged to an absent friend, will easily recall him to mind, 
and often awaken associations that would otherwise have slept in 
the bosom. And what associations will the sight of anything 
that recalls me to your recollection, awaken? Our intercourse 
has been principally in the Sabbath School. It was short, but it 
was pleasant. I believe our affection and friendship for each 
other was mutual, and, at the present time, few things afford me 
more pleasure than to remember the hours spent in the corner of 
the Session-room, where, with my class around me, we conversed 
on the revelation made by a gracious God to his sinful and lost 
creatures. And now, in my occasional visits to this place, few 
occurrences afford me more gratification than to meet with any 
of my former class, and converse with them of other days. In 
the moments of gloom and despondency, which at times cloud my 
mind, and occasion sorrow such as those who have never felt what 
melancholy is can scarcely conceive, there* are few things* that can 
more speedily cheer my mind, and reassure me that there are some 
who care for me, than to dwell on the seasons spent in the Chris- 
topher street Sabbath School. The pleasure I myself feel, in rec- 
ollecting these things, and in meeting with you, assures me that 
you feel, to some extent at least, the same pleasure ; for it is com- 
monly true that where affection exists at all, it is mutual. " As 
in water face answereth to face, so the heart of man to man." 
Such being the interest, then, that I feel in you, you will not won- 
der that I ask, " what associations will anything that recalls me 
to your recollection awaken?" nor to hear that often, when others 
around me are slumbering, my thoughts revert to each one of my 
class individually, and by name ; and I think — what will become 
of this one, and of that one ? Shall I ever meet with them in 
this world? What influence do the instructions they received 
from me, exert upon their hearts ? What deep impressions have 
they produced ? And when we meet at the last great day, shall 
we stand at the right hand of our glorious Judge? Nor will it 
surprise you to hear that often I lift up the silent, and the uttered 
prayer, for my " beloved scholars" in general, and for each one by 
name, that they may be led by a gracious hand, that they may 
be kept from the world's temptations, that the instructions they 
formerly received, and are now receiving, may be as the good seed 
sown in good ground, and producing fruit unto eternal life. 

I have been writing of myself, and of my own feelings, but it 
was to show you the place you hold in my heart, and to assure 
you that no changes of place, no length of time, can alter the in- 



48 MEMOIR OF "WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

terest I feel in your welfare, temporal and spiritual. Now, my 
dear Charles, shall my fondest anticipations concerning you be 
realized, or have I been cherishing only the deceitful phantoms 
of a mistaken fancy? Shall my prayers, poor and imperfect, but 
sincere, be answered? Shall my efforts for your good be ever 
crowned with success ? But I forget myself. It is not on this 
ground that I would urge on you the necessity of seeking religion, 
and that now. No, the reasons are stronger, the motives are 
higher. It is because you are an immortal creature ; because by 
nature you are a child of wrath ; because, if your existence is to 
be a blessing to you, you must be born again, otherwise it had 
been better for you never to have been born ; because, though in 
yourself lost, guilty and helpless, there is yet hope, for the Son of 
God became man to seek and save them that are lost ; because 
he is ready and able to save to the uttermost, if you will believe 
on him ; because he has a right to you ; because he calls you ; 
because the Spirit strives with you ; and because if you come now, 
you may find that yet there is room, that salvation is yours ; but if 
you delay, the Spirit may be grieved, and take his departure, and 
then farewell hope, farewell happiness, farewell God and heaven, 
Christ, and his love ; and then — but I cannot suffer myself to 
conceive the dreadful alternative when these are lost. Oh, flee 
from the wrath to come. " There is now no condemnation to 
them that are in Christ Jesus," and you may be in him if you 
will. " Ye would not come unto me that ye might have life," is 
the dreadful charge against those in Christian lands who receive 
not eternal life. Oh, that you would lay these things to heart. 
If you are laboring and heavy-laden, Christ will give you rest. 
He is an all-sufficient, ever-present Saviour ; and amidst gloom 
and sickness, sorrow and fear, he can deliver and protect you, — 
can bless and save you. You need just such a Saviour, and he 
can fill all the desires of your heart. 

I know that at times you must feel an aching void within you, 
a desire after something you have never yet attained, a longing 
after something that will fill the mind. You can find it nowhere 
but in Christ. He is altogether lovely, and the more you know 
of him the more you will admire him. 

Let me recommend to you one thing. I feel persuaded that if 
you attempt it, and persevere in it — with prayer for his blessing 
— you will experience great benefit, and will ever rejoice that 
you attempted it. It is — at least once every week, I wish you 
would do it daily — that you take some action of our Saviour, and 
consider it carefully ; see what traits of character it exhibits, why 
it was performed, and what it teaches ; or, take any one of his say- 
ings, and think on it for some tine. I would not say how long, 
judge of that for yourself ; but do not stop thinking upon it too 
soon. Take, for instance, the birth of Christ, Luke ii. 7 ; his 
weeping over Jerusalem, Luke xix. 41 ; any of his miracles : or 
his sayings, such as John iii. 36 ; iv. 14 ; Mark iv. 22, &c. I can 



LETTERS. 49 

tell you, from my own experience, that few things are more profit- 
able. 

But it is time for me to stop. Let me entreat again your serious 
consideration of these things. If you ever feel disposed to write 
to me, it will afford me great pleasure to hear from you, and to 
answer your letters. I hope to see you yet exerting such an influ- 
ence, and commanding such respect as your talents entitle you to 
expect. But seek first the kingdom of God, and his righteousness 
-and all these things shall be added unto you, 
Yours most truly, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Princeton, August 22d, 1840. 
My Dear Mother — 

.... The time runs too rapidly for me, and in five weeks more 
the session will close. We are but strangers and sojourners here, 
soon to go hence. I have been very much struck in reading the 
book of Genesis lately, to find how very often Abraham, Isaac, 
and Jacob, with all their wealth and dependents, still speak of 
themselves as strangers, sojourners and pilgrims. Could we only 
realize that "here we have no abiding city," the trials and vexa- 
tions and disappointments that continually befall us would exert 
but little influence, and would only induce us, like the traveller, to 
hasten forward on our journey. And though it be often a painful 
journey, it is one in which we have continual cause to make men- 
tion of the loving-kindness of the Lord, who accompanies us, who 
guides us, who leads us often by the still waters, and causes us to 
lie down in the green pastures. He will be our guide unto death, 
and then will not forsake us, " for this God is our God forever and 
ever." So may it prove to us all. 

Have you ever read Mrs. Hawkes' memoirs ? I find them very 
instructive, opening up fountains of deep Christian experience, and 
displaying many of the deep things of religion. She was a wo- 
man of strong mind, sincere piety, great kindness of heart, and 
though often in the former part of her life troubled with melan- 
choly, yet afterwards uncommonly cheerful in the midst of severe 
sufferings. The best books of human composition require you to 
read many pages to obtain any complete view of a person's char- 
acter ; but in the Bible, you will find characters drawn most com- 
pletely in a single sentence. You will learn more of their dispo- 
sition, &c.j from an apparently trivial action or expression there 
recorded, than from the most labored description in other books. 

Why is this ? Truly the law of the Lord is perfect 

Yours very truly, 

W. M. Lowrie, 
4 



50 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

Princeton, September 3d, 1840. 
Mr. John Lloyd — 

My Dear Brother : — .... At the time I received your letter 
I was not very well, and shortly afterwards went home and spent 
a week there. I was at that time received under the care of the 
Second Presbytery of New York, and had my pieces assigned me. 
My Latin piece is, "An Christus pro electis solum mortuus sit?" 
on which I have written an essay, and translated it into something 
that professes to be Latin, and is so long that it covers five foolscap 
pages. This, with many and various other duties, has kept me 
very busy for several weeks past. My health is now very good, 
and I hope, Deo volente, to be licensed next April, and ordained 
soon after. 

.... I have just been examining a little insect on my window, 
and comparing its body with those of other insects and with my 
own. It is wonderfully different from them in shape, size, mate- 
rials, uses, and objects. It has some members I do not possess, 
and wants others granted to me. It has life, though not an inch 
in length, and it appears to enjoy its existence. It is but one of 
an infinitely numerous class of beings, each species of which is so 
different from every other, that we can hardly conceive of them as 
possessing any qualities in common. Yet they have some, for 
they all live, they all enjoy life, and they were all made by one 
great and glorious Being. How condescending must He be, who 
has so curiously wrought their little frames. How wise, thus to 
fashion their bodies. How kind, thus to grant them life and hap- 
piness. How infinite in knowledge to know all their actions, to 
direct and govern all their motions, to foresee and provide for all 
their wants. Will He look with indifference on men? Will He 
neglect to attend to them when they lift their eyes to Him, and 
cry Abba, Father? Surely not. 

But how humbling is the thought, that with all our boasted wis- 
dom and vaunted power, we cannot understand the hidden mys- 
teries of these little insects, nor frame another like them. But 
then it is a glorious truth, that hereafter we shall know all we 
wish to know ; and our knowledge, instead of puffing us up, will 
humble us, and cause us to love our God and Saviour more. And 
even now, we may look on these little living things, and say, " My 
Father made them all." I thank thee, little fly ; the sight of thee 
has filled my soul with pleasant thoughts ; and I write them here 
that my friend may share them with me 

Farewell. — The Lord be with you and bless you. 

W. M. Lowrie. 

Princeton, November 16th, 1840. 
My Dear Mother — 

Your letter from the distant south, came to me like good news 
from a far country. You left New York September 30th, I left it 



LETTERS. 51 

the next day, and had a pleasant journey to Philadelphia, Canons- 
burg, Pittsburg, and Butler, going and returning, a thousand miles 
of travel. I spent a most pleasant Sabbath with the church at Mil- 
ler's Run, where my old Sunday School is. At Pittsburg the 
Synod was in session, and, both in that city and in Butler, I saw 
and spoke to many dear friends. For particulars, I refer you to 
the inclosed. On the 5th of November I arrived at my old room 
in Princeton, prepared to say with gratitude, Hitherto the Lord has 
helped and blessed me. 

I have now got pretty fairly settled down to study. This is my 
last session ; I can scarcely realize that so short a time as six 
months will finish my theological course. It would not take much 
to induce me to begin it again. At present, other duties seem to 
call me hence ; but who is sufficient for these things 1 

I shall probably offer myself to the Board as a missionary soon, 
unless something of which I know nothing, should occur to pre- 
vent. Don't stay so long in the south, that you cannot be back 
in time to see me off. 

Yours most truly, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Princeton, December 10th, 1840. 
To the Executive Committee of the Board of Foreign 
Missions of the Presbyterian Church — 

It has been my wish and intention for several years to spend 
my life as a missionary to the heathen. Believing that it is the 
duty of the Church in her organized capacity to prosecute the 
work of missions, I offer myself to you as a candidate for that 
work ; and if accepted, shall hold myself in readiness to enter on 
it shortly after the close of the present session of the Theological 
Seminary. 

I am now in my twenty-second year, and have been a professor 
of religion for nearly six years. The work of missions has always 
appeared to me to be identical with that of the ministry, requiring 
the same talents and preparation, and demanding that those who 
engage in it should be actuated by the same motives which influ- 
ence those who enter on the ministry at home. The considera- 
tions which have influenced me to believe I ought to enter some 
foreign field, are, a desire for some such field, considered as a means 
of being more useful, and the fact, that while comparatively a 
large number are willing to enter the ministry at home, few will 
go abroad. The call from heathen lands is loud. It must be 
answered, and knowing no particular reason why I should settle 
in this country, I feel prepared, with humility, and yet with cheer- 
fulness, to say, " Here am I, Lord, send me." In addition to this, 
the leadings of Providence, ever since I first joined the church, 
and particularly since I entered this Seminary, have seemed to 
direct my course far hence to the Gentiles. 



52 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

In making you this offer of my services, I shall leave it to the 
Committee to decide on my field of labor. My own preferences 
however are strongly towards "Western Africa, and I am perfectly 
willing to take on myself the responsibility of going to that field. 
It has been before my mind distinctly for two years and a half, 
and before either of your present missionaries to that field had de- 
cided to go there. Still, if it be probable that my usefulness would 
be greater elsewhere, I shall willingly go to any other field, ^iy 
health is not robust, yet commonly it is good. I believe myself to 
be more in danger of pulmonary diseases than of any other, but 
should probably be less liable to them in a more southern climate 
than this. 

Praying that the Lord would bless and prosper the cause of 
missions, and all those engaged either at home or abroad in 
furthering it, 

I remain with Christian respect and esteem, Yours, &c, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Princeton, January 2d, 1841. 
Mr. John Lloyd — 

Dear John : — Your letter of Dec. 6th, arrived here fifteen days 
after date, but though long on the road was a very welcome guest, 
and has been interrogated more than once as to the news and 
state of matters and things with an old and dearly-beloved friend. 
I cannot tell you how much I prize your friendship, nor how I 
value your letters; but I often wonder how you can speak of me 
in such glowing terms, when conscious to myself that such lan- 
guage is so poorly deserved. I can attribute it only to the uniting 
power of our common faith, and the grace of our common Lord, 
who seems to have fitted us so well for each other, to be helpers 
of each other's joy, and sympathizers in each other's sorrows. 
After having been so intimately united in College, is it possible 
that we shall never meet again 1 You will perhaps wonder at 
me if I tell you that within the last three months I have been 
within one mile of you without seeing you — yet it was so. I 
spent about three weeks in Pittsburg, Butler, and Canonsburg in 
October, passing through Greensburgh. To my very great disap- 
pointment, however, you had, just before I got in, gone to your 
academy, and there was not time to send for you while the stage 
stopped. I had a great wish to remain a day, but could not, and 
with a heavy heart I left without seeing you. I hoped to have 
found you here, but the Lord has seen fit to order it otherwise. 
When shall we in&ii again? 

My present plans are, to be licensed in April, — spend the sum- 
mer preaching, either in New York or Pennsylvania, — probably, 
though not yet decided, to spend another year in the Seminary, 
and go out to Africa in 1842. I am now under the care of the 
Missionary Board, but there is very little probability of my being 



eent off under a year, or a year and a half. Nor am I, considering 
my age and qualifications, very anxious to go sooner, though per- 
fectly willing to go this next summer, if necessary. 

I offered myself to the Board some three weeks since, and ex- 
pressed a decided preference for Africa as my field. I may be in 
error, but it seems to me that the danger from the climate is very 
greatly overrated, and if an entrance into the interior could be ef- 
fected, which some English Baptist missionaries are now trying to 
do, the probability is that we could live very well. The country 
is populous. We owe them a deep debt. Their superstitions are 
old, foolish, and feeble. They have a reverence for white men, and 
would probably be willing to receive instruction. There is a glori- 
ous promise that " Ethiopia shall soon stretch forth her hands unto 
God." Is not the field white to the harvest — where are the 
reapers 1 . . . 

The Lord bless thee, and keep thee, my brother. 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Princeton, January 2d, 1841. 
Mr. John 0. Proctor — 

Dear Brother : — ... It is very humiliating to our pride, to find 
how little knowledge we can acquire, after our utmost and perse- 
vering efforts. It seems but like a drop in the bucket compared 
with the vast amount of knowledge still unexplored, and of whose 
very existence oftentimes we are wholly ignorant. What a vast 
collection of authors on every subject ! How much deep learning, 
profound with eloquence and piety, is treasured up in the works of 
other days, and yet how little of it all can we possibly know ! I 
feel at times disposed to give up in despair. Life seems too short 
to learn even all that a minister needs to know, leaving entirely 
untouched what he would wish to understand, but is not compelled 
to attend to. Looking at the ministry only so far as mere intel- 
lectual qualifications are concerned, who is sufficient for it ? And 
yet this is a minor topic. To understand and feel the truths of the 
Bible ; to experience deeply the work of the Spirit ; to humble our- 
selves before God, and submit our proud hearts implicitly to his 
teaching ; to become fools for Christ's sake, that we may be wise ; 
to confide ourselves in Christ's hands, and take him for our all-in- 
all, and to live daily near unto him, and growing in conformity to 
him — Hoc opus, hie labor est. It seems to me, that the nearer 
I get to the office of the ministry, the less am I prepared for it, 
either physically, mentally, or spiritually. Blessed be God for his 
promise, " My grace is sufficient for thee." When we are weak, 
then we are strong. Pray for me. I shall look for a letter from 
you soon. 

Yours, in the bonds of Christian affection, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



54 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE 

Princeton, January 26th. 1841. 
My Dear Mother — 

. . . How checkered and changing is the condition of our family, 
— some here, some there ; we meet together for a short time, and 
then we part. We are drawn up, as it were, from the sea of life, 
and, like scattered drops of rain, we fall, some nearer, and some 
further off; sometimes so close that we run together, at other 
times scattered over wide lands. O that, like the rain, we may 
refresh and fertilize every spot we touch, and be the means of mak- 
ing even " the wilderness to bud and blossom like the rose." Like 
the drops of rain too, we are but for a moment ; we are changed 
into vapor that soon vanisheth away. Even such is our rife — 
" like the foam on the water," we are cut off. So be it, — the num- 
ber of our months is with God, and our days are determined. He 
knoweth what is best for us. . . . 

Yours affectionately, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Bedford, N. Y, May 26th, 1841. 
My Dear Mother— 

I have spent the week here very pleasantly. On the Sabbath I 
preached twice, and attended a funeral, five miles off. These ex- 
ercises wearied me very much. 

I have just had one of the longest jaunts among the rocks I 
have had for some time. After ascending a number of small hil- 
locks, each higher than the preceding, and each crowned with sev- 
eral large rocks, I reached the top of the highest hill. The pros- 
pect was beautiful, and on several sides extensive. Whilst resting, 
I began to observe more minutely the top of the hill. Several 
large rocks shot up obliquely from beneath the ground ; a few 
moderate-sized trees were growing among them ; and 1 found sev- 
eral little delicate flowers — a violet, a little white flower, and va- 
rious kinds of grasses. What a contrast between the everlasting 
rocks and the fading flowers, and yet both were found side by side. 
I could not help thinking of the way in which the Bible sometimes 
groups together the grandest, and at the same time the most lovely 
of God's attributes ; for example — 

"Thy kingdom is an everlasting kingdom, and thy dominion 
endureth throughout all generations. The Lord upholdeth all that 
fall, and raiseth up all that be bowed down." — Psalm cxlv. 13, 14. 

So admirably do the book of nature and the book of revelation 
agree, when they speak (i our heavenly Father. Pursuing my 
observations farther, I found several busy ants tugging away at 
their several loads, a little wood spider, and several delicately 
formed little flies, all busy, and all apparently happy. Yet though 
so small, God — the same God that founded the hills, and hardened 
the rocks — was watching over them, and supplying their wants. 



I admired the wisdom and goodness displayed in everything there, 
and with, I trust, a good deal of the spirit of a true worshipper, I 
knelt down on the hill-top to offer praises and prayers to him, 
whom the heaven of heavens cannot contain, and who yet dwells 
in the humble and the contrite heart. Such seasons are like fore- 
tastes of heaven. I may never revisit that solitary place, yet I 

hope often to remember it 

Yours most affectionately, W. M. Lowrie. 



Detroit, June 24th, 1841. 
Dear Mother — 

After leaving New York, the usual incidents of travel brought 
me to Buffalo at 7 o'clock, p. m., on Saturday. I found a hearty 
welcome at the Rev. J. C. Lord's, where I spent the Sabbath, and 
preached for him, and on Monday took the steamboat for Detroit, 
where I arrived on Wednesday morning. I was most kindly 
received by R. Stuart, Esq., and his lady. This seems to be a 
very pleasant city ; the upper part of Jefferson Avenue is really 
beautiful. Roses are out in full bloom, and have been out for sev- 
eral days. I went over to the Canada shore yesterday, and strolled 
up the river two or three miles. I saw a red-coated sentinel patrol- 
ling up and down the wharf, and on asking an American how long 
he had been there, I received for an answer, — " Three years." 
" What was he doing ?" ' : Keeping the dogs off the ferry-boat." 

In this city a great many people talk French, and they have a 
French Roman Catholic church. I heard a most excellent prac- 
tical discourse last evening by Bishop McCoskrey. It made me 
feel that though I was a stranger here, yet there were those here 
whom I might hope to meet in a better world, where we shall 
know perfectly. 

I find doing nothing is hard work, and steamboat travelling is 
not what some think it is. However, a little shaking in the 
Michigan stages, on their primitive railroads, and perhaps on horse- 
back, may be of service to health. I can hardly believe that I am 
more than six hundred miles away from home. I often think, 
and not unpleasantly, of the Scriptural phrase, " Strangers and 
pilgrims." There is a great deal of meaning and beauty in the 
verse — 

" While through this changing world we roam, 
From infancy to age — 
Heaven is the Christian pilgrim's home, 
His rest at every stage." 

I could not help thinking, as we came up the lake, that we pass 
through life, like a boat over the waters ; and that the things 
which now occupy our attention, though, like the waves, they 
may amuse us for a moment, are yet, like the waves, soon to 
change, and pass away. . . . 

Love to all. W. M. Lowrie. 



56 



MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 



Ogdensburgh, July 23d, 1841. 
My Dear Father — 

I arrived in this place about, a week ago, and though Mr. Savage 
was absent, Mrs. Savage, and the members of the congregation, 
received me very cordially. Mr. Savage returned a day or two 
since, and seems to be very glad that I have come. 

There are a good many churches in Canada in correspondence 
with our church, not one of which, as far as I can learn, is doing 
anything for foreign missions. It might not be considered proper 
for us to do anything among them at present, when so many of 
our own churches need to be roused up ; and yet it would be for 
their own good, if they could be induced to take some action on 
the subject. Most of them are small and weak, and at present a 
good deal of prejudice against ministers from the United States is 
said to prevail among them. If it be not expedient for our Board 
to do anything among them, would it not be at least worth while 
for the General Assembly, in their next letter, to suggest to them 
the importance of attention to our Lord's last commands? I hope 
to see one or two of their ministers, before leaving this part of the 
country, and learn some farther particulars respecting them. A 
few of them contribute to the American Tract, and I think also 
to the American Bible Societies. Much love to all. 
I remain, your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ogdensburgh, July 31st, 1841. 
My Dear Father — 

I have just received yours of July 28th, and as it was the first 
news I had from home, it was a very agreeable visitor. I have 
made appointments to preach to-morrow at Morristown, and at 
the second church of Oswegatchie, and the Sabbath following at 
Evans' Mills, so that I shall not be able to leave for home until the 
9th or 10th of August. I hope, however, to be home about this 
day two weeks. Thus far my visit has been very pleasant, and 
profitable to myself at least, if not to others. The people have 
everywhere received me cordially, and seemed quite gratified at, 
my coming. 

In regard to the object for which Mr. Orr wishes to see me, I 
suppose I know what it is, and am half inclined to think that it 
can be settled as well in my absence as otherwise. My mind was 
turned very strongly to Africa three years since, and the consid- 
erations that induced me to wish to go there were — that very few 
are willing to labor in that field, and that my talents seem to fit 
me peculiarly for such a people as the Africans are. I like to deal 
with an ignorant and yet affectionate people, who are not self- 
conceited. My acquirements, preparations, &c, seem to qualify 
me for that field. Another consideration that weighs a good deal 



LETTERS. 57 

with me is, that every one expects that I shall go to Africa; It is 
not vanity that induces me to believe, that both Canfield and 
Alward will be greatly disappointed should I go to any other field ; 
and I fear that many of those who know what my intention has 
been, will attribute any change in my destination to fear of the 
climate. For myself, I should not care about any such suspicions ; 
but the effect on others may be unpleasant, as it may induce some 
who have thought of going to Africa to hesitate. 

There is still another consideration of a personal nature. The 
mission to Africa is considered rather a dangerous experiment, and 
if I should now decide to go elsewhere, would it not give some 
captious spirits the opportunity of saying, that the Corresponding 
Secretary was willing to let others go there, but not to let his own 
son expose himself? These considerations make me unwilling, 
with my present views, to take on myself the responsibility of de- 
termining to go to any other country. If the Executive Commit- 
tee, however, think my services are more needed in China than 
in Africa, and that, all things considered, I will be more useful in 
the former place ; then I have nothing further to say, but will 
cheerfully submit to their decision ; and shall hold myself in 
readiness to go this fall, if necessary. I shall, in that case, wish 
to have it stated in the Chronicle, that " my preference was for 
Western Africa, but the wants of the China mission being such as 
to induce the Executive Committee to change my destination, I 
consented," &c. Such a statement, I think, would not be im- 
proper, while it would shield me from the charge of " lightness," 
or wishing to avoid an exposed station. 

This letter you may consider either as addressed to yourself per- 
sonally, or to the Executive Committee. Mr. Orr's statements 
may perhaps induce me to take some other course than the one 
above mentioned, but at present, I do not see that I can do other- 
wise. 

Monday, August 2d. I preached yesterday morning at Morris- 
town, and in the afternoon at Mr. Rodgers'. The people seemed 
much interested in both places. I expect to be at Mr. Savage's 
Monthly Concert this evening, and to start on Wednesday or Thurs- 
day for Evans' Mills. I hope to be at home by Wednesday or 
Thursday of next week. Mr. Savage desires his kind regard to 
you. Much love to all at home. 

I remain, your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Steamboat St. Lawrence, Lake Ontario, July 13th. 
Dear Mother — 

When riding in the wild woods of Michigan, I found so many 
ideas coming up, that I concluded to write you a good long letter. 
I have it all to write yet, and the steamboat shakes so, that I 
write like Mr. Hopkins in the Declaration of Independence. 



58 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

From Detroit by railroad to Ann Arbor, it is a dreary country 
part of the way, heavy timber and thick underbrush, and any 
quantity of marshes. I took the opposition stage to Jacksonville. 
The driver was a harum-scarem creature, full of opposition, drink- 
ing and swearing constantly. I reached Marshall on Saturday 
morning, and was most kindly received by Mr. and Mrs. Wells. On 
Sabbath I preached twice to the Congregational church in Marshall, 
which is at present without a pastor. Having hired a horse, I left 
on Tuesday morning. The first part of my ride to Belone, four- 
teen miles, was pleasant enough. I passed a great many little 
lakes, and crossed a great many marshes, on log bridges. These 
are formed by laying together round logs from three to twelve 
inches diameter. People may laugh at these bridges, but after 
they have been swamped as I was, they will think better of them. 
In the afternoon the road became worse, and the country was very 
heavily timbered, and in one place for six miles I saw neither a 
house nor a clearing. I reached Vermontville before sunset. 
This village contains about two hundred persons, mostly from 
Vermont. It is perhaps the most religious place in the Union. 
Every family but one has family prayers. 

Next day I was off early ; twenty miles were passed without 
finding an inhabitant. At first the trees had been cut down tow- 
ards making the road, but were not removed, and the path 
wound off into the woods to avoid them. I tried to follow it, but 
soon my horse began to sink in the soft ground, and then jumped 
and floundered about, sinking deeper at every step. I jumped off, 
and found I had lost the path. After exploring a little, and lead- 
ing my horse, I found the path again. I soon came to a place 
grown over with a broad-leaved weed, and lost the path again. 
Pretty soon the ground became soft and wet, with large trees lying 
in every direction. I jumped off again to make a further explora- 
tion. But the further I went the more impassable it was, and, in 
utter despair of finding any path there, I turned back. 

What was I to do ? I had come six miles without seeing a 
human being, and had fourteen miles to go before I would come 
to a house. I was in the middle of a large swamp, and no path. 
It was very warm, and no air was stirring through that mighty 
forest. Its loneliness seemed to have frightened away the very 
birds, for I saw none, nor heard any, except the rough, unpleasant 
notes of the blue jay. I went back half a mile, and found the 
path had turned to the right to avoid the swamp. Four miles 
further I met a man with his rifle. I kept on, mile after mile, 
and again and again losing the path, as it turned off to avoid the 
swamps. Occasionally I saw the tracks of some one that had 
passed the same way, and these were almost the only evidence I 
had that I was in the right way, for road there was none, not even 
was the underbrush cut away. 

While carefully looking for these foot-prints, and rejoicing when 
I saw them, I was reminded of the saying of one of the old English 



LETTERS. 59 

divines — " Let no Christian, however clear his hopes, despise the 
least sign of grace ; the time may come when he would give 
worlds for the least evidence that he is a child of God, and in the 
road to heaven." Other thoughts of the same kind passed through 
my mind. Sometimes when the road wound between two swamps, 
I thought of Christian in the valley of the shadow of death. Then 
again, when I was carefully looking to find the path, I thought how 
anxiously should the Christian seek to be in the path of duty, — if 
he varies from it he may be lost irrevocably ; he may sink in the 
mire, be lost among the thorns and briers, or wander in the wilder- 
ness. — I came at last to a small cabin eight miles from Ionia, and 
reached that place before the sun went down, fully determined 
that I would return some other way. 

I found next day, at the land office, that my journey had been 
for nothing. The land on which the Chippewa Mission is placed 
had been advertised by the government, but the sale had been in- 
definitely postponed. I left Ionia July 1st, and took the road on 
the north side of Grand river. The country was slightly undulat- 
ing; no underbrush; the trees high, and far apart. I crossed 
Grand and Flat rivers, both beautiful streams, and came at night 
to the Widow Kent's, thirty-two miles. Next day the road lay 
through a beautiful country, though thinly inhabited, and with a 
profusion of flowers, some of which were very beautiful. I saw 

whole fields quite blue with the " four-o'clocks," which R 

watches so carefully in your little garden. Then there were Avild 
roses, red lilies, sweet-williams, yellow marigolds, wild peas, and 
many others, red, blue, and white, which I had never seen before. 
Some were very beautiful, especially the mocassin flower. It is a 
large lady's slipper ; the flower is red and white, and has a very 
fine appearance. All this was in the wilderness. 

" Full many a flower is born to blush unseen, 
And waste its sweetness on the desert air." 

But are they unseen ? Is their sweetness roasted ? Would this 
be consistent with wisdom in that glorious Being who makes nothing 
in vain ? Yet of what use are they } Well, they are the houses of 
a great many insects. It is said that several different kinds live 
in every plant. Then, their seeds are food for the little birds. 
Who can tell us, too, what effect their perfumes have upon the 
winds that sweep over these solitudes, and visit, in all their fresh- 
ness and healthful influences, the abodes of men 1 Then, how 
do we know but that these wild woods are the school-houses of 
other beings, who come down and learn lessons from the flowers 
as they spring up in their beauty, and open towards the pure light 
of heaven ? It is a very contracted view of things to suppose that 
the productions of the earth are intended only for man, and are 
lost if he does not use them. But there is another thought of far 
more weight — these flowers are grateful to God himself; he "de- 
lights in the work of his hands." What skill, and wisdom, and 



60 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

goodness, are displayed in these little flowers ! He " clothes the 
lilies of the field." Surely, if God delights in these works of his 
hands, they were not made in vain — their beauty is not unseen — 
their sweetness is not wasted. 

On — on I went — saw some Indians, some of them in tents. In 
some places the plough was at its work, and I saw four, and at ano- 
ther time, seven yoke of oxen to a single plough. I thought of 
Elisha, the son of Shaphat, ploughing with twelve yoke of oxen, 
and he with the twelfth. What was he doing with so many? 
Was he breaking up new land in Palestine? Or had he twelve 
ploughs? I reached Marshall at noon, July 3d, and next day at- 
tended their Sabbath School celebration. 

The following Sabbath I spent in Buffalo, and on Monday I 
started off for the Falls of Niagara, determined that this time I 
would see -both sides. I spent several hours on the Canada side, 
and got my face wet with the spray on Table Rock, but did not 
feel inclined to go under the Horse-Shoe fall. I soon began to 
drink in the spirit of the place, and to feel my soul expanding 
with the emotions it was so well fitted to produce. I will not in- 
flict a description on you for several very good reasons. I spent 
the night and the next day till 2 o'clock p. m., on the American 
side. Every step about the falls was as familiar as if I had tra- 
versed them but yesterday, and yet it was seven years since our 
hasty visit to the place. The little bridge on the Terrapin rocks, 
where we all sat down, and looked over into the boiling abyss, is 
broken down. You will recollect how we all admired that mag- 
nificent scene. I felt melancholy almost all the time. Where 
were those with whom I had formerly walked over these scenes ? 
Two of them were already in their graves. I saw many others 
there, like our party was seven years ago — husbands and their 
wives, — parents and their children, — brothers and their sisters. 
As we did then, they seemed to enjoy their visit the more from 
the society of each other. But I was now alone, — I knew no one, 
and scarcely spoke to any one. " A stranger and a pilgrim," my 
thoughts turned to our everlasting home. Here I was surrounded 
with the evidences of the power and glory of God. The dashing, 
roaring waters ; the foam and the silver bubbles that floated on 
the waves ; the bright rainbow that played in quietness over the 
scene ; the old trees on the island ; and the little flowers that grew 
out of the fissures of the everlasting rocks — each seemed to have 
a tongue to speak the praises of the great Creator. My heart was 
full ; and as I felt almost overpowered by the solemnly joyful 
feelings of my soul, I could not but ask — will there be such scenes 
as these in heaven ? The only answer I could give was, if not, 
there will be that which will produce the same emotions that these 
do, in a more enrapturing degree. We can know the character 
of God only in his word and in his works, for himself we cannot 
see. Here we learn his power, wisdom, and goodness, by such 
sights as these. In heaven we shall know far more of these same 



LETTERS. 61 

attributes. What the works which shall declare those attributes 
shall be, we may not presume to say. But if they are not such as 
we see on earth, they will be so much more glorious that we shall 
not wish again to see these mighty displays of his power. 

From the falls I went to Ogdensburgh, and was most kindly 
received by the Rev. Mr. Savage and his lady. I remained in 
this neighborhood from the 20th of July till the 3d of August, 
and preached in a number of the churches. Some of our meet- 
ings were seasons of deep interest, and I formed acquaintances 
which I will remember while I live. With Mr. and Mrs. Savage 
and their children, I could not but feel at home. I saw a good 
deal of that dear patriarch, the Rev. Mr. Rogers, and preached for 
him several times. I enjoyed our intercourse very much, and I 
trust profited by the privilege of being with him. And when 
speaking of the Saviour he said : " Whenever the Bible speaks of 
Christ by way of metaphor, it is always with some term expres- 
sive of divine excellencies. If he is called a tree, then it is the 
tree of life. If he is called a vine, then it is the true vine. If he 
is called a shepherd, then it is the good shepherd. If he is called 
a plant, then it is the plant of renown." The remarks may not 
be new to you, but they were to me, and they brought to my mind 
the idea, that the flowers of the Bible, are like the flowers of the 
field, the more closely they are examined, the more beautiful do 
they appear. 

The river St. Lawrence is the noblest river I have ever seen. 
Opposite Ogdensburgh it is about a mile and a quarter wide. I 
had a good view of it from the window of my bedroom. It flows on 
in its majestic calmness ; the waters are beautifully clear, and very 
deep. The opposite bank looks well in the distance, much better 
indeed than when you are close to it. 

July 31st. A letter from home ; all well. Mr. Orr has returned 
from China, and wishes to see me. I suppose he wishes me to go 
to China. Well, I am ready if it be necessary, but I would rather 
go to Africa. However, here am I, and God is everywhere, and I 
will go wherever he sends me. 

August 2d. My time in this pleasant neighborhood is nearly up, 
and in two days I set off for home. Yet why do I talk of home 1 
"Strangers and pilgrims" — such we all are, and who more than I? 
I don't know whether this lonely feeling that so often comes over me 
be the cause of it, but I love to walk in graveyards, and read the 
names on the tombstones. The influence of such places seems to 
come over my soul with a quietness and calmness that is really 
pleasant. When I was in Rochester I visited Mount Hope ceme- 
tery — a beautiful place. The inscription on a grave of a mother 
and her daughter, struck me as very beautiful : 

" The night dew that falls, though in silence it weeps, 
Shall brighten with verdure the grave where they sleep ; 
And the tears that we shed, though in secret they roll, 
Shall long keep their memory fresh in the soul." 



62 MEMOIR OF "WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

While in Ogdensburgh I spent an hour among the tombs. Sev- 
eral of the inscriptions attracted my attention ; some for their 
spelling, others for their quaintness, a few for their beauty. Here 
are some of them : 

ON AN INFANT'S GRAVE. 

" Ere sin could blight or sorrow fade, 
Death comes with friendly care ; 
The opning bud to heaven conveyed, 
And bade it blossom there." 

The two following, also on the graves of infants : 

" Sleep on, dear child, 
From sorrow free, 
Ere long thy friends 
Will sleep with thee." 

" Thus on the rose 

The worm corroding lies, 

And ere it to perfection grows, 

It withers, fades, and dies." 

There is nothing remarkable in the two following, yet they are 
pleasant : 

" Lo where this silent marble weeps, 
A friend, a wife, a mother sleeps ; 
A heart within whose sacred cell, 
The peaceful virtues loved to dwell." 

" Death to thee is bliss eternal, 
Our loss is thy eternal gain, 
Thou dwell'st where spring is ever vernal, 
And life asserts its right to reign." 

I was most struck with the stone over the grave of Mary Eliza- 
beth, Mr. Savage's eldest daughter. It contained simply her 
name, age — a little over five years, date of her death, and under- 
neath, 

" The flower fadeth." 

August 3d. My work here seems to be now done ; I start to- 
morrow for Evans' Mills, and thence for New York, and then — 
where ? 

Denmark, N. Y., August 9th. Now for the last paragraph of my 
letter, or journal, or whatever you choose to call it. I preached 
yesterday three times for Mr. Eastman, at Evans' Mills, and was 
pretty well tired. These ministers have no mercy on a wayfaring 
brother when he comes along. I left early, and arrived here at 
eight p.m. I have now before me sixty-one miles by stage, ninety- 
six by railroad, and one hundred and forty-five by steamboat ; 
three hundred and two miles, to be passed over in thirty-six hours. 
However, rest after labor is sweet. If we were all as eagerly anti- 



LETTERS. 63 

cipating the rest of heaven, as I am the close of my present jour- 
ney, it would be well. 

" This life is but a fleeting show, 
There 's nothing true but heaven." 

I hardly know whether to say " Good-by," or " How are you V' 
I am at the end of my letter, and therefore the former seems most 
proper ; but when you receive it, I will be at the end of my jour- 
ney, and then the last will suit best. However, in either case, 
I am 

Most affectionately yours, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Pittsburg, Pa., September 24th, 1841. 
My Dear Mother — 

Since leaving New York on this, most probably my last visit to 
this side of the mountains, I have been so constantly on the move, 
[ have not been able to write to you. Indeed there has but little 
occurred that is worth notice. I came by way of Washington and 
Canonsburg, spending a Sabbath at Miller's Run, my old parish when 
I was a student in college. It was a time of deep feeling both to 
them and to myself, especially when I told them I never expected 
to meet them again in this world. I preached on Monday in Can- 
onsburg, and on Tuesday came to Pittsburg. After two days with 
our friends there, I set off for Butler and Venango counties. I 
spent the Sabbath in Butler, and preached once for Mr. Young. 
I need not go over my visits to our friends at Slippery Rock, 
Scrubgrass, and Big Sandy. Very pleasant and very painful they 
were. O how affectionate and kind my dear aunts were ; and 
painful as was our parting, it was brightened with the blessed hope 
of meeting again in peace, when time shall be no more. 

I returned to Butler on Saturday, and preached for Mr. Young 
on the Sabbath. In the morning, on " I am a stranger in the 
earth ;" and the afternoon on missions. In the evening, a very 
large number came to the Monthly Concert meeting, and Mr. 
Young and myself both talked some. Much feeling was mani- 
fested, and many tears shed. My text in the morning seemed to 
my own feelings to be appropriate, even in this the place of my 
birth. I left the place so young, and have been so long absent, 
that my earliest playmates are strangers to me. I walk through 
its streets, and feel myself almost alone. I meet but few I know, 
and the houses of old friends are filled with strange faces. The 
school-house looks unnatural, from the changes in the neighboring 
buildings, and the thickets and the forests where I played have 
been cleared away. Even the church, with which some of my 
earliest recollections are associated, has been removed, and another 
stands near its former site. In the graveyard alone, I felt at home. 
How my deepest affections clustered over the grave of my own 



64 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

sainted mother ; the letters on her tombstone are not more faith- 
ful to their trust, than is my memory to her pure and lovely vir- 
tues. There, too, were many whom I knew slightly, or of whom 
I have learned much from others. How sweet the thought that 
many of God's children are sleeping here, and their dust is pre- 
cious to that Saviour who never sleeps, and who has the keys of 
death in his hand. 

Next day I came to Pittsburg, and after staying a few days with 
my sister, I will set out for home. . . . 

Affectionately yours, W. M. Lowrie. 



Princeton, September 3d, 1841. 

THE PRESENCE OF CHRIST WITH HIS PEOPLE. 

( Written in a book of Extracts, for Wm. H. Hornblower.) 

That Christ Jesus is constantly with his people, is a fact de- 
clared with surprising frequency both in the Old and New Testa- 
ments. It was He who appeared to Isaac, and said, " Sojourn in 
this land, and I will be with thee, and bless thee :" Gen. xxvi. 3. 
It was He who appeared to Jacob, as he lay upon the cold ground, 
and said, " I am with thee in all places ; I will not leave thee :' 
Gen. xxviii. 15. It was He who appeared to Moses in the burning 
bush, and sending him to the court of Pharaoh, said, " Certainly 
I will be with thee :" Ex. hi. 12. And when David, in the sweet- 
est strains of poetry and piety, sang, "The Lord is my shepherd, 
I shall not want ; yea, though I walk through the valley of the 
shadow of death, I will fear no evil, for thou art with me," there 
is no doubt but it was the presence of the Saviour which he so 
gratefully acknowledges. 

For a time Christ was with his disciples in the flesh, and they 
saw his glory : but it was " expedient" that he should depart. And 
yet he is with his people still. By his Spirit, by his providence, by 
his own personal and abiding presence, he is with them still, and 
will ever be with them. Almost the first thing recorded of him by 
Matthew is, that his name is " Emmanuel, God with us." His 
own last words on earth to his disciples were, "Lo, I am with you 
always." And this is not all. His prayer to the Father is, 
"Father, I will that they also whom thou hast given me, be with 
me where I am, that they may behold my glory." 

That this Saviour may be ever with you, my dear brother, en- 
lightening you, sanctifying you, sustaining you in sorrow, tempta- 
tion and trials, making you useful in life and happy in death, and 
glorifying you with himself forever, — is the earnest prayer of the 
writer of these few lines. 

We have lived and labored together pleasantly and profitably, 
I trust, for a few short years. We must soon separate, but we 
shall meet again. Till then, pray for me. W. M. Lowrie. 



LETTERS. 65 

New York, November 30th, 1841. 
Mr. John 0. Proctor — 

Dear Brother : — You will probably begin before now to sup- 
pose, that amid the many cares and labors preparatory to a final 
farewell to home and country, I have forgotten you ; but I have 
not. I often think with great pleasure of the few days spent in 
Carlisle a year ago. How soon our pleasures vanish ! yet when 
they are rational, and especially when they are Christian, the}" 
leave a savor behind them that survives their freshness, like the 
rose, which, though withered, still yields its fragrant perfumes. 

My ordination took place Tuesday, November 9th, and the 
farewell meeting was held last Sabbath night in Dr. Spring's 
church. Addresses were made by Dr. Spring, my father, and 
myself. I feel at present very cheerful, and think I have seldom 
passed my time so pleasantly as within the last two months ; yet 
it is not insensibility, nor want of affection to home and friends, 
that makes me so cheerful ; for tears will flow at times at the 
thought of going far off, no more to return. Who knows what a 
day may bring forth? I am going out into the wide world, ex- 
pecting to be gone for life ; yet I know not but that a very few 
years may see me again at home. However, that is not probable : 
and now I do not desire it. It is a responsible step I am taking, 
and I never felt more in need of sustaining grace, and of the pray- 
ers of my friends to secure that grace for me. 

Dec. 9th. The time of sailing is still uncertain. However, such 
a disappointment is not very grievous, for it gives the opportunity 
of being more at home ; yet / should not talk of home, for there 
will soon be no such place in the wide world for me ; and, indeed, 
for many years, I have spent but little of my time at home. Long 
a wanderer, I am a stranger in the place of my birth, where I 
spent my boyish days. When I was out there this fall, I felt 
alone as I walked through the streets, for a generation had grown 
up that knew me not, and almost all my old playmates were 
gone : some were dead ; others married and settled in life ; others 
moved far away ; and, save here and there a gray-haired patriarch 
or a mother in Israel, I knew very few. I went into the church 
where my grandfather preached, and my parents had worshipped, 
and felt that I was almost alone ; and I preached on the text, " I 
am a stranger in the earth," for no other passage of Scripture 
seemed to suit my own feelings so well. Now " the world is all 
before me, where to choose my place of rest, and Providence my 
guide ;" though the poet was wrong there, for men can no more 
find a place of rest in this fleeting world, than the dove could find 
rest for the sole of her foot, when the waters of the deluge rolled 
round the earth. Like her we must fly, and that towards heaven, 
if we would avoid being buried in the waves of worldliness and 
spiritual death. Blessed be God, there is for us, also, an ark, 
where the weary mav resort for shelter and defence, when the 
5 



06 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

storm is abroad ; and when the heavens and the earth shall have 
passed away, we may still repose with unshaken confidence on 
him who now walks on the waves that threaten to engulph us, 
and who then shall be our everlasting portion ? I did not intend 
to have talked so much about utyself, but at present nothmg else 
occurred to me that I thought would interest you. I shall hope 
to hear from you very soon after I get to Singapore. Pray for 
me. 

Your brother in Christ, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



New York, December 29th, 1841. 
Mr. John Lloyd — 

Dear Brother : — 1 expected long ere this to have been on my 
way, but I am yet detained, and having a spare hour this after- 
noon, I can spend it very pleasantly in having a talk with you ; 
though unfortunately, the talking must be all on one side. The 
Huntress, which was to have gone a month ago, will hardly get 
off in less than two weeks from the present time. I am now all 
ready, or could be ready at a few hours' notice ; and as my mind 
has become familiarized to the idea of departure, I begin to wish 
that it were over. As to my " feelings" in the prospect of departure, 
which you are so anxious to know, they are really so commonplace 
that they are scarcely worth the writing. I could hardly help be- 
ing amused at the way in which you asked me to tell you what 
my feelings were at present ; you seemed to attribute so much im- 
portance to them. I did not say much about my feelings, &c, in 
my last letters to you, because I had not time, and did not feel 
then just in the humor for that kind of writing. To tell the truth, 
there are so few persons to whom I care about telling my feelings, 
either orally or by letter, that lately I have got much out of the 
habit of saying anything about those deeper feelings that are 
known only to God, and my own soul. 

Another thing that majses me say less about them is, that I 
have learned not to rely upon them so much as once I did ; and 
indeed, I so often find it necessary to act without, and even against 
feelings, from a sense of duty, that this makes me less careful 
about them. They are certainly important ; when we are in a 
proper " frame," and our " feelings" are urged on by a favorable 
impulse, there is a great deal of pleasure connected with them. 
But too much dependence upon them will often unfit us for duty. 
A. man's feelings may take their color from many things besides 
his religious state. He may be melancholy, from a low state of 
health, when he thinks it is a sense of sin that makes him sad. 
He may be cheerful and feel very grateful, as he supposes, from a 
sense of God's favor ; and yet the greater part of his joy shall be 
caused by the mere flow of animal spirits. Our feelings arise 
very often, indeed, from something in ourselves; but our standard 



LETTERS. 67 

of duty is not anything in ourselves, but the eternal word of God. 
That is liable to no changes, and does not fluctuate with the ever- 
varying tide of human passion, but flows on ever the same. I do 
not undervalue the importance of feelings ; they are like the per- 
fumes that sweeten the gales which waft us on our course ; and at 
times they may even be compared to the gales that assist the gal- 
ley-slave, as he toils at his oars. But we are rowing up stream, 
and it will not do for us to lie on our oars, every time the breeze 
lulls. " Time and tide wait for no man," and we, on the other 
hand, in our heavenly course, must toil on without waiting for 
time or tide, or wind or wave. * " Faint, yet pursuing/' As John 
Bunyan says of religion among men, so may it be said of religion 
in the heart, " We must own religion in his rags, as well as when 
in his silver slippers, and stand by him too when bound in irons, 
as well as when he walketh the streets, with applause." 

But I did not intend to write so long a lecture on the feelings, 
nor do I want you to understand that I will not tell you my feelings, 
nor be glad to hear yours : — far from it ; for some of the pleasant- 
est hours I have ever spent, have been when communing with 
you, as we told each other what the Lord had done for our souls. 
I do think, however, that you attach more importance to the state 
of your feelings, than you ought ; and hence, one reason why your 
harp is so often tuned to the notes of woe. I have often been 
struck with the remarks of Dr. Doddridge, in his Rise and Pro- 
gress, chapter xxii. §2, — "Religion consists chiefly in the resolu- 
tion of the will for God," (fee. That section is well worthy of 
your attention. But I must stop writing on this subject, or it will 
fill up my whole letter, and I have a good deal more to say. 

This (December 29th) is the e\ r er-memorable day in my history, 
when a " hope of heaven first budded in my heart." Seven years 
have rolled away since then. It seemed a long time then, to look 
forward seven years ; now, to look back, how short ! I have been 
looking backward to-day, and, amidst much that is painful and 
humiliating, I find also much that is very pleasant. I think that 
the most delightful object on which I fix my eyes, during all that 
time, is the walk you and I had one early spring morning, over 
the hills about Canonsburg. "We talked of heaven, and it seemed 
as if while we talked heaven was opened, and we could see its 
glories. Perhaps you have forgotten the time, but it seems to me 
I never shall. Every time I think of it, the scene comes up vividly 
before my mind. "I remember thee, oh my God, from the hill 
Mizar." Shall we ever enjoy another such hour ? I almost fear 
at times, that added years have taken from me the power of ap- 
preciating so sensibly the pleasures enjoyed in the days of my " first 
love." Perhaps it is best they should. At any rate, the instability 
of youth is well exchanged for the sobriety of riper years, when 
the latter adds to our capacity for glorifying our Father in heaven, 
even though it may take away the sense of novelty and delight 
once experienced. I have been trying to look forward seven y r ears, 



68 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

but who knoweth what a day may bring forth ? I can see noth- 
ing certainly, yet I can imagine enough to make me tremble. 
What should such creatures as we are do, if we had not an Al- 
mighty Saviour near? 

I feel very much disappointed at not having seen you, and 
would ask you to come over new year's day ; but I shall be out 
of the city for two or three days about that time. Farewell. 
Your brother in Christ, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



New York, January 4th, 1842. 
Mrs. Ann Porter — 

My Dear Aunt : — I have been intending for some time past 
to write you a sort of farewell letter before my departure, but have 
not till now found a fitting opportunity. It was with much sor- 
row, that I said good-by to you all, and for a good while afterwards 
I felt very miserable, and the tears would start into my eyes. The 
next week I spent at Pittsburg, and preached on Sabbath in Mr. 
Dunlap's church. On Tuesday I left Pittsburg and said good-by 
to all my friends. 

I suppose we all feel more easy about my going, from having 
had so much time to look so nearly at it. It has seemed now for 
a month past, as if I were going off in a week or two, and thus 
we have got used to the idea. However, it will perhaps be hard 
enough yet when the time comes. But so many mercies have 
crowded all my past life and fill my present prospects, that I some- 
times tremble at the load of obligation that is laid upon me. It is 
very strange how unthankful we are for our blessings. . . . 

I often think of you all, and would like to know how you are, 
but am afraid it is too late now to get an answer to this before I 
sail. But will not some of you write to me once in a while ? You 
know what is said in Proverbs, chap. xxv. 25. I trust you do not 
forget to pray for the missionaries, and for me. But I must say 
farewell — and may the blessing of God rest upon you, my dear 
aunt, and all yours. 

Your affectionate nephew, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



New York, January lltb, 1842. 
Rev. Thomas W. Kerr — 

My Dear Cousin : — I expected to have been on the other side 
of the equator before now, but as yet I am at home, the ship hav- 
ing been detained by one thing or another for five weeks. Friends 
have all been very kind to me, and I have sometimes begun to 
think myself " some great one," from the attention I receive in 
many places. This is one of the evils and trials of a missionary 
life. The Church has not yet. arrived at that state in which she 



LETTERS. 69 

ought to be in regard to missionary operations. She yet looks 
upon them almost as works of supererogation, and consequently 
regards with too much favor, in some respects, those who go as 
missionaries. I say in some respects, because, strange as it may 
seem, some of the very persons who almost canonize a missionary 
when he is among them, and speak of his going abroad in the 
most exalted terms, are among the very first to forget him when 
he is gone, and the most careless in praying for him, even though 
they resolve and promise not to forget to " make mention of him 
in their prayers." 

I am becoming more and more of the opinion, that it is in vain 
to expect the present generation of Christians to do their duty in 
the work of missions. I do not say this in a spirit of censoriousness, 
because I am aware of the many reasons they bring to justify 
themselves ; but from a growing conviction, that unless the sub- 
ject of missions is early impressed on the minds of children, and 
unless habits of self-denial and liberality for and to the heathen 
are encouraged in them, it is in vain to expect that they will, when 
they grow up, perform in any tolerable degree the duties to the 
heathen that may be expected of them. It is not ordinarily to be 
expected that those who grow up with the money-getting, and 
money-loving, and money -saving propensities of most men, should 
be prompted or induced by the ordinary motives to give freely of 
their worldly goods for the benefit of those, of whose condition they 
know almost nothing. I have often wondered, when I have heard 
an eloquent missionary sermon, or have myself presented as strongly 
as I knew how, the motives, that with me are all-powerful and 
which constrain me to sacrifice so much, and yet have found that 
men and even Christians, gave only the coppers to the heathen, 
and kept the gold and the jewels to themselves. They said, "Be 
ye warmed, be ye fed," and yet actually they gave nothing what- 
ever to further the accomplishment of their good words. Hence it 
seems to me, if I were pastor of a church, I would at once, or at 
least as soon as I dared, commence in my Sabbath School. If 
the superintendent and teachers could not, or would not, I would 
myself as often as possible, say once a month, give the children 
some ideas on the state of the heathen, their superstitions, spiritual 
condition and prospects, the way and history of the means used to 
benefit them, &c., and by degrees, yet as speedily as prudence 
would allow, I would endeavor to get them in the habit of saving 
their pennies, and giving them at stated times, to the Missionary 
Society. I would try to keep up a constant interest in the sub- 
ject among them, and this I am persuaded could be done just as 
easily as an interest can be kept up in religion generally ; though 
it must be admitted, that to keep up such an interest would require 
constant attention and labor on the part of the pastor. But the 
result would repay the labor. As the children grew up I would 
endeavor to follow them, make them not only recipients, but 
communicants, of a missionary spirit. Such is an outline of my 



70 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

plan ; what do you think of it ? If you approve it, suppose you 
adopt it, and after a year or two of trial, and making such altera- 
tions as experience may suggest, suppose you try to get your 
fellow presbyters to engage in the same kind of work. Suppose 
that in addition to the great work of preaching the gospel, you 
make this the second object of your attention, and pursue it steadily, 
until you are sure either of success, or of its failure. I make this 
proposal seriously, because I am sure that if you should diligently 
follow it out, you could do wonders. Nay, I hope you will not 
take it amiss, if I leave it as my last request to you, and as, if you 
will allow me to say so, a solemn charge to you, not to pass it 
over without careful and prayerful consideration. I did not intend, 
when I commenced this letter, to have said a word on this subject, 
but it opened up before me so strongly and vividly, that I could 
not but present it to you. I will be glad to make this a subject 
of special correspondence with you, and if you should undertake 
it, I will try to write you a letter once a year, additional, that 
you could use in some way in your remarks to the children. It is 
a subject that I have long thought very important, and now I am 
more than ever convinced of its importance. Write to me particu- 
larly on it, and 1 will say more than I can in this short and hur- 
ried communication. Farewell, and the blessing of God be with 
you both. 

Yours affectionately, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



New York, January 18th, 1842. 
Mr. John M. Lowrie — 

Dear Cousin :— After long delay, the Huntress is to sail to- 
morrow. We are all well here, and I believe all in good spirits. 
Very seldom have I found my own mind so perfectly calm and 
peaceful, as it has been since last Friday. The Sabbath was to 
me one of my bright days, or rather, as I very seldom have bright, 
dazzling days, it was one of those calm, peaceful days, when the 
soul rises insensibly above the world, and dwells with the assur- 
ance of faith on unseen realities. Unexpectedly to me, but very 
gratefully, it was communion Sabbath in Mr. Smith's church, the 
church of which I have been a member here. He preached an 
excellent sermon in the morning on " As oft as ye eat this bread," 
&c. After communion, I made a few remarks, and the exercises 
were closed with prayer by my brother John. It was good to be 
there, and one of the elders remarked to me afterwards, " Truly 
we have had a feast, and a good day." 

Yours in haste, with true affection, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



CHAPTER III. 

January 19 to May 27, 1842. 

VOYAGE TO CHINA — JOURNAL IN THE HUNTRESS. 

Ship Himfress, Wednesday, Jan. 26th, 1842. 

At sea. N. kit. 33° 38', W. long. 54° 04'. 

My Dear Mother — 

As it is just a week to-day since leaving home, and circumstan- 
ces are favorable, I shall commence my promised journal ; though 
I have so much to write up from my pencil notes, that the very 
idea of it almost appals me : — so much by way of preface. 

We got under weigh at half past twelve last Wednesday, 
and, with three hearty cheers from the crew, proceeded down the 
bay. The novelty and excitement of my situation kept me from 
any very unpleasant feelings at, parting. I ought to say more 
than this, however. The conviction that I was in the path of 
duty, and the felt presence and sustaining influence of an all-gra- 
cious Saviour, upheld me and carried me safely through a scene 
that I had dreaded almost as much as death itself. 

As there was little or no wind, the captain and pilot thought it 
best to anchor for the night in Prince's Bay — a large and very 
beautiful and safe bay, just inside of the Hook, and wait till 
morning. Accordingly the steamboat left us at 3£ p. m., and I 
felt really glad, when I saw Mr. B. parting from his father and 
brother, that I had come alone. The quietness and deliberation 
of such partings is killing. Farewell speeches read very well, but 
when one is swallowing his feelings and choking almost with emo- 
tion, and doing his utmost to retain his calmness and composure, 
the sooner in such circumstances the better, a silent shake of the 
hand and away is enough for me. It is bad enough to think of 
it now. 

After reading my Bible with more than ordinary interest, I went 
to bed at ten p. m., as quietly and calmly as if I had been at home ; 
and dreamed of you all before morning. 

Thursday, January 20th. I was wakened early by hearing the 
men at work on different parts of the rigging, weighing anchor, &c. 
I dressed and went out on deck before sunrise. I found Mr. K. 
there, and the captain soon came out. There was as yet no wind, 



72 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

but the pilot, who was " wide awake," thought a breeze would 
spring- up about sunrise, and they were preparing sail, to catch the 
first breath. We did not get fairly started, however, until after 
nine a. m., when a light breeze filled the higher sails, (topsails and 
top-gallants,) and we slowly moved away. Several other vessels, 
outward bound, had anchored near us, and they followed close in 
our wake. We soon got outside of the Hook, and when fairly 
under weigh, the pilot left us, at a quarter before twelve. I had 
hastily written a few lines to you and father, which I sent back 
by him. He sprang lightly over the side of the vessel into a row- 
boat that was waiting for him, and the last link was broken ! We 
kept on in somewhat of a south-east direction, and soon the only 
object that could be seen, was the Highlands, south of the en- 
trance of the channel to New York. I could hardly realize my 
situation. 

I soon found Mr. B. standing at the stern, looking rather pale. 
I could not help laughing, though I pitied him, and wrapping my- 
self in my cloak, as there was a fresh breeze, I sat down on 
a stool in the stern of the vessel. The motion soon began to 
affect me, and when I went to dinner, there were none at the 
table except the captain and Mr. K. I found I was " too far 
gone" to eat anything, and feeling very dizzy, went out into the 
open air. Though I felt more and more sick, I could not help 
being struck with the extreme ludicrousness of the appearance of 
a sea-sick passenger. How the old sailors must laugh among 
themselves at the pale faces and wo-begone countenances and 
staggering gait of the " men with gloves on !" I was quite sick on 
Friday, and till three p. m. on Saturday, when T went out on deck, 
and staid about two hours. We were then about the middle of 
the Gulf Stream, and the air was quite mild and pleasant. Ther- 
mometer, about 63°. I saw a shoal of fish playing in the water. 
Mr. K. said they were porpoises, but I could not see their shape. 

I felt a great deal better ; went to table and ate a light supper, 
and immediately after turned in for the night and slept pretty 
well. Dreamed about home, and my trip to Ogdensburgh, and 
fifty other things. 

There ! I have got safely to the end of last week, and I'll now 
turn in for this night. It is now past four bells, i. e., past ten o'clock, 
p.m., with us, while my watch, w T hich I have not altered since 
leaving home, says it is a little past nine with you. I suppose 
you are now at family worship. Am I right in thinking, that the 
absent one is remembered at this hour? But I need not ask the 
question, for I know it. Good night. 

Sabbath morning, January 23d. Rose and went out about six 
o'clock, New York time, but here it was past sunrise. The air 
was very mild and pleasant, and I found little use for my cloak. 
Temperature of the water, 71° ; air, about 63°. Was out on deck 
most of the morning, when it was cool and pleasant. The sky 
was covered with clouds almost all day. I thought of trying to 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 73 

preach in the afternoon, but felt almost too weak. The captain, 
too. was quite unwell ; and as he and I had concluded nothing 
definite when we spoke of the subject before, I did not like to make 
any move, without consulting him further. Could not read much ; 
it made me light-headed to read more than two or three pages. 

In the evening the captain was quite in a talking mood. He had 
been for a short time in the Liverpool trade. He spoke of the 
sufferings of steerage passengers from Europe to America, from 
want of provisions when the voyage is prolonged, sea-sickness, &c. 
Only think of the misery of 100, or 150, or 200 persons, in the 
steerage in bad weather, when sea-sick — men, women, and chil- 
dren, with their provisions and chests, &c., in one mass of con- 
fusion. It made my heart ache to think of it ; for if I, in a slight 
attack, and with comparatively splendid accommodations, had 
Buffered so much, how much more must they suffer ? And then 
to think of the slaves in a slave-ship, when sea-sick ; " Man can- 
not utter it." The captain had once crossed from Liverpool with 
150 steerage passengers, and he said he never wished to do it 
again. 

Monday, 24th. Quite a gale rose soon after midnight, and took 
us all aback. The captain was just getting into a refreshing 
sleep, when he heard the sound, and, rushing out on deck, he was 
wet through in an instant by the rain and the sea ; and though 
he came back soon, yet he was much the worse for the exposure. 
I heard the loud and rapid orders of the mate, and the quick tread 
of many feet about deck, but, knowing I could be of no use, I kept 
my berth. Went out about seven o'clock, though there was so much 
motion in the ship, that I was nearly sick, and could hardly dress 
myself. It was blowing quite a gale, and the ship was driving 
on, and rolling like an egg-shell Only think of a vessel whose 
weight must be several hundred tons, probably 1200, tossing about 
like a cork ! What immense power to produce such effects ! And 
how great and powerful must He be who holds the winds in his 
fists, and the seas in the hollow of his hands ! I stood and gazed 
on the dashing and rolling waves, and thought of Him who 
"walked on the waters." How sweet to think his name is 
" Emmanuel, God with us." 

The gale continued all day Monday and Tuesday, and, as may 
be supposed, we had a dreary time. Not being perfectly recov- 
ered from sea-sickness, we all felt it more or less. There was a 
constant gale, the wind roaring and groaning through the rigging, 
the foam and spray breaking over the forecastle, and sometimes 
over the after-parts of the vessel. The decks were dripping wet 
all the time, and showers of rain falling every half-hour. 

During the morning the wind tore our jib to ribbons, and we 
were obliged to take in most of the sails, and drive on under close- 
reefed topsails, and reefed mainsail. (To " reef a sail" is to take 
in about one third of it ; to " close-reef" is to take in two-thirds.) 
The stock seemed to feel the weather a good deal. Jack said, 



74 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWR1E. 

" his family took a great deal of doctoring - to-day." In the cabin, 
as Mr. B. said, we only " lived ;" we did nothing, and could do 
nothing. It was hard work to keep our seats, and we had to " eat 
over the fence," i. e., had a railing about three inches high, around 
the table, and frame-work across and along, to keep the dishes in 
their place. We earned all we ate that day. I could not bear 
the air of the room, and having doffed my " long-tailed blue," and 
put on father's old over-coat, which was just the thing, I sat out 
most of the day at the door of the cuddy. Occasionally I got a 
taste of the salt water ; but, on the whole, I did as well, and per- 
haps better than any of the rest. I pitied Mr. B. very much ; he 
has been for some time in very poor health, and has suffered a 
great deal. When we asked how he was, he replied, " I have known 
many sad days, but this has been the dreariest of them all." This 
was said in a tone of deep feeling, but it only called forth a laugh, 
in which, though not unkindly meant, nor unkindly taken, I could 
not join. 

I do not know what our crew think of their passengers, but many 
sailors think that ladies and clergymen are very unfortunate 
people to have on shipboard. We tried to talk some in the eve- 
ning, but it would not do, and we turned in to hope for better days. 

Tuesday, January 25th. Gale still continued, though not so 
hard, perhaps, as yesterday ; but still severe, and the motion of 
the ship, if possible, more unpleasant. I could eat but little at 
breakfast, and after it was over, I leaned my head against the 
mizzen-mast, which comes through the table just aft of my seat, 
and felt very uncomfortable. The Bible was lying just under my 
face, and I opened it almost mechanically. It opened at Job xiv., 
and I read that touching and melancholy passage with a deeper 
experience of its truth than almost ever before : 

" Man that is born of a woman is of few days, and full of trouble. 

He cometh forth like a flower, and is cut down : he fleeth also 
as a shadow, and continueth not. 

Man lieth down and riseth not, till the heavens be no more. 
They shall not wake, nor be raised out of sleep. 

Thou prevaileth against him and he passeth, thou changest 
his countenance and sendest him away." 

We had showers and sunshine all day, wind high but gradually 
abating, though not enough to enable us to enjoy much comfort. 
You would have laughed could you have looked in at the cuddy 
about seven p. m., and yet your pity would have been moved. The 
two ladies sat near the door of their brother's room quietly, for sev- 
eral hours, not sad, nor yet cheerful. Mr. B. sat half awake and 
half asleep, and feeling, as he said the next day, in such a way as 
his " lexicon had no words to express." Mr. K. sat for hours by the 
table, leaning his head upon his hand, and feeling incapable of doing 
anything; making an occasional attempt to enliven us, but gene- 



JOURNAL AT SEA. (0 

rally giving it over very soon. Myself, unable to sit still any 
length of time, and yet equally unable to do anything: hating to 
go into my room, where the air was still closer; and hating to go 
out where everything was damp and cold. The captain was but 
poorly, and kept his bed all day; and the mate had his hands full 
outside. The "boys" seemed to feel as badly as ourselves, as it 
is their first voyage. One of them said he " would give a hun- 
dred thousand dollars to be at home again." "Well," said Mrs. 
G., when she heard it, " there's only one thing would tempt me 
to make such a voyage." 

In the evening the captain came into the room, and Mr. K. 
spoke to him, and said something about the pleasures of home ; 
" but this is not home, — there is no place like home." " True !" 
said Mr. B., in a tone half tragic, half comic, that set us all a 
laughing, and seemed to revive us a good deal. Well, that's 
enough of the dark side of the picture, and as things took a better 
course in the evening and night, we will have some lighter colors. 

Wednesday, 26th. A splendid day ! After a few light showers, 
it cleared off" gloriously ; the sea became smooth, and the sun 
shone out pleasantly ; and with a pleasant breeze, that soon dried 
up the moisture of the decks and rigging, we held on the " even 
tenor of our way." We sat in the sun, and all felt decidedly 
better. The captain was out, and seeing me reading " Two 
Years before the Mast," he said, " That's one of the greatest 
books ever written. It is a real masterpiece. There's a great 
many men, and officers, and captains, just as they are there de- 
scribed, though they don't all like to own it." 

A pigeon or gull followed us for several hours to-day, flying with 
almost no exertion. It was as large as a duck, though longer, 
ash-colored above, and white beneath, with a long bill. 

In the evening, the ladies commenced walking on deck, and for 
a while we were quite merry. It was a glorious moonlight, and 
the rich colors of the sky and sea were very beautiful indeed. I 
sat up till past eleven, most of the time at my journal. 

Thursday, 27th. Up and out about seven. A very pleasant day, 
but so little wind that we made very little progress. A sail has 
been on our weather quarter all day, but so far off, that we see 
but little of her. We saw one on Monday, but soon lost sight of 
her in a shower of rain. Busy reading and writing " Before the 
Mast," and my journal. Have had a great appetite yesterday and 
to-day. 

All seem to be in fine spirits, and to enjoy the pleasant weather 
exceedingly. To give you an idea of the matter — the thermometer 
to-day was 69°, and I sat in the shade of one of the sails for seve- 
ral hours, without either hat or cloak, reading ; the ladies were out 
without their bonnets, and all this on the 27th of January ! In 
the evening, we had several very pleasant little conversations. 
The captain said that in one of their late voyages, they had a 
sheep and a goose that became very intimate and sociable, and 



76 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

used to run about the decks together. They took them out to 
Canton, and brought them back, refusing to kill them, on account 
of their singular union. This called forth the remark, that sailors 
had some feelings after all ; and the captain added, that he had 
known a whole ship's crew to intercede for the life of a favorite 
pig, saying they would rather live all the time on salt beef, than 
have it put to death. " If I had anybody to write it down," said 
he, " I could tell almost as fine a story as that book does" — point- 
ing to " Two Years before the Mast." 

As we are all pretty well over sea sickness, I took the opportu- 
nity of consulting the mate as to religious services, meaning on 
the first good occasion to have the matter settled with the captain. 
I am more and more pleased with Mr. Gillespie, and could heartily 
wish that he were master of a vessel himself. He says when he 
" gets to becaptain, if ever that happens, he means to have wor- 
ship twice a day for all the crew." He told me, that in one of 
their voyages, one of the men did not come to preaching once, 
alleging that he was sick. He suspected him of merely feigning 
sickness, and went to see him, and finding that it was all a sham, 
ordered him a pretty stiff dose of castor oil. The man had to 
take it, and did not feign sickness any more. 

Friday, 28th. Another very fine day. Up and out very soon 
after sunrise, meant to have seen the sun get up, but failed. A 
pleasant breeze all day, and as many sails spread as could well be 
got on the masts and yards. Yesterday and to-day the men have 
been employed in setting up the rigging, which was somewhat 
loose. It had been set up in New York in cold weather, and 
needed overhauling. All in fine spirits, and eating heartily. This 
has been what Mrs. G. calls our " pork and bean day." We had 
the finest dish of those articles decidedly that ever I tasted, and 
other good things, " too tedious to mention," as auctioneers say. 
1 shall become quite an epicure before the voyage is out, at this 
rate. 

Took the opportunity of speaking to the captain about religious 
services. He was perfectly willing to have service on the Sabbath, 
and seemed anxious to know if we could have singing. He said 
there was no objection to the passengers having prayers as often 
as they chose in the after-cabin ; but when I spoke of having the 
men attend once a day, (which the mate recommended,) he an- 
swered in such a way, that I considered it prudent not to afford 
him the opportunity of giving a direct refusal, at least for the 
present. 

A light shower in the afternoon cooled the air a little too much. 
Thermometer during the day ranged from 68° to 72° in the shade. 
The wind has increased some, and the vessel rolls a good deal. 
Saw a sail on our stern to-day, a great way off, which may have 
been the same one we saw yesterday. 

Finished " Two Years before the Mast," and lent it to the cap- 
tain, who wants to read it. Overhauled some of my papers, and 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 77 

began to lay out Brother Owen's route to India. Read a page of 
the Brother Jonathan, gazed at the deep blue sea for a long time, 
listened to the canary bird, and talked with Mr. B., whom I find 
a very pleasant companion indeed. Saw a gull flying about and 
sporting in the waves. Its flight was 

" O'er the mountain wave, 
Its home upon the deep." 

Yet methinks like the dove that Noah sent out from the ark, or 
like the Christian pilgrim in the world, it would here " find no 
rest for the sole of its foot." 

Reading one of Cailyle's pieces, a review of the life of Jean Paul 
Richter. The review was short, but contained several very strik- 
ing and beautiful thoughts, with some that, though smoothed 
over, yet contained the rankest pantheism. "Even in the streets 
of Bayreuth, Richter was seldom seen without a flower in his 
breast." What a trait of character is that ! so simple, open, child- 
like. Carlyle's description of Richter's style is exactly character- 
istic of his own style at present, for I would never have dreamed 
that the author of this review, written 1827, had also written the 
'•' French Revolution." '' The essence of affectation is that it be 
assumed." Richter's " fancy hangs, like the sun, a jewel on every 
grass blade, and sows the earth at large with orient pearl." " Unite 
the sportfulness of Rabelais, and the best sensibility of Sterne, 
with the earnestness, and even in slight portions, the sublimity 
of Milton ; and let the mosaic brain of old* Burton give forth the 
workings of this strange union, with the pen of Jeremy Bentham !" 
Such is Richter's humor, &c, according to Carlyle. Here's a good 
idea, " True humor springs not more from the head than from the 
heart. It is not contempt, its essence is love; it issues not in 
laughter, but in still smiles which lie far deeper." He speaks of 
:i the freedom with which Richter bandies to and fro the dogmas 
of religion, nay, sometimes, the highest objects of Christian rever- 
ence ; ; ' and in the same paragraph adds, " Yet he is in the high- 
est sense of the word religious." Save me from such a religion ! 
That will do now for a talk for this night, and good-by. 

Saturday night, January 29th. How many thoughts of past, 
of distant, of high and holy and heavenly things it brings ! It 
speaks of the Sabbath— of rest. But I am tossed on the wide and 
heaving sea ; there is no rest on earth, not till we come to the 
heavenly world, where " there is no more sea." Now the ship is 
rolling in the waves, everything here is moving. I am a stranger 
and a pilgrim in the earth. I look about in vain for some solid, 
unmoving foundation, but I see none below the skies. Upwards, 
I see the heavenly host, and they appear fixed. I know that the 
things of the invisible heavens are firm. That city hath founda- 
tions. Its builder and maker is God. 

" Heaven is the Christian pilgrim's home, 
His rest at every stage." 



78 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

Our passengers have begun to amuse themselves with talking and 
planning about their return home, but I do not join them in this. 
Even now, my outward condition is better than His, who " had 
not where to lay his head ;" and for His sake, willingly do I " con- 
fess that I am a stranger in the earth." Good night ; I am pensive, 
but happy. It is now near your time for family worship ; and 
though absent in body, in spirit I will join with you. The peace 
of God keep you all ! 

Monday, January 31st. Yesterday was the Sabbath ; the sun 
rose clear and bright, and the day was fine, with sufficient wind 
just to keep the sails tolerably full. The men were all free soon 
after nine a. m., and soon after ten, we met for preaching in the 
forecabin. 

I took my station by the door of my room, where I could hold 
on to the back of the seat round the table. The two ladies sat on 
the bench just before me, and the mate next to them, the captain 
on a chair at the corner of the table, Mr. B. and Mr. K. on my 
right hand, and the men along the side and end of the room oppo- 
site me. They were all present, I believe, except the man at the 
helm and the second mate, who had to keep on the lookout. The 
room was quite full. The services were commenced by reading 
2 Kings v., then followed prayer and singing. I set the tunes my- 
self, and was pretty loudly accompanied by several of the crew, 
some two or three of whom knew the tunes, while others guessed 
at them ; on the whole the singing was tolerable, but I hope it 
will improve. After singing the hymn, I preached on Luke xvii. 
11 — -19 ; Christ's healing the ten lepers. My hearers were very 
attentive indeed, especially one of the men, whom I had spoken to 
several times, and whose jolly air and hearty singing at the ropes 
had attracted my attention. I was. however, a good deal embar- 
rassed. My head almost touched the ceiling. My audience was 
almost within arm's length ; some were in fact so ; the room was 
small, and not being sufficiently accustomed to the motion of the 
vessel, I had to hold on all the time to the back of the seat to keep 
my balance. Then by having to lead in the singing, there was no 
time to compose my thoughts, and I suppose I made but blunder- 
ing work of it. After preaching, there was prayer and singing 
again, and the benediction— the whole exercises taking about fifty 
minutes. I wanted to have them as short as possible, and not 
knowing exactly how much time they would take, this contributed 
a little to embarrass me. I assure you, I felt for a while after the 
services were over, as though I should like to hide myself from the 
sight of everybody. However, I could not but believe, that I had 
endeavored to do right ; and though for a while half tempted to 
think that such services were of no use, yet on the whole I was 
glad that a beginning had been made. We shall probably do 
better hereafter. Soon after service, Mr. Gillespie told me that 
$ust before service, he had gone into the forecastle to see if all the 
men had come forward. He found one there who was not quite 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 79 

ready, but said he was coming. "Ah, Mr. Gillespie, it is seven 
years since I heard a prayer." It was the same man who ap- 
peared so attentive. 

Saw a couple of flying fish to-day, and thought at first that they 
were little birds; one of them flew with an irregular flight more 
than forty yards before it touched the water. The sight of them 
made me think of a passage in Henry Martyn's diary, where he 
says that he thought his own aspirations after holiness and heaven, 
were short and low and uncertain, like the flight of the flying fish. 
The sight and the thought made me condemn myself. 

Had prayers in the cabin at eight p. m., and afterwards a long 
talk with Mr. Gillespie about the Wall-street and Middle Dutch 
churches, and about a voyage Mr. G. made from Liverpool to New 
York with 135 steerage passengers, several of whom died on the 
voyage. He had almost the whole care of them, and dates his 
first serious impressions to what he then witnessed. Then we 
talked about the difficulty of maintaining the life of religion on 
ship-board, and in places of trial, the danger of worldliness, &c. 

Tuesday, Feb. 1st. What did I do to-day? Let us see. Read 
two chapters in History of the Puritans ; five or six pages of 
geometry; the introduction to Hill's Theology; part of the "Cu- 
riosity Shop ;" an article in the Repertory ; laid out our course 
thus far on my map — which, having some occasion to show to the 
captain, he told me very politely, that I " was an accomplished 
hydrographer." I intend to try to get on some regular course 
of study soon ; to-morrow, if possible ; because I begin to feel the 
monotony of this sea life, and to find the need of system in the 
employment of my time. 

Wednesday, Feb. 2d. Up and out (my stereotyped formula) 
at half after six ; walked about the deck for half an hour, and 
then came down and spent an hour in reading the Bible in Eng- 
lish and Hebrew. After breakfast, read Neal's History of the Pu- 
ritans pretty steadily for two or three hours, with the exception of 
several turns on deck. While I was looking over the side of the 
ship, at some sea-weed floating past, the captain came up to me, 
and, in answer to my inquiries, told me that they never saw it 
much south of 17° north lat. ; and that on their return home, the 
first familiar object seen is the north star, and the second the sea- 
weed. 

Thursdajr, Feb. 3d. Another clear and beautiful day, but still 
unfavorable for our speedy progress. The wind is still too much 
from the east, and we move on slowly over the deep blue sea. 
I spent some time this morning, leaning over the ship's side, and 
looking almost without an object at the ocean. The sea was 
quite calm, with a long low swell, that gently rocked the ship, as 
a nurse would rock the cradle of a sleeping child. Everything 
where I stood was still, and I looked attJie sun's rays as they glit- 
tered from the little dancing waves. How they sparkled and shone 
in one full blaze, where his beams fell directly on them ! while off 



SO MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

on either side, as they became fewer and fewer, but still bright and 
sparkling as ever, they looked like little fairies of the deep, putting 
their heads up joyously out of the water, and as suddenly sinking 
again beneath the wave. See that splash in the water ! what is 
that ? Oh, it's a gull, plunging down probably for a flying fish ; 
now he is off in a long flight, away to the south — will he come 
back again ? Again, the blue sea and the sparkling reflected 
beams ; the sails flapping idly against the mast. Almost begun 
to wish for another gale, and yet so calm and peaceful, it seems 
good to be here. How apt we are to be satisfied with this uncer- 
tain world when the sun shines, and the soft winds blow ! Yet 
storms may come, — they will come, and then we shall say — 

" I would not live alway, I ask not to stay 
Where storm after storm rises dark o'er the way.'* 

What's that, away off there ? A sail. Ha ! human beings 
there ! Who are they? Do they see us? How are they? Are 
they joyful or happy? It was a bark, bound to the southward, — 
probably an English vessel, bound to the West Indies. It was, 
however, too far off to exchange any signals, and soon was out of 
sight. 

My time passes pleasantly away, and as yet, I have felt nothing 
like ennui ; and very seldom, indeed, has the feeling of loneliness, 
that came over me so often last summer, come near me in this 
voyage. Perhaps it is because I feel more and more that I am a 
stranger in the earth, and am more and more satisfied that it 
should be so. 

Friday. Feb. 4th. Another glorious day. Up and out before 
the sun ; saw him rise. My vocabulary wants words to express 
the richness and beauty of the clouds 

" "Which sat about the East, 
And wantoned with his golden locks." 

After tea looked over a little school-book in astronomy, with 
maps, &c, and concluded to try some of the constellations : was 
quite charmed with my success, for I made out the whole con- 
stellation of Orion, and single stars, in four or five others. The 
ladies, who were promenading the decks, joined me, and after show- 
ing them my newly acquired knowledge, we spoke of him " who 
leosed the bands of Orion, and sent forth Mazzaroth in his sea- 
son." I became quite enraptured with the study, and promise my- 
self a good deal of pleasure in pursuit of it. Do you remember how, 
one night, as we were going to church, I pointed out to you the 
North Star, andOrion's belt? I have been looking up so long, that 
my neck fairly aches. How little we know of the stars ! They are, 
doubtless, at least that is my own firm conviction, inhabited worlds, 
— all displaying the power, and wisdom, and goodness of our Cre- 
ator. What wonderful and varied displays of his attributes would 
be seen by one who could visit them all ! I am inclined to believe 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 51 

— though, of course, it is mere conjecture — that every one of them 
is arranged in a different order, inhabited by different kinds of ra- 
tional and irrational beings, with different genera and species of 
plants and minerals ; aye, and different kinds of things for which 
we have neither names nor conceptions. Who shall limit the 
works of Him, whose understanding is infinite, and who is wonder- 
ful in working. 

Monday, Feb. 7th. Yesterday was a very calm, delightful day. 
Sufficient breeze to carry us on from five to seven miles an hour, 
and so steady, that there was very little motion. Had service 
in the morning, at ten o'clock. Preached on Psalm xxxvii. 5 ; 
and being less embarrassed, I got on much more comfortably than 
on the preceding Sabbath. The attention was very good indeed. 
After service it was quite pleasant to look to the forward part of 
the ship. The forecastle doors were open, and some of the men 
were lying in their berths or sitting on their chests, reading. Others 
weie sitting on the windlass and spars, or standing by the sides of 
the ship, reading or talking, all neatly dressed, and apparently all 
at their ease, and very comfortable. I think our crew are a very 
good-looking set of men indeed. One of the boys was sitting by 
the ship's side, doing nothing. The mate went past him, and as 
he passed, pulled out a tract from his pocket, and gave it to him. 
Afternoon and evening passed off pleasantly and pretty quietly. 
The passengers were talking together in the lower cabin, in the 
evening, where they had cakes and nuts, <fcc, and sent for me to 
join them, but, I excused myself, and retired to my own room. It 
was Monthly Concert evening, and I thought of the many Monthly 
Concerts I had attended, — of the last one, and of the work before 
me. Commenced an essay, or address, or — I hardly know what 
yet, — but something for Sabbath Schools, which, if it is ever fin- 
ished, I'll try to have published, provided I think it worthy of 
that honor. 

This morning I mustered up courage enough to climb up to the 
main-cross-trees. You may be sure I held tight to the ropes, when 
I had got so high. I was surprised to find how small everything 
looked on deck. The ship seemed no broader than a common row- 
boat, and the men on deck only like children. Whether I shall 
ever get above the cross-trees is more than I know at present ; but 
it is very doubtful. There are no ladders any higher up, and I 
don't like the idea of "shinning" up and down a couple of bare 
ropes. 

After reading a couple of chapters in Neal, I took my geometry, 
and lay down on the transom, in the lower cabin, which is nicely 
cushioned, and read over several propositions. I have been star- 
gazing this evening. It was rather cloudy, and not a favorable 
time ; but I found out Castor and Pollux, and several other stars.. 
I have already learned the names of twenty-five stars and clus- 
ters in ten different constellations, and that in only three evenings' 
study. I can point them all out with little or no difficulty. Only 
6 



82 MEMOIR OF "WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

learn the constellation Orion — one of the most magnificent, and 
one of the easiest learned in the heavens — and by imaginary 
squares, and rectangles, and triangles, you can discover the posi- 
tion of any star you wish. The mate has a copy of Burrit's 
'• Geography of the Heavens and Celestial Atlas," which is a cap- 
ital work. One wants nothing more to learn the names of the 
principal stars, and many interesting particulars respecting them. 

We have a very pleasant breeze now that is carrying us on 
nine miles an hour. I was out just now, half-past nine, p.m. ; 
clouds covered the sky, through which a few stars dimly shone ; 
the sea on either side was dark, the ship was dashing the waves 
in white foam from the bows, and leaving a long line of snow-like 
billows behind her. 

Tuesday, Feb. 8th. The breeze which we took yesterday eve- 
ning proves to be the regular trade wind, which will probably 
carry us down to N. Lat. 7° or 6°. We are dashing on now at 
ten and a half knots, or miles, to the hour. The captain says 
" the log line is not long enough ;" " she is making money now 
for her owners." I was standing after dark at the stern and at 
the bows of the vessel, to watch the foam caused by the ship's mo- 
tion. It was really splendid at the bows. Going so rapidly, she 
threw the foam and spray in wide sheets as white as snow, eight 
or ten feet ahead, and several yards on either side ; and the phos- 
phorescence was bursting out in faint glimmerings, and in sparks 
and flashes, with a delicacy of light, such as I never saw equalled 
by any human inventions. How wonderful are the works of the 
Lord which we see, when we " go down to the sea in ships, and 
do business on the great waters !" How wonderful is that wisdom, 
that by the use of such simple things as water and light, can pro- 
duce so many beautiful and glorious sights as we see in the clouds, 
and the rainbow, in the magnificence of Niagara, and the solemn 
grandeur of the ocean. " Oh Lord, the earth is full of thy riches, 
— so is this great and wide sea." 

Wednesday, Feb. 9th. Trade-winds still strong, and sea pretty 
rough. None of us (by us I commonly mean the passengers) slept 
very well last night, and none of us feel very well to day. It is 
hard to describe one's sensation, being neither sick nor well. 

In the morning saw a shoal of porpoises only a few yards from 
the ship's side, but too far off to be reached by a harpoon. They 
were playing in the water and appeared to be turning over in a 
circle for amusement. We only saw them when in the upper arc 
of the circle, when they threw themselves completely out of water. 
Saw also several of Mother Carey's chickens, a small dark-colored 
bird. The reason why they are seen only in rough weather is, 
probably, that they obtain their food from the sea, and find it more 
abundantly where the water is rough. 

Thursday, Feb. 10th. Many flocks of flying-fish about the ship 
to-day. They start up in flocks of from ten to a hundred as the 
.■ship passes along, and remind me very much of the way in which 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 83 

little birds start up from the bushes and from stubble-fields. One 
of them flew aboard last night. I shall probably get some be- 
fore the voyage is out, and will send you one or two. The one 
that came on board was about seven inches long, black above and 
white on the belly ; mouth very much like a sucker's : wings about 
four inches long, but being dry when I saw it, they were shrunk 
up and I did not see their breadth. The tail has the lower part 
much longer than the upper, and when they fly it seems to serve 
the part of a rudder through the air. They are commonly only 
about seven inches long, and many that I see are much shorter. 
Captain Lovett, however, says that off the cape of Good Hope two 
came aboard one of his ships in a storm, that were each fifteen 
inches long, and measured twenty-two inches from tip to tip of 
the wings, and were seven inches round the body. They are 
said to be very fine eating, according to Mr. K., " the sweetest of 
all fish." Sometimes they fly on board in such numbers as to 
furnish a mess for all hands. Our ship, however, being very high 
out of water, we are not likely to have that luxury. But we need 
not complain, for there is everything here that one wants, and 
perhaps more than is good for us. 1 am a great advocate of tem- 
perance in food, but I do not like to be tempted with too many 
good things. My principles of moderation might likely take wing 
and fly away. 

We are beginning to feel the monotony of sea life, and the wish 
that we might speak a ship is often uttered. Even the sight of a 
sail is agreeable, and the flying-fish and Mother Carey's chickens 
are eagerly looked after. I make a visit to the main-top every 
day, and sometimes higher, and look around, but nothing is to be 
seen ; the same vast expanse of waters still meets the eye. It 
seems as if, when we came to the place where " the sky and sea 
meet," we must certainly see something ; but on, on we go. The 
sky above and the dark rolling waves beneath, and ourselves the 
only visible objects of interest. Yet I am not lonely, nor would 
I go back if it were in my power. I am beginning now to feel the 
reality of my situation, and to think of future plans and operations. 
For two weeks or more after leaving New York, I could hardly 
realize that I was really gone. It seemed like a dream. I saw 
the waves and looked round the ship, but still could not feel that 
I was really on my way. Now, however, as we approach the line, 
I begin to feel that I have passed the Rubicon, or to use a more 
scriptural expression, that I have departed from Jerusalem and the 
temple, and am going far off to the Gentiles. 

" Far away, ye billows, bear me ; 
Lovely native land, farewell." 

The captain was talking at night of " Two Years before the 
Mast ;" and speaking of Harris, the talented sailor, he said, " We 
often have such men on board ships. I had one last voyage, who 
knew more than any one else in the ship. He had once been 



84 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

master of a vessel himself." I asked how it happened, then, that 
he became a common sailor again. " Oh, he was one of those 
men to whom money does no good, and who don't care about it. 
They are better off than their officers, for they do what they are 
told, and then turn in to their berths, and feel no responsibility or 
care." 

Passed the latitude of the Cape Verd Isles yesterday and to-day, 
but too far off to see them, or any signs of land. 

Friday, Feb. 11th. Our trade-wind is slackening very much, 
and we shall probably be in the "variables" to-morrow. Have 
not felt like doing much of anything for two or three days, — not 
sick, nor well. 

Saturday, Feb. 12th. Trade-wind still continues, and we have 
come over a thousand miles in five days — pretty good sailing that. 
Calm, pleasant day, and rather warm ; looked very much like 
rain for several hours, but it has cleared off beautifully, and we 
have promise of another pleasant Sabbath. This afternoon, as 1 
was standing by the gangway, I observed another kind of fish, the 
" skip-jack." There was a large shoal of them, playing about in 
the water, and leaping sometimes ten feet, though commonly not 
more than three or four. 1 could not observe the shape or size 
very distinctly ; they were perhaps as large as a large shad. Saw 
a very large flock of large dark-colored birds, but they were too 
far off to be distinctly seen. Star-gazing to-night, and saw a 
couple of stars you never see in the United States — -Canopus and 
Achernee. The north star is fast sinking, and we shall soon lose 
sight of it. 

Saturday night again ! The past week has fled away swiftly 
and pleasantly. Soon the Saturday night of life will come, and 
the unending Sabbath of eternity will dawn. 

Sabbath, Feb. 13th. A calm, beautiful, and glorious day. Quite 
clear all morning, and light fleecy clouds in the after part of the 
day, which tempered the air. Preached at ten, a. m., on 2 Cor. v. 
21. Audience very attentive. I still lead in singing, and must 
say, it was to-day quite respectable. Sung the last hymn (we 
only sing two) to Old Hundred, and almost every one joined in. 
Heard a voice I had not heard before singing, and, looking up, 
found it was the captain, singing with a good deal of earnestness. 
After dinner went up to the main-top, where I could feel myself 
alone, and, sitting down, read and sang, and looked out on the 
blue sea for an hour. It was good to be there. I was above the 
cares and the business of the deck. A light breeze made my sta- 
tion pleasant, and I looked out on the calm and gently heaving 
sea, where the sun shone down with bright and yet undazzling 
rays. I felt as a Christian sometimes feels when all around is 
calm, and the Spirit's influences, like gentle breezes, move upon 
his soul, and the favor of God, like the sun's glad beams, comforts 
his heart. Yet still it was not home ; the rolling sea was still 
there, and no one could sa}^ how soon the calm might become a 



JOURNAL AT SEA. #5 

storm. It was not heaven, it was only a foretaste of the eternal 
rest. My meditations, however, were disturbed by the sight of a 
large fish making his way after the ship. The sailmaker said it was 
probably a shark, because we were now in the " shark country.'' 

Monday, Feb. 14th. My mode of passing my time now is some- 
what like this : — Rise about six, a.m., and commonly spend near 
an hour in dressing and walking about deck. From seven to 
eight, at the English and Hebrew Bible. Breakfast at eight, and 
then History and Mathematics till about noon; but during this 
time, I commonly walk about deck several times, and pay a visit 
to the mast-head ; also occasionally talk a little. Dinner at one, 
p.m., and tea at six. Between these meals I read Theology and 
Miscellaneous Literature, diversified, as in the forenoon, by walk- 
ing, &c, and occasionally by a nap, though I prefer taking the 
nap just before dinner. After tea, study Astronomy, or stand by 
the gangways (our great loafing places,) and look over into the 
sea, or talk with anybody who may come along. It is a time of 
general relaxation. The captain is smoking his cigar on deck, 
looking at the sails and stars, or talking and laughing with some 
of the passengers. The ladies are laughing and joking with Mr. B., 
and Mr. K. occasionally gives a lift when the conversation flags, 
or they come to me for a lesson in starology, or they enter into a 
discussion with their brother, or — or — -Oh, there's a great many 
things too tedious to mention. At eight, p.m., we have prayers in 
the cabin, and then an hour is spent sometimes in reading, or 
writing, or conversation. At nine we have nuts and raisins, &c, 
and then off to bed as soon as may be, unless I happen to go out 
on deck and get into conversation with the mate, which sometimes 
keeps me up longer. 

Tuesday, Feb. 15th. Rain during the night, and quite a heavy 
shower in the morning. Caught about 100 gallons for the stock, 
and the men and boys washed a good many of their clothes, and 
hung them about the rigging to dry. It then fell dead calm, and 
the ship lay like a log on the water. The captain said it was 
just the kind of weather for sharks, and he got the shark-hook 
rigged out, and baited with a piece of pork, and hung it out astern. 
Very soon a small shark showed himself, and seized it ; the line 
was drawn in, and he was quickly on deck. He floundered about 
at a great rate, but was soon hauled to the middle of the vessel, 
and a handspike thrust down his throat ; he then received several 
blows on the back of the head with a heavy iron hammer, and 
lay quite still. Although he was dead, and the second mate 
opened him, took out all the entrails, and washed the inside of his 
body— would you believe it? — after all this, he floundered about, 
and beat the deck violently with his tail, and looked so savage, 
that it was found necessary to thrust the handspike down his 
mouth again. He very soon died really, and we looked at him. 
He was five feet four inches from the nose to the end of tail ; fore fins, 
tifteen inches long ; back fin, nine inches ; tail, eighteen inches : 



86 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

quite a young one. He had evidently been feeding pretty heart- 
ily, because in his stomach we found several large pieces of squid, 
a fish that is said to grow to as large a size as any in the ocean. 
There were a couple of little fishes swimming about him and 
clinging to his back, while in the water, and one of them clung so 
tight, that he came up on deck with him. It was a sucker, which 
I have in spirits, and will try to send home. 

In the afternoon the mate caught a bonito, a fish about two 
feet long, and perhaps six inches in diameter in the middle. He 
was perfectly round in every part from the head to the tail ; on 
the back he was of a most beautiful purple, and the belly was 
white and golden yellow in streaks, the colors gradually mingling 
with red. Altogether I do not wonder that the Portuguese called 
him bonito, the beautiful. The fins on the back and side fold 
up like a fan, and can be laid so close to the body that you may 
pass your hand over them without feeling them. Its great pecu- 
liarity, however, consists in the heart, which is double, the largest 
part being red and the other white. The abdominal cavity is 
very small, and the fish is almost a solid mass of flesh. We had 
part of it cooked, and it formed a not unpalatable dish. 

Thursday, Feb. 17th. To-day I paid a visit aloft, and went 
out to the end of the main-top-gallant-yard, which is consider- 
ably higher than the cross-trees ; but the reason I did it was, 
I found they had fixed a ladder from the cross-trees to the royal- 
mast, so that there was no difficulty. Being now used to being 
aloft, I sat on the yard-arm for some time and enjoyed the pros- 
pect. It is like being at the top of a steeple. I went up again 
by moonlight, and the view was very beautiful, even sublime. 

We crossed the line sometime last night, and were at twelve m. 
in lat. 27' south. That is a very good passage. It was just four 
weeks yesterday since leaving New York, and four weeks to-day 
since leaving Sandy Hook. This is one of the great divisions of 
our voyage. We shall now begin to ask how long it will be be- 
fore we pass the Cape, and then, how long to the straits of Sunda? 

Friday, Feb. 18th. Took the south-east trade-wind about four 
o'clock this morning, and we are now moving off gaily in a 
south-west course. We shall run down now towards South 
America. 

This is my birth-day. Another mile-stone in the journey of 
my life is past. I have come by a smooth road so far, and it does 
not seem long ; but I cannot tell what my road shall be hereafter, 
nor how long. I often feel, when I look back, as Milton did on 
the same occasion. 



" My hasting days fly on with full career, 
But my late spring no bud :>r blossom showeth. 



But let them fly- 



" If I have grace to use them so, 
As ever in my great taskmaster's eye." 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 87 

Aye — and let them speed their flight. I would not be impa- 
tient, I would not desert my post, however incompetent to fill it. 
nor however great its dangers, till my discharge comes. But if 
they hasten on, 

" They'll waft me sooner o'er 
This life's tempestuous sea. 
Then I shall reach the peaceful shore 
Of blest eternity." ' 

This has been a very pleasant day; too warm to be in the sun, 
but in the upper cabin we had a cool breeze all day, and the awn- 
ing and sails keep the sun from beating on the roof. A shoal of 
porpoises were playing under the bows of the vessel for some time, 
but they were "old fellows," and kept out of the harpoon's way. 
In the evening, saw the Southern Cross for the first time. It has 
not been visible before, until after I had gone to bed. I do not 
think, however, that any of the constellations I have seen are as 
splendid as that of Orion. 

A : booby' was flying about the ship for several hours this after- 
noon and evening, and we thought would have lighted on the 
rigging ; but he did not. A ' noddy.' however, lighted on the top- 
sail yard, but when the boys went up to catch him, he flew off to 
another part of the ship, and kept out of harm's way. The booby 
is, I should think, as large as a goose, with very long wings ; the 
noddy, as large as a large pigeon. The reason why we saw so 
many fish and birds the other day was, that we were between the 
north-east and south-east trades, where probably many things, 
that they use as food, had been collected by the action of the 
winds and waves tending to the same point. 

Saturday, Feb. 19th. A bark to the westward, bound in the 
same direction with ourselves ; she is probably English, from i: the 
cut of her jib." Hoisted our colors, and she hers ; but as she is to 
leeward, we cannot see them well. Wrote a short letter this after- 
noon to send home, if we happen to speak a homeward-bound 
vessel. Mr. K. thinks we shall see one to-morrow ; so does the 
captain. Why, it would be hard to say ; I hope, however, it will 
not be before Monday. 

Nothing bothers a sailor so much as a calm. We are now 
(ten p. m.) quite becalmed ; and the second mate is walking about, 
and saying. " Anything but a calm. It takes all of Job's patience 
to bear this. I'd rather have a gale than this," &c. Yet to me it 
is very pleasant ; perhaps it would not be if long continued ; but 
this afternoon about five o'clock, it was very delightful. I took a 
chair and sat out on deck, under the shade of the sails. There 
was just a little light air that played about, making it pleasant ; 
the sea was gently heaving, and almost as smooth as if it were 
molten glass, and the mild radiance of the setting sun was reflected 
on the clouds. All seemed just as Saturday evening ought to be, 
— preparing for the rest of the Sabbath. I took out the book, 
"American Poetry," which the Misses P.'s gave me, just five weeks 



88 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

ago to-night, and read several of the devotional pieces. I had 
read some of them before, but they never seemed so beautiful. 
One of them was " The Farewell." 

" My native land adieu, adieu, 
My course is o'er the sea ; 
I sail upon the waters blue, 
« Far, far away from thee." 

Talking with the ladies this evening, we concluded to form a Bible 
class, to meet once or twice a week, and study portions of the Old 
and New Testament. I do not know yet how it will turn out. 
nor how many of the passengers and officers will attend. It may 
lead to great results. It may not. 

Sabbath, Feb. 20th. A very delightful day, except that we 
are becalmed most of the day. However, that made it all the 
pleasanter for me, on account of its being the Sabbath, and thereby 
giving us a quiet time. Preached on Ephesians v. 16, "Redeem- 
ing the tiine,"-*-a duty greatly neglected on shipboard. In the af- 
ternoon we did see a sail, homeward bound, but ten or twelve miles 
off, and the breeze so light, that there was no chance of our speak- 
ing her. The captain was greatly disappointed. He came away 
from home almost sick, and is very anxious to write to his wife. 
He is a very kind-hearted man, and often speaks of his family 
Avith very great affection. 

Our sunsets now are very splendid. The sky is quite as beauti- 
ful as I ever saw it at Princeton ; and if there were only the green 
fields and waving forests to receive the last rays of light, the pros- 
pect would be quite as fine as it commonly is on land. Captain. 
Lovett is a great admirer of such scenes. After tea, I sat out at 
the stern alone, and sang over a number of our old favorite tunes. 
No one here cares much about music; and I generally go by my- 
self when I wish to sing ; but in a ship, with so many around, it 
is impossible to be all alone. 

Monday, Feb. 21st. Trade-wind commenced blowing quite 
strong a little before daylight, and we are dashing on, seven or 
eight miles an hour. There is a good deal of motion in the ship, 
and I have felt rather queer all morning. In fact, had to lie down 
before dinner. 

Tuesday, Fed. 22d. Still a good deal of motion, and all of us 
more or less " uncertain," and very quiet. Had a very heavy 
shower of rain this morning ; and the watch on deck were busy 
washing their clothes. They generally roll up their trowsers 
above their knees, and then kneel down on deck, spread their 
clothes out before them, and scrub them with a scrubbing-brush. 
So much water runs about the decks when it rains, that they do 
not need a tub for the first soaking. They then rinse them out, 
and fasten them up in the fore-rigging to dry. 

Shortly after the rain commenced, I looked out and saw the 
captain standing at the helm, with the wheel in his hands. He 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 89 

has taken it, till the helmsman could go and get his oil-cloth 
jacket. This was a little thing, but " straws show which way 
the wind blows." Many a captain' would not have showed so 
much consideration for a sailor. I think our crew are very well 
off. Their potatoes, and soup, and beef, often look very tempting ; 
and as for their " duff," (a contraction for dough.) I have seen 
many a plum-pudding that did not look a bit better. They are 
also provided with pewter plates, and knives and forks, at their 
meals : this is an unheard-of allowance. " They are the first of 
their family that ever used them." It was thought at first that 
they would not care about having them ; and the captain asked 
the cook one day, if the men took their plates ? " Take them ! why 
they call for them as regularly as if they had a right to them /" 
Our " gentlemen rope-handlers," as they call themselves, are a 
fine-looking set. I often notice their arms, which are large and 
strong. 

This arises from their constant use of their arms, by which the 
muscles become very strongly developed. Almost all of them 
have some device tattooed on their arms. One has an anchor ; 
another, a tree ; another, a ship ; some, a ship and the star-span- 
gled banner ; several have a young man and young woman hand- 
in-hand, very neatly done. They go about decks dressed in check 
or red flannel shirts, and trowsers, with low-crowned hats and 
shoes, or no shoes, just as suits their fancy. The sail-maker 
" likes these China voyages, a man don't wear out a pair of shoes 
in a year." Very few use suspenders ; they hold their trowsers 
up by a leather belt round the waist ; and to this belt is attached 
a sheath, in which they carry their knives : each one carries a 
butcher-knife, which, like the sailor himself, is a "jack of all 
trades." They use it to scrape the paint and tar off the ship, to 
cut and trim the ropes and sails, in most ships, to carve their salt 
beef with, and to supply at once the place of knife, fork, and 
spoon. 

Thursday, Feb. 24th. A delightful, pleasant day. Captain 
"never knew so much fine weather at once on an outward-bound 
voyage." Having finished Neal's History of the Puritans, I com- 
menced Bancroft, which is quite a relief. The evenings are so 
beautiful, and the moon shines with such brightness, that I have 
spent several of the past evenings on deck. Sometimes gazing on 
the evening sky, and suffering all kinds of calm imaginations to 
float through the mind, remembering and repeating scraps of 
poetry, like this — 

" How many days -with mute adieu, 
Have gone down yon untrodden sky, 
And still it looks as clear and blue 
As when it first was hung on high." 

Sometimes learning the names of different stars, and comparing 
their colors and positions. You know what the Apostle says — 
"one star differeth from another star in glory." I often wonder 



90 MEMOIR OF "WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

I never observed that before, for the glory of Sirius, with its more 
than lunar brightness, differs widely from the red blaze of Arcturus ; 
and Canopus and Capella, "and Regulus and Aldebaran, have 
colors that the vocabulary of the earth can hardly name. Truly 
the heavens declare the glory of God. At other times I walk on 
deck, and think of the past, and the present, and the future. 
Sunshine and showers, and smiles and tears, and lofty oaks and 
little flowers, mountains and valleys, and rich and poor, — where 
was the one ever seen, that the other was not by ? 

Had a long talk with the sailmaker to-night. He is by birth a 
Swede, but left Sweden at the age of four years ; has been at sea 
twenty-eight years ; shipwrecked three or four times ; once, off 
Cape Horn ; once, seven days without a mouthful of food ; ano- 
ther time, seventeen days on so short an allowance, that at the 
end of that time hardly one of the crew could walk ; once, nearly 
dead from an attack of fever caused by giving up tobacco, which 
he was obliged to resume again. He seems to be a serious sort of 
a man ; has a number of pious phrases, and said that. " he could 
spend two Sundays as easily as one ; always plenty to do on Sun- 
day," — meaning that the Sabbath never hung heavy on his hands. 
He says he reads his Bible a great deal, but often wishes he could 
get a great many parts of it explained, "which worry and bother" 
him. This was just what I wanted, and it was in fact the reason 
why I commenced talking with him, that I might propose the for- 
mation of a Bible class. I accordingly did so, and he seemed very 
glad, and said he would try and get some more to join him, and 
we shall probably make a commencement next Sabbath. 

Monday, Feb. 28th. Fine weather still continues. On Satur- 
day, saw a "Portuguese man-of-war", i. e. a little semi-trans- 
parent bubble, of a pale rose color, floating on the water. It is a 
sea animal substance ; is something like jelly. In fine weather, a 
great many are occasionally seen about ships. They are of a 
triangular pyramidal form, and are very pretty little things. The 
captain prophesied that we should see land on Sunday, and also a 
sail. Sunday came — a fine day. " We always have fine weather 
on Sunday." Preached in the morning on the Messianic prophe- 
cies of Genesis ; attention not so good as heretofore, and I was 
afterwards a good deal disappointed when the sailmaker told me 
that he had spoken to several of the men about forming a Bible 
class, but they were ashamed to be seen in such an employment ; 
several " would like to, but if they did all the rest would be at 
them." However, I have not given up hope yet. We had hardly 
got through with the service in the morning, when the second 
mate, whose look-out it was, said that land was in sight. It was 
the Island of Trinidad, and the rocks of Martin Vas— Lat. 20° 
28' S. Long. 20° 50' W. When we saw them first, they were 
twenty or thirty miles off; but we afterwards, in the course of the 
afternoon, passed within ten or twelve miles of the rocks of Mar- 
tin Yas. If you will excuse my drawing, I will give you a sketch, 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 91 




partly from some pencil marks at the time, and partly from memory. 
The rocks are quite barren. There are a few trees on Trin- 
idad. It is very common for ships to pass along in sight of 
these rocks, their longitude being well-known, to test their chro- 
nometers. 

I believe almost everybody on board "keeps a journal." The 
captain has his, the mates theirs, the ladies theirs. Most of the 
men in the forecastle have theirs. The boys down in the steer- 
age each have one, and this evening I found Bennet writing up 
his journal too, though he is not able to read at all ! So the 
voyage of the Huntress will not probably be forgotten entirely. 
Bennet puts down all the vessels we see, and the islands we pass. 
I asked him if he said anything about the whales? '-Oh no, sir, 
I have been this way before, and they a'n't nothing strange to 
me." 

Tuesday, March 1st. Even warmer than yesterday, and still 
less wind. What there is however is directly aft, and there is con- 
sequently a pleasant draft through the cabins. The poor cook 
has a warm place, a little before meal times. The captain went 
there after dinner to light his cigar, and found the cook wiping the 
sweat off his face. " Oh dear ! dear ! if it's 86° in the cabin, I'd 
like to know what it is here !" The boys put their shoes on to- 
day, to protect their feet on the hot decks. A sail has been in 
sight all day from the topsail-yard, but not from the decks, proba- 
bly going like ourselves. 

In the evening I was talking with the second mate. He was 
on a whaling voyage once, and in a boat which had struck a 
sperm whale. The animal went down and came up headforemost 
and mouth wide open, directly under the boat, and lifted it about 
eight feet out of the water. His teeth went through the bottom of 
the boat in several places ; but he went down again, and let them 
down into the water without further injury. They managed to 
secure the whale, but they found it somewhat difficult to keep the 
water from coming into the boat too freely, at the holes his teeth 
had made. 



92 



MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 



Wednesday, March 2d. Rain in the morning, and a muchpleas- 
anter day. Progress slow. Have already lost all the comparative 
advantages of our speedy passage to the line, and the officers 
would now be willing to compound for ninety days to Angier, or 



even more. 




After prayers I went out to gaze at the stars, paying particular 
attention to those about the south pole. I think that this is the 
most splendid part of the heavens ; or at least, that it will very 
well compare with that part of which the constellation Orion is the 
centre. These stars are all seen atone view; and though there 
are a good many others around, yet they are all smaller than those 
I have put down, and also much less numerous than in other 
parts of the heavens, and consequently one sees the larger stars 
much more distinctly. Of those I have put down, the Southern 
Cross is a very beautiful object. It is more like a boy's kite, how- 
ever. And the Southern Triangle is also very conspicuous, be- 
cause there are almost no other stars near it. The most remark- 
able, however, of all these stars, is Bungula. It changes color 
every two or three minutes, from a bright red to a beautiful sea- 
green, and is constantly twinkling. Looking at it through cap- 
tain's spy-glass, it showed the red and green colors combined. The 
captain says he can see only the twinkling, but Mr. B., the mate, 
and myself, have all remarked the alternations of red and green. 
These stars, however, are not the only wonders of this part of the 
heavens. 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 



93 



In clear nights when the moon is not shining, we see also the 
Magellan clouds. These are three in number, in the form of lei 
ter V. 




A, at the vertex of the letter, is situated between Acrux and 
Beta in the cross. It is black, but right in the middle is a single 
star or luminous opening, that may be seen with the naked eye, 
and, examined through the telescope, is quite bright. B is a large, 
white cloud, but no stars are seen in it, at least not with the naked 
eye ; and C is about one third as large. B and C are about as 
bright as the milky-way. 

After gazing at 'these wonderful objects, I turned the spy-glass 
to look at the Pleiades. One has no idea on looking at them with 
the naked eye, of the number and beauty of the stars in the clus- 
ter, as seen through a spy-glass. 

Thursday, March 3d. A little rain and wind in the morning ; 
a dead calm from ten a. m. till after sunset ; a sea as smooth as 
glass, all the while ; showers after dark, and a light wind after- 
wards, which continued all the night, were the external appear- 
ances of this day. A solitary porpoise showed himself under the 
bows of the boat, but after playing about a little, as if in mockery 
of our motionless condition, he swam away. The motions of the 
porpoise are exceedingly rapid, and when the ship is going ten 
miles an hour, they will frequently collect together and sport in 
the foam, directly underneath her bows. 

I had a long talk about cockroaches. The captain said he 
was in a ship where there were so many that the captain offered 
the boys a bottle of porter for every five hundred they caught, and 
that they often obtained that many in a single night. The por- 
ter, however, was sour, or he would not have been so liberal. I 
have seen none in this ship, which, from this account, is a great 
relief. 

Saturday, March 5th. The men were at work on the rigging 
all day yesterday and to-day, and their long-drawn and strange 
cries, the development of the muscles of their limbs as they pulled 
and hauled about the rigging, and the numerous knots and splices 
and contrivances to secure the rigging, have afforded me a good 



94 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

deal of instructive amusement. A sail has been in sight all day ; 
an English top-sail schooner, going same course with ourselves, 
but not so fast ; she has fallen astern. 

It seems strange how the time passes away. I have never on 
land found it fly more swiftly than it has done this voyage. Sab- 
bath comes and Monday, and, almost before I know it, Saturday 
night is back again. My employments still occupy all my time. 
I commonly prepare a sermon every week ; and as I meet the 
ladies in a Bible class on Sabbath afternoon and Wednesday morn- 
ing, that also takes time. I had hoped to have a class formed among 
the men, but am afraid I shall not succeed. They seem ashamed 
to be seen engaged in such an employment. I stand very much 
alone as to religious exercises ; and the worst of it all is, that though 
I am engaged in the business, I have not the spirit of Paul. I 
look forward with much fear at times to this Chinese mission. It 
hardly seems possible, that I should do anything in less than 
twenty or thirty years ; and yet I have never seriously allowed 
myself to anticipate that length of life. But " sufficient unto the 
day is the evil thereof." I do not regret in the least the course I 
have taken. I have never wished since I left home, that my face 
were turned back to the land of my fathers. Not that I have for- 
gotten you, not that I do not prize its privileges. I feel most sen- 
sibly even here, that I should rejoice to go up once more with the 
great congregation to the house of God. I feel most deeply that 
there is an influence in the society of Christians to sustain the man 
of God, which he is not aware of, till removed from it. But when 
I look back on my short life, smooth and unruffled and unvaried, 
by any striking occurrence as it may seem to others to have been, 
I can mark the way in which I have been led along by an unseen 
hand, severely tried and almost bowed to the earth, when others 
thought me gay and unconcerned. Yet upheld and impelled on- 
ward, time after time, when the indolence or the quietness of my 
own temper would have kept me back, I can say, "Thus far hath 
the Lord helped me ;" and surely I can say, " Not unto me, but 
to thy name give the glory." If my master has so long led me 
and fed me in the wilderness, if he has so long guided me on the 
voyage of life, and has showed me so many favors hitherto, he 
will surely still keep me and bring me at length to my " desired 
haven." If I might but. give some proof that the religion I pro- 
fess is not in vain, if I might but glorify in some feeble degree the 
Saviour who has so graciously redeemed me, then I could rejoice 
and die. Yet perhaps it is best for me to see little fruit to my la- 
bors in my lifetime, that I may not depend on anything short of 
the righteousness of Christ Jesus. It would be dangerous for me 
to be looked up to as some great one. " The Lord reigneth — let 
the earth rejoice." It is well that He chooses our lot, and appoints 
us our work. My life has not been long, but it has been amply 
long enough to show me that I should fail most wofully, if I had 
the sole care of my own course. 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 95 

Monday, March 7th. Yesterday was a beautiful day, and my 
mind was at peace. I preached on Phil. ii. 6-11, with more ease 
and fluency, and was listened to with more attention, than at any 
time since coming- on board; and when the evening shades came 
over the sea, I was happy still. During the day I brought out a 
copy of the Pilgrim's Progress, and laid it on the table. In a very 
short time Mr. B. was reading it very busily, and when he laid it 
down, the captain took it up. "The Pilgrim's Progress!" said 
he, " I read this a long time ago, I think I would like to read it 
again." He commenced right away, and has been reading at it 
very busily since. He said this evening that he liked his book very 
much. Yesterday evening the sunset was very beautiful. I would 
try and describe it, but can give you no adequate idea of it. You 
will perhaps wonder that I write so much about the sky and stars, 
but except in our own little world on board there is nothing but 
sea and sky to write about. 

Tuesday, March 8th. Something of a squall this morning. I 
used to think " squalls" were sudden and fearful short storms, but 
the word seems to be used at sea with reference to every shower 
or gust that passes along. There is usually more or less rain and 
w r ind in the squalls, and unless they are light it becomes necessary 
to take in several of the light sails. A great deal of rain fell this 
morning, and after the decks were pretty well washed by it, the 
men stopped up the scuppers, and let the ducks and geese out to 
wash themselves. The poor creatures seemed to enjoy the sport 
very much, and played about in the water for an hour with great 
glee. I pity the geese especially. They are cooped up in a space 
which is necessarily too small, and having no access to w r ater to 
wash in, (it is not good to wash them in salt water,) they become 
very dirty, get cross, and fight with each other ; and such a treat 
as they had to-day will do them more good than anything else 
that could be conceived of. 

Wednesday, March 9th. A fine clear day and fair breeze. Ther- 
mometer varying from 69° to 71°, and feeling so cold, (day before 
yesterday it was 81°, and the day before that 85° in the shade,) 
that woollen stockings and coats are in request again. Saw seve- 
ral little birds about the size of a large swallow flying about the 
ship for several hours. I have been quite surprised to see so many 
birds so far away from land. For several weeks past, there has 
scarcely been a day when we have not seen some. And several 
times we have seen large flocks, — once or twice so large, that even 
on land they would excite attention. 

There is now no probability of our meeting any more vessels, 
as we are out of the course of homeward-bound ships. The " old 
man" says it is quite a relief not to be afraid of running foul ot 
ships at night. When he was in the Liverpool trade, he said he 
could hardly sleep at night for fear of encountering some of the 
many ships that are constantly crossing the Atlantic. 

I went up to the cross-trees to look out on the ocean, and the 



96 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

scene was indescribably grand. For several miles all around, the 
sea was covered with large waves, each wave breaking into masses 
of foam many yards in extent, and the noise of the winds and 
waves together made it impossible for me to hear Mr. B., who 
called to me to " go up higher." The sun was shining almost all 
day, which added greatly to the splendor of the scene. Several 
albatrosses have been flying about the ship, and, though she goes 
eight or ten miles an hour, they make nothing whatever of flying 
around her, sailing off a mile or two on each side and astern, and 
then coming up again. It is wonderful with what ease they fly. 
They will go a mile without any apparent motion of their wings, 
and that too in the face of a gale, that sent us ploughing up the 
waves at the rate of ten or eleven miles an hour. In fact they fly 
better when there is a gale than in a calm. It is very hard for 
them to rise off the water, unless there is some wind going, but if 
there is any wind, they turn their heads to it, and are speedily in 
the air. They will skim over the water when it is rough with 
waves six or eight feet high, and never wet a feather. The cap- 
tain says they have several joints in their wings, (which are pro- 
digiously long,) and when the wind is strong, they " take in a reef 
and shorten sail." I used to think they were all of one size and 
color, but they are not. One that I saw was of " the first magni- 
tude," — wings extending ten feet or more. There are others of 
the second, third, and fourth magnitudes. They do not appear, 
however, nearly so large when seen flying as when on deck. 
Some are white, some are dusky brown, some are brown on the 
backs of the wings and white on the body above and beneath, and 
on the lower part of the wings. Some have a dark belt or ring 
round the neck, and some are somewhat mottled. I have not seen 
any other varieties of color. One old brown fellow flew so close to 
the ship's stern, that I could see the white of his eyes. 

Monday, March 14th. Preached yesterday on Phil. iii. 1 — 11. 
But it being quite a calm, the swell caused the ship to roll so 
much, and the rudder creaked so constantly, as it always does in 
a calm, that I had not much satisfaction in the exercises. Bible 
class, as usual. Mr. B. always attends, though he takes no active 
part. I. find this quite an interesting and profitable service. 

The weather, after being very cold for three or four days, began 
to moderate yesterday morning, and now is very comfortable. The 
wind is from the north ; which in this part of the world is our 
warm wind. I think the sunsets in this part of this hemisphere 
are different from those in the United States, but I have not yet 
observed them sufficiently to state wherein that difference consists. 
It would be endless to describe every sunset, to say nothing of the 
impossibility of giving you any idea of sights which I can find no 
words in any language I know to describe. 

It is just eight weeks to-day since leaving New York. I hardly 
feel as if I ought to say, " since leaving home" because it seems 
as if I had no right to say " home." Ps. cxix. 19. I can truly say 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 97 

I never knew eight weeks to pass so rapidly away. Our vessel 
does not seem to glide more swiftly and smoothly over the waves, 
than does my time on its course. Last summer on my trip to 
Michigan, when I was gone just eight weeks, my time seemed to 
be slowly passing, and I was anxious to return home. Perhaps it 
was because I had not then severed the cords that bound me to my 
father's house, and I felt their attraction. Now, when those cords 
are seveied, and I know not that I shall ever be drawn by them 
again, I feel as if I was really cut loose, and going where Provi- 
dence may lead me. Yet my thoughts often revert back, and I 
feel as if I could wish, though I do not, that I might once more 
return ; but I cannot see anything that leads me to cherish the ex- 
pectation of returning; and I prefer not to think much of it. 
That, however, does not keep me from thinking of you and won- 
dering how you are. I never see Chun Sing tripping about the 
decks, but it reminds me of the way Reuben used to come laugh- 
ing from school, and of an evening when seated around the table, 
the ladies with their work, and myself with a book or chatting, it 
reminds me of other days. 

Yesterday evening as I was looking up at the stars, one of the 
sailors, a young man of very intelligent countenance and pleas- 
ing manner, with whom I had exchanged a few words several 
times before, came up to me and began to speak of the stars ; 
then of the delight one finds in knowledge. This led me to re- 
mark, what a proof that was of the immortality of the soul, that 
it was constantly expanding in capacity. He then asked me in 
a very serious manner, what I thought of the question, " Are any 
of the heathen saved who never heard of Christ ?" I told him I 
thought not, — speaking of adult heathen ; and mentioned several 
passages in Romans, that induced me to think as I did. This 
led him to say, that he had been in the habit of reading the Bible 
every day on this voyage, but he found a great many things he 
could not make out or understand. I offered him any assistance 
in my power, for which he seemed very grateful, and said he 
would avail himself of it. He then said, " What is it to be relig- 
ious '? A young lady asked me when in New York last time — 
'Are you religious?' I said, 'Of course I am. I believe in Christ, 
— that he is the Son of God, — that he did live on the earth, and 
that he died to save men's souls' — was I right in saying I am 
religious ?" I told him that what he believed was not all that 
was necessary ; that many bad men, and even the devils, could 
say, they believed that much. "That's true," said he, with a 
good deal of emphasis. I then went on to explain what true faith 
was, but much to my regret the watch was soon changed and he 
had to leave me. I hope to see him again, however, before long. 
I could not help thinking at the time, how little one can tell of 
what is passing in the minds of others. A few weeks ago, as I 
was thinking over the character of the men on board, I had set 
it down in my mind, that this young man would be the least 



98 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

likely to think of religion of almost all on board. There seemed 
to be a sort of " don't care about it" air in him. I regret that I 
have very few opportunities of much intercourse with the men. 
There are almost always several of them together. Indeed I 
scarcely ever see one alone, except the man at the wheel ; and it 
is against the rules to talk with him : consequently I have few 
means of influencing them except on the Sabbath. The ship is 
so well supplied with tracts, through Mr. Gillespie's care, that I 
find but little use for mine. 

Saturday, March 19th. Though busy all the time, nothing 
special has occurred to be noticed since Wednesday. We have 
had a fine breeze ever since, that has carried us on bravely ; and 
if it had only held out, would probably have carried us to the 
longitude of the Cape to-morrow. To-day is Saturday, however, 
and the wind has fallen considerably since last night. It is clear- 
ing up for Sunday. There is, however, a great deal of swell in 
the ocean, so much so that at times we are in danger of losing 
our seats, and taking a berth on the floor. Last night in the 
cabin, we had quite a little scene. The ship gave a sudden 
lurch, which nearly sent the little lamp on the floor. Miss G. 
caught hold of it, but as there was some oil on it as well as in it, 
she got a quantity on her hands, and nearly lost her balance ; 
besides, Mr. B. started up at the same time to catch the lamp, 
and before he had time to take two steps, found himself nearly 
at full length on the floor ; while Mrs. G. and myself found our- 
selves involuntarily coming very close to each other. However, 
no damage was done, and we had a hearty laugh at each other. 
This morning Mr. B. and myself were walking on deck, and a 
sudden roll to leeward, as we were walking over a wet spot, caused 
his foot to slip and down he came. As he fell his foot touched 
mine, and I went after him, and we had another laugh at each 
other, and were laughed at by others who saw us scrambling up 
again. It is now quite cool. Thermometer, 58° to-day. Have 
all my winter clothes on, and have begun to think of my over-coat 
and cloak. There has been some talk of having the stove up, 
but scarcely any of us wishes it. There is a constant rolling in 
the sea, and one might get his fingers scorched by coming too near 
the stove, when the ship rolls. 

We all seem to move on very harmoniously, and the time seems 
to roll rapidly on. Mr. K. is the most desirous of seeing the end 
of our voyage, and often talks of Angier and China. This morn- 
ing, Miss G. remarked, " How quickly the Saturdays come round !" 
" Ah !" said Mr. K., " that's because of your French lessons." 
Miss G. does not study with us, but she seems to enjoy the occu- 
pation as much as any one. Nearly every morning, Mr. B. and 
Mrs. G. sit down together to study out the lesson, and it is quite 
amusing to hear them trying to translate the hard places. Mr. B. 
has a great deal of that humor which enlivens without dazzling, 
and Mrs. G. puts on a sober countenance, and asks him questions, 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 99 

pretending at times to scold him, but evidently enjoying his sallies 
of humor very much ; while Miss G. sits by with her work, at 
times laughing heartily at a mistake, or a joke, or a puzzled look, 
as the case may be. 

Sabbath, March 20th. A fair pleasant day to commence with, 
but soon clouded over. Preached on 2 Tim. hi. 16 ; but as there 
was some wind, and a heavy sea, which there is constantly here, 
the mizzen-mast creaked dreadfully, and I had little satisfaction 
in the services. Besides, I saw it was growing darker, and the 
men were looking out occasionally, as if a squall were coming. 
The services were no sooner over than they were called to the 
ropes to take in some of the sails. So we had it, showers and sun- 
shine, the rest of the day. About nine a. m., the breeze freshened, 
so that we went on ten miles an hour. This has continued till 
the present time, Monday, p. m. About dark, things looked so 
squally, that it was thought necessary to send down the main 
royal-yard — the fore and mizzen-royals had been sent down seve- 
ral days ago — and we had showers and squalls till I went to bed, 
after ten p. m. Going out about seven a. m., I found that the greater 
part of the sails were furled, and we were driving on under close- 
reefed topsails. The ship looked very bare with so many of her 
sails taken in, and as the sea was high, she rolled more than I 
ever knew her to do before. The wind whistled through the rig- 
ging, and our ship dashed on like a frightened bird ; but everything 
is snug and secure, and as far as we can see, there is no reason for 
alarm. Several little birds are flying about, and apparently enjoy- 
ing the commotion of the water. As I looked at them, several 
times to-day, I thought of the words of our Saviour, "Not one of them 
falleth to the ground without your heavenly Father. Will he not 
much more save you, O ye of little faith !" It is pleasant to be 
thus reminded of the presence of our all-gracious God. 

In consequence of this gale, we have made in twenty-four hours 
more than two hundred and fifty miles ; the best day's work, Cap- 
tain L. says, he has ever made. We shall also be in the longitude 
of the Cape to-day, making this the most speedy of the seven voy- 
ages he has made round it. Surely the winds and the waves have 
had charge over us. The air is cool, but we are all in fine spirits, 
and none of us sea-sick in the least. Owing to the motion of the 
ship, it was almost impossible to sit on a chair, and after several 
expedients, we took the long cushion off the transom, and laid it 
down on the floor, and sat on it somewhat a la Turque; yet even 
then we could scarcely keep our seats, but were several times slid- 
ing off to the other side of the cabin. It was, as you may sup- 
pose, rather an amusing scene. 

Tuesday, March 22d. The waves were even higher than yes- 
terday, and were much broken, so that to look out astern, or off 
from the side of the ship, there seemed to be a large number of 
rocky hills in the sea, and the ship was making her way over and 
between them. I have seen nothing so grand since the voyage 



100 MEMOIR OP "WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

commenced. The waves would mount up twenty feet or more, 
and burst into a wide sheet of foam ; while still further off, the 
white foaming tops of others would lift themselves up in the hori- 
zon, and the constant dashing and roaring of the waves combined 
together to fill the mind with exalted ideas of Him, who holds the 
waters in the hollow of his hands, and stilleth the noise of their 
waves. " An undevout astronomer is mad," but surely a careless 
sailor is worse: with the tokens of God's power and presence every- 
where around him, one would think he could not move a muscle 
without thinking of his Maker and Preserver. Yet, alas ! he does 
not like to retain God in his knowledge. But though the scene 
was grand, it was not very comfortable on board. Such constant 
rolling and tossing and pitching of the ship, made it almost impos- 
sible to study ; and it was very fatiguing either to sit, stand, or 
walk. To lie down was useless, unless one was bolstered up on 
both sides. We had quite a scene at the table. One of the ladies, 
just before sitting down, had been thrown, by a sudden and violent 
lurch, clear across the cabin ; and had she not managed to catch 
by the door, would have gone headlong into the pantry. As it 
was, she sprained her arm slightly. After we sat down, w T e had 
another sudden roll, and the salt-cellar turned over between Mr. 
K. and myself; then the milk jug emptied about half its contents 
into the butter dish, and the bread and plates and knives and forks 
began to look about them, as if they thought of going overboard. 
It then became quiet again, and we thought we should have some 
peace, when another roll came along, and each one seized all he 
or she could lay hold of, and sat a.nd looked at the other articles 
flying about the table. I went to bed quite tired, and having a 
cushion at my back to keep me from banging against the side of 
my berth, managed to sleep pretty well. 

Thursday, March 24th. The wind began to freshen last night 
after dark, and at eight o'clock all hands were called, and a reef 
taken in, in the main-sail and the top-sail, and the fore-top-gal- 
lant-sail was furled. Turned in at my usual hour, but was wa- 
kened about one in the morning by an exceedingly heavy shower, 
which beat down on deck with an amazing force. I did not yet 
get up, but soon found by the motion that the wind had risen, and 
the ship rolled exceedingly. 

I think the sailing of the albatross is one of the most beautiful 
sights I have ever seen, and when several of them are together, it 
is really grand. The other day I saw eight of the largest size 
close together, and they flew up and down, and one way and the 
other, and in circles, and crossed each other's paths so rapidly, that 
the eye could hardly follow them in their flight. They move with 
such perfect ease, and have such complete command over their 
motions — at one time darting off like an arrow from a bow full 
bent, then slowly rising in the air and floating almost motionless 
in the sky, then careering round the ship when at her full speed, 
as if contemning her comparative sluggishness, — I have watched 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 101 

them by the hour. The beauty of their motions amply compen- 
sates for what may be. called the ungracefulness of their bodies. 
I do not think their shape handsome, though doubtless it is the 
best for then modes of life. How pleasant it is for the Christian 
to think, when he looks at these birds, that they are not beings in 
which he need feel no interest : they are made by his best friend, 
and he sees in them new proofs of the wisdom and goodness of 
God. It is transporting to be able to say, " My Father made 
them all." 

Saturday, 26th. Last night we had a strong wind, which kept the 
ship steady. This afternoon the wind gently died away ; for an 
hour we had a perfect calm. The ocean, however, even in the most 
perfect calms, is never still. The surface may become glassy, but 
there is a constant heaving ; and commonly, in calms, we see what 
Edwards calls " continual, infinitely various, successive changes 
of unevenness on the surface of the water." The sun is setting 
in a cloudy sky, and we shall probably have a gale in a very 
short time. 

Monday, 28th. Yesterday we had a fine breeze all day, though 
rather too much ahead. The ship pitched a good deal, which 
made some of our company feel quite unpleasant. Preached on 
John iii. 6. The mizzen rigging had been set up the day before, 
and there was no creaking. I found it a little difficult to stand 
steadily, when the ship pitched, but in other respects was very 
well placed, and the services were attended to as well as I have 
seen them before. I have no doubt, however, some of my hearers 
would think it was " a hard saying," though I heard no remarks. 

Numerous stormy petrels were flying about the ship in the fore- 
noon, but our expected storm did not come. The air, however, 
was exceedingly damp all day and all this morning. It is now, 
however, clearing away, and the sun is shining very pleasantly. 

Tuesday, 29th. The sail we saw yesterday is out of sight now. 
We have walked away from her, and made five degrees of longi- 
tude in twenty-four hours. It is remarkable how fond a whole 
ship's company are of praising a good ship : the captain says, 
" The Huntress steers like a duck ;" Mr. K., " We had a famous 
run last night ;" one of the boys, " The Huntress can't be beat ;" 
mate, " What better than this would any one want ?" The fog 
and mist came down again last night like small rain ; they call it 
a Scotch mist. It is caused by the northerly wind, which we have 
had for several days ; the wind becomes charged with vapors in 
the warm latitudes north of this, which become visible in this cool 
place ; though for several days past, owing to some north wind, 
the weather has been very pleasant. 

I suppose Roberts is to-day finishing his last session but one at 
College. I can hardly realize that it is five years since I was in 
the same situation. It. was just a^little before that, perhaps two 
or three months, that I had decided to be a missionary. What 
shall happen in the next five years ? I am beginning to feel pretty 



102 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

strongly the responsibility resting upon me, in my first movements 
in China, and could wish I were safely landed at Singapore. The 
rest of our passengers are talking with great animation of Angier, 
and the delicious fruits, &c, which Mr. K. tells them they shall 
find there. We hope to be at Angier in two or three weeks. Mrs. 
G. talks most of Hong Kong, where her husband is, and of home. 

'•'• Home ! thy joys are passing lovely, 
Joys no stranger heart can tell ; 
Happy home ! 't is sure I love thee, 
Yet to thee Vve said farewell." 

Yet it may be, that I alone of this ship's crew shall ever see home 
again ; who knows 7 But I do not wish that it should be so. 

Saw a very large flock of stormy petrels to-day ; also saw a very 
large albatross rising high in the air, and hovering with his bill 
to the wind ; also saw the clouds to the north in a position which 
sailors call an " eye." All these, the mate says, are signs of an ap- 
proaching gale. The wind is rising some, the barometer failing a 
little, and the spray frequently dashing over the ship's side. We 
shall see whether the signs are true or not. 

Friday, April 1st. This has been a cold, unpleasant day. Heavy 
clouds almost all the time, and though no rain, yet so damp that 
my hands had a cold clammy moisture on them all the time. 
Everything felt damp and chilly. The wind was very strong ever 
since yesterday evening, and we have come two hundred and sev- 
enty miles in twenty-four hours. In six days we have run four- 
teen hundred and twelve miles, and all with one wind. No one 
on board this ship ever saw such sailing. At the same time the 
wind has been so steady, that there has been comparatively little 
motion in the ship. Surely it is not luck that has thus brought 
us on. 

Saturday, April 2d. About half past five, p. m., yesterday, while 
the wind was as strong as ever, the mate told me it was going to 
change to the opposite side, and " blow great guns." I went into 
my room about six. I had not been there half an hour, before I 
felt the ship rolling from side to side, and on going out, I found 
that the wind had " broken off short," and light puffs of air were 
coming from the opposite quarter. The ship was rolling about 
and making very little progress ; so it continued till about three 
o'clock this morning, when our old wind, or one very much like it, 
came back again, and we are now dashing on as before ; so our 
wise ones were mistaken as to the course of the expected wind. 
But it was certainly very remarkable, that after the wind should 
blow strongly, without a moment's intermission, for six days, it 
should all at once break off, and then after a short interval re-com- 
mence. 

Monday, April 4th. The wi^i began to increase towards even- 
ing on Saturday so much, that we anticipated a rough night. At 
eight, p. m., all hands were called, and a reef taken in the topsails. 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 103 

About eleven, p. m., just as I was falling asleep, I was wakened 
by a loud order, "Furl the maintop-gallant-sail." It was near 
midnight before I got asleep, and I was wakened several times by 
the noise of the men at the ropes. The Sabbath dawned with 
every appearance of an unpleasant day. Soon after breakfast I 
was talking with the mate on deck, and before I well knew it, 
found myself well covered by a shower of spray, much to the 
amusement of Mr. B., who saw me, and of the mate, who having 
himself escaped with a slight sprinkling, said, " I'm very sorry for 
you, Mr. Lowrie, but really, I can't help laughing at you." There 
was too much motion, and too much prospect of a gale, to have 
preaching ; and being cold and damp, it was a very unpleasant 
day. None of us felt very well, and we were all glad to turn in. 
Meanwhile the wind had gone on increasing ; occasionally rain 
fell; barometer falling; captain on deck almost all the time. By 
eight, p. m., all the topsails were close-reefed, and all the upper and 
lighter sails carefully furled. The ship rolled a good deal, and it 
was hard to sleep. About eleven, p. m., I heard the men working 
at the mizzen-topsail-sheets, just above my head, and concluded 
they were furling that sail, a pretty good sign that the gale was 
increasing. Awoke several times afterwards, and always heard 
them working at the ropes ; two or three times knew by the sing- 
ing that all hands were called, and on going out before breakfast 
time, found the gale had so increased that we were lying to, under 
close reefed main-topsail, and main-spencer. Sky overclouded, 
wind whistling, as if our ship was some vast iEolian harp, and 
the sea heaped up around in wild confusion. Very little water, 
however, came over the sides of the ship, and the sun soon came 
out, and made things look more cheerful. Still the wind has 
blown violently all day, and we have lain to, making almost no 
progress, but drifting off to the south. We expected to have seen 
St. Paul's to-day, but the wind has driven us so far out of our 
course, that we shall not probably see it at all. Captain Lovett 
was up and out all last night, and all this forenoon. About noon 
the barometer began to rise. 

About four o'clock the wind having moderated and hauled aft, 
while 1 was writing the above, I heard the order, " Loose the fore- 
topsail." " Good !" thought I, laying down my pen and running 
out. All hands were called ; fore and mizzen-topsails, (close- 
reefed,) fore and mainsails, and fore-topmast-staysails, were set to 
the breeze, and a reef shook out of the main-topsail, and we are 
again on our way, after lying to just twelve hours. So we have 
had a storm. I do not think, however, that the sight has been as 
grand as what we saw ten days ago. It has been a pretty anxious 
time for the officers. Captain L. after being up all night and all 
forenoon, lay down in his berth for about an hour, and then came 
out again. I asked him if he had had any sleep ? " Well, I don't 
know, but I believe I did. Every time the ship made a deep roll, 
;hough, I was awake." 



104 



MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 



Tuesday, April 5th. Strong- breeze and very heavy swell. The 
sea is " troubled, and it cannot rest," but the sun is shining down 
brightly, and we speed on our wajr across the foaming waves. A 
shoal of porpoises were playing about the ship this afternoon. 
The vessel was going nine miles an hour, and dashing the foam 
away in immense volumes, but they played about under her bows 
and in the foam, as if she were at anchor. The mates tried to 
harpoon some of them, but did not succeed. The harpoon went 
into one of them, and he was hauled several feet out of water, but 
the iron did not hold, and he got off. Sailors say the porpoises 
play about that way before a gale of wind. Saw also an albatross 
sailing up very high in the air; another sign. Quite a flock of 
albatrosses showed themselves a little after sunset. I saw seven 
of the largest size flying close together ; but it was too cold to 
stand and watch them. 

Thursday, April 7th. Yesterday was a very pleasant day, though 
rather cool ; sun shone all day, and a moderate wind carried us 
gently on. To-day the wind is strong, and in fact is increasing 
so that we have had a reef taken in each of the topsails, and all 
the sails above furled. The wind is so nearly ahead, that we 
cannot keep our course, but are going more to the northward than 
is desirable. It is surprising to see in how many different direc- 
tions one can go with the same wind, or how one may make winds 
that blow in opposite directions send him forward in the same 
course. This is done by shifting the yards, so that the sails may 
obtain the full benefit of the different breezes. Thus, one going 
from west to east, as we are. can proceed with any one of the 

winds represented by the arrows 
A, B, C, &c, to G. Of these 
winds, C and E are the best, be- 
cause they strike all the sails, 
while a wind from D would not. 
Pilot boats can go with the wind 
H and J, i. e. within " four points ;" 
ships cannot go within " six 
points." Each of the quadrants 
above are supposed to be divided 
into eight points, as in the mari- 
ner's compass. The wind we 
have to-day is G, or S. S. E. I'm 
at a loss to know how you will 
receive this disquisition. If you did not know these things before, 
I take it for granted you will be glad to learn them ; but if you 
did, then I beg pardon for troubling you on the subject. 

Saturday, April 9th. After rather a restless night, owing to the 
ship's rolling so much, I went out in the morning and found all 
sails set, and studding-sails out; so we are "out of the woods 
now," with a fair prospect before us. This has been a very pleas- 
ant day, though our course has been rather slower than usual. 



j\r 




JOURNAL AT SEA. 105 

However, " we are glad, because we be quiet," and hope soon to 
be brought to our " desired haven." 

Sabbath, April 10th. A most beautiful day. The sun has been 
shining out of a blue sky, upon a still deeper blue ocean, and the 
light fleecy clouds have hung around the sky as if delighted spec- 
tators of the peaceful scene. Although not going rapidly, we have 
still gone fast enough to leave no room for impatience, and con- 
sequently nearly all are in a good humor. 

Preached on John iii. 3 : the nature and necessity of regenera- 
tion ; and was very attentively listened to. The mate told me 
afterwards he was talking with " Boston Bill" about my sermon, 
and asked him if he did not think there was a great deal of truth 
in it. He answered, " he believed there was ;" but he quoted from 
my sermon the remark, that Christians would try to do good to 
others, and then said, "Now I've been with men who said they 
were Christians, and yet they were trying to injure others all the 
time." This is one of the many excuses men make for continuing 
in impenitence. Another that has equal weight with the better 
educated part of our company is, that " Christians are always 
quarrelling among themselves." I think I shall prepare a sermon 
on the text, " And they all began with one consent to make ex- 
cuse." Bible class as usual in the afternoon ; so pass away our 
Sabbaths. I sometimes wish I could again go up to the sanctuary 
with the great congregation ; but I find that that God, who is 
" the confidence of all the ends of the earth," is also the confidence 
" of them that are far off upon the sea." I have taken " the wings 
of the morning and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea." Yet, 
even here ! " His hand leads me, and his right hand upholds me." 
What a glorious thing it is to serve such a God ! to be able to say, 
" This God is our God forever and ever !" 

Tuesday, April 12th. Pleasant weather still. A sail in sight 
about two o'clock ; soon came near enough to make out that she 
was a whaler. She ran up the star-spangled banner, and we the 
same ; presently she crossed our bows, and coming, or rather fall- 
ing nearer, ran up her flag again — a sign that she wanted to speak ; 
so we took in all our light sails, and put the yards round so as to 
make the ship go slower, and she came up astern, but in speak- 
ing distance. Asked us where we were from, and if we had any 
papers to spare. Captain answered, " Yes," and we held on till 
her boat could come alongside. They speedily lowered one, and 
half a dozen men jumped down into it, and came dancing over the 
waves to us. Their boat was sometimes almost hidden by the 
waves, but they did not seem to mind them at all. They were 
soon alongside, and their mate and a couple of men came up on 
deck. They were rough -looking customers compared with our 
crew, though the latter were in their every-day dress. It was the 
ship Palladium, of New Bedford ; out eight months ; had 1000 bar- 
rels of oil from sixteen whales ; had not seen land for four months ; 
had been south among the icebergs ; were going to New Holland 



106 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

soon ; crew of thirty men. I asked the mate if they had any 
books. " Well, yes, some ; but what we have, have been read 
pretty often." Captain gave him two or three dozen of news- 
papers, and I hastily wrapped up a handful of Tracts, and Dod- 
dridge's " Rise and Progress," and Pike's " Religion and Eternal 
Life," and with a silent prayei* for a blessing on them, gave them 
to him. He then asked the captain if he could spare them any 
vegetables ; and got a keg full of potatoes and onions, &c., and 
then off again. They have men constantly aloft, one at the fore 
and one at the main-mast-head, who are relieved every two hours. 
In this way they saw us several hours before we saw them. I 
ought to have said above, that before I had fully decided to offer 
any tracts, Mr. Gillespie asked me " Where my tracts were," 
for which stirring up of my mind by way of remembrance, I was 
very grateful. He had fixed up a small bundle for such an occa- 
sion himself, but could not find it at the time ; so he wrapped up 
a few in a "Pictorial Brother Jonathan," and told the mate of the 
other vessel to " put that in his hat." I asked the man if they 
had any Bibles on board. " Oh, yes ! we belong to a strong tem- 
perance concern." As our captain says, "I would like to lean 
over their fore-scuttle at night, and hear what those old fellows 
will say of us." Unless our crew informed their men otherwise, 
they will probably imagine that there are two young missionaries 
in this ship, Mr. B. and myself, with their wives ! The men 
seemed greatly embarrassed by the appearance of our ladies, as 
they were in their every-day dress, which, in their occupation, is 
necessarily a very ordinary-looking one ; and the perfect cleanness 
of our ship would contrast strongly with their oil-stained, weather- 
worn vessel. 

You can hardly conceive the pleasure such a rencontre gives to 
one who, for three months, has seen only the same faces and the 
same scenes. It seems to expand the feelings that have become 
contracted to our own little sphere, and to connect us once more 
with the great world of mankind, some of whose representatives 
we have just met. We all seem to be in better spirits, and to talk 
as if under the influence of some excitement. Numberless are the 
conjectures we have formed already, of their feelings and occupa- 
tions, &c. But it's late, past ten, p. m. with us, though it is hardly 
noon with you, and I am too sleepy to pen anything more. — Good 
night. 

Wednesday morning, April 13th. Dreamed last night that I 
was just leaving home, that you had all come down to the ship 
except sister Mary, who could not bear the idea of saying farewell 
under such circumstances, and would not come down. We were 
about to exchange the last words, when I awoke, and was glad to 
find that I had not again to undergo the pain of parting. I sup- 
pose my dream was caused by having seen the vessel yesterday, 
which carried my mind back to the country from which we both 
came. 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 107 

I believe "the mind is always thinking ; even when we sleep and 
do not remember it afterwards, we have been thinking. Now the 
dream I had this morning occurred just while I was awaking, and 
was probably the close of a great many flights of fancy of a similar 
kind. Wonder what I was thinking of all night ; how many visits 
I paid you all ; and how many old scenes came up before my mind. 
Shall I ever know? Can it be possible that all these thoughts 
that pass in the night, and we do not recollect them, are forever 
gone? Perhaps in another world we may recognize, among the 
sensations we shall then experience, some that have visited us, " in 
the visions of the night, when deep sleep falleth upon us." Who 
knows but that the ideas, that in some favored seasons gush up so 
copiously in our minds, are but transcripts of our unremembered 
meditations ? I was laying out the plan of a sermon yesterday on 
the text " and they all with one consent," (fee, and scarcely ever 
found my ideas flow so readily. I know I was dreaming of that 
subject only a night or two before, for I recollect of answering, in 
my sleep, an objection against the doctrine of election, made by 
one of our company. Who knows how much our conduct is shaped 
during the day by the impressions our dreams in the night, even 
though we knew not that we dreamed, may have left upon our 
minds ? But I beg pardon. I had no idea of philosophizing in 
this way. I wonder if this disquisition is the transcript of some 
metaphysical train of thought I had in some of my dreams lately. 
It certainly came unexpectedly, " from mine own heart, so to my 
head, and thence into my fingers trickled. Then to my pen, from 
whence immediately on paper I did it dribble daintily." As honest 
John Bunyan says of a much more instructive dream. 

Friday, 15 th March. A strong breeze was blowing all day yes- 
terday, and had not the news been almost too good to be true, we 
should have thought it the south-east trade. However, it continues 
to-day, and there can be little doubt that we have the looked-for 
wind. Thus we are going gaily on our course, without having to 
beat about among the variable winds that are commonly found 
between the regular western winds in Lat. 40° and the trade-wind, 
which commonly is taken in Lat. 28° south. We had anticipated 
being delayed thus for three or four days, whereas we had no 
sooner lost the western winds, than this wind took us up. These 
are very curious things. In Lat. 40° north and south, and for 
several degrees on each side, the wind blows from the west almost 
constantly ; from about 30° to 10° or 5°, north and south, they 
blow from the north-east and south-east respectively ; these are the 
north-east and south-east trades. On each side of the equator for 
a few degrees, variable winds prevail ; and commonly between the 
western winds and the trade-winds there is a space of several de- 
grees where the winds vary a good deal. It has been by these 
regular winds that we have made the greatest part of our voyage. 



103 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

^EW YORK 

~* ""W ES-T-E RLY WINDS f 

VABIABLE\WINDS 

)■■///, 
N.E.TRADE WINDS / 

'■$/: 

VARIABLE/WINDS EPUATOB 

..-■' ANGIEFV, 

yS . E./TRADE WINDS "*\ N/V^S 

^ ''\\ \ S.E.TRADE/WINDS 



V&/G00DH0PE /' ^ 



VARIABLE--.WINDS 



WESTERLY WINDS 



Excuse the rudeness of my diagram. The line sketches roughly 
our course from New York to Angier. We first came well to the 
east, by the regular westerly winds ; then south-east across the 
north-east trade. Then crossing the equator with variable winds, we 
ran off well to the westward, across the south-east trade. Then 
after going as we could for several days among changing winds, 
we struck the great south range of westerly winds, which brought 
us from Long. 20° W. to Long. 90° E., nearly 6000 miles. One 
breeze alone during that part of our voyage carried us 1430 miles 
in six days and two hours. The arrows in my diagram mark the 
course of the regular winds. 

What grand things these winds are ! Just to think of one 
breeze blowing steadily for days together over a space of a thou- 
sand or fifteen hundred miles, ruffling the surface of the old ocean, 
and playing with a giant strength among his hoary locks ! And 
then when the rain comes down in wide-spread torrents, and the 
voice of the thunder sounds along the waves, how does the gran- 
deur of the scene put to shame our bellows and our watering-pots, 
our mimic experiments, and our boasted inventions for controlling 
the laws of nature ! Who can talk of the greatness of man, when 
surrounded by such proofs of the omnipresent power of God ? True, 
it is a wonderful thing to see a little ship urge onward her course 
among such mighty elements, and some may say, " Behold here 
ihe power of man ! superior to the winds and the waves." But 
who filled man's heart with the wisdom to invent and guide a 
vessel over such abysses, amid such contending forces? He may 
laugh when it is calm, but when storms arise, and he is " at his 
wits' end," he will acknowledge that there is a God who reigneth 
in the earth ; and, blessed be his name ! he is " Our Father" 

Saturday, April 16th. In the torrid zone again. Warm in the 



JOURNAL AT SEA. . 109 

sun, and extremely pleasant in the shade. Our old friends the 
albatrosses left us several days ago. I do not recollect seeing any 
large ones since last Tuesday, the day we spoke the whaler. 
To-day we are within six hundred miles of New Holland. Our 
course now is nearly north. " Sail, O !" Another ship coming 
this way, a whaler ; passes about five miles off, and runs up the 
star-spangled banner, or " Gridiron" as the sailors call it. No 
time to stop ; in an hour she is out of sight. A dull life they 
must have of it. Cruising about for months at a time, and not 
seeing a whale ; nothing in the world to do. 

Saturday night, ten o'clock. We are now directly on the oppo- 
site side of the globe from you, or within one degree of it, so that 
with you it is ten, a. m. Saturday night ! and the Sabbath draws 
near. If I could spend every week as pleasantly as I have spent 
the past, I could rejoice in long life ; but it is pleasant to think, 
that there remaineth — after all the privileges of this world — still, 
" there remaineth, over and above them all, a rest — a aaGSaTia/Liog, 
— a keeping of Sabbath, for the people of God." Rest is sweet ; 
and O, to think of rest from sin, rest from temptation, rest from 
disappointment, rest from sorrow, rest in the peaceful haven after 
long toiling over the uncertain, restless ocean, and long struggling 
with adverse winds ! Surely it is well we have thus to labor and 
to suffer, it will make the end more joyful. Yet it is hard at times 
to resist the desire to " fly away and be at rest." But it is well 
that the all- wise God holds " our times in his hands." He will 
give the signal when it is the best time to cease from labor, and 
therefore — 

" Here my spirit waiting stands 
Till He shall bid it fly." 

Sabbath, April 17th. A dull, rainy Sabbath, with a light wind ; 
pleasant enough, however, in other respects. Saw a flock of fly- 
ing fish, the first I have seen for several weeks. Cleared off 
beautifully before sunset, and the trade-wind came back again 
strongly. 

Preached on Luke xiv. 18, " And they all began with one con- 
sent to make excuse." Spoke of the principal excuses men make 
for not repenting and believing : as, 1. " I have not time." 2. 
" Religion is a gloomy thing, and a hard and mean service." 3. 
" The Bible is so hard to be understood, and some of its doctrines, 
as election, &c, so absurd." 4. " Christians are hypocrites, and 
there are so many sects, so that there is no truth in religion." 5. 
" There's time enough yet — I do not mean to die so." The atten- 
tion generally was better than I have yet seen among the men, 
and several of them I observed watching me very closely all the 
time. I understood they had rather an argument about the ser- 
mon afterwards in the forecastle, though I did not hear the pur- 
port of it. Yet, alas ! it seems almost hopeless to preach to these 
people. Like the prophet of old, I seem to be " in the midst of the 
valley of bones, and, to, they are very dry. Can these dry bones 



110 . MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

live 7 Lord God, thou knowest." Yet in his name would I 
"prophesy upon these bones, and say unto them, ye dry bones, 
hear ye the word of the Lord." And I wculd also "prophesy tc 
the winds, and say, Come from the four winds, O breath, and 
breathe upon these slain." I wonder if Christians at home, who 
know that a missionary is on his way to the heathen, ever think 
of praying that he may be a blessing - to the almost heathenish 
sailors, as he sails with them week after week. How little suc- 
cess would commonly attend the minister's labor at home, if he 
had not the prayers of his people to assist him ! Yet in cases of 
this kind, the missionary most commonly stands alone, and has 
to preach to some who scarcely know what are the very first prin- 
ciples of Christianity — to some who, like one of our crew, " have 
not had a Bible for many years, nor heard a prayer for seven 
years ;" to some who, like another, know not that there is any 
difference between the " faith the devils have," and the faith that 
" works by love, and purifies the heart ;" to some who, like ano- 
ther, think that " if a man goes to church, he is safe enough," and 
that " those Christians are mistaken, who say that men are nat- 
urally averse to religion ;" to men rendered reckless of danger by 
long familiarity with it ; who will curse and swear when out in a 
little boat on a raging sea, seeking if they may find a comrade 
who had just fallen overboard in a dark night. This is a fact 
that occurred in this ship on the last voyage ! — to say nothing of 
the evil habits they acquire on shore, and the evil examples they 
there see, and of the effects these must have upon them. They 
have long felt that " no man cared for their souls," and they make 
this an additional excuse for continuing as they are. Surely it is 
" casting bread upon the waters" to preach to such. Yet God is 
all-powerful, and some things that have come to my knowledge 
of late, make me think that the Holy Spirit has not yet left this 
ship's company to themselves. 

Monday, April l&th. Getting ready to go ashore, i. e., the ship 
is. The men have been at work most of this day getting the 
guns up out of the hold and mounting them. They were stowed 
away below shortly after leaving New York. Being quite heavy, 
it took several men to hoist them up out of the hold, and they 
raised the song of " Cheerily, oh cheerily," several times. This 
is a favorite song with the seamen. One acts as leader, and in- 
vents as he goes along, a sentence of some six or eight syllables, 
no matter what. To-day some of the sentences were, " Help me 
to sing a song ;" " Now all you fine scholars ;" " You must excuse 
me now," &c. ; then comes in a semi-chorus " Cheerily oh !" then 
another sentence, and a full chorus, " Cheerily oh ^wx^wwwv 
cheerily." Just imagine the sounds and music of that waving 
line ! The song is exciting, and heard at the distance of the 
ship's length is very beautiful. I have just now been listening to 
music of another kind. The sea is smooth, all is quiet, and we 
are sailing on at eight miles an hour, and as the ship cuts her 



JOURNAL AT SEA. Ill 

way through the water and throws away the waves from her 
bows, she makes a soft and pleasant sound. We are now going 
directly north. The Great Bear again appears in our sky, and 
we shall hope soon to see the Polar star. 

Tuesday, April 19th. Warm, sultry day, and several heavy 
showers. What is the use of rain on the sea? why should the 
water, after having been so carefully drawn up by the sun, be 
poured down again to the place from which it came? Surely this 
was all foreseen by him who causes the rain to fall, and he had 
some design in it. It is hardly a sufficient answer to say, that 
these showers at sea are of great service to sailors, for vast quan- 
tities fall where no ships are, and fell for thousands of years be- 
fore ships sailed over the ocean. Yet surely they are of use. I 
have been puzzling my brain for a long time to find out the final 
cause, as theologians say, of this phenomenon, but I fear with 
very little success. Perhaps fresh water is as necessary for the 
inhabitants of the sea, as salt is for us along with our food. Per- 
haps those winds which, after sweeping for so many thousands of 
miles over the salt water, and in such hot climates as this, need 
to be purified and to have their unwholesome qualities thus ac- 
quired removed, by having the rain come and pass through them, 
filtering away, if I may use such a figure, their impurities, before 
they blow upon the land or influence at all the air men breathe. 
Who knows what influences are necessary to preserve the atmos- 
phere of the earth in its purity ? — and what part of those influ- 
ences is excited by the rains that fall on land, and at sea, and " in 
the wilderness where no man is ?" But this is one of the " things 
that are too wonderful for me." Men pass over such things often- 
times as uninteresting, because of their ignorance of what is 
really in them. So it is in regard to everything. We are often 
told that the life of such and such men is uninteresting, void of 
incidents, and dull. Professors of rhetoric, and critics, tell us 
that only great subjects and the lives of great men, furnish suita 
ble themes for an epic poem. But surely the life of every man, 
however poor and mean he may be, could we but know it all, 
would furnish such a subject for an epic poem as would astonish 
even Homer and Milton. There would be the secret counsels of 
God respecting him from all eternity ; the unnumbered and al- 
most the innumerable incidents in his birth and in his after life, 
when good and evil angels watched over and influenced him, and 
when the providence of God was busied about him ; the narrow 
escapes from evil; the woful falls, or the triumphant victory; all 
the feelings in his own mind, and their varied causes ; the plans 
of others with respect to him, and their influence over him ; the 
effects of his actions, outlasting his own life, and reaching far off 
amidst almost infinite ramifications to the end of time ; the vari- 
ous crisises of his life ; and the endless realities of the eternal 
state. What created intellect could fully comprehend, or rightly 
describe, all these ? God knoweth them all. We hardly ever 



1 12 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

even think of them, and yet our whole life is spent in influencing 
and being influenced by such wonderful beings. Verily this is a 
fearful and a wonderful thing. 

About sunset the ship was very nearly becalmed ; her motion 
was barely perceptible ; and I was leaning over the gangway, 
looking down at the little bubbles on the deep blue sea. While 
thus engaged, my attention was arrested by a number of little in- 
sects, no longer than the gnat you sometimes see sporting in the 
evening air. They moved about over the calm surface of the 
water with great rapidity, just as the little water-bugs and spiders 
play about in the eddy of a brook in summer. Where do these 
little creatures come from? whither do they go? where shelter 
themselves when storms arise ? Or are they like ourselves, mere 
creatures of a day, floating about on the fathomless ocean of 
eternity, one moment sportive and busy, and cherishing great 
hopes, the next swallowed up by the dark waters, and seen no 
more ?* 

It was a lovely night, calm and clear, a few clouds in the sky ; 
but the moon shone down brightly, and the large stars beamed 
out, like a queen in her royal robes with her maids of honor around 
her. Underneath was the boundless sea, quiet and smooth — " a 
great still mirror-sea." and the moonbeams and starlight were re- 
flected back from the surface of the water. But how different the 
direct and the reflected light ! The one came down and gave a 
clear image of the heavenly bodies ; thus we see the glory of God 
in the face of Jesus Christ. But the other was distorted and bro- 
ken by the constant swell of even that calm sea ; so it is with all 
our views of things in the invisible heavens. If our faith can only 
gaze steadfastly thereon, our hearts will burn within us ; but the 
moment we turn our sight to earthly things our vision becomes 
confused, and we see no more clearly ; at best it is but " through 
a glass darkly." I could hardly think of going to bed ; again and 
again as I turned off to retire, a new appearance of beauty or a 
brightly shining star arrested my attention, and kept me under 
the open sky. Once the moon was slightly obscured by a white 
cloud, that passed like a veil over her face ; but that only made 
her more beautiful, for immediately a triple circle was formed 
around her, of white, bright orange, and pale green. 

Saturday, April 23d. Raining almost all the night. Towards 
four o'clock this morning I awoke ; it was pouring down heavy. 
Several very loud claps of thunder, that came roaring and reverbera- 
ting over the waters, reminded me of the words of the Psalmist : 

" The voice of the Lord is upon the waters : 
The God of glory thundereth ; 
The Lord is upon many waters. 
The voice of the Lord is powerful ; 
The voice of the Lord is full of majesty." 

* " Light mortal, how you walk your light life minuet, over bottomless abysses, di- 
vided from you by a film."— Carlvle. 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 113 

About half-past eight, a. m.. just after breakfast, the captain 
shouted, " Land O !" and Christmas Island was in sight. We 
were about twenty miles off, and have not at anytime to-day been 
near enough to see it very closely. Its form is very well defined 
against the sky; looks steep, and very long. About an hour after 
seeing the* island, Bennet called to me, " Mr. Lowrie, just come 
and see how sweet the island smells/' I went out, and, sure 
enough, there was a very perceptible odor, somewhat, though not 
very much, like what one perceives in a large pine forest, though 
I think rather sweeter. However, I felt rather incredulous, for, 
though the breeze was blowing pretty fast off the island, yet we 
were nearly twenty miles off, and I could hardly believe it possi- 
ble. So I went and examined the rails of the ship, to see that no 
mixture had been put there to create the deception. It is said 
that persons going to Ceylon are often deceived in this way, by 
having oil of cinnamon sprinkled on the ship's side. However, 
there was no mistake. The odor evidently came from the cocoa- 
nut trees on the island, and I stood and snuffed it for a while with 
great satisfaction. The island is in Lat. 10° 32' S., and Long. 
105° 33' E., according to some of the Geographers, and about nine 
miles square, uninhabited, save by the birds, and some wild hogs> 
and having no anchorage. It is about two hundred and ten miles 
from Java Head, and two hundred and sixty or two hundred and 
eighty from Angier, at which latter place we shall not probably 
arrive for two or three days yet. I feel strongly inclined, if I can 
get an opportunity, to go from Angier direct to Singapore. If I 
go to China, it will take most probably three months from the 
present time to get to Singapore. Indeed, the captain thinks I 
cannot get to Singapore until October, owing to the Monsoon, 
which will be directly against me. 

I am in a good deal of uncertainty what to do. My instructions 
are to go to China : but it will never do to wait there until Octo- 
ber, or even the end of August. This is one of the cases in which 
two are better than one. 

About sunset the island bore away off to the west, and we lost 
sight of it. Several boobies alighted on the ship, one on the end 
of the flying jib-boom, another on the mizzen-royal-yard, and 
another, more bold, sat down on the railing at the stern. The 
first one was caught, at which inhospitable treatment he showed 
great wrath, and bit one of the boys on the leg, uttering some very 
singular cries, which I know not how to describe to you. They 
were somewhat like the creaking of a chest lid, that had not been 
opened for a long time, though not so sharp. He afforded great 
amusement to the boys, particularly Chun Sing, who, in the 
height of his glee, came to the cabin door, and called out, "Do you 
want any boobies here V This one was black above, and white 
beneath ; some are all white. He measured four feet nine inches 
from tip to tip of wing, and I suppose about fifteen or eighteen 
inches from bill to tail. Each wing was more than two feet long - . 



114 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

If the next day had not been the Sabbath, I should have asked 
them to keep him, that we might examine him more closely. 
They soon let him go. 

Sabbath, April 24th. A most delightful day, perfectly charming, 
except that we were almost becalmed. An English* ship and 3 
Dutch brig were close at hand all day. Preached on Matt, xi 
28-30 ; " Come unto me, all that labor and are heavy-laden," &c, 
with more fluency and satisfaction, and with an attentive audi- 
ence. It has been to me one of the pleasantest days I have yet 
spent, for though wearied and heavy-laden, with a body of flesh 
and a sinful heart, I have " found rest to my soul." 

Tuesday, April 26th. Heavy showers, with thunder and light- 
ning, both yesterday morning and this ; three ships in sight all the 
time ; making tolerable progress ; saw an immense number of 
boobies yesterday, and several kinds of fish. Several of the boo- 
bies, great boobies they were, came to the ship for a night's lodg- 
ing, whereupon three of them were seized and put into a vacant 
hen-coop to pass the night. We had them out on deck this morn- 
ing, but they could hardly walk, and could not -raise themselves 
from the deck, their legs being very weak, owing to want of exer- 
cise. They have two joints in their wings, besides the joint that 
connects the wing to the body. An albatross is said to have sev- 
eral joints in each wing. They are of two colors, dark brown, 
and white, with black pointed wings ; probably the colors respect- 
ively of the male and female. The white ones have purple bills, 
straight, and about two inches long. They were very fierce, 
snapped at everything and everybody, and took hold of my hat 
quite viciously when I held it out to them. We let them go again 
without farther injury. One of them by some accident had lost a 
leg ; but this, I suppose, with their habits, is not so serious an in- 
jury as it would be to many other birds. Several large dragon- 
flies were flying about the ship to-day, though we must have been 
forty miles from land when we first saw them. Caught a dolphin 
to-day, but I did not see him when dying, and if I had, you have 
heard enough of the colors. 

We have been expecting to see land all day, as we cannot be 
far from Java Head, which, in clear weather is visible fifty miles ; 
but the horizon has been hazy all day, and not seeing land before 
dark, we have been obliged to take in sail, and may have to heave 
to before morning. It is interesting to see how every one has been 
"looking out" all day : men up at the mast-head every half-hour; 
captain with his spy-glass ; cook looking over the side ; Chun 
Sing sitting on the rail ; and passengers and men looking earnestly 
to the north-east ; but our eyes have failed with looking to-day. 
We hope to be in the Straits of Sunda by daylight. 

Wednesday, 27th. Sat up till about eleven, and just as I was going 
to bed. heard " Land O !" However it was far off, and as there 
was little prospect of entering the straits before morning, I went 
to bed, but couH not sleep. About twelve o'clock, heard the cap- 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 115 

tain sing out, " Loose the main-royal," " get out the fore-topmast- 
studding-sail." I could not tell what to make of this, for at dark 
he had taken in sail, and said he would take in more. Accord- 
ingly I jumped up and went out, and there sure enough was the 
high land of Palambang Point right ahead, and a noble breeze 
carrying us right on. The captain said we should enter the straits 
between two and three o'clock, so I went to take a nap before that 
time. I was amused at Chun Sing ; he was up, as bright as a lark, 
sitting on the forecastle, and looking eagerly at the land ; no doubt, 
as he said, very glad to be so near home. At half-past two the 
captain called me, and going out, I found we were just coming in 
at the north of the strait, between Java and Prince's Island. Mr. 
K. and Mr. B. were out, and the ladies soon came also. The land 
was about a mile and a quarter off, and we could snuff the fresh 
breeze as it came off from the land, and hear the deep, constant, 
steady, heavy swell and roar of the breakers, sounding like the 
rushing of Niagara. The ladies declared that the scent of the 
trees was like the smell of honeysuckles or clover. The cook was 
up and got a cup of strong coffee for each of us, and all were in high 
spirits. The captain said it was " first-rate," not the coffee, but 
our success. A ship that was a little ahead of us last night, was 
fairly in the straits, while one that had been about two miles 
astern at sunset, was now clear out of sight, and we were boasting 
of having " run away from her ;" but alas, what a disappointment 
did we meet ! Just as we came along by Java Head, which is 
very high, the wind came out ahead, and we had to cross Prince's 
Strait, nearly to Prince's Island, where we were almost becalmed. 
Meanwhile the ship astern came rapidly up with a first-rate breeze, 
came in close along the Java shore, and while we were tacking to 
cross the strait again, (Prince's Strait is only about four miles wide,) 
she passed us within half a mile, with a fair wind, and stood off 
gallantly up the strait, while we, being under the high bluff of 
Java Head, could do nothing. At six o'clock she was ten miles 
ahead, while we were farther out to sea than we had been at three 
o'clock. The wind was before and behind us, but we were almost 
becalmed. 

Meanwhile two ships appeared astern, evidently coming up 
rapidly ; about half-past eight o'clock they showed their colors, 
one English, the other Dutch ; both men-of-war. They were about 
one fourth of a mile off, when suddenly falling under Java Head, 
the wind failed them and their sails hung idly at the mast. We 
had slowly drawn on, and coming opposite New Island, where the 
land on Java is lower, a delightful breeze sprung up, and we walked 
away in fine style. They looked at us for awhile, and then catch- 
ing the breeze, followed on astern. In the course of an hour the 
English brig caught up and fairly beat us. However, she had 
very large sails, much larger in proportion to her size than we, but 
she was a very rusty-looking thing, and as to her men, they were 
eo dirty, our second mate said that if he were there he would jump 



116 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

overboard ! They certainly were not to be compared to our men 
in point of neatness. The Dutchman sailed well, but could not 
overtake us ; so up the straits we sailed in noble style for four 
hours, sailing within two miles of the Java shore, and seeing the 
high peaks of Prince's Island, Crockatoa, (which the sailors call 
Cockatoo,) and Pulo Bessy. The peaks of Crockatoa and Bessy 
are very high mountains, burnt out volcanoes, cloud capt and 
magnificent ; while far beyond in the same direction was the 
high land of Rajat Bassa, on the island of Sumatra. On the 
Java side were the Karang mountains, their tops covered all the 
day with clouds. About one o'clock p. m. we came up opposite 
Third point and found that the three ships, which had got the 
start of us, were quite becalmed, in the middle of the strait, while 
we, in near the Java shore, were proceeding at a rapid rate. 
At dinner time we were congratulating ourselves on having 
beaten those who had that morning stolen such a march on 
us, when all at once the sails hung idly at the mast. The 
captain and mate jumped up and ran out, and soon came in, 
looking rather blank, with the news that we too were becalmed. 
There we lay for four hours, the sun beating down, therm. 89° 
in the shade, and far over 100° in the sun, and not a breath 
of air to speak of. Busied myself preparing my letters. A. but- 
terfly, a wasp, and a bee paid us a visit ; and I often looked 
out to the high shores and receding vales of Java, which reminds 
me strongly of my own native land, and the eastern shores of the 
Hudson. When 1 first saw land last night and thought " the 
heathen live there," my mind was filled with thoughts that made 
me seek to be by myself, rather than with our lively and laughing 
company. 

Being quite becalmed off Third Point we were fain to wait till 
the wind should rise again. There were three ships there before 
us. The Dutchman soon joined company. A large ship soon 
came up the straits afterwards, with sky-sails and studding-sails, 
and made a brave show, but as soon as she came within the 
charmed circle, her sails clung to the masts and she was still. 
We could see her name, she stopped so near, the Oneida of 
New Bedford— which was to leave New York the day after we 
did, and we suppose left the same morning, we sailed from the 
little bay inside of Sandy Hook. Another ship then appeared close 
under Crockatoa Island. Two more soon came in sight, having 
entered the straits by the main channel ; and about four o'clock 
three others hove in sight. So we made twelve ships, barks, and 
brigs, all becalmed within ten miles of each other. It was a beau- 
tiful sight. The English brig was so near that we could hear the 
boatswain's whistle, the bells and the noise of the men at the ropes. 
She was nearest Java shore, and we next. About half-past four 
a light breeze sprung up ; she took it first and sailed off like a bird ; 
we next, but it failed us in five minutes, and we came nearer than 
before. Again it came ; she was still nearest the shore, and got 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 117 

off first. We soon followed, and are now moving off five or six 
miles an hour. The others gradually took the breeze and followed 
on as they could : but the brig and the Huntress are ahead. There 
are nearly a dozen native prows in sight. The brig soon began 
to make signals to a large ship off on the other side of the strait: 
" talked bunting," as they say. We, of course, could not under- 
stand them. 

Altogether it has been an exciting and interesting day. The 
sight of inhabited land, and those inhabitants being heathen ; the 
effort to enter the straits, and failure ; the mortification of seeing 
others pass us with a fair breeze, while we, not half a mile off, were 
becalmed ; then the pleasure of catching up and passing again ; 
the sight of so many ships, and of the native prows ; the smell of 
land ; the sight of noble mountains ; the preparing of letters for 
home : and the lifting up of the heart in gratitude to God, that 
through so many dangers, and along so lengthened a course, he 
has led us and fed us, — surely here will I raise an Ebenezer, for 
hitherto the Lord hath helped me. And then to think, that in 
precisely one year from the day I was first licensed to preach the 
gospel, I was permitted to see the land of nations sitting in dark- 
ness, to some of whom at least I hope to preach the gospel ! Is it 
not a day much to be remembered 1 The host of the enemies are 
numerous and powerful, but I may well use the words of King 
Asa and say, " Lord, it is nothing with thee to help, whether with 
many or with them that have no power ; help us, oh Lord our 
God ; for we rest on thee, and in thy name we go against this 
multitude, Oh, Lord, thou art our God ; let not man prevail 
against thee." 

But if the day had so many things to be remembered, the even- 
ing was still more magnificent. About sunset, we were about 
two miles from shore, directly off from the Karang mountains. 
We were gliding swiftly over the smooth waters ; nine other ships 
of different nations, English, American, and Dutch, were in sight 
on the western side, and six of them in full view. On the other 
side, a dozen Malay prows were hugging the shore. Some shoals 
were to be passed over, which required close watching : dark and 
thick clouds, many and large, were overhead, but most of them 
tinged of the deepest orange and red by the sun's ray's ; high 
mountains, five or six in number, loomed up in various directions, 
and above the highest, Crockatoa, was the darkest mass of clouds; 
but beyond all these was the evening star, " mildly beaming on 
the forehead" of the calm blue sky, diversified and enriched as it 
was with the glorious sunset tints. I looked and gazed with 
almost speechless, certainly with an unutterable admiration ; and 
as the bright colors faded, the ardor of my thoughts subsided to a 
quiet comparison of the varied scene before me, with what may 
perhaps be the course of my future life. What is before, I knew 
not ; but I thought that a swift, though perhaps a long voyage 
over the uncertain sea of life, was before me ; that I should have 



118 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

fellow-laborers, perhaps of different nations, striving together to 
benefit the poor heathen whose representatives we here saw on 
the same sea with ourselves ; that secret dangers might be in my 
way, which it would require prudence and care to avoid ; that 
many sorrows are impending over me, but they shall be tinged 
and beautified with the favor of God ; and thus the 

" Clouds I so much dread, 

Are big with mercies, and shall break 
In blessings on my head ;" 

that difficulties are before me like mountains, and over the great- 
est and the least of them, it may be, the most impenetrable dark- 
ness now overhangs ; but that above them all, shines brightly the 
star of hope ; and, having at last surmounted them all, the peace- 
ful and glorious rest of heaven will open upon my delighted view. 
However I may be mistaken in some of these anticipations, I trust 
and pray that the last may prove true. 

After dark my attention was called to the many fires kindled 
along the coast, probably by the natives, catching fish. They 
looked very cheerfully, after having been for so long without see- 
ing any traces of human beings, except those in our own little 
vessel. 

Thursday morning. Up and out early. Towards nine, p. m., 
on Wednesday, were rather getting behind the other ships ; and 
the wind being very light, and indeed a calm, most of the night, 
we made very little progress ; by daylight, however, we were 
ahead of almost all the other ships. Their number had now in- 
creased to seventeen, fourteen of which were in full view from 
ours, at one time, on one side. The wind being light and con- 
trary, we were obliged to tack frequently, and thus often passed 
near them. About eight o'clock, a. m., the Oneida passed near 
us ; her captain told us he had sailed January 26th. This made 
us start ; caught up with us, who had a week's advantage of them ! 
We did not like the Huntress near so well for that. 

About half-past eleven in the morning, we anchored, nearly a 
mile above Angier. We had almost been run into by the Eng- 
lish brig, which had from the first behaved in a very rude and un- 
gentlemanly manner, and now tried very hard to go ahead of us, 
when there was no necessity for her doing so, as the course she 
was taking would have led her some distance under our stern. I 
fully expected she would come against us, and our captain called 
his men to haul down the spanker, lest her flying jib-boom should 
get entangled in it. However, she fell astern, greatly to the rage 
of her commander, who came to the bow of the brig, and in a voice 
indicative of extreme anger, read our captain a lecture on seaman- 
ship and politeness, saying: "It was your duty to have done so 
and so. If we had both been merchantmen ; but, sir, this is a 
man-of-war." Captain Lovett answered with great moderation ; 
though I could almost have wished that he had " answered the 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 119 

fool according to his folly." We could not have gone under his 
stem without squaring our yards, and he, if he had held on his 
course, would not have come within three ships' lengths of us. In 
his eagerness to get ahead of us, he came so "near the wind," as 
to be almost " taken aback." 

By the time we anchored, there were half a dozen Malay boats 
around us, bringing vegetables, fruit, shells, birds, monkeys, squir- 
rels, mats, &c.j to sell or barter. They could commonly speak only 
a few words of English, and talked partly by signs. Some had 
nothing but a strip of cloth around the loins ; others had calico 
trowsers ; some had round jackets, &c The darkness of their 
skins, however, prevented their being so naked from appearing as 
disagreeable as I had expected. One old man came aboard with 
a boat well filled with pumpkins, yams, &c, and, coming up the 
side, he asked, " Where be this ship from ?" " America." " From 
'Meriky ! and what you captain's name?" "Lovett." " Oh ! Cap- 
tain Lovett ; I am glad of that, where is he ?" He ran up to him 
and held out his hand. " Why, Pond-jein, is that you? You are 
just the man I wanted," said the captain. It was the old Malay 
from whom he usually obtained his provisions. He soon gave him 
an order for a number of articles, for the names and prices of which 
see below. 

In the afternoon, we all (passengers) went ashore. Went first 
to the governor's house, which is a fine large building, very open 
and airy, and in full sight of the straits. The governor was ab- 
sent, but had a young Frenchman there as clerk. Here was a fix; 
Captain L. could not speak French, and the clerk could not speak 
English. I could make him understand me, but having almost 
forgotten the sound of French, and never having heard it spoken, 
I could hardly make out what he said. However, we managed 
to get our business accomplished. He was very polite, had tea for 
the ladies, and seemed desirous of accommodating us. Handed us 
into the sitting-room, which was open, cool and pleasant. As we 
were going in we met the captain of an English ship just from 
China, who had just anchored, and who gave us a good deal of 
information respecting China, Hong Kong, &c, and, greatly to 
Mrs. G.'s delight, gave her some information about her husband, 
whom he knew by sight, though not acquainted with him. 

Walked out with my umbrella ; saw some men catching fish 
with a long net, but they caught only about two gallons full of them, 
and all very small, none, I suppose, more than an inch and a half 
long, shaped mostly like sun fish, and colored like silver fish ; I 
should suppose that they are very delicate eating. There were a 
large number of children playing on the beach, either entirely or 
nearly naked, and all bareheaded and barefooted ; their greatest 
amusement seemed to consist in pursuing and catching a small 
crab, that ran with exceeding swiftness and burrowed in holes in 
the sand. I was surprised to see how very quick it could run — 
much faster than they could. When they had chased one to its 



120 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

hole, they would sit down and try to dig it out, if the hole was not 
too deep. I began to pick up some small shells on the b*each, and 
among the stones at the water's edge, and half a dozen of them 
gathered round me, and began talking, and asking me questions. 
Some of them were quite good looking, and had very beautiful 
teeth ; but they will soon spoil them by chewing betel nut. as all 
the grown-up people, men and women, do here, at least among 
the Malays ; I did not observe whether the Chinese use it or not. 
I did not understand a word they said ; but they were evidently 
in great spirits, and very good natured ; so I talked away to them, 
asking questions, and making remarks, and laughing and talking 
with as great glee as any of them. They helped me to pick shells, 
crying out " Gubboosh !" " Yes !" " Karang !" &c. I felt almost 
sorry to part with them, and having nothing else to give them as 
a reward for their services, I took out my pin-cushion, and gave 
them a pin a piece. They were quite eager to get them, and 
stood round me in a half-circle, holding up their little hands and 
chattering away. They waited very patiently, each till his ow 7 n 
turn came, and followed me some little distance afterwards, till I 
turned and waved my hand — and then off they went. 

I then rejoined our company and we took a long walk, through 
a large grove of cocoa-nut trees, then to Pond-jein's house. It 
is one story high, of bamboo, and has a good many apart- 
ments. He showed us his bed-room, where there was a bed wide 
enough for the whole family, neatly ornamented with tinsel, &c. ; 
gave us refreshments of tolerably good Java coffee, with sugar, 
but no milk, fresh cocoa-nut milk, plantains, guavas, sweetmeats, 
&c. Thence we went to the reservoir from which water is ob- 
tained for the ships, and just back of which is a monument to 
Lord Cathcart, who died here in 1787. Everything was novel — 
trees, flowers, people, and all. 

The place has a good many inhabitants, but I had no means 
of learning how many. Pond-jein said, in answer to my in- 
quiries, " Oh, plenty people here." Saw a woman weaving, and 
quite a crowd of children followed us as we went around. 

We met a poor leprous girl, as we went along ; the palm of 
her hand was quite white, her feet were wrapped up in cloths, 
and she seemed to walk with difficulty. Her body was much 
wasted away, and her face expressed a good deal of pain. 
Coming back to the village, a Chinese came out of a house and 
spoke to Mr. K. by name. He had known him in Canton ; and 
having by some means incurred the displeasure of the higher 
powers there, he had fled here for safety. Going on further, we 
came to a China-man's shop, and looking in, the first thing I saw was 
a wooden clock, and the portyait of Martin Van Buren on its face ! 
Attracted by such an unexpected sight, in these ends of the world, 
we went in. The China-man was very polite. Eager to sell, 
very complaisant, in fact, a complete man of the world, smooth 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 121 

and oily-tongued. He had a very miscellaneous collection, though 
not large, and asked us what we would have ; said he had some 
very fine Holland gin, and seemed surprised that we did not fancy 
it. He had Jews' harps, lead pencils, jack-knives, brass tacks, 
calicoes, shoes from Lowell, several wooden clocks, got them from 
awhaler, and sold them for ten dollars a-piece, which I think was 
quite reasonable — if they were worth anything at all. 

Going out of his shop, I saw a red piece of paper with Chinese 
characters, pasted against one of the posts, and a little piece of 
bamboo underneath, with several half burnt Josh-sticks in it. I 
asked him what that was ? " Oh, that is the great Josh ; we 
burn them twice a month, all the same as they do in America." 
I told him we did not do so in America, at which he was greatly 
surprised. 

Then we came back to the ship about seven p. m., and in the 
evening talked over all we had seen, and sat up to finish our let- 
ters for home. 

Friday morning. The captain said he would go ashore for the 
last time, and be off as soon as possible ; so we gentlemen got 
ready and went ashore, but it was very warm, and I did not care 
about walking much. Our party went to visit the fort. I took 
a short stroll on the beach, but soon came back and sat down at 
the landing place, under the shade of a noble banian tree, where 
there was a delightful breeze from the water. There was a lad- 
der reaching up nearly to the top of the tree, which I climbed, 
and found a little hut away up in the heart of the tree, and a 
Malay stationed there to make signals for ships in the straits. 
Quite a crowd of Malays were standing and sitting round the 
tree, chewing betel, and chattering away, but doing nothing in 
the world. They seem like a very do-nothing sort of a people ; 
are not nearly so thrifty nor neat in their persons, dress, houses, 
&c, as the Chinese who live among them. We saw a number 
of Chinese houses in the place, though I could not say what pro- 
portion. 

On the whole the romance of yesterday's visit wore off very 
much to-day, and I was quite glad to leave them, and depart. The 
place is said to be unhealthy, from the marshes just back of the 
village. The Malays are Mohammedans. I observed that those 
who came on board would not eat meat, for fear it should be pork, 
though they were very glad to get ship's bread. They appeal- 
principally to live on fowls and vegetables. I saw a few buffaloes, 
which seemed very fond of being in the water, and also some 
dogs that looked a little like small greyhounds, some goats, and 
a few rather long narrow-eared sheep, which had thrown off their 
woollen coats and wore hair, the climate being too warm for 
woollen stuffs. 

We had the anchor up about two o'clock, and drifted on our 
course with the tide ; but the wind being light, made slow progress. 



122 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

Here is Pond-jein's bill, which may not be uninteresting to you, 
both for the articles and the groceries : 



15 piculs* of yams at $1.25 


$18.75 


1 picul of sweet potatoes at $1 


1.00 


12 bunchesf plantains 


3.00 


100 cocoa-nuts green, 25 do. hard . 
200 bundles paddy, (rice in the hull) 


2.00 


15.00 


200 " grassj 


8.00 


200 eggs ..... 


2.00 


8 dozen chickens .... 


8.00 


4 " ducks .... 


8.00 


1 " capons .... 


3.00 


100 pumpkinsj .... 


4.00 


10 turtles .... 


6.50 


4 bundles onions .... 


1.00 



$80.25 

The turtles would bring ten times that price in New York. 

Sabbath morning, May 1st. When I went out before breakfast, 
we were away out in the Java Sea, and the only land in sight was 
the high peaks of Rajah Bassa, which must have been seventy 
miles off. During the day, saw a ship to the eastward that looked 
very much like the Oneida. A pleasant breeze all day, and toler- 
ably good progress ; out of sight of land all day. Sea about thir- 
teen fathoms deep; it varies from eight to thirty fathoms, all the 
way from Java to the island of Banou ; is generally about eleven 
to fifteen fathoms. 

Preached on Luke xxiii. 33 ; " There they crucified him." 
On the death of Jesus Christ. Was favored with great fluency 
and good attention. In the afternoon, one of the men came and 
asked me to lend him a Greek Testament. He said he could read 
it. I was just preparing for my Bible class, and could not talk with 
him about it then. I got it for him, and he took it off to the fore- 
castle, and seemed to be reading it very busily for some time. In 
a day or two afterwards, he came back with a translation he had 
made from the Greek to Latin, of Matt. ii. 1-12, which was very 
well done. He had been at some German schools and universi- 
ties, and understands more languages than any one on board ; 
Greek, Latin, English, French, Danish, German ; yet he is not 
more than twenty-two years old. 

We had quite a squall during the night; thunder and lightning, 
and a strong breeze. Lightning is seen off the coast of Sumatra 
very frequently. 

Monday, May 2d. Land in sight about seven, a. m., a peak in 
the isle of Banca. During the day we drew up to, and about 
noon or a little after entered, the Macclesfield passage of Gaspar 

* A Picul is 133} pounds. 

f About 100 plantains in each bunch, which would sell for one or two shillings a 
piece at New York. 

£ The bundles of hay weighed perhaps three pounds each. 
§ The pumpkins are small, but very good and sweet. 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 123 

Straits, which lead from the Java to the Chinese sea. There are 
a great many shoals and rocks in these straits, and we found it 
necessary to watch very closely in passing them. However, we 
had a fair, though light wind, smooth sea, and clear weather ; and 
about four, p. m., were off the northern part of Pulo Leat, and not 
more than two miles from it, so that we could distinctly see the 
shore, rocks and trees. About six, p. m., a pleasant little breeze 
blew us a most pleasant scent, from Pulo Lepa, and Pulo Leat. 
The shores, however, of these islands, could not be compared with 
the scenery of Java in the Straits of Sunda. 

Tuesday, May 3d. When I went out this morning, Gaspar 
Island was away astern of us ; it was the only land in sight. We 
soon lost sight of that, and were out in the open China Sea. 

Friday, May 6th. Wednesday was a hot day. Thermometer, 
89° in the shade in the upper cabin, and about 87° in the lower. 
How the cook stands his occupation, I cannot conceive. The ther- 
mometer rose to 135°, in fifteen minutes after I put it in the gal- 
ley ! Thursday it was raining nearly all day, much to the embar- 
rassment of the officers ; for by calculation we crossed the equator 
about noon, and there were several islands and shoals near our 
course ; but the weather was so thick, that scarcely anything 
could be seen more than a mile or two off. 

Saturday, May 7th. Fair weather when I went out this morn- 
ing. West Island bore east of us about ten miles off. while away 
ahead, one or two of the higher peaks of the Great Natuna Group 
were just visible, though they must have been more than seventy 
miles off. We are now (five, p. m.,) just abreast, of the most 
southern of them, and shall probably pass them all during the 
night. They are quite mountainous, though we are passing at 
such a distance as to be able to see but little. The Oneida beats 
us in light winds, but loses when we have anything of a breeze. 
You would be greatly amused to hear the officers and passengers 
talking about her. We have seen her now every day for a week, 
sometimes astern, sometimes ahead, sometimes abeam, or along- 
side, some distance off. She makes more efforts to get on than 
we ; can spread one or two more sails, and has been seen several 
times wetting her sails. 

Monday, May 9th. Preached on John xvi. 7, to an attentive 
audience, though they were not so much interested, apparently, 
as they were for two or three late days. It is hard at times to 
repress unbelieving fears, or to avoid giving way to the suggestions 
of the enemy, that " it is of no use to preach to such people." 
Truly, it is like casting bread upon the waters. How many diffi- 
culties of the same kind must I experience in China ! My heart 
sinks within me at times, and then again I am encouraged. But, 
so far, I have had no desire to go back, but constantly a willing- 
ness to go forward and see what God would have me to do. Look- 
ing over the account of Dr. Morrison, in the Chronicle, I could 
hardly tell what to think. I cannot plod away as he did at a 



124 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWR1E. 

language. How often do I think " it was a mistake to send me 
here : they ought to have let me go to Africa !" Yet when I think 
how remarkably Providence ordered my course in this matter, I 
am constrained to lay my hand on my mouth, and wait to see 
what God is doing. One thing often occurs to me : I thought I 
was peculiarly qualified to be a missionary to Africa ; I do not 
think I am for China. If I had gone to Africa, I should have de- 
pended on my qualifications too much, and not on God : — going to 
China, I have no resources, and He blesses those who feel their 
need of His assistance. " My grace is sufficient for thee ; for my 
strength is made perfect in weakness. Most gladly, therefore, will 
I rather glory in mine infirmities, that the power of Christ may 
rest upon me." Amen. 

Just before retiring last night (about ten, p. m.,) I was walking 
on deck. There was no moon, but some stars were shining 
brightly among the scattered clouds. All at once a light as of the 
moon emerging from clouds, when she is half full, lightened up 
the ship. I started, and, looking out to the west, saw a very large 
and splendid meteor, of a pale bluish color, shooting down from 
the Sickle in Leo-Major. I could hardly see its shape, as it im- 
mediately disappeared. Three others, though very small, soon 
followed in the same place. Large meteors are often seen in this 
sea, but they appear commonly about midnight. 

Wednesday, May 11th. From twelve o'clock Monday to twelve 
o'clock to-day, we have made fourteen miles in latitude, and none 
in longitude ! It has been a dead calm two-thirds of the time, 
and, with the exception of two short squalls, very light winds all 
the rest, and in addition, a strong current against us. Rather 
slow going. Yesterday the ship would not steer, there being no 
wind, but turned round, head to the south, and she could not be 
got round again. However, we are doing rather better to-day ; 
in fact, yesterday we lost a mile on the whole, so that to-day we 
have made it fifteen. 

An immense number of small round animals were seen floating 
and swimming on and near the surface of the water in the after- 
noon. There must have been millions of them. We caugrht half 
a dozen of them, and found them to be of a jelly-like suostance, 
in the shape of a bucket, or short thimble. They were of a brown 
color, and had in the centre of the cavity an organization very 
much like the stamens and pistils of flowers. They looked very 
much like the central part of the passion-flower ; smelt like oys- 
ters, and moved by alternately contracting and enlarging the 
upper rim of their bodies ; out of the water they appeared like a 
mere lump of jelly. I'll try to preserve one or two of them for 
you, but fear I cannot do it. They are evidently alive, and some 
of them are quite lively. 

We hope to be at the end of our voyage in two weeks, and you 
will perhaps think I must be veiy glad of it. I can hardly say, 
however, that I am. For a few days aftei leaving Angier I did 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 125 

wish pretty heartily that we were safely moored ; but now I feel 
almost sorry to think of ending the voyage so soon. Having been 
now nearly four months at sea, I feel quite at home ; and I know, 
on arriving in China, I shall then again be a stranger, with re- 
sponsible duties to perform, and no fellow-laborer to counsel with 
in regard to them. My faith and hopes fluctuate considerably in 
regard to the future. When I cast my cares upon the Lord, I can 
wait with calmness and peace, knowing that he will bring it to 
pass ; but too often I suffer my mind to dwell upon the future, 
without reflecting that my strength is all from on high, and the 
consequence almost invariably is, that I am disheartened by the 
prospect. When shall I learn to live by faith, and not by sight ? 
I am sad, and almost sick at heart, to-night, for I have been think- 
ing of difficulties, and of myself. But that it would be wrong, I 
could wish, " Oh, that I had wings like a dove, for then would I 
fly away, and be at rest." 

Monday, May 16th. Preached yesterday on Luke xviii. 19, to a 
very attentive audience. I have rarely seen in America a more 
attentive and well-behaved congregation, than our sailors here. 
Yet the truths they hear from me are as plain and evangelical, 
and as much calculated to bring down one's high thoughts of 
himself, as I know how to make them. I believe they sometimes 
think I preach hard doctrines, yet they are very respectful. Yes- 
terday there was hardly an eye turned from me for the whole 
time, though I was not conscious of being more than usually in- 
teresting or fervent. But, alas ! " who hath believed our report, 
and to whom is the arm of the Lord revealed ?" " They came 
before me as the Lord's people come ; they hearkened to my 
words, but their heart goeth after idols." How can any one think 
that almighty power is not necessary to change the hearts of men ? 
How can any one take credit to himself, if success attend his ef- 
forts? I lent my " Holy War" to the sailmaker the other day. 
He was greatly pleased with it, and was telling me last night how 
much he liked it. I asked him if he understood it all. "Oh, yes 
sir ! it's very plain ; and if it were not, I could understand it, by 
overhauling my Bible a little." He seems to be a good man, and 
I am always sure of having at least one attentive hearer on the 
Sabbath. I believe he never takes his eyes off me while I am 
preaching. 

Friday, May 20th. A fine breeze for two days past has carried 
us on finely, and if it holds out, we shall probably be at our "de- 
sired haven" in a week. Consequently, all are in fine spirits, and 
it is quite amusing to see how eager every one is to hear the lati- 
tude. For my own part, I cannot say I am anxious either way. 
The responsibility of my station, and of the steps I may take at 
Macao, sometimes weighs me down a good deal ; and, like Jere- 
miah, I say, " Ah, Lord God ! I cannot speak ; for I am a child." 
With a very slight change, I find Solomon's prayer very appropri- 
ate for myself. " Oh Lord God ! thou hast made me a messenger 



126 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

to a people like the dust of the earth for multitude ; give me now 
wisdom and knowledge, that I may go out and come in before this 
people : for who can instruct this people that is so great ?" But 
the promises to Moses, and Joshua, and Jeremiah, and Paul, have 
sustained me, and the recollection of the providence of God in times 
past, cheers me, and I am going forward. A great work is before 
me, and its greatness appals me at times ; but the reflection of the 
pendulum, "I have to tick so many thousand times, that I cannot 
count them all, but then I have a moment for every tick," encour- 
ages me again. 

I have been reading over my instructions, and I candidly con- 
fess I would rather take the responsibility of selecting a mission 
station in the first instance, than perform the part now assigned 
to me. The facts which I learned from the captain of the Bombay 
Castle, make it very probable that we ought to have a station at 
Hong Kong. If the question were simply the selection of a sta- 
tion, that would not be so difficult ; but the question is, " Shall we 
give up, or keep one station already occupied, and select another?" 
and that is not so easy. But, " He giveth wisdom." 

Monday, May 23d. Preached yesterday what I suppose is my 
last sermon on ship-board, from 1 Cor. i. 23, 24, with as much 
fluency and feeling, and as good attention as at any time yet. 
The seed is sown : how or when it shall spring up, or what shall 
be the final results, I know not. Sometimes I hope it may spring 
up and produce much fruit; but I never think so, when I recollect 
the unworthiness of the instrument by whom it was dispensed. 

On Saturday evening, the sailmaker brought my " Holy War." 
"That's a very good book, Mr. Lowrie ; have you got any more 
like it?" So I took out " Pollok's Tales of the Covenanters," 
and lent it to him. In twenty-four hours he had read all three of 
the tales, and brought it back to me. " Oh, Mr. Lowrie, what a 
good book this is ! That last story (Ralph Gemmel) makes the 
tears come into a fellow's eyes." I had a good deal of talk with 
him afterwards, and think that he gives good evidence of piety. 
He began to be serious on the last voyage, but says he thinks a 
great deal more about religion now than he ever did before. " Oh 
how much pleasure I sometimes find now in prayer !" He talked 
a great deal about Bunyan's Holy War, which he evidently un- 
derstood very well. "That Diabolus was a notorious villain. 
But wasn't it sweet when Immanuel caught him and bound him, 
and then turned him off?" 

We shall most probably go into China the day after to-morrow. 
Our passengers (Mr. K. excepted, who is an old hand at it) have 
been quite anxious to get to China, and longing for sometime past 
to get there ; but I believe they hardly know now whether they 
want to get there or not. It seems like going away from home, 
to leave the little narrow space where, for one-third of a year, we 
have spent our time. It is going away from familiar faces and 
employments, to a land of strangers and of unknown duties. 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 127 

Tuesday, May 24th. Had our last Bible class, probably, this 
morning. I have been writing up various things ; among others, 
a preface to my journal. 

Thursday, May 26th. Yesterday was a pretty gloomy day. 
We had gone on so finely during the night, that we expected to 
have been at Macao by noon. About six o'clock, however, a. m., 
the wind increased to a gale ; had to double-reef the topsails. 
There was a heavy sea, and the ship groaned, and rolled, and 
pitched after the fashion of the Cape of Good Hope. We had had 
so much fine weather, and so smooth a sea for six weeks before, 
that the change took us all aback, and all the passengers were 
quite sea-sick. About eight o'clock, a. m., yesterday, we saw land 
ahead, probably the great Ladrone Island, a few miles south of 
Macao ; but just then the gale came out dead ahead, and we 
had to put back to sea. Two or three other ships, that were nearer 
in than we, had to do the same. Wore ship, and stood in for land 
again at noon ; saw it very distinctly about four, p. m.; but the 
wind being still ahead, had to put off to sea again, and soon lost 
sight of it. We are now trying again to go in, but the wind is 
unfavorable. It may be several days yet before we can get in, 
though we are not probably six hours' fair sailing from Macao. 
" The worst coast," says the captain, " in the world ; nobody 
knows when we will get in, and yet, I dare say, the gale does not 
extend fifty miles." 1 could not help thinking how often we see 
such things in common life. Just as we are on the point of ac- 
quiring what we long labor and hope for, we are disappointed, and 
again made to urge on our rough and stormy course. What a 
blessed place heaven will be, where " there is no more sea /" no 
more storms ; no more wearisome calms ; no treacherous shoals ; 
no disappointments. It is the haven of eternal rest, and doubly 
sweet, because entered " through much tribulation." 



China Sea, May 26th, 1842. 
My Dear Mother — 

So here it is; the long promised, and I flatter myself, the long 
expected journal. Before you decide that it is too long, just ima- 
gine yourself in my situation, with a charge to tell you all I do, 
and see and hear, seeing and hearing a great many things new 
and strange, or amusing ; and having hardly any connection with 
home, or home folks, except this journal. As long as I was wri- 
ting it, I seemed to be holding intercourse with you ; sometimes 
sitting down for a long chat, sometimes -running in to tell you a 
little story, sometimes pointing out a splendid scene on the sky, 
sometimes giving you a picture of social life on shipboard, — was it 
any wonder that my pen sometimes loved to linger on the paper, 
when it thus brought up before me so many tender, and so many 
pleasant associations 1 and when it caused me to think the oftener 



128 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

of one — yes, of many whom, though I love, I dare not expect to 
see any more on earth ? 

If you find it badly written in some places, you must consider, 
that it was sometimes so damp, that my paper seemed to be almost 
wet ; and especially the ship often rolled so prodigiously, that in 
my efforts to maintain my own position, I had enough to do with- 
out minding whether I wrote backhand or slopehand, or whether 
the strokes went perpendicularly or horizontally. I think, if you 
had seen me sometimes, laying my writing desk in my berth, 
bracing my foot against the sides of my room, and holding on 
with one hand to the berth board, while I wrote with the other, 
and after all getting knocked, now against the berth, and now 
against the partition of my room, you would think I did pretty 
well. This is no fanciful description, for such things happened to 
me again and again, when off the Cape of Good Hope. 

As to publication of extracts? No. I set my foot down there. 
Keep it out of the way of that little omnivorous monster that 
they keep in the Mission House — [the Missionary Chronicle.] 
There is not a line of it that was written for publication, and very 
few lines in it that I think fit for publication. They are mere un- 
studied and unlabored accounts of what happened to myself, in a 
voyage that contained few or no striking incidents. I have not 
that squeamishness about the publication of letters and journals 
that some missionaries have ; but still I would rather not appear 
in print for several years yet. The less I am known for a while 
— at least until it is known whether I am likely to be of any use 
in this part of the world — the better. If I should prove a worth- 
less vessel, a useless laborer, there will be fewer disappointed in 
me. I know that some would laugh at me for feeling such an 
anticipation, but with me it is no laughing matter. My coming 
to this part of the world is but an experiment. If it succeeds, 
there will be time enough to become as prominent as is needful ; 
if it does not, it will be better by far, both for myself and the 
Church, that as little be said about it, and as few expectations dis- 
appointed as possible. 

What more shall I say? I might fill page after page with ex- 
pressions of attachment and affection. I might say how often I 
think of you all, and recall to mind the many, many proofs of 
love, and tokens of kindly feelings, I have received from you. I 
may say how much I would delight to hear from you, and about 
all that concerns you, especially those things that relate to the 
spiritual welfare of each and every one of the family, and of other 
dear friends. But why should I? You already know all this 
nearly, if not quite as well, as I could tell you. When you think 
of me, or speak of me, do not think or speak of me as if you 
thought I were unhappy, or repented of the course I have taken. 
I may be sick, I may be in outward distress, I may be, I often am 
dejected and despondent, but I never yet have regretted that I am 
away from home, and never yet felt the wish, (however much I 



JOURNAL AT SEA. 129 

should like to see you all,) to leave the path I am now treading, 
and turn my back upon the heathen. What may be my feelings 
hereafter, I dare not presume to say. I may be " troubled on 
every side ;" ' : perplexed," oftentimes ; " persecuted," it may be ; 
" cast down," even. But I trust not to be '•'• distressed," not to be 
" forsaken," and far from being " destroyed ;" to come off at last 
conqueror, and more than conqueror, through him that hath loved 
me. With such a confidence, and with the hope of being sustained 
by many influences from the land of my birth, more precious than 
gold and silver, I may well rejoice ; yea, I do rejoice. 
Most affectionately yours, 

W. M. Lowrie. 
9 



CHAPTER IV. 

1842. 

LANDING IN CHINA — VOYAGE IN THE SEA QUEEN — SHIPWRECK IN THE HARMONY 
— RETURN TO MACAO. 

At the period included in this chapter, hostilities existed between 
Great Britain and China, and the result of the contest, or even its 
duration, could not be known. On reaching China, the new mis- 
sionary was instructed to inquire particularly, in view of the state 
of things then existing, into the practicability of establishing a 
station at Hong Kong, or any point on the coast further north. 
Having obtained this information, and joined his colleagues at 
Singapore, they were authorized to decide the question of remov- 
ing from Singapore, and concentrating the whole missionary force 
in China. On landing, he found that the Rev. T. L. McBryde had 
been at Macao for some months, having left Singapore in hopes 
that a sea voyage would recruit his health. 

Having made himself acquainted with the existing state of 
things in China, Mr. Lowrie left Macao on the 18th of June ; and 
after four months of unavailing efforts to reach Singapore, he re- 
turned to Hong Kong on the 18th of October. The account of 
these distressing voyages, and his perilous shipwreck, is fully given 
in the following letters and journals. It is matter of regret that 
one-half of his journal in the Sea Q,ueen was some years ago 
destroyed by fire, when the house of one of his relatives was 
burned down. The loss cannot be supplied, as no copy of this 
impressive journal was taken. 

During the time of these disastrous voyages, the providence of 
God had made the question plain, on which the missionaries were 
seeking for light. The war between Great Britain and China had 
been terminated by a treaty of peace, with which the contending 
parties appeared to be satisfied, and by which five cities on the 
coast were opened to the commerce and enterprise of Western 
nations, as well as to the labor of the Christian missionary. The 
time had now fully come when the labors of the church of God, in 



LETTERS. ' 131 

behalf of China, needed no longer to be carried on at a distant 
outport. 



Macao, May 28th, 1842. 
My Dear Mother — 

We anchored yesterday at four p. m. in Macao roads. Here I 
found Mr. and Mrs. McBryde, who had reached China several 
months ago, having taken the voyage from Singapore on account 
of his health. I was greatly delighted to find him here, and was 
much relieved by having his counsel and assistance in deciding 
the various questions before us. I was most cordially received by 
the different missionaries here, and found a temporary home with 
the Rev. Mr. Bridgeman. At a late hour I got to bed, under mus- 
quito curtains, but could not sleep for a long time. It was so 
strange to be lying in a large or wide bed, to be in a large room, 
to feel that I was on heathen ground. I greatly missed the ship's 
bells, which strike every half-hour on board. The noise of the 
gongs, and drums, and rattles, and other strange sounds in the 
town, and the many, many thoughts of hundreds of things, past, 
present, and to come, that crowded rapidly through my mind, 
kept me long awake. It is Saturday night again ; — I am a stran- 
ger in the earth, but Ebenezer — Emmanuel. 

Hong Kong, June 7th, 1842. I stayed in Macao from Friday 
evening till Wednesday morning, and saw a good deal of the 
place. The population is about 35,000, principally Chinese, with 
perhaps 5000 of Portuguese descent. The streets are narrow and 
crooked; very few are more than ten feet wide, and some not 
more than six. They are commonly full of persons passing along, 
hucksters and pedlers, with their wares and cries of various kinds. 
I saw a poor girl, who had lost both her feet by the leprosy, and 
was moving about on her hands and knees. Very few women 
are seen in the streets, except that in the mornings and evenings 
a number of well-dressed Portuguese women, with a servant be- 
hind, holding a large umbrella over them, go out to walk. The 
ladies, and a good many of the foreign male residents, commonly 
pay their visits in sedan chairs, borne by two Chinese. I used to 
pity some of the bearers as they went panting along under the 
weight of some fat fellow. These bearers commonly go in a little 
short trot, though it is very seldom that you see a Chinaman run. 
The houses of the foreigners are commonly large and roomy ; the 
servants live in the basement, and the owners in the upper floor. 
Few or none of them are more than one story high. Most of them 
have one or more punkahs. I went out one morning to bathe, in 
the place where Mr. Stanton was captured, and in the way passed 
through a large Chinese burying ground. Most of the graves 
were very carelessly attended to. A great many of them had 
pieces of Chinese paper at the head. It is but a short time since 
the Chinese had their ceremony of worshipping the graves of their 



132 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

ancestors. It is their custom then, to put such a piece of paper on 
the graves, to serve as money for their departed ancestors in the 
other world. I also visited the Protestant burying ground, where 
Dr. Morrison and his first wife are laid. It is a small, and rather 
a pretty place, now nearly full. I suppose, however, it will not be 
much used hereafter, as probably most of the Protestant foreigners 
will remove to Hong Kong. 

There is a little chapel owned by the British in Macao, where 
one of the missionaries usually preaches every Sabbath, using the 
forms of the Episcopal church. Mr. Boone preached on the Sab- 
bath, on " Train up a child," &c. — He had first baptized the 
daughter of Mr. Swords, an American Episcopal merchant there. 
This, I believe, was the first public baptism ever performed by an 
American in Macao. The Missionaries usually have their chil- 
dren baptized privately. There were two punkahs in the church, 
so that, though the day was warm, we were quite comfortable. 
There were probably forty persons present. The Chinese, how- 
ever, have no Sabbath, and were going about vending their wares, 
and uttering their cries, as usual. As for the Roman Catholics 
here, their Sabbath is over after mass, which is performed early in 
the morning. In the evening I preached to an audience of some 
twenty or thirty, at Mr. Brown's house, — on Psalm cxix. 19. As 
Mr. McBryde was to leave Macao for Amoy on Wednesday, June 
1st, together with Mr. Boone and Dr. Cumming, we had a mis- 
sionary meeting at Mr. Brown's on Tuesday night. The vessel 
in which they were to go to Amoy, was lying at Hong Kong, and 
I accompanied them to this place. 

Having a head wind the whole time, we had to beat all the 
way, and were twenty-nine hours coming forty-five miles, the dis- 
tance from Macao to Hong Kong. I suppose in our beating about, 
we went at least a hundred and fifty miles. The crew were a 
jolly set, and very kind, but we could hold almost no intercourse 
with them, as they were of the province of Canton, and Mr. 
Boone spoke only Hokien. There was not much to interest one 
on the route. Our course lay among a multitude of islands at 
the mouth of the Canton river. These are high, rocky and bare ; 
scarcely any trees or bushes ; and the little grass there is being 
very much withered. We saw a few fishing boats, and one or 
two small villages. Occasionally a little fisherman's hut was 
seen perched among the rocks. At night I spread one of my 
Angier-mats on the floor and laid my cloak over it and slept there. 
I pitied the rest of our passengers a good deal. Mr. B. and Mr. 
McB. were neither of them well ; their wives were even more 
weakly, and in addition were sea-sick ; their children were un- 
easy and fretful, and two ayahs or female servants, whom they 
had engaged to go with them to Amoy, were so sea-sick they 
could not hold up their heads. There they w T ere, among tables 
and boxes, and chairs, and plates, with scarcely room to stir, sick, 
going to a strange country and far away from the comforts of 



LETTERS. 133 

home and friends. I assure you I began to think more seriously 
than before of the personal trials and discomforts of missionary 
life. Yet there was not a murmur uttered, nor as far as I could 
see, an emotion of impatience or regret felt. We arrived at 
Hong Kong harbor about three p. m., on Thursday. 

After some searching we found their ship and put our voyafers 
on board, with their baggage. She is but a small vessel, with but 
poor accommodations in respect to room. I went ashore and was 

most kindly welcomed and entertained by Mr. G , where I 

have been staying since my arrival. On Saturday morning I 

tried to go up one of the hills back of Mr. G 's house — I 

assure you it was up hill work, and I had hard tugging to get 
myself up. It was so steep, I concluded to go no further, and sat 
down to rest on a rock before descending. My toil in ascending 
the hill, naturally reminded me of the circumstances of the mis- 
sion, which we were endeavoring to establish here, and of the 
work that is yet before us. The difficulties are great — high as 
the mountains, and apparently as hard to be removed as the 
granite upon them; and after all, what is it to the eye of man 
but a barren prospect, like the bare side of the hill I had been 
climbing? And yet, as I ascended I had seen little plants and 
flowers, and insects, and shells, and recognized in all of them 
traces of the presence and power of God ; and as I looked around 
I saw that some Chinese women had ascended the hills to gather 
firewood to sustain their earthly lives, and that civilized men 
were toiling at great expense to found a city here, where appa- 
rently, there was so little prospect of one being founded. If they 
spare no expense for a mere earthly object, why should Christians 
spare their money or labor in endeavoring here to build the temple 
of the Lord? There are great difficulties in the way, but when I 
looked round, and saw these vast hills piled up on all sides, and 
covered over with the immense blocks of granite as if in sport, 
just as a child heaps up little sand hills in its play, and disposes 
its pebbles and its shells on their sides and their tops, I could 
not but exclaim, the God who formed these hills, and placed these 
rocks upon them, is all-powerful ; and though they seem im- 
movably fixed, yet even men, by slow and patient labor, may take 
them away ; and he himself, by means that he can well employ, 
can remove them at once. The difficulties of our mission, God 
could remove at once ; but if he chooses to employ us in this work, 
the probability is, that for the present we shall proceed by slow, 
and perhaps for a time, almost imperceptible steps. But the work 
shall be done, for the mouth of the Lord hath spoken it. The 
granite rocks around were a little sanctuary for me, and I did 
not regret my toil in climbing up the hill. 

The Sabbath-day to me was a very pleasant day, though I saw 
many things to pain me. I could not but feel that I was in a 
worse than a heathen country. It is a heathen land under the 
control of Christians, where the heathen are allowed, and even 



134 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

required by the Christians, to work for them on the Sabbath-day. 
How can the missionaries urge on the natives to keep holy the 
Sabbath-day, when the merchants and the Government send them 
to count money, store away goods, open roads, hew granite, and 
build houses, on that day ? And when the Roman Catholic 
pritsts, who are now exerting the greatest influence on the natives 
of any of the foreigners, consider that the Sabbath is over as soon 
a mass is said ? The merchants go to their counting-rooms as 
usual, and the Sabbath is emphatically the day for visiting. — 
" Woe is me, that I dwell in Mesech, and sojourn in the tents of 
Kedar !" My heart is sick at the sight of the wickedness around. 
O Lord, show thyself. I felt almost afraid to establish a mission 
here, for how can a city prosper whose foundations are laid in the 
desecration of the Sabbath-day. " Sin is a reproach to any peo- 
ple," and how much more to England and America ! 

In the evening I preached in a little mat-house to a company 
of some fifteen or twenty persons, mostly pious soldiers, on Luke 
xi. 31. Mr. Shuck has had a service among them for some time 
past. Mr. Morrison was there. The attention was very good 
indeed. 

Wednesday, June 8th. I am beginning to wish to be at my 
regular missionary employments, but the prospect at present is 
rather poor ; several months' voyaging and exploring, and then 
two or three years' studying of the Mandarin dialect, and then as 
many more at one of the local dialects, — what shall happen before 
all that time is passed 1 

Friday, June 10th. Left Hong Kong with Mr. Shuck yesterday 
at two, p. m., in a Chinese " Fast Boat," or passage boat. It was 
perhaps of seventy tons' measurement, had a large cabin, and two 
small rooms ; the latter were assigned to Mr. Shuck and myself, 
as our Chinese fellow-passengers, about twenty in number, occu- 
pied the cabin. It was a very comfortable boat, but had neither 
berth nor seat. I spread my mat on the floor, and lay there. Mr. 
Shuck and I took our dinner, or tea, on the top of the cabin ; we 
sat down on the roof, took our bread and meat on pieces of a 
newspaper, for want of plates ; and though we had knives and 
forks, I found fingers more convenient than the latter. The Chi- 
nese made tea for us, and I relished my meal very Avell. 

We had a fair wind most of the way, and got to Macao by 
daylight. 

This is a very unsettled kind of life. I am " living by the day," 
for I know not what a day may bring forth. 

Very affectionately yours, W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, June 11th, 1842. 
My Dear Father — 

.... In regard to the station at Singapore, we are all of opinion 
that it must be given up, as soon as we can obtain a station in or 



LETTERS. 135 

near China. It is too far from China. One half of the year it is 
a long and tedious voyage from China there ; the other half, it is 
just the same from Singapore here. It will probably take me 
from four to six weeks to get to Singapore. The weather in the 
China Sea is almost always oppressively warm, particularly so at, 
this season, and I shall run a good deal of risk of meeting a tyfoon 
before I arrive ; then the price of passage in the unfavorable mon- 
soon is enormous. Here, then, are time and expense, and, at cer- 
tain seasons, danger, in making this voyage. Neither is Singapore 
in itself a very advantageous place for a mission station. It is 
unhealthy for most persons ; very few can endure the constant 
heat, when there is no bracing winter. The character of the 
people is also lower there than in many other places. The greater 
part of them are mere adventurers ; many of them have been pi- 
rates ; a very large proportion are unmarried men, while there are 
comparatively few women and children. This in itself, of course, 
is not a reason why they should receive no attention ; but it is a 
reason why we should not turn our attention to places where there 
is no prospect either of immediate or enduring success and use- 
fulness, when we have not the men and means to occupy every 
place where it is desirable to have a station. 

As to saying that our labor there would be lost if we gave up 
the place, I think that is an entire mistake ; and further, that it 
contains a most mischievous principle. No good action once per* 
formed, is ever lost. God knows its value. He knows best what 
use to make of it. He is best able to turn it to good account. In 
so doing, he may work in ways we think not of. To our view, 
he may make entirely null and void all that we have done, and 
where we looked for a fruitful harvest, there may be desolation. 
We may seem to have lost all our labor, and spent our strength 
for nought. But it is not so ; we have looked for the fruit in the 
wrong place. We may say of our work, as the patriarch Job said* 
of himself, " Its witness is in heaven, and its record is on high.'* 
He who counts even the tears of his saints, and numbers all their 
sighs, will not forget the expense, and the labor, and the sufferings 
we have endured, the prayers our missionaries have offered, and 
the tears they have shed at Singapore. They may not see the 
fruit, but he sees it ; and is not this enough? We work to please 
him, not to appear well in the eyes of men. It is a very common 
remark, yet seldom fully appreciated, that the last day will dis- 
close the works of our hands. Perhaps we shall then see, that 
what we counted our most splendid services, those which made 
the most show and noise, and promised fairest for usefulness, were 
really of least value ; while others, over which we had mourned 
as seed thrown away, shall then be seen to have grown up and 
produced fruit and abundant harvest unto eternal life. At the time 
our China mission was commenced, Singapore seemed to be the 
most promising station, and probably we did right to select that 
place. Now the Lord in his providence seems to be opening the 



136 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

way for a much nearer approach to China, and we shall do wrong 
if we do not diligently attend to these intimations of his will. 
While we ask, " Lord, what wilt thou have us to do ?" we must 
also be ready to go where he points us ; and though we may 
hardly know what he would have us to do, yet " there it shall be 
told us what we must do." 

The Roman Catholics have almost complete possession of Ma- 
cao. They have a large number of churches, schools and priests 
here ; and frequently have processions through the streets in honor 
of their different saints. They had one on St. Anthony's day, a 
short time after my arrival, when they carried round an image of 
the saint, gaudily decorated with flowers and tinsel, beating drums 
and singing anthems. It is hard to see wherein their religion is 
different from that of the Chinese, at least so far as the sanctification 
of the Sabbath, and purity of morals, are concerned. They shut 
up the kingdom of heaven themselves, and they will not suffer 
others to show the way thither. They prohibit Protestants from 
carrying on any direct missionary labors, though the prohibition 
is not so strictly enforced as it might be, and as I had supposed it 
was. By prudence and proper care a missionary may distribute 
tracts, go out into the villages, and talk to the people, even gather 
a few of them in his house, and preach to them ; and he may have 
a small school, which he may direct and instruct as he pleases. 
Still, missionaries are under restraint, and they feel it ; and all of 
those who are here intend removing to Hong Kong or elsewhere, 
as soon as they can make it suit. For a permanent mission sta- 
tion, this is not the place. It might, perhaps, be expedient for us 
to have our missionaries here for a year or two, until we can make 
more permanent arrangements. 

The first appearance of Hong Kong was very unpromising. 
Though rather greener than any other of the islands at the mouth 
of the Canton river, it still partakes of the same general charac- 
teristics with them, — exceedingly hilly, with the hills barren, bare, 
high and steep, coming down to the water's edge, and very small 
and rough valleys between them. The few openings I saw among 
the hills seemed only to disclose a still more rough and broken 
country. It is almost the last place in the world, where I should 
have thought of founding a great city. It is hardly possible to find 
a site for a house, without digging down the tops or sides of the 
hills, and levelling them off. It cannot raise provisions enough to 
support a large population. It must be in great measure depend- 
ent on the main land, and on other countries. However, after 
spending several days there, and seeing more of its advantages, 
my impressions respecting it became decidedly more favorable. It 
has a noble and very safe harbor ; promises to be very healthy, 
though very damp in April, May and June ; and has now every 
prospect of filling up rapidly, both with foreigners and Chinese. 

The greater part of the Chinese on the island are merely labor- 
ers. I saw but few women and children : families are, however, 



LETTERS. 137 

coming over, and in a few years I think there will be a wide field 
for common schools. The population is now between 15.000 and 
20.000, one-half of whom live in the city of Hong Kong. The 
greater part of those now on the island have come over within the 
last twelve months. They are the most unpatriotic set I ever 
heard of, and make no scruple of selling their services to the na- 
tion that is fighting against their country. In the attack of the 
British on Canton, they found no difficulty in hiring Chinese to 
haul up their guns to the batteries. 

A number of different dialects are spoken on the island ; the 
Canton, however, is principally used. The main land is but half 
a mile off; several villages are on the shore just opposite the island 
The country between the Kowloon mountains and Canton is said 
to be very fertile and populous. 

The Roman Catholics have the start of all the Protestant mis- 
sionaries in Hong Kong. Several French Jesuits went there from 
Macao, after raising very large sums of money here ; got a grant 
of the very best place on the island for a chapel, and are now 
building a chapel and school-house, which will probably cost 
$20,000 or $25,000. They are three or four in number, some of 
them being men of some experience and knowledge of the world. 
To compete with such men, the Protestant churches send out one 
or two young men, fresh from the schools, and who have seen lit- 
tle or nothing of the world. However, I am not discouraged. If 
God has chosen us to build it who are "yet young and tender,'' he 
will give us strength to carry it on, and we will say, " Not by might 
nor by power, but by my Spirit saith the Lord." We do hope, how- 
ever, that the churches will adopt the language and the spirit of 
David, when he said, " Solomon my son is young and tender, and 
the house that is to be builded for the Lord, must be exceedingly 
magnifical of fame and of glory throughout all countries. I will 
therefore now make preparation for it. So David prepared abun- 
dantly before his death." 

The consideration of being on the ground and ready, I think of 
much importance. There can be no doubt that the doors of China, 
those two-leaved gates of brass that have so long been closed, and 
guarded by the great Dragon, are shaking and will soon be open- 
ed. Every one whom I see is more and more of this opinion. 
Surely the time, the set time, to favor the Chinese is come. Then- 
superstitions are literally "old and ready to vanish away." Their 
attachment to the government is very slight. They are daily 
gaining more correct notions of the power of other nations : the 
visit of the Constellation and Boston (now at Macao) has given 
them higher ideas of the American power than they ever before 
possessed. The success of the British will probably soon complete 
the subversion of their narrow prejudices, and they will be far more 
open to the reception of Divine truth in a few years than they 
have ever been before. It is all-important that the good seed be 



138 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

sown while they are in such a state. If we do not, the Roman 
Catholics certainly will gain the ascendency. 

As for myself, I am in good spirits and in good health. My 
cup is running over with blessings, and I now feel more anxious 
to remain and labor for these Chinese than I ever did before. But 
it is hard to find that my mouth is closed, and I cannot speak to 
them. How dreadful their condition and prospects, and yet they 
do not know it ! 

The instructions of the Committee, we understood, were that a 
station should be formed on the island, provided, 1st, that a suffi- 
ciently large lot could be purchased or rented under perpetual 
lease ; 2d, that the persons and property of the missionaries would 
be protected ; and 3d, that no restrictions would be laid upon our 
operations, either in preaching, teaching, or healing. The second 
and third provisos were easily answered. Full protection would 
be given, and no restrictions whatever imposed. The first, how- 
ever, was not so easily settled. A short time since, the island was 
put under military government, and all further grants of land for 
any purpose refused until further orders should be received from 
the home government. . . . 

Your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



China Sea, June 24th, 1842. 
Mr. John Lloyd — 

My Dear Brother : — I am often thinking of you, and, espe- 
cially of late, often wishing I had you out here along with me. You 
must come out to China. . . . 

Here I am all alone, and rather lonely, going down the China 
Sea against the monsoon, and wishing most heartily that I were 
on terra Jirma again, and settled down at my Chinese studies. 
Excepting sea-sickness, and a very slight attack of fever at the 
commencement of this last trip, I have been uniformly very well 
since leaving New York ; and have been enabled to see and hear 
a good deal, and to collect a good deal of information respecting 
China as a missionary field. I know you will be anxious to hear 
what I think of it in that respect, so I propose to tell you, in as 
few words as possible, what I think of it. You know how very 
unexpected it was to me that I should ever be a missionary to 
China.' It is not a year yet since my station was assigned to me 
in this part of the world ; and I came out with many fears and 
misgivings, and many doubts as to my fitness for such a station, 
and as to its suitableness for missionary labor at the present time. 
But what I have seen and what I have heard has shown me many 
things I never knew before, has opened up to me views of its vast- 
ness as a field for labor almost overpowering, and has taught me 
that many of its difficulties have been greatly overrated. It has its 
difficulties, and some of them, such as the evil influence of foreign- 



LETTERS. 139 

ers, though I knew of them before, are far greater than I had ex 
pected ; but on the whole I am greatly encouraged. There is a 
great work to be done, and the men are now wanted to perform 
it ; and it is not required that these men should be augels " greater 
in might and excelling in power" the rest of mankind, in order 
that they may perform it. The language can be learned, the 
people can be approached ; and I verily believe that China is now 
opening; certainly it is more open now than it has ever been 
before. Missionaries can now labor in Macao much more freely 
than ever before. Hong Kong will soon be perfectly open. Mis- 
sionaries are now at Amoy and Chusan, places where no Protestant 
missionaries have ever been before ; and those at Amoy and Chu- 
san, where the people have not been as yet corrupted by the evil 
influence and example of foreigners, represent them as an uncom- 
monly interesting people, easy of access, and free in their manners. 
They are heathen, of course, and have the vices of heathen ; but 
I am inclined to think that there is no people except the native 
Africans, among whom I would more readily labor, and with more 
hope of success, than among the Chinese ; and this I think is say- 
ing a good deal ; you know how promising a people I have always 
thought the Africans are. 

I am not able now to give you the facts on which I base the 
above conclusion. Perhaps I may at some other time. But I 
never felt so anxious to live long as I did several times in China, 
when I saw the Chinese around me, and wanted to preach Christ 
to them. I think I should rejoice to wear out a long life in Christ's 
service in China. 

I formed some very pleasant acquaintances among the mission- 
aries in China, most of whom I have seen, and some of them fre- 
quently. . . . 

There is an infinite fund of wisdom in our Lord's saying to his 
apostles, " Be ye wise as serpents." Missionaries above all other 
men, it seems to me, need to be men of prudence ; not actuated by 
impulse, but influenced by steady and enlightened principle. Cer- 
tainly nothing else will atone for the want of prudence, in a mis- 
sionary to China at the present time; A " prudent counsellor" is 
invaluable, especially now. And yet there is very great, danger of 
having prudence degenerate to timidity, and thus overpower our 
zeal. Surely we have need of wisdom from on high to direct us. 
I often think of Solomon's prayer for wisdom, when he was ap- 
pointed to rule over the numerous people of Israel. 

How are you coming on in matrimonial affairs ? Let me whis- 
per in your ears a good piece of advice. Keep your eyes open ; if 
you see one who would make you a good and prudent wife, by all 
means try and secure her. If you cannot find one that would be 
an helpmeet for you, consider it an intimation of Providence that 
you are to remain unmarried for the present, and come out single. 
Such was the principle I acted on in the United States, and 
after all I have felt and seen. I am more and more convinced, 



140 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

that it is the proper course to be taken. The missionaries here all 
recommend that a man should be married, but I believe they all 
abhor what are sometimes called " missionary matches," and I 
think most justly. I hope you will by example and precept dis- 
countenance all such things. 

How I should like to see you, and chat with you for a while ! 
Where are you ? what doing ? How are you getting on ? What 
are your prospects'? When will you be licensed ? Are you ready 
to come out here? or do the Nestorians still call forth your sym- 
pathies ? Do you still remember " the love of your espousals ?" and 
that bright and happy season at Jefferson College, with our many 
pleasant interviews, and the walks we took, and the prayers we 
offered, and the many conjectures and plans for future usefulness 
we laid? Some who started with us, and for a while promised as 
fair, have already gone back ; while others have already entered 
into rest. Why are we spared ? What are we doing ? Could 
we now rejoice to give up the account of our stewardship ? 

Farewell — and may the Lord we have so often delighted to 
worship together, still watch over and bless thee. 

August 12th. Dear brother, if you ever come to China, I hope 
you may not have to go up or down the China Sea against the 
monsoon. After fifty-three days' hard work, we have been obliged 
to abandon the effort, and are now going to Manila, to lay in fresh 
provisions, and prepare for another effort. The monsoon will be 
nearly over in a month, and then perhaps we may succeed. How 
often have I thought of you on this voyage, and wished you were 
here ! 

Affliction is a good thing to make one study the Scriptures. I 
never understood them half so well before, nor relished so much 
their precious promises. This has been a pretty severe trial to me : 
alone, with no Christian friend ; a boisterous sea ; hope deferred 
until the heart became sick, and then entirely cut off. But I have 
become pretty well reconciled to it, and can even rejoice, " for the 
Lord reigneth." Why he has thus disappointed my expectations, 
I cannot yet tell ; but no doubt for wise reasons. This affliction 
I trust is doing me good, and I shall yet justify Him in all his 
ways. 

Very truly yours, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



China Sea, June 22d, 1842. 
My Dear Mother — 

I have a prospect of a long, lonely, and perhaps tedious passage. 
And I know of nothing that may contribute better to cheer at least 
a few of its lonely hours, than to keep a quiet journal, connecting 
me once more with " home and home folks ;" so I pray you to re- 
ceive this little manuscript, as another proof, if proof were needed, 
that I have not forgotten you, and do not think of you with the 



VOYAGE ON THE CHINA SEA. 141 

less affection, though my letters may not at all times be composed 
with so many laboriously sought expressions of affection, and lonsr- 
ing desires to see you again, as you may sometimes meet with in 
the case of home-sick travellers. 

There were two vessels to leave Macao about the time I wanted 
to go to Singapore, the Oneida and the Sea Queen. The clay for 
the sailing of the latter was fixed, that of the former was not, and 
was uncertain. The Sea Queen would probably accomplish the 
voyage in one or two weeks less time, being better built for such 
a voyage. She was described to me as having " splendid accom- 
modations ;" while the price of the passage, at this season, was 
said to be " very reasonable." I thought it would be a good op- 
portunity of seeing something of an English sea-captain and offi- 
cers, who had been some time in this part of the world. On the 
whole, the advantages seemed to preponderate in favor of the Sea 
Queen ; so I engaged my passage. She was advertised to sail 
June 18th, (Saturday.) 1 was informed, however, on Saturday 
morning, by a clerk of the owners, that she would not sail till 
Monday, p. m., which suited me very well. So I got a Chinese 
boat on Saturday morning to take the boxes and a keg of specie 
on board. The distance was four miles at least, wind dead ahead, 
and quite a heavy sea all the time ; occasionally a sprinkling of 
spray came over me, as the boat had no shelter of any kind. 
It being impossible to sail against such a wind, the boatmen 
took their oars, and after two hours' hard pulling, finding them- 
selves still half a mile from the Sea Queen, they laid them 
down and put up the sail, intending to beat out the rest of the 
way. They made two tacks, which occupied another hour, and 
gained only half the distance. A heavy rain came on, making it 
impossible to see anything ; strong wind and heavy sea. The 
head man of the boat, who for some time had seemed disheartened, 
turned to me, and made a very significant gesture towards Macao. 
"No," said I, pointing to the ship, "there." "No can," said he, 
" no can, I go Macao ; to-morrow go seep." " No, no," said I, 
"go ship now, there." "No can.". "Yes can; put down sail; 
take oar ; go ship," said I, explaining myself more by actions than 
by words. But the fellow grumbled and repeated, " No can do ; 
no can do." " Yes, can do ; must do ; put down sail ; take oar ; 
go ship." All this in the middle of a soaking rain. After a good 
deal of persuasion, I at last succeeded in carrying my point, and 
the fellows put down their sail, took their oars, and, I must say, 
worked most heartily. In fifteen minutes, the rain was over and 
we were along side of the Sea Queen. I got my baggage safely 
stored, and being quite wet, I hurried on shore to get my clothes 
changed. The wind being quite favorable for going ashore, I got 
back in half an hour ; got up to Mr. Brown's, and changed my 
clothes. Late on Saturday, word came that the " Sea Queen goes 
to-morrow morning at daylight, and you will have to go aboard 
to-night." There was no help for it ; so I hastily packed up my 



142 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

trunk, said good-bye to my kind friends, to all of whom, and espe- 
cially Mr. and Mrs. Brown, I had become very much attached, and 
at half-past six, got aboard another Chinese boat to go out to the 
vessel. It rained several times pretty hard, yet we got out in two 
hours and a half. It was rather a stormy, uncomfortable prepa- 
ration for the Sabbath ; and I could not think without longing re- 
membrances of the many pleasant Saturday evenings on board 
the Huntress, and particularly of the " preparation," as " the Sab- 
bath drew near," at home. I wondered what you were all doing ; 
and whether you had any idea of my situation, — alone, weary, 
and half despondent. However, my troubles seemed to be over 
when I got safely on board, and I thought I should now in these 
" splendid accommodations," have at least a quiet and pleasant 
voyage to Singapore. But I began to think very soon, that I had 
reckoned without my host. My room is a good, large, airy apart- 
ment, and high enough for me to stand upright ; but it has no 
berth, though a large transom supplies the place of that ; no table, 
no wash-stand ; not even a wash-basin ; no lamp, no shelves, only 
one or two hooks, and one stool ; these are its " accommodations." 
The first thing I saw when I went in at night, was a host of large 
cockroaches, which made themselves perfectly at home there ; a 
quantity of spiders and spider's webs in every corner; and a very 
unpleasant odor, caused, I suppose, in great part, by the cock- 
roaches, to which, after three or four days' experience, I have not 
yet become accustomed. 

We were to have sailed at daylight Sabbath morning, but did 
not get off till ten o'clock ; had a head wind and rough sea ; and 
by ten o'clock, p. m., we had gone only ten or fifteen miles, and had 
to anchor just outside of the great Ladrone Island. Next day we 
did very little better, and beat about in sight of land all day. 
Meantime I felt very poorly, Sabbath morning, though not unwell. 
I could not fix my thoughts on anything. The business of our 
mission, and various plans, kept crowding into my mind. I tried 
to read the Psalms, Life of Martyrs, &c, but could not with any 
ease or pleasure. Afternoon, my head ached, tooth ached, hands 
and face were sore from being sun-burnt the day before, and I had 
a good deal of fever, which kept on me for several hours. I was 
tired lying down, yet too weak to sit up ; and it was too wet and 
unpleasant to be out. The officers were too busy to attend to me ; 
and Chun Sing, who is going with me to Singapore, was quite sea- 
sick himself. Oh, how often I thought of the Huntress, with her 
nice clean sweet cabins, her kind captain, pious mate, intelligent 
and quiet crew, and pleasant passengers. Everything seemed 
different here. I could hardly avoid murmuring, though at the 
same time I felt that I had many, many more comforts and mer- 
cies than I deserved, and after a while I became rather more satis- 
fied. Next day, I kept getting better ; got several refreshing naps, 
and in each of them had a sweet and pleasant dream. I dare not 
tell you the first, — it would amuse you too much. In the second, 



VOYAGE ON THE CHINA SEA. 143 

I dreamed that father and yourself had come out to Macao to see 
me. He wanted to go to Singapore in the Sea Queen, but I told 
him to go in the Huntress by all means. We had to part for a 
while, and I was very anxious for him to read the letters, and par- 
ticularly the official one, which I had that morning left in the 
hands of a young friend to be sent to America by the first vessel. 
I hope you have got them before now. I had some trouble to get 
the letters for him in time, and just as I got them, I awoke, and 
behold it was a dream. 

Nest day, Tuesday, I was better still ; and to-day, Wednesday, 
June 22d, I am quite well, and have things a little more comfort- 
ably fixed. I have told Chun Sing to come to my room every 
day, and read the New Testament, and learn the Shorter Cate- 
chism, &c. This is the strength of the S. W. monsoon, so that 
we have the wind strong and right ahead, and shall have it so all 
the way. Consequently, we have to sail one hundred and fifty 
miles at least, in order to make fifty on our course. 

Saturday, June 25th. Here we are still beating down the China 
Sea, but on the whole making very fair progress. As good success 
as we have had thus far would take us to Singapore in twenty 
days, and I should be pretty well satisfied to be assured we should 
be no longer. My situation, on the whole, is tolerably pleasant ; 
though I do sometimes feel sadly out of sorts. In the Huntress, 
when I had no other employment, I could sit and watch our 
sailors ; they were always busy, either working, or talking, or 
reading ; aud what they did, they seemed to do heartily. But 
these Lascars are the poorest set of human creatures I have ever 
seen ; they are not to be compared to the Chinese. There must 
be near fifty of them aboard, though the vessel is not much more 
than half as large as the Huntress, which had only twenty men 
and boys ; and yet these fifty do not do- their work half as well as 
those twenty. So many of them seize hold of a rope, that they 
are actually in each other's way. and they pull as if they were 
afraid of hurting the rope's feelings. And then, so dirty ; I have 
not seen one of them with a clean article of dress since I came on 
board. I must except the carpenter, who is a pretty decent-look- 
ing fellow. He is a Chinaman. It does me good to look at him. 
I do not want to see our butler at all, however, and least of all when 
I am eating, — with his soiled turban and faded shawl, dirty trow- 
sers, and apparently unwashed face and hands. 1 was always 
fond of potatoes, but I like them now better than ever, for they 
come to the table with their coats on, and I am sure they are 
clean ; cannot say the same of anything else at table. But, a 
man must eat, and there is no use of being so squeamish ; besides, 
I am usually hungry at breakfast time, half-past eight, and at 
dinner, half-past two ; and these are the only meals I eat. At tea 
I take but little, the tea is so abominable that I can not drink it. 
And the dry ship biscuit, the only bread we have, is not very in- 
viting by itself. 



144 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

I could bear these little matters, if other things were right. Our 
officers are to me quite gentlemanly, and personally, I have 'no 
complaint ; but, they evidently consider the men as of an inferior 
caste. And the men feel that they are looked upon as such. 
Some of the men have rather fine countenances, but almost all of 
them betray vacant minds, or, at least, minds filled only with the 
least important cares of this passing and perishing world. How 
can I be sufficiently grateful that I am made to differ from them ? 
As to religious services, at present there are none ; and this, more 
than anything else, makes me feel alone. The most pleasant oc- 
cupation I have, is to spend an hour every morning in teaching 
Chun Sing the New Testament, and the Shorter Catechism. And 
perhaps I may give another hour hereafter to other studies. 
Then I read Hengstenberg's Christology, History of Scotland, The 
Middle Ages, &c. ; study a little Chinese, and about China, <fcc. 
I write some every day : expect to have a host of letters writ- 
ten when I get to Singapore ; and if a vessel should be going 
thence to the United States direct, they will arrive sooner than 
those I wrote at Macao. 

The thermometer has stood about 84° all week ; to-day, 85°, 
but owing to the strength of the wind, the air has been quite pleas- 
ant. Numerous flocks of flying-fish are constantly starting up, as 
our vessel in her course disturbs them. What immense numbers 
there must be ! We probably startle some thousands every day, 
and yet the course of our ship is a very narrow line in the midst 
of a very wide sea. Sea sights have lost much of their novelty 
for me now, and I have to seek amusement and employment 
principally in myself. It is well for me that I can do so, and still 
better that there is one above me to whom I can always go. For 
three or four days after the voyage commenced, I could hardly 
bear the thoughts of its lasting thirty or forty days ; — but now I 
am disposed to say with cheerfulness, " The Lord reigns, let the 
earth rejoice !" Let him hasten or retard the end of this voyage, 
as seems best to himself, for He doeth all things well. 

Sabbath evening, June 26th. At the close of a silent Sabbath, 
my thoughts turn back to the land of my birth, and I cannot help 
asking, how are you all? And what are you doing? In a few 
hours I suppose you will be going up to the house of God. You 
have opportunities of communion with fellow Christians. Your 
hearts are cheered at the sight of churches, and though pained at 
the prevalence of wickedness, yet you can believe that the Lord 
has much people around you. It is not so here. I am alone, as 
far as Christian society is concerned, and almost alone as far as 
any society is concerned ; surrounded on all sides by lands where 
there is no Sabbath, few churches, few Christians. In such a sit- 
uation I find it a very hard thing to keep up the life of religion. 
At home one depends for the state of his religious feelings very 
it uch on the general tone of the churches around him ; here there 
is nothing of the kind to depend upon. Perhaps this is an ad- 



VOYAGE ON THE CHINA SEA. 145 

vantage, for it causes one to feel more entirely his dependence on 
God, the great Author of all true religious emotions; but it is hard 
at first, to become reconciled to such a state of things, and like 
David of old, I can well say, " I had rather be a door-keeper in 
the house of my God, than to dwell in the tents of wickedness." 
When you go up with the great congregation to worship God, do 
not forget those that are in the ends of the earth, and that are far 
off upon the sea. «True, God, your God, is our confidence ; but it 
is pleasant to think that we are thought of by you, in the midst 
of your privileges. The tears fill my eyes, and my heart is full, 
when T think of you and your enjoyments ; but I have no wish to 
go back. Blessed be the name of Christ for that precious promise, 
" Lo, I am with you always." 

And yet it is good to be in such circumstances occasionally. 
There are passages of Scripture that cannot be understood other- 
wise. I have often read over, and dwelt upon the eighty-fourth 
Psalm, and yet all my previous meditations, and all the commen- 
taries I have read upon it, have not shown me its sweetness and 
beauty, so much as this day's experience. 

Truly, •' Blessed are they that dwell in thy house ; they will be 
still praising Thee." But those who enjoy these external privi- 
leges, do not monopolize all the blessings. " Blessed is the man 
whose strength is in thee, in whose heart are the ways of them." 
Even in the most unfavorable circumstances, when far removed 
from the refreshing dews of God's house, they shall enjoy his 
favor. " Passing through the valley of Baca (weeping, Bochim,) 
he maketh it a well ; the rain also filleth the pools." (" As the rain 
cometh down from heaven, so is my word," &.c.) Such are the 
consolations of wanderers here ; and hereafter, after they have 
gone from strength to strength, " Every one of them in Zion 
appeareth before God." Such truths and encouragements may 
well strengthen a lonely wanderer to run with patience the race 
set before him ; and while he cannot but feel, that a day in the 
Lord's courts is better than a thousand, yet even here " the Lord 
God is a sun and shield ; no good thing doth he withhold from them 
that walk uprightly." How far superior is such a lot to that of the 
proudest of this world's favorites ; truly " my soul doth magnify 
the Lord, and my spirit rejoiceth in God my Saviour." 

Monday, June 27th. I did not expect to have been becalmed in 
the strength of the monsoon ; but we are. Have hardly gone 
twenty miles in the last twenty hours. I do not think, however, it 
will last long, but it tries the captain's patience a good deal. 1 
have been busy to-day, and happy, though alone. 

Tuesday, June 28th. We made eight miles yesterday, and from 
present appearances shall not make much more to-day ; though a 
little squall we had this afternoon, may have carried us on per 
haps five miles. I was very glad the squall came, for in the rain 
our dirty Lascars got a washing, that improves their appearance 
very much. I have now got to feel pretty well contented and at. 
10 



146 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

home, but would notwithstanding be very glad to be at Singapore, 
and better pleased still to be at Macao, or some place nearer 
China. 

As you wanted to know what we live on. I will give you the 
account of one day's fare. It has been precisely the same, every 
day since I came on board. Breakfast, at half-past eight ; tea, 
fowl or duck, salt beef, salt tongue, potatoes, rice and curry, guava 
jam. Our only bread is ship-biscuit. For (Jinner, at half-past 
two ; soup, commonly pea soup, fowl or duck, salt beef, salt tongue, 
potatoes, rice and curry, pudding, generally of some kind of dough 
and rather heavy, cheese, preserved ginger, or some similar sweet- 
meats. For tea, at six o'clock ; tea and biscuit. I have a won- 
derful appetite at present, and eat my salt beef and potatoes with 
very great relish. I suppose the above bill of fare will last all the 
voyage, unless the fowls and ducks should happen to give out. 

Wednesday, June 29th. With reading and writing and eating 
and sleeping, my time passes quite comfortably, though I often 
catch myself wishing to be at Singapore. Yet there is no use of 
being impatient. My principal reason for wishing to be at Singa- 
pore soon, is that I may the sooner be at my appointed business. 
But surely the Master on whose business I am sent, knows best 
when I ought to be there, and it is in his power to hasten or re- 
tard my arrival. He holds the winds, and can cause them to waft 
me on speedily, if He sees best. If He does not choose to have it 
so, certainly He has wise reasons for doing as He does, and I ought 
contentedly to submit. With such considerations, I try to allay 
the impatience I sometimes feel, at being delayed by these calms. 

Saturday, July 2d. Still progressing slowly. Had calms every 
day of greater or less duration, from Sabbath till to-day. Though, 
as we commonly had a little wind at night, and that such a wind 
as enabled us to proceed directly on our course, we have probably 
gone quite as far as we should have done, had the monsoon been 
blowing in its strength. Yesterday we did uncommonly well. We 
had a good breeze during the night, that carried us eighty miles di- 
rectly towards Singapore. To-day we are going perhaps faster, 
but not so directly ; we are running now between south-east and 
south, or to speak according to the compass, we are going S. S. E. 
Having been pretty busy, my time has passed away rapidly and 
pleasantly, though I do at times feel the monotony of this voyage 
quite sensibly, and often think of the Huntress. To increase my 
pleasure, the captain said that two months ago, as he was going 
from Singapore to Macao, he was becalmed ten whole days in sight 
of a small island near Singapore, and he believed he was fated to 
make long voyages in the China Sea. There ! while I am writing 
I see the sails flapping against the masts, and we are becalmed 
again ! What is so helpless a thing as a ship at sea in a calm ? 
How vain is all human power in such a case ! and oh, how much 
more dreadful, is the spiritual case of those who are deprived of 
; the influences of that Spirit, which is like the wind that bloweth 



VOYAGE ON THE CHINA SEA. 147 

where it listeth ! If Christians were half as anxious to obtain the 
influences of the Spirit, as sailors are to catch the breeze, what a 
different appearance the church would have. 

Wednesday, July 6th. The calm I spoke of Saturday p. m. lasted 
but a few minutes, and we have had the monsoon strong ever 
since ; strong wind, heavy sea, and slow progress. Yesterday we 
went fifteen miles west and fifteen south ; to-day, thirty miles 
west and twenty north ; so that, as far as latitude is concerned, 
we are worse off than we were two days ago. This morning the 
wind was so strong that it broke our main top-gallant-mast, and the 
men have been all day employed making a new one. There has 
been so much motion yesterday and to-day, and that of so un- 
pleasant a kind, that I could not study Chinese. Just as I get 
my pencil ready to make a neat stroke, away goes the ship ; and 
while I am busy holding to whatever I can catch, the ship stag- 
gers off, and leans over on the other side, and a wave rushes in at 
one of the lee ports. Still, on we dash on our foaming w r ay, and 
as yet no harm has befallen any of us. My situation is as pleas- 
ant as that of any on board, indeed more so ; a good large room, 
plenty to eat and wear, plenty of books and papers, and at present 
no responsibility. Yet I would like to be at the end of this voyage. 
We have now been out sixteen days, and are not halfway yet. 

These poor Lascars have rather a hard life ; their only food is 
rice, with a very little curry. They sit on the deck, and eat with 
their fingers, three or four out of the same dish. They sleep on 
deck, in the open air, with only a coarse piece of flannel for a 
covering. No provision at all is made for their accommodation in 
the " country ships," no forecastle nor berths. If it rains, they 
must let it rain, and sleep through it, or else keep awake. All 
hands are employed all day, and no watches are kept, as on board 
vessels manned by English or Americans. They may sleep all 
night, unless they are wanted, when the " tindals," or overseers, 
of whom there are four, answering to boatswain and boatswain's 
mates, sound their whistles, and call all hands. Six of them, 
however, at a time, watch for two hours during the night, and 
when the bells are struck, every half-hour, the one nearest raises 
a yell, for I can call it nothing else, which is repeated by the next, 
and so on through the whole six. This is to show that they are 
awake ; but, for all the watch they keep, they might as well be 
asleep. 

The l J glorious fourth!' 1 passed away without a word being said 
on the subject. I thought of it, and of the last fourth of July I 
had spent, at Marshall, Michigan, and how little I then expected 
to have ever been tossing about on the China Sea. Who knows 
what a day may bring forth ? 

Saturday, July 9th. The close of the third week of our voyage, 
and we hardly can say that we have gone half way ! We have 
come ten degrees of latitude, but we have ten degrees more of lat- 
itude, and eight of longitude, still to traverse : if we run west, we 



148 MEMOIR OF "WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

cannot go south ; if we run south, we must also run east ; thus 
making our distance in longitude greater. But why should I 
complain ? If hope is deferred, should my heart be made sick 
thereby, when I know that a Father's kind hand defers it ? I felt 
greatly reproved this afternoon, as I sat on the stern, and saw a 
large sea-fowl slowly sailing over the waters. Our Heavenly Fa- 
ther cares for it, and feeds it, even on these wide and rolling wa- 
ters ; am not I of more value than many such 1 Is not the work 
I am engaged in more for his glory, than the preservation and 
sustenance of the fowls of the air and the fish of the sea ? And 
if he cares for them, will he not much more care for me and carry 
me on ? Surely he knoweth what is best for me, and most for his 
owm glory. I will therefore commit my way unto the Lord, and 
trust also in Him. He will bring it to pass. Forgive me, dear 
mother, if I bring these things improperly to your eye ; I have no 
one here of kindred spirit with myself, and it is pleasant, even 
though on paper, and afar off, to give utterance to sentiments that 
I know will find a response in your own feelings. It seems tome, 
were I once more in the society of fellow-christians, I should prize 
much more highly than I have ever done, the opportunity of talk- 
ing of these things, — of " speaking one to another." 

Monday, July 11th. For two days we have been running west, 
and have made over three degrees ; but a strong current yesterday 
carried us more than a degree to the north of our position on Sat- 
urday. The officers are beginning to shake their heads, and pre- 
dict a long passage. We have all, I think, made up our minds to 
six weeks instead of four. The mate told me to-day, that the 
Sea Queen had never had a fair wind for a whole day since she 
was launched, about fifteen months since ! However, I do not 
know but that this voyage will prove a very profitable one to me. 
It reminds me of several facts that had almost entirely escaped 
from my memory. I had quite forgotten that the Apostle Paul, 
after heing in journeyings often, in weariness, in painfulness, &c, 
had also " thrice been shipwrecked, and spent a night and a day 
in the deep." So it seems even the best of missionaries did not 
escape from some troubles on the seas. I wonder if he had as fine 
a state-room as I have, and whether, in his voyages, he had to 
live on salt provisions and hard biscuit ! We have no journals 
nor diaries and the like, from the times of the Apostles, to tell us 
how they managed on such occasions ; but the more I think of 
the matter, the more I am inclined to believe that I am bejtter off 
as to outward things, than Paul, or almost any of his fellow-la- 
borers ; and therefore, so far, I have not much reason to complain. 
Still, I must say, I should not be sorry to exchange this ship's fare 
for a short residence in Singapore. However, the Huntress has 
spoiled 'me. The Sea Queen is a great deal better ship than the 
Anna Watson, in which Mr. McBride went to Amoy. 

I have since found a passage of Scripture much more to the 
point than the one above. Acts xxvii. 7. " And when we had 



VOYAGE OX THE CHINA SEA. 14$ 

sailed slowly many clays, and scarce were come over against Cni- 
dus, the wind not suffering us," &c. It has taken such hold of 
me, that I have laid it up for future consideration. 

Friday, July 15th. Through the obstinacy and self-will of our 
captain, we have less and less prospect of a speedy voyage. He 
has taken a notion that he will not go to the eastward of long. 112°. 
A strong current has prevailed for some days, which drives us 
northward, and has almost totally rendered our tacks to the south 
useless, yet he persists in keeping the ship off to the west ; conse- 
quently, for four days we did almost nothing. Last night the 
wind came out so strongly, that he could not go to the westward 
without going nofth of north-west, and after trying for six hours 
to go westward, he was obliged to give up, and put her head to 
the south-east ; consequently to-day we have made nearly a de- 
gree of southing, and I hope are out of the influence of the current 
which we have felt ever since Sabbath afternoon. I am heartily 
sick of this ship. The mates are rather clever men, but so ill- 
tempered and obstinate a man as the captain, I have hardly ever 
seen. He treats me civilly enough, but I have little pleasure at 
table, from the severity of his temper towards the servants. 

I am afraid you will think I make too much of these things, 
and I must confess, I never knew I had so impatient a spirit, as 
the delays of this voyage have stirred up in me. It has been a 
severe conflict within me, to overcome this impatience ; but, 
through grace, I trust I am now in a great measure resigned to 
these things; and perhaps, on the whole, this voyage will be one 
of the most profitable I have ever made. It gives opportunities 
for solitude that I have not had for months past, teaches me how 
to Value privileges I do not now x enjoy, discloses myself to myself, 
and forces me to rely not on human, but divine strength. 

We had quite a gale last night, with a very heavy sea ; so much 
tossing and pitching, that I scarcely slept the whole night. For 
the time it lasted, it was more uncomfortable than the gale off St. 
Paul's, where we had to lie to for twelve hours. We were almost 
lying to, the greater part of the last night, but now (p. m.) we are 
going on rather pleasantly. 

Monday, July 18th. About six a. m., on Saturday, the wind rose 
again with great force, and it was the middle of the day, yester- 
day, before it abated. In the gale on Friday, the wind split our 
fore-topsail and jib, and others had to be put up in their places. 
On Saturday the wind split the second fore-topsail, main-topsail, 
and spanker. Ship rolled prodigiously, and for a while things 
looked rather dark, as you may well suppose. A strong gale and 
heavy sea, and the wind dead ahead, are not very pleasant things. 
At the middle of the day on Saturday, we were not more than one 
degree further on our course than we were seven days before ; with 
a slight variation, we might almost have adopted Peter's words : 
" We have toiled all night and caught nothing." 

The captain's swearing and damning everything and every- 



150 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

body, had been so trying to me, that I was greatly at a loss to 
know what to do. It was very unpleasant to hear him, and it 
seemed like " suffering sin in him," not to tell him of it ; and yet, 
knowing his passionate temper, I felt afraid to say anything, lest 
it should only make him worse. However, I took the opportunity 
of speaking to him last night about it, when he seemed to be in a 
better humor than usual. I was most agreeably disappointed. 
He looked rather hard at me at first, but almost immediately said, 
" I know it is a very bad habit — a very bad habit. I feel it every 
time I do so. It must be very unpleasant to you. There is not a 
day I do not ask for forgiveness, but I can not break myself of it." 
We talked a good while about it, and I had the opportunity of 
dropping a good many truths to him, which may, perhaps, yet 
do him good. He said he had observed, that often when he was 
scolding and damning the men, I went down to my cabin. " I 
felt that, for I knew why you did it, and I am very sensitive to 
such things." He then tried to excuse it ; did not think it was 
very wrong, for he did not mean anything bad by it, &c. I re- 
ferred him to the words of the third commandment, " taking the 
name of the Lord in vain." To that he had nothing to say. He 
then said, one could not get along without it. " Here these men 
speak fifty languages : I can not understand them, and they can not 
understand me without I swear at them. They will not believe you 
are angry or in earnest unless you swear at them !" What a pic- 
ture of the moral influence of nominal Christians over the heathen ! 
and yet missionaries have to labor to convert the heathen who are 
employed by nominal Christians to work for them on the Sabbath 
day, and who can not understand a Christian, or believe him in ear- 
nest, unless he swears at them. Of course I protested against 
such an opinion, and said it could never be right or necessary to 
swear. We then talked about something else ; and during a 
pause in the conversation, he abruptly remarked, " I know it must 
be very unpleasant to you, and perhaps you sometimes thought I 
did it intentionally, but I did not." I remarked I thought him too 
much of a gentleman to do that. He would not promise positively, 
but said he " would try to break himself of the habit." 

The wind is such to-day, that we could go almost in a south 
course — S. by E. — but unfortunately there are a number of shoals 
in that direction, and this wind would carry us among them in 
twelve hours ; consequently, we are obliged to put off to the 
north-west, and the wind being strong, we "lose a point" in our 
course, by lee-way. Such are some of the troubles of the voy- 
ager's life. Do not forget to pray for the sailor. 

Tuesday, July 19th. Wind more favorable still ; we can go 
south, and sometimes even S. by W., but being still too near the 
shoals have to run W., and N. W. by N., more than half the 
time. Yesterday was the best day's work we have made in a 
long time, thirty miles west and sixteen south, equal to about 
thirty-three on our course, i. e., if the captain's observation was a 



VOYAGE ON THE CHINA SEA. 151 

good one, of which he is doubtful. We are now very seriously 
expecting that our trip will be of two months, instead of one 
month. But the Lord reigneth, I trust I can rejoice thereat. We 
certainly have evidence that He is watching over us. To-day, as 
I was lying on the transom, (there has been so much motion for 
a week, that it is very unpleasant to sit, and I spend more than 
half the time lying down,) very quietly reading one of living's 
sketches, I heard a great and unusual cry on deck. As it con- 
tinued, I ran out and found a man had fallen from the bowsprit 
into the sea. Most providentially, he caught one of the ropes 
thrown to him, before the ship had gone too far, and was drawn 
in. The sea was so rough, that the captain could hardly have 
let a boat down for him. Had it been night ; had the sea been 
rougher ; had he fallen on the other side of the vessel, where the 
waves would have carried him from her ; had he not been able 
to grasp the rope ; in any of these cases he would have been lost. 
But the poor heathen, if he thinks at all about it, Avill ascribe his 
escape to chance, or to some of his idols, as blind and helpless as 
chance. These poor fellows have a great horror of the sea. It 
is only by high wages that they will serve as sailors. These men 
get fourteen rupees monthly, or nearly seven dollars, a large sum 
for such sailors ; and after all, the greater part of the crews of 
the " country ships" are impressed by force, and carried off with- 
out their own consent. 

July 21st. Here we are, fifty miles north and thirty miles west 
of our station, day before yesterday. Quite a gale came on yes- 
terday afternoon, and we have been almost lying to for twenty- 
four hours. We have one duck, and ten fowls left, and nearly a 
certainty of having only salt meat for a few weeks to come, un- 
less Providence so order it that we get to Singapore next week, 
which might be done, even in this monsoon, under favorable circum- 
stances. The captain has begun to talk of allowances of wood, 
water and provisions. Outward things look gloomy. I do not 
say these things by way of complaint, for I feel less disposed to 
complain now, than at any previous part of the voyage, but to 
give you some idea of our situation. As to myself, I find the 
promises increasingly precious, and I think I shall soon have Acts 
xxvii. by heart. It becomes more and more instructive. Still, 
hope has not yet left me, that we may make a reasonable voyage 
as to time, though the prospect is more and more discouraging. 
Such times as these, head winds, tossing tempests, and adverse 
currents, make me think of that happy place, where " there is 
no more sea." 

The most unpleasant thing about our present situation, is its 
uncertainty. We may have a favorable wind to-morrow, and soon 
reach our "desired haven." We may toss about here for weeks, 
and at last not be able to make the port after all. But " the Lord 
reigns, let the earth rejoice. Clouds and darkness are. round 



152 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

about him, but righteousness and judgment are the habitation of 
his throne." 

July 22d. Worse and worse ; after running for eighteen hours to 
the N. W. and W. N. W., and six hours S. S. E., at the rate of 
four miles an hour all the time, we find ourselves twenty miles 
north, and ten miles east of our station yesterday ! The current 
here must be tremendous. We are almost at our " wits' end." 
We have now been beating about for a week, most of the time 
under double-reefed topsails, and have made almost no progress. 
Indeed, we are very little farther on than we were two weeks ago. 
Yet I am thankful to find that my own mind is calm and peace- 
ful most of the time. I should greatly regret to be obliged to put 
back to Macao ; and should be most heartily glad to be at Singa- 
pore, or to be assured of getting there in three weeks ; but it is the 
Lord who has " raised the stormy wind," and he has wise ends in 
view. It is not very comfortable being here. My health may 
suffer for want of exercise, there being so much motion, it is hard- 
ly possible, with safety, to take any ; the affairs of the mission 
may be retarded somewhat by my detention ; Dr. Hepburn may 
be in need of the funds I have with me, so may Mr. Buell. Our 
removal to China, should that be resolved on, may be delayed a 
good while, &c. ; but all these things are known to Him who con- 
trols my course, and He will care for his own cause. Oowper's 
hymn, 

" God moves in a mysterious way," 

is a very precious one, especially the last lines : 

" God is his own interpreter, 
And he will make it plain." 

Saturday, July 23d. Twenty miles to the east of our station 
yesterday ; same latitude. 

" Woe is me that I dwell in Mesech, and sojourn in the tents of 
Kedar !" I pray God, my dear mother, that neither you nor any 
other of my friends may ever be placed as I now am, at least so 
far as society is concerned. I have spoken before of the captain's 
temper. To-day, both at breakfast and dinner, it has broken out 
against the servants in a most unpleasant manner. I had almost 
got up from the table before dinner was half over. I do not won- 
der that they try his patience, for such a set I never saw. We 
have three to wait on the table, besides the cook and the dish- 
washer, and this morning they complained that there was too 
much to do ! There are but four of us at the table here, while in 
the Huntress two waited on eight, and did it incomparably bet- 
ter than these three, besides attending to the state-rooms, and keep- 
ing the cabin and all the dishes as clean and sweet as could be 
desired. These fellows never think of cleaning the cabins, and 
frequently I cannot find a clean tumbler to get a drink with ! 
More than once I have been obliged to send away the knife and 
fork they handed me, and tell them to give me clean ones. Still, 



VOYAGE ON THE CHINA SEA. 155 

it is very unpleasant to witness and be obliged to bear with such 
outbursts of temper. " Oh that I had the wings of a dove ; then 
would I fly away and be at rest." Do not think me discontented. 
I have felt and enjoyed for several days past, the power of religion ; 
and do generally enjoy great peace of mind, though at times I am 
" in heaviness through these temptations." How dreadful it would 
be to dwell forever in such society ! 

Monday, July 25th. I see the China Sea in an entirely different 
aspect this voyage, from what it was in May, when Ave went up. 
Then all was calm ; now all is stormy. We are lying to to-day 
again, after splitting three or four more sails. Yesterday and to- 
day have been so cloudy as to allow no observation, and we know 
not where we are. I almost begin to doubt whether we shall ar- 
rive at Singapore at all, during this monsoon. We have now 
been out the usual time required to make the trip, and the pros- 
pect is darker than ever. The captain talks of going to Manila 
to lay in fresh stores. We shall be obliged to do this before long, 
if we do not soon arrive at Singapore, as we have provisions for 
but little more than a month longer. However. I am not discour- 
aged. " Jehovah Jireh. In the mount it shall be seen." God is 
accustomed to reveal himself when his creatures are at their greatest 
extremities. I have been comparing my condition with that of 
the Lascars on board ; ill-fed, ill-clothed, ill-treated, working hard, 
few social, no intellectual, and, worse than all, no spiritual privi- 
leges. How much is my condition better than theirs ! 

Friday, July 29th. We are now near two hundred miles further 
north than we were last week, and about sixty miles further from 
Singapore than we were fifteen days ago. I thought that I under- 
took this voyage in obedience to the intimations of Providence, but 
hitherto they have almost all been against us. One gale this 
week drove us eighty miles to the northward in less than twenty 
hours ; head winds and adverse currents make it nearly impossible 
to proceed. Our provisions will last us but a month longer, and it 
would require almost all that time in favorable circumstances to 
make the remainder of our voyage. 

To be sure all anxiety, even on these points, is quieted by the 
recollection that Christ is " head over all things for the church," 
and that all things shall work together for good, to them that love 
God ; but sometimes I forget these things.* I would not willingly 
undertake another such voyage a* Miis, and yet I must say, so 
great have been the benefits which I nave received from this trial, 
that they far more than counterbalance all the inconveniences 
hitherto endured. Still we are not required to seek afflictions, and 
I should greatly rejoice to be one* more on solid ground ; yet 
while detained I hope to be sustained. 

Saturday, July 30th. The pleasantest day we have had for 
weeks ; a light clear sky, blue sea, little motion, and pleasant 

* I am not quite sure that I recollect right, but I think Bunyan makes Mr. Forget- 
good Mayor of Mansoul in place of my Lord Understanding, which is very appropriate, 

20 



154 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

breeze. At noon, the captain put his head into my room, crying, 
with great glee, " Hurrah, she springs it again ! We have made 
ten miles southing !" The first time we have been able to get to 
the south for a week, though we have had more favorable winds. 
This is a " little reviving in our bondage," among these currents. 
If it will only continue! In a case like this, one is in danger 
either of building too much on such a prospect as we have to-day, 
or, on the other hand, of " despising the day of small things," and 
being cast down, because it is no better. 

I was much struck with Isa. xxvi. 4, yesterday evening. The 
literal translation of the Hebrew is, " Trust ye in Jehovah even for- 
ever, for in Jah Jehovah is the rock of unending ages." No trans- 
lation, however, can give the force of the original. It is, I think, 
even more emphatic than " the five negatives," Heb. xiii. 5, on 
which you may have seen some very delightful remarks in Nevin's 
Practical Thoughts. I think if I ever know enough of Chinese to 
be of any service in translating the Bible into it, I shall find it a 
very pleasant employment. I find that in proportion as I closely 
examine almost any passage, it presents gems more and more 
sparkling. Thus, in the above passage, in addition to the triple 
mention of the name Jehovah, the peculiar name of God, as the 
Covenant God of his people, the first " forever" is literally " eter- 
nities of eternity ;" and the last expression is " the rock of ever- 
lastings." Well might the Psalmist (Ps. cxliv. 15,) say, " Happy 
is that people" (literally, O the blessednesses of that people,) 
" whose God is Jehovah /" 

Monday, Aug. 1st. Delightful weather and fair progress ; yes- 
terday, forty-six miles direct ; to-day, fifty-six to the east, and three 
to the south ; and wind getting more favorable. If this weather 
continues, we hope to be in Singapore in less than three weeks. 

Tuesday, Aug. 2d. Still progressing at a very fair rate. Saw 
the coast of Cochin China to-day, about thirty or forty miles off. 
It is high and mountainous, but we have not gone near enough to 
see its features very distinctly. The part we saw was Cape 
Varela, or the Pagoda Cape — so called from a very large rock on 
the side of the mountain, just behind the cape. It has a very 
singular appearance. 

Saturday, Aug. 6th. After going on swimmingly for four or five 
days, we found ourselves beset by a current yesterday, which be- 
came very strong to-day, and has sent us a long way to the east- 
ward. This casts rather a damp over our spirits. Where we are 
now, Lat. 11°, is the narrowest part of the sea, and if we meet a 
current anywhere it is likely to be here. Could we only get two 
degrees further down, we should probably be safe enough. To- 
day finishes our forty-ninth day, and yet we are hardly more than 
half way ; yet the weather is fine, and we still hope for the best, 
though I assure you it is quite trying. What shall the end of 
these things be ? Here I am all alone ; no, not alone ; for God is 
here, and He whose Providence did so remarkably arrest me a 



VOYAGE ON THE CHINA SEA. 155 

year ago. and turn my course from Africa to China, and has 
brought me hither, too, will not now desert me. Nothing encour- 
ages me so much in regard to my labors in this mission, as the 
recollection that I have been sent here. I should never have come 
of ray own free choice ; and I am sure that He who has sent me 
has work for me to do, for which he will strengthen me. It may 
be He has sufferings for me to endure, and though the thought of 
them almost makes me tremble, for the rod I have felt on this voy- 
age has been hard to bear, and for the present grievous, yet will 
his grace therein be sufficient for me. If he has neither work for 
me to do, nor trials for me to bear, then my course is almost done. 
And it is no further from this rough sea to heaven, than from the 
soft beds, and the kind and soothing attentions of home ; and 
never, I trust, either in this world, or in the world to come, shall I 
regret that I have left father and mother, and brethren and sisters, 
for the kingdom of heaven's sake. 

I could wish I had a Christian friend near. Even this commu- 
nion with you on paper, with " pen and ink," when I " have many 
things to say," and can write but a very few of them, is refresh- 
ing. How often I think of you! — of the hasty breakfast that 
morning. How Reuben was like a silent cricket all the time ; 
how Jane burst into tears when I came away ; of the meeting in 
the Mission rooms, and the kind friends there ; of the walk down 
to the ship, when the sun shone out so clear ; of the crowd, and 
the bustle, and the hurry there ; the parting. I can see you yet, 
waving your handkerchiefs for the last time ; brother John's laat 
blessing yet sounds in my ears ; and I think how poor Elizabeth 
was watching over Samuel's sick couch at the time. Again, I see 
you, and father, and Reuben. Now, the ship has moved, and I 
see you no more ! It is too much. I do not often weep ; but some- 
times : and yet they are not tears of sorrow, but of affection, and 
fond remembrance. In this world there is partings and sorrow. 
In this world there is perplexity and disappointment ; in this world 
we " shall have tribulation." But in heaven there is no more 
parting, and " no more sea ;" no more tribulation, for " sighing and 
sorrow shall flee away," not go away, butyZee away. 

******* 

[The rest of this Journal was destroyed, as stated on page 130.] 



156 



MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 




COURSES OF THE SEA QUEEN, HARMONY AND LONG BOAT. 



LETTERS. 157 

* 

China Sea, June 27th, 1842. 
Mr. John M. Lowrie — 

My dear Cousin : — . . . I can, as yet, hardly enjoy the sight of 
anything I see, for the overpowering conviction, that the inhab- 
itants of these lands are wholly given up to idolatry, and all 
going down to everlasting death. But I suppose in a few years, I 
shall acquire a sort of familiarity with such things, and look on 
them almost as matters of course. Here I am, urging my way 
down the China Sea, against the south-west monsoon. For a few 
days after coming on board, I felt very lonely indeed, but am now 
somewhat more reconciled to it. But I was hardly long enough 
on shore, (only three weeks,) to become ready for a month's con- 
stant application to books, and it requires some skill so to diversify 
my studies, as not to become wearied very soon. 

In thinking over what would be most pleasant and profitable in 
a letter to you, I cannot think of anything that would probably 
suit you better than to give you some idea of my employment on 
the voyage out. As you may have yourself to make a voyage of 
the same kind before very long, it will assist you some in selecting 
the number of books you will want, and helping you to form some 
idea of what you may be able to accomplish. We were one hun- 
dred and twenty-seven days out. Of this I was sick a week, too 
sick to do anything. Another week was spent in recovering from 
sea-sickness, and getting in proper tune to study, &c, and another 
week was taken from study by storms, anchoring at Angier, and the 
like. This left about one hundred days that could be improved. 
I preached every Sabbath except the first, and once in April, when 
we had a storm, and commonly prepared the sermon in the week 
beforehand. . . . 

I had about six hours daily on an average for my own studies. 
I may say here, that after the first two weeks, I spent near two 
months, with quite a zest in my studies. Then, as we were " run- 
ning down our easting," in Lat 40° south, we had a great deal 
of very rough weather. After that the weather was warm ; and 
I probably did less in the last two months, than in either of the 
preceding two. 

During the whole voyage, I read Genesis, and twenty-seven 
chapters of Exodus in Hebrew ; this always before breakfast. 
Went over Legendre's Geometry, and commenced Algebra ; but 
found the Mathematics dry work, and gave them up. Read Edwards 
on the Will, twice ; Hill's Divinity ; Neal's Puritans, — had read 
half before, and finished now ; Symington on the Atonement ; 
Winslow on the Spirit ; Smith on the Apostolic Succession ; about 
half of Hume's England ; D'Aubigne's Reformation ; Jesse's Court 
of England ; Bancroft's United States ; Carlyle's French Revolu- 
tion ; Lockhart's Napoleon ; Two Years before the Mast ; The 
Retrospect ; Phillips' Guide to the Perplexed ; Lyell's Geology ; 



158 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

Curiosity Shop ; Bamaby Rudge ; Pickwick Papers ; Poor Jack ; 
besides a good deal of miscellaneous reading, referencing, &c., and 
"writing a journal of some two hundred and forty pages, letter 
paper, which 1 hope will be in mother's hands before you receive 
this. In addition, I learned the names and the positions of the 
principal fixed stars. This, I believe, comprises all I did, at least 
I do not now recollect of anything more. It is not vanity that 
has induced me to make this statement, for I do not think I did 
near as much as I might have done, and I would not have men- 
tioned it at all, but that it may possibly be of some assistance to 
you hereafter. 

I found our ship on some accounts a good place for keeping up 
the spirit of piety ; on others, not so favorable. I was greatly 
favored in the fact, that the first mate was devotedly pious. I 
have seldom met a man more so ; the rest of our company were 
all persons who regarded religion with respect. But in so small a 
place, one cannot be alone. I never could pray aloud in secret ; 
could with difficulty keep a day of private religious exercises ; and 
sometimes could hardly even secure a short time for solitude and 
meditation, except by shutting myself up in my little six feet by 
four room, which, with the thermometer at 80° and above, was 
not very pleasant. The mate was always ready and glad to talk 
with me on religion, and many a pleasant hour did we spend, 
leaning over the ship's side, with the stars shining above us, talk- 
ing of spiritual things. But he, of course, could not counsel with 
me in regard to the affairs of our mission, and it was chiefly in this 
respect that I felt the want of a companion. The sailmaker, I 
think, is also a pious man, and I had several very pleasant talks 
with him. It has been on the whole a part of my life, to w T hich I 
look back with a very great deal of pleasure. I do not expect 
often to spend my time with more of pleasure and profit combined. 

I am now trying to study Chinese, but have not yet made a 
sufficient trial to speak with any certainty of my prospects. From 
all I could learn about it, however, from the missionaries and 
others, I do not feel discouraged. But I must close. The blessing 
of our common Lord rest on you evermore. 

Your affectionate cousin, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



China Sea, August 16th, 1842. 
Rev. T. L. McBryde— 

My Dear Brother : — I left Macao June 18th in the Sea Queen 
for Singapore. We expected a short passage down the China Sea, 
and it never entered into my head, that we should be unable to 
accomplish the voyage. But I have sorely found, that the Lord's 

ways are not as our ways, nor his thoughts as our thoughts 

After beating about for thirty-one days, we found our wood, water 
and provisions growing short, and as the current was then so 



VOYAGE ON THE CHINA SEA. 159 

strong that we could make no progress against it. we very reluc- 
tantly turned about, (Aug. 11.) and shaped our course for Manila, 
meaning there to refit. But our troubles were not over yet. The 
wind, which had been directly in our teeth, when we tried to go to 
Singapore, now, when we wanted to go the other way, first veered 
about to S. E., and then fell a dead calm, and for three days we 
made very little progress. This, as you may suppose, was not 
very pleasant. We were three hundred miles from Manila, under 
an almost vertical sun, and our water not likely to hold out many 
days. It seemed for a while as though Satan had received permis- 
sion to try us, somewhat as he did Job — first in our property, by 
delaying our voyage, and then in our persons, making us to appre- 
hend suffering from thirst. However, to-day things look rather 
more favorably. We had hoped to be in Manila to-day, but these 
calms have delayed us a good deal. A moderate monsoon would 
carry us there in two days, but it may be a week yet before we 
get in. I have no idea how long we shall remain there ; our cap- 
tain is very undecided on that point ; perhaps a week or two weeks, 
perhaps till the monsoon is over. In the latter case I am not able 
to say what I shall do, or which course I shall take. 

As you may suppose, this has been a good deal of a trial to me. 
.... Besides, there has been the disappointment of being so long 
delayed ; the fear lest you and Dr. Hepburn should become anxious 
about me ; the fear lest inconvenience should arise to our mission 
from my detention, &c. And yet with all these drawbacks, per- 
haps I ought to say through all these, I have scarcely ever spent 
a time so profitably to myself. Being alone, at times in danger, 
and in trial and temptation, I have been obliged to flee " unto the 
rock, that is higher than I ;" to examine more carefully the book 
and the ways of God's providence ; to commune with mine own 
heart in solitude ; and to learn and practise patience, submission, 
and the casting of myself, my friends, and the interests of the 
church on God. I find myself a slow scholar, and too often am 
like a " bullock unaccustomed to the yoke," yet I think I have 
already found that " it is good for a man that he bear the yoke in 
his youth." And so fully am I persuaded, that all these things 
shall yet work together for good, both to myself and the interests 
of the church as connected with our mission, that I would not if 
I might have them otherwise. 

Few reflections are more consoling to a Christian than this, 
that when he has diligently used all the means in his power to 
serve his master, he may safely leave the result with him, who 
overrules all things for his own glory. I should feel very unhappy 
at present, were it not for the belief in the doctrine of an overruling 
providence, which attends to all things, and without whose dis- 
posal no breeze can blow, no current run, and no disappointment 
occur. Whatever happens, He, who is " the Head of the 
church," will take care of the honor and glory of his own name, 
and we may well be satisfied with what he does, even though he 



160 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

should not let us now know what his purposes are. Hereafter we 

shall know 

Your brother in Christ, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Manila, September 1st, 1842. 
My Dear Mother— 

. . . When my journal comes to hand, which I hope it will before 
very long, you will have a fuller account of the various adven- 
tures and hair-breadth escapes, of the voyage from Macao to this 
place. It is rough and uncouth in many ways, but it has been a 
companion to me in loneliness and in dangers, and in pleasures. 
It made me think of home and of friends when the storm howled 
around me, and the billows tossed our ship as if they would over- 
whelm her and us in the black gulf beneath us. It made me 
think of home, too, in the calm sunset hour at sea, and it brought 
the tears to my eyes more than once, as the quiet hours of the 
Saturday and the Sabbath closed around me. I have laughed 
over some of its little tales, and wept over others, and insensibly it 
grew like a friend in whose welfare I was deeply interested, and 
when I sat in my silent cabin and was sorrowful that I had no 
friend to feel for me, or sympathize with me in my solitude, I 
laid my hand upon its pages, and said, wait awhile ; when she to 
whom it is addressed has read it, I shall lack no sympathy, and 
the very anticipation relieved me. Thus, though in itself it has 
small merit, yet its associations and nameless influences give it a 
value in my eyes, that I trust will not be wholly wanting with 
you. 

The houses here cover a great extent of ground, and are two 
stories high : the ground floor is used for offices, storage, servants' 
rooms, stables, &c., and the people live on the second floor. A 
verandah from four to six feet wide runs all round the second story 
of the house ; about four feet of the verandah from the floor is 
boarded up, and the rest up to the eaves of the roof is occupied by 
sliding frames, which are glazed, if I may use that word, with 
mother-of-pearl shells, instead of glass. The shells are cut into 
pieces about three inches square, and being semi-transparent, ad- 
mit abundance of light, even when the verandah is all closed up. 
Glass windows are not used at all, and as there is no winter here, 
there are neither stoves nor fireplaces. Just before my window 
there are two or three plantain trees, shooting up their broad leaves. 
One of the leaves before me, I should say, is nine feet long, and 
two feet and a half broad, of a beautiful green, and gently waving 
with the wind. By the side of the plantain is an areka tree, with 
branches of leaves of a much darker green, the branch of leaves 
being about half as long as a single plantain leaf. Half a dozen 
or more plantain leaves grow from the top of a plantain tree, and 
half a dozen branches of leaves from the top of an areka tree. 



VOYAGE ON THE CHINA SEA. 161 

Among the leaves of the areka tree, a couple of little brown spar- 
rows are now building- their nest ; beyond these are a few tropical 
plants, the names of which I do not know. By the side of the 
house, in front of my window, flows a branch of the river Pasig, 
in which I see a custom-house boat, with its sail-cloth awning ; 
several bankas, or row-boats, with mat awnings ; several canoes, 
and several heavy boats for carrying off cargo to the ships. On 
the other side of the water are several houses, with their shell- 
glazed verandahs, red tile roofs, and each house is surmounted by 
a cross ; while over the roofs of the houses I see the high steeple 
of the Binondo parish church, once white, but now blackened and 
discolored by age, with grass growing out of the cornices, and 
several bells in the cupola. One of the houses opposite is the place 
for depositing cocoa-nut wine, where several large boats are load- 
ing and unloading. This being a government monopoly, several 
sentinels are keeping guard at the gates. This being one of the 
hottest parts of the day, eleven o'clock, a. m., very few Europeans 
are to be seen ; but there are a number of native men about. They 
are very cleanly : dress consists of a pair of trowsers and a shirt, 
which hangs outside, and either a handkerchief or a hat on the 
head. They use a variety of colors for shirts and trowsers, but 
always very clean. . . . 

Yours most affectionately, 

W. M. Lowrie, 



Manila, September 8th, 1842. 
Rev. Thomas W. Kerr — 

My Dear Cousin : — .... My situation here is as pleasant 
as need be, except that I have nothing to do ; which, as you proba- 
bly know, is hard work. This is the rainy season in the Phillip- 
ine islands, and though it does not rain ail the time, yet it does 
rain every day. Consequently, the roads are in a wretched state, 
and one can hardly go out at all. The merchants with whom I 
am staying, are very polite and friendly ; but this is their very bu- 
siest season, and of course I cannot expect them to leave their 
business to attend to me. Nor indeed, if they were to leave it, 
could they do anything more for me than they do. But, dear me ! 
what am I writing? The fact is, I have a touch of the blues this 
morning, and am forgetting that I live like a prince here. This is 
a delightful country ; a perpetual spring prevails, and the richest 
fruits "are found in abundance. I feast every day on oranges, 
plantains, mangoes, custard apples, gnavas, lancones, &c. 

The islands are under the government of the Spaniards, but the 
mass of the population are Malays. They are a very cleanly peo- 
ple. I have never seen any more so, and when once you get used 
to the color, which is very much like that of our Indians, they are 
tolerably good-looking. They are all Roman Catholics, and very 
much attached to their religion, but withal very superstitious, and 



162 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWEIE. 

exceedingly ignorant. A beautiful custom, if it were only scrip- 
tural and sincere, neither of which is the case, prevails here among 
the people, as in all Roman Catholic countries. At twilight the 
church bells sound, everybody stops, and the streets which but a 
moment before were vocal with the rattling of carriages, and the 
hum of a thousand voices, become silent as a church. Each one 
repeats an Ave Maria ; again the bells sound, and all move on as 
before. I have sometimes in the evening been startled from a 
reverie, by the sudden stillness, and on looking out, have seen the 
streets crowded with motionless forms ; which, in a few moments, 
resumed their business as noisily as ever. But it is all a mere form, 
and has little or no influence on the heart. The priests are very 
bigoted, and the Protestants residing on the island are not allowed 
to have Divine service on the Sabbath, though no objections would 
be made to their having a grand ball on that day. The Sabbath 
is the great day for visiting and riding out, both here and in In- 
dia, and in China. Oh, how I long sometimes for our quiet, hal- 
lowed Sabbath days at home. 

Farewell. Pray for me. You have but little idea, at home, 
of the spiritual trials and privations of a missionary. 
Your brother in Christ, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Manila, Sept. 14th, 1842. 
Dear Brother — 

After spending about three weeks in Macao, and Hong Kong, 
very busily, but very pleasantly, and accomplishing all that seemed 
necessary at that time for the prosperity of the mission, a rather 
more than usually favorable opportunity of proceeding to Singa- 
pore was offered, which it seemed proper that 1 should embrace. 
It was a clipper bark, built near Calcutta, expressly for the trade 
between India and China, and intended to run. up and down the 
China Sea, both with and against the monsoons. It is probably 
known to most persons, that the monsoons are periodical winds 
that prevail in the Bay of Bengal, and among the islands that 
separate the Pacific and the Indian Oceans. Those that prevail 
in the China Sea, are called the North-east and South-west mon- 
soons. The north-east monsoon is commonly preceded by about 
a month of variable winds and frequent calms, and commences 
blowing from the north-east steadily in October. It continues till 
some time in April ; then follows nearly a month of variable winds 
and calms, and about the first of May the south-west monsoon 
sets in, blowing till the middle or end of September, and sometimes 
to the middle of October. This is the general division ; but these 
winds are subject to great irregularity in their commencement and 
termination. For example ; when we went up the China Sea in 
May, in the Huntress, we expected to have had the south-west 
monsoon steadily, though gently, in our favor ; but, to our great 



LETTERS. 163 

disappointment, experienced calms and light and variable winds 
during the whole of that month. It was formerly thought useless 
for vessels to attempt a passage through the China Sea, against 
either of the monsoons, but of late years fast-sailing vessels, and 
particularly clippers, and clipper-built ships, have very frequently 
succeeded in making a passage in the course of from twenty-five 
to thirty-five and forty days. In the year 1841, several vessels 
passed down the China Sea, from Macao to Singapore, in the 
months of June, July, and August, without any difficulty. Among 
others, the captain of the Sea Queen, in which I took my pas- 
sage, who was then chief mate of another vessel, had made the 
passage in thirty days, with delightful weather the whole time. 

The prospect of another month at sea, after having just finished 
a four months' voyage, was not very pleasant ; but the instructions 
of the Committee and the state of the mission seemed to require 
it, and full of hope, and anticipating a pleasant voyage, and safe 
arrival at Singapore, I embarked in the Sea Queen, June 18. 
Our progress for two or three weeks, though slow, was still toler- 
ably good ; and as nothing else of special interest occurred to 
occupy my attention, I had an opportunity of learning something 
of the character and regulations of a "country ship." This is a 
term applied, not to vessels belonging to the natives of these 
countries, but to vessels built in the East Indies, owned and com- 
manded by Europeans, and manned by Hindus or Malays. The 
greater part of them are built in India, of the teak, and other hard 
woods of that country, and their cordage is made of the fibres of 
the husk of the cocoa-nut. They trade principally between India 
and China, touching, however, at the intermediate ports. They 
carry rice, opium, and other articles to China, and return with 
teas, silks, Chinese manufactures, and the like, to India ; fre- 
quently making two, and occasionally three voyages in a year. . . . 

It is of course necessary for the officers to acquire some knowl- 
edge of the Bengali language, as the crew cannot be expected to 
learn English. A very small smattering, however, commonly 
serves their purpose, consisting simply of the nautical terms neces- 
sary for the regulation of the ship : (barra bras, mainbrace ; garva 
bras, topsail-brace ; deman, sheet ; stringee, clewline ; bobber, 
weather ; barraka, sea, &c.) The serang and tindals are sup- 
posed to know so much of what is needful, for the management 
of the ship, as to require but little direction from the higher 
officers 

For ten days we made tolerably good progress ; we then had a 
week of calms. Nothing is more trying at sea than a calm : yet 
it is true that scarcely any sight is so beautiful as that of the ocean 
in a perfect calm, — provided it does not last too long. The water 
then becomes of a blue color, as beautiful as that of a field of flax 
in bloom : a few light or golden clouds float in the sky, or mirror 
themselves in the sea : while all around the surface of the water 
is calm, and smooth as glass, varied only by a heaving, as gentle 



164 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

as that of a sleeping infant's bosom. Now and then a faint light 
air causes a gentle simmer or a ripple on the water, like the smile 
on an infant's face when dreams are pleasant in its soul. Espe- 
cially is the sight beautiful in the evening, when the sun's last 
rays are reflected from the resplendent wave, and a sea of liquid 
gold seems to mingle with the bending heavens. I have sat by 
the ship's side for hours, gazing around, and mentally exclaiuir 
ing : No earthly painter, and no earthly pencil, ever drew such gor- 
geous, such delicate, and such beautiful scenes as these, and yet, 
they are but transient reflections of that glorious place, where, 
though " there is no more sea," such as here we cross, yet there is 
a " sea of glass, clear as crystal," and that glass not frail and per- 
ishable as ours; but "pure gold, transparent as glass." Surely 
to stand on that sea of glass, having the harps of God, and to 
sing the song of Moses and the Lamb, will amply repay a few 
years of toil, and disappointment, and suffering, on the restless sea 
of life ! 

Yet, beautiful as were many of the scenes witnessed in the 
calms, nothing is more wearisome, and we were soon so tired of 
them, that we wished for any other kind of weather. The S. W. 
monsoon soon recommenced, and blew very strongly. The wea- 
ther became unsettled, and during the course of a month, we had 
almost constant gales, during which we lost our maintop-gallant- 
mast, and had so many sails torn by the wind, that sometimes we 
had not a topsail to spread. In addition to the strong wind and 
heavy sea, (for three weeks we had not a dry deck to walk upon, 
on account of the constant breaking of the sea over it,) we were 
exceedingly embarrassed by adverse currents. Several days, when 
we thought we had made tolerably good progress to the south- 
west, we found, by observations, that we had actually been carried 
ten and twenty miles to the north-east. If our ship had not been 
almost new, she could scarcely have sustained the strain that came 
upon her. As it was, it was necessary to have the men at the 
pumps two or three times every day. As may be supposed, in 
such circumstances, our progress was exceedingly slow. We fre- 
quently lost as much in one day as we had gained in three or 
four ; and after beating about for thirty-one days, we found our- 
selves, August 11, only one hundred miles nearer Singapore than 
on the 10th of July preceding 

It has often been said, and with truth, that no trial which a 
missionary experiences, is greater than that of being deprived of 
the advantages of Christian society, and of the privileges of the 
sanctuary. Such I found to be the case ; and it was difficult at 
times to refrain from tears, when the Sabbath came round, and the 
recollection of its peaceful and hallowed scenes at home rose be- 
fore me, in contrast with the solitude of the dark and foam-crested 
waves, where, alone, I had no fellow-Christian with whom to wor- 
ship God. Truly, " Blessed are they that dwell in thy house, they 
will be still praising thee." But it was pleasant to think, and to 



SHIPWRECK ON THE HARMONY. 165 

experience that those who enjoy these external privileges, do not 
monopolize all the blessing. " Blessed is the man whose strength 
is in thee, in whose heart are the ways of them." .... 

Finding at last that we could not make head against the cur- 
rents, and that our provisions were nearly exhausted, we very re- 
luctantly turned about, and shaped our course -for Manila, where 
we arrived safely, August 3d, sixty-six days after leaving Macao. 
And yet, great as was our disappointment, we found abundant 
cause for gratitude. The bad weather we had experienced had 
extended over a large part of the China Sea. An English vessel 
had been wrecked, not far from ours. Her captain and mate were 
drowned, and the crew obliged to go to Manila, in their boats. 
Several other vessels had been driven back with damage, and al- 
most all the vessels in Manila Bay had dragged their anchors, 
while one or two of them were driven on shore. Yet we had es- 
caped without any serious injury. 

I arrived at Manila a perfect stranger, not knowing even the 
name of a single person here. There were no Protestant mission- 
aries in the Phillipine Islands, and Manila is almost the only port 
from Chusan in China to Calcutta in India, where I could not 
have found persons whom I knew, or with whom, from similarity 
of pursuits, I could not speedily have formed an acquaintance. 
Yet I had not been ashore an hour, before I found myself most 
perfectly at home in the house of Mr. Moore, a merchant from 
Boston, and at present acting as United States vice-consul. 

Such, dear brother, is my story. It may give you an idea of 
some of the difficulties of the navigation of the China Sea, and 
lead you to unite your thanks with mine for the goodness of God 

which has so manifestly attended me 

Your affectionate brother, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



SHIPWRECK ON THE HARMONY. 

Having engaged a passage from Manila to Singapore in the 
Harmony, I went on board with the captain about noon, Septem- 
ber 18, 1842, and found Messrs. M. and G., my two fellow-passen- 
gers, already there. It was quite calm, and we did not start till 
eight o'clock, p. m., when a fine breeze sprang up, and as the 
moon was shining brightly, we got under weigh, set studding-sails 
alow and aloft, and went off in full sail. The ship was deeply 
laden with more than six hundred tons of sugar, and drew nine- 
teen feet of water. She was counted one of the fastest sailing 
British merchantmen in the Chinese waters; but with such a 
cargo the captain feared she would not sail as well as usual. 
However, she kept up with the Cecilia, a swift English bark, and 
not near so deeply laden. It was a lovely night, and everything 
looked so favorable that we were all in high spirits, and had great 



166 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

hopes of a speedy voyage. By daylight next morning* we were 
fifteen or twenty miles outside of Corregidor, which was much 
better success than we had allowed ourselves to anticipate. 

It was quite calm during Monday morning ; but in the afternoon 
a breeze sprang up. The Cecilia had gone ahead of us; but 
when this breeze fairly set in we caught up with her, and in three 
or four hours had'left her five miles astern. This settled the point 
of the Harmony's sailing, and gave us great hopes of her future 
performances. The breeze gradually increased to a gale, and on 
Wednesday morning we were under double-reefed topsails, with 
a tremendous sea astern. I was strongly reminded of the waves 
in a gale off the Cape of Good Hope. The vessel being very 
deeply laden, shipped a great deal of water : immense waves piled 
themselves up several feet above the bulwarks, and came tumbling 
in on deck, and the cabin was flooded with water several times. 
I was standing by the cabin door once, when a sea came over the 
ship's side, and before it was possible to escape, the water was up 
over my knees. The gale increased to a storm by noon, (Wed- 
nesday,) and though we were going right before it, its violence 
was so great that we were at last obliged to lie to, under a close- 
reefed main-topsail, and foretopmast-staysail. Being from the 
east, it had helped us on wonderfully in our course. 

The gale moderated during the night, and the sun shone out 
the next day, though the sea continued rough. Friday was a 
pleasant day ; and my sea-sickness being now over, everything 
was agreeable. Being now pretty well acquainted with the ship, 
the comparisons I made between her and the Sea Q.ueen, in which 
my last voyage was made, were by no means favorable to the lat- 
ter. The Harmony was a superior vessel in every respect, except 
that her cabins, though all on deck, were not so well ventilated 
as those of the Sea Queen. But the masts, rigging, and sails of the 
Harmony were stronger and neater. She was a better sailer ; her 
crew were Englishmen, and her steward (an important considera- 
tion to a passenger,) though by no means a neat, driving fellow, 
was so far superior to the filthy butler of the Sea Q,ueen. that the 
two should not be named on the same day There were a few 
cockroaches, but no ants or centipedes. Her captain was a stout, 
hearty, good-humored Scotchman, with somewhat of the Scotch 
pronunciation and accent. He was an intelligent and independent 
man, a perfect sailor, full of sailor phrases, and as fond of his ship 
as if she were his wife. He was kind and yet strict with his men, 
and therefore liked and obeyed by them. He used no profane 
language, (certainly never in my presence,) and was very atten- 
tive to the wants of his passengers. 

* We sailed on Sabbath, September 18th. It was Manila Saturday, and I ob- 
served Monday, September 19th, as Sabbatb. The day before had been observed as 
Sabbath by the men, who had nothing to do except to get the ship under weigh in the 
evening. As we sailed on Sabbath the ,: morning" above mentioned was°Monday 
morning. 



VOYAGE AND SHl'PWRECK IN THE HARMONY. 167 

Saturday, September 24, was a cloudy day, wind from the west, 
and our course nearly south. The captain could not get an ob- 
servation of the sun, but, by his reckoning, we were at noon in lat. 
11 deg. 53 mill. N., and long. 114 deg. 20 min. E. This was a 
very unpleasant position, being but fifteen or twenty miles north 
of the North Danger — a small island, with not a tree on it, and a 
reef all around, which marks the north-western limit of the dan- 
gerous archipelago of shoals in the China Sea. Accordingly, every 
effort was made to get to the westward, but the wind now became 
unsteady, veering about so much, that it was hardly possible to 
keep the ship on any course, except to the north-east, which was 
directly contrary to the course we wished to go. 

Sabbath morning (Sept. 25) was dark, cloudy, and squally : 
there was a heavy sea, and a rolling ship, with frequent showers, 
a hazy atmosphere, and exceedingly baffling winds. About ten 
o'clock, a. m., the wind became steady at S. W. ; ship went off 
W.N. W. five or six miles an hour, under double-reefed-topsails, and 
the weather began to look less threatening. At noon the captain 
came down and changed his wet clothes, being the third time 
that day, and said the prospects were more favorable. We had 
tiffin, and he remarked incidentally, that he had just been sending 
men aloft, but no dangers were to be seen, as the sea was clear on 
all sides. We were all in excellent spirits, and amused ourselves 
with conjectures as to the probable length of our voyage. After 
tiffin the captain took his segar and went on deck, and the pas- 
sengers exchanged a few more sentences as to the time of arrival 
at Singapore, and were about quietly reclining on the sofas to 
read, when the ship struck against some obstacle with tremendous 
violence. It impeded her onward motion in a moment. We 
started to our feet ; again she struck, and again she reeled like a 
drunken man. The deck quivered beneath our feet ; and on going 
out we found the men running about, the officers giving their or- 
ders, and the terrified steward groaning and wringing his hands 
at the cabin door. So violent were the strokes, that I was appre- 
hensive of the ship being broken to pieces, and ran to get my life- 
preserver. By the time I had it half inflated, the ship had beaten 
over the shoal, and I went up on the poop-deck. The captain 
had changed the ship's course, and I found him giving his orders, 
and pacing the deck>jn great agitation. The shock had been so 
sudden and unexpected, that he, as well as every one else, was 
taken completely by surprise. I had scarcely time to speak to 
him, or to reply to some observation that he made to me, when 
the vessel struck again with even greater violence. The sea was 
boiling in short uneasy waves on all sides, and we seemed to be 
above some deeply sunken rock, on which the ship's bottom was 
dashed every time she sunk in the hollow of the waves. Through 
the violence of the blows, large pieces of her keel were broken off, 
and rose to the surface ; and the copper was torn off in masses 
from her bottom. At one time we could both see and feel the 



168 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

middle of the ship rising up, while her stem and stern sank down. 
In sailor's phrase, her " back was broken," and for a moment I 
fully expected she would break in two. 

It was an awful time : a strong wind ; a heavy rain falling, 
and an unquiet and restless sea ; yet there were no breakers and 
no discolored waters— the usual signs of a shoal, — -and although 
in the intervals of rain we could see at least ten miles on every 
side, yet there was neither island, rock nor breakers in sight : nor 
any other sign of danger. Of this I am certain, for the captain 
requested me to look round and see ; nay even when we were 
upon the shoal we could see nothing, for I looked over the ship's 
side when she was striking most heavily, and nothing was visi- 
ble beneath the dark waters. Such shocks must be as dreadful 
as those of an earthquake, perhaps more so. They were the 
blows of an unseen enemy, and we could not tell at what mo- 
ment we might receive another which should send us at once to 
the bottom. 

The pumps were immediately manned, and the water that 
came up tasted sweet ; it had already reached the sugar in the 
hold. On sounding the well three feet of water was found. The 
four pumps were kept constantly going, the main hatchway 
opened and sugar thrown overboard to lighten the vessel, but this 
was soon abandoned. Some of the men were employed in getting 
the boats ready in case of emergency ; we packed up a few 
clothes and valuables in as small a compass as possible, and 
waited in suspense for the result. As you may well imagine, I was 
on my knees more than once. It was a solemn time : but my 
mind was kept in a calm and composed frame. 

We struck about half-past one, p. m. In less than an hour the 
vessel had three feet of water in the hold. In two hours more it 
had increased to six feet ; in less than another hour there was 
seven, and in twenty minutes more seven feet and six inches ; and - 
this though the four pumps were kept constant^ going, and all 
drawing well. It was now near five o'clock, p. m., and it being 
evident that the ship must sink, the pumps were abandoned and 
the boats got ready. It was very providentially ordered for us 
that the masts had not fallen when the ship struck so violently, 
as, in that case, it would have been difficult to get the long boat 
out. It was after dark, perhaps nearly seven o'clock, when the 
boats were ready, and we found it a work of difficulty and danger 
to get into them ; for with the heavy sea running they rose and fell 
more than ten feet every minute. It was arranged that twenty- 
one, including the captain and passengers, should go in the long 
boat, and the mate and seven men in the jolly boat. "We man- 
aged to get in about seven o'clock, and pushed off from the ship. 
She was then settling fast in the water, which was already nearly 
on a level with her deck. The lights were left burning in her cabin, 
and the noble ship, which on that very day one year before com- 
menced her first voyage, was left a shattered, sinking wreck. We 



SHIPWRECK OP THE HARMONY. 169 

wanted to see her go down, but as the sea was rolling heavily, 
wind high, and a drenching rain falling, it was neither comforta- 
ble nor safe to stay by her, and we kept the boats before the sea 
by means of small pieces of canvass. They had four oars in the 
jolly boat, and we had had as many, but three of them were 
broken in keeping the boat from dashing against the ship's side : 
thus we found ourselves in the open sea, four hundred miles from 
land, with only a single oar. A heavy rain fell almost constantly 
till midnight, from wiiich we could have no protection, and in a 
few minutes we were drenched with the rain and the spray, which 
every now and then dashed over us. The boat, with so many 
persons in, was very deep in the water ; and to add to our discom- 
fort and apprehensions, leaked a good deal, so that one person 
was constantly employed in bailing her out. About midnight the 
wind and sea abated somewhat, the clouds dispersed a little, the 
moon dimly glimmered in the sky, and we kept on slowly to the 
north. Owing to the weather I had slept almost none the night 
before, and exhausted with want of sleep, anxiety and fatigue, I 
managed to rest a little towards morning, though how or where 
it would be hard to say. 

On Monday we rigged a couple of masts, and with a royal stud- 
ding-sail, and main-skysail, which had been thrown into the boat, 
we mustered a very respectable foresail and mainsail, using our 
whole oar, and one of the broken oars for yards. The boat was 
then lightened, by throwing overboard everything that could pos- 
sibly be spared ; the baggage and provisions were packed as neat- 
ly as possible, and a man and boy taken in from the jolly boat, 
which made our whole number nineteen men and four boys ; a 
large number for a boat only twenty-one feet long, and eight feet 
broad. The provisions were then examined, and we found there 
was bread enough to last a week or ten days, but that we had a 
very small quantity of water. There could not have been more 
than eight or ten gallons. This was a cause of no little anxiety, 
for by our calculations we could not be less than four hundred 
miles from Manila, (whither we now directed our course,) and at 
that season of the year, calms, and even head winds, which would 
make our passage long, were not unlikely to occur. Accordingly 
all hands were put on an allowance of half a pint of water daily, 
and bread in moderation. The water was served out twice a day 
in a cup which held a gill, and all drank out of the same cup. 
I had put a little keg of crackers on board, which kept dry when 
all the rest were wet with rain and salt water, and also a small 
box of raisins, which proved very acceptable. We had a few 
cheese and some cocoa-nuts, the milk of which served us for two 
days, thus making a great saving in our little stock of water. 

This (Monday) was a tolerably pleasant &ay. Pieces of can- 
vass were nailed round the sides of the boat to keep out the spray, 
and having a fair light wind, we made some progress on our 
course. The sun shone out brightly in the afternoon, and dried 



170 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

our wet clothes, and most of us slept well that night. We began 
to cherish hopes of arriving at some land ere long. 

Tuesday was a terrible day. Not a cloud in the sky ; scarcely 
a breath of wind, and the hot sun of the torrid zone beating full 
upon us. There was but one umbrella in the boat, and we could 
not hoist an awning : but being sunburnt, and even blistered, was 
the least evil. Half a pint of water on such a day, when tanta- 
lized by the sight of an ocean of water, so clear but so salt, was a 
small allowance, and I almost prayed to be swallowed up in the 
raging sea, rather than be suffered to linger in so dreadful a con- 
dition. Yet there was no murmuring, and we all kept up our 
spirits. 

As the jolly boat sailed much faster than ours, it was thought 
best she should go on ahead. She could be of no service to us, 
nor we to her, by keeping company, and by going on, she might 
escape danger, and even find means of assisting us. Accordingly 
she left us this afternoon, and we afterwards regretted deeply that 
she had not done so sooner. This night I slept badly ; the bag- 
gage had been shifted to put the boat in better sailing trim, and 
there was not room to place one's self comfortably ; lying down 
was at any time out of the question, for want of room. A fine 
favorable breeze sprang up soon after dark, and we made good 
progress. 

On Wednesday the breeze became stronger, with a heavy sea. 
We went rapidly on, and in our lonely course found amusement in 
watching the large flocks of boobies that in some places almost 
covered the sea. They came around us in great numbers, and 
alighted on the yards, and even on the sides of the boat. In his 
eagerness to catch one the boatswain fell overboard, affording us 
all a hearty laugh at his expense. Several showers fell near us 
about dark, and we hoped to have caught some water, but could 
not. Slept miserably. In the part of the boat where I was, 
which was about six feet by eight in size, there were four persons 
to sleep, and one constantly employed in bailing out the water. 

Thursday morning commenced with rain, which soon wet us to 
the skin ; but we did not mind that, for we caught several buckets- 
full of water, which, in the low ebb of our water-cask, gave us great 
joy ; and we ate our breakfast in high spirits. For fear of suffer- 
ing from thirst, I ate but little, seldom taking more than three 
small crackers a day, and a mouthful of cheese with a bunch of 
raisins. 

From the progress we had made the night before, we had great 
hopes of seeing land either to-day, or early on the following, but 
we soon began to think of other things. About ten o'clock the 
wind rose, the sea ran very high, and frequent squalls of wind and 
rain darkened the heavens and drenched us to the skin. The 
captain sent the best helmsman to the tiller, and sat down himself 
by the compass, and for eight long hours he did not move from 
his seat. Conversation ceased; and scarcely a word was uttered 



SHIPWRECK OF THE HARMONY. 171 

in all that time, except the orders from the captain to the helms- 
man, " Port ! Port your helm, quick ! Hard a-port ! Starboard 
now ! Mind your port-helm," &c. Many a longing, anxious look 
did we cast before us to see if there were any signs of land ; but 
still more to the west, to see if the gale gave signs of abating. 
But no ! Darker and darker grew the heavens over us ; higher 
and higher rose the sea ; louder and louder still roared the waves 
as they rushed past our little boat, and faster fell the rain. If a 
single one of those waves had come over the boat's side, it would 
have overwhelmed and swallowed up the boat, and every one on 
board ; and it was only by the utmost care and skill that she was 
kept before them. 

Death never seemed so near before. An emotion of sorrow 
passed through my mind, as 1 thought of my friends at home who 
would, probably, be long in suspense in regard to my fate; and of 
regret, as I thought of the work for which I had come ; but for 
myself, my mind was kept in peace. I knew in whom I had be- 
lieved, and felt that He was able to save ; and though solemn in 
the near prospect of eternity, I felt no fear, and had no regret that 
I had perilled my life in such a cause. 

Thus the day wore away, and night approached without any 
signs of more moderate weather. The wind was now so strong, 
and the sea so high, that it was with the utmost danger that we 
could hold on our course. Everything was wet, and we tried in 
vain to get' a light for the compass; besides, by our calculations, 
we could not be more than thirty or forty miles from land ; and at 
the rate we were going, should reach it about midnight ; but to 
attempt to land in such a sea, in the dark, would be madness it- 
self. What could we do? Backwards, or sideways, we could not 
go, on account of the sea ; to go forward was to throw our lives 
away ; to remain where we were, even if it were possible, seemed 
to be remaining in the very jaws of death. It was, however, our 
only hope, if hope it could be called, and accordingly preparations 
were made for heaving the boat to. The foresail was taken down, 
and securely fastened to the yard; the largest cord we could mus- 
ter (about thirty fathoms) attached to this and to the boat. The 
mainsail was then lowered, and watching our opportunity, the 
foresail was thrown overboard, cord paid out, and the boat's head 
turned to the wind. This last was a most perilous operation ; for 
had a wave struck her while her broadside was exposed to it, all 
would have been over with us. The plan, however, succeeded 
admirably. The little foresail being between the wind and the 
boat, it served to break the force of the waves ; and as it lay flat 
on the water, it was not acted on by the wind ; and thus served 
also as an anchor to keep the boat's head to the wind. We then 
had the mainsail hoisted up in the form of a staysail, to keep the 
boat stead)', and thus we were hove to. 

For a while, the result was very uncertain. The wind howled 
past us with a force that made every plank in the boat quiver ; the 



172 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

rain fell in torrents, with the violence of small hailstones, nearly 
all the night ; and we could hear the great waves as they formed 
and rose away ahead of us, and then rushed toward us, with a 
sound like the whizzing of an immense rocket. Sometimes they 
would strike us as if with a heavy hammer, causing the boat to 
jump bodily away ; and then again, their white, foaming, phos- 
phorescent crests would be piled up by our sides, as if, the next 
moment, they would dash in and overwhelm us in an instant. 
There we lay, packed together so closely that we could scarcely 
move ; while every now and then, a clash of spray came over us, 
covering us with pale phosphoric sparks that spread a dim and 
fearful light for a few inches around. Oh, it was a dreadful night ! 
There was distress and perplexity, the sea and the waves roaring, 
and men's hearts failing them for fear. 

Not one of our company, I will venture to say, had any expecta- 
tion of seeing the light of another day. For myself, I thought 
deliberately of each and every member of our family, and breathed 
a silent farewell to each : of many of my friends by name, of for- 
mer scenes and seasons : of various missionary fields, and offered 
prayers for each and all : of my own past life, and of the certainty, 
for so it then seemed to me, that in a few hours I should enter on 
the untried realities of which I had so often thought. I know not 
that my mind was ever in a calmer state, or that I could more de- 
liberately reflect on what I wished to fix my thoughts upon : and 
though I could not feel those clear convictions of my safety I have 
sometimes felt, yet my faith was fixed on the Rock of Ages, and 
death seemed to have but few terrors for me. In such a night, and 
with such expectations, it was wrong to sleep ; and though be- 
numbed with the rain and cold, and almost exhausted for want of 
rest, I did not close my eyes during the whole time. Many pre- 
cious Scripture truths passed through my mind ; such as — ' : When 
thou passest through the waters I will be with thee, and through the 
rivers, they shall not overflow thee," which I applied to myself in a 
spiritual manner ; for, situated as we were, I could scarcely expect 
to have them literally fulfilled. I know not when I felt more 
strongly the delightful sublimity of the expression, " He holdeth 
the waters in the hollow of his hand," or the feeling of security 
even for the body, which for a moment it gave me. 

As you may suppose, there were few words spoken, and the only 
sound we heard, besides the wind and rain and the roaring sea, 
was that of the boys bailing out the water. Towards two or 
three o'clock in the morning, (by our conjectures, for we had no 
light to see with,) the wind and sea seemed to abate, and finding 
we shipped very little water, we began to hope that our lives might 
yet be spared. The morning slowly dawned, but as it dawned the 
wind and sea increased. As soon as we could see, the foresail was 
hauled in and hoisted to the wind, and the mainsail spread, and 
we commenced again our perilous course. Soon the cry, " Land 
ho !" was raised, and when the morning had fairly dawned, we 



SHIPWRECK OF THE HARMONY. 173 

saw it stretching along right before us, about ten miles off. We 
must have been driven many miles during the night to be so near 
it. Soon our hopes were greatly excited, for the land had the ap- 
pearance precisely of that about the entrance of Manila Bay. 
We could see what we took to be Point Hornos, Mount Mariveles, 
the island Corregidor, and the Lora Mountains ; and we were rilled 
with joy at the prospect of so soon ending our voyage. 

We steered directly for the land, meaning to get behind some 
projecting point, and wait till the sea became calm. Meanwhile, 
however, the wind and sea rose again ; the heavens became black 
behind us, and there was a great rain. To our sorrow, also, we 
found that we had mistaken the land, for none of us had ever seen 
it before. But it was too late to go back, the squall was upon us ; 
and though the rain fell so fast that we could not see more than 
twenty yards, yet on we must go. There was a little island on 
the right, and the captain was on the point of steering the boat so 
as to get round under its lee, when we saw heavy breakers right 
ahead. We turned off to the left, though at an imminent risk, 
for this brought our broadside to the sea, and several light waves 
dashed over us. There were breakers on the left too, but we were 
directed in a channel between them, and rounding a projecting 
point of rocks, we saw a little cove sheltered from the wind, and 
as smooth as an inland lake. Soon our boat touched the bottom, 
only a few yards from the shore. We jumped overboard, secured 
her by ropes to two or three trees, and we were safe ! It was a 
time of joy. With one consent, we gathered together under the 
trees, and offered up our thanksgiving and praises to God, with 
prayers for future assistance and protection. It was a scene wor- 
thy of a painter's skill, — our little boat fastened to the trees, our 
scanty baggage piled upon the shore, and ourselves under the 
custard-apple trees, standing with upturned faces, while the rain 
dropped upon our bare heads, as we lifted up our voices, and I 
trust our hearts also to that God who had held the winds in his 
fist, and the waters in the hollow of his hand, and had brought us 
through dangers which we never expected to survive. It was well 
we came in when we did, for it was then high tide, and a few hours 
later the channel through which we had passed, was itself one 
mass of breakers. Our boat would inevitably have been dashed 
to pieces there, and some, if not all of us, would have perished 
among the waves. 

After all due attention to our boat, and having refreshed our- 
selves with biscuit, raisins, cheese, and plenty of water, (for there 
were several streams only a few yards from our landing-place,) our 
next care was to find where we were. We knew it to be an island, 
for as we came in we had seen land at a great distance eastward, 
which we supposed to be Luconia ; but we were not certain whether 
we were north or south of the entrance of Manila Bay. From a 
little point hard by the landing-place, we saw a telegraph station 
on a hill, and thus concluded that the island was inhabited, and 



174 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

probably by Spaniards. Accordingly, Captain Smith. Mr. G., (who 
spoke both Spanish and English,) and myself, started to discover 
what we might. Chun Sing brought me a cutlass that had been 
saved in the long-boat ; but being a man of peace, I told him to 
take it to the captain, and armed myself simply with a walking- 
stick. Thus accoutred, we set off; but Mr. G., weakened by ex- 
posure and want of food, broke down in less than three hundred 
yards, and declared he could go no further. He went back to the 
company we had left by the boat, and the captain and myself 
went on alone to the telegraph station. We found it deserted. 
Thence we kept on, and soon saw a bullock tied by the nose, a 
pile of boards and some paddy fields ; sure signs that inhabitants 
were near. We were now joined by about a dozen of the sailors, 
two of whom had cutlasses, and the rest walking-sticks, and a 
Portuguese, who had been in the long-boat, and spoke a little 
Spanish and English. Altogether we were a remarkable looking 
company, and being high in spirits from our late wonderful escape, 
we went on right merrily, save that our mirth was often checked 
by allusions to the other boat. We all thought she was lost, judg- 
ing it impossible she could have weathered such a gale, and that 
all on board must have perished. 

Finding a narrow path we followed it over a hill and down a 
little valley, and presently came to a pumpkin field, in which was 
a little native house, and some Indians eating boiled pumpkins. 
They very kindly gave us some, and one of them who spoke 
Spanish told us there was a village about a mile off, where the 
Resguardo, (an officer under the Spaniards,) would receive and 
entertain us. He went along to show the road, and off we went, 
but instead of one mile it must have been three. We crossed hills, 
went through valleys, picked our way among bushes, through 
mud half-knee deep, and along the sea-shore, fording a great 
many small brooks, and being wet several times with rain ; but 
we were used to the rain, and did not regard that. The sand got 
into my shoes, and I had to go barefoot most of the way. We 
passed several natives cutting wood ; met several riding on bul- 
locks, one of whom was so polite as to take off his hat when he 
saw us ; and at length came to the village. It was a collection of 
some twenty or thirty huts by the sea-shore, and all the windows 
and doors of the houses were crowded with women and children, 
who gazed at us as if we had fallen from the skies. 

Our guide led us to the house of the Resguardo, when who 
should come running to meet us but Mr. Fillin (the mate) and 
one of the men who had gone in the jolly-boat. " Oh, captain," 
said the former, "is this you? How many of you are saved?" 
" Thank God, we are all safe, but I thought you were lost ! Are 
you all alive ?" " I've lost four men, sir /" 

They had arrived in sight of land the previous afternoon about 
four o'clock, and when some four miles off, a tremendous sea came 
upon them, turned the boat clear end over end, and threw them 



SHIPWRECK OF THE HARMONY. 175 

all into the sea. Two or three clung to the boat, but were washed 
off by the waves ; another (the best swimmer in the ship) tried to 
swim ashore, but must have been dashed against the rocks and 
carried out by a back current ; while the mate and this other man. 
taking each an oar, had made for the land, and succeeded in get- 
ting ashore, through the surf, though with great difficulty and 
danger. Mr. F. was much bruised and cut about the feet by the 
coral rocks, and for two or three days was scarcely able to move. 
They had spent the night upon the rocks near the place where 
they landed. The next morning they found their boat and the 
oars, but saw no signs of their companions. They then started 
to find a house, and after several hours of very laborious walking, 
arrived at this village, only half an hour before we did, and were 
just telling the people they supposed all the rest of the ship's com- 
pany were lost, when we came in sight. It was a joyful, yet a 
sorrowful meeting. 

The people of the house received us kindly, and gave us hot 
coffee, eggs and sweet cakes, which, in our condition, dripping wet 
and cold, were very acceptable indeed. After coffee they gave us 
cigars. The house was crowded full of people, old and young, 
to gaze at us, and a big Manila bloodhound in the corner gave us 
surly growls by way of music. It was Frida) r , Sept. 30, when 
we landed. We stopped in the village of Loc, island of Luban, 
at the house. of Senor Nicolas Perralta, the chief man of the vil- 
lage, and an Indian, there being no Spaniards on the island. We 
stayed there two days, and were treated with much kindness by 
Sehor Perralta, who gave us his own best room for our lodging. 
It was not furnished with beds, but we slept on the bare and not 
very even floor with much comfort, when we compared it with 
the crowded rough bottom of the long-boat. The inhabitants 
were poor, and we bought our own provisions, which our own 
cook and steward prepared for us. 

But my story is growing too long, and I must draw it to a close. 
We remained in Luban two days ; then hired a potine, or native 
schooner, with "mucho mulos velos !" amazingly torn and rag- 
ged sails, for $100, in which we left Luban on Sabbath morning, 
Oct. 2, for Manila, (according to Manila time, which we then 
used, it was Saturday.) We reached Manila about two o'clock, 
p. m., the next day. The silly captain of the potine had almost 
wrecked us again in a squall off Corregidor at midnight, and had 
it not been for Captain Smith's presence of mind, who sent one of 
his own men to the helm, and took command himself, we should 
certainly have been cast away on the rocks of Point Limbones. 

Mr. and Mrs. Moore and Mr. G. Sturgis were seated at the 
fruit table when I re-entered their house. For a while they could 
scarce believe their eyes, and it was not till I spoke that they could 
believe it was the same person who had left them only two weeks 
before in full hope of a speedy voyage to Singapore. They re- 
ceived me most kindly. Great was the sympathy expressed by 



176 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

all classes in Manila. The news of our shipwreck and wonderful 
escape spread like wildfire, for every one had seen and admired 
the Harmony, and every one knew and liked her captain. I re- 
ceived my full share of sympathy ; but as an offset to this, had 
also the satisfaction of hearing that many of the sailors in the 
harbor attributed the loss of the vessel entirely to her having that 
clergyman on board ! The long-boat was visited and in- 
spected by many in Manila, who could scarce believe it possible 
that twenty-three persons had been stowed away in so small a 
space ; and how we weathered such a gale, which was severely 
felt in the roads at Manila, where many ships had dragged their 
anchors, was a wonder to ail. Captain Cole ; of the Delhi, a large 
American vessel, which had been obliged to lie to in the same 
gale, told me he considered our escape little less than miraculous. 
Indeed the more I have heard of the ravages of that gale, the 
more am I astonished at our escape. During the very time we 
were most exposed to its fury in the long-boat, a Spanish vessel 
was driven ashore on Luconia and lost, and the Conrade, an 
English vessel, was thrown on her beam ends, dismasted and 
finally foundered, while one-half her crew were drowned. 

When I look back and consider how many wonderful circum- 
stances conspired to secure our safety in the midst of most immi- 
nent danger, it is hard to believe that it has been a reality. It 
seems, even now, like some terrible dream from which I have 
hardly yet awaked. 

It was most providential for us that the ship struck by day, and 
not by night ; that her masts did not go overboard when she 
struck, as they certainly would have done, had she not been a 
new and strong vessel ; that we got safely into the boats in the 
dark with that heavy sea running ; that we had provisions enough, 
and sails when our oars were broken ; that we weathered that 
severe gale ; that by daylight we were so near the land ; that we 
escaped the breakers by coming in at high tide ; that we found 
that little sheltered cove ; that we met such kind treatment at 
Luban ; that we arrived safely at Manila, notwithstanding the 
dangers of Corregidor, and that none of us (so far as I know) 
have suffered any serious inconvenience from so much exposure 
to sea, and sun, and wind, and rain. All that I experienced was 
a soreness in my limbs and a slight fever for several hours after 
we landed on Luban. I cut me a walking-stick the day we left 
that island, which has been mounted and sent to my father as a 
memento of that wonderful deliverance, and I am sure that you 
and all our family will join me in the prayer, that the life thus 
spared may be devoted to Him who first gave it to me, and now 
has rescued it from the engulfing sea ; that though I shall not 
attain to the eminence of that Moses who was drawn out of the 
waters, I may yet, in some humble degree, be like him — a leader 
to rescue God's chosen people in China, and lead them like a flock 
in the green pastures of his Holy Word. 



RETURN TO MANILA. 177 

I must not omit to mention two other items of great importance, 
in which the hand of God was manifested for our preservation ; 
the first was that the cord, which, by means of the foresail, held 
the boat's head to the wind, did not chafe or give way, notwith- 
standing the constant strain upon it. We were very apprehensive 
of this, for it was not as thick as a man's thumb, and our lives 
seemed to depend upon that little cord. The second was that the 
heavy gale we had on Thursday and Thursday night was from 
the west. Had it been an easterly gale, like the one we experi 
enced in the same place only nine days before, it would either have 
entirely overwhelmed us, or else have sent us half way to Cochin 
China. Even the heavy rain, uncomfortable as it was, tended to 
our safety, for it kept the sea from raging as it would otherwise 
have done. A heavy rain has something of the effect of oil on 
the waters. It keeps the waves down. 

As so many persons were to go in the long-boat it was impossi- 
ble to save anything, except absolute necessaries and valuables of 
small size. All I saved, therefore, was my watch, my pencil case 
given by Mr. B., what little specie I had in the vessel, ( about $100 
in gold.) the clothes on my back, and a few other articles of dress, 
my Bible, and my cloak. Everything was wet through by the 
rain and salt water, except my Bible, which I had taken the pre- 
caution to envelop in the thick fold of the cloak, and which wa3 
thus only slightly damp. Everything else was abandoned. For- 
tunately I had but a small part of my books with me, perhaps 
one-fifth. Among these were all my Chinese books ; a volume of 
Flavel, which I prize above its weight in gold ; a number of valu- 
able papers, and all my written sermons. With my clothes and 
other articles thus abandoned, were some parcels sent from the 
missionaries in China to their friends in Singapore, Bangkok and 
Malacca. 

Arrived at Manila, it was with some difficulty I could muster a 
suit of clothes to "go ashore." I had my coat and pantaloons, a 
pair of slippers, a shirt without bosom and collar, a pair of woollen 
stockings, and a cap that barely covered my head. I had no vest, 
but that was concealed by buttoning the coat ; collars are not in- 
dispensable, and I borrowed a rusty black cravat from Capt. Smith, 
who happened to have two or three. In such a suit, with my sun- 
burnt face, (from which the skin all peeled off in a few days.) my 
Luban walking-stick, and my cloak on my arm, I set foot in Manila 
again. But I was among kind friends. Mr. and Mrs. Moore sup- 
plied every want. 

I was at some loss, then, what course to take, but finally thought 
it best to return to China. Mr. Elgar, the brother of Mrs. Moore, 
gave me a free passage to Hong Kong, in a vessel of which he was 
part owner, and for that place I embarked October 10th, with seve- 
ral fellow-passengers. When we left Manila, in the Harmony, the 
port-captain, who came off to give the ship her clearance, was very 
merry, and said to me, "Ah, senor padre, vergas cesar senor 



178 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

Moore!" (Ah, sir priest, you only came here to marry Mr. Moore.) 
But when he came to give the Diana her clearance, his manner 
was quite altered, and almost melancholy, as he said, "Ah, sen or 
padre, no otro matrimonio ! no otro matrimonio !" 

We reached Hong Kong safely, though after a rather rough pas- 
sage, on the 17th of October; just four months after I had left 
Macao for Singapore. Through what varied scenes I had passed, 
yet out of them all the Lord delivered me. In the Sea Q,ueen I 
had an opportunity of studying the first part of Acts xxvii. From 
my experience on board the Harmony, I have come to a better 
understanding of the latter part of the same chapter. 

" Oh, that men would praise the Lord for his goodness, and for 
his wonderful works to the children of men. And let them sacri- 
fice the sacrifices of thanksgivings, and declare his works with re- 
joicing. They that go down to the sea in ships, that do business 
in the great waters, these see the works of the Lord, and his won- 
ders in the deep. For he commandeth, and raiseth the stormy 
wind, which lifteth up the waves thereof. They mount up to the 
heavens, they go down again to the depths ; their soul is melted 
because of trouble. They reel to and fro, and stagger like a 
drunken man, and are at their wits' end. Then they cry unto 
the Lord, and he bringeth them out of their distresses. He maketh 
the storm a calm, so that the waves thereof are still. Then they 
are glad, because they be quiet. So he bringeth them to their de- 
sired haven" 

"W. M. Lowrie. 



Hong Kong, November 9th, 1842. 
To the Second Presbytery of New York — 

Fathers and Brethren in the Ministry : It is now just 
one year from the time when I received the solemn rite of ordination 
at your hands. Although nothing was said to me in reference to 
holding a correspondence with you, yet I have thought it would 
be agreeable to you to receive occasional communications from 
me ; and I am sure it will be profitable to myself to receive the 
advice, the warning, and the encouragement, which your let- 
ters to me would contain. Far separated as I now am from the 
kindly influences of a Christian land, and finding but few among 
the few Christians near me, who care particularly for the disci- 
pline of our beloved Church, I shall highly prize, and, I trust, profit 
by, anything that shall remind me of my connection with a branch 
of the Church, whose doctrines I consider as founded on the Scrip- 
tures of truth, and whose form of government I have always pre- 
ferred as being the most scriptural and the most practically useful. 
Surrounded as you are by influences that bear upon this subject, 
you can hardly conceive how necessary it is for us who are sep- 
arated from you in these ends of the earth, to have our minds 
stirred up by way of remembrance, by communications from the 



LETTERS. 179 

ecclesiastical bodies with which we have been connected in our 
native land. 

The members of the Presbytery are probably all aware that my 
departure was delayed much longer than was anticipated after my 
ordination. The time thus spent in the United States was not 
wholly unemployed, as I had several opportunities of preaching- on 
various subjects, and presenting the cause of foreign missions in 
several churches. I left New York in the ship Huntress, January 
19th. The whole number of persons on board the vessel was 
thirty-one ; and to these I had the privilege of preaching once 
every Sabbath on the voyage, with the exception of two days,, 
when ill health and stormy weather prevented. The attention 
manifested was remarkably good almost all the time. After land- 
ing at Macao, May 27th, I preached twice in that place, and once 
in Hong Kong, during the three weeks I then spent in China. 
Following the instructions of the Executive Committee of the 
Board of Foreign Missions, I left Macao June 19th for Singapore, 
and have not, since that time, had more than one opportunity of 
preaching the Gospel. The vessel in which I left Macao was 
manned by persons who did not speak English. After being de- 
tained in her by contrary winds for sixty-five days, we were 
obliged to go into Manila for provisions. I remained in Manila 
about a month, but owing to the jealousy of the Roman Catholic 
priests had no opportunity of preaching there. There has never 
been a Protestant service on the Phillipine Islands. 

The vessel in which I left Manila was shipwrecked, and the 
passengers and crew were obliged to escape in the boats. For 
four days and five nights we were on the deep without shelter, 
and part of the time " we despaired even of life." After several 
very narrow escapes, we arrived safe at land. Nothing but the 
hand of God could have delivered us from the imminent dangers 
to which we were exposed ; and I trust the Presbytery will join 
with me in the prayer that the life thus spared may be more en- 
tirely devoted to the service of God than ever before. I then re- 
turned to this place, where I arrived October 18th, and have since 
that time been busily employed in making arrangements for the 
permanent location of our missions in China. Thus far, however, 
little has been done. The Providence of God has, during the past 
summer, greatly hindered the plans both of myself, and of each of 
my colleagues in the mission, and at times we have felt almost 
discouraged. I trust, however, that matters are now in a fair way 
to be settled, and hope yet to see the Presbyterian Church in 
China joining with sister churches in spreading the pure light 
of the Gospel over this long-benighted empire. But how great is 
the work ! and how few are the laborers ! while the propagators 
of error are many and strong. The country is opening wider and 
wider every day, but (here are few to enter. 

Fathers and brethren, allow me to suggest to you, and through 
you to the churches over which you are placed, a few ideas that 



180 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

have occurred to me while contemplating the field I am sent to cul- 
tivate, and a few facts which have fallen under my own observation. 
Of the importance of speedily communicating to China the 
light of the Gospel, I suppose no doubt can be entertained. This 
is admitted by all, and, for more than thirty years past, efforts have 
been made to accomplish, or at least to commence this work. The 
contest of the Gospel with error, has thus been going on for many 
years, and has been watched with interest by at least a few ; but 
is there not reason to believe, that the Christian church is carry- 
ing on this contest with far less vigor than she ought? Nay may 
.1 not affirm, that instead of coming up to the help of the Lord 
against the mighty, almost the whole Christian church has been 
slumbering in regard to China, and manifesting a most culpable 
inattention to the whole subject? It may assist our views, to con- 
sider for a moment the present state of affairs in China. The 
eyes of all the world are turned to this empire at this moment, 
and the facts that I mention are known to all. There is then, at 
this time, a two-fold contest going on in China. One is conducted 
by the British nation, the other by the Christian world. The ob- 
ject of the former is to open China for commercial purposes, in 
order that a market may be found for manufactures and produc- 
tions, and a mine be opened from which the inhabitants of other 
nations may dig stores of this world's treasures, which all perish in 
the using. The object of the latter is to overthrow the power of 
Satan in this empire, to scatter the beams of Heaven's own light 
on the thick darkness that envelops it, to save the souls of our 
brethren who inhabit these ends of the earth, and to increase the* 
declarative glory of our glorious God and gracious Saviour, by the 
building up of a holy temple to his name, where Satan's seat now 
is. Suppose that in each of these contests the results aimed at 
should be gained, will any one say that the former are of equal 
importance with the latter? Will any one look far down into the 
ages of eternity, and estimating the value of the results as they 
then appear, seriously affirm that the former deserves half the 
labor and sacrifices and expense that the latter does? SureJy not. 
Yet how are these contests carried on ? I wish I could show you 
what I now see before my eyes. The door of the room where I 
am writing commands a full view of the city and harbor of Hong 
Kong. I can point 3 T ou to tens and hundreds of houses, large, 
massive, and expensive, erected more or less directly to further the 
first contest ; but I can point you to only five erected to carry on 
the second, and of those five only two are finished. In the har- 
bor I can point you at this present moment, to no less than four 
ships of the line, several other vessels of war, and nearly fifty 
transport ships, sent at great expense from the other side of the 
world, filled with men and valuable stores, commanded by able 
and experienced officers, to carry on the first contest, and these are 
hardly a moiety of the ships and men and money employed : but 
when you ask. where are the ships and the men employed in the 



LETTERS. 18\ 

second? alas, I can hardly answer you. I take my glass, and 
slowly scanning the large fleet before me, at last point out. to you 
a merchant ship. "In that vessel a solitary missionary went to 
Amoy and Chusan during the last summer, to prepare the way for a 
station at one of these places, but as yet he has not fixed upon any 
spot." By the side of that vessel is another ; " In her, a few 
months since, three missionaries went to Amoy, where they now 
are." By the side of that vessel is another ; " In her one mission- 
ary with his wife, expects before long to proceed to Chusan." 
Are these all? Yes. Out of the hundreds and thousands that 
have left this harbor since May of this year for the northern ports, 
only these five were missionaries ; only these five have gone, or 
are going, as the representatives of the Christian churches in Eng- 
land and America. Lest any one should charge me with conceal- 
ing a part of the truth, I must add that two other missionaries 
were previously stationed, one at Amoy, and one at Chusan. 
These seven are all that are engaged for the northern ports, while 
in Hong Kong and Macao, are in all only nine more. These six- 
teen are all that the whole of the churches of Protestant Christen- 
dom have now employed in China, to carry on the great contest 
between Christ and Satan ; while the English nation alone has 
employed this year, more than fifteen thousand persons to secure 
some few commercial advantages ! Has the Christian church 
done her duty towards China? 

Some men talk of the immense sacrifices of life and money, in 
carrying on the work of missions ! Why, the English government 
has spent more money and lost more men, during this last year of 
her contest with China, than the whole Christian church has done 
in any ten years, in all the heathen world together ! From the 
room where I sit I see the burying-ground, and evening after even- 
ing, as the sun goes down, I hear the solemn martial music, and the 
last salute fired over the new-made grave of one, and another, and 
another, who have died of wounds received, or diseases contracted 
in the civil contest of the past year ; while during that time, but 
one of those engaged in the other contest, has gone to her long 
home. Fathers and brethren, are you prepared to say that while 
so much has been done for purely worldly ends, and so little for 
purely spiritual objects, the church in general, or yourselves in 
particular, have done all that should be done for China? Do you 
still wonder that so little has been done to Christianize the mass 
of this great nation ? and yet I have not told you all that is dis- 
couraging, nor even what is most so. It is sad to see so little good 
done, but still sadder to see so much error propagated. From the 
room where I sit, I can see almost every house in Hong Kong ; 
and what, suppose you, is the most conspicuous object there ? A 
Roman Catholic church and monastery ! These buildings, from 
their commanding position and large size, being the largest in 
Hong Kong, are the first that attract a new-comer's attention ; 
more money has been expended on them during the past twelve 



182 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

months, than on all the buildings of all the Protestant missiona- 
ries in China ! "Would that this were all I had to say, but I have 
more. The Roman Catholic missionaries in China are more than 
ten times as numerous as the Protestants, and they are receiving 
large annual accessions, while with us the number of accessions 
scarcely equals the diminution by death and removals. While a 
single Protestant missionary was struggling to maintain himself 
in Chusan during the last year, nine Roman Catholic priests came 
and settled there at one time ! When I was in Manila, in Sep- 
tember, fifty-two Roman Catholic priests arrived there from Spain 
in a single vessel, some of whom will probably find their way to 
China. There are hundreds, aye, and thousands, of Roman Catho- 
lic priests in the Phillipine islands, who could be transferred to 
China almost at a moment's notice ; but where, where shall we 
look for Protestant missionaries for this great empire? I do feel 
at times discouraged ; my heart does at times sink within me, 
when I look back to my native land, and hear how few are will- 
ing to come out ; how few are earnest in prayer for us ; how few 
act as if they believed the words of our Lord Jesus Christ, " It is 
more blessed to give than to receive." 

Since, then, the work is so great, since the laborers are so few, 
since men of this world are so zealous to secure a little more of 
this world's goods, since the disseminators of error are so numerous 
and so rapidly increasing, I call upon you, my fellow-workers in 
the ministry, and co-presbyters in the Church, to use your influ- 
ence in furtherance of the cause of Christ in China. It is but a 
little time we have to labor, and we have no time for trifling or 
delay. Could you but see the half of what I see every day, — the 
idols under every green tree, and on every high hill ; the incense 
and offerings burnt to the devil ; and the thousand unnamed and 
nameless proofs of the prevalence of mind-debasing and soul-ruin- 
ing idolatry ; you would need no inducement to urge you on to 
greater diligence and exertion. Pardon the freedom that your 
youngest brother thus uses. I am sometimes sad, and my heart 
is sometimes sick within me ; and therefore I thus write. Pray 
for me, teach your people to pray for the heathen, and for your 
brethren that labor among them. I hope to hear from you soon. 
In the meantime, I remain your brother in the Lord, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao. December 9th, 1842. 
My Dear Mother — 

.... I am lonely, and am besides rather perplexed with the af- 
fairs of our mission. However, I do not think it will be so long, 
and besides I trust I have learned to say — 

I sure 
Have had enough of bitter in my cup, 
To show that never was it his design, 



LETTERS. 183 

Who placed me here, that I should live at ease, 

Or drink at pleasure's fountain. Henceforth thei: 

It matters not, if storm or sunshine be 

My future lot ; bitter or sweet ray cup ; 

I only pray, God fit me for my work ! 

God make me holy, and my spirit nerve 

For the stern hour of strife ! Let me but know 

There is an arm unseen that holds me up, 

An eye that kindly watches all my path 

Till I my weary pilgrimage have done. 

December 13th. The Sea Queen has at last arrived at Singa- 
pore after being out forty days from Manila, and in all one hun- 
dred and twenty from China. I am glad she has got there, but 
hope to be excused from ever making a passage in her again. The 
navigation of the China Sea is exceedingly uncertain. A vessel 
which left Macao August 16, arrived in Singapore October 16, 
being sixty days on the way. Another vessel, an American, which 
left Macao October 8, arrived at Singapore October 18, being only 
ten days on the way ! I mean to patronize American vessels 
hereafter. I have been greatly struck with that text, " It is not in 
man that walketh to direct his steps." The reason why I went in 
the Sea Q,ueen rather than in the Oneida was, that it was expected 
that the former would arrive much sooner than the latter. I should 
have got to Singapore and might have come back in the same ves- 
sel to China almost as soon as I did. She left China nearly three 
weeks after the Sea Q,ueen, got to Singapore before we got to 
Manila, stayed there two months, and came back here in November. 
It might have altered the whole course of my future life, had I 
gone in her ; and would probably have saved me an amount of 
suffering, bodily and mental, that few are called to endure in so 
short a time. But what is past cannot be recalled, and though I 
have suffered, I should rather say because I have suffered, I trust 
I am a wiser, and a better, and an humbler Christian than I was ; 
and if I am not happier now, I may be hereafter, on account of 
what has happened. 

The bud may have a bitter taste, 
But sweet will be the flower. 

... I am at present just like a man who has stopped at an inn, 
to wait for letters to direct his future course, and often feel very 
deeply that " I am a stranger in the earth." Of one thing, how- 
ever, I am truly glad, nothing has yet occurred that makes it 
necessary that I should leave China, or that makes it at all proba- 
ble that I shall have to do so ; there is scarcely anything that I 
dread more than the idea of leaving my missionary work. . . . 
I remain affectionately yours, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



184 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

Macao, December 17th, 1842. 
My Dear Father— 

The Bazaar arrived here to-day from Singapore, of which I was 
informed by having a packet of letters sent to me. Opening it, I 
found letters for Mr. Buell, Mr. McBryde, Dr. Hepburn, and, to 
my great satisfaction, two for myself, one of which was from you, 
dated May 12th. I read it very speedily, and could hardly refrain 
from tears as I did so. Had you known precisely my feelings at 
the present time, you could hardly have written anything more 
appropriate than its conclusion. It was written to encourage me 
in trials, and to point me to the sure source of consolation. Trials 
have come upon me within the last twelve months, wave after 
wave, and each one, like Job's messengers, more severe than the 
preceding, and for awhile I thought I could hardly sustain them. 
My leaving home was a trial, but for that 1 was prepared by long 
expectation, and sustained by special communications of grace. 
My delays in the Sea Q,ueen, and the exceedingly unpleasant ac- 
commodations there tried me much more severely ; but it was 
profitable, and taught me many useful lessons, the benefit of which 
I experienced when shipwrecked in the Harmony. Besides these 
outward trials, I have experienced much anxiety in deciding on 
the best course to be pursued in relation to the China mission. 
In these circumstances you can scarcely understand how much I 
was encouraged by that train of thought which connects our tribu- 
lations here, and our poor weak services, with the glory of the Sa- 
viour, and the inconceivable displays of his wisdom, justice, love, 
and mercy, as manifested to the universe on the judgment day ! 

.... The Foreign Missionary pleases me much. I determined, 
soon as I saw it, to write something for its pages, and hope to be 
able to send you some little articles soon. 

As to the brethren who have decided not to come out here with- 
out wives, I suppose the best way is for each one to be well per- 
suaded in his own mind. I have seen enough to make me think 
that most missionaries ought to be married, provided they can get 
suitable wives. If they are not provided in that respect, by the 
time they are ready to leave, and there is a call for their services, 
it might be a question whether they are not called to go out alone. 
As far as I am personally concerned, I am satisfied that the course 
I took was the best, and I should probably act in the same way, 
if in the United States again. . . . 

Affectionately your son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, December 24th, 1842. 
My Dear Mother — 

Yesterday was a happy day for me. You know how I have 
been disappointed hitherto about getting my letters. They had 



LETTERS. 135 

all gone on to Singapore, and when the Bazaar came up, and did 
not bring them, I was afraid that I might have a long time to wait 
yet, before they came to hand. Yesterday morning Mr. Bridge- 
man's servant came over from Hong Kong, and brought me a 
packet that had been sent there by mistake. I opened it, and be- 
hold, one, two, three, four, yes, fourteen letters, from father and 
mother, and John C, and Elizabeth, and John M. I put up my 
Chinese books in all haste, and sent off to tell my teacher he ' : need 
not come to-day," and then — did not I have a feast? You do not 
know what a letter is worth in the United States. When you are 
separated only a few hundred miles, and have regular mails, it is 
nothing very special to have a letter once a month or so. But 
when the sun is shining on you, while your friends are sleeping 
on the other side of the world, ah, that is a different thing. My 
first emotion was one of sincere gratitude for such a favor ; and 
my second, perplexity which to open first ; and you would have 
been amused could you have seen me, while I was reading. Some- 
times I laughed till the tears came into my eyes ; sometimes a 
sentence brought other tears, and yet not tears of sorrow these ; 
and sometimes a sigh escaped me, as I thought of the blasted hopes 
and disappointments implied in some of the various items of news 
that met my eye. I seemed to be among you again, and lived 
over the day of parting, and the few preceding weeks. And yet, 
eleven months and more have passed since then ! and what re- 
markable things have happened in that time ! at least to myself, 
for as far as I can gather, you have had but few important changes 
since I left. 

If you think I am going to be tired of the length and common- 
placeness of your letters, how am I to suppose you will receive my 
voluminous journals and letters? Inasmuch as I have the vanity 
to suppose that the latter will be all read, notwithstanding their 
prodigious length, you need not suppose I shall " skip " any of 
yours. 

.... I am well, and contented, and happy, though still some- 
what lonely, and occasionally perplexed. My future movements 
are still uncertain. 

With much affection, and many fond remembrances, 
I remain truly yours, 

W M. Lowrie. 



Macao, December 27th, 1842. 
James Lenox, Esa. — 

My Dear Sir : — I have lately received, by the Bazaar, a volume 
of the British Reformers, which my father informs me is from 
yourself. The receipt of it gave me much pleasure, not merely 
on account of the intrinsic worth of the book, but principally be- 
cause it assured me I was still kindly remembered in a family, 
with which my intercourse, though short, was very pleasant 



186 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

A missionary to China, I find, has need of a good many qualifi- 
cations ; and at present it seems probable that one qualification of 
which he will find peculiar need, is a thorough acquaintance with 
the writings and spirit of the ancient reformers from Popery. One 
of the very greatest difficulties with which we shall have to con- 
tend, will arise from the opposition of the Roman Catholics. It is 
impossible to say how many native Roman Catholics there are in 
China. Probably the accounts their priests give of their numbers 
are exaggerated ; but it is certain there are many. Their priests, 
too, are far more numerous than the Protestant missionaries ; and 
being all unmarried, and many of them zealous, and active, and 
enterprising, they bid fair to go far ahead of Protestant missions. 
I do not think that their celibacy is any advantage in the long run, 
nor would I wish to see many unmarried Protestant missionaries 
here ; but a few of the right spirit are greatly needed. If we had 
some twenty or thirty single men, of thoroughly cultivated minds, 
and prepared to submit to trials and privations to which a lady 
ought not to be exposed, I should not, humanly speaking, be much 
afraid of the contest with Popery in China. At present, however, 
there is no prospect whatever of such a band coming out to join 
us ; and the few who are here are scarcely able, — indeed we are 
not able, — to occupy the ports already thrown open, but must 
stand still and see the Popish priests go, not two and two, but by 
sixes and tens, and establish themselves in every place where a 
foothold can be gained. Already they have erected a bishoprick 
at Shanghai, though I have not heard that a single Protestant 
missionary is going there. I do not think that many of the priests 
in China, or in that swarming Romish hive, Luconia, are men of 
much ability, or of extensive acquirements. Some of them, how- 
ever, are ; and they will easily make up in numbers what they 
lack in mental culture, while the perfect subordination of their 
system gives them advantages which we look at, but cannot hope 
to equal. There is, indeed, scarcely anything in reference to 
China that gives me so many distressing apprehensions as the 
activity of the Romish priests, contrasted as it is with the apathy 
of Protestant churches in England and America. England has 
only three, and America only thirteen missionaries actually in 
China ; and if the whole number laboring for China were col- 
lected, they would not amount to thirty, of whom not more than 
one-half are qualified by acquaintance with the language for effi- 
cient labor. It is true that the God we serve is able abundantly 
to produce the greatest effects by the fewest and simplest means, 
but the time does not seem yet to have come when a nation shall 
be born in a day ; and till that time comes, perhaps I should say, 
in order that it may come, we must use means in some degree 
proportioned to the results we hope for. But I have filled up my 
sheet with what, perhaps, will not be very interesting to you. I 
had no intention of writing at all on this subject when I took up 
my pen, but the mention of the British Reformers led my mind to 



LETTERS 187 

a subject that often has a painful interest to me. I cannot see 
through it, but I feel that we who labor in China will have great 
need of the " faith and patience of the saints" of olden times, if 
we expect to maintain our standing here against the last efforts 
and long-protracted dying agonies, for such I believe they will be, 
of the man of sin. 

I often think of you, and of the pleasant Sabbath I spent at 
New Hamburgh. It would give me great pleasure to hear from 
you at any time ; a letter, in these ends of the earth, is an object 
of great value. . . . 

I am, with much respect and esteem, truly yours, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, December 29th, 1842. 
My Dear Father — 

Since my letter of December 17, sent by the Delhi, T have re- 
ceived yours of February 22 and March 12, May 3, and June 4, 
for all of which I am under very great obligations to yon. It is a 
little remarkable, that though you have probably less time for 
writing than any of the famiby, yet you have written more than 
all the rest of them put together, and given me more news. Many 
particulars in your letters have interested me very deeply, particu- 
larly those concerning the funds, and your efforts to increase them, 
and your accounts of Princeton students, and the prospect of more 
missionaries. As to the former subject, I fear it will be many years 
before the Church comes up even in a moderate degree to her duty. 
Indeed, I have long thought, that the present generation of Chris- 
tians will never do all that may be expected. As long as a Chris- 
tian man is allowed to give five dollars for his annual subscription 
to the missionary work, and the next day buy fifty dollars worth 
of tulips, and yet retain his standing in the church, I have little 
hopes of seeing the right spirit prevail. I have thought, therefore, 
for years, that our hopes are in the Sabbath schools. None are so 
easily interested in missions as children, and none may be so easily 
trained to proper principles as they. I have sent by the Akbar 
four letters to Sabbath-school children. They are just such as I 
used to speak to the children of my Sabbath-schools, and nothing 
that ever I said interested them so much. They are intended for 
the Foreign Missionary, and I shall probably send some more soon. 
If they are judged suitable, I can furnish a good number of them 
gradually. Of course originality is not the main thing in such 
articles, although I know that to four-fifths of the Sunday-school 
children, in our churches, even to those at your very doors, the 
<acts I have stated, and may yet state, will possess all the fresh- 
ness of some new discovery. I have seen a whole school staring 
with eyes and mouth both, at the narration of the commonest 
facts in regard to the heathen ; and it is mainly for want of early 
instruction and training in regard to the facts and principles of 



188 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

missions, that you find it so difficult to bring the churches to give 
freely of their substance to further them. This opinion is formed 
on a more thorough knowledge of the real state of the case, than 
is generally possessed. I hope to send soon some thoughts on this 
subject, founded mainly on facts that I have seen, and inferences 
that seem to me to be justly drawn from them. 

In regard to the students at the Seminary, I am greatly pleased 
to hear that so much of the proper spirit prevails among them. 
Nothing further occurs to me in reference to the propriety of men 
waiting for wives, when they are in other respects ready to start, 
in addition to what I have said before. I should be sorry to do k, 

but let every man be well persuaded in his own mind I 

am very anxious to have and here. I knew them both, 

particularly the former, in College, and know of none at present in 
the Seminary, so well qualified for this field. After we are fairly 
established here, we can find work and places for a good deal of 
variety in the character of our missionaries. At present, however, 
we are very much in need of some six or eight of the " first chop ;" 
as a Chinaman would say, " No. 1, good ;" and until we are estab- 
lished, others would be rather in the way. 

.... I propose to study Chinese pretty diligently for the next 
three months ; by that time I hope to hear from you, and to know 
definitely who is coming, if anybody, and when. After that I may 
have to go to Hong Kong, as all the missionaries will probably 
leave this place in March. 

With much love for yourself and all the family, 

I remain j r our affectionate son, W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, December 29th, 1842. 
Mr. John Lloyd — 

My Dear John : — Though I have several friends, who, if they 
knew I were writing to you, might think they had a prior claim 
to yours just now, yet the associations and recollections of this 
day lead my mind most strongly to yourself; and though I have 
written one letter of some length to you since I came out, yet I 
feel as if I wanted to send another. . . . 

This day is the anniversary of my spiritual birth ; eight years 
ago to-day ! What would I not have given eight years ago, to 
have been assured that I should persevere thus long in the Chris- 
tian course ? If any one had shown me all the temptations and 
trials I was to experience in that time, and then assured me that I 
should survive them all, and be the better for them, I could scarcely 
have believed him. Yet it has been so, and having obtained help 
of God, I continue to this day, and humbly hope, that through 
him I shall persevere even to the end. I trust he has taught me 
to look upward both for strength and for happiness, and more so 
lately than ever before. My soul doth, therefore, magnify the 
Lord. 



LETTERS. 1S9 

I spent the greater part of this afternoon in reading over your 
letters. I wish I had yourself here to talk to, for I sometimes feel 
a little lonely ; especially as both my colleagues are at present at 
other stations, and it will be some little time before Ave can get 
together. 

So many things crowd upon me, that I hardly know what to 
write about. I could easily tell you a long story of adventures 
and perils, and strange sights and scenes, and wonderful deliver- 
ances, but I have not time for that, and you will probably see 
some of them in the Chronicle. Many of them I must reserve for 
your private ear, " when we meet in Pekin, China," as you said 
in one of the letters I read this afternoon. I am now de- 
voting some five or six hours daily to Chinese ; and though as 
yet I have made little progress, (it is only a month since I com- 
menced it regularly,) yet I feel somewhat encouraged. It will be 
long, however, I fear, before I can speak it at all ; and I fear that 
at best, I shall have to speak " with stammering lips and another 
tongue, to this people.-' Owing to uncertainty as to my future 
location, I have thought it best to commence the Court dialect, 
(commonly called the Mandarin,) which is not spoken, except by 
the literati and public officers. My progress will, on this account, 
be slower at first, but I think more rapid, steady, and successful in 
the end. 

I know you are anxious to know how I feel about matters and 
things in general, and though it is yet too soon to speak definitely, 
yet to you I can speak freely ; for you will know how to account 
for it, if I should afterwards change my opinions. So far, my fears 
have been mostly disappointed, and my expectations more than 
realized. I think that for two or three years before leaving the 
United States, I had as little romance in regard to missions, as 
any one could have, who had never been actually on heathen 
ground. Consequently I have not been disappointed Parting with 
friends was a sore trial, but I had so long expected it, and prayed 
for sustaining grace, that I found it far less difficult to bear than 
I had anticipated. It was a great relief to me that it was quickly 
over. The ship left the wharf at half-past twelve, and I was truly 
glad that none of my friends came with me to the Hook. I have 
at present no wish to return. Since I landed in China I have, as 
you are aware, had a pretty full share of trials. Now no chas- 
tisement for the present is joyous but grievous. So I found them. 
Nevertheless, although the remembrance of them is yet fresh, and 
the unpleasant effects of them still continue to a degree, yet from 
what I have already felt, I am fully assured that " afterwards they 
shall yield to me the peaceable fruits of righteousness." In gen- 
eral the year, (it is nearly a year,) which has past since I left New 
York, has been one of the happiest I have ever spent ; and I now 
look back on it with as much satisfaction as any other equal por- 
tion of my life, perhaps I should say with more satisfaction. I 
".ame out almost unwillingly. I felt loath to leave a field I had 



190 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

long desired to occupy : I have not found everything here arranged 
as I desired, nor have I been able to accomplish all that I wished. 
1 have been in unpleasant society : I have suffered in body : I 
have hung in the jaws of death for hours together, not expecting 
to live from one moment to another : I have been obliged to wait 
for months and months for letters from home, and I am now in a 
station where I have no colleagues in the same mission, and do 
not expect to have for some months ; and yet with all these ad- 
verse circumstances, I am glad I came, and pray that I may be 
suffered to remain. The work is great ; there is plenty of it. A 
wide and effectual door is opened, there are few to enter, while 
the enemy is very busy sowing tares. I do not think there is that 
promise of immediate usefulness here that there is in many other 
places. I hardly hope to see such churches formed here soon as 
have been formed in Africa, and in India, and in the islands of the 
sea. Indeed, I may never have the privilege of seeing any Christian 
church formed here ; yet, notwithstanding all this, I think the 
prospect of usefulness is very great indeed ; and for men of the 
right spirit and qualifications, who are willing to wait for the fruit 
of their labors till they enter heaven, if it be their Master's will 
that they wait thus long, I know of few fields so inviting. At 
present, I think the great difficulty is the language ; but every year 
this difficulty is becoming less, as new facilities in the way of books 
for its acquisition are being prepared, and places are opened where 
free intercourse with persons who speak it in its purity is allowed. 
In a few years I think it will not be considered a very difficult 
task for persons of good common sense, perseverance, and ordinary 
abilities to acquire it. At present, however, let nobody who can- 
not study Latin and Greek, and who is subject to the dyspepsia, 
come out to China. They had better go elsewhere. Such being 
my views, dear brother, I have some commands to lay upon you, — 
the first and chief of which is, get ready to come out here as quick 
as you can. I am going to write to father, and tell him to catch 
you by the back of the neck and put you down in the hold of one 
of Mr. Olyphant's ships, if you ever talk of going to any other part 
of the world. I'll take charge of you out here. Seriously, though, 

I want you and to come out to China ; and if either of 

you do not come, I shall expect a very satisfactory and length- 
ened communication from you, showing good reasons for not 
doing it. I speak of you two in particular, because I think 
3^011 as well qualified as any of the missionary students I know 
in the Seminary, for this field. The second command is, to 
pay considerable attention to the Roman Catholic controversy ; 
you may find need for it here. Thirdly, in regard to wives ; if 
you can get good ones, get them by all means ; but I beg you not 
to delay coming for want of them. Shall the heathen perish, and 
your period of active labor, short at best, be rendered still shorter, 
because you cannot come alone to labor, where merchants spend 
their ten, twenty, and thirty years in celibacy, for the sake of 



LETTERS. 191 

gain? . . . Spend your vacations in looking for wives, (Dr. 's 

advice to the contrary, notwithstanding.) but do not keep the ship 
in waiting. I do not know how I shall get along without one. 
There is at present no prospect of ray getting one, but I am not 
sorry that I took the course I did in this matter. My opinions 
may change hereafter ; when they do, perhaps I'll tell you. 

I could write much more — indeed, I feel loath to stop, but I 
must write another letter or two to-night, as the vessel goes soon. 
Dear brother, how often I think of you, and long to see you ! 
The memory of joys that are past is sweet to my soul. 

That the richest of heaven's blessings may ever rest upon you 
is the prayer of 

Your brother in Christ, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



CHAPTER V 

1843. 

RESIDENCE IN MACAO — VOYAGE UP THE COAST — DESCRIPTION OF AMOY AND 
CHANG CHOW — RETURN TO MACAO. 

In the early part of the year, Mr. McBryde and his wife were 
obliged to leave China on account of the failure of his health ; 
and in the summer, Dr. Hepburn and his family arrived at Macao, 
from Singapore. Mr. Lowrie spent his time chiefly at Macao, 
engaged in the study of the Chinese language, and preaching on 
the Sabbath to the American and European residents of that 
place. In August he commenced a voyage to the north, with the 
intention of visiting all the newly-opened cities, to make inquiries 
as to their relative advantages for missionary labor. His descrip- 
tion of Amoy and Chang Chow, will be found in the following 
journals. Proceeding from Amoy to the north, owing to contrary 
winds, the voyage was slow, and they were several times driven 
to seek for shelter on the coast, by stress of weather. After al- 
most reaching Chusan, the vessel was driven back by the north- 
east monsoon, and the voyage was then relinquished. 

In the mean time the Executive Committee had decided to oc- 
cupy three stations in China, — one in the Canton province, one 
at Amoy, and the other at Ningpo or Shanghai, as might be 
found most eligible. Dr. Hepburn was assigned to Amoy, and 
after being once driven back by a severe gale, he reached his 
field of labor in October. 

During his residence at Macao, the correspondence of Mr. 
Lowrie with the Executive Committee at home was very full, and 
contained much information of great service to them in deciding 
on the various questions relating to the missionary work in this 
great field of labor. Active preparations were made by them 
during this year to send out a large missionary force, which will 
be noticed in the proper place. 

At the close of this chapter will be found a proclamation of 



LETTERS. 193 

Sir Henry Pottinger, "Her Britannic Majesty T s plenipotentiary, 
(Sec. &.c," censuring the visit of Messrs. Abeel and Lowrie to the 
city of Chang Chow. This proclamation, and the letter to the 
Chinese authorities, are extraordinary papers, in more respects 
than one. They were uncalled for, — no complaint had been 
made, and Sir Henry himself became the informer. They were 
insulting and arrogant, for he censures American citizens, who 
were in no respect amenable to him, or subject to his jurisdiction. 
They were based on a false assumption, for the supplementary 
treaty had not then been published, and no law or regulation had 
been infringed. The inference that they passed themselves for 
Englishmen was equally gratuitous, and was contradicted in the 
very account that drew forth his impotent rebuke. There is some- 
thing ludicrous, moreover, in the charge that two unarmed and 
peaceable men had forced their way among fifty thousand men, 
and there bearded their highest officers. Mr. Abeel was absent, 
and the duty devolved on his associate in the alleged trespass, 
to assert their rights as American citizens, and to decline the ju- 
risdiction so arrogantly assumed. Had he used much stronger 
language, few of his countrymen would have been displeased. 



Macao, January 27th, 1843. 
Rev. John M. Lowrie — 

My Dear Cousin : — The greatest difficulty now is with the 

language I am by no means discouraged, and, if my life is 

spared, hope that I shall yet be permitted to do something in this 
great field. But alas for these millions that are going down to 
death! Who shall break unto them the bread of life? There 
are only sixteen Protestant missionaries actually in China, and 
the half of these know too little of the language to be as yet of 
any direct service. Like the two loaves and the little fishes, what 
are these among so many ? Oh for the presence and blessing of 
that Saviour who can multiply the bread of life, thus spread be- 
fore the multitude, till they shall all eat and be filled ! 

It requires a great deal of faith and grace to be a missionary. 
Here I am away from Christian privileges, and precluded, in great 
measure, except by writing, from opportunities of direct usefulness ; 
removed from the kindly influences of Christian public opinion ; 
surrounded by everything that is calculated to deaden the Chris- 
tian graces ; and engaged in a study in itself exceedingly dry, and 
which, in addition, promises to keep me for several years before I 
can call myself a proficient. I know not how I shall bear up 
against these adverse influences. Hitherto the Lord has sustained 
me, and I know that his grace is still more than sufficient. Thus 



194 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

far I have enjoyed great peace of mind and satisfaction in my 
course. The only thing I have to complain of, is my want of 
more love to God, and zeal in his service. Oh, it is a sad thing 
to see these poor heathen blindly going on in their errors, and yet 
not be able to say a word to warn them of their danger. This is 
especially sorrowful, because this sense of inability is apt to make 
one careless. It is a temptation that comes with strong force at 
times, "Since you can do nothing, why trouble yourself about their 
condition ? Why should you feel sad, when your sadness will not 
help them ?" Yet it is not so ; because, if the heart is affected for 
them, it will prompt to greater diligence in laboring and praying 
for them. 

The thirtieth of this month is the Chinese new year — a time of 
great festivity and rejoicing, of firing of crackers and offering of 
incense, of sending presents and displaying finery ; and the people 
around seem to be making great preparations. Nearly all the 
shops are gaudy with tinsel and pictures, and gaily painted lan- 
terns, and toys of various kinds, though there is not nearly so 
much show and display here as in Canton. 

My impressions of China, as a field of labor, have been much 
improved since I came out here ; and after we once get free access 
to the people, I do not think the language will be found to be a 
very formidable obstacle. It will always be difficult, perhaps more 
so than any other spoken language ; but I am inclined to think 
its difficulties have been greatly overrated. The tones, which are 
now so formidable, will, I think, be found to present but few diffi- 
culties, when the restrictions to free intercourse with the people, 
which have hitherto been so great, are removed. But prayer and 
patience, as Elliot says, will accomplish all that is needed, though 
in each of these I am but too deficient. 

You will see from this letter, how much my thoughts are run- 
ning upon one subject. Indeed, I do little else but think about 
the language, to which I give the best part of each day. I com- 
monly commence about nine o'clock, and study as constantly as I 
can till four, p. m. ; though there is always an hour or two of in- 
terruptions. I do not think it wise to give more time than this, 
though I often feel as if I should like to live in Chinese. Pray for 
ane ; I am in great need of help from above. 

With best wishes, I remain, 

Your affectionate cousin, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, February 3d, 1843. 
My Dear Mother — 

Why does not the Morrison come in 1 We have heard three 
weeks ago by overland mail, that she was to leave September 17. 
If so, she ought to have been here ten days ago. I have gone up 
to the upper terrace in our garden every day, and looked out to 



LETTERS. 195 

see if any ship was coming- in ; but not one. She ought to bring 
three months' later news, and letters in any quantity. 

I often wonder what sort of letters I shall get, when the news 
of my disasters shall have reached you. For a while my letters 
went like Job's messengers, each one worse than the one before. 
Whether the worst has come yet, I do not know. Generally I am 
quite cheerful, and the little folks take great liberties with me, to 
my great " contentation." But sometimes I am melancholy, often 
sad, and occasionally an undefined anxiety clouds my mind. 
Who knoweth what a day may bring forth ? After what I have 
already experienced, how can I tell whence the next storm shall 
arise ? But the " Lord reigneth. Let the earth rejoice." Here- 
after Ave shall see perfectly 

Truly yours, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, February 24th, 1843. 
My Dear Mother — 

.... I have just heard that Mr. Canfield [of the African mis- 
sion,] is dead. This was unexpected and most distressing news, 
though I never thought that either he or Mr. Alward would endure 
that climate as well as I probably would have done. If the hand 
of God's providence, had not so remarkably brought me here in 
spite of myself; and preserved me through dangers, when time 
and again it seemed as though I should be overwhelmed in the 
waves, I should almost wish that I had gone to Africa. The 
curse seems still to rest on Africa. Ethiopia stretches out her 
hand, but her teachers are removed far off. She still sits in dark- 
ness. Oh that light may speedily arise upon her ! At times I 
can hardly help wishing myself there, if it were only to escape the 
drudgery of this terrible language. Yet I do not see much reason 
for discouragement so far ; counting up the other day, I found my- 
self master of more than six hundred characters, which, for only 
three months' uninterrupted attention, is pretty good progress; 
better than I expected. By the time the Chinese tailor " rubs a 
crowbar down to a needle," I hope to understand the language 
pretty well. But when will that be? 

February 25th. Saturday night ! How many, many thoughts 
of former days and former joys crowd around me, as I lay by my 
books and papers, to prepare for the coming Sabbath ! How the 
time rolls on ! It seems but a day since the ship left the wharf, 
in my own native land ; yet more than a year has flown away, 
and I have passed through scenes that make me feel as if many 
years had been crowded into one. I have seen joy and sorrow 
since that time. I have felt my heart uplifted as on eagles' wings, 
and again it has sunk to the earth. I have looked upon the ocean 
when calm as a sleeping infant's slumbers. I have laid my hand 
upon its foam-crested waves, and felt that a half-inch plank and 



196 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

a slender cord alone preserved me from going down like lead in 
the mighty waters. I have seen plan after plan fail, and hope 
after hope disappointed. I have stood a solitary stranger amidst 
thousands who spoke a different language, without being able to 
utter a word that they could understand. Again and again have 
I been taught to say, " I am a stranger in the earth." Yet, with- 
al, light has arisen to me in darkness, joy has come to me in sor- 
row, and hope has sprung up after disappointments ; for " tribula- 
tion worketh patience, and patience experience, and experience 
hope, and hope maketh not ashamed." The love of God is shed 
abroad upon me, by the Holy Ghost, and the grace of Christ is 
sufficient for me. Would I go back? no! Do I regret that I 
came 1 no ! Lonely I am at times ; sorrowful often ; perplexed, 
but not in despair ; cast down, but not destroyed. The past is 
gone, but its pleasant remembrances and painful lessons remain ; 
and deeply as some of them have been felt, already I can say, 

" The sunshine to the flower may give 

The tints that charm the sight, 
But scentless would that flow'ret live 

If skies were always bright. 
Dark clouds and showers its scent bestow, 
And purest joy is born of woe." 

The future is still future, long or short, happy or mournful, " all 
to me unknown ;" but I know Avhat is far better, " The Lord 
reigneth, let the earth rejoice." . . . 

Yours affectionately, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, April 9th, 1843. 
My Dear Mother — 

.... Saturda}^ night again ! more than one-fourth of this year 
is already gone. It sometimes seems to me that I shall welcome 
with joy, the time when the shadows shall stretch out and the 
evening draw near. Yet how soon it may come ! Three weeks 
ago, Mrs. Dean had as good prospects of long life as any of us ; 
but the grass is already growing over her grave, and her labors 
and toils are over forever. She is in the haven, while her fellow- 
voyagers are still buffeting with the stormy sea. She is singing 
before the throne, while we hang our harps upon the willows and 
weep. Farewell. ^ 

Affectionately yours, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, May 14th, 1843. 
My Dear Mother — 

... It is Sabbath night, and though I do not often write letters 
on this day, yet occasionally I feel it a privilege to spend a part of 



LETTERS. 197 

this day in epistolary correspondence of a particular kind. I do 
not do it for the sake of saving time, but on the same principle 
that would induce me, if in America, to diversify the exercises of 
the day by Christian conversation with those around me. Before 
breakfast this morning, a Chinaman came to my door with a 
couple of letters, sent to me from Hong Kong. They were from 
father, dated Aug. 30th and December 13th, 1842, both overland, 
but delayed a good deal in arriving. After breakfast, I spent some 
time in preparing for preaching. I preach now every Sabbath in 
the chapel here, being the only clergyman in Macao except Mr. 
McBryde, who is not able to preach. Just as I was about to go to 
the chapel, a bundle of letters and papers from the " Paul Jones," 
came in. I had a week ago received half a dozen letters, and 
supposed there were no more ; these had gone to Canton by mis- 
take, and now were returned. It was quite a temptation, but I 
left them unopened till I returned from church, and then found 
one from brother John, one from father, and one from yourself, 
dated December 28th and 30th. Dear mother, I cannot express 
my thanks to you sufficiently for that letter. You seemed to fear 
that it would afford me little gratification, but it has been the most 
interesting letter I have yet received from you. I like " news" 
very well, but I like kind words and warm expressions of affection 
a great deal better, when I know that they come unstudied from 
the heart. I cannot describe to you how much I value such a sen- 
tence as "It is past nine o'clock and all are waiting for me for 
prayers, where we always remember ' him in a foreign land.' " It 
brought the warm tears to my eyes, (I can hardly see now.) pic- 
tured before me — oh, how distinctly ! the scenes of other days, 
when I too knelt with you. and when my voice was heard among 
you. I could see again the quiet room with its cheerful fire, and 
the table with its well-remembered cover and lamp, and the family 
Bible with its broken binding, and each familiar face, aye, and the 
accustomed seat in which each one sat. I could hear the voice 
that read ; I almost fancied I could join in the familiar tune that 
was sung — and so I can, though separated from you by half the 
circumference of the world. The praises we sing, though sung on 
opposite sides of the globe, ascend to the same gracious God* and 
the prayers we offer reach the same mercy-seat, and the same 
grace that sustains you is sufficient, more than sufficient, for me. 
Tell Mrs. C. if you see her, that it has greatly cheered me to hear 
that her prayers have been offered for me, for I have learned to 
place a high value on the prayers of others, however unknown 
they may be to the world. How do we know but that in the 
world to come, we shall find much of our usefulness attributable 
to the prayers of those who remembered us, when we knew not 
that they ever thought of us. 

"Little Sam is gone, and you are gone, and soon it will be said, 
they are all gone ;" and if sooti, why regret that one has finished 
his journey a few hours sooner than the rest, and another gone by 



198 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

a different route? Are we not strangers here, and do not stran- 
gers sojourn but a short time in the land of their pilgrimage, and 
are not pleasant companions often obliged in their voyages to pur- 
sue different roads 1 When the journey is over, we will recount 
our toils, and how we have been led by ways we knew not. Oh, 
how true is that ! I have been led like a blind man, by a way I 
knew not, but already, if I am not mistaken, I see it was the best 
way. 

My journal has afforded you pleasure, more than I thought it 
would; but in heaven we shall need no journals, and shall then 
rightly estimate the importance of every step we took. We shall 
then see through what dangers we have passed, when we least 
suspected they were so near ; we shall see how an angel was sent 
in this place to sustain us, and in that an evil spirit driven away. 
We shall see how influences that we did not dream of were direct- 
ing our course, and as we contemplate the wonderful network of 
our history, we shall more and more admire the wisdom and good- 
ness of Him by whom our bodies were so " curiously wrought," 
and our actions so carefully ordered. We shall be at home then, 
and shall "go no more out." 

How pleasant is the Sabbath ! It comes to me in this heathen 
land, to tell me that even here God is gracious ; but there where 
one unending Sabbath prevails, there shall be no painful sights 
of unhallowed desecration, no strivings with inbred sin, no weari- 
ness ; we shall go no more out, nor wish to go, for there is fulness 
of joy in the presence of God, and at his right hand are pleasures 
for evermore. I sometimes feel as if I did not want to live any 
longer; surely " I would not live always ;" but when I look round 
and see these poor heathen, I think that perhaps I may do some- 
thing. I am willing to stay, and when I think of Him who hath 
done so much for me, I am dumb. Here am I, Lord ; do with me 
as thou wilt. 

But I must close for the present. 

Affectionately yours, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, May 17th, 1843. 
Mr. John Lloyd — 

My Dear John : — Your long, long expected letter reached me 
eight or nine days ago. I was very glad indeed to hear from you, 
for I had not expected to be sixteen months without a letter from 
my old crony. But no matter, I'll pay you for it when you come 
out here. I shall expect to see you in China before the end of 
next year, without fail. The various items of your letter were 
very satisfactory to me, as they recalled many old associations. 
I proceed to answer some inquiries you have made. ... As to the 
Chinese climate, I have not as yet sufficient experience to speak 
fully about it. I have been nearly a year here, and during that 



LETTERS. 199 

time have not had one day's sickness, and have taken only one 
dose of medicine. I think it probable, however, that new comers 
will be liable to fever and ague in most of the new ports, until 
they become acclimated. The heat of summer is great ; the ther- 
mometer now ranges above 80° ; but it is not as bad as that of 
India, and we have cool and bracing winters. There is not com- 
monly any frost or snow in this latitude, or at Amoy, but ice and 
snow are both found at Chusan, Ningpo, and Shanghae, where I 
think we shall have our principal stations. 

As to the language, I suppose it pretty certain that the Chinese 
is the hardest language in the world, except the Japanese ; which 
is harder, because one must learn Chinese in order to learn Japan- 
ese. But then a good many considerations remove the terror that 
some of the Singapore missionaries were so anxious to excite on 
this subject. 1. The language has been learned, and spoken 
fluently and intelligibly, though not of course perfectly, by a num- 
ber of persons within the last forty years ; and I have yet to learn 
that any one of those persons possessed any remarkable talent for 
learning languages. My impression is, that not one of them pos- 
sessed such a talent to any great degree. 2. The facilities for 
learning the language, in the way of elementary books and free 
access to the people, are vastly better than they were twenty years 
ago ; and every year they are getting better. 3. The dialects 
spoken in the north, are said to be easier, decidedly, than those 
spoken in Canton and Fokeen provinces ; and it has been with 
the dialects of the two latter, that foreigners have been most con- 
versant. Several of those who have learned Chinese, were over 
thirty years of age before they commenced it; two, I believe, were 
over forty ; yet they are making progress. I have not made any 
" considerable attainments" yet. Owing to my various wanderings, 
of which you have heard somewhat, it was six months after I got 
here, before I began to study regularly. I have now been study- 
ing regularly for about six months. I can read easy sentences ; 
can talk a very little with my teacher ; and I look forward with 
hope to the future. Yesterday I told my teacher that the Chinese 
was a hard language to learn, and I feared it would take me four 
or five years to talk it well. He said, no, it was not hard ; and 
that in one year I should be able to converse satisfactorily. I told 
him he was nattering me ; but he said, " No, I am a very old man, 
why should I flatter you?" So I said no more. I only believe the 
half of what be says ; but even that is better than I expected. At 
first the study was prodigiously dry — worse than anything I ever 
undertook ; but now I begin to feel a good deal of interest in it. 
Come out and study with me, and I can give you a good deal of 
assistance. I am obliged to study with almost no assistance from 
others, as the Pekin dialect, to which my attention is now directed, 
is not attended to by any of the missionaries whom I have access 
to. With your talents, I know you need not be afraid to com- 
mence the language. Tell Hugh Brown I expect him to come 



200 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

here also ; and I wish you would turn the attention of Br. Cul- 
bertson to this field. A person, however, who does not make 
pretty reasonable progress in Latin, Greek, and Hebrew, had bet- 
ter not come to China for the present. The case may be different 
a few years hence, when a greater variety of missionary labor can 
be employed than is at present practicable. 

I am serious when I say that I wish you and Brown and Cul- 
bertson to regard this letter as a direct call to each of you to take 
China into careful consideration before you conclude to go else- 
where ; and I trust you will be well satisfied that it is your duty 
to do so, if you decline coming here. I would not speak so deci- 
dedly if I did not think I had grounds for my opinion ; but know- 
ing you three, and this field as well as I do, I think it has very 
strong claims upon you. 

I recommend you to learn the radicals immediately, so as to be 
able to write the whole of them off, and give the name and mean- 
ing of each, without once looking on the book. You will find it 
of incalculable advantage. I speak from experience. I also ad- 
vise that by all means you learn to speak in the way that 

recommends, i. e., by using the abdominal and intercostal muscles. 
I am convinced that if you do so, it will facilitate your progress in 
the most difficult part of the spoken language, the tones. The 
reason why we find it so hard to use the Chinese tones easily, is 
because of our habit of using the lungs instead of the abdominal 
and intercostal muscles. I wish I had known this in America. 
The time you spend in learning this will be by no means lost, 
while, if you neglect it, I fear you will always regret it. 

But it is past ten o'clock, and I must close for the night. Would 
that I could see you. Pray for me ; but I know you do so, and I 
thank you for it. It does not surprise me to hear that I have 
fallen into the general mass, and only come in under the general 
prayer of '• ■ Lord bless the missionary." It was to be expected. 
But there are a few who, I trust, will not so soon forget me. The 
Lord ever be with you, and keep you, is the prayer of your 
friend and brother in Christ, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, May 27th, 1843. 
My Dear Mother — 

One year ago to-day I landed in Macao. How it has flown 
away ! It seems but as yesterday when I left the ship, feeling 
that I was a stranger going into a strange place, and my heart 
almost sunk within me at the prospect before me. It seems but 
as yesterday when I found myself suddenly among friends who 
had been anxiously expecting me. The long and tedious voyage 
in the Sea Q,ueen is like a dream of the night that quickly passed 
away ; the sojourn in Manila like a tale that is told ; the re- 
membrance of the shipwreck in the Harmony, and the storm in 



LETTERS. 201 

the long-boat, returns only to call forth feelings of gratitude. I 
thought after that, that my mountain would stand strong ; but it 
was not so. I thought I might hope for many years of pleasant 
intercourse with a colleague in the mission, but in a few days he 
will have left the country. How rapidly have the last five months 
passed away ! If the time to come flies as rapidly, I shall not 
soon think myself an exile. But I do not feel like one, for things 
around begin to wear a familiar face, and though they may never 
excite all the emotions that some remembered scenes do, yet here 
would I live. 

I have felt a great deal more of satisfaction since receiving an- 
swers to my letters from China. It seems now as if a real corres- 
pondence had commenced, and helps me to judge better how the 
time passes. It gave me quite a new idea to think that I had re- 
ceived letters dated three months after my shipwreck. 

Ever truly yours, W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, June 30th, 1843. 
My Dear Father — 

The treaty between England and China was formally ratified 
on Monday of this week (23d) at Hong Koug. A great deal of 
hilarity and good feeling was said to prevail ; and the English 
officers predict, with the utmost confidence, the permanence of the 
friendship thus commenced. It is our prayer that it may be so ; 
but I have judged incorrectly of the Chinese character if they do 
not now feel very sore on the subject. You will, of course, hear 
the most contradictory reports on this subject. It is one on which 
even here it is almost impossible to form a correct judgment. It 
is sometimes amusing to hear with what perfect scorn the English 
scout at the idea of the Chinese ever taking arms against them 
hereafter ; while, on the other hand, some of our American resi- 
dents, and some of the best informed among them, predict with 
almost equal certainty the speedy rupture of the present treaty. 
I am inclined to think the truth lies between the two. As long 
as the opium-smuggling continues — which, I suppose, will be as 
long as men love money more than they fear God, — there will be 
occasions of difficulty. How these difficulties are to be settled, will 
depend very much on the officers whom the British Government 
and other foreign nations may send out ; but it is too much to 
hope that they will always be settled peaceably. It is a great 
comfort to be persuaded that the Lord reigneth, and that he holds 
the hearts of the kings in his hands. If I may conjecture as to 
the future, it is that there will be great changes in China ere long. 
I do not see how it can be otherwise. The new influences that 
must now be brought to bear upon them ; the new and strange 
sentiments that must now disturb the long-settled train of their 
thoughts ; the various impressions of foreign men and foreign 
things, that must now circulate through the land, slowly, perhaps, 



202 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

but certainly, cannot but excite thought ; and God only knows 
where it will end. " I will overturn, overturn, overturn ; and it 
shall be no more : until he come whose right it is, and I will give 
it him." In the mean time, while the field is open, let us enter in ; 
while the ground is ploughed up, let us cast our seed with a lib- 
eral hand. We may not see its growth, but the word of the Lord 
shall not return unto him void. There can be no fears as to the 
final result, though we can know but little of the intermediate 

steps 

Your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, July 20th, 1843. 
My Dear Father — 

.... I find myself obliged to confess that the warm weather 
has its effects upon me. For a month after it commenced I felt as 
strong and as much disposed to study as ever ; but, for the last 
two weeks, I do not feel able to sit at my books nearly so con- 
stantly as before, nor to take such long walks as usual. I have 
lost a good deal of my appetite, and they all tell me I look pale, 
and thinner than usual. Such is the worst side of the picture ; on 
the other hand, I am not sick, not low spirited, suffer no manner 
of pain, can read and write, and laugh and talk as usual, and do 
anything that does not require long and close mental effort. I sleep 
soundly, and the time passes away rapidly. I don't expect to do 
much studying for a couple of months to come. I had hoped to 
be on my way to visit Amoy and Chusan ere this, but have not 
yet found a suitable vessel, nor do I know of any. If one does 
not offer soon, I shall be obliged to postpone it till some time in 
September or October. . . . 

Your journal of a day interested me very much. I would give 
you something of the kind in return, but am really so ashamed of 
each day's work for the present week, that I would rather not. I 
managed to keep up what little I know of Chinese, and to add a 
little to my stock ; to read some ; and write some ; to take a walk 
every day ; and to preach once a week to the English and Ameri- 
can residents. As I have not yet brought myself to read other 
men's sermons, I have commonly to prepare one every week. This 
takes a good deal of time and thought, and I sometimes feel as if 
I ought not to do it, as the strength thus employed could be used 
in fitting myself for my missionary life. Yet as there are some 
who seem to feel an interest in attending, and as I am the only 
minister here, it does not seem right to neglect them altogether. I 
should like to be among the Chinese. 

Your suggestions about a Chinese dictionary are important, but 
I hardly know what to say in regard to them ; it will be time 
enough for me to think of such a thing, when I can call myself a 
Chinese scholar. I make no pretensions to that name now, nor 



JOURNAL TO AMOY AND CHUSAN. 203 

can I even guess when I shall deserve it ; and if I ever do deserve 
it, I may prefer some other kind of labor, besides dry dictionary 
making. Still, I consider it a duty to keep something of the kind 
in view. You of course will not mention that I do so, as I do not 
wish it to be known. The thought that I may perhaps be of some 
assistance in that way, is one thing which, with others, induces 
me to study the Mandarin, and to prefer one of the northern ports. 
I cannot tell you, my dear father, how much I value your let- 
ters. The spirit of kindness and affection they breathe, is to me 
most truly refreshing and delightful, and I sometimes almost feel 
as if it was worth while to be separated from you in order to enjoy 
them. But I do not altogether give up the hope of seeing you again, 
though I have little expectation of seeing you in the United States. 
When I get into my own house at Ningpo, or some other regular 
Chinese place, I mean to send you and mother a special invitation 
to come and see me. I rather think, too, that you will find it hard 
to refuse my invitation. With many affectionate thoughts of you, 
and of all the members of our beloved family, I remain as ever, 
Your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



JOURNAL TO AMOY AND CHUSAN. 

It appeared very desirable, that some member of our mission 
should visit the ports of China, recently opened for foreign com- 
merce, and make inquiries as to their suitableness for missionary 
operations. Accordingly, I made such arrangements as would 
allow me to be absent from Macao, for about two months ; and 
having engaged a passage in an English vessel going up the coast, 
I left Macao in the latter end of August, expecting, as the wind 
was then favorable, to reach Chusan in ten days. We were, how- 
ever, very unnecessarily delayed several days in Hong Kong ; and 
after getting out to sea, found, to our surprise, that the vessel was 
very badly provided for a sea voyage, having no chronometer on 
board, and a very insufficient supply of water and provisions. We 
succeeded in reaching Amoy, and went some distance beyond it ; 
but having been detained too long in Hong Kong, the monsoon 
changed before we could reach Chusan, and our ill-provided vessel 
was unable to make headway against it. After beating for several 
days and making no progress, we found our provisions were run- 
ning short, and seeing no prospect of soon accomplishing our 
voyage, the passengers requested the captain to return to Amoy. 
This was done, and the time for which I had made arrangements 
to be absent, being now more than half elapsed, I thought it better 
to spend a few days in Amoy, and then to return to Macao, rather 
than to attempt to proceed against the monsoon to Chusan, which 
would have been not only tedious, but very uncomfortable. In 
consequence of this disappointment, it was not possible to gain all 



204 MEMOIR OF "WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

the information that was desired — still, however, many things of 
an interesting nature came under my observation, and perhaps 
the best way of presenting them, will be to give them as they 
stand in a journal kept at the time. 

August 26th. Left Macao in the morning, in the schooner 
Thomas Crisp. She is to call at Hong Kong, stop a day at Amoy, 
and then proceed to Chusan. The price of passage for the whole 
voyage is one hundred dollars. There was quite a strong wind 
shortly after we left Macao, and the weather becoming very misty, 
we could not see our course among the islands, and were obliged 
to anchor at the western end of Lantas, about twenty miles from 
Macao. We remained at anchor nearly twenty-four hours. 

August 27th. Sabbath — a beautiful day, and a favorable wind 
— reached Hong Kong about three o'clock. 

The vessel should have s-ailed on Monday, but was very unne- 
cessarily delayed until Thursday morning. Having occasion to 
go about from one part of Hong Kong to the other, and not wish- 
ing to expose myself to the sun and rain, which at this season of 
the year must be carefully avoided, I engaged a boat to be at my 
complete control, (for a dollar a day.) The boat was long and 
narrow, being perhaps fifteen feet in length and six in width in 
its broadest part ; it had one mast with a mat sail, which could be 
raised or lowered in a moment. It was owned by a man and his 
wife, who made it their home, and gained their living by carrying 
passengers and going of errands. They form part of the boat 
population, Avhich is so remarkable a feature in the aspect of this 
part of China. At Macao, Hong Kong, and many other places in 
the Canton province, and particularly at the city of Canton itself, 
there are immense numbers of people who spend their whole lives 
on the water. They are considered by those who live on shore as an 
inferior race, and are scarcely allowed to form connections by mar- 
riage, except among themselves. The size of their boats varies 
very much, though the greater part of them are much smaller 
than the one I had now engaged. At Whampoa I have seen hun- 
dreds of their boats, each the habitation of a family, that were 
not more than ten feet in length and five in breadth. In these 
they are born — here they live — they marry and are given in mar- 
riage, and here they die. The number of people dwelling in boats 
in the river near Canton, is estimated at near one hundred thou- 
sand. Their boats are called Tan-kea boats, or egg-house boats, 
because when covered, as they usually are, with a mat roof, they 
bear a great resemblance in shape to an egg. As may be sup- 
posed, they are generally a very degraded and ignorant race, and 
their ideas on religious subjects of the very lowest order. Yet, 
there is not one of these boats, however poor in other respects, that 
has not its little shelf or little apartment with an idol, and a cen- 
ser — or if too poor for that, at least a bit of red paper with mys- 
tical characters inscribed, and a few glittering ornaments, before 
which incense sticks are daily burned. 



JOURNAL TO AMOY AND CHUSAN. 205 

The boat I had engaged had a covering over the central part, 
beneath which the family slept. In front, the man stood to row, 
and behind there was space for four or five persons to seat them- 
selves comfortably, besides allowing the woman room to scull the 
boat. Underneath this part were the cooking utensils, fire-place, 
and provisions ; in the house was a little cupboard, perhaps two 
feet square, and a roll of mats for a bed, and beneath the front 
part, where the man stood, was a place to hold wood and water. 
The back part where the passengers sit is covered with a mat 
awning, forming an excellent shelter from sun and rain, and allow- 
ing a free circulation of air. When the wind was favorable, they 
hoisted the sail and the woman steered. When there was no 
wind, the man rowed and the woman sculled. 

They had two children, one a boy about three years old, and 
the other a girl of seven months. The boy had no playmates, 
few playthings, and but little playground, yet he seemed quite 
happy and contented. Sometimes he sat by his mother and gazed 
at the passenger ; sometimes he took the little hatchet and chop- 
ped wood or hammered a stone ; and sometimes he lay down in 
the little house and slept. But his chief amusement was to stand 
by his father when rowing, and lean upon the oar. He thus ac- 
quired without effort all the motions necessary in rowing. He 
was especially delighted to stand on a little footstool and have it 
turn over and throw him down, and when he succeeded in falling 
he laughed most joyously. By way of precaution, a piece of light 
wood was attached to his back, to keep him afloat if he should 
chance to fall overboard. As for the little girl, her mother strap- 
ped her on her back, and there she hung, her bare legs dangling 
out, and her head swinging to and fro with the motion of her 
mother's body as she sculled the boat. The couple seemed quite 
happy, and were very civil and obliging. I frequently left articles 
worth many times more than all the compensation they expected 
from me, for hours together in their boat, and never lost anything. 

August 31st. Got under way from Hong Kong about nine 
o'clock, a. m., but having light and unfavorable winds, made very 
slow progress. Obliged to come to anchor at night opposite Chek 
Chu, on the southern side of the island. 

Hong Kong is a small, irregularly-shaped island. Its entire 
circumference is about twenty-seven miles, and a more hilly, rocky 
place, can hardly be imagined. It seems on first sight almost im- 
possible to discover a place suitable for a residence, and it is only 
by cutting down the hills and levelling the ground, that suitable 
building sites can be obtained. This levelling of the ground is 
one of the causes of the great expensiveness of building in Hong 
Kong ; for it frequently costs from three hundred to a thousand 
dollars merely to remove the stones and prepare the ground for 
building. The great reason why this island was selected by the 
English, is found in the harbor, which is one of the finest in the 
world. It was first taken possession of in January, 1841— and 



206 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

was officially acknowledged by the Chinese, and received by the 
English, as a dependency on the British crown, in June, 1843. Its 
population when taken possession of at first was about four thou- 
sand ; but it very soon increased wonderfully, on account of the 
demand for laborers on the roads and houses, and the shops that 
were established. Its present population must be near twenty 
thousand, who are principally of the lower orders, though there 
are some of the more respectable classes, and their numbers are 
said to be increasing. It is to be feared that the island of Hong 
Kong itself will never be a very good place for direct missionary 
labors ; but its commercial importance, and the large number of 
natives residing in the neighboring islands, and on the shores of 
the main land adjoining it, will always make it an object of im- 
portance to have at least one station there. Nor should it be for- 
gotten, that Hong Kong is in a manner the key of Canton prov- 
ince, which contains a population of nineteen millions of inhabi- 
tants, — being more than the whole population of the United States. 
Should China be thrown more widely open than it now is, (and he 
who has opened it so wide already can as easily open it wider,) all 
this vast number of people will be accessible to the missionary, 
and it is chiefly from the stations at Hong Kong, that they must 
be supplied. 

During the voyage from Hong Kong to Amoy we passed in 
sight of three of the great opium depots along the coast. These 
three were Tong-san, How-tow-san, and Namoa. At these three 
places, the opium dealers in Canton and Macao, have ships con- 
stantly stationed to keep supplies of opium, and to them the 
smaller vessels, or " opium clippers," as they are called, resort for 
cargoes, which they carry to different parts of the coast and dispose 
of always for silver. The number of vessels employed in this 
traffic is very great. A single mercantile house in Canton and 
Macao, employs about fifty vessels, ships, barks, brigs and schoon- 
ers, while another house has thirty or more.* These vessels carry 
almost nothing but opium, and receive almost nothing in return 
but silver. The laws of the Chinese against the introduction of 
opium are very severe, but at present they are a mere dead letter ; 
the opium smugglers laugh at them, and carry their vile drug reck- 
lessly to all parts of the coast, where it is purchased by the 
Chinese, and carried into different parts of the country. The 
Chinese officers themselves, instead of striving to prevent its intro- 
duction, connive at it, being frequently bribed for that purpose by 

* The amount of capital embarked in the opium trade is enormous, as may be judged 
of from the number of vessels employed. The smallest of these vessels probably costs 

the owners upwards of $5,000 annually. A schooner like the or costs 

from 800 to 1200 dollars a month merely for her sailing, i. e. wages, wear and tear ; 
so that the annual expense of one of the least of these messengers of evil, is greater 
than the whole expenses of our mission in any year since its commencement ; while 
the brigs, barks, and ships cost still more. This is merely for wages of the men and 
officers, and the wear and tear of the vessel, and is exclusive of all the money ex- 
pended in purchasing the opium, storirg it, and packing and repacking. 



JOURNAL TO AMOY AND CHUSAN. 207 

the smugglers. One of the very greatest difficulties in the way of 
Christian missions in China, arises from the prevalence of the use 
of opium; and it is to be feared that it will long continue in the 
way. When a man acquires a taste for opium, there is nothing he 
will not do to gratify it ; and its use is most deleterious. It injures 
his bodily health, it stupefies his mental powers, and it deadens his 
moral feelings, and when the habit of using it is once confirmed, 
it is almost impossible to abandon it. The fondness for opium is 
one of the strong chains in which Satan has bound this great 
people, and it is a heart-sickening reflection, that this evil luxury 
is supplied to them by the merchants of the two nations which 
profess to be actuated by the purest Christianity. It is almost im- 
possible to find a vessel going up the coast, which does not carry it. 

September 5th. Reached Amoy, and was received with a hearty 
welcome by the Rev. Mr. Abeel and Dr. Cumming. They were 
the only missionaries then residing at Amoy, or rather at Ku- 
langsu, which is a beautiful little island not more than one-fourth 
of a mile from Amoy. The Rev. Mr. Boone of the American 
Episcopal Board, and Rev. Mr. McBryde of our Board, were both 
at this station for some time, but have been obliged to return to 
the United States on account of ill health. It is the expectation 
of each of them to return again, if health be restored. 

In the evening after reaching Kulangsu, Dr. Cumming and 
myself went over to Amoy to see the place. We crossed from 
Kulangsu to Amoy for ten cash a-piece, (it takes eleven or twelve 
cash to make a cent.) The boats in the Fuhkeen province are 
few compared with those in the Canton province, and are not at 
all to be compared with the latter, either for beauty, neatness or 
comfort. The men in the small row-boats here reverse the usual 
order of proceedings, for they stand up in the stern of the boats 
to row, and place the passengers in the middle and bow of the 
boat. The floating population in this province is small, and the 
boats are seldom rowed by women. The people in general 
seemed to have more prominent cheek-bones and flatter noses 
than those I had seen in other parts of China ; perhaps their flat 
noses give them some advantage in uttering the abundant nasal 
sounds of the Fuhkeen dialect. 

We went first through several streets in the suburbs of the city, 
then into the city itself, and walked half round it on the city wall, 
which is wide enough for three or four persons to walk abreast, 
and returned to Kulangsu a little after dark. ''Multitudes, multi- 
tudes," was the impression that forced itself upon me in walking 
through the crowded streets, and looking out over the close-built 
environs of this great city. The suburbs are much larger than 
the city itself, and most of the merchants' shops are there. Each 
street, both within the city and in the suburbs, is closed at each 
end by gates every night ; all are narrow, and all are dirty. It 
is hardly possible for foreigners to live in the close filthy quarters 
generally occupied by the Chinese. We can live in houses like 



208 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

theirs with but little difficulty, but their position is generally low 
and damp, and their being so dirty and so closely crowded to- 
gether, combine to render them unhealthy. 

There is bat little luxury observable in Amoy, or splendor in 
their shops, like that seen in Canton, where the foreigners have 
so long resorted. Almost all that was exposed for sale consisted 
of the necessaries of life, articles to eat and drink and wear. 
There were but few women in the streets, but many of them 
gazed at us from the back doors of the houses as we passed. It 
seems to be an almost universal custom in this province for the 
females to wear flowers in their hair ; the custom is not so preva- 
lent in Canton province. If we stopped a moment, in the streets, 
crowds gathered around us. The children clapped their hands, 
and the men gathered around us to examine our dress, and 
seemed especially to admire my stature, but all were perfectly 
civil. We stopped to ask the price of a picture. "A dollar and 
a half," was the ready answer. " Oh, no !" said another, " don't 
you see they are teachers." "Well you may have it for one 
hundred and fifty cash," equal to twelve-and-a-half cents ! 

The country back of Amoy consists almost entirely of hills, the 
bleakest and stoniest I ever saw. Except in the little secluded 
valleys, not a tree nor a blade of grass was to be seen ; but in 
every little valley where there was fresh water and a few trees, 
there were sure to be villages, and in proportion to the size of the 
valleys did the villages increase in size. The green rice fields at 
the foot of the bare and barren hills contrasted beautifully with 
the rocks around them. The population of Amoy is variously 
estimated, but two hundred thousand for the city and the suburbs 
in its immediate vicinity, is the most common, and probably the 
most correct estimate. The number of villages in sight from 
Kulangsu is wonderful. Whence does all this vast population 
draw its subsistence, for the country around does not appear capa- 
ble of sustaining the tenth part of those who live here? Partly 
from the sea, partly from commerce, and partly from the interior 
of the country which receives many foreign commodities from 
Amoy. The Fuhkeen men are the New Englanders of China, 
and their vessels make long voyages, going to all parts of the 
Chinese coast, to Manila, to Borneo, to Singapore and to Java, 
but not often venturing as far as India. A great part of the rice 
used in other provinces is imported from the island of Formosa, 
which lies about seventy miles to the eastward. 

Nine opium ships were anchored close alongside of Amoy, 
and also two vessels that had no opium on board. I was told, 
on good authority, that every man in Amoy who could afford to 
buy opium was in the habit of smoking it. The Chinese officers 
make no effort whatever to prevent its introduction, and I saw 
opium pipes openly exposed for sale in the streets. A few years 
ago it would have been almost as much as a Chinaman's life was 



AMOV. 209 

worth, to have been detected in the sale of anything used in con- 
suming the prohibited article. 

The next morning (Sept. 7) Mr. Abeel and myself rose early 
for a walk round the island of Kulangsu. It is about three miles 
long, not quite a mile broad, and is wonderfully diversified with 
hill and dale. Small as it is, I have never seen so many beauti- 
ful prospects in the same space. Every hill-top is crowned with 
black and naked rocks, while every spot of ground that can be cul- 
tivated is used (or rather was used, for the Chinese are not now 
allowed to reside on the island, while it is occupied by the Eng- 
lish troops,) either for houses, or rice grounds, or tombs. The pop- 
ulation, previously to its being occupied by the British, has been 
commonly estimated at five thousand, but judging from the houses 
still standing, and the ruins of those torn down, I should say, this 
was a very moderate estimate. There may have been eight or 
ten thousand persons, and from the style of the houses, it may be 
inferred that many of the wealthier inhabitants of Amoy had 
their common residences on this island. There are a number of 
noble banyan trees, and my impressions of the island were very 
favorable. 

It was beautiful exceedingly. Perhaps it appeared more beau- 
tiful from its dissimilarity to the bare and rugged hills of Hong 
Kong and Macao, but it reminded me strongly of many scenes 
long since, perhaps forever, passed. It was melancholy to see 
the ruined houses, and to meet the English soldiers at every 
step, for they told of violence and war. It was sad to look upon 
these multitudes, all accessible, full three hundred thousand 
souls, who might be visited by the missionary between sunrise 
and nightfall, without his ever spending a night from home, and 
instructed about the way of life ; but who is there to break to 
them the bread of life? One poor almost broken-down minister, 
and one physician, who with stammering lips set before them the 
way of truth. Dr. Cumming's time is fully taken up in attend- 
ing to the cases of disease that are brought to his house, and Mr. 
Abeel daily converses with them, and distributes religious tracts, 
besides having a service on the Sabbath for all who choose to 
come. The attendance on Sabbath varies from thirty to eighty, 
and the names and objects of the missionaries are now well known, 
and they are treated with much favor both by the rulers and the 
common people. 

Infanticide is very common in this province ; very many in- 
quiries have been made by the missionaries, and all the testimony 
goes to prove that it prevails to a fearful extent. It is not saying 
too much to affirm, that in the districts around Amoy, one-fifth, 
or one-sixth of the children perish by the hands, or with the con- 
sent of their parents. One poor man said to Mr. Abeel with an 
air of the greatest simplicity and sincerity, "Teacher, before you 
came, I killed five of my children ; I would not do it now, for you 
have showed me that it is wrong, but before you came 1 did not 
14 



210 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

know that — who was there to tell me ?" Alas ! who was there 
to tell him ? The opium smugglers are dealing their poison all 
around, but very rarely does a missionary appear amongst them, 
and those who do come, have difficulties to contend with as they 
sit upon the damp tiled floors of the native houses, and breathe 
the unwholesome air of the swampy fields, such as rarely enter 
into the minds of those who dwell in their ceiled houses, and talk- 
in their own native language. 

I visited the grave of Mrs. Boone. It is in a beautiful quiet 
garden, a little tree stands at the foot, and an immense banian 
spreads its shade over the whole. She died August 30, 1842. It 
was a time of sadness and sorrow when that first member of the 
missionary band here fell ; but I could not regard her lonely grave 
in any other light than as a pledge that the kingdom shall yet be 
the Lord's. For not alone shall that Christian wife and mother 
sleep here ; others of the missionary circle shall also toil, and lie 
down here, and around them shall sleep those saved by their 
means, and sooner or later we shall look upon graves, even in 
this heathen land, with the same feelings of calm and joyful hope 
with which we behold them in Christian lands. May the Lord 
hasten that time ! for it is a sorrowful thought as we look upon 
the countless graves that throng every hill-side around us, " Not 
one of all these myriads ever heard the name of Christ — where 
now are their souls?" It was a pleasant thing in my native land 
to go to the grave-yard on Saturday evenings, or the Sabbath 
morning, and sit upon the tombs, and think of heaven ; but I 
cannot do that in China. 

We left Amoy on Thursday, September 7, about noon, and after 
beating out some six or seven miles, had a " slashing breeze" in 
our favor. Our course lay to the north-east, along the coast of 
China, too far off to see minute objects, but near enough to dis- 
tinguish its outline and general features. From Hong Kong to 
Amoy, a distance of over three hundred miles, the coast is re- 
markably rocky, bold, and mountainous, hardly a plain was to 
be seen. But immediately after passing Amoy the appearance of 
the coast changed. It became level with gentle elevations and 
depressions, and this lasts for nearly two hundred miles, when it 
resumes its rocky character. I could scarcely take my eyes away 
from the first of the gently rising hills that was seen. It was so 
different from all that I had witnessed for nearly twenty months, 
and reminded me so strongly of objects seen in my own native 
land, that it required but little stretch of fancy to cover the scene 
with the peaceful homes, and smiling villages, and solemn churches 
of America. But, alas, how different the reality ! Multitudes, 
multitudes of immortal beings, but all ignorant of the truth ! An 
opium clipper followed us out of Amoy, and being a faster sailer 
than we, soon passed us on her way to Chimmoo Bay, another 
great opium depot. It reminded me sadly of the truth that the 
men of this world are wiser in their generation than the children 



I 



JOURNAL FROM AMOY. 211 

of light. But I found consolation where I had not looked for it. 
We were sailing on the wide sea. The whole expanse of the 
Pacific Ocean, with its unfathomed depths and uncounted waves, 
was rolling on our right, and its waters washed the shores of the 
most populous empire on the earth. Behold ! " The earth shall 
be filled with the knowledge of the glory of the Lord as the waters 
zover the seas" Hab. iii. 14. What though men, for the sake of 
gain, follow practices that injure their fellow-men, and impede the 
progress of the Gospel, it shall not always be so ; for thus saitb 
the Lord, " They shall not hurt nor destroy in all my holy moun- 
tain ; for the earth shall be full of the knowledge of the Lord, as 
the waters cover the sea," Isaiah ix. 11. With such an assurance 
from such a source, what more do we want to confirm our faith 
and encourage our hope ? 

Friday, September 15. When within one hundred and twenty 
miles of Chusan the monsoon changed, and after beating about for 
several days, and making no progress, we anchored at the Island 
of San-pan-shan, in order to replenish our water-casks, and wait, 
if perhaps the weather might become more moderate. The island 
of San-pan-shan is in north lat. 28 deg. 5 min., and east long. 122 
deg. 

The passengers went ashore to-day for a stroll over the island, 
and at the beach where we landed, we found about a hundred men 
collected. They spoke a dialect that none of us understood, and 
our only intercourse with them was by signs, and the few Chinese 
words we could pick up. There were twelve or thirteen small 
Chinese vessels, junks as they are here called, in a little cove on 
the side of the island opposite where we had anchored, which had 
probably gone there to escape the bad weather. We saw about 
two hundred persons in all, a part of whom doubtless belonged to 
the junks in the little bay. I doubt whether the whole population 
of the island amounts to one hundred persons ; there were very 
few women, and very few children. The people seemed to be very 
poor ; dwelt in miserable huts, and raised a very few vegetables ; 
there were no rice-fields, but there were plenty of sweet potatoes, 
which seemed, indeed, to be almost the only vegetable cultivated. 
I suppose the people were principally fishermen ; they were of 
small stature, and very dark complexion, and spoke a dialect much 
resembling the Fuhkeen. 

The island is small, and of a crescent shape : it is, perhaps, two 
miles in length, and three-fourths of a mile in breadth, with two 
or three smaller islands near it. Its foundation is the solid granite 
rock, which is quite bare for many feet above low water mark. 
Like all Chinese islands that I have yet seen, it is hilly ; but the 
hills, though high, are not quite so abrupt as those on the islands 
farther south. On the top of the very highest hill was a heap of 
stones piled up and about four feet high. When or why built I 
had no means of ascertaining. 

Just above our landing-place, and near the principal collection 



212 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

of huts, was an idol temple, dedicated to Ma-tsoo-po, a favorite 
Chinese goddess. There was nothing remarkable about it, except 
its fllthiness, and two figures about two-thirds the size of men, 
standing on a block of wood near the door. They were painted 
black, with red and glaring eyes, and horribly-distorted mouths, 
all begrimed with smoke of incense-sticks, and dirt ; they were fit 
representations of the horrid charac.er of him whom this deluded 
people worship. There were several brazen incense-stands on 
the altar, one of which I wished to take away, but the people 
would not allow of it. " No, it was Ma-tsoo-po's." I would give 
a good deal to be able to transport the two black images as they 
are, to the Mission House in New York. 

In one of the huts a dozen men were busy gambling : so intent 
were they on their game, that they scarcely looked at us as we 
passed, though they had probably never seen a foreigner in their 
lives before. Here, as everywhere else, the people knew the for- 
eigners only by what is evil. One of the men, who seemed a little 
more respectable than tbe rest, and to whom, after making sure 
that he could read it, I gave a Chinese tract, finding I knew a little 
Chinese, asked me something 1 did not understand. He then in- 
vited me into his hut, begged me to be seated, and wrote down in 
Chinese the question. " How do you sell your opium ?" Two or 
three men were smoking opium at the time. As well as I could, 
I expressed my dislike and abhorrence of the practice, and went 
out, greatly to his surprise. Going past the temple, as we went 
back to our boat, I looked in again, and there were six or eight 
people stretched on the floor, and drawing away at their opium 
pipes ; some of them were already half stupefied by it, and the 
place was filled by the fumes of the sickening drug. Popery and 
opium will be the great opponents of the missionaries in China. 
There is not a place to which we can go, where the opium-dealer 
has not already gone, and there is no moral sentiment in China to 
second the efforts of her rulers to banish the baneful luxury from 
her borders. I could almost fancy that the horrible images in the 
idol temple looked with complacency on the prostrate forms of the 
smokers at their feet ; and sure I am that the ruler of the spirits 
of darkness and evil rejoices in the diffusion of opium in China. 

Wednesday, September 27th. Finding that our vessel was in no 
condition to beat against the monsoon, and that our prospect of 
reaching Chusan in her was very poor, we reluctantly turned 
about, and arrived at Amoy yesterday. It is a mysterious dispen- 
sation of providence, but doubtless He who holds the winds in his 
fist has wise ends in view, in disappointing my hopes : "What I 
do thou knowest not now, but thou shalt know hereafter." 

Sitting in Mr. Abeel's house this morning, about a dozen very 
respectably-dressed Chinese from Tung-an, the capital of this dis- 
trict, came in. After making some remarks to them on the nature 
of the Christian religion, and of the plan of salvation, to which 
they listened with interest, interspersing remarks of their own by 



JOURNAL AT AMOY. 213 

the way, he asked them of their customs, particularly in regard to 
infanticide. One man said they " destroyed more than half the 
female children," (the boys they never kill.) The rest of the com- 
pany corrected this, saying, "No, formerly we did, but now we 
destroy about one out of three." This is the common answer 
given by hundreds of persons. As soon as a girl is born, if they 
do not wish her to live, she is suffocated. Want of natural affec- 
tion, and an unwillingness to encounter the expense of supporting 
the children, are the reasons for this cruel procedure. They ac- 
knowledge it to be cruel, but seldom seem to think it is wrong.* 

September 28. Walked out before sunrise to the top of the high- 
est hill in Ku-lang-su. It is crowned by several rocks, two of 
which are of great size ; one of them is more than one hundred 
feet long, at least eighty feet broad, and eighty feet high, all above 
ground. The view from the top would have embraced the whole 
circumference of the horizon : but not being able to reach it, I was 
obliged to content myself at its base ; still, by changing my posi- 
tion, I could see on all sides. The hills of the main land, and of 
the islands in sight, rose, as they always do in this part of China, 
steep, bare, and barren ; and the spots of fertile ground were few 
and comparatively small. But wherever a clump of trees grew, a 
village was sure to be seen. I counted more than twenty villages, 
all in full view, and none more than ten or twelve miles distant: 
besides the city of Amoy itself, all of these are perfectly accessible 
to the missionary ; he may go to any of them without let or hin- 
derance, and preach or distribute books, and for the present at 
least, he will be sure of crowds of attentive hearers. There is 
very little that is inviting in the appearance of Chinese towns. 
The houses are all low, and few or none are distinguished by any 
architectural beauty. They are built without taste, and it is sel- 
dom that any flowers are cultivated by the sides of the poorer peo- 
ple's houses ; they are commonly built so close together, that at a 
short distance you see nothing but the weather-worn roofs, but 
occasionally some beautiful scenes meet the eye. I scarcely know 
a more romantic spot than the Western village, on the island of 
Ku-lang-su. Just fancy a little valley containing several acres 
of ground, rather long, and opening out like a fan, hemmed in on 
all sides but one by steep and rocky hills, and facing a sheet of 
.water studded with islands. It has several noble banian trees, 
and fifty or sixty Chinese houses very neatly built, and dispersed 
at the foot of the hills, between the trees. The houses, however, 
are now uninhabited, and most of them are in a sad state for want, 
of attention. 

The Chinese do not use gunpowder in blasting rocks, but split 
the largest of them simply by the use of wedges. I saw a rock 
that had been split in two, and the part that remained was fifty 
feet long and thirty feet high. 

* See the Chinese Repository for Oct. 1843. 



214 MEMOIR OF WAL TER M. LOWRIE. 

Took a boat and went to see a Budhist temple some two or three 
miles south-east of Amoy. It stands at the foot of the high ridge 
of hills running from the city of Amoy into the interior of Amoy 
island, and is about half a mile from the shores of the bay. In 
front of the temple is an inclosure containing four open buildings, 
in each of which are two gigantic stone tortoises six feet long and 
four feet broad. Each tortoise supports a white stone tablet, ten 
feet high and four feet broad, and covered one with Chinese and 
the other with Tartar inscriptions ; the Chinese characters are 
certainly very well adapted for inscriptions, and I have rarely seen 
any specimens of cutting in stone so beautifully executed as these 
are. The purport of the inscriptions seemed to be maxims and 
moral sentences ; but as to their particular meaning, I forbear to 
interpret it. Directly behind these tablets was the entrance of 
the temple, with all its array of dingy paintings, grotesque carving 
and queer dragons above the door. On entering, the first object 
seen was a gilt statue of Budh, of gigantic size, with a green veil 
over the window of the inclosure where he was seated. Behind 
him was another gigantic image, and on either side were two 
other giants ; on one side a male and a female with a guitar in 
her hand, and on the other side a female, and a black and horrid- 
looking male attendant. Each statue is said to be eighteen feet 
high, and of one solid stone. I did not think them so high, and 
thought they were made of clay ; but a railing in front prevented 
a close examination. Passing beyond the gilt image, there was 
an open court with four trees ; on each side of the court was a 
square tower, the second story of one of which contained a drum, 
and of the other a bell. Beyond these, and in a line with them, 
were two long galleries, each containing nine gilt images of Chi- 
nese sages, some of which were decorated with blue beards. Be- 
tween the two galleries was an octagonal tower, the upper part 
of which was composed of a large number of pieces of wood carved 
of various shapes, with painting and gilding, and dragons and 
images scattered about. The roof was supported by eight stone 
pillars, round each of which twined an immense dragon. The in- 
terior of the temple contained a number of images, the principal 
of which was Kwante, seated on the lower half of an immense 
pine-apple, with a gilded frame behind her resembling the rays 
behind the Speaker's chair in the capitol at Washington. She 
was surrounded by half a dozen other images, large and small ; 
incense was constantly burning before her, and on a frame nu- 
merous printed prayers were suspended. Behind this tower were 
three apartments, stretching across the whole breadth of the tem- 
ple, and in each of them were three images, one principal and two 
subordinates. One of the principal images was Kwante, another 
was Ma-tsoo-po ; the name of the third I did not learn. Here we 
were met by two of the priests, pale in countenance, dressed in 
white, and of rather pleasing manners. Only one of them said 
anything, but he was quite talkative. They gave us tea without 



JOURNAL AT AMOY. 215 

sugar or milk, and promised to call at the mission house in Amoy, 
after which we left them. 

Near this temple, I saw what is rather uncommon in China, 
regularly-inclosed graveyards. There were a great many unin- 
closed tombs all around, but here were three graveyards ; each of 
them had a large tomb in the centre, and a great many of com- 
mon appearance regularly arranged around, completely filling up 
the inclosed spaces. The burying-grounds were all small, but 
extremely full. The largest Avas only one hundred feet square, 
and yet it had three hundred and fifty graves in it, all of which 
seemed to be of about the same age. It is not known to foreign- 
ers, and not to any Chinese of whom we made inquiries, who are 
buried there. The inscriptions at the entrance of each would per- 
haps tell, but it requires time and patience to copy and translate 
them. Just within the entrance of each was a stone with the in- 
scription fuh shin, happy spirits ! Alas ! are they happy? None 
were children's graves. 

October 1, Sabbath. In the morning attended Mr. Abeel's Chi- 
nese service ; about twenty were present, which is a smaller num- 
ber than usual. Among them was a Budhist priest, and several 
very respectably-dressed gentlemen. Most of them attended well. 
In the evening preached to the soldiers ; owing to the sickness 
prevailing at present, the congregation was small ; only about 
seventy were present, yet it was the largest number I have 
preached to at one time since leaving New York. 

October 2, Monday. Monthly Concert to-night. I conducted the 
services and made the first prayer, then read Psalm lxviii., and 
made some remarks on the frequency with which the promises of 
the conversion of the world are followed by glorious ascriptions of 
praise to God, as shown : — Ps. lxviii. 31, 32, Is. xliv. 23, and xlix. 
12, 13. Mr. Roberts then prayed, and made some remarks on the 
necessity of faith in Christ, and of entire dependence on his grace, 
rather than trusting in feelings and frames of mind. We sang a 
hymn, and Mr. Abeel prayed. It was a pleasant time. . 

JOURNAL TO CHANG-CHOW. 

October 3. Mr. Abeel and I have been talking for some days of 
making an excursion into the interior, some thirty or forty miles, 
and to-day we went off to engage a boat. There are so many 
rivers and streams along the coast of China, and the Chinese so 
commonly live near the water, that almost all travelling is in 
boats. Hence the expression, Haou fung shwuy, literally mean- 
ing a fair wind and tide, is equivalent to saying, " Good luck go 
with you," or " May you have a prosperous time." After a deal 
of chaffering and bargaining, and being almost deafened by the 
noisy Chinese we had to talk with, (when talking earnestly, the 
common people actually shout their words,) we arranged with an 
old man to be taken to Chang-Chow, a city of the second order, 



216 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

and said to be twice as large as Amoy, for three dollars and a 
half. One of our Chinese friends promises to accompany us. 

As we came back from the boat, we met a whole fleet of fisher- 
men coming in from the sea, though it was but three o'clock, p. m., 
and the day was fine. It seems, however, they anticipated bad 
weather, and came into the harbor for shelter. The knowledge 
of the weather possessed by Chinese boatmen is really wonderful, 
— one of them is almost as good as a barometer. Their boats had 
hardly reached Amoy, before it began to blow quite fresh ; and, 
doubtless, out at sea there was a heavy wind. 

Wednesday, Oct. 4. After a hasty breakfast, started, and our 
boat, which was of about twenty tons burden, got under weigh at 
seven o'clock. The tide was against us, but the wind was favor- 
able, and we speedily reached and passed Pagoda Island, which 
is about two miles west of Kulangsu. Passing the island on the 
north, we entered a noble bay, some ten or twelve miles long from 
east to west, and four or five in breadth. It was surrounded on 
all sides by the high, steep, barren hills, so common in Chinese 
scenery ; with plains of greater or less extent at their bases. 
From the deck of our small boat, it was difficult to judge correctly 
of the size of the plains, though some of them must have been 
large. The shores of the bay all around were lined with villages, 
few of which were three miles apart ; I counted more than 
twenty, and our boatmen said that the whole number was above 
thirty. Allowing a thousand souls to each village, a very moder- 
ate allowance, here are thirty thousand souls around the borders 
of that bay. Every one of these villages is perfectly accessible 
to the missionary. He may leave Kulangsu in a boat after break- 
fast, visit any one of them he pleases, spend an hour or more, 
and return to his house before sunset. Not one of these villages 
is included in the " more than twenty," mentioned under date of 
Sept. 28. 

Our course lay directly through the bay from east to west. At 
its western extremity we found several immense tracts of land 
reclaimed from the waters, and occupied as rice-grounds. A river 
comes down from the north-west, and the land about its mouth 
is low and flat, covered with water at high tides, and dry at low 
tides. The greater part of this has been banked in, and thus 
many hundreds of acres recovered, and made highly produc- 
tive, which would otherwise have been a barren, noisome 
waste. It was a beautiful sight to look over these extended 
grounds, with the little canals winding through them, and to 
see the smooth green fields, with the large trees scattered here 
and there, and the Chinese houses underneath. A few buffaloes 
were grazing about, or rolling like swine in the muddy shores of 
the river, and several Chinese were gathering a large kind of rush 
which grows plentifully on the river banks. It is dried in the sun 
and made into floor mats, and similar articles. Some idea of the 
quantity gathered may be learned from this fact, that the mats 



JOURNAL TO CHANG-CHOW. 21? 

made in this region alone are sold every year for several tens of 
thousands of dollars. The western end of this bay is about 
twelve or fifteen miles from Amoy. The river which enters it 
comes from the N. W. and some two or three miles from its 
mouth is the walled town of Hai-teng, which is on the left, or 
southern bank of the river. It was about ten o'clock, a. m., when 
we passed Hai-teng, and our course still lay up the river to the 
N. W. The valley of the river was low and flat, and not very 
broad, while on either side rose the steep, bare, unequally-elevated 
hills that mark nearly every Chinese prospect I have yet seen. 
Villages uncounted were seen in every direction, noble trees and 
houses among them, cattle in the fields, and boats in the river. 
Oh ! how beautiful it was ! Four or five miles N. W. of Hai- 
teng, and on the same side of the river, was the town of Chobey. 
It is a much more business-like place than Hai-teng. Numerous 
boats were in the river, many lumber-yards were along the banks, 
and many people were seen in every direction. On the opposite bank 
of the river is a collection of villages, eighteen in number, and 
known by the general name of Ota. We were spied by a good 
many of the people here, who crowded down to the banks to see 
us as we passed. 

The river here becomes shallower, and the boat in which we 
had come thus far drawing too much water, we entered a smaller 
one to proceed the rest of our way. It was about the size of a 
common whale-boat, had a square mat sail, and being provided 
with awnings, was very comfortable. The wind being favorable, 
we went along finely ; but small as our boat was, it required some 
knowledge of the river to avoid the shallows, and we touched 
the bottom several times. The water of the river we found to be 
delightfully soft and sweet, and, as the Chinese said, it was ex- 
cellent for making tea. The river had no general name; alto- 
gether we sailed on it about twenty miles, and in that distance 
found that it had three separate names. When we first entered 
it, it was called the Cho-bey river ; a little further on, the Sanche, 
and at Chang-chow, the Nan-mun. These names literally trans- 
lated, are, Stone-horse, Three-branches, and Southern-gate ; I 
have since seen it called the Chang-river : this name is given to it 
by the Jesuits in their account of China. 

After proceeding about five miles from Cho-bey, we went ashore, 
and looked about a little, but found there was little of interest to 
be seen. A couple of coffins with dead bodies in them, were 
lying in the open air under the shadow of some trees. They were 
to remain there until a propitious da}?", and a favorable spot for 
their interment should be found. Bodies are thus left uninterred 
often for years ; one of these coffins had been so long exposed that 
it was falling to pieces for very age ; but the superstitions of the 
Chinese do not allow them to bury their dead, except at lucky 
times, and in places pointed out by their astrologers. It is prob- 
able, however, that the astrologers very easily find a place, and 



218 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. L0WRIE. 

suitable time, for the burial of the poor. It is only those who are 
able to pay that are kept waiting so long. Rice-grounds, fields of 
sugar-cane, and brick kilns with red bricks, (the bricks in Canton 
province are all blue,) were nearly all we saw. We stayed ashore 
hardly five minutes, and yet in that time a score of persons were 
running to see us. Not wishing to attract attention before reach- 
ing Chang-chow, we pushed off and proceeded. Brick kilns now 
became very numerous on each side of the river ; the bricks are 
tolerably well made, and are about as thick and as long as those 
made in the United States, but rather broader. A great article 
of manufacture at these kilns is the tile, which is very extensively 
used for the floors, and entirely for the roofs of houses in China. 
Those for the floors are from eight to twelve inches square, and 
nearly an inch thick ; those for the roofs from four to six inches 
square, and not quite half an inch in thickness. They are laid 
on the rafters three and four deep, and are joined with a little 
plaster; but the work is commonly unskilfully done, and many 
of the houses are leaky. 

The greenness and beauty of the fields and the valleys, which 
occasionally extended back among the hills, were so different from 
the barren appearance of the sea-coast, as to call forth frequent 
expressions of surprise and delight. We passed many villages. 
Two of them were pointed out to us as being the residence of 
Roman Catholics. The account the Pagan Chinese gave us of 
them, was, " They have a goddess whom they worship, and whom 
they call the ' Holy Mother.' " The Chinese call one of their 
own favorite divinities, Ma-tsoo-po, the " Holy Mother." What, 
then, must they think of the Christian religion, when almost the 
only form of it which they see, allows the use of many of their 
own ceremonies, and precisely their own forms of speech ! The 
similarity between the Romish and Budhist religions is so great, 
that some of the early Roman Catholic missionaries to China could 
account for it only by supposing that the devil had induced the 
Chinese to frame a religion very like theirs in order to cast suspi- 
cion and discredit upon them ! These Roman Catholic Chinese 
are very little different from the Pagans around them, and though 
their profession of the Christian religion is contrary to law, yet it 
is overlooked by the officers, and perhaps is unknown at Pekin. 
They are occasionally visited by the priests, who secretly enter the 
country, and hastily visit such places as these to confirm the peo- 
ple in their faith. 

About one o'clock, p. m., we arrived at the city, with but little 
warning, from the boats or other appearances indicating a large 
population, that we were near it. The first distinct intimation we 
had of being near it, was the sight of a long high bridge over the 
river. A number of the people on shore had already seen us, and 
by the time we landed, quite a crowd of men and boys gathered 
around us. They were civil, but evidently greatly astonished, as 
we were almost the first foreigners who had ever been there. 



JOURNAL AT CHANG-CHOW- 219 

Two small parties of English officers had gone there a few months 
previously, but one of them was not allowed even to eater the 
city, and the other saw only a very small part of it. We were 
the first Americans, and the only Protestant missionaries, who had 
ever been there, and we felt some little anxiety as to how we 
should be received. We could not have complained of the officers 
if they had utterly refused us permission to enter, or had even in- 
sisted on our immediate departure. But we were determined to 
see the place, and make inquiries concerning it, if w T e could peace- 
ably do so. Accordingly the boatmen carried our luggage, and 
our Chinese friend conducted us through the suburbs by a near 
cut, and we were soon in the city. He then led us, as he said, 
towards a house appropriated for the reception of officers from the 
other provinces. 

It w r as soon evident that we were something " uncommon." 
Numbers of people came in with us, and as we passed through 
the streets and were discovered by those ahead of us, the wonder 
and the crowd increased. Our complexions and dress, our stature, 
and my spectacles, at once drew the attention of everybody. The 
shopkeeper turned away from his customer, the carpenter dropped 
his plane, and the shoemaker his last, the tailor his needle, and 
the apothecary his pill-box, and even the beggar forgot his voca- 
tion ; the women peeped out from the doors, and the children ran 
on before and stopped to have a good look at us ; old and young, 
high and low, were filled with one common feeling of surprise, and 
gazed at us as if we had fallen from the clouds. 

Our guide professed to know the road, but soon showed he was 
ignorant of it ; and after leading us through several crowded 
streets in the hot sun, brought us at last to a little low dirty tav- 
ern, instead of the house appropriated to the reception of foreign 
officers, where he had intended to take us. However, there was 
no help for it, and to make the best of the matter, we had our 
dinner prepared. In Chinese taverns, nothing is provided except 
the bare w T alls, the traveller being expected to carry his own 
bedding and procure his own provisions, though the landlord 
finds a place to cook, and perhaps gives some little assistance in 
the way of service. On going into the house we shut the door to 
keep the crowd out, but they were not so easily satisfied, and 
being old and crazy, they actually broke it open. One of us was 
obliged therefore to stand by it, and let them gaze while dinner 
was in course of preparation. They made no effort to molest us, 
being, on the contrary, quite good-humored and civil ; but cer- 
tainly in all my life I never was so stared at before. One man, all 
smiles and politeness, came up, and begged leave to examine my 
dress, at the various parts of w T hich he expressed the most un- 
bounded admiration. My cap was much better than his, the but- 
tons of my coat were kaho, Icaho, very much better. My pockets 
were an admirable device, while the shoes were a perfect gem ! 
He was even proceeding to open my shirt-bosom, and pull up my 



220 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

pantaloons, but on being told that it was not polite to do so, he 
desisted, and with many bows and smiles departed. 

While we were eating our rice and eggs, in came an officer 
with a crystal button and peacock's feather.* He was rather rude 
at first, and made a very slight salutation. He spoke only the 
Mandarin, or Court dialect,t and had an interpreter, who seemed 
to be his principal business-man, and with whom we had after- 
wards a good deal of intercourse. He was an active man, chewed 
a great deal of betel-nut, which made his mouth always red, and 
was exceedingly polite. Whenever anything was said, he was all 
smiles and attention, shut his eyes and shook his head, and 
laughed most heartily ; he could stop laughing, too, just as soon 
as he commenced, and could, on occasion, assume a very grave 
air and severe tone. On the whole, Hiked him pretty well. The 
officer asked our names, profession, age, object in coming, &c, 
and advised us to go away ; but, after a few minutes' conversa- 
tion, his manner changed a good deal, and he became much more 
polite, and was even curious to inspect our knives and forks, and 
articles of dress. While we were engaged with him, in came an- 
other officer, a tall, slender, gentlemanly man, and, probably, a 
Tartar. He, likewise, wore a crystal button ; his robes were 
beautifully clean and neat ; and his manners were exceedingly 
polished, amounting in some respects almost to over-refinement. 
He was dressed in his official cap, and black satin boots, which 
came up to his knees, a beautiful blue silk robe reaching beneath 
the knees, and over this a dark maroon-colored silk-garment, 
reaching to the waist, with bright gold buttons in front. He also 
had six or seven attendants, one of whom was the tallest man I 
have seen in China. He was over six feet two inches in height, 
and appeared quite out of countenance when we remarked on his 
stature. The Tartar officer bowed to us most politely, and beg- 
ged us to be seated, then bowed to the first officer, and we talked 
a while. Presently in came a third officer, bearing a gold button, 
with another crowd of attendants. One of the attendants carries 
a note-book, another the indispensable tobacco-pipe, a third an 

* The button is a round ball, a little larger than a pigeon's egg, on the top of the 
cap. A gold (or gilt) is the mark of the lowest grade ; an opake white one, of the 
second; and a crystal button of the third. There are six other grades still higher, 
each distinguished by different colored buttons. The peacock's feather is a bunch of 
three or four feathers in an ivory handle, hanging down behind from the rim of the 
cap, which is commonly given as the reward of some eminent service. This man 
was a stout, thickset person, with mustaches, and half a dozen attendants. The cap 
they all wore was the summer cap, made of plaited straw, and of a round conical shape, 
with long red silk threads hanging down from the top all around. His differed from 
those of his attendants, only in the fineness of the materials, and in the button on the 
top. 

| All the civil officers speak Mandarin. They are never appointed to office in their 
own province, and frequently cannot speak the dialect of those they rule over ; in con- 
sequence an interpreter always forms part of their train. The military officers, on the 
contrary, are commonly appointed to command in their own provinces, perhaps that 
they may fight the more bravely, since it is " pro aris et focis," or as Joab said, " let us 
play the men for our people, and for the cities of our God." 



JOURNAL AT CHANG-CHOW. 221 

umbrella, and so on. This man was of moderate size, not stout, 
of a cheerful expression of countenance, extremely active, and 
almost fussy in his manners. There was quite a specimen of 
Chinese etiquette on his entrance. The other two rose up, bowed, 
and begged him to be seated ; he in like manner bowed, and beg- 
ged them to be seated. They bowed again, and all got ready to 
sit down, but no one would sit down first ; after standing and 
looking at each other till I could not refrain from a smile, they all 
sat down together. It was then the old scene over again, who 
we were, why we came, what we wanted, and the advice to be 
off, it was against the law for us to come, &c. We replied we 
could not go, for we wanted to see the city. This they said could 
not be allowed without the consent of the chief local magistrate, 
who had been sent for, and for whom it was necessary to wait. 

In the mean time the attendants got their pipes ready for a 
smoke, and the Tartar officer who sat next me, and appeared the 
most collected and cool of the whole of them, very politely offered 
me his. I begged leave to decline, whereupon he took a few 
whiffs in a very good humor, and presently with a graceful bow 
went out, and we saw him no more. The little fussy officer 
smoked a good deal, making frequent remarks to the first one, to 
which he responded briefly but politely. While waiting for the 
local magistrate, another gold-buttoned officer, who spoke the broad 
Pekin dialect, and had a hard, coarse, cunning face, and an opake 
white-buttoned officer with a very ordinary cast of countenance, 
came in. They smoked and talked, and Mr. Abeel gave each of 
them a tract, which they received very politely. The crowd at 
the door was now large, and as the officers' attendants, and even 
the officers themselves, had very little command over them, it was 
evident they were becoming uneasy. While thus engaged, in 
came, or rather rushed, the local magistrate. He was a tall, stout 
man, wore a gold button, and was a good deal excited. He was 
quite rude at first, did not salute us at all, and scarcely bowed to 
the five officers already present, but began in a loud blustering 
tone to declaim about the impropriety of our coming to Chang- 
Chow, of its being contrary to the treaty, and that we must depart 
immediately. Mr. Abeel remarked mildly, but firmly, that though 
the treaty allowed foreigners to trade at only five ports, it did not 
forbid their going elsewhere ; that we were Americans ; that we 
were well-meaning persons, who did not come to trade, but to look 
around, see the country, cultivate friendly feelings, and do good. 
The old man quite altered his tone, " Oh ! I know that you are 
men of politeness, we are not afraid of you ; but if you come, 
others will make it a precedent. You are Americans, and the 
Americans and the Chinese are all the same as so many brothers." 
He then gave us quite a rhapsody on the Americans. He had 
been to Canton, knew them well, and greatly esteemed them, and 
wished to have them always for friends; "Well," said Mr. A., 
"this is a strange way to treat your friends and brothers. We 



222 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

come to see you, and you turn us away without allowing us to be- 
come acquainted with you ; as to our coming being a precedent 
for others, they will come, whether you wish it or not, and it is 
better to have ' men of politeness' come first, rather than others." 
This puzzled the old man, and he did not know how to answer 
it. At last he proposed to us not to stay inside the city, but to go 
on board a boat, and spend the night on the river. He said he 
was afraid the crowd would rob, or ill-treat us. We said we had 
no fears, and were willing to risk that. He then said, he feared the 
crowd would quarrel among themselves ; but we said, no ! they 
were not given to quarrelling, and we did not think them such 
fools as to do that. He then said the house we were in was pre-en- 
gaged for some stranger of distinction, which was a most palpable 
lie, and if we wished to occupy it, we must draw up a petition to 
him for that purpose. This would take some time, and he thought, 
therefore, we had better go on board the boat. He would find a 
very good one for us, would send us down in chairs, would give us 
a guard during the night, and in the morning would send chairs 
and an officer to take us all round the city, wherever we wished 
to go. We saw that he felt anxious, and as it would be really 
more comfortable to spend the night in a boat than where we were, 
we almost concluded to accept the offer, but hesitated for fear all 
this should be only a scheme to float us off during the night. It 
was amusing to observe how he answered this, " Oh, no, not at all ;" 
and he put one hand on his own heart, and one on Mr. Abeel's, 
(who was the speaker all this time, as my own slight knowledge 
of the language did not qualify me for saying anything,) and de- 
clared that he was sincere, "Let there be confidence between 
friends." Tea was now brought in, and he poured out a cup full, 
and emptied it into three cups, drinking one himself, and giving 
one to Mr. A., and one to myself. We drank a cup all around, 
and to his great gratification accepted of his offer. It was now 
nearly dark. They had our luggage sent down to the boat, had 
chairs brought to the door, and escorted us down to the water-side. 
We were carried through several streets, one of which was covered 
over with yellow and red cloth, and ornamented with numerous 
lighted lanterns of all sizes, shapes, and colors. It was a celebra- 
tion for the continuance of peace, and a return of health. We 
were told on the following day, that the cholera has prevailed this 
summer to a frightful extent in Chang-Chow, as many as two hun- 
dred persons sometimes dying of it in a single day. 

A boat was speedily selected, of tolerably large size, though not 
the cleanest or most comfortable I have ever seen, and we duly 
deposited ourselves therein. The local magistrate then called the 
owner of the boat, who went and knelt down on the ground before 
him, and received his orders to treat us well, and to suffer us to 
want for nothing. The officers then all went away, and as it was 
growing late, and we were heartily tired, we prepared for rest. 
But before we had lain down, who should come in but the inter- 



JOURNAL AT CHANG-CHOW. 223 

preter ; he came from the local magistrate to beg us to go away 
that night. The Yo-tae, or highest officer of the place, had said 
that we must not remain. We laughed, and told him this was 
ridiculous, that the local magistrate had given us his word and 
honor that we should stay, had put his hand on his heart, and told 
us there must be confidence between friends, and was this the way 
to show it ? The interpreter was a shrewd, sensible man, and 
seeing we had the best of the argument, and were disposed to 
maintain it, did not press the matter. He laughed in his peculiar 
manner, and saying that he would come early in the morning to 
accompany us around, he departed, and we lay down to sleep. 

Thursday, Oct. 5. The morning being bright and pleasant, we 
started for a walk before breakfast, and the lower bridge being 
hard-by the place where our boat was anchored, we went there 
first. It is built on twenty-five piles of stone about thirty feet 
apart, and perhaps twenty feet in height, above the surface of the 
water. Large round beams are laid from pile to pile, and smaller 
ones across in the simplest and rudest manner : these are then 
covered with earth, and the upper part is paved with bricks or 
stone. One would suppose that the work had been assigned to a 
number of different persons, and that each had executed his part 
in such manner as best suited his own fancy, there being no regu- 
larity in the paving ; bricks and stone were intermingled in the 
most confused manner, and the railing was sometimes of wood, 
and sometimes of stone. The length of some of the stones used 
in paving the bridge was very remarkable ; some of them were 
eight, others eleven, others fourteen, and three of them eighteen 
paces each, in length, so that these last must have been about, 
forty-five feet long, and two or three broad. They were of un- 
hewn granite, but from the constant crowd of passengers for a 
hundred years or more,* were worn quite smooth. The bridge 
averages eight or ten feet in width, and about one-half its length 
on either side was occupied by shops in which various articles, 
principally eatables, were exposed for sale. I may remark here 
that the short account of this city contained in the work of Abbe 
Grosier, on China, which is compiled from the memoirs of the Jes- 
uit missionaries, contains several mistakes. The work referred to 
speaks of but one bridge, whereas, there are two ; it gives that one 
bridge thirty-six arches, whereas there are but twenty-five, and 
they are not, in any sense of the word, arches, being simply tim- 
bers laid from pier to pier. It also speaks of the " two ranges of 
shops furnished with the most precious things of China, and the 
rarest merchandises of foreign lands." If this account were true in 
the days when the Jesuits Avent through the land with the utmost 
freedom, it is not so now, for the articles we saw in these shops 
were of the commonest and coarsest kind. It also says, that since 
" the tides reach regularly to Chang-Chow, this place has become 

* We did not learn when the bridge was built— but the natives told us it was re- 
paired in the time of Kang-he, more than one hundred years ago. 



224 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

the resort of a multitude of vessels, by means of which a com- 
merce is held with Amoy, Pow-hou, and Formosa, and from hence 
depart all the Chinese who go to traffic at the Philippine islands :" 
— all this is to be taken with large allowance. The tide does reach 
Chang-Chow, but even at high tide, only the smallest vessels can 
come up so far — and when the tide is out, a common whaleboat 
is in danger of grounding. I take it for granted, therefore, that 
no vessels go from this city, either to Formosa or the Philippine 
islands ; and certainly, though there are a goodly number of small 
boats in the river, there are no vessels there fitted to encounter a 
sea voyage. From Amoy vessels do go to all the parts mentioned 
above, and to many others, and the goods they bring back are 
conveyed in smaller vessels to the city of Chang-Chow ; but the 
statements just referred to (see Grosier's "La Chine," vol. 1, p. 96,) 
are not sanctioned by what we saw. If the accounts the Jesuits 
have given of other cities of the empire, are equally defective and 
erroneous, we have small reason to thank them for their contribu- 
tions to our stock of knowledge of China. The reader of Abbe 
Grosier will not find one of the particulars of the following account 
in his work. 

There were many persons passing and repassing, as we crossed 
the bridge, and the various odors that filled the air were not the 
most agreeable. A person who wishes to live among the Chinese, 
and in daily contact with them, will do well to ponder the advice 
given by Sir Astley Cooper to a young man who wished to attend 
lectures on Anatomy and dissection. " The first thing you must 
learn, sir, is to disregard your nose." Having crossed the bridge, 
and passed through a village at the end of it, we went along the 
southern bank of the river to the second bridge, which is about a 
mile from the first, and similarly constructed. On coming to it, 
our guides pointed a little further, and told us there was a temple 
there worth seeing. We accordingly kept on, and were soon well 
repaid for our additional walk, by a sight of one of the oldest 
buildings I have ever seen. It was a temple said to have been 
built in the Suy dynasty, about twelve hundred years ago. The 
various gateways and small buildings usually found in. front of 
Chinese temples, were decayed and in ruins. Two pools on either 
side of the main entrance, were covered with the broad-leaved 
water-lily. The main building, which is of wood, is very high, 
and every pillar, board, stone, and tile, bore the marks of ex- 
treme age. On going in, we were utterly astonished. Seven 
gigantic images, in sitting or standing postures, gilded and 
painted, but faded and dusty, and tarnished with age, were ar- 
ranged across the middle of the temple ; while on either side was 
a row of fifteen Chinese worthies, either sitting or standing, and as 
large as life. Behind the seven first images were three others : 
the very smallest of the ten was at least eight feet in height, while 
the largest, if they had been standing, would have been fifteen or 
eighteen. An immense drum occupied one corner of the room, 



JOURNAL AT CHANG-CHOW. 245 

and a bell another. The roof was most curiously composed of 
carved wood, and inscriptions in various styles of Chinese writing 
were painted, and gilded, and carved on the pillars, walls, 
ceiling, and tablets of the temple. It had been repaired in 
Kang-he's time, though it was now in a sad state from age and 
neglect. It was sickening to look on the gloomy monsters whom 
this people worship as their gods, and to witness the ingenuity and 
expense lavished on these dumb idols, and to think of the dreadful 
degradation of the people that can worship such w T orks of their own 
hands. Yet it is also cheering to think that their superstitions 
are old, and many of them seem almost ready to vanish away. 
Not a great many new temples are built, and those already exist- 
ing are often in very poor repair. The people appear to have little 
reverence for their idols, and their worship consists of little else 
than a heartless round of unmeaning ceremonies. Oh, for that 
time when idols shall be utterly abolished ! 

From the main temple, we went to a small side building, which 
contained a single idol, standing, with one hand folded on the 
breast, and the other hanging open by the side. I got up on the 
pedestal, which was three feet high, and reaching with my um- 
brella, could barely touch the hand that was laid across the breast. 
The open hand was two feet long, and the whole image could 
have been little less than twenty feet high. It was cut out of one 
solid rock, which formerly occupied this spot ; without removing 
it, they hewed out the image and erected the house over it. We 
returned to the main building, and standing directly in front of the 
images there, Mr. Abeel addressed the crowd in their own lan- 
guage, on the folly of worshipping idols that could neither see, nor 
hear, nor speak ; telling them, also, of the way of life, through 
Jesus Christ. About three hundred persons were present, many 
of whom listened with attention ; some questions were asked, and 
they assented very freely to the truth of what was told them. 
While thus engaged, we were surprised by a visit from the inter- 
preter, who had gone down to the boat to see us, and finding we 
had strolled away, had followed us here, wondering why we had 
gone off without waiting for the chairs. He was extremely polite, 
and accompanied us across the second bridge, and back to our 
boat. After breakfast, we had a visit from the little fussy officer. 
He had a great many questions to ask about our modes of writing, 
articles of food, clothing, &c, all of which were new to him. He 
expressed a great deal of surprise when he learned that our sur- 
names are frequently of two, three, and even four syllables. The 
Chinese surname has rarely more than one. 

Breakfast being over, we entered the chairs provided for us. and 
being escorted by the interpreter, and two or three of the officers, 
proceeded through the city. We were carried through several 
streets, some of which were narrow and offensively filthy, but 
many of them were wide, i. e. for a Chinese city, say eight, ten, 
and even twelve feet, and lined with pretty good-looking houses. 
15 



226 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

The furniture shops, and a few of the clothing establishments 
looked very well. We passed several carpenters' and shoemakers' 
shops, apothecaries' shops, and book-stores ; at the doors of the 
latter stood large cards with sze shoo, woo King, Tsi en tsze wan, 
the Four Books, the Five Classics, the Thousand Character Classic. 
&c, in staring capitals, reminding us of similar displays in the 
streets of our own cities. We also passed through several mar- 
kets well supplied with very fat 'pork, dried fish, poultry, and vege- 
tables in abundance, though not in great variety. There were 
shaddocks, large persimmons, pine-apples, pears, plantains, sweet 
potatoes, sugar-cane, radishes, &c. <fcc. Crowds followed us as 
usual, and we had no reason to complain for want of attention. 
The word hwan hwanna! (foreigners !) uttered by every one who 
saw us, was the signal for all those through whose quarters we pass- 
ed, to leave their work and gaze upon the newly-arrived visitors. 

We were carried to the north-west corner of the city, and pres- 
ently found ourselves in an open space with rising ground be- 
yond, and a very large temple directly in front. It was built in 
the Tang dynasty, from nine hundred to twelve hundred years 
ago, and bore the marks of age, though in much better repair than 
the one we had previously visited. The scene presented when 
the doors were thrown open and we entered, was quite unexpect- 
ed. Eight gigantic figures, even larger than those we had previ- 
ously seen, were arranged across the temple. Some of them 
seemed almost to support its high roof on their heads: thirty-six 
Chinese sages occupied either side, in rows of eighteen each. The 
roof of the temple was constructed in the most elaborate manner, 
and was supported by several noble wooden pillars. The most 
curious things we saw, were a couple of large lockers or cupboards, 
closed and locked. They were about eight feet square and two 
feet deep, and their contents were unknown. The people all de- 
clared most seriously that they had not been opened for years, and 
if they should be opened, death would surely come out in some 
terrible form, or some dreadful plague would visit the people. 

The grounds of the temple were quite extensive, and numbers 
of houses for the residence of the priests, and the entertainment 
of strangers, were scattered around. Some of them were falling 
to pieces through very age. Behind the main building we were 
shown a smaller one, dedicated to Choo-foo-tsze, the celebrated 
commentator on the Four Books. He was a native of An hwuy 
province, but had been for some time the prefect or chief ruler at 
•Chang-Chow. His house, which is in the centre of the city, and 
is quite large and high, was pointed out ; and we were told, that 
when built, the main beam of the roof was suspended in the air. 
He declared that if any unfaithful or wicked ruler ever entered 
the house, the beam would fall and crush him, but since his time, 
the beam has very considerately taken its proper place in the wall. 

Behind the temple the ground rose steeply, and three of its sum- 
mits were crowned with little open towers. We climbed up in 



JOURNAL AT CHANG-CHOW. 227 

the hot sun, expecting to obtain an extended prospect, but the 
scene that met our eyes greatly transcended our expectations. 
Fancy an amphitheatre thirty miles in length by twenty in 
breadth, hemmed in on all sides by steep, bare, pointed hills, a 
river running through the plain, an immense city at our feet, 
with fields of rice and sugar-cane, noble trees and numerous vil- 
lages stretching away in every direction. It was grand and beau- 
tiful above every conception I had ever formed of Chinese scenery. 
The eye wandered over that immense plain, and returned again 
and again to the contemplation of particular points, till we were 
almost wearied by the sight of so much magnificence : and when 
we came to particulars, the wonder was increased rather than di- 
minished. Beneath us lay the city. We could trace its walls in 
nearly every direction. It would have been nearly square, had 
not the southern wall curved outwards from following the course 
of the river. It was very closely built, as almost all Chinese cities 
are, and had a vast number of large trees in every part, within 
and around. On inquiring the number of inhabitants, our guide 
answered, that in the last dynasty it had numbered seven hun- 
dred thousand souls, and now there were more. He thought 
there were a million of people within the walls. This is probably a 
large estimate, though it is the one commonly given by the Chinese: 
— yet allowing only half their estimate, how large a number is 
even that ! The villages around also attracted our attention, and 
I tried to count them, but after enumerating thirty-nine of large 
size, distinctly visible, in less than half the field before us, I gave 
over the attempt. It is certainly not going too far to say, that in 
that plain, there are at least one hundred villages ; some of them 
ma)^ be small, but many of them would number their hundreds 
and even thousands of inhabitants. Oh, what a field for missions 
is here, if the country were but open, and the churches ready to 
enter it ! How many, many souls there were beneath our eyes, 
all ignorant of the true God, and of the way of life. The prospect 
before us was surprisingly beautiful, but alas, for those who dwell 
amidst those fair scenes, where 

" Every prospect pleases, and only man is vile !" 

Oh, how often does the thought come across the missionary's 
mind in China, " multitudes, multitudes !" but alas, they are 
scattered, as sheep having no shepherd. Oh, that Christians 
could but see them, and have compassion upon them. Then 
would they pray the Lord of the harvest to send forth more labor- 
ers into his harvest, for the harvest truly is plenteous, but the 
laborers are few. This country will yet be opened. The doors 
have already begun to unclose, and no human power is able to 
shut them again. What though they move but slowly, and grate 
harshly as they turn on their rusty hinges, they move none the 
less surely for all that ; and the field that is opened to us, by the 
first unclosing, is so vast that our numbers are quite insufficient 



228 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE 

to occupy it. What then will be the case when the whole coun- 
try is thrown open ? When we have properly occupied the five 
ports now open, and are ready to extend our efforts beyond, it 
will be time enough to wish for a larger field. Doubtless God 
will give us a larger field before we are ready to enter on it. 

We went back to our boats as we came, except that we walked 
through several of the streets, much to the discomfort of our leader, 
who did not fancy walking through the narrow, crowded streets, 
when he might as easily have rode. We went into several shops, 
and priced several articles, but saw nothing we cared to buy ex- 
cept some lanterns, and some excellent sugar-house molasses. 
The goods were commonly plain and coarse, and the showy ones 
were unsubstantial. Beautiful as the city looked from a distance, 
it did not so well bear close inspection. I have seen but little in 
China that does. The streets were rather wider and many of 
them were cleaner, than those seen in the Chinese cities hitherto 
visited by foreigners, though this is not saying much. Most of 
the houses had wooden fronts, and apparently brick or plaster 
walls ; very few were floored : they commonly have only the 
ground, or, at best, tiles under their feet, and the furniture of a 
great majority of their houses is most inferior in kind, and scanty 
in quantity. Over the door of nearly every house there was an 
open-mouthed tiger painted. The Chinese are certainly as great 
strangers to the virtue of cleanliness, as any people so far advanced 
in civilization as they really are ; it will require a long training to 
give them those habits of neatness and order requisite to real com- 
fort. I know these are disagreeable truths to those fond of ro- 
mance, but the missionary to the Chinese must lay aside many 
romantic ideas, and accustom himself to many things unpleasant, 
and to some that are almost revolting to his finer feelings. The 
main thing is, neither to suffer himself to be so disgusted with 
their deficiencies as to cease compassionating them, nor to sink to 
their low level, when he ought rather to bring them up to his own 
standard. 

After dinner we went up in a boat some distance above the city, 
and walked among the rice-grounds and sugar-canes. How much 
the latter reminded me of the luxuriant corn-fields of Maryland ! 
We saw several men watering the rice-grounds by means of the 
chain pump, which is worked by the foot, and is described in 
Davis's China, ch. 19. This may be the same contrivance that 
was used in Egypt, and is referred to in the Scriptures : " thou 
sowedst thy seed, and wateredst it with thy foot as a garden of 
herbs ;" Deut. xi. 10. The people gathered around us, and Mr. A. 
addressed them in two different places. Some of them attended 
carefully, but most of them seemed more disposed to examine our 
dress than to listen to religious discourse. 

We returned to our boat, and concluded to go in her to Cho-bey 
at the change of the tide. We had seen nearly all we wanted at 
Chang-Chow, and had succeeded in our object in visiting the city, 



JOURNAL AT CHANG-CHOW. 229 

quite as well as could have been expected. Our object, it will be 
remembered, was not so much to distribute tracts,* and perform 
direct missionary labor, as it was to see the country, obtain infor- 
mation respecting the people, and learn what prospect there was 
for missionary labors among them. On this last point, some re- 
marks will be found in the sequel. 

The boat in which we had lodged was owned by an old man 
and his wife. She was above seventy years old, and according to 
the universal custom in the Fuhkeen province, wore flowers, 
which in their freshness and bloom, contrasted strangely with her 
gray hairs. On inquiring whether infanticide were common in 
this region or not, she replied, that it was on shore, though not 
among the people who live in the boats. Hearing a little child 
cry, and asking whose it was, she said that it was a little girl 
which she had found exposed on the banks of the river, and had 
taken to bring up. This w T as the fourth child she had rescued 
after they had been exposed by their parents, but the three previ- 
ous ones had died before growing up. The old woman had a little 
grandson, nine or ten years old, and said she meant to bring up 
the little girl she now had, for his wife. 

Friday, October 6. Arrived at Cho-bey before daylight, and soon 
after sunrise went ashore to see the place. It is a walled town, 
but the part within the walls is by no means so extensive as that 
without. Here, as elsewhere, crowds followed us, noisier too. and 
ruder than those of Chang-Chow, though they offered us no man- 
ner of insult, and most readily allowed us to pass wherever we 
chose. We found it quite a large and populous place, stretching 
at least a mile along the shore, and I know not how far back from 
the river. It is a busy, bustling place of trade ; the shops were 
crowded with goods, commonly of a very coarse quality, and the 
streets thronged with people. For dirt and filth, it excels every 
other place I have seen, and some of the streets were actually 
sickening. Several persons who had been to Amoy, recognized 
Mr. A., and one of them, who had been a patient of Dr. Cum- 
ming's at Ku-lang-su, volunteered to guide us through the streets, 
which are so narrow, from three to twelve feet wide, and so 
crooked, that Ave should have found it difficult to proceed alone. 
The number of fresh fish in the markets was really surprising. 
The river is here not one-fourth of a mile wide, and hardly six 
feet deep, and yet as far as we could learn, it supplies the whole 
of the teeming population of both its banks, including those of the 
cities of Chang-Chow, Cho-bey, and Haeteng. Here we saw im- 
mense numbers of fine large fish, fresh from the water, and excel- 
lent in flavor, as we proved by experiment. After walking till we 
were tired, we stopped in front of an idol temple, and Mr. A. ad- 

* I should have mentioned that the officers to whom we gave the tracts on our first 
arrival, told us afterwards that they had read them carefully, and highly approved of 
their doctrines. Part of this is, doubtless, mere Chinese politeness, but the perusal of 
the tracts may, with God's blessing, lead them to the truth. 



230 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

dressed the crowd that gathered around us. They were quite at- 
tentive, and the questions asked by several of them, showed that 
they understood what was spoken to them. 

Being heartily tired, and having no wish to return to the crowded 
streets of Cho-bey, we started, after breakfast, for Haeteng. The 
tide was against us. but two men rowed us there, a distance of 
four or five miles for one hundred cash, or about nine cents. It 
was about eleven o'clock when we reached Haeteng, and having se- 
cured a boat to convey us to Amoy in the afternoon, we started 
for a walk. The city is surrounded by a high wall, which on the 
side next the river is double. The outer wall ran close alongside 
of the little stream where our boat was anchored, and when we 
entered the gates we found a large space between the outer and 
inner walls, almost wholly occupied by gardens and rice-grounds. 
Ascending the outer wall, we walked some distance, and as there 
were but few houses, we were not annoyed by a crowd. Presently 
the outer wall came right against the inner one, which was some 
four or six feet higher, and to avoid going round some distance we 
climbed over it, and walked along the ramparts. The wall is 
about fifteen feet high, and five feet thick, and is built of stone, 
but did not appear strong. The plain outside of the wall was ex- 
tensive, and was occupied by rice-grounds ; there were no villages 
within a mile or two of the side where we stood, but some distance 
off, we could see several of large size. The city itself we could 
not see, there being so many trees within the walls as quite to 
prevent our seeing where most of the houses lay. After walking 
a quarter of a mile along the wall, we went down looking into a 
new and neat temple, and strolled through several of the streets. 
They were wider and far neater than any we had seen elsewhere, 
but we saw very few people. Perhaps it should be said, compara- 
tively few, for we had become so accustomed to crowds, that a 
hundred persons behind us seemed quite a small assemblage. In 
the course of our walk we saw a couple of stages, on which some 
actors in gaudy dresses were performing games for the amusement 
of the audience. Their music was anything but agreeable, but 
we did not stop to witness the performances, «as we found that we 
were attracting more attention than the players. It was now 
noon, the sun was hot, we had been wearied at Cho-bey in the 
morning, besides being almost overpowered by the excitement of 
the two previous days, and the wind being ahead, it was impor- 
tant to secure the favorable tide, which was now making for Amoy. 
Accordingly we turned our faces homeward, and at sunset re-en- 
tered our houses in Ku-lang-su ; glad and thankful for the won- 
derful things we had seen, the favors received, and the mercies 
enjoyed during our three days' excursion. 

In looking back over this excursion, and over the whole of my 
voyage, there are several points that deserve to be prominently 
brought forwar 1 ; and though my journal is already long, a few 
remarks on each will not be out of place. 



JOURNAL AT AMOY. 231 

1. The attentive reader of this journal will have been struck 
with the frequent reference to the amazing populousness of the 
country ; but it is impossible to convey any adequate idea of the 
real state of the case. If the cities of Boston, New York, Phila- 
delphia and Baltimore were situated in a valley forty miles long, 
and ten or fifteen broad, and the whole intervening country were 
so thickly covered with villages that a man should never be out 
of sight of one or more of them, still the population of that valley 
would not be as great as is the population of that part of China, 
of which the preceding pages speak. At seven o'clock in the morn- 
ing we were at Amoy ; by two o'clock, p. m., we had passed 
Haeteng and Cho-bey, and were anchored at Chang-Chow. Here 
were four cities, any one of which would be a city of the first size 
in the United States, and around these four cities, there must, be 
at least two hundred villages and towns ; and this is not all. for 
within thirty miles of Amoy, in another direction, is the city of 
Tung-an, said to be twice as large as Amoy, with, I know not how 
many towns and villages in its neighborhood. The mind is over- 
whelmed to think of this immense population, numerous as the 
sand on the sea-shore, and all so closely crowded together, and so 
easily reached, by water communication, for in a boat you may 
go to any one of those places in less than a single day. If the 
country around each of the other ports is as populous, as we now 
know that around Amoy to be, and the probability, from all I can 
learn, is that it is quite as populous, then what fields are here for 
Christian effort ! I am astonished and confounded, and even, after 
what I have seen, can scarcely believe the half of what must be 
true respecting the multitudes of people who live in China, and 
the multitudes who are perfectly accessible to the efforts of the 
missionary. This leads me to remark, 

2. The facilities for access to the people. It is hard for one who 
has not been here in former times, rightly to appreciate this sub- 
ject. Two years ago, the protestant missionaries were confined to 
Canton and Macao, and in neither of these places were they al- 
lowed free access to the people, or those opportunities of social 
intercourse with them, that are indispensable to the full success 
of the missionary work. Now, how changed is the scene ! Here 
are four large cities, with innumerable villages around them, where 
we have free access to the people, without encountering the preju- 
dices that so hindered us at Canton and Macao. Around each of 
these four cities, there are many other large and populous cities, 
between which, and the cities to which foreigners may freely come, 
there is constant intercourse. It is true we are not allowed to go 
to these other cities. The government at Pekin still prohibits for- 
eigners from straying beyond certain limits. This was evident 
from the opposition we met from the officers at Chang-Chow. But 
it is impossible for this exclusive system to continue long. It has 
already received its death-blow, and everything conspires to hasten 
its fall. Foreigners will visit these interior cities, the people will 



232 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

see them and talk about them, and wonder why the government 
refuses to allow them to enter the country. The}" will come and 
see us at the ports already opened, they will be influenced by what 
they see and hear, and by the extension of commerce, and the oc- 
casional visits of those who go into the interior. Our visit to 
Chang-Chow will not soon be forgotten by the thousands who then, 
for the first time, saw a foreigner. Our being known as religious 
teachers, and being so respectfully treated by the officers, will have 
its influence ; and I do not despair of seeing the time when our 
missionaries shall have their station at Haetengand Chang-Chow, 
and Tung-an, and at the large cities around the other ports, just 
as freely as they now have at Amoy, and Ningpo and Shanghae. 
Yet, even if it should not be so, even if the door should remain 
closed against the personal operations of the missionary, longer 
than now seems probable, the way is abundantly open for the dis- 
tribution of religious books, and their dispersion into the interior 
of the country. Nothing is easier, had we the funds, and the 
books, than to send tracts in any quantities, ten, twenty, fifty miles 
into the interior, from any of the ports just opened ; and as soon 
as we have the men, and suitable tracts ready, we shall need 
printing-presses at each of those ports, solely to print religious 
books for the people. Verily, God hath done great things for us, 
whereof we are glad. The Church is bound to render to God 
hearty and constant thanks for the field, which, in his gracious 
providence, is thus thrown open before her. Let there be no more 
complaints that China is not open, and her people not accessible. 
China is open as widely as we can now desire, and so many of 
her people are accessible, that the Church will find it difficult, even 
if she put forth ten-fold the strength she has hitherto done, ade- 
quately to meet their wants. 

3. It has been strongly and repeatedly impressed upon my 
mind, from what I have lately seen, that to no country in the 
world will our Saviour's words, " to the poor the Gospel is 
preached," be found so applicable as to China. Many people look 
on China as it were some great mine of gold and jewels, where 
every man is clothed in silks and faring sumptuously every day ; 
but nothing can be further from the true state of the case. There 
are many wealthy men in China, and wherever the missionary 
goes, he will meet them, and associate with them. But the great 
mass of the people are poor, in the strictest sense of the term. It 
cannot but be so, where a country is so crowded with inhabitants, 
that there is sometimes hardly room to bury their dead out of their 
sight, the great majority of the people must be poor. You see it 
here, in the coarse clothing they wear, the food the)^ eat, the 
homes they inhabit, the furniture they use, and the wages they 
receive. You see it in the fact that their only coined money is so 
small that it requires twelve hundred to make a dollar, and happy 
is he who receives two hundred of these for his day's labor. Let 
the missionary whc comes to China, bear this in mind. The 



JOURNAL IN AMOT. 233 

brightest talents are needed in preaching to the poor, but espe- 
cially will he need the graces of humility and self-denial, of faith 
and of patience, in his intercourse with this people, and his efforts 
to instruct them. This is a point that admits of much enlarge- 
ment, both in proving the poverty of the people, if that be neces- 
sary, and in speaking of the qualifications necessary to one who 
labors among them. But a word to the wise and the thoughtful, 
is sufficient. 

4. It is a sad and melancholy thing to be obliged to refer so 
often as I have done to the prevalence of the use of opium in 
China. The number of vessels employed, and the amount of capi- 
tal embarked in the opium trade, have been slightly referred to in 
the preceding pages. At some other time I may give fuller state- 
ments on this subject ; but at present, all that need be added, is, 
that the half has not been told. The connivance of the Chinese 
officers, at the traffic, and the eagerness of the Chinese people to 
procure the drug, have also been referred to. I have only further 
to say, that wherever I have been in China, I have seen it used. 
In all the opium depots along the coast, it is of course freely used. 
At Amoy, " every man who can afford to buy it, uses it." In the 
little island of San-pan-shan, the only question the people asked 
of the Christian missionary, was, whether he had opium to sell, 
and there he saw the floor of the idol temple covered with the half- 
stupefied smokers of opium. While at Chang-Chow, one of the 
officers came on board the boat where we lodged, and while he 
was on board, I perceived the peculiar smell of opium, and look- 
ing down, saw two men smoking it in the hold beneath my feet. 
I have been made sick by the smell of it, in an opium house at 
Canton, and have held my breath as I passed the opium dens in 
Macao. I have walked on the steep hill-sides of Hong Kong, and 
there have seen common beggars, who dwelt " in cliffs of the val- 
leys, in caves of the earth, and in rocks" — and who were too poor 
to buy an opium pipe, smoking opium out of a little earthen vessel 
in which they had drilled a hole, that it might serve as a substi- 
tute for a pipe ! And what hope can there be for such a people ? 
Men of the world, honorable and upright men too, will sell them 
opium for money. The Chinese will buy it, let the emperor 
thunder against it as long as he chooses, and the smoker will use 
it, though it weakens his body, impairs his mind, stupefies his con- 
science, and renders him miserable when not under its influence. 
There is no help for them but in God. The use of opium in China 
will never be abolished, until a reformation, similar to the temper- 
ance reformation of America, commence among the people them- 
selves. And that reformation I fear will not commence, and cer- 
tainly will not be completed, till the religion of Christ takes deep 
root, and becomes the predominant power in China. Let Chris- 
tians, then, cry mightily unto God, in behalf of this ancient peo- 
ple. His hand is not shortened that it cannot save, nor his ear 
heavy that it cannot hear. 



234 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 



Hong Kong, October 16th, 1843. 

After getting back to Amoy on Friday, I spent part of that 
night and the next day in writing off the preceding account. A 
little vessel of some thirty tons burden, here called a Lorcha, be- 
ing about to sail for Macao and Hong Kong, I found Mr. Roberts 
had taken passage in her. As there was no prospect of a vessel 
soon for Hong Kong from Amoy, and as I was anxious to reach 
home soon, I concluded to take a passage in her too. Mr. Abeel 
did not want me to go so soon ; and certainly, although she prom- 
ised a safe and quick passage, there was every prospect of its be- 
ing an uncomfortable one, the vessel being so small, and likely to 
roll so much. No danger, however, was apprehended, and the 
price of passage, only twenty dollars, was an inducement. I should 
probably have had to pay forty or fifty dollars, besides waiting 
sometime, if I went in a ship. The Lorcha was manned by three 
Englishmen and four Chinese, had mat sails, and had recently 
come up from Macao against the monsoon. 

Monday at noon, though the wind was very high, we started. 
Soon got to the mouth of the harbor ; but there we found the wind 
so strong, and the sea so high, we were afraid to go out, and there- 
fore put back to wait for better weather. The wind abated dur- 
ing the night, and the next day, we started again, got to sea, and 
were fairly on our course. The wind was still strong, and the sea 
rough, but we went on finely, and in six hours were a long way 
off from Amo}^. Soon after dark, however, our rudder was broken 
by the violence of a wave that struck it. The rudders of all the 
Chinese built vessels are very large awkward things, and very apt to 
be broken. We found ourselves quite helpless, as we could not 
direct the vessel's course at all. Being quite dark, there was 
nothing we could do but heave the vessel to and let her drift till 
daylight. In so small a vessel, and in such a situation, I con- 
sidered it a little unsafe, and kept awake nearly all night, to see 
how she would behave. But though the wind and sea were 
strong and rough, she rode like a duck, and though rolling very 
much, took in little water. Mr. Roberts was very sea-sick. 

Wednesday morning, the weather continued clear but rough, 
and we found ourselves drifting along the coast. The men tried 
to make a new rudder with two bamboo poles, but it would not 
work. They then slept several hours, and tried to repair the bro- 
ken rudder ; but did it so awkwardly that it also was useless. 
They seemed disposed then to do nothing but wait for calmer 
weather. At this season of the year there was no prospect of the 
weather growing worse than it then was. I knew, also, that the 
course of the wind and current would cause us to drift down along 
the coast in sight of land as far as Pedro Branca, a rock forty-five 
miles from Hong Kong. After reaching that Kock, there would 
be danger of being driven out into the open China Sea ; but at 
the rate we supposed we were going, we did not expect to see Pe- 



RETURN TO HONG KONG. 235 

dro Branca for five or six days, and we were pretty sure in that 
time that the weather would moderate. 1 concluded, therefore, 
that there was no immediate cause of apprehension, but it was 
very unpleasant to think of spending so many days in that little 
rolling' damp place. Yet there seemed to be no help for it, and I 
tried to nerve my mind to bear it. A little spray occasionally 
dashed over us, and sometimes a few drops forced themselves 
through the windows, and made our sleeping place wet, but, alto- 
gether, it was very far superior to the long-boat. During Wednes- 
day night I found Mr. Roberts was a great deal alarmed. However, 
I was an older sailor than he, and my former " experience" now 
wrought " hope," so that I had little fear. 

Thursday we drifted on, gradually however edging off further 
from the land. One of the men had been along the coast fre- 
quently, and said he knew where we were, all the time. Accord- 
ing to his account, we were drifting at about thirty miles a day. 

Thursday night also Mr. Roberts was much alarmed, and I 
confess I did not myself like the idea of our getting out so far from 
land as we evidently were. However, I slept well, as I had done 
the night before. The weather too seemed to be a little better ; 
wind abating some, though the sea was still rough. 

Friday morning at daylight we could scarcely see the land, and 
by nine o'clock we were out of sight of it. Finding the men 
were disposed to do very little, I took the matter in hand, and rep- 
resenting the danger of being out at sea, urged the propriety of 
running the boat on shore if possible ; and if nothing better offered, 
of trying to go to Hong Kong by land. This stirred them up, and 
they agreed to try and repair the rudder a little better, and do 
something in that way if possible. We saw several fishing-boats 
going out to fish, a pretty sure sign that the fishermen anticipated 
a calm time. After a little while the men got their rudder repair- 
ed. She worked admirably, and we went on our course finely. 
" Thank God," said one of the men, " we shall see Pedro Branca to- 
night." This was before eleven o'clock, a. m. In half an hour or 
so, I said to the captain, "Is that an English or a Chinese vessel, 
away off there ?" — " Well, I was just a lookin ; oh, I 'spose it's a 
Chinese vessel." The mate looked at it steadfastly, " That ! that's 
Pedro Branca ! forty-five miles from Hong Kong !" So it was, we 
had drifted a hundred miles further than we thought, and had 
come altogether one hundred and sixty miles in less than three 
days ! How providential it was we got the rudder repaired at the 
time we did ! If we had not, the probability is we should on that 
day (Friday) have been in the China Sea ; and then almost our 
only hope would have been to have been picked up by some vessel. 
Truly goodness and mercy have followed me hitherto. 

Saturday morning at daylight we were within ten miles of 
Hong Kong. An American vessel was just before us. As soon 
as the men saw her, they said, " That's an American ship." " How 
do you know?" said I. " Oh, any one who's accust omed to vessels 



236 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

can almost always tell an American vessel, they always look so 
clean." The remark is one often made. 

We anchored at nine o'clock a. m. in Hong Kong harbor, and 
having breakfasted, and called the men into the cabin to render 
thanks to God for the goodness and mercy received on our voyage, 
we went ashore ; we were only one day longer in coming than 
we had expected to be, notwithstanding the loss of our rudder. 

Most of my friends in Hong Kong declared they never would 
go to sea with me, as the elements were leagued against me, and 
that I must consider myself as settled in Macao or Hong Kong. 
The ship we saw, which got in just before us, was the Zenobia. 
I did not get my letters till evening, and it kept me till bed-time 
to get through with all, — but oh, what news ! a beloved 
brother hopefully pious ; a donation of ten thousand dollars for 
China ; five new missionaries preparing for the same great field ! 
My heart was full. For hours after I went to bed I could not 
sleep. Oh how I thought of the past, the present and the future. 
I got up and walked about the room ; being " merry," I sang a 
hymn ; and knelt down to pray. Oh, it is worth a great deal to 
get such news, and so delightful after the unpleasant contrast of 
the week previous. 

Found the Hepburns had started about ten days before in a 
very fine vessel for Amoy ; was very glad to hear it, though I 
knew that with the winds they had had they could make little 
progress, and would have a dreadfully rough time. 

Sabbath (yesterday) I preached in the chapel here in the 
morning, and talked to the boys in Mr. Brown's school in the 
evening. 

To-day I meant to have gone to Macao, but not being able to 
get the specie on board the Zenobia safely deposited, I found it 
necessary to remain another day. Just about four o'clock, who 
should come in but Dr. and Mrs. Hepburn, driven back by the bad 
weather. They were far more surprised to see me than I to see 
them. They have had dreadful weather, and a rough time. 
Poor Mrs. H. was very sea-sick, but looks quite as well as when I 
left Macao. They will probably start in a few days to make a 
second effort. 

Macao, October 22d, 1843. The gale in which we lost our 
rudder in the Lorcha, and drifted so far, was quite terrific further 
south. The vessel in which the Hepburns were, had to put back 
with the loss of spars, sails, &c. ; several other vessels had also 
to put back, and this last week in Hong Kong, we heard that the 
vessel in which Mr. Medhurst and Mr. Milne were proceeding to 
Chusan, had lost her top-masts, had her captain swept overboard, 
and drowned, and was finally obliged to put into Manila in dis- 
tress. Mr. Milne, describing the gale, said that " for ten hours 
they expected nothing but death." 

This week I have had a regular attack of chill and fever, the 
first for thirteen years. It was brought on, I have no doubt 3 by 



RETURN TO MACAO. 237 

the exposure of the last six weeks. Last Thursday was the 
first day I have spent in bed from sickness, for more than eight 
years. 

How much reason I have for thankfulness in having been 
spared so long ! But a very little sickness would soon knock me 
up. My constitution is naturally so weak, that it takes me a long 
time to recover from even a short illness. But I felt very little 
anxiety on that score. It is a lonely thing to be sick in a strange 
land, but it leads one closer to the best and the all-present friend. 

It is Saturday night ! everything is quiet, except an occasional 
sound of music, reminding me of the notes of a French horn I 
once heard on a canal boat, near Pittsburgh. It was a little be- 
fore daylight I heard them ; but it was far, far away, and long, 
long ago. Now ! there goes a fruiterer, beating a couple of bam- 
boo sticks together. You never hear such sounds, so sharp and 
clear, in the United States. The sound of music transported me 
away, but the sharp clicking of the huckster's sticks reminded me 
again that " I am a stranger in the earth." 

October 24th. How sad and mysterious oftentimes are the dis- 
pensations of Providence. I must close my journal with the death 
of the Rev. Mr. Dyer, who has been so long engaged in preparing 
Chinese metal type. He came up here in July with the other mis- 
sionaries of the London Missionary Society, to attend a missionary 
meeting ordered by their society in Hong Kong. After transacting 
all the business required, he went to Canton to see the place, and was 
there taken with the disease that has prevailed so fearfully in 
Hong Kong this year. He began to recover, took his passage in 
a vessel going to Singapore, and came down to Hong Kong ; I saw 
him there on board his ship, the day I got back from Amoy. He 
was recovering rapidly. The vessel came over here, and was un- 
expectedly detained several days ; he had a relapse, was brought 
ashore to our house, and died this morning at ten o'clock. Yes- 
terday his mind was wandering all day, but this morning he was 
sensible, knew us all, ■ knew he was dying, said he felt " very 
happy," and often repeated " sweet Jesus, sweet Jesus." I was 
with him when he died. His spirit seemed to depart with scarcely 
a struggle. He had been out in this region seventeen years, and 
there is no one who can take the place he occupied.^ He has left 
a wife and four children. Humanly speaking, his death is a 
very great loss. He was a man of piety and prayer, and of a most 
Catholic spirit. 

Thus we go : one after another is called to his long home. In 
one respect, the death of these servants of God is even cheering. 
Their work is finished, and thus another part of the great work 
God has to do on earth is accomplished. It will not have to be 
done again. . . . 



238 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

Macao, October 26th, 1843. 
My Dear Father — 

.... In your letter of April 5th. 1843, you express a wish for 
some more definite information respecting Morrison's translation 
of the Bible, and also the various tracts that have been published 
by the missionaries. Some of my previous letters had character- 
ized Dr. Morrison's translation as being a very»imperfect one, and 
unintelligible to the Chinese. You remark, "If Morrison's Trans- 
lation be so imperfect, when are we to have a better ? Of his 
honesty no one entertains a doubt. His long service for the Com- 
pany, and that to their satisfaction, shows his ability as a Chinese 
scholar. Now, when are we to get a superior to him as a Chinese 
scholar ?" 

These suggestions appear to have force, and I do not wonder 
that the committee were surprised to hear a Translation by such 
a man characterized as exceedingly imperfect. But there are 
several considerations that will, I think, remove much of the sur- 
prise, and show that, in the nature of things, his translation must 
be very defective, and that a better one may reasonably soon be 
expected. 

It must be borne in mind that Dr. Morrison was the first Prot- 
estant missionary who commenced the study of Chinese. When 
he commenced it, there were no facilities whatever for the study. 
He had to make his own Grammar, and his own Dictionary. He 
had to study out every phrase and form for himself and by 
himself. Now, Dr. Morrison was a man of sound mind and pa- 
tient industry, but no one considers him a man of exalted genius. 
He could not run through a language, and thoroughly apprehend 
its whole spirit, in the compass of a few years ; still less can it be 
supposed, that he could speedily master the Chinese language, the 
most difficult of all languages, when he was utterly unprovided 
with helps for its acquisition. He was in the service of the Com- 
pany, and perhaps one of the most profitable servants they ever 
had ; yet his service for them, after a while, could have little 
benefit on his knowledge of Chinese as far as the translation of 
Scripture was concerned. The phrases, and idioms, and general 
language he used in their service, were not the kind wanted in 
translating the Scripture. The man who is constantly talking 
about dollars and cents, and quarrelling, as he was often obliged 
to do, with the Chinese, may soon attain a great deal of fluency 
in language appropriate to such subjects, but very unsuitable for 
a version of the oracles of God. Add to this, that his time was so 
constantly employed, first, in preparation of his Dictionary, and, 
second, in the Company's service, and what is most important of 
all, that his version of the Scriptures was not made after he had 
fully acquired the Chinese language, but while he was yet learn- 
ing it, and you will see abundant reasons for supposing, a priori, 
that it must prove a defective one. He commenced it in less than 



LETTERS. 239 

five years after he first began to study Chinese; printed the Acts 
in 1810, only three years after his arrival in China ; prosecuted 
his translation, "with many an aching head from his duties as 
translator to the Company," and finished it in 1819. The priming 
of it was finished in 1822. And his subsequent revisions and cor- 
rections were very, very slight indeed. Here, then, is the state of 
the case: — Dr. Morrison, without any assistance, but by his own 
unaided efforts, commenced and prosecuted the study of the Chi- 
nese. At a very early period in his studies, he began to translate 
and print the Scriptures. He carried on his translation when oc- 
cupied with a load of other business ; and he finished it before he 
had half finished his own missionary life. The time he actually 
spent in translation and revision was but twelve years. He had 
Dr. Milne's help part of the time, for part of the work ; but how is 
it possible that so great a work as the translation of the Bible, 
made into so difficult a language as the Chinese, by so few men, 
with, in the nature of the case, such limited acquaintance of the 
languages into which and from which they translated, while each 
of them had so many other cares and duties pressing on them, 
should be otherwise than very defective and imperfect 1 The 
wonder is that they accomplished so much as they did ; but I am 
more and more convinced that Dr. Morrison's fame must rest on 
his Dictionary, rather than on his Translation of the Scriptures. 

You refer to the testimony given by Messrs. Evans, Dyer, and 
Kidd, in favor of Morrison's and against Medhurst's Translation. 
This is a melancholy subject to refer to. All three of these men 
are now deceased. Mr. Dyer was one of the excellent of the 
earth, and went to his rest rejoicing, but two days ago. He died 
in this house ; and from the desk where I now write, I could hear 
him exclaim, ere he departed, "Sweet Jesus, sweet Jesus." But 
though he was a good man, and full of faith, he was not in all 
respects well qualified to judge of such a matter 

The new version is confessedly very imperfect ; but at a late 
meeting of most of the Protestant missionaries in China, it was 
voted unanimously, Mr. Dyer among them, that the last version 
was much superior to any preceding one. Thus the matter now 
stands in regard to versions already made. 

While the London Missionary Society missionaries were in Hong 
Kong, they held, in conjunction with all the then missionaries 
there, being altogether about three-fourths of all the missionaries 
in China, a convention, to devise measures for a new translation. 
I attended one or two of the meetings, and have seen the proceed- 
ings of all, — the most of which I approve of. The plan is, to take 
up the New Testament first ; divide it into five portions, and assign 
one to each station where there are missionaries competent to the 
task. After each station has finished its portion, it is to send a 
copy to every other station. After they have all revised each 
other's work, one person is to be selected from each station ; these 
are to .meet together, and revise and publish the whole. The 



240 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

stations are, 1. Ningopo and Shanghai; 2. Fuhchow ; 3. Amoy, 
4. Hong Kong and Canton ; 5. Bankok. It is supposed that sev- 
eral years, say four or five, will be required to complete the work. 
I have my fears that the plan will be found quite too complicated, 
and that, from the distance of the stations from each other, it will 
not work very well ; while the very different qualifications of the 
persons at the different stations will produce a work of very un- 
equal merit in its parts. But perhaps it is the best plan that could 
well be devised. 

In regard to the tracts, many of the remarks made on the 
translation of Morrison's Bible are equally applicable to them. 
They have been made in the early stages of the missionaries' 
studies. One or two of Medhurst's are very good, and one or two 
of Milne's. The Two Friends, by the latter, is perhaps the best 
Chinese tract we have, and it is generally understood. Yet only 
a short time ago, my Chinese teacher, who has been associating 
with foreigners for ten years, and understands our modes of 
thought very well, while reading it came to a sentence which 
puzzled him. At last he said, " Oh, now I understand it, but I 
don't think that a Chinese who is unacquainted with the foreign- 
ers would." Indeed I do not think the true nature of the Chinese 
language is yet understood by most of those who study it. It is 
common to call it a monosyllabic language. It is no more mono- 
syllabic than our good old Saxon English : for there are hundreds 
and thousands of dissyllables in Chinese, and the want of a 
proper knowledge of these, is one of the great defects in our ac- 
quaintance with the language. Mr. Medhurst was studying it 
before I was born ; and yet he told me not long ago, that he was 
often puzzled even yet by the compound characters. 

There is no foreigner living perfectly acquainted with the lan- 
guage ; and even those who speak it really very well, often make 
mistakes in writing it, and use phrases and idioms that a Chinese 
never uses and does not understand. A learned man among the 
Chinese, may be able to pick some sense out of their writings ; 
but a common man, and the mass of our Chinese readers are and 
will be common men, are often at a loss to find the sense. The 
subject is strange to them ; the ideas are entirely new, and it is 
no wonder if an uneducated man is mystified, when a character 
is used in an improper sense. The mistakes made sometimes are 
quite ludicrous ; and occasionally things are printed in Chinese 
that are ridiculous. For example, last January Mr. pub- 
lished a Chinese Christian Almanac. In the almanac was an 
account of the planets. Wishing to say, that Jupiter had four 
moons, he actually transferred the word satellites into Chinese, 
making sa-tie-urh-le-tee out of it ! I could hardly believe my eyes 
when I saw this. Why he did not say that Jupiter has sze yue, 
four moons, I cannot conceive ; but, I am sure it would puzzle a 
Chiuese, as much as it would an Englishman, to know what sa- 
tie-urh-le-tee meant. ♦ 



LETTERS. - 241 

A good many tracts have been written in Chinese. Some of 
them are good, and deserve to be widely circulated; some might 
be made good by careful revision ; some, and I suppose by far 
the larger part, ought to be entirely rewritten. I do not think 
that this is at all to be wondered at. See what a language we 
have to learn ; see how short a time the majority of Chinese mis- 
sionaries have spent in studying it; see how hastily many of 
them have written after .commencing to learn it. The wonder 
rather is, that so much that is good has been written. How 
many of the translations and productions of the first missionaries 
to India are now in use? It is less than forty years since the 
first missionary came, and may be said to be less than thirty since 
anything was done here, in the way of direct missionary effort ; 
for there were but two before Mr. Medhurst, and he has been here 
but twenty-seven years. Our numbers are increasing ; great 
variety of talent is coming into the field ; the facilities for learn- 
ing the language are daily increasing, and with the blessing of 
God, I trust that ere long a brighter day will break, it dawns al- 
ready upon the literature of China. In the mean time, however, 
we shall not hasten the coming of that day, by saying there is 
not now a darkness around us. Rather let our eyes be opened 
to see how dark it is, and then we shall know better how much 
light we want, and how much we want light. It is not necessary, 
I suppose, to bring these statements before the public ; but it is 
absolutely necessary that those who manage the affairs of the mis- 
sion here should know precisely what the state of the case is. I 
trust the committee will not consider these remarks as discourag- 
ing in their nature. I look on them as quite the reverse. Let 
us know wherein we have failed in times past, and then the way 
is clear to avoid such failure in time to come. The experience 
of the past is gain to us for the future. The work, to be sure, is 
very difficult, but therefore, so much the more must we exert 
ourselves ; and while we exert ourselves, let us look to the 
strong for strength, and to the wise for wisdom. I never feel so 
much hope of ultimate success in our work, as when the view of 
the difficulties here presses most strongly ; because then I am 
driven away from all dependence on human strength, and seek 
to rest on that almighty arm which is ever stretched out, and to 
look for the guidance of him who is infinite in council and in 
knowledge. 

But I have perhaps written enough on the subject of transla- 
tions and tracts. . . . 

Your affectionate son, W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, October 27th, 1843. 
My Dear Father — 

The past fifteen months have been times of sore trial, in one 
respect or other, to the Protestant missionaries in China. I have 
16 



242 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

been struck, in looking over the list of those in this part of the 
world, to see that scarcely a single one has escaped without some 
personal affliction, either of sickness or accident, or some deeply 
painful bereavement. Mrs. Boone died at Ku-lang-su, August 
30th, 1S42, and her husband has since been obliged to return to 
the United States, partly on account of his own impaired health, 
and partly for the sake of his motherless children. Mrs. Dean 
died in Hong Kong, in March, 1843. Dr. Hepburn, Dr. Hobson, 
and Mr. Stronach, have each lost a son within the year. Dr. 
Lockhart has been called to mourn the death of an only child in 
the same time. Mr. Med hurst, Mr. Milne, and myself, have either 
been shipwrecked or most narrowly escaped it. Mr. Brown's 
house in Hong Kong was attacked and plundered by a gang of 
robbers in the night. Mr. McBryde has been obliged to return to 
the United States, from failure of health. But a day or two since, 
Mr. Dyer, who had spent seventeen years in laboring for the Chi- 
nese, was removed by death, when absent from his family ; and 
almost every other missionary here has had attacks of sickness 
more or less severe. We have all met with a severe loss in the 
death of the Hon. John R. Morrison, who died on the 29th of last 
August. He was the eldest son of the late Dr. Morrison, the first 
Protestant missionary to China. There was bitter mourning here 
when he died, for probably no foreigner in China was so popular 
with all classes as he. His acquaintance with the language and 
manners of the Chinese, his mental abilities, and his business hab- 
its, rendered his services invaluable to the English government, and 
his death at this period, has been well called " a national loss." 
His kindness and urbanity of manners, and his readiness to oblige, 
made him a favorite with all who knew him; and his ardent piety, 
his influence, and his sincere desires to assist the missionaries in 
their labors, make us all feel that we have lost our best human 
friend in China. I shall not soon forget the deep feeling with 
which he once said to me, " I wish you would call on me when- 
ever you think I can be of service to you. I cannot be a mission- 
ary myself, but I wish to make it my first object to assist those 
who are, and to further the cause of Christ in China." Such I 
doubt not were his real sentiments ; and his actions showed that 
they were not mere feelings. I fear we shall not soon see his 
equal among us again. 

It is a question of much interest, what is the design of God in 
sending all these afflictions on his servants here, and in thus re- 
moving one and another apparently so well qualified for his ser- 
vice, and whose loss it is so difficult to replace. It may be that 
we have grievously offended him by our lukewarmness in his ser- 
vice in times past ; and thus he corrects us for our iniquities. 
When his judgments are among us may we learn righteousness, 
while our time lasts, may we be diligent in his service ! 

Perhaps these afflictions are intended to teach another lesson. 
When God has any great work for any of his servants to do, he 



LETTERS. 243 

usually prepares them for it by a previous and often painful train- 
ing - . It may be he has some great work in store to be accom- 
plished by the missionaries in China ; and by these trying dispen- 
sations of his providence, he is exercising our faith and cultivating 
our graces, that we may the more acceptably serve him, and the 
more skilfully gather in the harvest of this great field. There are 
also other considerations worthy to be attended to. A train of 
thought occurred to me shortly after hearing of Mrs. Dean's 
death, that may, perhaps, not prove uninteresting, and without 
further apology I offer it here. 

The death of missionaries is in some respects, and especially to 
the apprehension of sense, painful and discouraging. The need 
of laborers, particularly in China, is so great, our numbers are so 
few, and it is so difficult to obtain more, that we feel the loss of 
even one, very sensibly. Especially is this the case, when one so 
well qualified for usefulness as Mrs. D. is removed. She had been 
here so long as to have made good progress in acquiring the lan- 
guage ; and her prospects of continued health were as fair as those 
of any of her companions. But she is gone with sudden sickness, 
cut down and withered like a flower. Her sun is gone down 
while it is yet day, and we are left to mourn her absence. For 
her we do not weep. She is "gone into peace, resting upon her 
bed, walking in uprightness." Already it has been said to her, 
" Well done, good and faithful servant, enter thou into the joy of 
thy Lord !" We sorrow only for ourselves, and for the church ; 
and yet our feelings should not all be sorrowful, for there is joy 
even to ourselves, connected with thoughts of the departure of the 
servants of God. 

To the eye of faith, the death of laborers in the great field of 
the world, is hardly an object of discouragement. We know that 
God directs all things; we know that he has "determined the 
times before appointed, and the bounds of men's habitation." " Our 
days are determined, and the number of our months is with him ; 
and he has appointed our bounds, which we cannot pass." Job 
xiv. 5. He has a work for each of us to do, and when our work 
is done, he will call us to go and be with him. But surely not be- 
fore it is done : 

" Man is immortal till his work is done." 

We may be sure, therefore, that God would not have called the 
spirit of our fellow-laborer away, if she had not finished the work 
he had for her to do. What, then, should be our conclusion, when 
Ave see one after another departing? Not, surely, that God will 
now permit his church to suffer loss for want of their services. 
We should rather say, " God, whose plans include every event of 
providence, has now finished another part of his great work ; 
and having no further employment here for the servant, engaged 
in that part of the work, he has sent to call her home." 

Thus as one after another is removed, we may say, " Another 



244 MEMOIR OF "WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

and yet another part of the work is done. It is completed, and 
needs not to be gone over again. The tears that have been shed 
will not need to fall again ; the sorrows that have been endured 
are not again to be endured ; the labors that ha^e been perform- 
ed will not again be required." To us, with oui weak eyes and 
feeble sight, the work of each may seem unfinished when they 
go ; but it seems not so to God. We know that his own cause is 
infinitely dear to him, and He will not suffer it to fail for want of 
laborers. If our work is done, and surely He best knows when 
it is done, why should we wish to tarry longer, or seek to detain 
our fellow-laborers from the rest, the rewards, and the glorious 
crowns that await them ? 

To us who are left behind, these bereavements are not in all 
respects discouraging. What is our condition, at best? Is it not 
one of toil, and of trial, and of trouble— of sorrow and affliction, 
of labor and temptation? Do not disappointments cluster thick 
around us, and our inward corruptions at. times rise up and boil 
over, till we are ready to say, "Oh, let me not live always," and 
we even dread the idea of long life on earth? Is it not at times 
appalling to think of ten or twenty or thirty years of such inces- 
sant conflicts and labors? But why thus look forward? Why 
trouble ourselves with the anticipations of future evil? What we 
fear and shrink from, may never come upon us. We may not 
live to see the evil days that shall yet come upon the earth. 
Only two short weeks have passed since our friend was in health 
and vigor. She might have looked forward to as long a life as 
any of us. She might have dreaded the evils we anticipate. Noio 
her trials are over, and over forever. While we are still battling 
with the storm and the tempest, she is safe in the harbor. 
While we often hang our harps upon the willows by the rivers of 
Babylon, she is singing in the temples of Jerusalem. Let this be 
our encouragement. We know not the time to go. It may be 
very near. Behold, " the night is far spent and the day is at 
hand." The waves are wasting their strength ; the storm is 
nearly over. The battle is almost fought, and the victory is 
nearly won. "The time of our salvation is nearer than when 
we believed;" and oh how joyful that salvation will be, after such 
trials! Indeed they will greatly enhance its preciousness, and we 
shall not then regret them. Think you that our sister now re- 
grets having left friends and home to dwell among strangers ? oi- 
ls sorry that here she wandered about, having no certain dwelling- 
place? Is it a sad thing to her that here she was tossed on the 
rough sea ? that all alone she buried her first-born child upon a 
strange shore, and in a heathen land? No! Heaven will be the 
sweeter, after these bitter draughts; rest more delightful, after 
these toils : the haven more charming by contrast of the rough 
sea without. 

It is encouraging to think that home may be so near. We are 
like sailors, who have indeed a compass to direct our course, but 



LETTERS. 245 

no means of ascertaining when our voyage shall end. All around 
is one wide waste, and sea and sky alone meet our gaze. We 
have sailed for many days over these troubled seas, and it may be 
many days yet before we make the land ; and yet, to-morrow 
morning may show it in full view. Our time cannot be long. 
Let this, then, encourage us to bear cheerfully its toils and trials, 
and to labor diligently while it lasts. 

" The righteous perisheth, and no man layeth it to heart ; and 
righteous men are taken away, none considering that the righteous 
is taken away from the evil to come." If this be so, then rejoice 
for those who depart — -but pray for those who remain. 

Your affectionate son, W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, October 21st, 1843. 
Rev. J. C. Lowrie — 

My Dear Brother : — .... I am quite at a loss as to my own 
future course. It really seems as if Providence did not intend that I 
should leave Macao or Hong Kong. Last year I made two efforts 
in splendid ships to go to Singapore and failed, but came back 
here in safety in an old and leaky ship that required almost con- 
stant pumping to keep her afloat. This year I tried to go to 
Chusan in a vessel that was very well recommended, and where 
every possible precaution had been taken by the other passengers 
to have everything on board necessary for the convenience and 
success of the voyage. Yet we were most shamefully treated, the 
vessel was found to be utterly unfit for sea, and we were obliged 
to turn about without accomplishing our voyage. I returned here 
in a little boat from Amoy, in which one-half the people out here 
would not have ventured to go We did meet an accident, break- 
ing our rudder, which might have proved a serious one ; and for 
a while I almost felt about the sea, as David did of his great 
persecutor : " I shall surely perish one day by the hand of Saul." 
But through the good hand of our God upon us, we succeeded in 
repairing the rudder, and reached Hong Kong in safety after a 
quick passage. What am I to think of these things ? Personally 
I have no desire to remain in this part of the country, but rather 
the contrary. The conveniences of living comfortably may be 
enjoyed to a much greater extent here than at any other part ; 
but the opportunities for direct usefulness among the people are 
far less. My acquaintances all tell me, jokingly, that I am not 
to leave Macao ; and indeed for the present I see but little pros- 
pect of it. As far as I can see now, I am fixed here for a year 
and a half yet. And it is now a pretty serious question, whether 
it would not be best to take up this dialect, the Canton. Hitherto 
I have attended to the court dialect, as being the one I should 
probably find most useful in the northern parts. 

However, I trust my way will yet be made plain. Hitherto the 
Lord has led me by ways that I knew not, and hereafter he will 



246 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

doubtless lead me by the best road. My hopes have been disap- 
pointed more than once ; and yet in every case I have seen after- 
wards that it was for the best. It is a good thing to be tried with 
disappointments, at least it has taught me practically ; patience 
worketh experience and experience hope. 

I am much obliged to you for your kind offer to replace the 
Morning Exercises and the Bible ; but I think you will find if 
you look again, that my language is " quite definite ;" that the 
latter does not need replacing. It has gone with me through 
many different places and scenes, and I value it more than I 
could well express. My health continues very good, except that 
I had an attack of chill and fever a few days ago, caused proba- 
bly by the exposure of my late trip. The trip did me a great 
deal of good in other respects. I had been worn down by the 
hot summer, but seem to be quite revived and invigorated now. 
The thermometer stands a little above 70° now. 
I remain your affectionate brother. 

W. M. Lowrie. 

P. S. I forgot to mention that I have lately become acquainted 
with W. C. Milne, and have been very much pleased with him. 
He mentioned having met you in London some years ago, and 
wished to be very cordially remembered to you. He lately came 
over-land from Ningpo to Hong Kong dressed in Chinese clothes, 
wearing a tail, and escaped without detection, until he arrived 
within a few miles of Hong Kong. I believe Sir Henry Pottinger 
was not at all satisfied, that he made such an excursion. He 
described it as having been a very interesting one, and I suppose 
will publish some account of it in the Chinese Repository ere 
lonsr. 



Macao, November 4th, 1843. 

To the Society of Inquiry in the Western Theolog- 
ical Seminary. 

Dear Brethren : — On the 27th of July, this year, a letter 
was put into my hands, addressed to my colleague in this mission, 
the Rev. T. L. McBryde. As you will have learned before now, 
he sailed for the United States, early in the month preceding its 
arrival. He left with me, however, a discretionary power to open 
his letters, and suspecting from the postmark that it was from 
your society, I opened and read it. I suppose that a letter from 
myself in reply, will be nearly equally acceptable, especially as 
I was brought up almost in sight of your Seminary, and have spent 
more than half of my life within thirty miles of it. 

I can assure you, that it will ever afford me great pleasure to 
correspond with you. I have been a theological student myself, 
and know the interest that such students feel in letters from mis- 



LETTERS. 247 

sionaries ; and I can speak from experience too, when I say that 
a missionary is glad to receive letters from a society like yours. It 
was interesting to me to read your accounts of the revivals of re- 
ligion in the West, for it recalled the memory of other days, when 
I also shared in such precious seasons. Dear brethren, you can- 
not too highly value, nor too sedulously improve, the opportunities 
you now have of intercourse in Christian society, — of laboring 
for the good of souls, and especially of being present where the 
spirit of the Lord is poured out. Should you ever become mission- 
aries to the heathen, there is nothing that, in the review, will give 
you more real delight than to recall such times. I have in my 
native land mingled in various scenes ; 1 have gone to the literary 
feast, the crowded assembly, and the cheerful social circle, and 
found pleasure in all ; but I now recall, with far more satisfaction, 
the solitary walk over the hills with a single Christian brother, 
the visit to the poor old Christian negro's cottage, the little prayer- 
meeting in the house where the lame mother in Israel joined in 
the song of praise, and the country Sabbath school. I have forgot- 
ten many other things, but I have not forgotten the Brainerd meet- 
ings of Jefferson College, nor the lime when, in one of the rooms 
in your seminary, a classmate and myself bowed the knee in prayer 
to our common Father. Lay up a store of such things for recollec- 
tion, and they will cheer many a lonely hour in your future course. 
Your letter asks several questions, which I will answer, and 
also, if you permit, will add some other items. You ask what 
special preparation is necessary for the field of labor ? I think, 
principally those of a spiritual nature. I mean, strong faith 
to believe God's promises that the world shall be converted, for 
you will find little in the outward aspect of things to make 
you think so ; patience and perseverance, for both are needed. 
You may have to labor here for many years, and see little appar- 
ent fruit to your labor. Above all, put on charity, wmich is the 
bond of perfectness. Cultivate the spirit of love and forbearance, 
for you will find abundant occasion for its exercise. I trust you 
have none of those romantic notions that will induce you to think 
a missionary a superior being. We are men of like passions 
with others. We come from different parts of the world with differ- 
ent views, from the influences of very different states of public 
feeling. We come to a country where there is no public feeling, 
where each man must judge for bimself, where there is no stand- 
ard of public opinion such as you have at home. In such circum- 
stances, it is natural to expect great diversity of views, and noth- 
ing but the spirit of meekness, and forbearance, and love will 
enable you to live happily with your fellow-laborers. The longer 
I live, the more I am struck with the expressiveness of those reit- 
ated commands of our Saviour in his last address to his disciples, 
to love one another. Brethren, study and practise the thirteenth 
chapter of first Corinthians, and it will do you good wherever 
you are. 



248 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

As to other preparations, the more you know on all subjects, 
provided you know it well, the better. There is hardly an item 
of general knowledge of any kind that I ever acquired, which I 
have not already found occasion to bring into use. On subjects 
of general knowledge, it is important, if you come to this field, to 
know pretty well the histories of England, France, and India. I 
take for granted that you know the history of our own coun- 
try thoroughly, and can tell why the American flag has thirteen 
stripes, and twenty-six stars. Study Geology and Botany by all 
means. These two sciences are of prime importance, and you 
will almost daily find the benefit of an acquaintance with them. 
I do not think a knowledge of medicine necessary to a missionary 
to China. If you have an opportunity of learning something 
about it, very well; but you will not, I think, find it advantageous 
to unite an extensive medical practice with the preaching of the 
Gospel. The two should go together, but it seems better that 
they should be performed by different persons. 

I think the climate of the ports of Ningpo and Shanghae will be 
found most suitable for persons from the United States. Persons 
disposed to bilious complaints and dyspeptics will suffer a good 
deal in the Canton and Fuhkeen provinces. I think a confirmed 
dyspeptic might almost as well not come here. Persons liable to 
consumption would find the Canton and Fuhkeen provinces de- 
lightful residences, and I think that even those of bilious habits 
would be nearly as safe in Ningpo and Chusan, as in the United 
States. They have ice and snow there in winter. The Chinese 
language is very difficult, and I am disposed to say, that one who 
cannot make some tolerable progress in Latin, Greek, or Hebrew, 
may as well not come here. The language is the difficulty in 
China. I do not think it unattainable. I think its difficulties 
have been exaggerated. I think that every year its acquisition will 
be found easier, because more facilities in the way of elementary 
books, and access to the people, are being afforded. In other re- 
spects, I do not consider the field as " peculiarly arduous." On the 
contrary, it is a peculiarly inviting one. I came here almost un- 
willingly, for I wanted to go to Africa, but what I have seen has 
made me glad I came ; and if I know my own heart, its desire is to 
live and die among this people. One thing is very certain, mis- 
sionaries who come to this people will find them in general poor 
and ignorant. Here, emphatically, " to the poor the gospel will be 
preached." You must therefore make up your minds to become 
teachers of babes when you come to this people. There are, I 
admit, many exceptions, and you will often meet men of consider- 
able learning and tact, but the mass of the people are as above 
described. Your own experience has probably already taught you, 
that it. is more difficult for an educated man to come down and 
instruct the ignorant, than it is to instruct those who already know 
something. This suggestion, therefore, may assist you somewhat 
in judging of the qualities a missionary needs, in instructing this 



LETTERS. 249 

people : they are patience, a facility in finding comparisons, a tal- 
ent for simplifying, an engaging address, &c. &c. 

.... There are many items of intelligence I might communi- 
cate to you ; but you will see in the pages of the Chronicle and 
Foreign Missionary, much more than I can possibly write at this 
time, and therefore I shall refer you to them. I do so the more 
readily, because I have nothing of especial interest to communi- 
cate to you, except what this letter contains, which will not appear 
in one or other of those publications. My own progress in the 
language has been but small. Nearly one-half of the time, since 
my arrival in China, ha-s been spent in voyages, and other engage- 
ments connected with the mission ; so that altogether I have given 
but eight or nine months' close attention to it. Still I am encour- 
aged, and hope ere long to have a tolerably good acquaintance 
with it. 

Allow me, in conclusion, to make some remarks on your own 
duty in reference to the heathen, and these I trust you will receive 
not as coming from a superior, but from one himself recently a 
theological student, and still remembering the feelings of such. 
Your letter speaks with just severity of the inconsistency of those 
who passed resolutions to do something special for the cause of 
foreign missions, and yet made no special efforts to accomplish 
their resolution. You speak too of the apathy of the churches 
on this subject, and, as I think, partly lay the blame at the door 
of the pastors of the churches. I am convinced from what I have 
seen, and I saw a good deal before leaving the United States, that 
the fault is with the ministry. " Like priest, like people," is an 
ancient and true proverb. But I do not mean to blame the minis- 
try in general, nor to pass an indiscriminate censure even on those 
of them who have done little or nothing. My object rather is to 
forget the things that are behind, and to press forward to those 
that are before. Hence it has ever appeared exceedingly impor- 
tant, that the students in our theological seminaries should have 
the right spirit in the matter. Could I but see the right spirit 
prevailing in our theological seminaries, I am almost certain that 
in ten years our whole church would assume an entirely different 
appearance, as it regards the cause of foreign and domestic mis- 
sions. Why? Because in that time I suppose our seminaries 
would have supplied five hundred pastors of churches at least, and 
they would be settled in all parts of the country. Suppose now 
that those five hundred pastors had the right spirit, and joined 
their influence heartily with the ministers already earnestly en- 
gaged, and what would be the effect? Their influence would be 
felt in all our Presbyteries and Synods. When the Assembly 
passed resolutions, there would be men enough to respond to them. 
We should no more hear that more than half our churches gave 
nothing at all to the cause of Christ. The whole appearance of 
things would be entirely altered. Now, brethren, you form a part 
of those five hundred ministers. The most of you, I suppose, wil! 



250 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

become pastors in different parts of the country. What is your 
spirit now in regard to the benevolent operations of the day ? 
What do you intend to do when you are settled over your several 
charges ? Shall the theological students of 1853 make the same 
complaints of you, that you make of your predecessors? 

I have no doubt that many of you, I trust all of you, intend to 
do something at least for foreign missions. Your own personal 
duty as to becoming missionaries, is a subject I shall not now 
touch upon. I wish to refer to the influence on behalf of foreign 
missions, which you may exert on the people. Your intentions 
are doubtless good, but what preparations are you now making ? 
What do you know of missions ? Do you think you will be able 
to keep up the interest of your people in the Monthly Concert? 
Do you think you will be able to teach them the true principles 
of missions ; not romantic views, but sober, common-sense, Chris- 
tian principles ? Do you think you will be able to sustain the in- 
terest of your people from year to year, and not merely to sustain 
it, but to cause it to grow; to take deeper root; to become more 
and more a matter of principle, and less and less one of mere im- 
pulse ? Do you think you will be able to do without the visits of 
agents ? I trust you will pardon me if I say, I fear that some of 
you cannot answer these questions in the affirmative. I do not 
know any of you personally, and therefore you will not of course 
consider my remarks as personal ; I only speak from my knowl- 
edge of theological students in general, and that has been prefty 
extensive, and sufficiently accurate to justify me in making the 
above remarks. It is no easy thing to bring the church up to the 
mark, and to keep her there, and you will find this very soon after 
you are settled in the ministry. You will find that without a tol- 
erably thorough and extensive acquaintance with the history and 
principles of missions, you cannot do it. 

Do you ask me, then, what you are to do? I say, first learn. 
Now is your time, while you are in the seminary. Lay a deep 
and broad foundation of missionary knowledge ; study the prophe- 
cies of the Bible in reference to this point, and study them specially. 
See what prophecies relate to Africa. What to the Jews. Whether 
there are any for China. Learn the history of the progress of the 
gospel in all ages and countries, but particularly within the last 
fifty years. Study the history of particular missions ; I take it for 
granted you will study the history of our own board and its mis- 
sions, but I hope you will not confine yourself to them. God has 
blessed other societies, both in America and England, abundantly ; 
and now, when the means of information are so accessible, why 
should you not avail yourselves of them ? Study the Bible with 
reference to this point. Why is it that some men at Monthly Con- 
certs read only the seventy-second Psalm, and the sixtieth chapter 
of Isaiah ? They really seem to think that there are no other parts 
of the Bible that speak of missions. Having learned these things — 
and you see from this hasty outline that there is not a little to be 



LETTERS. 251 

learned, and that you can best commence learning- it while in the 
seminary — the next thing will be to teach. This will be your duty 
in the public services of the sanctuary, in the Monthly Concert, in 
friendly visits among your people, and, above all, in the Sabbath - 
school. Let it be a special object with you to interest the young, 
and you will certainly succeed. But I have written till my hand 
is wearied, and perhaps have wearied your patience. What I 
have written, however, though hastily penned, has not been has- 
tily gathered. I trust it will not be hastily passed over by you. 
I shall be most happy to hear from you as soon as you wish to 
write, and shall prefer that you ask me questions, which I shall 
answer as I can. I have some questions to ask you in return, to 
which I shall be glad to receive answers. What is the order and 
nature of your exercises in the Society of Inquiry and the Monthly 
Concert ? Do your students make it a point of conscience to in- 
quire into their own personal duty to the heathen? And is this 
done in the early part of your theological course ? Do your stu- 
dents generally read the missionary publications, particularly the 
Chronicle and Herald 1 I don't mean, do you take them 7 for I 
have known many students to take, who scarcely ever read them. 
Is your Monthly Concert well attended? Do you have any mis- 
sionary exercises in your Sabbath-schools ? And if so, what and 
how frequently 1 Have any of your students ever written one or 
more missionary sermons before leaving the seminary ? 

If you publish a catalogue, I shall be glad to receive a copy. 
And now, dear brethren, I must close. I make no apology for the 
plainness of my remarks and questions, and trust you will receive 
them in the same frank and Christian spirit with which they are 
made. Pray for me. That the choicest blessings of God may 
ever rest upon you, is the prayer of 

Your brother in Christ, 

W. M. Lowrie. 

P. S. You will readily see from the character of this letter, that 
it is not designed for publication, and I wish, therefore, that you 
will not allow it to appear in the newsoapers. W. M. L. 



Macao, November 6th, 1843. 
My Dear Father — 

.... You make an incidental remark in your letter about 
" one-sided impressions," produced by missionaries in their address- 
es and letters. I think it a very important one. It is a thing- 
that has often occurred to me, since I came out, that missionaries, 
without intending it, have at times produced an impression deci- 
dedly erroneous, by their statements. For instance, there is noth- 
ing in which it is easier to err, than in speaking of the eagerness of 
the people to receive tracts. I remember not long ago, a China- 
man saw me with a tract in my hand and begged me to give it to 



252 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

him. I made him read a little, and finding he could read, gave it 
to him. He was apparently very grateful, and asked me to come 
to his hut. I could not speak a word of his dialect, but he found 
I knew something of the characters, and the first thing he did 
when I sat down was to ask me in writing to sell him some 
opium ! I shall endeavor to avoid giving such impressions in my 
communications. I see no occasion to make remarks merely for 
effect, for the truth, simple and unadorned, respecting China, is 
amply sufficient, if properly presented, to rouse the people and the 
churches. 

I was greatly delighted to hear of the large donation you have 
received for China. I rejoice and take courage when I see God 
raising up such friends, just at the time when they are most 
needed. We have had many difficulties and discouragements in 
this Mission, and may have many yet, but I feel almost assured 
there is a great work for us to do, and that we shall by God's 
blessing do it. I often think that I shall not be permitted to 
labor much directly myself, and were I to be told now, that I 
should hardly live to see our mission assume a settled aspect, it 
would not surprise me. But these are thoughts which, though 
they often occur, I do not allow to hinder me in preparations for 
direct labor. My business is not to trouble myself about the 
future, but to do with my might what my hands find to do, and 
at present that is about as much as I can do. I do not know that I 
have ever been happier than I am at present. I used to be much 
subject to melancholy and lowness of spirits, but am not much so 
now. I am often perplexed, but not in despair ; sometimes 
troubled on every side, and yet not distressed. It seems to me, 
that it would now cause me real anguish to be obliged to return 
to the United States. Yet alas, how soon may the deceitfulness 
of my own heart cause me to speak in quite a different strain. . . 
Your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, December 15 th, 1843. 
My Dear Mother — 

• • • It has become so cold within a day or two past that I have 
to think of old times. . . . My teacher comes in with half a dozen 
jackets on, and draws his hands into the long-lined sleeves of the 
third of them, sitting as snug and cosy, as if he had a little fire- 
place under his elbows. By the way, it is extremely common for 
Chinese of any wealth to carry a small metal vessel, as large as a 
man's fist, with live coals in it. It is used to warm their fingers 
with, and when covered up in the long sleeve must diffuse a very 
grateful warmth up the arm. Frost and snow are so seldom met 
with here, that neither the Chinese nor the Portuguese ever build 
fireplaces in their houses. If necessary they use a brazier with 
charcoal, but commonly adopt the expedient of heaping on addi- 



LETTERS. 253 

tional clothes. Did 1 ever describe to you the winter dress of the 
generality of the Chinese about here? You would laugh if you 
saw them. I do not know what they have next to the skin, but 
from the waist to the ankle the outside dress is a pair of very 
closely fitting drawers, which show exactly the form of the whole 
of the lower extremities. Then the upper part of the body is 
covered with the loose jacket, of which they wear as many as the 
weather requires, or their means permit. Their appearance is 
consequently next thing to ridiculous. The whole of the upper 
part of the body looks like a barrel with a head on the top of it, 
while the legs stick out beneath like a pair of compasses. What 
adds to the effect of the whole, is, that the drawers are of various 
colors, blue, green, yellow, black and white. Many a time I have 
laughed at the comical appearance of a young dandy, who thought 
he was making a grand display in his new clothes and well-turned 
limbs. I should like to see one of them in Broadway, with his 
thick-soled shoes and green tights, his wadded vests, and round 
cap and long tail behind. Yet, after all, I am a great admirer of 
the Chinese modes of dress. Their drawers, and the thick-soled 
shoes, and the tails are the worst parts ; but the better classes do not 
wear the drawers, or at least they wear another garment over 

them It would amuse you to see how universal the use of 

the fan is. I have seen a coolie or common laborer sweating 
along the streets under a heavy burden, and fanning himself all 
the time. It is funny to see some of the mechanics, and others a 
grade or two above the coolies, fanning themselves in summer. 
Their dress then consists of a pair of very loose trowsers fastened 
round the waist by a string, and an upper garment reaching a 
little lower than the top of the trowsers, and hanging loose over 
them. You will see them every now and then putting their hands 
behind them, and fanning up their backs, under this jacket. 

My teacher is quite intelligent for a Chinese, though he knows 
almost nothing of anything beyond China. He thinks it very 
strange that we say North, East, South and West, for the Chinese 
say East, West, South and North. It is also very strange to him 
that we say North-East, South-East, &c, for the Chinese say 
East-North, East-South, West-North, &c. I was amused at a 
talk we had yesterday about the Chinese queue, or tail, as we 
commonly call it. He said that formerly it was not worn, but that 
the present fashion of showing all the front of the head and leav- 
ing it to grow long and braiding it behind, was introduced about 
two hundred years ago, by the present Tartar dynasty. . . 

I told him about the death and resurrection of* Christ, at which 
he seemed much surprised. He asked if Christ was not a man 
like Confucius 1 I told him no, but the Son of God. As his 
curiosity seemed to be somewhat excited, I told him I had a 
biography of Christ which I would lend him, if he wished to read 
it. He said he would, so I gave him a New Testament, which he 



254 MEMOIR OF "WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

took away with him. Oh that the Spirit of God may make it a 
blessing to him. . . 

With love to all the family, I remain, 
Yours affectionately, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, November 20th, 1843. 

To the Society of Inquiry of Princeton Theological 
Seminary. 

Dear Brethren : — It. is now rather more than two years 
since I finally left your institution. I did not intend that so long 
a time should elapse without writing to you, for both my own in- 
clinations, and a kind request from your corresponding secretary, 
have made me wish to hold a correspondence with you. Circum- 
stances, however, over which I have had little control, have in- 
duced me to defer writing till the present period. You may be 
sure it has not been for want of interest in your institution that I 
have so long delayed. On the contrary, the thoughts of hallowed 
seasons in the old oratory where you meet, have been among the 
most pleasant of the many pleasant recollections I have brought 
from the land of my birth. 

I do not mean to write a c sentimental' letter, for my own expe- 
rience in the Seminary taught me that such letters are about as 
dry and unprofitable as any you receive ; yet neither do I mean 
to write a letter containing statistics and stirring facts. The 
most, if not the whole, of what I could at present write in that 
way, has been recently embodied in a journal which I presume 
will be published in the Chronicle, and if you will consider the in- 
formation there contained to be intended for yourselves just as 
much as if I had written it to you, it will save me the labor and 
the time necessary to write it over again, neither of which I can 
very well spare at present. A word or two, however, about my 
own impressions of the Chinese language. You have doubtless 
heard marvellous accounts of its difficulty, and the time necessary 
to gain even a ' smattering' in it — ten, fifteen, twenty, and even 
twenty-five years have I heard assigned as the time in which a 
person may hope to gain some little acquaintance with it. Now 
all this is certainly incorrect. There is no doubt it is a very hard 
language. If any of you come here, you will need a great deal 
more resolution and spirit than you found needed for Hebrew. It 
is, I suppose, the hardest language in the world, and perhaps no 
foreigner will ever acquire it perfectly ; certainly no foreigner ever 
has acquired it perfectly. But I have seen several men who have 
been here much less than ten years who do speak it with great 
fluency, and are quite intelligible, not merely to the teacher who 
has become accustomed to their pronunciation and modes of thought, 
but to the people in general, and that too in the most difficult of 



LETTERS. 255 

all the dialects. Nor are those who have made such acquirements 
men of the most splendid talents, and wonderful facilities in learn- 
ing languages. They are little, if anything, superior to the most 
of those who become missionaries. It is also a most important 
consideration that the facilities for learning the language are now 
vastly greater than they have ever before been, so that at the 
northern ports especially, a person may hope to learn the language 
in two-thirds of the time that was formerly requisite. By facilities 
I mean, books, teachers, and especially opportunities of access to 
the people. I do not wish to give you the impression that it is a 
light work to learn it. If any of you come here with that impres- 
sion you will be sadly disappointed. But if you come, and sit 
down manfully to the task, determined from the outset to be satis- 
fied with nothing less than an accurate acquaintance with the 
tones, and with the sounds, and with the idioms, you will find 
yourselves in two years' time proceeding with profit and pleasure. 
By that time you will have gained much acquaintance with the 
character of the people ; you will be astonished at the vastness of 
the field open before you, and you will thank God that he has sent 
you to labor for this great and ancient race. 

If you come here as missionaries, you must expect many trials. 
They will come upon you in unthought-of ways, and where you 
looked for most joy, you may perhaps find most sorrow. I am led 
to make this remark for two reasons. It is a fact that Chinese 
missionaries have been remarkably tried, some by sickness, some 
by loss of relatives, some by personal inconveniences and disap- 
pointments. There are some twenty or more missionaries to 
China, not including females ; of these twenty, there are scarcely 
three who have not met some sore trial within the last fifteen 
months. I do not know whether missionaries to other countries 
have been so generally afflicted ; but very many of them have, 
and you may be called to experience the same. There is also 
another reason that induces me think that missionaries to China 
must expect trials. We have a very great work to perform. If 
China contain, as it probably does, one-third of the population of 
the globe, and if this people is to be converted to God, then no 
words of mine are needed, as no human words are able to express 
the greatness of the work before us. But when was it ever known 
that any great work was accomplished without labor and toil, self- 
denial, sacrifice, and oftentimes the acutest mental anguish ? Has 
not every great work that ever has been performed for God in the 
world been watered by the sweat, and the tears, and the blood of 
his servants ? And can we expect that the conversion of the most 
populous nation of the globe shall be accomplished with ordinary 
efforts and ordinary sorrows 1 General experience is against it. 
The experience of missionaries to China is against it. And the 
example of God our Son, who, to accomplish the world's redemp- 
tion, became " sorrowful even unto death," should teach us, who 
are to be " partakers of his sufferings," not to expect it. We need 



256 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

to be humbled in the dust before we can be trusted witn success, 
where success is to be so glorious. We need to be purified in the 
furnace before we can labor with acceptance, where our acceptable 
labors are to redound so much to the glory of God ; yet do not think 
that these trials will make you unhappy. For a time they will 
be hard to bear ; but " He giveth more grace." And great as have 
been the trials of the missionaries here, I have seldom associated 
with persons who seemed so truly happy as do most of my fellow- 
laborers in China. These trials are necessary for us here, and it 
was well remarked to me by one who was herself called to bear 
the yoke, " Trials are one of our most precious means of grace." 

We missionaries, as a matter of course, feel much interest in 
the accounts of matters and things in general that reach us in 
the papers from home. It is true, that when twenty papers 
come at once, as they often do, it is not possible to give each one 
a full and careful perusal ; yet somehow or other we manage to 
see a good deal of what is in them, and as you may suppose, our 
minds are variously affected by what we read. Will you allow 
me to give you some thoughts that have occurred to me occasion- 
ally, on reading some of the newspaper articles I have seen ? 
They have appeared in respectable papers, but I attach import- 
ance to them, principally, because they appear to be indices of the 
state of feeling in the religious community on those subjects. I 
observe by several of the papers that there has been a good deal 
of discussion on the question whether missionaries to the heathen 
should be married. This is certainly a most important subject ; 
and as very erroneous views are very extensively held in regard 
to it, I am not sorry to see it discussed. The only thing is, let it 
be discussed on right principles, and when the truth is- discovered 
Jet it be reduced to practice. If I may judge from what I have 
seen in the papers, the impression is gaining ground, that mission- 
aries should be unmarried men : and some of the principal reasons 
adduced for this opinion are, that it will cost much less to sustain 
them ; they will be much more free to move about and embrace 
favorable opportunities of doing good ; they will be less likely to 
go home ; and after all, the wives of missionaries do not do so 
very much, in the way of direct labor, and would not be very 
much missed. Those who are in favor of the marriage of mis- 
sionaries insist very much on the direct usefulness of the wives of 
missionaries, and there are many who seem to think this is the 
chief reason for sending them. Now, with all due deference to 
the advocates of both sides, it strikes me that these arguments 
place the subject on the wrong ground, and present it in a false 
light. 

Missionaries are men of like passions with others, and in the 
present day, when miraculous influences have ceased, I know not 
why they should be judged of in a different way from other men ; 
or why the broad principles of the Bible are not as applicable to 
them as to other men. Now one of the first principles of the 



LETTERS. 257 

Bible on this subject is, " It is not good that the man should be 
alone." This principle, I conceive, was recognized by our Sav- 
iour when the disciples said, " It is not good to marry." He who 
knew what was in man, said, "All men cannot receive this say- 
ing — he that is able to receive it, let him receive it." This is the 
rule by which this question must be decided. It is not good for 
the great majority of men to be alone ; first, because, if alone they 
are exposed to temptations, which sad experience proves that most 
men cannot withstand ; secondly, because, though they may by 
grace withstand the temptations to actual sin, yet they are not 
contented ; and they want those solaces of affection which the 
human heart craves, and those counsels of intimate friendship 
that are so grateful to him that is separated from the influences 
of Christian society. If, then, you can live sinlessly in the unmar- 
ried state ; if you can be contented ; if you can be satisfied with- 
out the kindly influences of female society ; then I say, it is prob 
ably your duty to be an unmarried missionary, but not otherwise. 

The expense is not the question ; and as long as the Church is 
so abundantly able to bear it as she now is, it is a shame to men- 
tion such a consideration, or to ask, why does not the missionary 
live as the whalers and fur hunters do ? 

There is force in the consideration, that an unmarried mission- 
ary is more free to move about, and at times to occupy stations 
where married men cannot easily go, and the consideration should 
have its own weight with those who think of this subject. But 
there is equal force in the consideration, that permanent good, and 
visible effects have most commonly followed where the married 
missionary has settled, and by his settlement concentrated his 
efforts. The direct usefulness of the missionary's wife, is by no 
means the main point in deciding this question. Her first duty 
in all cases is to attend to her husband and children ; and if she 
have time and strength for more than this, then that is all clear 
gain. Let her preserve her husband from those temptations to 
which unmarried men are exposed ; let her soothe him in his 
hours of despondency ; let her relieve him from the household 
cares that must interrupt him if unmarried ; let her soften the 
disposition that without her influence would become rough and 
rude; (for as Bacon says, "Certainly wife and children area 
kind of discipline of humanity;") let her show by her silent ex- 
ample what a Christian wife and mother is, and how she should 
be treated ; and if she never learns a syllable of the native lan- 
guage, or teaches a single heathen child a letter, she has accom- 
plished a work worth ten times more than the expense of her 
outfit and support. These observations may excite a smile, but 
they are not written in levity. They may appear strange, and 
half-romantic, but only to those who have romantic views of mis- 
sions. Much thought and the acquaintance of several mission- 
aries, convince me that they are the words of truth and soberness. 
As to the question whether it is the wife who causes the return of 



258 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

the missionary, although the general opinion seems to be that it 
is, yet I have'my doubts. Certainly the experience of the Pres 
byterian board does not say so ; for of all their missionaries who 
have returned on account of ill health, Mr. Rogers of North 
India, is the only one who has yet been taken back by his wife's 
ill health ; in every other case it is the husband's ill health that 
has taken the wife back. The experience of the American board 
seems to be different ; but I should be glad to see a fuller array 
of facts, than the celebrated paper of Dr. Anderson presents. It 
does not strike me that the whole of the facts, in regard to the 
return of all who do return, is there presented. If I remember 
rightly, that paper speaks of the return of so many married mis- 
sionaries, but does not say anything about the return of unmar- 
ried missionaries. But even admitting that it has been the case 
in the experience of that board, that the wife has taken the hus- 
band home, where does the fault lie 7 

It is to this point I would direct your special attention ; for most 
of you will become pastors at home, and the impression is very 
strong upon my mind, that it has been the fault of the pastors at 
home that so many unqualified missionary's wives have gone 
abroad, and finding, after they got abroad, that they were unqual- 
ified, have been obliged to return. I know something of the way 
in which this happens. A young woman, for some reason or 
other, becomes desirous of going as a missionary, and very natu- 
rally consults with her pastor. He is glad to find a member of 
his church so disposed, for he hopes she will do good abroad, and 
will excite an interest among his own people ; and possibly the 
thought occurs to him, especially if two or three of his flock should 
become missionaries or missionaries' wives, " What a number of 
my people are becoming missionaries !" Now it is just as possible 
as not, that this pastor's views of the qualifications of a mission- 
ary's wife are not very high ; and it is quite probable, (I know it 
to be a fact in some cases,) that he does not carefully inquire 
whether her talents, acquirements, and bodily health, fit her for 
the work ; but at once he encourages her to proceed. He regards 
her as a candidate, and recommends her to some young man, 
who is reckless enough, (I say reckless, for that is the word,) to 
risk his happiness and usefulness for life on a three days' acquaint- 
ance. They are married, go abroad, and come back again. 1 
know a case in which a young woman, who could scarcely write 
her own name, and had only the commonest rudiments of an 
English education, was recommended by an Old-School Presby- 
terian pastor for an assistant missionary ; and that pastor was 
almost offended with a discreet missionary's wife, who told him 
he ought not to encourage such a person to become a missionary. 
In all cases of this kind, certainly the pastors are to be blamed, 
and I trust that none of you will ever encourage such procedures. 
Do not think that I wish to shield missionaries from blame, when 
they deserve it, or that I do not think they often do deserve it. 



LETTERS. 259 

I am too deeply conscious of my own defects, and too often pained 
by what I see, not to admit that in many things we offend, and 
in all we come short ; but still, let justice be done to all, and espe- 
cially let those with whom, after all, rests the responsibility of 
carrying on the cause of foreign missions — I mean the pastors of 
the church at home — see to it that they perform their part of the 
matter aright. 

The previous remarks have become so much longer than I ex- 
pected, that I must hasten over the other items which I wished to 
notice. I have been exceedingly pained by some articles I have 
seen lately in the papers, in reference to the claims of the domes- 
tic and foreign fields. The spirit of the articles referred to has not 
been of the right kind. I have no doubt their authors meant 
well ; but it appears to me to be an exceedingly erroneous course, 
to attempt to set the claims of foreign and domestic missions in 
array and in opposition against each other, or to say that too 
much attention has been given to the one, to the neglect of the 
other. The attempts I have seen in some of the papers to show 
that literally more has been done for foreign than for domestic 
missions, I pass by, as unworthy of an answer : you can count 
every cent that is expended for the foreign field, but you have not 
the statistics for one-half the expenses of the domestic field ; and 
yet it is easily shown that even the half of those expenses is much 
greater than all that is expended abroad. These men talk of the 
vastness of the domestic field, of the favorable openings, of the 
need of laborers ; and they tell us that these men are our brethren, 
and have special claims upon us. I admit it all, and if I could 
add anything to the force of what they say, I would beseech you, 
by the mercies of Christ, and by your love for the souls of your 
brethren, to do with your might what your hands find to do for 
them. But why should this be done by disparaging the claims 
of the foreign field ? O brethren, if I could show you what I have 
lately seen, — the numerous openings where the gospel may be 
preached, the unnumbered thousands who are accessible with far 
more ease than the scattered inhabitants of the West, the fewness 
and feebleness of the laborers sent by the Church, — and if we 
could all feel that these, too, are our brethren, seeing God hath 
made us all of one blood to dwell on all the face of the earth, you 
would give little heed to such unworthy comparisons. If the 
church were now doing all in her power ; if every nerve were 
strained as much as the gospel requires, then there might be oc- 
casion to pause, and ask, are we not doing too much here, or too 
much there ? But as long as more than half the Church is doing 
nothing, absolutely nothing, let there be no more complaints that 
too much is done for the heathen. I object to the papers referred 
to, because they give countenance to the idea, that the interests 
of the foreign and domestic fields are not the same. If there is 
any man who renounces such an idea, it is the missionary to the 
heathen. Our hearts rejoice within us when we hear of the ex- 



260 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

tension of the cause of Christ at home, and that the gospel is 
preached to the poor and the destitute. Why? Not only because 
of the amount of actual good accomplished, but because we know 
that thus new funds, and new men, are raised up for the foreign 
field, and additional prayers ascend on our behalf. Every con- 
quest at home increases our strength abroad. But if we are told 
that these conquests are to be gained henceforth by diminishing 
the efforts abroad, and disparaging the importance of the work in 
which we are engaged, then we have small reason to rejoice. 
But I w T ill not believe that such one-sided views shall ever gain 
general currency among those who see and know, that one of the 
surest ways to promote vital piety at home, is to make it active 
and expansive ; so that, while it rejoices to do good to those around, 
it embraces the world in the wide arms of charity. 

The remark is often made that missionaries, by giving so much 
of their attention to a particular subject, become men of merely 
one idea, and do not in their appeals and communications advert 
sufficiently to the wants of other fields. I have no disposition to 
deny the charge, for in this world it is but seldom that much is 
done, except by such men of one idea. The man whose mind is 
filled with an hundred ideas is likely to do much less for any of 
them than the man of one idea does for all. But it is a question 
worthy of consideration, whether the man who looks solely at the 
little corner where himself is located is not more truly liable to 
the charge of being a man of one idea, and that sometimes a 
very contracted one. The missionary has seen the destitutions 
of his own country, and he has also seen the destitutions of the 
heathen. Why is he not at least as well qualified to judge of the 
comparative claims of each, as the man who has never been 
beyond the bounds of his own state, or it may be, the limits of 
his own neighborhood? 

I observe that one of the "standing requests" you propose to 
your foreign correspondents is, " Can you send us any curiosi- 
ties ?" To this I answer, " Yes, plenty ; if I had the money to 
buy them with." Such things are not easily to be procured with- 
out paying for them ; and as a missionary's salary does not com- 
monly give him a great deal of spending money besides his 
necessary expenses, he cannot easily send many curiosities to all 
who would like to have them. I will, however, keep my eyes 
open, and endeavor to make some addition to your cabinet. 
Allow me to suggest whether it Avould not be better for you to 
make an annual appropriation of ten, twenty, or thirty dollars, 
and request some of the missionaries to procure articles for your 
cabinet? I will most cheerfully undertake any such commission 
for you, and will procure either such articles as you may specify, 
or myself select such as may be interesting, and I am sure that 
Wilson, and Scott, and Owen, and Janvier, in India, and Sawyer 
in Africa, and Dougherty and Loughridge, will do the same with 
equal cheerfulness in their respective fields. There will be no 



LETTERS. 261 

difficulty in remitting the money, for all that is necessary is to 
pay it at the Mission Rooms at New York, stating that it is " for 
curiosities, &c, for the Seminary at Princeton." Have you a set 
of the Chinese Repository 1 I know you have one or two of the 
volumes ; but it is very desirable that you have the whole set, 
for there is no work, ancient or modern, that gives so much in- 
formation concerning China. If you will give me instructions to 
that effect, and tell me what volumes you have, I can easily pro- 
cure you the others. There are now twelve volumes ; the first 
and second are six dollars each, and the other ten three dollars 
each, being forty-two dollars for the set. It is continued yearly 
at three dollars a year. 

Do you still make it a rule to send one of the Seminary Cata- 
ogues to each of your members who goes to the foreign field? 
it will give me much pleasure to receive one yearly ; and as all 
my acquaintances in the seminary will soon be gone from among 
you, I shall not know whom to look to, except the Society of 
Inquiry. 

I must now bring this lengthy epistle to a close. That every 
blessing from above may rest upon you, may direct your future 
course, and crown your labors with success, is the prayer of your 
friend and brother in the gospel, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, December 30th, 1843. 
11y Dear Father — 

.... The principal occurrence of interest during the month 
has been some rather public discussions of the visit paid by Mr. 
Abeel and myself to Chang-Chowfoo. After my return, Mr. 
Bridgeman and others importuned me to write an account of it 
for the Chinese Repository. I declined at first, from a dislike to 
make myself so prominent as such an account would necessarily 
make me. Being still urged I consented, and Mr. Bridgeman 
and myself looked over it carefully to see that there were no 
incorrect statements ; and, not to offend our English friends, 
omitted all reference to the manner in which the officers at 
Chang-Chow spoke of Americans. The article was read with 
interest, and among others an English officer of some influence 
in Hong Kong spoke of it quite favorably. Judge, then, of my 
surprise, when a few days afterwards Sir Henry Pottinger pub- 
lished a proclamation expressly referring to it, pointedly condemn- 
ing our conduct, and informing the Chinese authorities of the 
Provinces of Canton and Fuhkeen, that the " party, &c., were 
Americans !" This excited no little talk, and I heard many per- 
sons condemn Sir Henry's course as impertinent and uncalled 
for, though I found that the insinuations of the proclamation 
were leaving unfavorable impressions as to my conduct. I ac- 
cordingly prepared a reply, and sent it to the " Friend of China." 



262 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

A cautious friend in Hong Kong, without my leave, withdrew 
the article. When he gave me his reasons, I did not deem them 
sufficient. I could not see how a plain and manly defence of 
one's course against uncalled for and injurious charges was im- 
proper. I considered too that our American citizenship and free- 
dom from the surveillance of English authorities, were important 
circumstances in our favor in carrying on the work of missions 
here, and were to be defended and maintained. Accordingly I 
wrote another article, which appeared this week in the Friend of 
China. 

In consequence of Sir Henry's letter to the governor of Canton, 
the latter addressed a letter to the American consul, informing him 
of the affair, and urging him to enforce on his countrymen the 
necessity of obedience to the treaty. Mr. Forbes wrote back that 
his countrymen would always obey the laws when made known ; 
but that when we went to Chang-Chow, the supplementary treaty 
was not known to us. He also wrote me a very gentlenianty let- 
ter, more, I suppose, as a matter of form than anything else, in- 
forming me of the communication of the governor of Canton. 

The notoriety attending this affair has been not a little unpleas- 
ant and annoying to me, but I do not feel that I have done any- 
thing to be ashamed of. I suppose it is to be considered as one 
of the necessary trials of this state of warfare, and a wholesome 
discipline to prepare me for future trials. Pray for me that I may 

have wisdom and prudence to guide me in all my ways 

Your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



GOVERNMENT NOTIFICATION. 

The annexed copy of an official communication, addressed on 
the 18th instant by Her Britannic Majesty's Plenipotentiary, &c, 
in China, to their Excellencies the Yiceroy and Lieut. Governor 
at Canton, is published for the information and warning of Her 
Majesty's subjects, as well as of the subjects or citizens of all 
other states, who may be at this time residing at any place occu- 
pied by Her Majesty's forces in China. 

In directing the publication of this letter, Her Britannic Majes- 
ty's Plenipotentiary cannot refrain from expressing both his disap- 
probation of, and great surprise at the conduct of the persons con- 
cerned in this matter, who appear not only to have gone to the 
very unjustifiable length of bearding the local authorities, but to 
have attempted to explain the stipulations of some parts of the 
treaty, in a way that could not fail to excite the alarm and appre- 
hension of the government of China, as well as the indignation 
of all right thinking persons, at so gross an evasion of a solemn 
engagement between two great empires. 



LETTERS. 263 

By order of his Excellency, Her Britannic Majesty's Plenipoten- 
tiary, &c., &c, in China. 

Richard Woosnam. 
Government House, Victoria, 
Hong Kong, 27th November, 1843. 



Government House, Victoria, 
{Hong Kong,) November 18th, 1843. 

I trouble your Excellencies with this letter, in consequence of 
my attention having been called to a " Narrative of a recent Yisit 
to the Chief City of the Department of Chang-Chow, in the Prov- 
ince of Fokeen," which has just been published at Macao, and 
from which it would appear that certain foreigners had, during 
last month, visited the said city of Chang-Chow, and forced their 
way into the country, in opposition to the wishes and orders of the 
local authorities, who pointed out to the foreigners that their doing 
so was contrary to the treaty, &c, &c. 

From this remark of the local authorities, I can only infer — es- 
pecially as the provisions of the supplementary treaty were not at 
that time made public — that the mandarins believed the persons 
who thus acted to be Englishmen, and I should therefore esteem 
it a favor, your Excellencies' officially informing the Viceroy and 
Lieutenant Governor of Fokeen, that the party of foreigners who 
visited Chang Chow Foo and forced their way into the country, 
were Americans and not British subjects. 

I reiterate to your Excellencies my constant and earnest desire 
to restrain all British subjects from thus, or in any other respect, 
committing the smallest infraction of the terms of the treaty ; and, 
should any of them hereafter attempt to do so — no matter what, 
the pretence may be — in defiance of the rules that have been laid 
down, and the proclamations that have been issued, I trust the 
local mandarins will seize and confine them, and will send them 
to the nearest English Consular Officer, to be dealt with as may 
be found necessary and proper to enforce implicit obedience. 

In addition to making this official communication to your Ex- 
cellencies, I shall publish this letter, aud instruct all British Con- 
sular and other officers, to warn all persons residing under their 
authority against any infraction, however trifling, of the rules and 
regulations that have been laid down. 

I avail myself of this opportunity to convey to your Excellen- 
cies my best wishes for your health and happiness. 

(Signed,) Henry Pottinger. 

True Copy, 

Richard Woosnam. 
Their Excellencies 

Kekung, Yiceroy, &c, &c., &c., 

Chingkeahtsai, Lieutenant Governor, &c, Canton. 



264 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 



Macao, December 23d, 1843. 
To the Editor of the Friend of China — 

Dear Sir : — A government notification dated November 27th, 
appeared in your paper some time since, on which I beg leave to 
offer a few remarks ; circumstances beyond my control have pre- 
vented me from doing so at an earlier date. 

The first thing remarkable in the notification is, that it refers 
to persons over whom Sir Henry Pottinger has no control, and for 
whose conduct he is not responsible. His Excellency was aware 
of this, yet he assumes the power to express Officially " both 
his disapprobation of, and great surprise at, the conduct of" Amer- 
icans. The notification is still more remarkable, because, so far 
as appears, no complaint was made to Sir Henry by the Chinese 
authorities. It is not commonly thought to be the duty of H. B. 
M. Plenipotentiary in China, to report the conduct of even his own 
countrymen to the Chinese government. How much less does it 
become him to act the part of informer against the citizens of 
other countries. On these two points, however, as well as in re- 
gard to the hard words of the notification, but little need be said. 
The opinion of " all right thinking persons" is already formed 
concerning them, and from that opinion I shall not appeal. 

The letter of Sir Henry Pottinger to the Governor and Lieuten- 
ant-Governor of the Province of Canton, is calculated to convey 
the impression, that the persons of whose conduct he complains, 
went by force and violence to Chang-Chow. He says more than 
once " they forced their way into the country," and also that they 
" bearded the local authorities." It is sufficient to say that force 
was neither used nor intended, nor was a sign of opposition shown 
until after we had hired lodgings in Chang-Chow ; and if quietly 
reasoning with Chinese officers be " unjustifiably bearding them," 
we may possibly be guilty of the same offence again. As to our 
misinterpreting the treaty and "grossly evading solemn engage- 
ments," His Excellency claims more for the treaty of Nankin, than 
its published extracts contain. What article of that treaty prohib- 
its even Englishmen from visiting other places besides the five 
ports? And why was article sixth inserted in the Supplementary 
Treaty if the previous treaty spoke definitely on that point ? His 
Excellency informs the Chinese authorities that " the party of 
foreigners who visited Chang-Chowfoo, were Americans." Does he 
mean to inform them that none but Americans have gone there ? 
If not, the definitive article is singularly out of place. If he does, 
it will not be hard to prove that several parties of Englishmen 
have visited the same city. His Excellency also says, "I can 
only infer that the Mandarins believed the persons who thus acted 
to be Englishmen." The natural " inference" from this sentence 
is, that we passed ourselves off for Englishmen — else why should 
the Chinese believe we were such ? Does Sir Henry mean to as- 
sert this ? If he does, I beg leave to assure him of the contrary. 



LETTERS. 265 

The Mandarins did not believe we were Englishmen, because we 
told them from the first, that we were Americans ; and this might 
have been " inferred" from the " narrative," just as readily as the 
reverse. They asked us " who we were," and the charity that 
thinketh no evil, would have inferred that we told them the truth. 
Your obedient servant, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



CHAPTER VI. 

1844. 

RESIDENCE IN MACAO — LETTERS — CHINESE PRINTING WITH METAL TYPE — 
ARRIVAL OF NEW MISSIONARIES — THEIR FIELDS OF LABOR. 

During the year 1844, the missionary force in China was much 
enlarged. In February, D. B. McC§rtee. M.D., and Mr. R. Cole, 
printer, and his wife, reached China. The Rev. R. Q,. Way and 
his wife arrived in July, and the Rev. Messrs. J. Lloyd, A. P. 
Happer, M.D., A. W. Loomis, and M. S. Culbertson, with Mrs. 
Loomis and Mrs. Culbertson, in October. 

The location of these brethren at the different missions, was a 
subject of much importance, and of some delicacy. In relation to 
it, the officers of the board had conversed freely with the new mis- 
sionaries, after which, with some general suggestions from the 
Executive Committee, the matter was left to their own decision. 
Though younger than some of his colleagues, yet as the mission- 
ary longest in China, much of the responsibility rested on Mr. 
Lowrie ; and until their respective missions were fixed, it was to 
him a time of much anxiety and care. After a season of prayer 
for Divine direction, with much harmony they arranged their 
places at the different missions. At Canton were settled Mr. Hap- 
per, and for the present, Mr. Cole, with the press ; at Arnoy, Mr. 
Lloyd and Dr. Hepburn, who were to be joined by the Rev. H. A. 
Brown, when he should arrive ; at Ningpo, Mr. Lowrie, Mr. Way, 
Mr. Culbertson, Mr. Loomis, and Dr. McCartee. This arrange- 
ment involved the separation of two friends, Messrs. Lloyd and 
Lowrie, and most deeply was it felt by both. Both were con- 
vinced, however, that the interests of the Master's cause required 
this trial, keen as it was, and after a short interview of two 
weeks, they parted to meet no more on earth. 

The printing press and the Chinese matrices were received in 
February, when Mr. Cole arrived. The theory of printing the 
Chinese language with metal type — a large portion of them being 



LETTERS. 267 

divisible characters — was to be reduced to practice, and tested by 
actual experiment. The type were to be cast, and four thousand 
different characters were to be arranged in cases for the composi- 
tor. To be convenient, the characters most frequently used re- 
quired to be placed together, whilst regard was to be had to the 
principles of the language, as arranged under their different radi- 
cals or keys. Mr. Cole was experienced in English printing, but 
he had no knowledge of Chinese, and the entire arrangement of 
the Chinese characters devolved on Mr. Lowrie. Everything was 
new. Some of the characters occur very rarely, others occur re- 
peatedly on every page ; hence some approximation to the relative 
number of each had to be made, before the type could be cast, and 
the difficulty of this work was increased by a large part of them 
being divisible. After months of labor, these difficult matters 
were accomplished, and the press went into successful operation 
in June. 

Besides attention to the press, much of his time was required 
on behalf of the other missionaries. He was their general treas- 
urer. He was in a measure at home ; they were in a strange 
place ; their business affairs necessarily fell to his share, and his 
services were of much benefit to them. His correspondence with 
the Mission House was also very full. Much to his regret, these 
various items greatly interfered with his Chinese studies. 

During this year, Mr. Lowrie prepared a series of articles on the 
history of the missionary work in China, with a brief account of 
the Jews and Christians in China, which were published in the 
Chinese Repository. They were afterwards reprinted in the Uni- 
ted States, under the title of the Land of Sinim, or an exposition of 
Isaiah xlix. 12. 

Dr. McCartee left Macao for Ningpo in June, and Mr. Way and 
his wife in August. Mr. Lloyd left for Amoy in November. 
Owing to the north-east monsoon, the other missionaries for 
Ningpo did not set out till the February following. 



Macao, January 1st, 1844. 
My Dear Mother — 

I wish you a very happy new year, and many returns of the 
same ! How rapidly the last year has flown away ! .... After 
breakfast I sat down to my Chinese with my teacher, and read a 
little, and got him to explain a few phrases to me. He asked me 
what so many of my friends came here for yesterday, and I told 
him it was for public worship ; that we read our sacred books, and 



268 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

sung and prayed, and that I explained what was read. He said 
this was very proper ; that formerly there had been the same cus- 
tom in China, but not now ; he did not know why it was not 
used now. 

.... After making a number of calls through the day, Mr. W. 
and I started out, and walked beyond the Barrier. It was after 
dark before we got back. He told me that some of the people did 
not like my sermon yesterday, and that one who had not heard it 
was a good deal displeased. I expected this. It was about Sab- 
bath-breaking, and I took occasion to bear as decided a testimony 
as I could against the general desecration of the Sabbath here, by 
all classes : for example, the Supplementary Treaty was signed 
on Sabbath, with all its parade and confusion. The mails for 
'England were closed yesterday week at Hong Kong, thus requir- 
ing the foreigners there to spend that day in their counting-houses. 
I referred to these facts. The highest officer commonly takes the 
Sabbath to go between Hong Kong and Macao. One left this 
place yesterday in the steamer for Hong Kong. Many of the 
merchants regularly spend the Sabbath in their counting-houses. 
More ships are despatched on the Sabbath than on any other day 
of the week. This I know. The Sabbath is the day for visiting 
here, as in all other parts of the East Indies. Oh, it is most mel- 
ancholy to see how the day is profaned, and that, too, by men 
who at home would not dare to do so. Most men seem to leave 
their consciences and the fear of God behind them when they 
come to China. The heathen see them, and have dealings with 
them, and they think we are all alike. Judge, then, what effect 
our preaching and exhortations have upon them. 

Ten o'clock, p. m. You are just commencing the day. So it is : 
those who love each other are widely separated, but such separa- 
tions will not last forever, and if time always rolls as fast as the 
last year has done, they will very soon be no more. Oh that we 

may all meet at last where we shall go no more out 

Yours affectionately, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, January 18th, 1844. 
My Dear Mother — 

This day finishes two years since I left the United States. I 
know not how the time has seemed to you, but to me it appears 
under a very singular aspect. It has gone so rapidly that I can 
scarce conceive so much has really elapsed ; and yet it has led me 
through so many strange scenes, that I can scarcely crowd them 
all into it. I like to look back occasionally, for the immediate 
effects of all I have seen have passed away, and they come up 
before me quietly and calmly to be thought about. I try to look 
forward, but in vain, for I know not what a day may bring forth. 
I am just as uncertain as I was two years ago, where my lot shall 



LETTERS. "4bd 

yet be cast, or whether I shall ever find a " place of rest." It is 
not an easy thing- to learn to live by the day, or in " patience to 
possess one's soul." I want to be moving, to be doing something, 
to see results ; but my mouth is closed, and at present my feet 
are bound. Sometimes it is, " Oh that I had wings like a dove, 
for then would I fly away ;" but then again the word comes, " The 
husbandman hath long patience." This is a trial of missionary 
life that did not at first enter much into my thoughts, its compar- 
ative inaction. I am busy as I can well be, yet my life is as quiet 
as it was in the Seminary, and I see even less of company. It is 
nearly three weeks since I have spoken to a lady, and it is three 
months since I have spent a day in a house with one. So we 
pass away. We are strangers here, at one time walking in the 
crowded streets, and at another threading the wilderness path 
alone, but ever pressing on to the end of our course. Shall it be 
long or short ? painful or pleasant ? But these are not the ques- 
tions for us to ask. It is ours to take no thought for the morrow. 
January 19. As clear and bright a day as it was two years ago, 
but a good deal warmer. After reading a page or so in the San 
Ko Che, or History of the Three States, I started off about eleven 
o'clock, with my teacher, to visit the temple of Wakok. (I wrote 
a description of it some time ago for the Foreign Missionary.) I 
had been there often, but wanted my teacher to explain some 
things which I did not understand. As you may suppose, 1 talk 
with him in very broken language, and can understand only a 
part of what he says, but we make out to talk a good deal to- 
gether. I think I can see his respect for the superstitions of his 
own country perceptibly decreasing, though I fear that it is only 
to make way for an indifference to religion that is even worse. 
A couple of well-dressed and respectable-looking men were bow- 
ing and kneeling, lighting incense-sticks, and burning paper be- 
fore the images. He said they were praying for wealth ; but he 
acknowledged that the images could not hear them. They went 
to several of the images, and as they went to each one, an at- 
tendant struck the bell and the drum several times. I asked him 
what that was for ? He said, to " rouse the attention of the idol, 
and make her hear !" I asked him what sort of gods these were, 
when it was necessary to awaken them to make them listen to 
their worshippers ? He said, with a good deal of earnestness, " I 
don't worship these ; I worship only the spirit that is represented 
by them." However, he acknowledged that most of the people 
worshipped the idol. He then asked me, if we used no images of 
Jesus Christ ? I said no ; that the Roman Catholics used a 
crucifix, but that I thought this wrong, and that it was folly to 
worship any image. " It had eyes, but could not see ; ears, but 
could not hear; nose, but could not smell; feet, but could not 
walk." It is just so here. that he were a Christian ! He is a 
very amiable man, a man of some learning, and simple-minded, 
and might do great good if converted. I like him far better than 



270 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

any teacher I have yet had, and he* seems very well satisfied to 
stay with me : though he does get tired sometimes, when I ply 
him with questions, and keep him sitting by me for three or four 
hours together. I told him the other day, that in the United 
States we elected our own Hwang Shang and Tsung Tuk, 
"Emperor and Viceroys." (The Chinese have no word corres- 
ponding to President and Governors.) I think I never saw a man 
so astonished. He held up both hands, and stared at me, and at 
last exclaimed, " Hi yah ! 'Astonishing ! I never heard of such a 
thing !" He said at first it was a very bad plan, for the people 
would be always fighting. But after I had shown him that in 
this way we secured the election of just officers, and men who 
would not oppress us, while their officers; according to his own 
acknowledgment, were extremely venal and extortionate, he said, 
" Well, perhaps it may be good for you, but T'm sure it wouldn't 
be possible to do so here ;" which is very true. It is wonderful 
how ignorant the Chinese learned men are. I believe he looks 
on me as a sort of Baron Monchausen, though I have told him 
very little that is not known to every school-boy in the United 

States 

Hoping to hear from you soon, I remain, as ever, 

Yours affectionately, W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, February 1st, 1844. 
My Dear Father : — 

I have the pleasure of sending herewith something that I think 
will amuse you. It is a letter to yourself, in Chinese, from my 
Chinese teacher. In my conversation with him, I have at differ- 
ent times told him particulars about our family, and of course 
have not failed to speak of you. I told him you knew something 
of Chinese, at which he was greatly astonished and gratified, and 
one day I proposed to him that he should write you a letter. The 
idea pleased him wonderfully, and in a day or two he brought me 
the inclosed. It is entirely of his own composition, and does not 
contain an idea suggested by myself, e. g., I did not tell him any- 
thing of what he ought to write about, though, as you will see, he 
has referred in it to various things I have said. It is composed 
with a good deal of art, and several of the sentences correspond 
together in a way that the Chinese call very beautiful. Moreover 
it is, as my teacher says, Haoa Kan, very beautiful to see, and 
Haou Ting, very beautiful to hear ; being, in fact, a Wan Chang, 
which none but a Sewtsae or a Keujin could write. How difficult 
it is to write I know not, but it is certainly not easy to read, for I 
would rather undertake a dozen pages of the San Ko Che, or 
History of the Three States, than another of these letters. It took 
me a whole day to read it, with my teacher himself to explain it 
to me ; and I assure you I thought I had made no small progress 
in learning Chinese, when I at last discovered the meaning. 



LETTERS. 271 

It seems to me the more I think about the matter, that there 
must be a radical change in the literature and literary style of 
China, before it can be made the vehicle of permanent and exten- 
sive usefulness. A great deal is said of the fact, that so many in 
China can read, but it is to be feared that a great deal too much 
is expected from this. Their literature at present, and the style 
in which it is written, reminds me very much of the state of Eu- 
rope before the Reformation. There were learned men then, and 
they had a learned language, different from that of every-day life, 
which the common people did not understand. This learned lan- 
guage was known to the learned all over Europe, and even some 
of the poorer class could read it, for the alphabet was the same in 
most places ; but they did not understand what they read, and of 
those who did understand, and wrote in the learned language, the 
less that is said the better. Who reads their writings now, or 
cares for their opinions 7 A new mode of thinking, and speaking, 
and writing was introduced after the Reformation, and the old 
has disappeared. Very much the same revolution, in my humble 
judgment, must occur in China. They have a learned language 
here, and unless a book be written in that language, it has little 
favor. That language may be learned by many years of study, 
but it is not the language of the people, nor of nature. Many 
who can pronounce the characters do not understand them ; and 
the world will be never the worse, if nine-tenths of the books at 
present in circulation here be lost forever. Some Chinese Bacon 
must arise, and do for China what Lord Verulam did for Europe. 

I speak with a good deal of diffidence on these points, for I am 
only forming my own opinion about them, and others who ought 
to know more think differently. I am, however, very far from 
supposing that the Chinese styles, either of printing, or speaking, 
or writing, or acting, are always the most tasteful, or the most 
convenient, or the most practically useful. In general I think 
them very much like their thick-soled shoes, which my teacher 
says " are very good-looking, but not so good to walk with." 
There can be no doubt of the truth of the latter part of this re- 
mark, while each one must judge for himself of the good looks. 

.... I send you my Luban walking-stick, which you must take 
good care of, though I hope it will be long before you need to use 
it. I do not want to use it myself, for it might get broken or be 
lost, and therefore, for safe-keeping, I will put it in your hands. 

That every blessing may ever rest upon you is the prayer of 
Your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, February 2d, 1844. 
My Dear Mother — 

. , . . I send you herewith, a curiosity; it is the translation of the 
Chinese letter which my teacher, at my suggestion, wrote to fa- 



272 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

tlier. Before he may have time to translate it, you may like to 
see it ; so to gratify you I send a translation with " notes and an- 
notations." I send you also a copy in Chinese, which is, in fact, 
more correct than the original, and is also pointed. Observe how 
very correctly the former are used. When he speaks of America, 
or of brother Roberts, or of me, he writes the characters above the 
line, and when he speaks of father, he puts the characters two 
spaces above the line, while on the contrary, the solitary charac- 
ter by which he designates himself is written small, and at one 
side, as if he felt himself unworthy to appear in the presence of 
him he speaks to. . . . 

Yours affectionately, W. M. Lowrie. 



CHINESE LETTER. 

Worthy Father. — Exalted Man. — Tranquillity — when 
the letter is opened. 

My family lives in the Southern State, ' and my eyes have not 
seen the flowery flag's 2 exuberance. I dwell in the central nation, 
but my soul has eagerly run after the excellence of that which is 
beyond the seas. Your watches, the ingenuity of whose motions is 
like the Seuenke, 3 by their goodness have robbed the heavens of 
their work. 4 Your cannon equal the terribleness of the thunder 
and the lightning : thus the fame of your far distant land has 
been transmitted [to the Celestial Empire.] You have also other 
things of such rare skill and admirable art, that the eye is not able 
to inspect them, 5 and your precious jewels and divine pearls 6 are 
such that words with difficulty can enumerate them. 

Your nephew 7 unworthily occupies the instructor's seat. Con- 
stantly near, he receives excellent information from your honor- 
able son : without any claim to enjoy this learned intimacy, he has 
often heard of the venerable father's 3 astonishing attainments. I 
have desired to cross the sea, and ascend the hills ; myself to 
roam over the unsurpassed land. One reason is, that I might 
see that great country's magnificent excellencies, — thus opening 
my eyes on prospects unseen before. 9 Another reason is, that I 

1 " Southern State:" formerly a designation of the Provinces of Canton, Puhkeen, 
Kwangsi, and Houkwang. The writer lives in Hway-Chow, in the province of 
Canton. 

2 " Flowery Flag," i. e., American ; almost the only name by which we are known. 

3 " The Seuenke" is some very superior astronomical instrument, perhaps the ar- 
millary sphere. 

i "Heaven's work," is to regulate the seisons; but our watches are so good that 
there is now no need of the heavens ! 

5 Literally, "the eye cannot receive them:" it was not made to contemplate such 
excellent things. 

6 " Precious jewels and divine pearls" are the ornaments of our houses, &c. 

7 A term showing my teacher's sense of his inferiority. 

8 " The venerable father," to wit, the person to whom he is writing. 

9 Like the countryman, never out of his own village, I have seen nothing. I wish 
to see the wonderful sights of your country. 



LETTERS. 273 

might hear the venerable superior's precious jewels, 10 thus regula- 
ting- my own heart and life. But it is not in my power. My 
family is poor and my children young, and I cannot take the Foo 
bird's rapid course. 11 I only can embrace this opportunity and 
send the fishes letter, 12 to perform the duty of asking of your 
health, and your nightly repose. 13 Accordingly the carp fish mes- 
senger 14 bears the inmost desires and inmost praises of my heart. 
May my venerable superior's body be [strong] as the hills and as 
the mountains. Yea, may my venerable superior's life be [long 
and glorious] as the sun and as the moon. 

If my venerable superior in his condescending compassion 
should favor me with a single letter, calling me to come, then 
3 r our nephew will speedily prepare for the voyage, and go with 
haste that he may respectfully hear your important commands. 

I have also heard that several of your excellent sons have in 
regular course entered the Learned Door, 15 and that you have a 
son who daily exercises himself in the Zeen and the Fun. 16 At a 
future day they will certainly possess talents to rule the world, 
and surpass the virtues of the heroic ranks. 

As to Lowrie, 17 your third honorable son, of books he has read 
more than five hundred volumes ; 18 and he is thoroughly trained 
in all the accomplishments of the six arts. 19 His name dwells 
among the ranks of modest piety, 20 and his talents surpass even 
those of the men of heaven. Your nephew's abilities are mean 
and his learning small ; how am I able to become his exemplar 1 
But the cutter of grass and the gatherer of stubble, the common 
laborer and the pedler, all have something that may be profitable 
to the Holy Sages ; and your nephew, (unworthily dwelling at 
learning's door, 21 ) therefore did not excuse himself from the West- 



10 "Venerable superior's precious jewels :" i. e., the instructions and remarks of th« 
person to whom he writes. 

11 Two friends being at a great distance, one of them collected a number of Foo 
birds, and by their means came from Pekin to Canton in three or four hours. 

*s A wife, being separated from her husband, wrote a letter and gave it to a great 
fish, which carried it safely, and delivered it to the husband. 

13 Literally, "to ask your welfare, and to ask your repose:" alluding to the duty 
of children, in the morning to inquire of their parents' health, and in the evening to see 
that everything is comfortable in their sleeping apartments. 

M A father and son being separated, and without the means of communication, the 
son dropped a letter into the river, and a carp fish carried it off. The carp being 
caught, was bought by the father, who, opening it, unexpectedly found his son's letter. 

15 " To enter the Learned Door," is to become a Sewtsae ; equivalent to our A. B. 
He refers particularly to brother Roberts. 

'6 The Zeen and the Fun are different Chinese books : he refers to brother Reuben, 
who has not yet entered Learning's Door. 

17 In this rhapsody you will hardly recognize W. M. L. 

13 I told him once that in all my life I had read probably some five hundred volumes, 
at which he was astonished. 

[ » The six arts are, the rules of Decorum, Music, Archery, Driving a carriage, Writ 
ing, and Arithmetic. 

2° " Modest piety," i. e., a Keujin, the title of their second degree of literature ; equiv- 
alent to our A. M. 

21 Being a Sewtsae. 

18 



274 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

em Seat, 32 that thus he might assist Lowrie, the elder born, 23 the 
third honorable son, in his noble observations and inquiries. 24 

With seriousness writing this, I will reverently wait to hear of 
your golden repose. Also I beg that every good thing, in all 
variety, may beam around you without cessation or limit. 
Your unworthy nephew, 

Ching 25 tsze keun, 
Bows the head2o and worships. 

Kwei Mow 27 Year, Leg month. 28 From Macao, in the province 
of Canton, it is sent. 



Macao, February 10th, 1844. 
Rev. John Lloyd — 

My Dear John : — . . . How it made my heart beat to think 
that this year I may see you here ! I fell into a reverie just now, 
and thought I was walking along the beach and you landed. 
What a shaking of hands and an embracing there was ! Then 
I began to ask you questions ; but though you talked fast, you 
did not talk half fast enough to satisfy me. . . . 

Many thanks for your long, kind letter. It is the second I have 
received, and I hope I may have another soon. I am glad my 
journal gave you so much pleasure. 

How many things we shall have to say to each other when you 
come. Yet sometimes I fear we shall not be allowed to meet ; or 
if we meet, shall have to part again ; and I feel as though I 
ought not to hope for too much. How often we are disappointed 
in the very place where we expected most ! I have learned some 
deeply painful lessons since I came here, though not more pain- 
ful than needed. 

Why do you give way so much to melancholy forebodings? 

" Why should the children of a king 
Go mourning all their days ?" 

Our gracious Father has now led you along for more than nine 
years, and are you still afraid to trust him ? How much would you 
and I have given, nine years ago, to be told we should persevere 
till now ! yet here we are. Thus far the Lord hath led us on, 
and will not he whose hand has ever been around us still lead us ? 



22 The teacher in properly arranged schools sits at the western side of the table. 

23 » Seen Sang" is literally elder born, i. e., more honorable, but it means little 
more than " Mr." 

24 " He uses my aid, as the Emperor condescends occasionally to ask the members 
of the Hanlin, or Royal College, to explain some matter." 

23 Ching. He told me at first that his name was Hwang. He had been for some 
reason advised to take that name ; but he said he could not write a feigned name to 
the venerable person to whom he was writing. 

28 Observe how small " sft,ow" is written. "It is our custom." 

27 Kwei mow is the 40th year of the cycle of sixty, which commenced in 1804. 

-2S Lee month is the 12th month, this being the last month of the present year. 



LETTERS. 275 

Can he not take as much care of us hereafter, as he has hitherto 
done ? I know, would that I felt it more, that at best we are 
very unprofitable servants ; but can we ever repay God for his 
mercies ? must we not at last enter heaven in the righteousness 
of another ? Oh let us look to Christ, in whom is all our strength 
and hope ; and while we labor, never forget that we are accepted, 
not in our own works, but in the beloved. 

I am very well, very busy, and commonly very happy. Chinese 
is beginning to look inviting, and many a hearty laugh I have 
with my Chinese teacher. He does not speak a word of English, 
and my Chinese is broken enough ; but we make out pretty well 
on a good many points. Do not be afraid of this language. It is 
hard enough, but can be learned. 

Give my kindest regards to Brown and Culbertson, whom I ex- 
pect to see with you before this year rolls away. The sooner you 
come the better, for I suppose I must be unsettled till you all 
come out, and I am getting tired of that ; so be in a hurry. 

It is nearly ten o'clock. My hand is so tired, that I can scarcely 
write legibly, and if I had five hundred things to say, they would 
have to stay unsaid. . . . 

Commending you to God and the word of his grace, which is 
able to build you up and keep you until the appearing of our 
Lord, I am as ever your brother in Christ, 

W. M. Lowrie. 

Macao, April 19th, 1844. 
My Dear Mother — 

.... I am very well, and very busy. The weeks fly away, I 
scarcely know where ; but the worst is, I do not seem to be doing 
much. You speak of my laboring so directly for the Redeemer's 
cause, but it does not appear so here. On the contrary, it seems 
to me as though I were shut out from the opportunity of direct 
exertions. Perhaps it is best it should be so, that I may have an 
opportunity of tarrying at Jericho till my beard be grown ! I 
would be glad indeed if we had some able men of judgment and 
experience here. But do not think that I am unhappy or discon- 
tented, or that I regret coming, because I thus Avrite, for I never 
was happier in my life, nor better satisfied to be anything, or 
nothing, or to go anywhere that the Lord may choose to send 
me, than at this time. I do long sometimes to be where I can 
speak of Christ oftener ; and I look with almost envy at the lot 
of some who are settled over churches : but I would not change 
with anybody, for the providence of God has led me here ; and I 
trust will lead me still. My only anxiety is to know where it is 
the will of providence to lead me, and to be always ready to 
follow that will. 

What has become of that old and very black negro, who used 
to carry straw about the streets in New York, and to cry it in 



276 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

such a peculiarly plaintive tone 1 There is a Chinese seller of 
sugar-cane, who goes about here at night, and whom I hear very 
often, whose voice, in the distance, sounds just like the old negro's. 
A great deal of sugar-cane is eaten by the people here. It is 
brought in from the country in large bundles, and sold to pedlers, 
who cut it up into pieces about eight or nine inches long. Many 
of them go about the streets, with a couple of boxes slung on a 
pole, and carried over the shoulder. In one box they have the 
sugar-cane, and in the other a small furnace, and a kettle of hot 
water, in which they steep the pieces of cane, and deliver them 
hot to their customers. The price is about a cash, or perhaps 
two, for a stick. . . . 

Affectionately yours, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, May 14th, 1844. 
My Dear Father — 

.... My letters to the committee will have shown you how 
often I am embarrassed and at a loss how to decide the various 
important questions occurring here. / wish you would come out 
here ; you will find enough to call into exercise all your experi- 
ence. You may lay the foundations of this mission on a better 
basis than we who are here can do. My wish is to be prudent 
and thoughtful, and to do all for the best ; but I am young and 
inexperienced, yet I have more experience of the Chinese than 
any of my colleagues. I have no disposition to decline respon- 
sibility, and have frequently to take more than my share. What 
can we do? There are things which must be done, and our 
fears are that they may not be done in the best way. You 
are not yet sixty years old, yet Ricci was fifty when he came to 
China ; and you have had ten years of thought about this coun- 
try, and are younger in constitution than most men of the same 
age. Your coming might do more good than for twenty boys to 
go abroad before their constitutions are settled, and who may die 
before they come to their prime. It often seems to me that we 
are commencing at the top instead of the bottom, when we lay 
light and untried materials in the foundation. If you can come 
for life so much the better, but at any rate come for Jive years. 
Live here and spy out the land. I have not made this request in 
a spirit of levity, but after a good deal of thought and prayer. I 
know how important your presence is at head-quarters, and I 
know you will consider the matter calmly. God will direct you ; 
and for myself, I will remember what the old farmer said, " I 
can't go with you, but God Almighty will." 

My teacher was reading the New Testament to-day, when he 
observed, " This Jesus must have been a very benevolent man. 
How kind it was in him to heal those sick people, and to provide 
them food when they were hungry ! Truly he was a good man." 



LETTERS. 277 

" Yes," I observed, " he was all you say, and far more, for he was 
God as well as man, and came from heaven to save sinful men, 
and without him no man in the world can be saved." " What !" 
said he, " can none be saved in China without him ?" " No, not 
one." " Do you believe this ?" he asked. " Yes, most certainly ; 
and I have left my father and mother, to come to China to tell 
you of this blessed Saviour." "And how long has this been 
known to the Western nations?" "O, a great many hundred 
years." " Why, then," said he, " was not this knowledge sent 
sooner to China ?".... — a solemn question for every Christian. . . . 
I am your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, August 18th, 1844. 
Rev. Levi Janvier — 

Your kind letter of Sept. 29 has been on hand for some time. 
I have been by many reasons prevented from answering it sooner. 
It came when I was much more than ordinarily busy. I had to 
assist Mr. Cole and Dr. McCartee in all their plans, who had just 
come out ; and the time required in assisting Mr. Cole with his 
printing office was very great. For several months I gave from 
eight to ten hours a day, and sometimes more, to my Chinese 
studies, and to preparing Chinese lists of characters for the print- 
ing office. I have also had to preach in English nearly every Sab- 
bath, and as I have not learned to read other men's sermons with 
any satisfaction, it took much time to prepare for this. And as to 
correspondence, you know how much of it must be done, and I 
have all along had my full share. In addition, it has been our 
warm season ever since your letter came. There, I won't enlarge ; 
you will probably not be very angry that I have not written sooner, 
and I will give you a little news, such as we have. 

You may have heard that the Siamese mission is suspended. 
Mrs. Buell's health failed last winter, and though she recovered 
somewhat, yet the doctor insisted on her going home. Just about 
then Mr. and Mrs. Way came out, but being young, they did not 
want to go on alone ; and they came to the conclusion, all things 
considered, to give up that mission, and have him come here, while 
Mr. and Mrs. Buell went home. Mr. Way arrived here in July, 
and very soon after started for Ningpo. I have not yet heard of 
his arrival at that place. At present we are stationed thus : Mr. 
and Mrs. Cole and the printing office are here. This is only a 
temporary station, and we are quite uncertain how long it shall 
be retained. We do almost no direct missionary work here, but 
occupy ourselves in the study of the language, and getting the 
press going. Mr. C. is now printing an edition of 5000 copies of 
Ephesians, and has two or three other works under weigh. So 
much is yet to be done to perfect the type, that we do not expect 
to do very much printing for several months. I have myself al- 



27'8 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

most no doubt of the success of the plan of printing with metallic 
divisible type, and its finally triumphing over all others ; but it 
may be a year or two before we get everything perfectly arranged. 
Mr. C. has as yet done little in learning the language, and I can not 
say much more for myself; though still I have learned enough to 
talk with my teacher with some ease, and have had many inter- 
esting discussions with him on religious subjects. We have read 
over together half the Gospel of Matthew, and he has been at times 
deeply interested in it, and the imperfect explanations I have been 
able to give him. It is my purpose, Deo volente, to go up the 
coast to Ningpo or Chusan, either this fall or next spring, with a 
view to remain there permanently. I should have gone long ago, 
if it had not been necessary to remain here and assist the new- 
comers. 

At Amoy we have Dr. and Mrs. Hepburn, who are much pleased 
with the prospects there. It is a very interesting field. At Ningpo 
we have Dr. McCartee, and Mr. and Mrs. Way, who I hope are 
there ere now. This we purpose making our chief mission in 
China. We look for five more missionaries this year, of whom one 
will probably remain here, either temporarily or permanently. 
One or two go to Amoy, and the remainder to Ningpo. Such 
are our plans now ; but I am often brought to think that man's 
heart deviseth his way, but the Lord directeth his steps. It may 
be that all our plans shall be frustrated. But these things give 
me little anxiety. The work is the Lord's, and must succeed, and 
he uses all these instrumentalities in the way he deems best, and 
certainly in the wisest way. " Behold these from the Land of Si- 
nim !" It is a very pleasant thing to have a special prophecy for 
the land in which one labors, and whether the above prophecy re- 
fers to the conversion of the pagan Chinese, or to the return of the 
Chinese Jews to the promised land, (for there is a colony of Jews, 
that has subsisted in the heart of China since B. C. 258,) it is 
equally cheering to the heart of the believer. 

.... Things are very quiet here. The drought in the early 
part of the season, and the rains in the after part, have greatly 
injured the crop, and there is much suffering among the poor. 

.... My own health continues excellent, and I hope I am now 
pretty well acclimated ; but the climate at Ningpo, where I wish 
to go, is not so favorable as that of Macao, and I may have ano- 
ther seasoning to undergo. But sufficient unto the day is the evil 
thereof. I rejoice heartily that I came here, though it was sadly 
against my own will at first. Poor Africa ! Sawyer, you will have 
heard, is dead ! If I had not felt so strongly that it was Provi- 
dence that sent me here, I should be almost tempted to offer to go 
there yet ; for of all missionary fields, that seems to be the one 
where there is most hope of a speedy and abundant harvest. In 
India you are met by a system of caste, and here we are held off 
by a language that few have ever mastered. How difficult it is 
to maintain one's spirituality amidst the dry toils of dictionaries 



RECOLLECTIONS OF A MISSIONARY. 279 

and grammars. Yet the grace of our Lord Jesus can soften all 
these, and I can truly say, that amidst every obstacle and discour- 
agement, the period of my missionary life has been the happiest. 
It would be a bitter trial to me now, to be obliged to return to the 
United States. 

Yours in Christian affection, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



RECOLLECTIONS OF A MISSIONARY. NO. I. 

— It was a very hot day in August, 184-, and I was lying on 
a couch, suffering from debility induced by the heat of a tropical 
summer. While thus reclining, the physician of the place, a seri- 
ous and moral man, but at that time making no profession of 
piety, called to see me. He said he had a patient recently brought 
from a neighboring city, and dangerously ill of a disease at that 
time prevailing, who expressed a wish to see an evangelical cler- 
gyman ; and that he, (the physician.) would be much pleased if I 
would call on him. I went immediately, and on being shown 
into the sick room, found a young looking man, who held out his 
hand and expressed much gratification that I had called. His 
Bible was lying on a chair at his bedside, and it was not many 
minutes before he had told me fully and frankly his state and feel- 
ings. He was the son of a pious man, who had done much for 
the cause of missions in his own land. He himself had united 
with the Church in his youth, and for several years maintained a 
fair character, and thought himself a Christian. Of late how- 
ever, and especially since coming to this heathen land, he had 
greatly backslidden, and as he said, had so far forgotten his pro- 
fession as to fall into open sin. While in this state he was at- 
tacked with a disease which had already proved fatal to several 
persons ; and though there was at first nothing very alarming in 
his own case, yet it had aroused him to think on his ways, and 
the Spirit of God seemed to have brought his sins strongly to his 
remembrance. 

When I saw him he was in great distress, fearing lest he had 
committed the unpardonable sin, and that there could be no hope 
for him. A few minutes' conversation showed that the instruc- 
tions of his excellent father had sunk deep into his heart, and that 
he w T as tolerably well acquainted with the doctrines of religion, 
so that it was an easy and a pleasant duty to give him the in- 
structions his case required. Doubtless there are those in our 
days who commit a sin for which there is no repentance, and for 
which we are not commanded to pray ; but there was no evidence 
that such was his case, and on this point his mind was relieved. 
He feared, however, that he was not one of the elect, — could there 
be hope for him ? I told him my belief in the doctrine of election 
was as firm as my belief in my own existence, but God's secret 



280 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

decrees were not the rule of our faith and practice. Repent and 
believe, and be saved ; let him make his calling sure, and the 
question of his election need not trouble his mind. To this he 
freely assented, and then with tears in his eyes, and the utmost 
earnestness, asked if I thought it possible God could or would for- 
give so vile a backslider as himself. Taking up his Bible, I 
opened it at the beautiful passage in the fourteenth chapter of 
Hosea : " Take with you words and turn unto the Lord : say 
unto him, Take away all iniquity, and receive us graciously, &c," 
and read and explained the whole chapter. Never did it appea 1- 
so rich and precious to my own soul, and the sick man heard L 
with entranced attention. When it was finished, he exclaimed, 
" What precious words those are ! Will you not pray with me ?" 
After prayer, and a little further conversation, I left him, promis- 
ing to see him again in the evening. 

About sunset I called again, and found his disorder making 
rapid progress, so that occasionally he seemed to be wandering in 
mind. But his thoughts were on his soul's concerns, and towards 
Christ ; his mind was calmer than when I first saw him, and 
though he expressed much fear of death, yet he seemed to appre- 
hend fully that the grace of Christ was his only refuge, and I 
could not but hope that his faith was fixed on the Saviour ; and 
with a mind much lightened in regard to him, I returned to my 
room. The exposure and exertions of the day in my weak state 
were too much for me, and a sleepless night left me with but little 
strength in the morning. As the day proved stormy, it seemed 
imprudent to venture out, and accordingly I wrote a note to the 
physician, requesting him to inform me if his patient should wish 
for me, as otherwise I could scarcely leave the house. The kind- 
hearted physician himself had some conversation with him, and 
finding him in the intervals of his delirium, to be much more 
peaceful, and apparently hopeful, did not send for me. He died 
in the night, and when I called early the next morning I found 
him laid out, with an expression of countenance like one who had 
gone in peace. 

Among strangers, we buried him in a stranger's grave ; for ex- 
cepting the physician and myself, there were none in the place 
who knew him. He had but recently arrived in this country, and 
as we found in a day or two after, his partner died of the same 
disease on the same day, 

Soon after his death I wrote to his mother his father being 
dead an account of his last moments, and of the hope I had that 
"the root of the matter was found in him." Several months 
passed away, and amidst other events the above was almost for- 
gotten, when one day a small package from a distant land came 
into my hands. It contained a beautiful copy of the memoir of 
Mr. Cheyne, and a note breathing " the most heartfelt gratitude," 
and the assurance of " earnest and constant prayer for my wel- 
fare." For some reason unknown to me, the writer wished to be 



RECOLLECTIONS OF A MISSIONARY. 281 

unknown; but I could not avoid associating her, (for it was a 
lady's hand,) with the person spoken of above. Is it not true that 
bread cast upon the waters is found after many days — and that 
often in a way not anticipated ? The parents of that young man 
" bestowed much labor" in forwarding the cause of missions, and 
the dying hours of their son were cheered and consoled in a strange 
land by a missionary of a different country, and a different de- 
nomination. I went in weakness to visit him, without a thought 
of reward, but how often has the thought cheered me since, that 
in a distant land there is one or more whom I have never seen, 
whose fervent prayers are offered up on my behalf. 



RECOLLECTIONS OF A MISSIONARY. NO. II. 

In December, 184-, I was requested to visit a dying ship captain. 
This was Saturday evening. I went immediately, and on enter- 
ing the house where he lay, found an elderly man in the last 
stages of consumption. He was a pious man, and amidst all the 
temptations and annoyances to which such persons in his situa- 
tion are exposed, had in good measure kept himself free from re- 
proach, and had made his ship a house of God upon the sea. Of 
late he had been quite unwell, and was brought ashore to the 
house of the consignee of his ship, where it is to be feared there 
%as little care or respect for religion. Being a stranger, he did 
not know there were any missionaries in the place, and it was not 
till this day that he was informed that there were. One of the 
boys from his ship was attending him with the faithfulness of a 
son ; and finding that he was drawing near his end, informed him 
that I was residing not far off, and had me sent for. 

He was not able to bear much conversation : but the little I 
had was satisfactory, and he appeared exceedingly grateful to 
have met a fellow-believer to speak with him in his last hours. 
After prayer I left him, promising to call again. The next after- 
noon, while administering the Lord's Supper to the little band of 
fellow-laborers, and fellow-Christians in that place, I received a 
hasty summons to see him. On going to the house, I found the 
yard just before his window filled with native workmen, in the 
employ of the Christian owner of the house, busily packing and 
nailing boxes for a ship's cargo ! Passing through the crowd, so 
unseemly on such day, and in such a place, I went to the sick 
man's room, but found him nearly speechless. He knew me, 
grasped me by the hand, and to my inquiries as to the state of 
his soul, gave me to understand though more by looks than by 
words, that all was well within. After a short prayer he fell into 
a doze, from which he did not again return to consciousness, and 
in a few hours his spirit departed. To him I have no reason to 
doubt heaven was as near even in that land of strangers and 
heathenism as though he had died among his friends. The next 



282 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

day he was buried. A part of the ship's crew, one or two of the 
merchants of the place, and myself, were the only spectators ; and 
few or none of those who now read the inscription over his tomb, 
in the field that was " bought to bury strangers in," have any 
knowledge of the person who sleeps beneath. Many such graves 
are there, for many have come from far distant lands to rest 
there. 

"He that watereth others shall be watered himself;" and in the 
pleasure that this event afforded me, I found the first mitigation 
of one of the greatest sorrows that a gracious God has ever been 
pleased to lay upon me. 

At another time I was called to visit another ship captain, but 
my memory recalls few of the circumstances connected with the 
occasion, except the following : After his decease, at his request, a 
sum of money, amounting to about twenty dollars, was put into 
my hands for any charitable purpose to which I might choose to 
apply it. On the very day it was received, a poor heathen woman, 
one of whose sons had been of some service to a fellow-missionary, 
came to me to beg for assistance in the case of another son, who 
was afflicted with the leprosy. She was in great distress : for the 
neighbors, apprehensive of catching the disease, had told her she 
must either place him in the hospital for such cases, or else leave 
her house, and seek another abode. She was poor, and knew not 
where else to find a house, and to place him in the hospital re- 
quired an admission fee of twenty dollars, a sum she could not, 
hope to borrow, nor to earn for many months. It seemed a provi- 
dence : the money just sent was at once placed at her disposal, 
and with a light heart she went on her way rejoicing. 

But a few weeks before leaving the place where I had been re- 
siding for more than two years, I was requested to visit another 
ship captain, who had been brought ashore with a dangerous ill- 
ness, and was supposed to be near his end. Unlike the one men- 
tioned in the first part of this paper, the owner of this house was 
seriously disposed, and had not only spoken faithfully to the sick 
man himself, but induced him to send for a clergyman. On being 
shown into his room, he seemed very glad to see me ; but 1 was 
painfully impressed with the eagerness he expressed for " comfort." 
He was a well-educated, intelligent man, and had thought some 
for himself; but I was sorry to find, was quite skeptically disposed. 
He could not believe that mankind were so bad as clergymen 
commonly thought they were. He could scarcely believe that the 
Son of God had come down to suffer for the inhabitants of this 
petty world, which was, in the greatness of the universe, " but as 
a single leaf in the forest." Surprised at these remarks, I asked 
if he were not a believer in revelation. "Oh yes," said he ; " yes, 
but sometimes these thoughts will come into my mind." I be- 
sought him to exchange these thoughts for others better suited to 
his situation, and after some further conversation and prayer, left 
him with my mind ill at ease ; for all his anxieties seemed to be for 



LETTERS. 283 

comfort, and none for pardon and reconciliation with God. Yet 
he professed much gratitude, and begged me to call again. I did 
so in a day or two, and found his disorder had taken a favorable 
turn, and with it his seriousness had nearly gone. It was difficult 
to induce him to speak of his soul ; but having no reason to hope 
that he would recover, as his physician thought the disease would 
soon return, I endeavored as faithfully as possible to warn him of 
his state and prospects. He listened politely, but with little inter- 
est, until a fit of coughing seized him, and I thought it best not 
to say more. I called once or twice after, but he declined seeing 
me, and the gentleman of the house with whom he was staying, 
told me that as soon as he began to think himself getting better, 
his thoughts returned to earthly things. Poor man ! A few days 
after this, he embarked in a vessel for his native land, and the 
next notice I had of him was, that he died soon after getting out 
to sea, and was buried in the ocean. 



Macao, December 27th, 1844. 
Rev. John M. Lowrie — 

My Dear Cousin : — Since April, 1843, I have preached in 
English, once a week, to a small congregation of English and 
Americans, some of whom are pious. It is the custom of most of 
the missionaries just to take printed sermons and read them off, 
which is well known by the people. I have done so myself sev- 
eral times, but never liked the plan, nor felt comfortable in adopt- 
ing it. As the people who attend are very intelligent, I found it 
required a good deal of care to prepare sermons that would be pro- 
fitable ; and that I could give most instruction in the fewest 
words, and with least labor to myself, by writing out my sermons. 
I have done this commonly, and have now nearly fifty written 
discourses, besides several skeletons. As I lost all my written 
sermons when shipwrecked, the preparation of these has been at- 
tended with some degree of labor, and takes as much time as I 
can at present afford to give. I felt, indeed, some scruple about 
giving so much time to a work not directly the one for which I 
came here, but felt satisfied about it on considering that I am still 
young, and the labor and study of preparing sermons would be 
of essential benefit to me ; and 1 have found it so. Preaching is 
a very delightful work, and I have only regretted that I could not 
give more time to it. . . . 

It was a great disappointment to Lloyd and myself not to be 
together, but it seemed to be clearly the will of Providence that 
we should deny ourselves that gratification, and it is quite uncer- 
tain whether we shall ever see each other again. x4s it was, we 
could be together less than two weeks, and in that time I did not 
learn half as much as I wanted. Hugh Brown, too, will go to 
the same station with Lloyd, and as Happer will be at Hong Kong, 



284 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

I shall be " a stranger in the earth." So be it ! It is good to feel 

that this is not our home, nor our rest 

I am your affectionate cousin, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Macao, December 28th, 1844. 
Rev. James Montgomery — 

My Dear Brother : — Your letter of January 15th, which 
came to hand August 6th, gave me great pleasure, for it told me 
that though you had not written, your heart was still unchanged. 
I observed one thing in it, which has struck me in a number of 
other letters I have received. Speaking of my shipwreck, you re- 
mark, that you. could scarce help thinking that I was preserved 
for some great end in this part of the world. The same idea has 
been expressed to me by several other of my correspondents, and 
I can sometimes scarcely avoid thinking it may be so ; and yet 
the thought of it almost makes me tremble, for what a responsi- 
bility does it throw upon me, and what a foreshadowing, so to 
speak, is there in such an expectation of great trials and conflicts ? 
It is through much tribulation we must enter into the kingdom 
of heaven. It is in the way of " much tribulation" that great good 
is commonly effected; and if I am to be the instrument of good 
here, I cannot expect to avoid trials and sorrows, greater perhaps 
by far than any that have yet come upon me. I do not murmur 
at this. If I know my own heart, I do not wish to shrink from 
any cross or any burden God sees good or needful to lay upon me ; 
but oh ! how much do I need grace, yea, " more grace," to fit me 
for the trials of my work here. Pray for me, that when having 
done all and suffered all, I may stand accepted in the merits of 
Jesus Christ. I have had some little experience of tribulation 
since leaving the United States. I have known what it is to bear 
with long delays and hopes deferred, making the heart sick. I 
have gone through perils on the deep, and have been tried with 
the perversities and waywardness of some who had made the 
warmest professions of attachment. 

Whither do all these things tend ? Is the trial over yet, or am 
I to go through the furnace again ? Dear Brother, I confess my 
heart sometimes trembles when I ask myself these questions. For 
after all this sifting, and searching, and refining, I still find so 
much of dross and impurity, that I sometimes think the furnace 
must be made " one seven times hotter," before I am fit for my 
work. If I have a work to do here, God will certainly prepare me 
for it. I do not wish to shrink from the preparation, but I do feel 
that without more grace I cannot endure it. Yet I dare not give 
way to fear. Hitherto the Lord hath helped me. In every trial 
hitherto, grace has been sufficient, and shall I not trust him for 
the future ? And when I look back I am obliged to say, that not- 
withstanding all the sorrows I have felt since leaving the United 



LETTERS. 285 

States, no period of my life has been so happy as the last three 
years. As the sufferings have abounded, so have the consolations ; 
and were it not for some undefined anticipations of the future, I 
should be ashamed to speak of my sorrows that are past at all. . . . 
Surely it is a wonder of sovereign grace, that God saves any of 
such a sinful race as ours is ! We fight against him, and provoke 
him, even when he has shown us his love. 

We have now a pretty large mission here, and I trust will soon 
be settled and all at work. Cannot you come ? I should rejoice 
to have you with me ; and I can assure you that I do not think 
your age a sufficient reason for not coming, if you have no other. 
Farewell, pray for me, and believe me, 

Ever yours, in Christian bonds, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



CHAPTER VII. 

1845. 

DIFFERENT MISSIONS ESTABLISHED — LEAVES MACAO — VOYAGE UP THE COAST 
— NINGPO — CHINESE WRITTEN AND SPOKEN LANGUAGES. 

During this year the missions of the Presbyterian Church in 
China began to assume a more settled form. In the first part of 
the year, the missionaries had all reached their respective stations, 
and commenced their work under favorable and encouraging cir- 
cumstances. In April, Messrs. Culbertson and Lowrie arrived at 
Ningpo, and Mr. Loomis at Tinghai, on the island of Chusan ; 
and in July the printing-press was removed to Ningpo. In May, 
the Rev. H. A. Brown reached Amoy. During the year, a boys' 
boarding-school was commenced at Macao, and another at Ningpo, 
under circumstances of much promise. During the summer, their 
number was lessened by the return home of Dr. Hepburn and his 
wife, on account of the failure of Mrs. Hepburn's health. This 
was a great trial to the mission at Amoy. Dr. Hepburn had ac- 
quired a knowledge of the Chinese language, and was greatly 
esteemed both by the native population and foreign residents. 

The missionary labors of the year at Ningpo, the description of 
the country, and the general aspects of this new field of labor are 
so fully related in the letters and journals of this period, that noth- 
ing further need be added here. 

In connection with the account of the missions in China, it is 
proper to notice the Edict of the Emperor, dated 28th December, 
1844, giving full toleration for the exercises of the Christian re- 
ligion. This remarkable document is one of the great events of 
the age. It was granted at the request of M. Lagrene, the French 
ambassador, on a memorial to the Emperor, from Keying, the 
Imperial Commissioner. It gives full toleration to all who profess 
the religion of Tien Chu, or the Lord of Heaven. This is the 
term used by the Roman Catholic missionaries to denote the 
Christian religion, and when the edict was issued, it was consid- 



LETTERS. 287 

ered sufficiently comprehensive to embrace the Christian religion 
as professed by Protestants. 

By later proceedings of the civil authorities, this construction 
appeared to be erroneous. On the 2d of November, 1845, procla- 
mations were issued by the authority of the Imperial Commis- 
sioner, and the Lieutenant Governor of Canton, stating " that the 
religion of the Lord of Heaven consists in periodically assembling 
for unitedly worshipping the Lord of Heaven, in respecting and 
venerating the cross, with pictures and images, as well as in read- 
ing aloud the works of said religion." 

By this explanation Protestants were excluded from the benefits 
of the edict of toleration, and much dissatisfaction was felt and 
expressed at this restriction. But this feeling was of short dura- 
tion. On the 22d of December, 1845, Keying, the Imperial Com- 
missioner, in a letter to the Consul of the United States, at Canton, 
states, " that some local magistrates had made improper seizures, 
taking and destroying crosses, pictures, and images, and after 
deliberation it was agreed that these might be reverenced. Orig- 
inally, I did not know that there were among the nations these 
differences in their religious practices. Now, with regard to the 
religion of the Lord of Heaven, no matter whether the crosses, 
pictures, and images, be reverenced or not reverenced, all who, 
acting well, practice it, ought to be held blameless. All the great 
western nations being placed on an equal footing, only let them 
acting well practice their religion, and China will in no way pro- 
hibit or impede their so doing. Whether their customs be alike 
or unlike, certainly it is right that there should be no distinction, 
and no obstruction." 

Thus did this subject come three times before the civil authori- 
ties of China, and the important distinction between Protestants 
and Roman Catholics was thus brought to their notice ; and much 
to the credit of the Chinese government, all are equally protected. 



Hong Kong, February 12th, 1845. 
My Dear Father — 

Your very welcome letter of August 30th, came to hand last 
Sabbath, being the first I have received from you for four months, 
the longest period of not hearing, since my first letters reached me. 
It does begin to appear as if years had elapsed since I saw you. 
Letters written home and answers received, answers written back, 
and replies to those answers received, and soon I shall have re- 
plies to these last. 



£00 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

Having finished all I had to do in Macao, I left that place Jan- 
uary 21st, and came here to take passage for Chusan. I expect 
to have as a fellow-passenger, the Rev. T. McClatchie, missionary 
of the Church Missionary Society, of whom I have formed a very 
good opinion. The Rev. George Smith, his colleague, is in very 
poor health, and I fear can do no more than visit the different 
ports, and then return to England. I shall regret this exceeding- 
ly, for I have conceived a very high opinion of him. The connec- 
tion of these excellent men with the Established Church of Eng- 
land gives them much influence with the people from England in 
China ; but at the same time it requires them to be doubly cautious 
not to give any ground of complaint against themselves. On this 
subject, however, I feel daily that we have reason for gratitude in 
our American citizenship, and the perfect freedom of the Church 
from all connection with the State. It is not by might nor by 
power, but by God's Spirit that our work is to be done. May God 
grant the time soon to come when the kingdoms of this world shall 
become the kingdoms of our Lord Jesus Christ. 

I have never heard you express any opinion about the Millena- 
rian scheme. But a remark you once made, " I think the Millen- 
ium will be only a great revival of religion," leads me to suppose 
either that you had not then examined it, or thought unfavorably 
of it. I have paid a good deal of attention to it of late, and with- 
out being able to say I am convinced, I must say that my former 
opinions are greatly shaken. That the Jews will be restored to 
their own country I firmly believe. 

I wish you would examine the whole subject and let me know 
what you think of it. The common opinion against this view is, 
that it cuts the sinews of missionary effort. I do not feel this. 
Several of the missionaries in China are Millenarians ; and look- 
ing at it as I do, I feel that if I could think it true, it would give 
me an additional inducement to the great work of preaching the 
Gospel, and additional hopes of immediate success. 

February 14. Messrs. Loomis and Culbertson are going in the 
Isabella Ann, to sail the 19th. I have taken passage in the 
Rob Roy, to sail the 16th. I have been detained here a long 
time, and it is important that I go up north as soon as possible. 
I trust it will be the last voyage I may have to take for many 
years to come. I have no fears as to the result of it, though 
I confess I should not be surprised if I were landed in Japan. 
" Man's heart deviseth his way, but the Lord directeth his steps." 
Your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



THE VOYAGE UP THE COAST. 

Macao, January 19th, 1845. 
It is three years to-day since I left my father's house. Many 
changes have come over me since then ; trials and afflictions have 



JOURNAL. 2S9 

befallen me, but out of them all the Lord hath delivered me, and 
having obtained help of him I continue to this day. For nearly 
two years I have been preaching to a small congregation of 
English and Americans, once every Sabbath. To-day I preached 
my last sermon to them, and bade them farewell. How many of 
them shall I meet in peace at the great day of reckoning ? As far 
as they are concerned at least, I feel myself pure from their blood. 
[ have not shunned to declare unto them the whole counsel of 
God. And to some at least it has been a blessing ; would that 
the same could be said of all ! 

January 21st, 1845. I bade farewell to Macao, and turned my 
face to the north. It was not without apprehensions that I con- 
templated another voyage, and that against the strong north-east 
monsoon, for nearly every voyage I have made since arriving in 
China has been attended with disaster, and not a few of my friends 
shook their heads ominously when I spoke of tempting the sea 
again. Yet the path of duty seemed clear. Nothing further of 
any consequence remained for me to do in Macao, and it was de- 
sirable on several accounts, that I should as speedily as possible 
proceed to Ningpo. Committing my way, therefore, to that God 
who had heretofore led me, even through the deep waters, and 
preserved me in the most imminent perils, and led me by paths 
that I knew not, I left Macao, a place that had become endeared 
to me by many associations and recollections. 

It was far from my intention to have spent so long a time in 
Macao ; but various intimations of Providence had kept me there 
nearly two years and a half. How many events have occurred in 
that time! When I arrived, there was war between England 
and China, and most men thought it would be of long continu- 
ance. Yet in a few months the war was ended, a treaty of peace 
was negotiated, and five ports in China were thrown open to for- 
eigners. Extravagant hopes began to fill men's minds, and many 
expectations were indulged, which have not been realized. When 
the supplementary treaty was signed, (Oct. 8th, 1843,) boasts long 
and loud were uttered, and hopes rose yet higher. But had men 
been wise and studied God's law and providence, they must have 
seen there was reason to fear that treaty could not prosper. The 
Christian Plenipotentiary who negotiated it, agreed to the propo- 
sal of a Heathen Statesman, and signed it on the Lord's day ! 
There was all the parade and circumstance of military pomp, and 
men in their joy forgot that there is a God who will not suffer his 
law to be violated with impunity. This treaty, far less than the 
treaty of Nanking, has satisfied the expectations at first formed. 
Rather it has bitterly disappointed them, for some of its clauses 
have nearly crushed the commercial importance of Hong Kong. 

What changes and accessions in our own mission ! I have 
seen McBryde go home, and have welcomed here, Hepburn and 
Cole, and McCartee and Way, and Loomis and Lloyd, and Cul- 
bertson and Happer. Several of them are already settled in their 

19 



290 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

appointed stations, and now our Chinese mission, after various 
fluctuations, wears a more settled and promising aspect, than at 
any former time. 

What changes in the other missions ! Mrs. Boone and Mrs. 
Dean, Mr. Dyer, Mr. Morrison,* Mrs. Ball and Mrs. Shuck, have 
gone to their reward. Some have gone home on visits, one no 
more to return. Others have come in their places. More than 
half the missionaries now in China have arrived within the last 
three years, though of these several had been laboring in other 
parts for the Chinese. It has been a time of breaking up and set- 
tling down again ; but like the sea whose waters heave, even 
when the storm has died away, there is a heaving and a motion 
yet. What shall the end of these things be ? Little do we know, 
and still less can we foresee, but " the Lord reigneth, let the earth 
rejoice." Whatever changes may occur, all shall accomplish good. 
" I will overturn and overturn and overturn until he come, whose 
right it is : and I will give it him." — Ezek. xxi. 27. 

Comparatively few vessels sail for the northern ports of China 
during the N. E. monsoon, and I was detained nearly a month in 
Hong Kong. Yet the delay, though tedious, was not unpleasant, 
for there were many friends there, and letters from home brought 
me cheering news. At length I succeeded in getting a berth on 
board the Rob Roy. She is a clipper bark, built in Calcutta, to 
trade between India and China. The captain and mates are 
English, and her crew a motley mixture of Bengalis, Malays, 
Manila men, with one or two Arabs, two Chinese, and a Portu- 
guese from Goa, who is the blackest man on board. 

I regretted much that the vessel sailed to-day, which is the 
Sabbath, but this I could not prevent ; all my baggage of course 
was put on board vesterday, and had she sailed early in the morn- 
ing, I should have slept on board. But knowing that there 
would be much bustle and confusion, I thought I could spend 
the Sabbath morning more profitably on shore. Got a note from 
the captain, saying she would leave anchorage at eleven, a. m. ; 
so about ten I bade my kind friends farewell, and came on 
board. It looks but little like the Sabbath here. The men were 
washing the decks, officers busy, merchants and clerks from the 
town on board, and altogether it was far, far from pleasant. 
Shortly after eleven we started, but were detained nearly two 
hours in getting out of the harbor, by the consignees not having 
all the papers ready. How little of the Sabbath was kept by the 
consignees, officers, and sixty-three Lascars and other persons con- 
cerned in the sailing of this single vessel ! 

We left Hong Kong on the 16th of February, with a fair wind, 
which carried us out of the harbor, but it soon fell calm, and then 
we had the N. E. monsoon directly in our teeth. Our vessel is a 

* Although Mr. Morrison was not a missionary himself, he was one of our warmest 
friends, and his death was as much a loss to the missionaries, as to anv other class in 
■China. 



JOURNAL. 291 

very fast sailer, and consequently in " beating passages," very wet, 
and her deck was seldom dry. On the 18th we passed immense 
numbers of fishing-boats ; I counted one hundred and ninety-five 
at one time in sight, and that was not nearly all. We kept close 
along the Chinese coast for several days, beating against the wind, 
and making tolerably good progress. After reaching Breakei 
Point, we stretched across the Formosa Channel. The wind was 
strong, and the sea high, and for two or three days we were 
uncomfortable enough. In eight days after leaving the port, 
we saw the high land on the southern end of Formosa. A 
whole day was spent in beating about there, and then, getting a 
favorable breeze, we sailed " in a smother of foam," into the wide 
Pacific Ocean. As we saw it, it did not correspond with its name, 
for the restless heaving, and rolling, and tossing of the waves, agi- 
tated as they were by a strong wind, was anything but peaceful. 
The wind and current still favoring us, we were soon as far on 
our way as the northern end of Formosa. It is rather remark- 
able that while a strong current sets to the southward on the 
western side of Formosa, there is a current in the opposite direc- 
tion on the east. The reason probably is, that the N. E. monsoon 
drives a large body of water from the Yellow and Eastern seas, 
down the Formosa Channel ; and to supply the deficiency thus 
caused, a current sets up from the eastern side of the same island. 
We passed several islands on our route, but they were small and 
rocky, and most probably barren. Of Formosa itself we saw noth- 
ing after the first day. This large and populous island, which 
may be called the granary of some of the eastern provinces of 
China, is as yet without the presence of any missionary, either 
Protestant or Roman Catholic. The western part is under the 
dominion of the Emperor of China, but the inhabitants of the 
mountains in the centre have not been subdued, and the eastern 
shore is almost unknown. 

We were so much favored in the first part of our voyage that 
we reached the latitude of the Chusan islands in sixteen days, 
which at this season of the year is a very quick run ; but the re- 
mainder of our voyage was not so speedy. We had then less 
than two hundred miles further to go, but a succession of baffling 
head winds caused us to spend a whole week in going that short 
distance. It was not till Tuesday, March 11, that we cast anchor 
at Woosung, twenty-three days after leaving Hong Kong. In the 
favorable monsoon the voyage is made with ease in less than ten 
days. It was a very rough voyage, and except in urgent cases 
should not be attempted, especially by females. The roughness 
of the passage renders it nearly impossible to spend one's time 
profitably, and three or four weeks, or even five, for the voyage 
is often that long, is too much time to be thrown away. There 
is also all the risk, which is not small, and the exposure, which, com- 
ing from the warm latitude of Canton, to the colder climate of the 
north, is not a little disagreeable. Yet men of the world submit 



292 MEMOIR OF "WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

to all this, and much more, for the sake of earthly riches, and the 
missionary should not hesitate to do the same when the great ob- 
ject of his life can be gained by the sacrifice of some personal ease 
or comfort. 

Most persons dislike the sea, and it is common to speak of the 
monotony and tedium of long voyages. There is little to be seen 
that is new after the first few days, and without caution and 
watchfulness, one is apt to become impatient and fretful. Yet 
with due care, it need not be so. The best of all expedients to 
make the time pass pleasantly, is to have something to do, and to 
do it. It requires some resolution to keep one's self constantly 
employed, but the exertion is amply repaid. And there is much, 
even amidst the sameness of sea life, that is deeply instructive. 
God has so ordered all things in nature, that they form a constant 
commentary and illustration of invisible and eternal things. That 
more of such analogies can be traced in the sailor's life than in 
any other I will not presume to say, but I have often been sur- 
prised, and oftener still instructed as well as gratified, with the 
illustrations of the Christian's course which the voyage of a ship 
affords. The various changes of the weather, now calm and sun- 
shiny ; now stormy and dark ; now rapidly speeding on with 
prosperous breezes, and anon, painfully laboring against the wind ; 
who has not felt such changes as these in his Christian course? — 
The unceasing diligence of all concerned, especially the captain and 
officers, their constant study of the charts and books of directions, 
and their anxiety to secure observations of the sun and stars, that 
they may know their daily progress and position ; who does not 
recognize in this the duty of the Christian to study carefully the 
great chart and book which God has given to direct us on our 
way, and by earnest looking upivard, to gain wisdom from on 
high to lead our steps ? — The constant look-out for danger, and 
the anxiety to avoid hidden shoals, to mark the progress and di- 
rection of the currents, and to take advantage of every wind that 
blows ; how often have they reproved me for being so careless of 
danger, and so negligent where Christ said, " Watch !" and so in- 
different to the Spirit's influences, which, " like the wind," must 
waft the soul to heaven. When the ship has dropped her anchor 
in the port, universal joy possesses every heart. The dangers and 
watchings and fatigues of the voyage are over, the rewards of labor 
are now to be enjoyed, and the quietness and peace of home to 
repay the toils and perils that are past. " They are glad because 
they are quiet, and because they are brought to their desired ha- 
ven," but how much more real and satisfying is the Christian's 
joy, when he enters the haven of rest, his home in the skies. 
There " there is no more sea." 

The entrance of the great river Yang-tsze Keang (child of the 
ocean) is rather difficult, especially to vessels drawing much 
water. So much earth is brought down by this immense stream, 
and deposited in the sea, that the water is quite shallow for many 



JOURNAL — SHANGHAI. 293 

miles, and a vessel is in danger of running aground long before 
the land is seen. The coasts of China in this latitude are low, 
and perfectly level, and the land can scarcely be seen more than 
ten miles off. The strength of the tides is also very great, and 
several vessels have already been lost on the sands and rocks off 
the entrance of the river. Until lighthouses are erected, and 
buoys properly placed, more than ordinary caution will be re- 
quired of the officers of vessels visiting Shanghai. 

After entering the river, the course is north-west, to Woosung. 
Entering the Woosung river, the course is south-west, about 
fourteen miles to Shanghai. 

The whole country for many miles around the city is a perfect 
plain, having only sufficient elevation and depression to carry off 
the water. There is not a single hill within twenty miles of 
Shanghai, which, of course, renders the appearance of the coun- 
try uninteresting. The soil, however, is rich and productive, and 
excepting the space occupied by the graves, is in a high state of 
cultivation. There are no stones, nor even small pebbles, for in a 
trip of some twenty miles along the Woosung river, not a stone 
was to be seen, except such as had been brought from a distance. 
Farm houses and small villages dot the country hi every direc- 
tion, and clumps of bamboos, with orchards of peaches and plum 
trees, and willows by the water-courses, relieve the sameness of 
the ground. Two crops, one of wheat, and the other of cotton, 
are raised every year, and in some parts a third crop of rice is 
also procured. Rice, however, is not so much cultivated here as 
in the more southern parts of China, and as there are few paddy 
fields near the city, the ground is not so marshy as to render it 
unhealthy. 

The city of Shanghai is pleasantly situated at the junction of 
the Woosung and Hwangpoo rivers. It is of a circular form, 
surrounded by walls, about fifteen feet high, and nearly four miles 
in circumference. The suburbs near the rivers are thickly in- 
habited, and the population is estimated at about two hundred 
thousand inhabitants. By the Woosung river it is connected 
with the city of Soochow, the capital of the province, and one of 
the most luxurious and wealthy in the empire, and also with the 
Grand Canal which reaches to Peking. Hence its situation is 
one of great importance, and its trade is immense. Row T s of 
junks are moored for nearly two miles along the bank of the 
Hwangpoo, on the east of the city, and vessels are constantly 
arriving and departing. Already it is attracting a large share of 
foreign commerce, and many suppose that it will soon rival, if 
not surpass Canton, as a place for foreign trade. Sixty-five for- 
eign vessels have already entered the port, though it is but a year 
and a half since business commenced to be done there. The 
great tea and silk districts of China are nearer to Shanghai than 
to Canton, and if proper encouragement be held out, a large part 



294 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

of those articles which were formerly cai ried at great expense to 
the latter place, will find their way eithei to Shanghai or Ningpo. 

Every foreigner who has visited this place, gives the inhabi- 
tants a much better character than those of Canton. They are 
rather taller, of a more ruddy complexion, and much more civil 
and well-disposed than their southern countrymen. In passing 
through the streets one is rarely insulted, and the opprobrious 
epithets so common in Canton and Macao are scarcely ever heard 
here. 

The change that has come over the intercourse of the Chinese 
with foreigners within the last few years, is indeed wonderful. Five 
years ago we were confined to the suburbs of a single city. Ex- 
posed to insult and scorn even there, and denied the privilege of 
using the sedan chair, which the poorest Chinese may have by 
paying a hundred cash.* While such a thing as the wives or 
daughters of the foreign barbarians being allowed to enter the 
precincts of the " Celestial Empire," was out of the question. 
In Shanghai, Dr. Lockhart and myself walked quietly to the 
English consulate in the heart of the city, where divine service 
was held, on the Sabbath, whilst his wife and sister went be- 
fore us in the sedan chairs — and, excepting a few dogs which 
had not yet become reconciled to the presence of foreigners, none 
moved his tongue against us, and we felt as secure as though we 
had been in the cities of our native lands. 

The appearance of the city of Shanghai is not very prepossess- 
ing. The houses are crowded close together, and there are few 
buildings that make much pretensions to even Chinese ideas of 
architectural beauty, while by the Chinese themselves it ranks 
rather pre-eminent among the " dirty cities " of the Empire. Of 
one house now occupied by a foreigner, I was assured that when 
rented to him, it had not been cleaned for twenty years, and was 
in consequence, " unspeakably dirty," and with my own eyes, I 
saw the dirt lying full four inches thick on the floor of a temple 
in the heart of the city. 

The Roman Catholics once had a strong footing in Shanghai. 
Paul Siu, an officer of the highest rank, and his daughter Can- 
dida, who were the two most powerful and liberal friends the 
Jesuits ever possessed in China, were natives of this city, and 
several monuments to his memory are still found within the walls. 
In one place, the heathen descendants of Siu offer incense to his 
image. One of the idol temples in the city was formerly a chapel 
of the Roman Catholics, and is even now commonly called the 
" Teen-choo-tang," or " Hall of the Lord of Heaven," the name 
they give their places of worship in China. There are many 
Roman Catholic converts in the province of Keang-su, and several 
foreign priests, who dress in Chinese clothes, and live as the 
Chinese do. The R. C. Bishop of Keang-nan and Shantung, an 

* About nine cents. 



JOURNAL — CHUSAN. 295 

Italian, and »a nephew of the Pope, by the way, resides within 
five miles of Shanghai. 

Saturday, 30th March, 1845. Left Shanghai on yesterday, and 
reached Woosung to-day about eleven o'clock. I went ashore, 
and strolled up the banks of the Yang-tsze Keang about three 
miles. The river is so wide, you cannot see the other bank. The 
country being very low, high embankments are raised to protect 
the land from the high tides. The embankment along the Yang- 
tsze Keang, is faced with solid masonry four feet thick and about 
fifteen feet high, for several miles — how far exactly I cannot say. 
but as far as I went or could see, it was so. The termination of 
my walk was the little city of Paouhau, which is walled and has 
four gates. The city is square, the circuit of the walls very little 
more than a mile, and nearly all the houses are ranged along the 
two streets that extend from the gates and intersect in the centre 
of the town. The rest of the space within the walls is occupied 
by gardens. I should not think the population was more than 
two thousand. The houses outside the walls were larger and 
more numerous than those within. I went right through the 
town, then out at the same gate, a crowd of boys at my heels, 
then half round the walls, and then back to the ship. 

Tuesday, April 1st. About eleven o'clock in the morning, cast an- 
chor in Chusan harbor, and my joy at finding myself safe at my 
journey's end, was only equalled by that of finding the Isabella 
Ann with Loomis and Culbertson safe on board. She arrived on 
Saturday, after a thirty-eight days' passage, which, from the ac- 
counts they have given me, was not only very unpleasant, but 
even dangerous ; but we are all safe here. Thanks to God, who 
holds the winds and directs the storms. 

In the day-time went through the city of Tinghai. Loomis 
and his wife remain here for the present. The Culbertsons go to 
Ningpo to-morrow. I shall remain several days and go to Ningpo 
early next week. 

Tinghai is in the centre of a large valley, with high hills on 
three sides. At this time the valley is all green and yellow with 
crops of beans, barley, and cabbage in flower, and looks very well. 
The streets are, I think, cleaner than is usual in Chinese towns. 
In the evening I walked with Loomis and Culbertson over the lit- 
tle island just opposite Tinghai ; a splendid view from the top ; 
quite delighted to find some blue and white violets growing on the 
hill. 

Wednesday, April 2d. Went to the Isabella Ann to see about 
my freight. Found my mattress was missing, and several boxes 
of my books wet. Had not time to open them, but shall doubt- 
less find them much spoiled. The Rob Roy being so full, I could 
not bring them in her, and had to send them by the other. Mr. 
Bates, an American merchant, the only American here, has very 
kindly offered me a room while I stay here. 

Thursday, April 3d. I had my boxes from the Isabella Ann 



296 MEMOIR OF WAL'lER M. LOWRIE. 

taken to Mr. Loomis's house, and as they had got wet on board 
the ship, I had serious misgivings about their condition. I opened 
them to-day ; but oh, what a mess ! My books, my noble books, 
on which I prided myself so much; some were utterly ruined, 
more than half are seriously injured, three-fourths are greatly de- 
faced, and not one-fourth have escaped without some damage. 
Five hundred dollars would not replace the injury they have 
suffered. 

The mate of the vessel who stowed them away, " thought they 
were spirits or wine," and put them in the part of the vessel where 
such articles are kept, where, if water should come, no harm is 
done ! I fancy he had some spirits in his head when he thought 
so. Well, there was no use of crying, or scolding, or fretting ; so 
I did not lose my temper. I only wished I had not brought so 
many ; but as wishing was of no avail, I commenced to rub and 
air them. I got two Chinese to help me. They will be a pitiable 
sight when all is done. 

Friday, April 4th. A wet, raining forenoon. Went to Loomis's 
house, and spent several hours among my damaged books. Alas! 
alas ! 

Coming back, I heard a heavy regular tramp behind me, and 
supposed it must be a company of six or eight soldiers going to 
relieve guard. Without looking round, I walked as close as I 
could to the houses, to let them pass. At last finding no one 
passed, I looked round, and behold, it was a Chinaman with shoes 
for rainy weather. These shoes are made like other Chinese 
shoes, with the addition of a great many heavy iron nails in the 
sole; the heads are of a conical shape, and about half an inch 
thick. 

Monday, April 7th. After breakfast, I started with Mr. Loomis 
for a walk. Tinghai is built in a valley. We went through the 
city, and out at the north gate, and then up through the largest 
valley. What a delightful walk it was ! I do not think 1 have 
had one so pleasant in China. There were farm-houses and 
paddy-fields, and clover-patches, with red yellow flowers ; and 
some of the farmers were ploughing the clover in for manure. 
There were patches of barley, and cabbages run to seed. I won- 
der what they do with so many cabbage seeds? They make oil 
for cooking and lamps. There were some beautifully built tombs, 
with cedars planted round them. There were dandelions, and a 
kind of wild honeysuckle, violets, and some flowers a little like 
larkspurs. Then there was a beautiful little stream bubbling and 
murmuring over the stones ; and altogether I have seen nothing 
so much like home since I left the United States. The top of the 
hills where we went, was about three miles from Tinghai, and 
though the sun was warm, the north wind kept us pleasantly 
cool. What a splendid climate is this. It is April now, and the 
people in Macao are wearing white jackets, while here we have 
all our winter clothing on yet. 



JOURNAL — CHUSAN. 297 

There was a large valley surrounded on all sides by hills, with 
many houses, and highly cultivated. As we did not wish to go 
farther, we turned into a stone hut thatched with straw, and asked 
for a bowl of water, which was cheerfully given. I tried my Chi- 
nese on the man, and could get along after a fashion. 

Tuesday, April 8th. After breakfast Loomis and I started for a 
walk. Went out of the east gate, and up the valley that runs 
eastward from Tinghai. The valley is very rich, and highly cul- 
tivated. They are just now letting the water on for a crop of rice, 
and we saw the first bed in which the rice is sown, previous to 
transplanting. Several fields of barley, all planted in bunches, 
and some nearly ready for reaping ; a patch of peas in blossom, 
numerous beds of stalk beans, fields of clover, buffalos and buf- 
falo cows, and numerous farm-houses, rendered the walk very in- 
teresting. From the main valley numerous lesser ones run in 
among the hills on either side, affording a large extent of cultiva- 
ble land ; and most of the lower hills were cultivated to the top, 
while the larger hills are also studded over with cultivated spots, 
very far up. This is certainly a very beautiful island. Much 
more rice is produced than the inhabitants can use, and a great 
part is consumed in making sam shoo, a highly intoxicating 
liquor. 

On our return we stopped at a large and neat private house, or 
rather collection of houses, belonging to one person. On entering 
the door, the females, who were sitting in one of the back rooms, 
started up in some alarm, but as they saw us not very ferocious, 
they stood and looked. Presently the father of the household 
came out. and invited us to enter the reception hall, which was 
designated as the Hall of Patience and Benevolence. He had tea 
brought in, grown, as he said, on the island ; and I tried my Chi- 
nese on him, but not very successfully. The old man was very 
polite, but rather deaf, and did not understand me so well as his 
son or grandson, who stood outside. After sitting awhile, I gave 
him a copy of Ephesians and came away, much gratified with 
our visit. 

Packed up my books, or at least part of them, to take to Ningpo. 
About two hundred volumes were in such a state that I must leave 
them here for a while, and some fifty or more are about usaiess. 
" Three removes are as bad as a fire !" 

Thursday, April 10th. Left Chusan at half-past nine, a. m., 
with fair tide but light wind. Chartered a native boat, and took 
most of my goods and chattels, making twenty-one packages in 
all ; paid three dollars for the boat, which is about one-third of 
what I should have had to pay in Macao. There were only a few 
passengers, as I told the owner he must not crowd the boat. 
Among the passengers were two inhabitants of the mainland 
from near Chinhai, a farmer, a Budhist priest, and a Fuhkeen 
merchant, decidedly the most intelligent of the whole. There 
were several others, but I saw none of them except one, who came 



298 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

to me once with his breath smelling so strong of opium, that I 
gave him a lecture thereupon. 

At first they showed vast curiosity about my clothes, shoes, 
gloves, (fee, which they examined most minutely. The Fuhkeen 
merchant was more sensible. I could talk just a little with all of 
them, and soon was on very good terms with them, and gave them 
some tracts, but the Fuhkeen man was the only person who could 
read understandingly. The priest said there was an old man at 
his house who could read, and I gave him one for him. Our 
course lay along the southern shore of Kentong, and about two 
o'clock we entered the Ningpo river. A good many junks were 
lying off Chinhai, a walled city at the mouth of the river. Here 
our passengers all left ; and as the tide turned against us, and the 
wind was very light, we had to remain several hours. During the 
night the tide changed, and we kept on. I slept until daylight, 

Friday, April 11th, When I looked out, and found myself on 
the eastern side of Ningpo. I soon found Mr. Way and Mr. Cul- 
bertson, and in half an hour had my goods all ashore, without 
taking them to the Custom-house. 

Breakfast at eight o'clock. After prayers I soon found Dr. 
McCartee, who is living in a monastery. Then took a walk 
through the city, admired the straightness and width and com- 
parative cleanness of the streets, and afterwards went to the Pa- 
goda, or Tower of Ningpo, an immense tall tower, a hundred feet 
or more in height. Vast numbers of swallows have built their 
nests in holes in the walls. Going up to the top, I enjoyed a mag- 
nificent view of the country around. Ningpo is in a vast plain, a 
perfect level ; but high hills are in sight on all sides but one. 
The plain is so level that the hills look quite near, but they are 
really from fifteen to eighteen miles distant. 

At six o'clock, p. m., took a walk with Way and Culbertson, and 
their wives. There are but few houses in this part of the suburbs, 
and we walked about perfectly unembarrassed with people. The 
vegetation is very luxuriant here. Saw several tombs erected in 
the time of the Ming Dynasty ; there was first a pair of stone rams ; 
then of dogs ; then of horses saddled and bridled ; then of monks ; 
and then of tombs. I have seen many of them at Shanghai. 

Here endeth my first day in Ningpo. I am very much gratified 
with all I have seen. 

Saturday, April 12th. After breakfast, Way and Culbertson 
and myself started for a walk round the city walls, commencing 
at the north gate. The whole time occupied was one hour and 
forty minutes ; and as the day was cold and we walked fast, we 
reckoned the circuit of the walls to be six miles. The walls are 
about fifteen feet high, with a parapet six feet higher. Within 
the parapet, the top of the wall is wide enough for four or five to 
walk abreast. The wall is flanked with stone on both sides, and 
paved on the top ; the middle, I suppose, is filled with rubbish. 
It is in a tolerably good state of preservation ; though in several 



JOURNAL — NINGPO. 299 

places the parapet has fallen, and in many places grass and bushes 
are growing among the stones. The city is tolerably well filled 
with houses ; though near the western and northern walls, there 
are many vacant places. The suburbs at the eastern and western 
gates are both very closely built and populous. Between the rivers 
and a deep canal, the city is nearly surrounded with water. There 
are also two lakes and a canal within the city, which communi- 
cate with that outside by two water gates, adjoining the south 
and west gates. 

In a hasty walk round the city, one cannot notice much. One 
thing that particularly struck the eye was the mode of interment. 
There are two in common practice. The first and most common 
is to place the massive coffin on the surface of the ground, and 
leave it there. Sometimes it is bound round with matting or 
straw, and occasionally built up around with brick ; but commonly 
the coffin is simply laid on the ground. Sometimes you see only 
one ; sometimes a dozen ; and occasionally, hundreds lying close 
together, close by the houses both within and without the walls. 
The other mode is to cover the body with a conical mound of 
earth, and plant evergreens, commonly cedars, around it. There 
is quite a forest of such plantations on the west of the city. I am 
not sure whether the body is interred in these mounds, or whether 
the bones are taken out of the exposed coffin after the flesh has 
decayed, and then interred. At Shanghai there is the same mode 
of laying the coffins on the ground and of erecting earthen mounds, 
but I do not remember the evergreens. 

Came back to Dr. McCartee's establishment, which is just within 
the northern gate. It is his prescribing day, and he had a great 
crowd. I concluded to take a set of rooms, some four or five, which 
the monks offered to let me have, and to put some furniture in for 
me, for five dollars a month, with possession on Tuesday or Wed- 
nesday. It will be a capital place to learn the language, which is 
my object at present. 

A cold, rainy afternoon and evening, and all glad to gather round 
a charcoal fire. 

April 14th, 1845. After a visit to the city, we sailed some dis- 
tance up the north branch of the river, whose course is quite 
crooked a short distance above the North Gate. At the distance 
of twelve le,* we passed a large distillery, known by the usual 
sign of a tall pole, with a small round bamboo sieve near the top, 
and a small flag above it. Passing three le further, we went 
ashore at a temple where the keeper received us full civilly, and 
gave us tea to drink. The temple contained nothing of interest, 
but we were amused in watching a boat as it passed over a sluice. 
As the tide rises and falls several feet in the river, the small 
streams and canals that empty into it would be nearly useless at 
low water. To prevent this, they are all dammed up at the 

* Three le are about one mile. 



300 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

mouth, and thus the water is made to stand always at nearly the 
same level, so that they are always useful for irrigation and navi- 
gation. To enable boats to enter the river, and come back into 
the canals, the dam is rounded off, and by means of two rude 
capsterns and bamboo ropes, the boats are hauled up to the top 
of the dam. It consists simply of mud, beaten smooth and hard, 
and rendered slippery by pouring a little water over it. As soon as 
the boats are once at the top, their own weight carries them down 
the other side, and they enter the river like a ship launched from 
the stocks. Each sluice is attended by two men and several boys, 
and it requires but a minute or two to pass a boat in either direc- 
tion. By these economical locks there is no loss of water, and 
the wear of the flat-bottomed boats is small. The toll for passing 
these sluices varies from five to eight cents, according to the size 
of the boat. 

15th. The wheat and barley are now in the ear, and the heads 
begin to grow heavy. 

16th. Crossed the ferry at the east gate, where a large number 
of boats are constantly plying. This place, at the junction of the 
two rivers, is the most busy part of Ningpo. Went over to the 
eastern suburb, which is large and populous, and a place of much 
business, but not remarkable for cleanliness. After strolling 
through several streets, came by the Bridge of Boats, to the Ling 
Keaou Nuw, or "Gate of the Etherial Bridge." The bridge, 
which has not much that is very etherial about it, consists of a 
flooring laid over a number of large boats, which are anchored in 
the stream, with sufficient space for small boats to pass between. 
Numerous stalls of what might be called " notions," occupy either 
side of the bridge, and a great crowd is constantly passing and 
repassing. There is no toll on this bridge. 

The street from the Ling Keaou Nuw is almost entirely occupied 
by furniture shops, some of which present a very showy appear- 
ance. The bedsteads, with their carved, painted, and gilded 
frames, and gay decorations, are the most remarkable. 

Continuing our walk through several streets, we were objects 
of general curiosity. A foreigner is still " a sight worth seeing" 
in Ningpo, and men and boys both cry out as we pass, " Hung 
ma nyin ! hung ma nyin /" a term which literally means " red- 
haired men," but is applied without exception to all foreigners. Oc- 
casionally, a mischievous boy cries out, " Wailo /" a term derived 
from foreigners, and equivalent to "be off!" but it often seems to 
be done more with the intention of exciting our attention than of 
insulting us. From hearing the soldiers and sailors calling to 
their companions, " I say — look here," &c, the natives have got 
the idea that " I say" is equivalent to a proper name, and one is 
often saluted with it in passing through the streets. 

17th. In conversation with an old gentleman who is himself a 
sewtsai, a literary degree equivalent to our Bachelor of Arts, he 
informed me that there are about four hundred sewtsai in the city. 



JOURNAL NINGPO. 301 

and nearly a thousand in this foo, or department, which contains 
six heen, or districts. He estimates the population of Ningpo at 
forty myriads, or four hundred thousand, a large estimate prob- 
ably. He knew something of other nations ; — a rare acquirement 
even among the most educated of the Chinese, and seemed very 
proud of displaying his geographic learning. 

Afterwards went with Dr. McCartee to see the garden of Mr. 
Kiang, a salt merchant, supposed to be the richest man in Ningpo. 
It is visited by nearly every foreigner who comes here, and is very 
beautiful, though not large. Artificial rock-work, caverns, pools 
of water, summer-houses, green arbors, and sweet flowers, make 
it a very pleasant place. The old gentleman was very polite, and 
according to custom, gave us tea to drink, which, not accord- 
ing to custom, was really excellent. The old man is hard of 
hearing, and said little ; but one of his sons talked a great deal 
about America and broadcloth. Nothing seems to take the fancy 
of the Chinese so much as the cloth we wear, whether woollen, 
linen, or cotton, and it is usually one of the first topics on which 
they begin to ask questions. 

18th. Took up my quarters at the Yu shing kwan monastery, 
belonging to the Taou sect, which is situated just within the 
north gate of the city. There are, in all, five monks in the estab- 
lishment. As soon as my baggage was brought in, the old abbot 
sent in a wooden waiter with a pile of sponge cakes, and four 
cups of tea, together with a red card, on the top of which was 
written, " Congratulations," and beneath, " The resident supporter 
of the Yu shing kwan monastery. Hwang che hwuy bows his 
head and worships." A small present was sent back in return. 

In the morning, had an opportunity of seeing a " small foot" 
uncovered. One of the female patients had some disease, which 
made it necessary to take the bandages off the foot, a thing they 
are commonly unwilling to do before strangers. The sight was 
by no means pleasant. All the toes except the largest were turned 
under the sole of the foot; the instep was greatly elevated, and 
the hollow between the heel and the ball of the foot much deeper 
than in the natural state. All the women here, excepting the 
nuns, have their feet thus unnaturally compressed, and in conse- 
quence, you never see a woman able to walk with even tolerable 
ease and grace. They all go hobbling about like cripples, and 
frequently have to depend upon an umbrella, or the shoulder of a 
female attendant whose feet are not quite so cruelly hampered as 
their own, to support their steps. 

For several days past, green peas in abundance have been sold 
in the markets. 

19th. In our walk after breakfast, we found some soldiers prac- 
tising musketry under the direction of their officers. They were 
merely firing blank cartridges, and the sole object seemed to be to 
accustom them to load swiftly and fire with deliberation. Nearly 
every man shut his eyes, and turned away his head when he 



302 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

pulled the trigger. The guns were all matchlocks of the rudest 
construction, and the touch-hole was large enough to admit a ten- 
penny-nail, consequently nearly a third of the charge escaped at 
the wrong end. Each man, after firing, lifted up his right foot, 
made a bow to the officer commanding, and fell back ; but the 
whole exhibition was poorly calculated to inspire one with respect 
for their prowess or efficiency. 

Afterwards went to the Hwuy-Hwuy Tang, or Mohammedan 
Mosque. The keepers of the building were from Shantung ; and 
one old woman spoke Mandarin beautifully. (The purest Man- 
darine dialect is spoken in Shantung.) The mosque is a small 
building, with many Arabic inscriptions, and we were informed 
that there are some five hundred Mohammedans in Ningpo. They 
have a larger mosque, and more numerous population in Hang- 
chou, the capital of this province. There was formerly a Jewish 
synagogue in Ningpo, as well as one in Hangchou, but no traces 
of them are now discoverable, and the only Jews known to exist 
in China, are in Kaifung foo, the capital of Honan. 

Yisited also a small flower-garden, but saw little worthy of no- 
tice. There were some dwarf trees, and curiously-twisted and 
gnarled shrubs, which the Chinese take great delight in cultivat- 
ing. By tying cords to the branches, so as to make them grow 
crookedly, and other devices, they succeed in giving to young and 
small trees the appearance of great age. 

20th. Preached this morning to the largest congregation of for- 
eigners that has yet met in Ningpo, sixteen persons in all. 

21st. Dr. McCartee having occasion to go to Chusan to-day, I 
am left alone in the monastery ; but a smattering of Mandarin, 
of which the people all understand a little, enables me to get 
along without difficulty. Dr. McCartee has three boys under his 
care, the two elder of whom are very interesting and affectionate ; 
and his teacher is a kind-hearted, excellent man, " almost persua- 
ded to be a Christian." We have prayers morning and evening 
in Chinese, when the teacher reads and explains a chapter in 
Chinese, and repeats or reads a prayer ; after which we have a 
prayer in English. A-chang, the second boy, was greatly de- 
lighted with my barometer, and repeated several times, " Heaou 
teh fung ! heaou teh yu !" " It understands the wind ! It under- 
stands the rain !" and finally, he declared there was nothing so 
admirable in all Ningpo. 

Shortly after Dr. McCartee started, a man came in great haste 
to have him go and see a man who had swallowed opium, a com- 
mon mode of committing suicide. Dr. Macgowan happened to 
be here, and went immediately, but the man was dead before he 
could see him. 

22d. Teaching the boys English, who, in return, make capital 
teachers in Chinese. 

A man came for medicine to cure opium smoking, He had no 
money to buy more opium, and the desire for it was so strong, as 



JOURNAL — NINGPO. 303 

to be a torment. ' When told that I could do nothing for him, not 
being a physician, he asked with some asperity, " Then what did 
you come here for, since you are not a merchant?" My knowl- 
edge of the language was scarcely sufficient to answer his ques- 
tion satisfactorily. 

23d. Arranging my rooms, and putting my clock up. Got a 
■servant to-day, who seems to be a very simple-hearted, good sort 
of a fellow, and who looked with unbounded admiration at the 
clock. Seeing one of the monks, he called out to him, " Here is 
a clock !" It has been a great object of admiration all day. 

25th. Along with Dr. McCartee, and Messrs. Way and Cul- 
bertson, went out several miles into the country to see a patient of 
the Doctor's, who is confined with a broken leg. The country is 
intersected with innumerable canals, which supply the place of 
high roads in other countries. Much ground is also covered with 
tombs, so that the common saying, that the Chinese use no ground 
for tombs which can be cultivated, is incorrect. In the south, 
where barren hills abound, and only the valleys are fit for culti- 
vation, the remark is true ; but about Shanghai, Chusan, and. 
Ningpo, it is not. 

The canals are full of fish : to catch them, bamboo fences are 
staked across them in numerous places, with only an opening for 
boats. The opening itself is staked with flexible reeds, which al- 
low the water to pass through, and boats to pass over, but effectu- 
ally prevent the fish. Commonly, the fences are formed into a 
kind of labyrinth, so that when the fish are driven to them, they 
enter a trap, from which it is difficult to escape, and they are then 
scooped up with a small hand-net. The appearance of the coun- 
try is very beautiful ; crops of wheat, and barley nearly ready for 
the reaper, patches of clover, beds of rice for transplanting, young 
fields of reeds for mats, (a very important part of the trade of 
Ningpo,) water-wheels, worked by buffaloes or men, the latter 
sort somewhat on the principle of the tread-mill, a few water buf- 
faloes and oxen, quiet farm-houses and numerous villages, with 
some old trees, form a picture of great beauty. Oh ! that this 
were indeed Immanuel's land ! that those whom we meet were 
partakers of the same faith and hope with us ! " How long, O 
Lord ! Return and visit these long desolations !" 

30th. Invited to a Chinese dinner. The dishes were brought in 
bowls, everything being cut up, and ready for use. Each guest 
was provided with a small wine-cup, a spoon, and a pair of chop- 
sticks. The guests were Dr. McCartee and his teacher, the old 
abbot and one of the monks from the monastery, and myself. 
The dishes were : — stewed chicken, cold goose, duck and bamboo- 
sprouts, pork, fish, cherries, water-chestnuts, pea-nuts, soup, beche 
de-mer, ginger, preserved eggs, spinnage, and rice and tea to close 
with ; besides, hot spirits distilled from rice. It was my first effort 
with chop-sticks, which are awkward enough at first, especially 
when you try to take up a hard-boiled egg. Several of the dishes 



304 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

were very palatable, but one or two of the customs were not par- 
ticularly pleasant, e. g., the old abbot, after putting his chop-sticks 
several times into his mouth, picked out a tempting piece of goose, 
and offered it to me with the same sticks. I begged to be excused, 
though it is a mark of polite attention to make such an offer ; also 
a wet cloth was handed round after dinner to wipe the fingers and 
mouth, the same cloth for all. 

May 2d, 1845. Observed some strawberries quite ripe. In size, 
shape, and color, and in the leaf, they are much like ours ; but 
they are quite tasteless, and so little used by the Chinese, that 
most of them think them poisonous. I have, however, eaten 
some, and seen others do the same, without any unpleasant effects. 
While gathering them, a man came along, who accosted me, and 
begged for medicine to cure him of opium smoking. Notwith- 
standing my telling him that I had none, he followed me all the 
way to my lodgings, repeating his request. 

May 3. In the afternoon a respectable and interesting-looking 
Chinese came to the Yushing kwan temple to perform some cere- 
monies on the sixth birth-day of his son. The little fellow was 
dressed in his best clothes, and seemed to enjoy the whole affair. 
His father had brought gilt paper, printed prayers, and a large 
number of bowls full of various meats, rice, vegetables, nuts, cups 
of wine, and the like, which were spread out before the idols. 
The ceremonies were performed in the apartment of the Tow-moo, 
or Bushel Mother, who has special charge of young people, both 
before and after birth. The old abbot clothed himself in a scarlet 
robe, with a gilt image of a serpent fastened in his hair. One of the 
monks wore a purple, and another an ash-colored robe. A multi- 
tude of prayers, seemingly little else than a round of repetitions, 
were read by the abbot. Occasionally he chanted a little, when 
the attendants joined in chorus, and every few minutes a deafen- 
ing clamor of bells, cymbals, and hollow blocks of wood, was 
raised. Genuflexions and prostrations innumerable accompanied 
the whole ceremony. The most singular part was the passing of 
a live cock through a barrel which had both ends knocked out. 
This was done several times by two assistants, who shouted some 
strange words at each repetition of the ceremony. The meaning, 
as I was afterwards told, was something like this : Prayers had 
been offered to the idol that the child might escape certain dangers 
through which he must pass ; and each passing of the cock 
through the barrel was intended to symbolize his passing safely 
through one of these perils. It was a melancholy sight. In con- 
clusion, some of the prayers were burnt, a cup of wine poured out 
as a libation, and a grand chorus of bell, and gong, and drum, 
and blocks, closed the scene. 

May 8. Dr. McCartee was called this evening to see a young 
man, who had poisoned himself, in the eastern suburbs, but he 
was dead before his arrival. He was but seventeen years old 



JOURNAL — NINGPO. 305 

and having lost money by gambling, put an end to his life by 
taking arsenic. 

May 12. Called with Dr. McCartee to see a dropsical patient 
in a very respectable family. He had been consulting some native 
doctors, one of whom thought he had within him some clotted 
horse blood, which had feet and could walk ; and the only way in 
which the clot of blood could be killed, was by taking internally a 
prescription so indecent that it cannot be published. This he had 
done, but unsuccessfully. He had also, at the recommendation of 
another physician, eaten a toad, but with equal want of success. 
He was now so far gone that but little hope of his recovery re- 
mained. After talking some time with his parents and brothers. 
who were very agreeable people, and being peeped at by his sisters, 
who were not allowed by Chinese etiquette to come into the same 
room, we came away. 

May 13. Engaged a teacher to-day, Hung seen sang. He is 
forty-nine years old, has the degree of kung sang, or bachelor of 
arts advanced, wears spectacles, being near-sighted, has already 
gray and almost white hairs, and on the whole promises well, 
though he is not as much of a talker as I could wish. 

A young man from Shensi province, connected with the Taou- 
tai's office, came to-day for medicine to cure him of opium smoking. 
Speaking of the effects of smoking, he said it gave him pains in 
the head, and made him stupid; but he could not do without it. 
When he smoked, he was revived for a while, "just like winding 
up a clock ;" but he soon ran down again, and was worse than 
ever. He seemed intelligent, and received Christian books with 
much politeness. 

May 14. A wet, rainy day. In the evening Dr. McCartee was 
called in a great hurry to see a man who had poisoned himself by 
taking opium. On going to the house, found the family in much 
alarm. The man was in bed, looking very stupid, and his wife 
attending him with some appearance of anxiety and care. He 
had had a quarrel with his mother-in-law, and in revenge attempt- 
ed to make away with himself by taking opium. There was,, 
however, some reason to suppose that it was partly a feint to- 
frighten the old woman, and after an emetic being given, we came 
away. The Chinese have but little to deter them from the com- 
mission of suicide, for they have very faint ideas of a future state. 
or of punishment beyond the grave. 

May 17. A great Hwuy, or festival of Too-shin, all the gods, 
has been celebrated for the last day or two. Saw a part of the 
procession to-day, though the narrow crowded streets gave but a 
poor opportunity of seeing the different parts. There were innu- 
merable lanterns, three or four gaily ornamented dragons, a boat, 
several chairs, idols, little boys carried on men's shoulders, and 
various other sights. The most interesting were several gaily 
dressed girls, who seemed to be standing on almost nothing at all. 
One girl standing on a chariot, carried a branch of a tree careless- 
20 



306 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

ly on her shoulder : on one of the twigs of the branch stood a little 
girl, on one foot, with the other in the air. Another girl held up 
in her hand a plate of cakes, and a smaller girl stood with one 
foot on the cakes, and was thus borne along. Of course all this 
was done by means of iron or brass supporters around their bodies. 
The crowd of people was immense, and numerous policemen 
seemed to be busy, or rather to make themselves busy, for I never 
saw so large a crowd, and so little disorder. 

It was a curious sight to look over the crowd and see the forest 
of pipe-stems. Nearly everybody carries a pipe with a stem from 
two to four feet long, and when held up to keep them out of harm's 
way, they looked like a forest of small sticks, or perhaps like a 
cane-brake stripped of its leaves. 

May 19. The ditch along the southern side of the monastery 
being nearly dry, some boys made arrangements to catch the fish. 
They dammed up a part of the ditch at a time, and having emp- 
tied the water out of it, by groping among the stones and black 
mud at the bottom, they procured quite a handsome mess of fish, 
from three to seven inches long. There are numerous canals in 
the city which abound with fish, as do the rivers and streams 
without. Most of the canals in the city are navigable for small 
boats, but so narrow, that two boats can pass only at certain 
places. They connect with the moat and canals outside by two 
water-gates, one of which is near the gate of the Etherial Bridge, 
and the other near the west gate. In them the lower order of the 
people wash all their dirty vessels, they also wash their clothes, 
and the rice they eat, and they also wash their own bodies ; con- 
sequently they are not always very clean, and must prove un- 
wholesome in summer. 

May 21. Having occasion to be out at a prayer-meeting until 
after eight o'clock in the evening, we found the north gate closed 
on our return. It is closed sooner than the other gates, being less' 
of a thoroughfare : they are commonly open till nine or ten o'clock. 
A present of a hundred cash (about nine cents) to the gate-keeper, 
opened it for us. A Chinaman gets it opened for sixty cash, but 
we have to pay more. Sometimes the officers of the city seal the 
gates at night, by pasting a strip of paper across them, and then it 
is more difficult to get in or out. 

May 27. It is amusing to observe the commotion excited by the 
appearance of a foreigner in the retired parts of the city, where 
few have yet wandered. Every one cries out, " Hung ma nying ! 
hung ma nying !" a red-haired man ! a red-haired man ! this 
being the name for all foreigners. The women and children 
scatter in all directions ; the men stare and gaze, or pass their 
comments, as the fancy strikes them. It is melancholy to witness 
the fear of foreigners that still exists, especially on the part of the 
women and children. Some of the men look as if they would be 
glad to hide, and if you look at them, seem ready to sink into the 
ground. Commonly, however, this fear is giving way to curiosity; 



JOURNAL AT NINGPO. 307 

and nothing is move common than for those who see the stranger 
to beckon to the women to come and have a look also. One little 
boy, in his haste to do this, dropped his basket, overturned his 
playfellow, and running to the door, clapped his hands and called 
out, "Here's a red-haired man ! come ! quick, quick, quick !" The 
titles they give, and the remarks they make, are sometimes amus- 
ing, and sometimes provoking. " Mantele !" for mandarin. " Wailo 
fuhke, wailo !" Be off with you ! " Lailo !" Come here. " Hung 
ma nying !" are the common terms; and sometimes "Pah kwei, : ' 
and " Kwei tszfwkite devil, and devil's child ! Some few, on 
the other hand, are polite enough to say, " Hungma seen saung," 
foreign teacher ; and the beggars say, " Hungma laou yay," for- 
eign esquire. 

The sun is sometimes called Kin woo, or " golden crow," from 
its spots, which are thought to be crows ; and the moon is called 
the Yuh too, or "jewelled hare," because they say a hare is distinct- 
ly seen in it. Hence, in poetical style, the setting of the sun and 
rising of the moon is expressed by " The golden crow sank in the 
west, and the jewelled hare arose in the east." 

May 28. The Chinese are fond of high-sounding and poetical 
names for everything, and this fancy displays itself on the bridges, 
as well as elsewhere. A little stone bridge over a ditch by the Yu 
shing kwan monastery, is dignified with the title, " Bridge of Lon- 
gevity and Happiness," and one at the west water-gate is call " the 
Bridge of Extended Virtue." At Shanghai, I saw a bridge over a 
canal with the inscription, Paou sheu keaou, " The excellent jewel 
of a bridge !" 

May 29. Went out with Dr. McCartee several miles into the 
country, by water of course. Stopped at a small village, and 
went into a temple, when a crowd soon came round us, and notice 
being given that Dr. McCartee would prescribe for the sick gratu- 
itously, a number of patients applied for medicine and advice. 
After this Dr. McCartee and his teacher both spoke to the people 
on religion, and were listened to with good attention. Tracts 
were then given to the eager crowd, and we took our departure, 
much gratified with our visit and the behavior of the people. 

Returning, saw a large house in the western suburb on fire. It 
seemed to be the family mansion of some wealthy person ; but the 
Chinese have little skill in putting out fires, and the owners were 
removing their furniture, and leaving the house to its fate. The 
Cheheen (mayor of the city) and several other military and civil 
officers, were speedily on the ground with their retainers. Being 
tired and hungry, we did not stop to see the end, but were inform- 
ed that by breaking down parts of the adjoining houses, the flames 
were prevented from spreading. 

May 30. Spent part of the day in visiting acquaintances among 
the Chinese, then went to the house of a Mr. Lin, to see his 
garden, which is spoken of as very fine ; but were rather disap- 
pointed, as it had nothing remarkable in it. While in the garden 



dOO MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

Mr. Lin came out to see us, and politely took us over his house 
which is large, airy, and well furnished. He had some six 01 
eight large clocks of European manufacture, but all out of order, 
with numerous beautiful scrolls of writing and painting. His 
father left him a fortune of some three hundred thousand taels, 
(over four hundred thousand dollars,) but his extravagance has 
diminished it to one hundred thousand. He smokes opium freely, 
and looks sallow and thin. Some friends were with him at the 
time, and he had an opium pipe, and lamp burning in the room to 
which he led us. This opium is the curse of China. It is drain- 
ing out their money from the land, sucking the heart's blood of 
their industry, and destroying the constitutions and the lives of 
their people. 

May 31. A good deal of commotion in the city to-day, on ac- 
count of the boldness of a gang of robbers last night. They 
attacked the house next door to Mr. Lin's, which we visited yes- 
terday, severely wounded some of the inmates, and carried off 
much property. Some of the mayor's police went to disperse them, 
but the robbers attacked and drove them off, and escaped with 
their booty. This is the most daring outrage that has occurred 
for some time. Robberies out of the city are not uncommon, but 
within the walls, such daring attacks have seldom been attempted. 

June 3, 1845. On Saturday, May 31st, Dr. McCartee was 
called to see a woman in the country, who had poisoned herself 
by taking opium, but she was dead before he arrived. It seems 
she was the concubine, or second wife, and had a quarrel with 
the first wife, which led to her destroying herself. This evening, 
another case of poisoning occurred but a few doors from our resi- 
dence. In this case he was in time, and some sulphate of zinc soon 
relieved the man's stomach. The cause was a quarrel with some 
of the neighbors. 

Yesterday and to-day have been w T et and cold. Thermometer 
down to 64 deg., which is eighteen degrees lower than it was the 
day before. 

June 5. Reading in the Kea Paou, or " Family Jewels," I came 
across the following sentences, which are rather remarkable. " If 
your parents treat you with unkindness, or even do what is wrong, 
you must still, with the utmost quietness, submit. And if they 
will not hear your attempts to correct their errors, you must not 
become angry, and scold them ; but bear it in silence. For, re- 
member, that below the skies, there is not such a thing as a father 
or mother that does wrong. Your father is heaven, and your 
mother is earth, and where is the man that dares to contend with 
heaven and earth? Is it right to do so? Therefore, it was well 
said, by an ancient sage, 'Although a father should ill-treat his 
son, yet must not the son cease his filial obedience.' " The fol- 
lowing sentence is equally remarkable : "Let not your love for 
your wife and children prevent your paying all due respect to your 
parents. Should your wife and children die, you may yet procure 



JOURNAL AT NINGPO. 309 

others ; but if your father and mother depart, whence will you re- 
place them ?" Kea Paou, vol. i. p. 6. The sentiment of this last 
line must remind the student of history, of the saying ascribed to 
a Persian lady, whose whole family had been condemned to death. 
The monarch, permitting her to save the life of any one she chose, 
she selected a brother. On being asked why she had not rather 
chose to save one of her children, she replied, " I may have other 
children, but another brother I cannot have." 

To-day being the first of the Chinese month, several people 
have come to worship at the temple. Several travelling monks 
assist at the devotions. Among the worshippers were some re- 
spectably dressed females, one of whom took her little child, that 
knew not its right hand from its left, and making it kneel before 
the idol, taught it to lift its hands and worship. 

June 7. Another case of opium poisoning to-day. It was a 
young man who could not collect money to pay his debts on the 
fifth of the month, when, according to custom here, all debts must® 
be settled. The application for assistance was too late, as he was 
dying when Dr. McCartee reached the house. 

June 16. A visit from sundry official persons, and some schol- 
ars, to-day. They were civil, very inquisitive, and not at all 
backward in asking for anything they took a fancy to. One of 
them requested a few sheets of writing paper, as a curiosity, and 
when I took out half a quire, meaning to give him a sheet or two, 
he held out both hands, and took all, exclaiming, " Oh, thank you, 
thank you !" We gave them tracts, several of which were printed 
on our own press, with the Parisian type. They expressed much 
pleasure at the beauty and clearness of the type, as I have more 
than once or twice heard scholars do, when they opened one of 
our tracts. 

June 18. An animated discussion with my teacher to-day on 
idolatry. He is the most zealous defender of their idolatrous rites 
that I have ever met among the Chinese, and does not, as most 
of them do, assent to everything that we say on the subject. Ac- 
cording to what he says, idols were not formerly worshipped in 
China, nor are they now, by the literati, who pay their adoration 
only to the souls of the deified persons, and not to the images. 
When pressed in argument, he admitted that it was of no use, 
except to show reverential feeling, for the souls of the idols being 
in heaven, could not hear or enjoy the worship paid to them. At 
last he confessed that it was only " long-established custom." I 
rejoiced to be able to tell him distinctly, that it was only by re- 
nouncing all idols, believing on Christ, and worshipping him, that 
any man could be saved. 

It is curious to see how they use the same arguments in favor 
of their worship, which the Roman Catholics urge for the adora- 
tion of the saints. Among other things, he said that it was better 
to worship heroes, and such like, because God is too great to be 
troubled with our prayers, and therefore, we must approach him 



310 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

by means of persons greater than ourselves. When asked if there 
were any good and sinless men on earth, he replied with empha- 
sis, "There are few indeed !" When asked, "Did you ever see 
one?" he replied, "Never." At this point he seemed to feel un- 
comfortable, and admitted that man's natural disposition is not 
good, though he was hardly willing to say this, without some 
qualification. 

June 19. Another long conversation with my teacher, on reli- 
gion, in which I could not but admire his independence. He freely 
admitted the difference between Christianity and the religion of 
China ; but unlike most Chinese teachers, he would not compli- 
ment me, by saying that ours was the best. He listened with in- 
terest, while I spoke of the way of salvation, through the suffer- 
ings and death of Christ. Oh, that he were himself a Christian ! 
He is acute to detect the inconsistencies of professed Christians, 
and asked some questions to-day, respecting some, which were 
•hard to answer. 

The Sz' family are in a good deal of trouble, from the youngest 
brother having borrowed money, which he is now unable to repay. 
The creditor insists on immediate payment, and the young man, 
in despair, attempted to kill himself to-day, by swallowing opium. 
The timely application of remedies saved him ; but the whole 
family are in great distress. By Chinese law, all the brothers are 
responsible for each other, and for the father's debts ; but the father 
is not responsible for the debts of his grown-up sons. 

June 21. Went into the main building of the temple to-night, 
and found all the monks busy at their devotions. Some person 
was making an offering, and his gifts were spread out in order be- 
fore the idol. Fourteen candles were burning. The old abbot 
was beating the drum, and twelve monks, more than half of 
whom were visitors, were chanting from the Shangteking, or 
Classic of the Supreme Ruler. Each wore a long yellow, or 
orange colored robe, fringed with black, and read from a copy of 
the book beautifully written with red ink. They chanted, beat 
their bells and blocks of wood, knelt, and rose again, and bowed 
their heads. Oh, how melancholy to see it ! Some of the monks 
were old and gray-headed. One was young, with the ruddiness 
of boyhood still on his cheeks. I thought of the command, " Thou 
shalt not bow down unto them — " and my heart sank within me, 
as the question rose, " How long, oh Lord, how long ? — " Will 
this kind go out except by prayer and fasting ? 

June 26. Several conversations with my teacher, of late, on re- 
ligion, which seem to have made some impression on him. He 
was much struck with the idea of missionaries coming here, not to 
make money, but simply to teach religion, and after a pause, said 
seriously, " It requires great faith to do all this. I do not think our 
Chinese would do it." Giving him an account of my being ship- 
wrecked some years ago, he was much interested, and remarked, 
" Truly, you would not have escaped, if Jesus had not preserved you.' 



JOURNAL AT NINGPO. 311 

July 1. The warmest day we have yet had. Thermom- 
eter at 91° for a while, and now, at nine o'clock, p. m., at 88°. 
Little wind, and weather very damp. It is what the Chinese call 
the wang may teen, or yellow plum season, because the plums 
are then ripe, when the atmosphere is so overloaded with mois- 
ture, that even when the sun is shining, the stone and wooden 
floors are as damp as if they had but lately been scrubbed, and 
had not time to dry. 

July 3. The first sentence of the San trz king, the first book 
read by children in the schools, asserts that " man's disposition, 
originally good, becomes depraved by habit." The following sen- 
tence, however, from the Kea Paon, or Family Jewels, asserts a 
different doctrine. " In all the world where is there ever a good 
man born ? All, by education alone, become perfect. Where is 
there ever a bad man born ? All from want of education become 
bad. The gem uncut is but a useless gem. To what purpose 
can it be applied ? The field unwatered and untilled, is but a 
weedy waste. How can it produce abundant and mature har- 
vests?" Vol. I. 

July 6th, Sabbath. Greatly disturbed in our morning worship, 
by a number of Chinese carrying alum, the property of a Chris- 
tian merchant, out of a neighboring store-room to load a ship, the 
property of a Christian owner. Verily, there is but little fear of 
God in the eyes of many who do business in this heathen land. 
Alas ! for our work among this people, who know not how to dis- 
tinguish among the professed and the real followers of Christ. 

Very rainy, damp weather for some days, and so cold, notwith- 
standing the heat a week ago, as to render thick clothes and 
woollen stockings comfortable. But it is the last, probably, of the 
cold weather for a while. 

July 10. Warm weather now. 

July 15. A visit from some inferior officer to-day, who had 
nothing to distinguish him save a beautiful silk dress, and long 
nails. The nail of one of his thumbs was more than two inches 
long, and two of the fingers on the same hand, had nails nearly 
as long. 

July 19. Being the 15th of the Chinese month, there was a 
great crowd of men and women in the temple, and the house was 
filled with the smoke of the burning incense. 

July 24. Had a visit to-day from a Mr. Lefevre, a French Ro- 
man Catholic missionary, who has spent five years in Keangse, 
one in Nankin, and three in Macao. He seems to be about fifty- 
five years old, and is now on his way to Tartary, to take charge 
of their theological school at Siwan. He speaks Chinese, the 
court dialect, fluently, and tolerably well, but with rather a French 
accent. As he knew no English, and I but little French, we talked 
together in Chinese. He goes first to Shanghai, there changes 
his garments and puts on a queue, with Chinese spectacles, to con- 
ceal his eyes. From Shanghai he goes by the grand canal, and 



312 MEMOIR OF "WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

expresses no fear of being detected on the way. Though he 
speaks fluently, he knows but little of the written language, not 
being able to write so common a character as Kwig, (noble.) 
which he has occasion to use every day. 

He speaks in the highest terms of Mr. Ramaux, Roman Catho- 
lic bishop of Keangse, and says he speaks Chinese better than even 
his own language. (I have since heard that Mr. Ramaux was 
lately drowned in Macao. From some of his letters, I had formed 
a good opinion of him.) The Roman Catholics in Chiua call their 
priests Shin foo, spiritual fathers, and the bishops Ckoo Keaou, 
lords of the religion. 

July 25. Went into the temple with a bundle of thirty or forty 
gospels and tracts in my arm, and found many worshippers. 
Presently some came and asked what books I had. On giving 
one away, there was instantly a crowd of eager applicants, and 
in a few minutes all were disposed of. A hundred more would 
have been taken, if I had thought fit to give them ; but it seemed 
better to stop while they were eager for more, than to give them 
to satiety. 

July 28. This is the birthday of the god of thunder, though, 
as my teacher laughing said, " No one knows how old he is." A 
crowd of men and women were in the temple. My teacher says, 
" Most of the worshippers are women, who greatly fear the thun- 
der, though there are some men. The women like these worship- 
ping days, because it gives them an opportunity to see, and to be 
seen in their fine clothes ; and most of the men who come, come 
to amuse themselves, and look at the women." Among the crowd 
of the common folks, there were many men and women in silks 
and embroideries. Stalls were at every corner, where men were 
selling candles, incense sticks, and paper for offerings. The tem- 
ple was full of smoke ; and the crowd, together with the smoke 
and the burning paper, renders the place almost insupportably hot. 
I took some forty or fifty tracts, but the crowd was so great, and 
the eagerness to get them so excessive, that there was little satis- 
faction in distributing them. 

In the Kea Paou, vol. i., line 562, is this sentence. "Ancient 
men have well said, ' A relation afar off is not so good as a neigh- 
bor that is near.' " Almost word for word with Prov. xxvii. 10. 
' ; Better is a neighbor that is near, than a brother afar off." 

My teacher was greatly shocked to-day, when I said that " Abra- 
ham was the friend of God." " How can it be ?" he exclaimed ; 
" how can a man be the friend of God ; for a friend implies equal- 
ity. Such a thing ought not to be said." These poor heathen 
have little idea of the exceeding grace and condescension of God. 
The other day, talking with him, he advanced the sentiment that 
the affairs of the world to come, being beyond our personal obser- 
vation, are of no importance to us ; that if we attend to our own 
business in this life, the future may be safely left to take care of 
itself. In confirmation of his opinion that the future world is en- 



LETTERS. 313 

tirely beyond our knowledge and concern, he quoted the saying 
of Confucius, " Not knowing even life, how can we know death ?" 
How truly it was said of Christ, " He hath brought life and im- 
mortality to light through the Gospel;" for they were not known 
before, and are not known where the Gospel is not heard. 



Ni?igpo, April 30th, 1845. 
Mrs. C. M. Hepburn— 

.... I have little sympathy for those who delight to say that 
our blessed Saviour never smiled, for when he " rejoiced in spirit," 
and when he heard the little children cry, Hosanna ! it seems to 
me as if a smile, strangely and yet sweetly blending the divine 
and human, must have played upon those features. How pleas- 
ant, more than "pleasant," to see those features, once marked 
with the impress of pain and suffering and sorrow ! They are 
not so marked now, for a glory covers them, such as the disciples 
saw when they were with him in the holy mount, and that glory 
I trust we shall ere long see. 

My previous letter will have informed you of my arrival at Chu- 
san, April 2. I stayed there a week, enjoying greatly the scenery 
and appearance of the place. It quite surpassed my expectations, 
and is vastly more beautiful than anything I have yet seen in 
China, always excepting Chang-Chow and the country around. 
You have nothing at Amoy or Kulangsu equal to Chusan. 

There are some pious soldiers at Chusan, and, among others, 
I was surprised to see Corporal R , who used to be such a con- 
stant visitor of yours at Amoy. He asked very earnestly about 
you all. They all seem very glad of Loomis's going there, and 
he now preaches in the chapel there every Sabbath. I left Chu- 
san on the 10th of April, and go there the next day. Stayed a week 
with Br. Way, and then came over to the Yu-Shing-Kwan mon- 
astery, which is just within the north gate of the city. Dr. 
McCartee has been here for some three or four months, and I got 
a suite of rooms just like his, on the same terms. 

This is a very quiet part of the city, as there are few houses 
near ; the mass of the population lies off in other parts of the city. 
I calculate the inhabitants at two hundred and fifty thousand, in 
eluding the suburbs at the east and west gates, which are very 
extensive and populous. . . . 

We propose observing next Friday as a day of fasting and 
prayer, both for the mission, and as preparatory to the Lord's Sup- 
per, which I am to administer on the Sabbath following. Miss 
Aldersey has a fine girl's school, numbering fifteen pupils, and 
sustains herself well. I hope for much good from the organization 
of a church in these extreme ends of the earth. I trust that ere 
long We ma)'- admit some of the inhabitants of this place into our 
fellowship. . . . 

May 1st. " The laughing month of May ;" though we might al- 



314 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

most apply to it the term given to the following month, " The rose 
encumbered June." 

One of the monks brought me a bouquet of roses to-day, which 
I have arranged in a tumbler beneath my looking-glass. I have 
been busy fitting up my rooms to-day, and have everything now 
arranged much to my mind. 

.... I hope we are all settled now, and will not have to move 
about any more, or make any other changes. I would like to see 
you all ; but when shall it be ? As my sister E. says in her last let- 
ter to me, " I am prepared to say, I hope you will not leave your field 
of labor, even to come and see us." I am sure I am so glad to be 
at my long-desired haven, that it would require no slight induce- 
ment for me to leave it. How nervous I used to feel sometimes, 
on my last trip, for fear I should not get up after all. By what 
strange ways we are led along, and sometimes hard ones to travel. 
" Oh there are some rough ways to heaven." " In the world ye 
shall have tribulation." So our blessed Lord himself said. 

Friday, May 2d. We have been observing this as a day of fast- 
ing and prayer for the mission, and also as preparatory to the 
Lord's Supper. We met at 10 o'clock — only ourselves — six in all. 
Bro. Culbertson conducted the services, and made some very good 
remarks on the duties before us, and the disposition we should 
have. I read a long letter which I have just received from my 
father, in which he gives his views on several points in relation to 
the missionary work in China. I wish you were nearer, I would 
lend it to you. We all led in prayer. In the afternoon we had 
another meeting at four o'clock, which I conducted ; subject of my 
remarks, 1 Cor. xi. 23 ; the administration of the Lord's Supper. 
What a beautiful and forcible passage it is. The Lord's Supper 
was instituted " the same night in which he was betrayed." Oh 
what a night was that ! It was the crisis in the world's history. 
Had our Saviour then drawn back, had the cup passed by him, 
where had we been 1 Earth never saw a night like that. It was 
on that night that Satan's malice and man's wickedness rose to 
their highest point ; and on that night the love of Christ was spe- 
cially shown in the appointment of this solemn and tender ordi- 
nance. How the love of God in Christ stands in shining contrast 
with the wickedness of man and Satan ! And what a beautiful 
sentence that is : " Ye do show the Lord's death till he come." 
He will come again " in the clouds of heaven." Yea, he has told 
us, he will " come quickly." It will be " with power and great 
glory." " We who are alive and remain, shall be caught up with 
the risen saints to meet the Lord in the air." Now we are expect- 
ing it. " We love his appearing," is the characteristic of Christians. 

" Let the vain world pronounce it shame ! 

With joy we tell the scoffing age, 

He that was dead hath left the tomb. 
He lives above their utmost rage, 
And we are waiting till he come." 



LETTERS. 315 

Herein is a beautiful feature of this ordinance. It was instituted 
in the time of Christ's degradation and sorrow, as a memorial of 
the same ; but it is to be observed until the time when he comes 
in power and glory and joy. Every time we observe it we are 
carried back to the scene of his sorrow, and pointed forward to the 
time of his and our joy, when it shall be said to us, " Enter ye 
into the joy of the Lord." Oh that w T hen the bridegroom cometh, 
we may be ready to enter in before the door is shut. 

Our servants are greatly at a loss to find we have eaten so little 
to-day. We tried to explain it, but they could not comprehend 
why it was. I have a very simple-hearted servant, and as soon as 
I came back from the morning service he said, " Mr. Lowrie, don't 
you want something to eat ?" 

May 3. I have been witnessing an idolatrous ceremony in 
another part of the monastery where I live, which has made my 
heart sick. The old gray-headed Taou priest and three of the 
monks were reciting prayers, beating gongs, cymbals, and the like, 
and bowing before their idols. A man had come to offer thanks 
on the birth-day of his son, and the little boy, six years old, sat 
and watched the whole proceeding. Who made me to differ ? 
Why have I such glorious hopes? What have I done to deserve 
them? What am I now doing for him who died for me, and 
called me into the ministry ? 

It is a rainy afternoon. The sky is all of one dull, sombre hue ; 
the rain comes gently yet quickly down, A light wind blows the 
damp air into my apartments, and some noisy birds are chattering 
under the Kwai hwa trees in the court. I should like to have a 
social chat with you at such a time as this ; but we are far away, 
and, moreover, the day draws to a close, and after hearing the boys 
say their lesson, I must finish my preparations for the services of 
to-morrow. Oh, how pleasant to sit at the Lord's table rather than 
at the table of devils ; to hope for God's favor rather than that of 
idols which cannot save ! 

With my love to your husband, and to Lloyd and Brown, 
I remain yours, ever affectionately, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ning-po, May 30th, 1845. 
My Dear Father — 

You will have heard, ere this reaches you, of the departure of 
Messrs. Loomis, Culbertson and myself from Macao, and of our 
safe arrival at Chusan about the first of April. Since that time, 
all things have prospered with us, and we have found much cause 
of encouragement in our field of labor. 

On many accounts we thought it best, that part of the force for 
this field should be stationed at Chusan. These reasons were, 1st. 
The importance of the field itself, as the Chusan Archipelago is 
large and populous, and at the present time, peculiarly open and 



316 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

accessible. The inhabitants of Tinghai, the chief city in Chusan 
Island, are commonly estimated at 30,000, though this is probably 
a large estimate. Judging from what I saw of Chusan, I should 
think the population of the whole island might be 50,000, and of 
the whole archipelago perhaps 100,000. All this is only conjec- 
ture, there may be more, but can hardly be less. This whole 
population is at present without the Gospel, as there is no mission- 
ary of any other Board there, nor did we know of any likely to go. 
2d. As long as Chusan is retained by the English, it is a very 
convenient station for attending to business matters, a considera- 
tion of importance at the commencement of a mission like this. 
3d. It is important as a healthy station during the warm months, 
should any of us need a change at that time. 4th. If Chusan is 
retained by the English, or if foreigners are allowed to remain 
there after it is evacuated, it will continue to be an important sta- 
tion, even more so than at present, for most of the trade of Ningpo 
will then centre there, and it will be an excellent place to send off 
our tracts by vessels that go and come. 5th. . In case no one is al- 
lowed to remain there after next January, no time will have been 
lost ; for the dialect of Chusan so much resembles that of Ningpo, 
that a person accustomed to the one can use the other without 
difficulty. 

Influenced by these reasons, Mr. and Mrs. Loomis have re- 
mained in Chusan. They have a good and comfortable two-story 
house in the city, for which they pay ten dollars monthly rent. 
As Mr. Loomis will doubtless keep you informed of events there, 
it is not needful for us to write much respecting that station. 

Mr. and Mrs. Culbertson arrived here the first week in April, 
and myself the week following. We found Dr. McCartee and Mr. 
and Mrs. Way enjoying good health. Mr. Way occupies a com- 
fortable house, or rather part of one, at one hundred dollars a 
year rent. Mr. Culbertson has another, at one hundred and 
twenty dollars a year. Dr. McCartee and myself occupy rooms 
in a monastery of the Taou sect, within the city walls, for which 
we pay one hundred and twenty dollars a year. The rents are 
one-half less than in Shanghai, and would be still less here, were it 
not for the example of the English, who pay much more than is 
needed. Our rents are twice as much as the Chinese pay. 

As these rents are moderate, and the houses are on the whole 
very passable, it is a question whether it is worth while to build 
or not. For the present we are not disposed to take any steps 
towards erecting houses. After some more experience we shall 
know better, whether it is best to build houses for ourselves. The 
points which we shall need to De assured about are, 1st. Security 
of title and good location. 2d. Expense of building. 3d. Effect 
of living in Chinese houses, which are not made as we would 
make them, and which all need to be fitted up at some expense, 
to make them correspond with our ideas of comfort, and even of 
health. The houses of Mr. Way and Mr. Culbertson are each 



LETTERS. 317 

two stories high. Dr. McCartee and myself have rooms both on 
the ground floor and up stairs, but at present we occupy only the 
former. The general impression is that living on the first floor is 
not so healthy as living above, but Dr. McCartee and myself, 
having a good dry pavement all around our house, and more con- 
venient rooms, have preferred the lower story. 

Dr. McCartee has informed you of his medical practice pre- 
viously to the arrival of Mr. Culbertson and myself ; his proficiency 
in the language is very creditable indeed. 

We have decided on commencing a boys' school, as soon as 
suitable buildings can be procured. There is no difficulty in 
getting scholars, though there may be some in keeping them ; but 
the whole expense must come on the mission, as there is no foreign 
community here, who could contribute anything to their support. 

Mr. Culbei'tson and myself give our attention chiefly to the 
language. In regard to this, it may be stated positively that the 
language both here and at Shanghai is not Mandarin. There 
are many who understand it, but the large majority do not. 

In Ningpo there are, properly speaking, two dialects, the " too 
hwa," or local dialect, which all understand, and the " Ningpo 
koon hwa," which is used by such as make any pretensions to 
learning and refinement. In regard to the former, I am scarcely 
entitled to express an opinion as yet ; but it seems to me, that 
the body of it is Mandarin, a good deal corrupted, while most 
of the connectives, particles, and little words are totally different. 
E. g. for ^ ^ Kinteen, say Kimmi ; for 9£j ^r Mingteen, say 
Mingtseaou ; for 4k ti^f Woteih, say Allah ; &c. 

The consequence is, that a person speaking pure Mandarin 
can scarcely understand them at all ; but they can gather his 
meaning in part. Now, as our business is with the poor and 
the ignorant, this is the dialect we must learn. This is, however, 
very difficult to do. The colloquial is unwritten, i. e., for many 
of the words there are no characters. Moreover, a teacher of any 
abilities is generally averse to teaching the colloquial, and they 
are almost sure not to give it, unless you dig it out of them. 
The common people, such as boatmen and servants, are therefore 
our best resources in getting at the colloquial ; but with them we 
are not sure that the phrases we get will not be low and vulgar. 

The Ningpo Koon Wha, (kwan hiva,) is also a corrupt form 
of the pure court dialect, but so different, that at first I found my 
acquaintance with the latter of but little use. 1 can now, after 
more than a month's study, understand my teacher tolerably 
well, but not so well as though he spoke the purer form. It was 
this corrupt form of the court dialect which Mr. Milne had studied, 
and that he had been studying for a year before he came, so that his 
experience does not show what the true language of the place is. 

I am half inclined to think it would have been more advan- 
tageous if I had studied the Canton dialect ; for, though that 



318 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

differs more from this dialect than the Mandarin does, yet I 
should have learned so much more of it, hearing it spoken on all 
sides, that the fluency in speaking would have compensated for a 
considerable difference in other respects. But as I do not mean 
to neglect my Mandarin, hoping I may yet live to enter Pekin, 
it is best perhaps that it should be as it is. 

It is necessary, or at least highly desirable, that we should 
acquire the Ningpo Mandarin, as well as the Too hwa. This it 
is not difficult to do ; for, while studying the latter, especially if 
we study books at all, it is scarcely possible to avoid picking up 
more or less of the former. I am not yet prepared to say that the 
Ningpo Koon hwa does not bear the same relation to the Too 
hwa, which the speech of a polished Englishman does to that of 
a Yorkshireman. or even of the lower classes in London. If this 
be the case, a question of some consequence will arise, How far 
should Ave use the Too hioa in our prayers and solemn addresses 1 
For example, is it proper for a person addressing a congregation 
of colored people in the United States, to pray in the broken 
English which they use, when they can understand, though not 
so well, the more chastened language we use in our addresses to 
the Supreme Being 1 

I should be glad to know the custom and the views of the 
English missionaries in the West Indies, or of some of the mis- 
sionaries to the colored people in the south. 

You may think this is a degrading comparison to the Chinese, 
but the fact is that the educated classes look down with great 
disdain on the common people ; and much like the philosophers 
of old, they can scarce conceive what the lower orders have to do 
with learning and science, or what we want with the Too hwa. 

Hence if our tracts are written in a plain and simply style, 
the learned throw them away as trash ; but eagerly peruse them 
if written in what they call the classic style, a style of all others 
most unfit to teach clearly that Gospel which is preached unto 
the poor. The misfortune is, that the poor, for whom our tracts 
are most suitable, are seldom able to read. Readers will multiply, 
doubtless, but slowly; and the impression formed more than a 
year ago gains strength in my mind, that a change must come 
over the Chinese literature like that which so totally transformed 
the literature of Europe about the time of the reformation. 

The difference between the written and the spoken language, 
even in Mandarin where it is least, is a serious obstacle in our 
way. As but little is known respecting this, I will add a few 
sentences explaining it, though I am not sure that I can convey 
a very clear idea of what it is. 

The spoken language of China, (my remarks are about the 
Mandarin, but they are substantially true of all the dialects,) is 
like all other languages in the world, polysyllabic. I am aware 
that some of our best scholars, with whom I would not pretend 
to compare myself, assert the contrary ; but to me it seems as 



SPOKEN AND WRITTEN LANGUAGE OF THE CHINESE. 3l9 

plain as that two and two make four, that if words have anj 
meaning, the Chinese spoken language is not monosyllabic. For 
example, If I want to say, 

a thing, the proper word is . . tung-se ; 

lantern " . . tung lung ; 

teeth " . . ya-ch' ; 

mouth " . . tsuy-pa ; 

father " . . foo-tsin, or kea-foo ; 

husband " . . chang-foo ; 

a (respectable) woman " . . foo-jin ; 

an axe " . . foo-tow ; 

officer " . . kwan-foo ; 

deputy governor " . . foo-yuen. 

I believe in regard to all of these, (unless perhaps foo-tsin) that 
u iless one uses both syllables, he will not be understood. 

This list might be increased to volumes. It is not meant that 
these are the only words used, but they are the common ones ; 
nor that there are not many monosyllables, just as there are in 
English. In consequence of this fact, that the spoken language 
is not monosyllabic, it would be perfectly easy to write it with 
Roman characters ; and there would be no more danger of mis- 
taking the meaning than there is in English. In consequence of 
this also, I am inclined to think that we should learn to speak 
faster and better, by not attempting the Chinese characters at all, 
at first ; and were my missionary life to be gone over, I would do 
so. It is the way the Roman Catholic missionaries do. So much 
for the spoken language. This is not the first time I have ex- 
pressed these views. 

Now in regard to the written language, the case is very different. 
There are a vast number of characters, and most, not all, of them 
are complete in themselves ; the sound of many of them is alike, 
but their shape and meaning are different. See them, and you 
know at once what they mean. Hear them, and the first Hanlin 
in the empire cannot tell you. 

For example, you will have seen in the foregoing list, how often 

the syllable foo occurs. There is ~V foo, a father ; y^ foo, a 
husband ; JM- foo, an officer ; foo, a deputy governor. Look at 
them, and there is no mistaking the meaning ; but hear them, 
and you must hear the whole word. E. g. A? foo becomes, A? =tM 
foo-tsin, a father ; =fe foo becomes, ^ ^C Chang-foo, a husband ; 
V& foo becomes, *& Jffi Kwan-foo, a Magistrate ; JJl foo be- 
comes i|| fj£ foo-yuen, Deputy-Governor. There is no more 
danger of mistaking the meaning when you hear the second, than 
there is when you see the first. But in writing, which is intended 
to meet the eye, there is no occasion to write both characters, as 



320 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

one conveys at a glance all that is wanted, provided you only 
know it. Hence in writing, commonly only one character of the 
compound word is written ; and the man who reads alond, in or- 
der that others may understand, supplies the additional syllable 
as he goes along. E. g. If a man in reading was simply to read 
foo, and some one of the hearers was at a loss as to the meaning, 
he would say, Chay Ting, Shi Shih yin Foo Tsze, "what foo 
character is that ?" And the only reply would be, Foo-Tsin, Teih 
Foo. " The foo in < footsin,' " or, Kwan Foo, Teih Foo. " The 
foo in Kwan/oo." I have heard such expressions hundreds of 
times. 

Here then is the radical difference between the written and 
spoken language. The classical style abbreviates as much as 
possible, using only one syllable, whenever that one will convey 
the meaning to the eye. The intermediate style is not so very 
close ; and the iSeaou iShwo, or vulgar style, approaches closely 
to the spoken language, in using very often both the characters 
that form a word. But a scholar will scarcely degrade himself by 
writing, and never by praising such a style. 

When a boy goes to school, the first thing he does is to learn 
the names of the characters, but not their meaning. Five years 
are spent at this, and at the end of that time, he can perhaps re- 
peat the whole of the Four Books, without knowing the meaning 
of a solitary character. Then the characters are explained to 
him. The teacher takes the Four Books, or some other volume, 
and goes over each character one by one. " This -4£ foo char- 
acter is the character for father — i. e. Foo-tsin." "This 1m 1 foo 
character is the character for officer — i. e. Kwan-foo." " This •^ 
foo character is the character for husband, Chang-foo ;" and so he 
goes on, explaining in the colloquial, which of course the boy knows, 
the meaning of the written, which he can repeat, but does not 
understand. There are a vast number of persons whose educa- 
tion is not finished, i. e., who can read, but not understand. If 
you see a boy reading, you may almost take it for granted, that 
he does not know the meaning of what he reads. Dr. McCartee has 
three boys, aged, one sixteen years, and the others fourteen and fif- 
teen, all of whom can read, and the two elder can write beautifully ; 
but nearly all they know of the meaning of the characters, they 
have learned within the last six months ; and though they know 
the names of far more characters than I do, 1 doubt whether they 
understand half as many. 

This difference between the written and spoken dialects is the 
radical one. There are others, however, not less perplexing. The 
greatest is, the pedantry of the Chinese, which is incomparably 
worse than Dr. Johnson's, and has nothing of his powerful intel- 
lect and varied intelligence to render it tolerable. High-flown ex- 
pressions are employed, and most laboriously concise sayings, 
covering as common-place thoughts as you will meet with in the 



LETTERS — NINGPO. gOJ 

essays of a village newspaper. For example, there is the first 
sentence from the Shang-Lun, or Sayings of Confucius, — Tse 
yue, heo wrh she seih che poo yih shwo hoo ? '• The philoso- 
pher says, To learn, and times to practise it, not also gratifying, 
eh ?'*' Yue pang tsuh yuen fang tae poo yih yo hoo, " To have 
friends from distant places come, not also joyful, eh?" gin poo 
che urh poo, poo yeh ke tse hoo 1 " Men not know, yet not 
be displeased, not also a worthy man, eh ?" The above is literal : 
here is the meaning. " Confucius says, ' That men should learn 
what is virtuous, and constantly practise the same, is not this grat- 
ifying ? That persons of the same sentiments with myself, should 
come to me from a distant place to learn, is not this a cause of 
joy ? But for men to be ignorant of the virtues of another, and 
he, notwithstanding, be perfectly satisfied, and careless of applause 
on account of his merits, is he not a worthy prince indeed ?' " Bat 
I have written more than I meant to do, and fear you are as tired 
as I am myself. This subject may therefore pass, unless you write 
for more particulars. 

The city of Ningpo lies nearly in the centre of a large plain, sur- 
rounded on all sides by mountains, and intersected by innumerable 
canals, which are nearly all navigable, and serve the double pur- 
pose of irrigation and travelling. A covered boat and boatmen 
can be had for a whole day for twenty-five cents, and whenever 
we want to extend our ramble any distance beyond the city, we 
find it most convenient to make use of them. The plain is at 
least twenty miles in diameter in its narrowest part, and much 
wider in other places. The whole of this great amphitheatre is 
thickly studded over with villages and farm-houses, and has two 
or three large cities besides Ningpo. Foreigners are not allowed 
to wander beyond the keen, or district of which Ningpo is the cap- 
ital. Its exact dimensions we do not well know, but we can go 
at least three miles on every side, and in one -direction as many 
as twenty or thirty. By a little prudence and care r we shall 
doubtless obtain a wider range for our excursions. For the pres- 
ent, unable as we are to speak with fluency, the field is vastly 
larger than we can profitably occupy; and whenever we can 
speak well, we doubt not the door will be opened wider. Should 
it not be opened, the question will arise, whether obedience to a 
higher authority and covenant than any of human devising, will 
not justify us in exceeding the limits that have been fixed, and 
preaching in other cities the Kingdom of God. On this point there 
is some diversity of opinion amongst us ; but I am disposed to 
think that a blessing would attend our efforts, if carried on. occa- 
sionally at least, where the prince of this world now exercises su- 
preme authority. Opposition and excitement on the part of the 
rulers would but rouse attention to our work. But it may be 
thought that this is looking too far ahead. 

The foreign trade of Ningpo is not so great as it once was. It 
once carried on an important commerce with Manila, when South 
21 



322 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

America belonged to Spain, as well as with other parts of the 
Chinese Empire. But of late years Shanghai has greatly sur- 
passed it, and the latter city is likely to possess by much the lar- 
gest share of trade with western lands. When the treaty was 
formed in 1842, it was supposed by Sir Henry Pottinger, Mr. Mor- 
rison, and nearly every other person, that Ningpo would be the 
most important of the five ports ; but it has been found, that the 
vicinity of Shanghai to the City of Loochow, and to the grand 
canal, give it great advantages over any of the other ports. The 
best days of Ningpo are probably past, and painful evidences of 
decay are visible on all sides. Still it has a considerable trade with 
Fuhkeen, and with the northern provinces ; and numerous junks 
are constantly lying in the river. It offers more advantages to 
Americans than to the English, as it lies nearer to the green tea 
district, and offers a good market for the sale of American manu- 
factured goods. 

The people are as civil and obliging as could reasonably be ex- 
pected, considering the severe and uncalled for treatment they re- 
ceived during the war, and the thoughtless course of some of the 
English officers, in destroying the public buildings for firewood. 
We are better treated here, by far, than a Chinaman would be in 
New York or London ; though it does occasionally ruffle one's 
temper to hear himself called a pah-kwei, or white devil, with some 
other such choice epithets. So far as I have seen, there is little 
difference between this place and Shanghai in that respect ; and 
the difference in favor of this place, which was observed not long 
ago, was probably owing to the fear of foreigners then fresh in 
mind, but now wearing off. 

We have lately organized a church here, under the title, "Pres- 
byterian Church of Ningpo," of which Mr. Culbertson has been 
elected pastor. It consists of seven members, to wit : D. B. 
McCartee, Hingapoo, a Chinese servant of Mr. Way's, together 
with Mrs. Way, Mrs. Culbertson, Miss Aldersey, Ruth Ati, and 
Christiana Kit. The two latter are Chinese girls whom Miss 
Aldersey has educated, and who were baptized by Mr. Medhurstin 
Java. Dr. McCartee was elected ruling elder, and Mr. Way and 
myself also act as ruling elders for the time being. The church 
was regularly organized on the 18th inst., when Mr. Culbertson 
preached a sermon on Acts ii. 42-47, and Dr. McCartee was or- 
dained as ruling elder, with the laying on of hands of the bishop, 
and the right hand of fellowship from Mr. Way and myself, in our 
capacity as ruling elders. It was a good day to us all ; and 
though the beginning is small, we trust the latter end will greatly 
increase. It is a day of small things, but a day not to be despised. 
As this is the first Presbyterian church in China, pray for us that 
the small one may become a thousand, and the weak one a strong 
nation. 

May 31st. In regard to the facilities for distributing tracts a 
good deal might be said, but the nature of it, would depend much 



LETTERS. 323 

on the disposition of the person who writes. Any number might 
be given away. I would undertake to give to eager applicants 
more than as many as our press could possibly print, but the mis- 
fortune is, that they would be just as eagerly sought after, if they 
were copies of Paine's Age of Reason, or any other book in the 
world. I think each member of our mission disapproves of indis- 
criminate distribution. We do not yet know the proportion of the 
people who can read, though it is probably small ; yet we have an 
excellent opportunity here of circulating tracts and gospels, and 
there is rarely a day that Dr. McCartee and myself do not give 
away one or more, where we are pretty sure they will be read. 
We regard this, therefore, as an important means of circulating 
the principles of our religion, though greatly inferior to the oral 
preaching of the Word. 

You have several times spoken of the ease with which a synon- 
ymous character might be substituted, in case we could not make 
the required one with the types on hand. This is a thing very 
difficult to do ; for there are very few characters indeed, that are 
properly speaking synonymous. It is much better to get the char- 
acters wanted cut by the hand, on metal blocks, which we can 
commonly have done without difficulty. I must stop now, for my 
letter is swelling to an unreasonable length. 

I remain your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ningpo, July 22d, 1845. 
My Dear Mother — 

.... Did you ever notice Psalm xxx. 5. " His anger endureth 
but a moment, in his favor is life. Weeping may endure for a 
night, but joy cometh in the morning." Is not that beautiful? 
But here is a literal translation of it, which is, if possible, still 
more beautiful and expressive : 

" A moment in his anger, 
But lifetimes in his favor : 
In the evening, weeping will abide ; 
But in the morning there is shouting." 

Observe the force of the expression. "In the evening, weeping 
will abide." It " will abide." It threatens to remain long with 
us ; sorrow seems as if it were about to take up its abode. Night 
is before us, and we see no sun, no day, no joy beyond. But the 
night quickly passes, "as a dream of the night," and what then? 
" In the morning there is shouting." And how true it is. Just 
compare Isaiah liv. 7, with 2 Corinthians iv. 17. 

That a person can be a Christian, and yet afraid of death, I 
have no doubt. Indeed, I suppose most Christians are so. But 
why should it be so? It is hardly correct to say, " The Bible says 
' Death is the king of terrors.' " Bildad the Shuhite said so, or some- 



324 MEMOIR OF WALTER. M. LOWRIE. 

thing like it, for I am not sure that he meant death by that ex- 
pression ; but if he did, I would not like to take all he said for the 
Bible. The New Testament does not so represent it. It says 
that Christ "gave up the ghost," and that Stephen "fell asleep." 
The apostle says, even of the offending Corinthian Christians, 
" many sleep ;" and of deceased Christians generally, that they 
" are asleep." Asleep ! what is so peaceful ! quiet repose in 
Christ ! how long or short it matters little. Soon the Lord will 
come again, and them that are asleep will he bring with him. 
How soon ? We know not ; but soon, not a thousand years off, 
but so soon that we may not fall asleep, perhaps, before he 

comes 

As ever, affectionately yours, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ningpo, August 2d, 1845. 
My Dear Father — 

.... My health is better, so far, this year, than any year since 
I came to China. Still, however, the warm weather has a weak- 
ening effect, which we all feel more or less. There is too in this 
place a constant tendency to diarrhoea in summer, which needs a 
good deal of care to avoid it. In another month the cool weather 
will commence. If this year be a fair specimen of Ningpo sum- 
mer, I think there is every prospect of good health here. It is 
said, however, to be cooler than usual. .' . . 

I am now engaged in preparing a copy of Luke for publication, 
with short notices, which I hope will be ready by the end of the 
year ; and perhaps I shall prepare also Acts in the same way. I 
am losing faith in the doctrine, " The Bible without note or com- 
ment," at least as far as the Chinese are concerned, from the often 
witnessed fact, that the most intelligent of them fall into frequent 
and gross mistakes as to its meaning. For example, many think 
we worship our ancestors, because the Lord's prayer commences, 
" Our Father, which art in heaven." If we only had enough of our 
small type, Luke and the comments might make a volume of 
seventy-five or one hundred pages. With Dyer's type, and the 
Paris type, it will be one hundred and fifty or more, and conse- 
quently far more expensive, and, as I think, not so good-looking. 
Perhaps if we print it, we may get enough of small type cut by 
hand to supply all we want. This will be expensive, but not 
much more so than to use so much more paper, &c, with larger 
type. 

. . . . " The Lord reigneth, let the earth rejoice." His own cause 
is infinitely dear to him, and our follies, weaknesses, sins, mis- 
takes, all things shall not retard it ; no, not for one moment. His 
way may be in darkness and storms, and the clouds may be but 
the dust of his feet ; but in due time, at the appointed season, all 
will be plain. Till then, " Wo unto the world because of 'offences 



LEAVES FROM THE NOTE-BOOK OF A MISSIONARY. 325 

It must needs be that offences come ;" but I pray God that they 

come not from us. Oh for that happy time when they shall not 

hurt nor destroy, nor cause to offend, in all God's holy mountain. 

Ever affectionately your son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



LEAVES FROM THE NOTE-BOOK OF A MISSIONARY. NO. III. 

It is a fact which can neither be denied, nor sufficiently lamented, 
that the influence of nominal Christians in heathen lands is too 
often adverse to Christianity. It is not necessary to refer to the 
countenance, and in some instances open patronage which some 
Christian governments have given to idolatry, nor to their exces- 
sive scruples, lest their subjects should, in the slightest degree, in- 
terfere with the religious belief or the prejudices of the heathen, 
while equally reprehensible interference with their social customs 
and laws and feelings are overlooked and neglected. Of the mass 
of nominal Christians in heathen lands, it must be said, that while 
often retaining, in a high degree, the character of gentlemen, up- 
right as men of business, and most obliging in their deportment to 
strangers, they, with few exceptions, drop that of a Christian. To 
do business on the Sabbath, in many places, is so common, that it 
is the rule rather than the exception. In a frequented port I have 
noticed that more ships were sent to sea on the Sabbath, than on 
any other day of the week ; and I have heard it said in reference 
to this, " the better day the better deed !" while, with very many, 
the Sabbath is the day for visiting and amusement. Where there 
is divine service in English, a part of the community attend, and 
generally give a most respectful attention ; but the large majority 
are never seen in a house of worship, even where they have the 
means of easiest access to it. Of profane swearing, and of some 
vices of which it is a shame even to speak, it is not my purpose 
now to write anything, nor to add more on this topic than this : 
that far too commonly, even where there is nothing outwardly in- 
correct, the heathen would never suspect that those coming from 
Christian lands had any more religion than a Mohammedan, or a 
Parsee, or an infidel. 

But though a regard to truth requires these melancholy facts to 
be stated, it equally requires to be made known that there are 
some bright and honorable exceptions. There are few places 
where any number of foreign residents are collected, where there 
are not a few who are " clothed in white ;" and were it proper to 
do so, the writer of this article, and perhaps nearly every mission- 
ary, could speak of " honorable men and devout women," who are, 
in their appropriate spheres, lights to the heathen, and examples 
to their own countrymen. Without speaking of any who are now 
living, or betraying the confidence reposed in me by those who are 
dead, I wish to trace a few lines respecting one with whom I spent 



326 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

many a pleasant hour, which, while they confirm the statements 
just made, will give another evidence of the incidental benefits of 
missionary operations. 

During the greater part of my residence in , there was no 

other clergyman there, and, as there was a small number of Eng- 
lish and American residents, several of whom had their families 
with them, I was in the habit of conducting divine service on the 
Sabbath morning, with some occasional meetings, and also admin- 
istering the Lord's Supper once a month. The number of attend- 
ants on the Sabbath varied from twenty to fifty, (there were one 
hundred and fifty who might have attended), and from sis to 
twelve sat down at the Lord's table. Among the constant attend- 
ants was a lady with whom I became slightly acquainted, and 
whose earnest attention to the word preached, was such as I have 
seldom seen equalled. Of a sweet disposition and polished man- 
ners, she was a general favorite, and had so many visitors, that it 
was seldom possible for me to see her alone ; and this, joined to 
an exceeding diffidence to speak on religious subjects, prevented 
me, for a long time, from forming much acquaintance with her, 
or seeing fully the character of her piety. She was a member of 
an evangelical church in her own land, and, maintaining a con- 
sistent deportment, she commonly met with us when the Lord's 
Supper was administered. On one occasion, however, she declined 
coming, without assigning any reason, and on the next occasion 
did the same. Not feeling that I possessed the pastor's right to 
inquire into the matter, nor being sufficiently acquainted to do it 
as a friend, I was at some loss what to do, and even wronged her 
so much as to think that her refusal to come might have proceed- 
ed from improper motives. After waiting several months, and ob- 
serving no change in her consistent deportment, nor her attention 
to the ordinances of the sanctuary, it seemed a duty to see her, 
and, if in my power, to assist her. But the place was then full of 
visitors ; and after some ineffectual attempts to see her alone, I 
wrote her a note, urging on her the importance and benefit of 
meeting with her fellow-Christians, and offering any assistance or 
instruction in my power. An immediate answer was returned, 
on the perusal of which it was difficult to refrain from tears. Her 
declining to attend at the administration of the Lord's Supper 
arose from no want of desire to do so, for it was her earnest wish 
to be a disciple of the Saviour, but from some views of Christian 
character and experience respecting which she had had no Chris- 
tian friend to set her right. Being exceedingly afraid of death, 
she thought this a proof that she could not be a Christian ; but 
her whole note breathed so thoroughly the spirit of one of " the 
lambs of the flock," and exhibited so many of the marks which 
are found in all true believers, that, after pointing her attention 
to them, in answer to her question, " Do you think I ought to 
come to the Lord's table?" I could not but reply, "For you, and 
such as you, there is a special right, and a special place reserved," 



LEAVES FROM THE NOTE-BOOK OF A MISSIONARY. 327 

or something to that effect. The answer sent relieved her mind 
so much, that on the next day she met with us, and afterwards, 
overcoming- her natural reluctance to speak of herself and her re- 
ligious feelings to a stranger, she frequently applied to me for 
counsel, and, during the few remaining months of my sojourn in 
, gave me many opportunities of assisting her in her pilgrim- 
age. It was delightful to witness her Christian character ex- 
panding, and her rapid growth in grace and in knowledge. Timid 
as a bird in an unknown region, or a child that is but just begin- 
ning to walk, her chief anxiety seemed to be, to know and to do 
the will of the Lord. Too delicate a plant to have braved the 
winds that others might endure, I could not but notice how the 
Lord " stayed his rough w T ind in the day of his east wind," and 
caused the temptations that fell more heavily on others to turn 
away from her. Ever anxious to know the truth, she put many 
a question to me, which my own limited experience scarcely ena- 
bled me to answer, while her gratitude for the assistance she re- 
ceived, formed, at the time, one of the sweetest solaces, and now, 

one of the pleasantest remembrances of my sojourn in . I % 

never heard an unkind or slighting expression from her lips, in 
regard to any of her associates ; while for some, and especially for 
her husband and children, her anxiety for their salvation was 
deep and overpowering. She frequently asked respecting mission- 
ary operations among the heathen, and, when I came away, put 
a considerable sum of money in my hands, to be used in any way 
to facilitate labors among them. 

Several months passed thus away, and it became needful for 

me to leave . She did not attempt to conceal her deep regret 

when she bade me farewell, for, owing to her natural diffidence, 
she feared that it would be long before she should meet another 
to whom she could so freely resort for counsel. One or two let- 
ters, breathing the same deep and simple earnestness in seeking 
the favor of God, followed me to my new place of residence ; but 
ere the answer to her second note reached her, she was no more. 
A sickness that she had foreseen, and from which she had scarcely 
expected to recover, carried her away. She had, all her life, been 
much afraid of death ; and this, as much as anything else, led her 
to suspect her own piety ; nor could all my counsels enable her to 
overcome it. But, as the pious Bunyan remarks, " The river [of 
death] to some has had its Sowings and its ebbings when others 
have gone over. It has been, in a manner, dry for some, while it 
has overflowed its banks for others." When the trying hour came, 
her gentle spirit was sustained by an unseen hand ; and, with the 
utmost calmness, she made every arrangement for her departure, 
spoke words of consolation to her weeping husband, and slept in 
Jesus. 



328 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 



JOURNAL AT NINGPO. 

August 7th. Mr. and Mrs. Culbertson went to Chusan yesterday, 
and Dr. McCartee to-day, principally for health. I am left alone in 
the temple. Commenced to-day for the first time explaining the por- 
tion of the Scriptures read at prayers, and reading a prayer. Took 
the " Two Friends," as being easier for me, and more colloquial 
than the Gospels, and was told by Azhik, when done, that he un- 
derstood all I said. This was encouraging, for I spoke " with 
stammering lips," but it is likely to be a profitable exercise. Went 
this afternoon to take a view from the " Teen fung ta," a tower of 
Ningpo ; but though it was clear on one side, the other was so 
covered with smoke that little could be seen. From the door to 
the highest platform are one hundred and fifty steps, which, being 
about eight inches each on an average, gives one hundred feet as 
the height. To the roof of the highest platform is perhaps ten 
feet more, and ten feet above this for the top, with five feet for the 
foundation above ground, gives about one hundred and twenty- 
five feet as the total height. The walls are very thick, at the top 
over five feet even. It has seven stories, each lighted by six win- 
dows, with a wooden railing in each to prevent accidents. It looks 
old and ruinous, and suffers much for want of the wooden projec- 
tions, with which it was once ornamented. 

The view from the top was magnificent, and in a clear day 
must be enchanting. The citadel of Chinhai ; the hills all around, 
except in the direction where the plain is lost in the sea ; the nu- 
merous towns and villages ; and the three rivers meandering 
through the plain, form a scene of beauty rarely witnessed. The 
city and suburbs seem very extensive as seen from the summit. 
There are a vast number of trees in all directions, principally the 
small dark Junipers, over the tombs. 

August 8. Exhibiting a microscope to my teacher and servants, 
at which they were in great astonishment. The beautiful work- 
manship of the instrument itself, (a present from a kind friend in 
New York,) attracted much admiration ; but its power in display- 
ing minute objects was a thing of Avhich they had formed no pre- 
vious conception. The hairy leg of a fly was an object of especial 
curiosity, and they exclaimed frequently, "Why, the fly's leg has 
hairs ! the fly's leg has hairs !" 

The weather is now warm, and weakening in its effects. One's 
strength is easily exhausted, and two or three hours of close appli- 
cation, either to the pen or one's books, is fatiguing. 

August 9. A feast for the dead, who have no surviving children 
to worship them, is just now (nine o'clock, p. m.) going on outside 
of my rooms. Two long ropes, with numerous strips of colored 
paper suspended, are hung along the sides of the streets, and tables 
with various eatables, as eggs, water-lily roots, beans, fish, ginger, 
rice, cups of spirits, and the like, are spread over them. At one 
end is a hideous monster made of paper, and at the other a com- 



JOURNAL AT NINGPO. 329 

pany of priests are performing some monotonous ceremonies. 
Budhist and Taou priests mingle together in the rites, and the 
little children look on it as a great " raree-show." The object is 
to feed the souls of dead men in this neighborhood, who have 
no children left to provide for their wants. Contributions have 
been given by the neighbors around to the amount of four thousand 
cash, and as all the expenses will scarcely amount to one thousand, 
the remainder will of course fall into the pockets of the priests. 

It is now early harvest for millet and rice. The grain is threshed 
very soon after being cut, and entirely by hand. Threshing-floors 
seem unknown, though the paved fronts of large old tombs and 
similar places are often used for drying floors. After being cut, or 
pulled up as the case may be, which is done handful by handful, 
the stalks are spread out to dry for a day or two, and then carried 
to the threshing box, which is moved from place to place as it is 
wanted. This box is about four feet square by two deep, being 
wider at the top than at the bottom. In the box on one side there 
is a strong frame of long strips of bamboo, against which the heads 
of the grain are beaten, while a large mat on the other three sides 
prevents them from flying away, and they fall down to the bottom 
of the box. It is slow and hard work, but seems quite effectual. 
After drying this grain some days longer, it is winnowed, either in 
sieves in the open air, or in a windmill, much the same as those 
used by farmers in the United States. After this the rice must be 
pounded in mortars, or rubbed between two wooden grinders to 
remove the husk adhering to each separate grain. There is a vast 
deal of labor in cultivating rice, as the Chinese do it. The grain 
is first steeped in water, then sowed in nursery beds, then trans- 
planted by hand, then weeded, an operation which requires men 
to go over the field on their hands and knees, in mud and water a 
foot deep, irrigated two or three times by water-wheels, cut. 
threshed, dried, winnowed, pounded, winnowed again, and I do 
not know how many more operations. 

Saturday evening, August 23. A warm oppressive day. Feel- 
ing a slight headache in the evening, I went out and sat down on 
the wall by the north gate, to enjoy what little wind might be 
stirring. Several workmen who lodged in the guard-house over 
the gate, came up to me, and after a few questions and answers 
we were on the best possible terms. The conversation, where all 
were in a good-humor, and all wanted to talk, was very mixed, 
and sometimes diverting enough. After a few ordinary phrases, I 
began to find myself out of my depth, but still a word here and 
there, and half a sentence sometimes, kept us going. At last I 
asked them " what gods they worshipped ?" to which some replied, 
" Yuh-kwang," (the Jewelled Emperor,) also •'Kwan-yin," and va- 
rious others. On this I remarked that these were all false gods, 
mere wood and clay, they were unable to speak, hear, see or walk. 
Of what use were they ? Why should they be worshipped ? 
These remarks excited frequent bursts of laughter, with exclama- 



330 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

tions, " True !" u Just so !" and the like. They then asked if we 
had no idols in our country, on which, " with stammering lips, and 
in another tongue," I set before them the only object of worship, 
the true God, the Supreme Ruler of all, the hearer of prayer, and 
his son Jesus Christ. They were astonished when told that he 
could see, hear, and speak, and asked various questions, to many 
of which I found it difficult to reply. On coming away several of 
them requested me to " come again to-morrow." 

Wednesday, September 3. Dr. McCartee and myself started on 
a trip of relaxation and exploration, meaning to visit Teentung, a 
celebrated Budhist monastery, some twenty-five miles south of 
Ningpo. We engaged a boat large enough to accommodate our- 
selves, with my teacher, and a servant, besides the two boatmen. 
The charge for the boat and boatmen is about half a dollar a day. 

The boat being somewhat slow in starting, we strolled through 
a large grave-yard near the landing. Numerous coffins were 
lying about on the top of the ground with no covering whatever, 
and some were almost fallen to pieces through age. There were 
three stone buildings about ten or twelve feet square, and as many 
high, intended for the reception of children's bones. One was the 
" Children's Pagoda," and the others the " Boy's Pagoda," and 
" Girls' Pagoda." Such buildings are common, for in China little 
attention is paid to the burial of children, unless they happen to 
be the first born. Instead of the massive coffins in which the re- 
mains of adults are laid, a slight box is nailed together, in which 
they are deposited, and laid anywhere, until, the frail structure 
having decayed, and the flesh disappeared, the bones are collected 
and put in such buildings as these. 

Continuing our walk through the suburb, which is long and 
wide, and near the city very populous, we gave away some tracts, 
but refused many applicants, on the ground that they could not 
read. It soon began to rain, and getting into our boat, we pro- 
ceeded rapidly on our way. We slept rather uncomfortably in 
the boat, and arrived during the night at the hills within six miles 
of Teentung. 

The next morning on awaking we found ourselves at the foot 
of some hills, and as far as the boat could go. The country around 
had an inviting aspect, and we began to promise ourselves much 
pleasure in rambling about among the hills. But to our dismay, 
heavy showers of rain came up every few minutes, and it soon ap- 
peared that there was small prospect of getting comfortably to 
Teentung. There are no nice covered coaches here, nor good 
broad roads, and the only conveyances to be had consisted of open 
sedan chairs, in which ourselves, and what was worse, our bedding 
and changes of raiment, were sure to be thoroughly wet. After 
some hesitation we deemed it best, since the weather was so un- 
promising, to keep to the boat, and instead of going directly to 
Teentung, to go to Tung-woo, a romantic lake among the hills, 
and see what the prospect might be from there. The hills are less 



JOURNAL AT NINGPO. 331 

barren than those farther south, and produce a good deal of long 
coarse grass, and stunted brush, suitable for fire-wood, (" the grass 
of the field to-day is, and to-morrow is cast into the oven ;") but 
they are scarcely susceptible of profitable cultivation. All the val- 
leys, however, which are large, and the hollows between the hills, 
which are numerous, are well cultivated, and the population is 
great. Villages are in profusion. 

During the day we came to a large hill of coarse red sandstone, 
which has been worked as a stone quarry for some two hundred 
years, and is more than half cut away. We went to see it in a 
driving rain, and found it a singular scene. Avenues were cut in 
various directions, as the veins of the stone happened to be best 
adapted for working. In some places, high rocks were left stand- 
ing, like castles towering in the air, and close by there would be 
excavations dug down in the solid rock as many as twenty feet 
and more. Vast masses of rubbish were piled about on every side, 
so as to render walking in some places difficult, while the driving 
rain, and the wind rushing among the broken rocks, gave an air 
of indescribable wildness to the scene. A number of men were 
working in the rain, all of whom seemed cheerful and civil enough. 
We left a few tracts, though there were but few who could read. 

Thence we proceeded till we came in sight of Tung-woo ; but 
to our disappointment found the water in the canal so low, (not- 
withstanding the late heavy rains,) that we could not reach the 
lake in our boat, and the frequent showers precluded the idea of 
walking. We turned our faces towards Yuh-wang, a large Bud- 
hist monastery, with two high towers, which we had seen during 
the morning. 

We reached the monastery a little before sunset, and found it 
so embowered in trees that the buildings were not visible till we 
were close to them. The Budhist priests have certainly, what is 
rather uncommon among other classes, a good deal of taste in the 
selection of their residences. This monastery is beautifully situ- 
ated in a gorge of two hills, with another hill directly in front. 
This does not furnish a very wide prospect in any direction, but it 
makes the place quiet and retired. A brick wall inclosing several 
acres of ground goes round the monastery. Entering the main 
gate, we went down to the bottom of the valley, crossed a little 
bridge thrown over the valley stream, and ascending a slight ele- 
vation of some twenty feet or more, entered the buildings, and pro- 
ceeding through one or two large court-yards, were politely re- 
ceived by the monks, and shown into the strangers' apartments, a 
set of three or four rooms, with some chairs, tables, and bedsteads. 
Monasteries and temples are the principal inns in China, though 
they seldom furnish more than four walls and a roof. The trav- 
eller is expected to furnish his own bedding and food, and to have 
some one to prepare it for him, though the latter service can gen- 
erally be performed for him by extempore cooks, if he is willing to 
put up with the ignorance of foreign modes and dirty habits, by 



332 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

which they are generally distinguished. It is, however, the safest 
and cheapest plan for the traveller to have his own servant along ; 
and though some good friend of missions at home may ask what 
business a plain missionary has to carry a servant about with him, 
yet such would do well to consider, that here we have no comfort- 
able inns, with separate rooms which we can lock when we go 
out, and where everything in the -shape of bedding and food is 
prepared for us by attentive landlords. But this is digression. — 
Being wearied by the confinement of our boat, we were glad to 
get our supper ; and after a hasty glance at the buildings, as it 
was now dark, we soon went to bed, but did not rest very well, for 
there was an abundance of fleas, and having neglected our own 
musketo curtains, we were fain to use some we found in the mon- 
astery, which did not shelter us perfectly from the attacks of the 
musketoes. 

The first building is a large high structure of only one story. 
Within it is about one hundred feet long by seventy broad, and 
the roof is supported by numerous wooden pillars, standing on 
stone bases. The Chinese have not the art of supporting a roof 
without using so many pillars as to diminish materially the effect 
of a large room. The principal objects in this room were three 
immense figures, the Three Precious Buddhas. They were sit- 
ting with their feet drawn up like tailors at work, and were of 
immense size. Judging from the base of the seat on which they 
sat, and which, though twelve feet square, they quite covered, 
they must have been eighteen or twenty feet high, even in their 
sitting posture. They were richly gilt, and between them stood 
two attendants, gilt all over, and perhaps twelve feet high. They 
did not seem to have much worship paid to them, and the spar- 
rows which had made their nests in the roof above, defiled the 
place with dirt. Behind these figures, and facing the other way, 
was the image of Kwan Yin, " She who regards the prayers of 
the world," sitting on a horse, (or ass ?) and carrying a child in her 
arms. Several attendants stood round her shrine, which was al- 
together a curious specimen of working in clay. It represented 
the sea, with numerous rocks and islands, over which she was 
crossing on horseback. Along the ends and back of this building, 
sat thirty-four gilt images, each as large as the human figure, with 
every variety of countenance and dress. In front of the door 
stood the most curiously gnarled tree I ever saw. Its trunk was 
more than a foot in diameter ; after rising up some six or eight 
feet it bent back in a sharp angle to the ground, and then 
stretched up again, while its branches stood out in every direction. 
It was inclosed by a stone railing, and evidently was esteemed a 
great curiosity. There was some story of miraculous appearances 
connected with it ; but I have forgotten what it is. 

Directly behind this building, and separated from it by a large 
square stone paved court, was another some sixty by eighty feet 
in dimensions, and in much better keeping. The principal objects 



JOURNAL AT NINGPO. 333 

of interest were two really magnificent shrines, of a circular 
pyramidal shape, one behind the other. Over the hinder one an 
immense silken canopy was suspended, lights were constantly 
burning before them, and some of the monks seemed to be always 
in the building. And for what, think you, was all this display ? 
Because one of the shrines contained a veritable Shay-le of Buddh, 
taken from his sacred body before his deification ! And what is a 
Shay-le ? On this point I can get but little satisfaction. I am 
told " it is neither gold nor brass, nor stone, nor yet bone nor flesh. 
It is a small round thing, about as big as the half of a pea, and 
looks somewhat like a scab from a sore that is healing up." For 
a "consideration" the priests will allow you to see it, and if you 
are a good man, or likely to be prosperous, its color is red, but if 
the reverse, it will be black. As great honors are paid to this 
valuable relic, as to the blood of St. Januarius, and no doubt the 
priests make much money out of it. My teacher, who has of 
late some new views on some topics,) laughs at it as an imposition 
to wheedle people out of their money. There are several idols in 
this hall, one of which is a jolly fat old fellow with a continual 
laugh on his face. The other buildings of the temple have little 
in them worthy of notice, and the rain was so violent that we 
were obliged to postpone to another time our purposed visit to the 
towers and grounds of the temple. This we regretted, as the two 
towers are each seven stories high, and the country had a veiy 
pretty appearance. 

There are about thirty monks in the establishment. Those we 
saw were generally pale and sickly looking fellows, with counte- 
nances betokening very little mental exertion or worth. The 
routine of their duties is such, as must effectually quench every 
noble aspiration, for it consists in an unceasing round of prostra- 
tions and chants, generally in an unknown tongue, and almost 
always performed without the slightest appearance of devotion or 
zeal. It is marvellous how men can for years practise such in- 
sipid ceremonies, without becoming utterly disgusted with them. 
One of the monks had deprived himself of one of his fingers- by 
a very painful process ; he had wrapped oiled flax around it down 
to the middle of the joint next the hand, and burned it slowly, 
another monk reciting prayers all the time, till the finger was 
consumed. When we saw him the stump was not perfectly 
healed. He had also seared the flesh of one arm in a dozen 
places with a hot iron. He had a special vow of abstinence from 
covetousness, wine, and lewdness, and these were the marks by 
which he made his vow generally known. But notwithstanding 
such evidences, which, by the way, are not uncommon, the char- 
acter of those who bear them is by no means good. The " for- 
bidding to marry, and commanding to abstain from meats," by 
which the Buddhist and Taou sects are distinguished, are followed 
by just the consequences which all history teaches us to expect. 

It was melancholy to meet even here, with traces of the injury 



334 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

done by foreigners to our religion. This temple has been visited 
by several Englishmen, and some of other nations, (we were the 
first American visitors,) and we had not been long there, before 
the monks told us that a former visitor had gone and bowed down 
before tfeeir idols, and then turning to one of his companions, as- 
sured the monks that this was the god of England, and in their 
presence performed acts of devotion to him, such as they performed 
to their idols ! I give the story as it was told, without vouching 
for its truth. If it be true, what shall be said? The excuse that, 
would be given by the persons concerned, would doubtless be, that 
it was only in sport, or possibly, to throw contempt on idolatry ; 
but who will deem this sufficient ? You ask if I believe the story? 
All I can say is, I have known of things nearly as bad, nor should 
I feel surprised if even this were true. One thing is certain, the 
story is generally believed by the Chinese who have been to the 
temple, for the monks are fond of telling it, and is quoted by 
them as a proof that foreigners worship idols. In saying this, I 
testify to that I do know. 

Having seen all we wanted, and being tired of staying, we be- 
gan to think of going, — but how to accomplish it? The rain fell 
in torrents, and the road to our boat was flooded the greater part 
of the way by a stream of water nearly a foot deep. It was a 
regular scene in wading, and might have reminded one of trout- 
fishing in the streams in Pennsylvania. Getting to the boat, we 
changed our wet clothes for others, and going off in the rain, 
reached home shortly before dark, greatly amused and profited by 
our trip, though it had not turned out as we had expected. 

Tuesday, October 14. Having occasion to visit Chusan, started 
in a boat about midnight, and reached Chusan at one o'clock, 
p. m. Asking a boatman how far it was from Chinhai to Chu- 
san, he replied, " It's all by water, and nobody knows." The 
Chinese have no idea of any way of measuring distances by 
water, and though this man had gone between the two places 
probably fifty times, he had not troubled himself even to guess 
how far apart they might be. Such, too, is the ignorance of even 
learned men in China respecting Astronomy, that it is difficult to 
give them any idea of the way of measuring distances by celes- 
tial observations. 

In walking through the streets of Chusan, I was singularly 
affected by hearing a little girl, daughter of one of the English 
soldiers now stationed here, saying, " my mother wants you to 
come back directly." The familiar words and English accent 
spoken by a young person, were so different from the "unknown 
tongue " spoken by every one around, that they easily transported 
my thoughts to a land where all speak my own mother tongue. 
How strangely it would now seem, to be where everybody spoke 
the same language with myself! 

Tuesday, October 21. Started on a trip to Poo-too, one of the 
most celebrated establishments of the Buddhists in China. 



JOURNAL AT NINGPO. 335 

Having a fair wind and tide, the boat proceeded rapidly along 
the southern shore of Chusan, towards its eastern extremity. 
Numerous islands, large and small, stud the whole length of tlie 
island, and the channels between them are generally deep. About 
five miles east of Tinghai, there is a small village called Seaou 
Yeu, or "Salt Pans," from the quantity of salt manufactured 
there. The shores of Chusan for many miles, and of some of 
the opposite islands, are used for manufacturing salt. There is 
not much level ground, but much of what there is being low, it is 
covered at high water, and after the tide is fallen, the mud, satu- 
rated with salt water, is drawn up in heaps, and the salt water 
oozes out into large vessels sunk for that purpose into the earth. 
This water is then boiled in concave iron pans, each holding 
several gallons. The heaps of earth thus gathered are often 
ten or twelve feet high, but the late long rains had so materially 
interfered with the business, that I was unable to obtain any 
satisfactory account of the various processes. Judging from the 
number of piles of earth, there must be several thousand persons 
employed in the business. The salt trade is a monopoly in 
China, and some of the salt merchants are among the richest 
men in the empire. 

Poo-too lies east of the north-eastern extremity of Chusan. Ac- 
cording to a Chinese history of the island, it is about a hundred 
le, or a little over thirty miles, from Tinghai. Having an unfavora- 
ble wind, we had to beat across the channel, and did not reach it till 
after three o'clock, p. m. Its aspect from the sea is but little more 
inviting than that of the other islands around, and what it has in 
appearance that is pleasant is owing to art ; for excepting the 
trees that show themselves in the valleys and among the rocks, 
which have been planted by man, it is even wilder and rockier 
than its companions. A deep cleft or valley near the middle of 
the island reveals the yellow tiled roof of one of the principal 
temples, from a great distance off, but the principal landing-place 
is at the south-eastern extremity. 

No sooner does one step on shore than he has evidence on every 
side that the place is " wholly given to idolatry." A small wor- 
shipping place stood close by the landing ; shrines and inscriptions 
were cut in the rocks by the roadside, and a large red gateway 
covered with tiles announced the approach to a temple. Pursuing 
the walk a hundred yards further over a broad stone-paved path- 
wslj overhung by trees, you enter the Pih-hwa-yen^ or " white 
flowery monastery." Here I sought for lodgings, but the monks 
seemed not to desire company, and complained of having met 
such uncivil treatment from foreigners who had recently been 
there, that they did not wish to see any more. However, they 
finally showed me a suite of three or four rooms, or rather closets, 
up stairs, of which I took possession, and leaving my servant to 
keep watch and get dinner ready, I sallied out to see what might 
be seen. 



336 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

The Pih-hwa-yen is an old building built on a foundation dug 
out of the hill-side, and almost concealed from sight by large over- 
hanging trees and shrubbery. It is now in bad repair, and has 
an old and faded appearance. The number of monks is said to 
be about forty, but I saw not more than ten or twelve. The idols 
and ornaments of the temple are all old and shabby, and it has 
little to interest a visitor. In one of the main courts under the 
verandah were pasted up some twelve or fifteen large red cards, 
presented by ships' companies with other offerings in gratitude to 
the gods who had brought them on so far. Two or three of the 
vessels were from Hwuy-Chow, in Canton, most of them from 
Chang-Chow, Tseuen-chow, and Hing-hiva, in Fuhkeen, and 
only one from a seaport in Cheh-keang. In the evening a relig- 
ious ceremony of some kind was performed by the old abbot, assisted 
by some six of the monks, with several of the young candidates 
for the Buddhist priesthood, some sailors and myself for spec- 
tators. The abbot put on a scarlet robe and a crown, and taking 
an incense stick in his hand, performed numerous ceremonies, ac- 
companied with a repetition of prayers and chanting, in the chorus 
of which the other monks joined. But there was not the slightest 
appearance of devotion, except perhaps in the manner of the old 
abbot. The others, in the intervals of the chanting, drank tea, 
gazed about, and talked with one another, while the young can- 
didates for the priesthood amused themselves with annoying one 
of the officiating monks, and putting balls in his chair, to trouble 
him when he sat down. This called forth an angry reproof from 
him, and produced a hearty laugh on their part. Seeing things 
go on thus, I gave one of the spectators a tract, whereon several 
others asked for some ; and finally one of the monks left his de- 
votions and came for one. I then said something on the folly of 
worshipping such idols, and a hearty laugh followed the exposure 
of the helplessness of their gods. With some further remarks on 
the way to worship the true God, and his son Jesus Christ, I left 
them, glad to get away from the sin and folly of their unmeaning 
ceremonies. They kept them up with the beating of gongs and 
drums during the greater part of the night. 

From the Pih-hwa-yen, a paved stone walk, some five feet broad, 
extends over a hill and down to the central valley of the island, 
where the principal establishment, called the Seen-sz\ is built. On 
several of the large rocks along this road, inscriptions are cut in 
large letters, and shrines are built against, or carved out of the 
rocks. At one place is a little shrine with some characters in a 
language I did not know, probably the Sanscrit, and beneath Nan 
woo oh me to fah, words that are constantly and "vainly" re- 
peated in the religious ceremonies of the Buddhists. Several paths 
blanched off from the main road, leading to smaller yen, or mon- 
asteries, in the recesses of the hills. 

Arrived at the bottom of the valley, you pass through a large 
gateway, composed of four massive stone pillars, each a single block 



JOURNAL AT POO'IOO. 337' 

of granite about twenty feet high. Beyond this a few steps and 
you pass, at right angles, on the left another gateway leading into 
the main buildings. Before coming to this gateway is an inscrip- 
tion carved in stone to this effect : " Every officer, whether civil 
or military, and all the common people, on arriving at this place, 
must dismount from their horses." The reason of this soon ap- 
peared, for just within the second gateway, and inclosed within 
an octagonal tower, covered with yellow tiles, was an immense 
marble tablet, with a long inscription, presented by the Emperor 
Kanghi. It is the custom in China for all to dismount and walk 
when passing before anything that comes from the Emperor, 
though there was but little occasion for the order in this instance, 
seeing there is not a horse or ass upon the island. 

Beyond this is a pond of water, with many of the broad-leaved 
Lotus plants growing at each end, and a beautifully arched stone 
oridge across it. Beyond this again, reaching clear to the base of 
the hill, were several large yellow-tiled temples, with open courts 
in front, and two-storied dormitories at either side of the courts 
for the monks. In the temples were any number of huge hideous 
idols, all once richly gilt, but now brown with age, and black and 
dirty with the smoke of incense. Just within the door of the main 
building was a shrine for drawing lots, and telling fortunes, with 
the inscription above, " Yew keiv peih yingP " He that seeketh 
will certainly find an answer." Some two dozen monks were 
kneeling and chanting in the main building, among whom were 
several older than any I have ever seen. Outside one or two 
monks were superintending the winnowing of some paddy; others 
were watching men splitting up the roots of an old tree for fire- 
wood, and others were doing nothing. So lazy and good-for-noth 
ing a set as the Buddhist and Taou priests, I have never seen ; 
and I could not but admire the simple truth with which one of 
the boatmen described their occupations, when I asked him what 
they did, " Why sir, they eat rice, and read prayers." In one of 
the side buildings, which is three stories high, there is a bell five 
feet in diameter, and more than seven feet in height. It is beaten 
with a wooden hammer, (the Chinese bells rarely have clappers,) 
and its sound when gently struck, amidst the chantings and chorus 
of the monks below, was far from being unpleasant. 

Everything about these buildings showed signs of age, neglect, 
and decay. The yellow tiles, the gift of imperial favor, were 
falling from the roofs, grass was growing in the stone-paved court- 
yards, weeds encumbered the sacred Lotus pond, windows and 
doors were falling to pieces, and the curtains and ornaments of 
the idols were even browned with smoke and dust. Here, too, 
there was but little evidence of devotion in their worship, and one 
of the monks stopped in the midst of his chanting to ask me 
when I arrived. I left the place with an aching heart ; for the 
sight of these old men bending over the grave, and yet chanting 
the praises of these wooden gods, was a painful subject for thought.. 
22 



338 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

From the Seen-sz', a stone pathway leads over another eleva- 
tion, and through a valley into a deep recess among the hills, 
where the next large establishment, the How-sz\ is situated. 
This is smaller than the Seen-sz', and exhibits even more traces 
of neglect and decay. The roof of one of the buildings had partly 
fallen in, and the broken tiles and mortar were lying about the 
altar. Being somewhat wearied, I sat down in one of the court- 
yards, and soon had five or six of the monks about me, with two 
or three workmen and servants. One of the former, a man of 
some fifty-four years of age, with a face full of curiosity, came up, 
and with a very polite salutation said, 

"I presume you are a Frenchman, sir?" 

" No." 

" No ! Oh, then you are an English officer ?" 

" No, I am an American." 

" Oh ! an American ! Pray how far is your honorable country 
from England ?" 

" It is about ten thousand le." 

" Hi yah ! Ten thousand le ! What a vast distance !" 

" Yes," said I, " it is a good distance ; and my country is distant 
from the ' Central Flowery Land' more than sixty thousand le." 

" Prodigious ! More than sixty thousand le ! I presume your 
Excellency has come to the Central Land to trade. I hope you 
find the markets good." 

" No, I have not come here to trade. I came here to propagate 
religion." 

"To what?" said he, looking puzzled. 

" To propagate religion." 

" Oh, I understand. To propagate religion. I congratulate 
you, sir ! May I ask what is your religion ?" 

" I belong to the ' religion of Jesus.' We worship only one true 
God, and believe on his son Jesus Christ. We do not worship 
idols. What are these idols which you worship here? They 
have eyes, but they cannot see ; they have ears, but they cannot 
hear ; they have mouths, but they cannot speak ; they have hands 
and feet, but can neither move their hands nor walk. What is the 
use of worshipping such things ?" During this short talk, my ques- 
tioner was looking more and more confused, and as the last ques- 
tion was put, a hearty laugh was raised by all around, in which 
he also joined, adding, " True, true, what you say is perfectly cor- 
rect." I went on somewhat farther to speak of the sinfulness of 
man, our desert of punishment, the mercy of God, the mission of 
Christ to the world, together with the consequent obligation im- 
posed on us, to believe on him and secure our salvation : all of 
which was listened to very respectfully, with numerous (thought- 
less, it is to be feared, and hollow) expressions of assent. I 
then took out some tracts, and gave them each one, which were 
politely received, and one of the younger monks looking at the 
tract " Two Friends," remarked, " There were some foreigners 



JOURNAL AT CHUSAN. 339 

here several years ago. before the English came to Ningpo, who 
left this tract here/' He doubtless referred to the visit of Messrs. 
Medhurst and Stevens, in 1S36. Tea was now brought, and after 
some further desultory conversation. I took my departure, exhibit- 
ing as much politeness as possible, which was returned with inter- 
est by them. Before going a hundred yards, however, one of them 
came running after me, calling out with a loud voice, " Your Ex- 
cellency ! please stop a little." I waited for him, and when he 
came up, all out of breath with his haste, he made a low bow and 
said, " The great god in the temple where you have just been, 
would be very much obliged by the donation of one small Canton 
rupee, so small," he added, making a circle about as big as a rupee. 
I told him I was very sorry not to oblige him, but the thing was 
utterly impossible ; that I did not worship nor respect idols, nor 
could I make any presents to them. With this assurance he pro- 
fessed to be satisfied, and bowing, walked slowly back. But the 
incident was painful, as showing their indifference to the truth. I 
had the best evidence of their fully understanding and assenting 
to what was said against idolatry, and yet in five minutes after 
they could ask me to make an offering to their gods ! 

The next morning I went around to several of the smaller mon- 
asteries, but saw little in them of interest. In one, the monks were 
so busy divining for some sailors, that they had not time to speak 
to strangers ; in another, they were all gone to some other part of 
the island, and in a third I found no person except one old monk, 
suffering from disease. He w r as sitting in a sheltered verandah, 
with a little boy waiting on him, and received me quite politely, 
ordering tea to be brought. He said he was seventy-one years 
old ; and was as intelligent a man as I met on the island. In an- 
swer to my inquiries, he said that the beginning of the monastic 
establishments on the island dated as far back as the Leang dy- 
nasty, some eight hundred years ago ; but that the Seen-sz' and 
the How-sz' were built in the Sung dynasty. The total number 
of monks on the island, he affirmed, did not exceed seven or eight 
hundred. I had been told the evening before, at the How-sz' that 
there were fifteen hundred, but the old man's statement is proba- 
bly correct. There are four large, and one hundred and two small 
establishments on the island. Allowing one hundred monks for the 
largest, and thirty for the other three, each, we have about two 
hundred. All accounts agreed that in the smaller establishments 
there were not over five or six in the average, being about seven 
or eight hundred in all. This differs widely from the accouuts of 
former visitors, who make the number amount to " six thousand ;" 
but I am satisfied that those accounts are much larger than is cor- 
rect. There is not room in all the buildings on the island to ac- 
commodate so many. 

As the monk with whom I was now talking was old and sick, 
and might soon die, I felt it to be a duty to point out to him, how- 
ever imperfectly, the way of eternal life beyond the grave ; but 



340 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

though he understood the most of what was said, and assented to it 
as very good and proper; it seemed to make little impression upon 
him. He said that after death he expected still to abide among 
the hills of this island, which had now been his home for more 
than fift}' years. When asked how he expected to secure happi- 
ness beyond the grave, he replied, "By worshipping Buddh, and 
making many prayers." I set before him as well as I could the 
way of life through Christ, — to which he listened attentively, and 
remarked, "There were some foreigners here several years ago, 
who taught the same doctrine that you do ;" referring doubtless to 
the visit of Messrs. Medhurst and Stevens. On coming away I 
gave him several tracts, which he received gratefully. Oh that 
the truth which he has thus heard more than once, may be blessed 
to him, even in this the eleventh hour ! After strolling about a 
little longer, I left the island at eleven o'clock, a. m., and reached 
Tinghai near sunset. 

Thursday, October 23. Started with Mr. Loomis for a walk 
across the island. Went through the long and narrow valley, 
back of Tinghai, and up the steep hill behind it. We finally 
came out into a noble plain, two miles, or two and a half miles 
broad, and four or five miles long, all covered with rice, while the 
neighboring hill-sides, for a great distance up, were cultivated with 
buckwheat, sweet-potatoes, and other vegetables. This valley 
appears to be even larger than that in which Tinghai is situated, 
and has some ten or fifteen villages at the foot of the hills around 
it. Probably five thousand persons derive their subsistence from 
it. A large part of the men of the valley were at a theatre in one 
of the temples, and we took the opportunity to give away some 
tracts, but found few who could read. 

After going down to the sea-shore we went back, and arrived at 
home about five o'clock, p. m., having walked twenty-one miles. 
We were foot-sore, and wearied enough. 

October 27. Returned to Ningpo ; but not reaching the place 
till near midnight, found the city gates shut, and the watchmen 
going their rounds. Obliged to remain in the boat all night. 

November 5. Walked some three miles or more down the bank 
of the Ningpo river, which on the north-east side of the city makes 
a remarkable bend, almost inclosing the ground on which the 
English consulate stands. A canal half a mile long would save 
six or seven miles sailing. There are vast numbers of graves on 
this part of the Ningpo plain, though perhaps not more than may 
be found in any other direction. They occupy many acres of 
fertile soil, and cause one to doubt the truth of the remark so often 
made, that "the Chinese seldom bury their dead except on the 
sides of barren hills." This remark was generally found to be 
true in the province of Canton, and in some parts of Fuhkeen, but 
it is far from being correct in those of Keangsoo and Chehkeang. 
About Shanghai the number of tumuli, or mounds, inclosing cof- 



JOURNAL AT CHUSAN. 341 

fins, is so great, that in some places they remind one of haycocks 
in a newly-mown meadow, while about Ningpo there are thou- 
sands of acres thus occupied. In the hills about Ningpo, none 
of which are within ten miles of the city, there are comparatively 
few tombs. 

Nov. 22. The early part of this month was the season for the 
harvest of the second crop of rice, and the farmers have now 
nearly finished threshing it. The cotton is also gathered in, and 
the wheat is in many places coming up, having been planted 
early in the month. They do not sow it broadcast, but having 
first prepared the ground in long beds, they drill holes at regular 
intervals, with a heavy, sharp-pointed stone, and drop five or six 
grains in each hole. 

Nov. 26. Saw a wedding procession, which must have been 
several hundred yards long, and numbered several hundreds of 
people. A crowd of men and boys bearing banners and inscrip- 
tions went in front, some trumpets and cymbals followed, then 
seven or eight men on horseback, then a couple of officers, one 
bearing a white, and the other a gilt button in their caps ; then 
the bride's chair, a really beautiful article, elegantly painted, carv- 
ed and gilded, borne by eight men; but the bride was quite too 
well inclosed to be seen ; then several men bearing ornamental 
bedding-clothes and pillows, which form a part of the marriage 
presents, and are always ostentatiously displayed ; while no less 
than twenty-one sedan chairs brought up the rear. The lady was 
said to be the daughter of an officer of rank. 

Dec. 1. I congratulated my teacher on the birth of his daughter. 
" No, no, we do not congratulate here on the birth of a daughter." 
" No ! why not V " Oh, they are a great expense, and very little 
profit to us." This led to some conversation on the treatment of 
females, and finally to the question, whether there was such a 
thing as female infanticide in this part of the country, he replied 
quickly, " No, not here, but there is in Canton, and in some parts 
of Fuhkeen." " Is there none at all here ?" " No, not in Ningpo, 
but in the city of Funghwa, (a city about twenty miles off, and 
under the jurisdiction of the Che-foo of Ningpo,) there is. It is 
called neih-sz\ or death by drowning, for when the child is bom, 
if it be a girl, the parents or assistants often heap water on it, in 
pretence of washing it, but in such a way that it dies !" He made 
this statement very unwillingly, and with many exclamations of 
horror, and finally added, " But of late years, since the Funghwa 
people have begun to understand right reason and propriety, there 
is none of it." Notwithstanding this assertion, there is sufficient 
reason to suppose that this horrid custom prevails, not only in 
Funghwa, but in other places in this province ; but to nothing 
like the extent in which it is common in some parts of Fuhkeen. 

Dec. 11. A long and serious discussion with my teacher to-day 
on some points in the systems of Confucius and Christ, particu- 
larly in reference to human nature. Confucius and Mencius 



342 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

teach that every man is born with a heart good and pure, and 
that it is only by the influence of evil example, and the giving 
way to one's own wishes, that the heart becomes bad. They do 
not suppose that it ever becomes totally depraved, but insist that 
every man is able to rectify his own evil nature, by simply return- 
ing to the principles of righteousness implanted in him. It is a 
favorite expression of my teacher, that " the heart which heaven 
gives us is pure ;" and his comparison to illustrate it was, " a mir- 
ror all clear and bright, reflecting perfectly the images of objects 
presented to it. By degrees, through exposure to the air, neglect, 
carelessness, or ill-usage, it becomes soiled, dirty and useless," and 
his strong argument to uphold his position was, " If you tell men 
that their nature is bad, they will at once turn round on you and 
say, ' Since our nature is bad, then we can do nothing to correct 
it, and may as well go on in sin.' " It was to avoid this reply 
that Mencius insisted so much on the doctrine of the natural 
goodness of man's heart. Another argument he used was, " It 
cannot be supposed that heaven would give a man a bad heart." 
The natural and correct answer, " Man was created upright, but 
fell by his own sin, and drew his posterity after him," he seemed 
to think unsatisfactory. 

Discoursing still farther on the nature of good and evil, he gave 
it as his opinion, that if a man obeyed his parents and his prince, 
avoided theft, robbery, and licentiousness, and was kind to his 
neighbors, such a man should be called a good man. When 
asked were all men of this character, he replied, " No, but there 
are some such." When asked how many men were outwardly 
moral, whose morality was caused more by the fears of the law, 
and the opinion of men, than by any regard for virtue, as such, he 
replied, " Such men are not very numerous. I suppose in ten 
thousand, nine thousand and nine hundred have no regard for 
virtue as such." " Could such men be considered as good men ?." 
" No, they could hardly be called good men, yet neither were 
they worthy to be called bad." " What do you think of their 
heart, their motives? Can these be called good?" "Mr. Low- 
rie," said he, half angrily, " why do you talk about the heart so 
much ? Why do not you content yourself with saying that men 
should do good, and live virtuously, without troubling yourself 
about the heart, which nobody can see ?" " Because the religion 
of Christ, unlike that of Confucius and Mencius, teaches as one 
of its first truths, that the heart is bad and must be changed, the 
nature defiled and must be renovated, before a man can enter 
heaven." " Oh ! that's very different from the doctrine we believe, 
and I do not see the use of talking so much about the heart. Be- 
sides," he added, " / understand the doctrine of Jesus thoroughly, 
a great deal better than you do that of Confucius. I have read 
two or three volumes of your books, and think it all very good. 
Christ taught just the same that Confucius does, that man should 
do what is right, — there may be some little points of difference, 



LETTERS. 345 

DUt in all the essentials the doctrine of the two is the same." The 
singular contradictions of these sentences show the character of the 
Chinese mind, unwilling to admit the truth of a doctrine so un- 
palatable to the human heart, and yet too polite to persist in open 
contradiction of a friend. 

My teacher is one of the " wise of this world." A more learned 
man than is common, though a school-boy might justly laugh at 
his knowledge of multitudes of things, he has a high opinion of 
himself and his own intellect, and it is easy to see that he enter- 
tains much contempt for the humbling doctrines of the cross. 
What can man do without the aid of the Almighty? Already he 
knows not quite so much as he thinks he does, but quite enough 
of the way of salvation to be saved, but it is foolishness to him. 
Neither can he know it aright. Oh for the life-giving Spirit to 
breathe on these dry bones, and make them live ! 

A slight spitting of snow to-day, the first I have seen for nearly 
four years. 

Dec. 14. A fall of snow last night, which whitened the ground, 
and made things look as natural as in former days. 



Ningpo, November 1st, 1845. 
To the Society of Inquiry, Princeton Theological 
Seminary. 

Dear Brethren — In a letter from the Corresponding Secretary 
of your Committee on Foreign Missions, dated October 16th, 1844, 
which has been lying by me since April 19th, 1845, there are 
three definite questions and a carte blanche, the answers and 
"filling up" of all of which would occupy more time and paper 
than I have to spare ; and, probably, more patience than you have 
to give. Perhaps I shall not err in answering the questions first, 
and then adding what may come uppermost, or find room. 

In regard to Morrison's translation of the Bible into Chinese, a 
singular misconception has long prevailed among the supporters 
of missions, both in England and America. It is not three years 
since one of the warmest, and generally speaking, one of the best 
informed friends of missions in England, asserted, in opposition to 
the united and unanimous voice of the Protestant Missionaries in 
China, that " Morrison's translation of the Scriptures was nearly 
perfect, and another was unnecessary." This was, to say the least, 
rather a venturesome remark from one who did not know a word 
of Chinese ! . . . 

I can answer your question, "Is the translation useful or intel- 
ligible ?" by saying it is useful, but is not adapted for general cir- 
culation. When we are explaining the Scripture history or 
doctrine in private conversation, it is of use, because it is sufficient- 
ly intelligible, with such cautions and explanations as we can 
give orally, to give those with whom we speak a fuller idea of the 
truth. It is of use to give to our converts, for you know the 



344 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

converted man finds good when the impenitent turns away in dis- 
gust ; and the converts will naturally come to us for explanation. 
And it is also of use to those who may prepare a new translation. 
But it is not, as I think, adapted for general circulation, nor would 
I willingly give a copy to a heathen, except under favorable cir- 
cumstances. These same remarks apply in great measure to Dr. 
Marshman's translation, which was finished about the same time 
with Morrison's, and has never had an extensive circulation. 

You also ask, " What progress has been made towards remedy- 
ing its defects ?" A good deal as regards the New Testament ; 
but as it regards the Old, almost none. We have two other trans- 
lations of the New Testament ; one by Gutzlaff, which is not 
much used ; and another by Medhurst, assisted by John R. Morri- 
son, Bridgman, and others. The latter is the one in common use ; 
and it is in general intelligible and good, though paraphrastic 
sometimes, and far from being perfect. A number of the mission- 
aries, both English and American, are now engaged in a revision 
of it ; but it may be several years before it is completed. When 
the Old Testament will be revised and published, I have no idea. 
I hope to live to see the time, and, perhaps, to take some part in 
it, but it will not be soon. There is a great work yet to be done 
in this respect, and perhaps some of you may be called to assist in 
it. The translation of the Scriptures into Chinese is a great, 
difficult, and most important work, and the preparation of Com- 
ments and Notes upon them will require the labors of many men 
for many years. You can have but little idea of the strange 
notions they gather from expressions that are as common to us as 
the air we breathe. . . . 

T have gone over the Gospel of Luke very carefully with my 
teacher, who passes for a learned man in Ningpo, and his mistakes 
and misconceptions have been both amusing and painful. This 
arises in part from the imperfection of the translation ; in part 
from an utter and characteristic ignorance of the geography and 
history of every other nation but China ; in part from the use of 
figures and comparisons unknown in China. Some people say 
" The Bible is an Oriental book, and the Chinese are an Oriental 
people, therefore, they can easily understand it. But unfortunate- 
ly the Chinese are as much beyond " the East" on one side as 
America is on the other ; and therefore the remark is very un- 
founded, in part from inattention and want of interest in the sub- 
ject, and in part from the " thick darkness" which idolatry and 
superstition have enshrouded even the mental, and much more 
the moral perceptions. Oh brethren ! if you were here but a few 
days, you would understand something of the necessity for the 
Spirit's influences to open the understanding, and pour light into 
the heart ; and of the feelings of the prophet, when commanded 
to prophesy to the dry bones. Pray for us. So deep is the " veil 
of the covering cast over" the minds of the heathen, that were it. 
not for what God can do, the Missionary enterprise would be as 



LETTERS. 345 

fantastic a scheme of folly as the brain of man ever devised. If K 
were not for the hope, the belief of what God will do, I would not 
be a missionary for another day. It requires but a few years' ex- 
perience in the missionary field to learn that it is not talents nor 
learning, important as these are, but piety and prayer, that are 
chiefly requisite in a missionary. " Not by might nor by power, 
but by my spirit, saith the Lord." Oh that my own heart and 
practice were more deeply influenced by this conviction, and that 
the churches at home felt it more. 

You ask for "my impressions regarding the climate of China." 
Having not yet had a full experience of the climate so far north 
as my present residence. I cannot answer you so fully as may be 
desirable ; but what I know is briefly as follows : In the Canton 
province, and the climate at Amoy is not materially different, 
warm weather prevails for nine months in the year ; of which 
four or five are oppressive, while the months of December, Jan- 
uary, and February, are pleasant and cool. The natives and the 
Portuguese at Macao do not use fires in their houses, but the 
English and Americans find them very agreeable. During three 
years, the lowest I ever saw the thermometer was 45°, while it 
generally in the cool weather ranged between 50° and 60° of Fahren- 
heit. I never used a cloak but once or twice, except in my room, 
where, as I sat without a fire, it was needful. In the long warm 
seasons my health suffered, and I became languid and thinner 
than usual, in August and September. Most persons suffer in the 
same way, but the winter or rather the cool weather, for ice and 
snow are almost never seen, is invigorating, and many enjoy bet- 
ter health than in their own land. I consider the climate at 
Macao and Canton as decidedly healthy ; and expecting the in- 
disposition above referred to, which, however, never confined me a 
whole day to the couch, I never was better at home. The circum- 
stances which have made Amoy and Hong Kong unhealthy, I do 
not think will have a permanent influence ; nor should I have the 
slightest hesitation or fear in going to either of these places. It 
would seem, however, from facts already observed, that northern 
men bear the climate better than southern, though reasoning a 
priori many would think differently. 

In Shanghai and Ningpo, the climate is different. We have 
pleasant, cool, and cold weather, for nine months, and warm 
weather for three, July and August, and parts of June and Sep- 
tember. Of the warm weather six weeks are uncomfortably hot, 
if anything, worse than at Macao. I have not yet had the pleas- 
ure of experiencing the cold weather here in its perfection, though 
I. retain a vivid recollection of the coldness of my fingers and ears 
on approaching Shanghai in March, when the cold weather was 
nearly over, and of the strange sensations excited, by seeing my 
breath come out in thick steam, and sleeping under a load of bed- 
clothes, things to which I had been a stranger for more than three 
years. The thermometer falls below 25° ; ice and snow are seen 



346 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

every winter ; and fur clothes, which are cheap and good, are 
worn to an extent that would surprise you. Yet even here, the 
inhabitants do not use fires, but content themselves with abund- 
ance of cotton garments, (ten and fifteen jackets worn at once are 
not uncommon,) wadded clothes, and furs, with small foot-stoves, 
and finger-stoves. But I do not see how we can do without fires. 
The climate is subject to frequent and considerable changes. I 
hare seen the thermometer rise from 34° to 84° in a few days in 
March, and fall back to 40° in forty hours ; and after experiencing 
warm weather in June, I have put on woollen stockings in July. 
A fall of twenty degrees in a few hours is not uncommon, and is 
sensibly felt. It is now quite cool, the thermometer being below 
sixt)r, except in the middle of the day ; and the merchants' shops 
present a busy and rich scene, from the quantity of fine furs dis- 
played in them. I am looking forward with some interest to the 
return of snow and ice, things which I have not seen for nearly 
four years. My impressions of the climate of Ningpo are very 
favorable, though the last summer being cooler than usual, did 
not afford a very good opportunity of knowing precisely what it is. 

.... There are also two or three disagreeably damp seasons in 
the summer, of two or three weeks' continuance, when rain pours 
down in torrents ; and if it does not rain, you feel as if the very 
air was damp and cloudy ; and the perspiration will gather on the 
stones in the wall, even when the sun is shining outside. Such 
weather is hard on books, clothes, and animal spirits ; but it is 
of short continuance. 

We get plenty to eat here, but not a very great variety, as the 
inhabitants have not yet learned to provide for foreigners, as they 
have at Macao and Canton. Goat's flesh, pork, hams, chickens, 
ducks, and geese, are our principal meats ; though in winter, wild- 
ducks, pheasants, and hares, are cheaper than anything else. 
Fish of several kinds we have all the year round ; wheat, rice, 
and a little buck-wheat, form the staff of life ; sweet potatoes, 
turnips, egg-plants, bean sprouts, bamboo sprouts, taro, beans, peas, 
Kaou-bah, onions, and greens, are our chief vegetables ; and for 
fruits we have peaches, pears, plums, lichees, persimmons, pome- 
granates, and oranges, with walnuts, chestnuts, and pea-nuts. 
You will say, " This is a goodly list." True, and we are thank- 
ful to enjoy so many of God's good gifts here ; nor do we com- 
plain when we remember that few of them are so good as those 
you eat in the United States ; while beef, such at least as may be 
called good, Irish potatoes, and apples, are seldom seen. I have 
tasted none of either in many months, nor apples, which are 
worth all the oranges of China, for years ; nor do we get all these 
things at once. I find in my market-book, (for we bachelors have 
to attend to such things ourselves oftentimes,) that for weeks to- 
gether, Dr. McCartee and I sat down together to a table, of which 
the chief dishes were, chickens, or fish, bamboo sprouts, turnips, 
and bean sprouts, with bread, rice, and eggs. It is hard to say 



LETTERS. 24? 

what we should do without eggs ! When the egg-plants came 
we were delighted, and when the sweet potatoes were fit to eat, 
we were satisfied ! The married missionaries do not fare any 
better than we bachelors, though they doubtless have some things 
nicer ! 

For the particularity of the above statements, I do not think il 
necessary to make any apology, though the pronoun " I," occurs 
with a frequency that is somewhat startling ; perhaps it may be 
some excuse, that they are written in answer to the question, 
-What are my impressions?" 

Your last question, " The magnitude of the field and the pros- 
pects of the mission ?" is one on which a volume might be written, 
but the space already consumed warns me to be brief, the more so 
as I may have an occasion hereafter to refer to it. I can only say 
this : Few have any idea of the extent of the ground that is 
opened and opening to our labors, and none know where the 
things will end, whose beginnings we have lived to witness. The 
opening of China to foreign intercourse, is an event which finds 
few parallels in the history of the world. This country is a world 
in itself; and the thought has often occurred to me, while travers- 
ing its beautiful plains and crowded streets, " What a world has 
been revolving here of which Christendom knows nothing !" I 
have been led to make excursions of twenty or thirty miles into 
the interior, from each of the cities of Amoy, Shanghai, and 
Ningpo, and everywhere the country is like a vast beehive, swarm- 
ing with inhabitants. It is the same about Canton, where I have 
also been, and doubtless the same about Foo-chow. I have not 
known what it is to be out of sight of a human habitation since 
I have been in China, and where there is one there is commonly 
ten. T have scarcely ever seen a little valley, or a hollow among 
the hills, where industry could cultivate a bed of rice, or a crop of 
greens, that was not occupied. It is scarcely an exaggeration to 
say, that temples and monasteries are as common here as farm- 
houses in Pennsylvania, and I have seen the streets of Ningpo 
crowded with many ten thousands of people, to see an idolatrous 
procession in honor of "all the gods." Now all this vast and 
teeming population of idolaters must have the gospel, or perish. 
Books will not do the work. It is the living teacher who must 
speak unto them the words of life. Such is the field we cultivate. 
As to our prospects, you have them in the concluding verses of 
Psalm cxxvi. : 

They that sow in tears, 

With shoutings shall gather the harvest. 

Going he shall go, even with weeping, burdened with the seed to be sown : 

Coming he shall come, and with shouting, burdened with his sheaves. 

It is nearly midnight, and I must draw to a close without refer- 
ring to other topics, which, if this letter were not already full 
enough, might be of interest. Full notices of the mission you 



348 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

will probably see in the Chronicle before long, and I have omitted 
them here. 

Brethren, whatever your own course may be, whether to come 
to the missionary field, or to cultivate the vineyard of the Lord at 
home, there is one thing we pray you to bear in mind, "It is God 
who giveth the increase," and if success do not attend one's labor, 
the reason will probably be found in the fact that he is not inquired 
of by his people respecting this thing, to do it for them. Pray 
for us. 

I am yours in the bonds of the Gospel, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ningpo, December 5th, 1845. 
My Dear Father — 

.... I have my commentary on Luke, which with the text will 
make a handsome volume of a hundred pages, ready for the press, 
and trust it w r ill be of use. The style is pure and good Chinese, 
for it is written by my teacher, and I know the sentiments to be 
correct, though sometimes not as full or clear as I could have 
wished. My teacher said to me, I suppose, twenty times while 
preparing it, "How can you expect us to understand this book? i" 
do not understand it, who have been reading books all my life, and 
how can less learned persons comprehend it?" The doctrines, 
historical allusions, geography, customs, e. g., washing the feet, 
comparisons, everything is strange ; and when joined to an imper- 
fect translation, it is not to be thought that a careless heathen can 
understand such a book. At the risk of being thought a heretic, 
I must say I think the oft-repeated phrase, " The Bible without 
note or comment," is in danger of being pushed so far, as to fall 
over and do harm. However true it is and correct under limita- 
tions, it is not correct in itself. It is not true in fact, that our peo- 
ple at home read it " without note or comment;" for there is no 
one who does not hear many a note and comment from parent, 
teacher, friend or minister, and there are few w T ho do not form 
their opinions of most of it from such " notes and comments." 
If these and innumerable commentaries besides, are needed in a 
land of so much light as America, what must be the case in 
China ? " Without note and comment" is true, so far as authori- 
tative and infallible exposition is intended ; and also, if it be 
meant that the simple text, when understood, is to be carefully 
studied and pondered in the Christian hours of devotion ; but 1 
humbly conceive there is danger if it be extended much beyond 
these limits. However, I ought to reflect that you have, thought 
on the subject long enough, not to need such a " lesson" from me. 

... I was deeply grieved to hear of the accident you met, but 
thankful it was no worse. How many strange accidents we 
miss, within a hair's-breadth of them, though unawares. We 
shall doubtless often wonder when we get to heaven, and look 



LETTERS. 349 

back on our past life, that, amidst so many dangers it was pro- 
longed so long. 

.... After a good deal of thought, I am about settling down to 
the opinion, that I ought to aim at a pretty full knowledge of 
books and writing in Chinese. In a mission so large as ours, and 
where we have a press, there must be some one tolerably at home 
on some points. Now, I have been so circumstanced, as to be 
obliged to turn my thoughts much that way, somewhat to the 
disadvantage of my speaking fluently, and I am so still. I have 
laid such a foundation of acquaintance with the written lan- 
guage, as enables me to go on with some ease, and such as the 
other brethren can scarcely be expected to do in some time. They 
are accordingly outstripping me in the colloquial, though I have 
the advantage in the books, and can easily keep it up. My edu- 
cation and previous habits are also such as fit me more for this 
than for mingling among men, unless actually obliged to do so. 
I propose, therefore, not to neglect the colloquial, but to lay out a 
good portion of my strength on reading and writing Chinese. 
Keeping in view, chiefly, the translation of the Scriptures, and 
works explanatory of them, and perhaps the preparation of ele- 
mentary books, and it may be a dictionary, a thing we are greatly 
in want of. What do you think of this plan? You will not 
think I mean to neglect the great' work of preaching, for I trust 
to be able in the course of next year to undertake regular ser- 
vices. I might do it now, if I had no accounts to keep, letters to 
write, and advice and assistance to give to others, especially in 
the matter of the printing office. That you may see how much 
I have been hindered one way and another since coming to China, I 
may say that though it is nearly four years since I left you, yet I 
have had a teacher, and by consequence have been studying the 
language effectively, only twenty-three months, and of those, 
three are hardly worth counting from the interruptions I met. I 
sometimes felt quite discouraged, and now feel ashamed to think 
I have been here so long, and done so little .... 

With many affectionate remembrances and prayers, 
I am, as ever, your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ning-po, December 31st, 1845. 
My Dear Father — 

.... I have to-day finished a first revision of a little Tract on 
the Sabbath. It will be only four or five pages, and consists of 
Gen. i., and some remarks on the Sabbath, with the Fourth and 
Second Commandments ; all of which I first put into such Chinese 
as I was able, and then submitted to my teacher for a thorough 
revision. He had previously read Morrison's Gen. i. ; and after 
leading mine, made without any comparison with Morrison's, I 
which he would rather use for revision. " Oh," said he, " it 



350 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

don't make much difference, they are both very obscure !" He 
found no difficulty, however, in understanding the subsequent 
remarks, when I was not tied down to a form of words, and 
even deigned to tell me. that two or three sentences were correct ! 
I thought it quite a compliment, for he is very proud of the 
excellencies of Chinese literature. However, in writing it over, 
he left very little of the poor thing in the dress I had given it at 
first. I almost despair at times of ever getting through the laby- 
rinth of Chinese literature. How glad I am that it was not my 
own choice that brought me here. The remembrance of the way 
by which T have been led, often holds me up, when I should fail, 
if I thought I had chosen the path for myself. 

It is tolerably cool just now ; we have had frost in nearly every 
night for three weeks past, and I find overcoat, cloak, foot-stove, 
and finger-stove only enough to keep me going. 

It is hard work writing sometimes, for I can scarcely keep my 
fingers warm ; but these are very minor affairs, so I will not 
trouble you any more. 

It is drawing near to eleven o'clock, p. m., and as I do not feel 
like seeing the old year out, nor soliloquizing about it, I will close. 
But I cannot help asking, Where are you all now, and how 
engaged ? 

I am as ever, yo\ir affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

1846. 

MISSIONARY LABORS AT NINGPO — HEATHEN CUSTOMS — WORSHIP — SUPERSTITIOUS 
FEARS — PREACHING LN CHINESE. 

During this year the missions in China were further strength- 
ened by the arrival at Canton of the Rev. John B. French, and 
the Rev. William Speer and his wife, and at Ningpo. of the Rev. 
J. W. Quarterman. The British troops were this year withdrawn 
from Chusan, and as the Chinese authorities would not permit 
foreigners to reside there, Mr. Loomis and his wife removed to 
Ningpo. 

Mr. Lowrie's study of the Chinese language, while in Macao, as 
already stated, was much interrupted by the business matters of 
the different missions. The Mandarin dialect, which he studied 
at Macao, is not spoken in the south of China, and hence he could 
converse in it with his teacher only. This he found to be a seri- 
ous disadvantage. The Ningpo and Mandarin dialects are as dif- 
ferent from each other as the French is from the Spanish. In 
learning to speak the former, he had therefore to begin anew, with 
the advantage however of hearing it daily spoken by the inhabi- 
tants. But here also his time was a good deal taken up with the 
husiness of the Ningpo Mission, and correcting the proof-sheets of 
works issued from the press. So many, and such long-continued 
adverse circumstances, at times almost produced discouragement 
in his own mind, as it regarded the spoken language. But even 
in it his progress was not slow ; in less than eighteen months he 
commenced preaching in Chinese. His knowledge of the written 
language was more satisfactory to himself. In August he wrote 
several essays, which were published in the Chinese Repository, 
on the proper Chinese words to be used in translating the name 
of God into Chinese. These were among the first pieces that were 
published on the side of the question so ably sustained since by 
Doctors Boone and Bridgeman. 



352 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

In September he commenced the preparation of a dictionary of 
the " Four Books," and afterwards he decided to include also the 
" Five Classics." These books contain the body of the Chinese 
language, and if his life had been spared, he would no doubt have 
made it a dictionary of the whole language. He became much 
interested in this work, and had even to guard himself against 
being drawn aside from his appropriate work of preaching the 
gospel. 

The letters and journals of this period throw much light on the 
interior working of the mission at Ningpo, and still further tend 
to elucidate the state and condition of the native population. 
Other subjects are occasionally adverted to. One of much import- 
ance, in relation to the return of missionaries, is noticed in a letter 
to one of the members of the Executive Committee. It would be 
out of place here to examine the views there presented; but ihe 
whole subject is worthy of far more consideration than it has j^et 
received from the Church at home. 



Ningpo, January 1st, 1846. 

A happy New Year to you, my dear mother, and very many of 
them ! is a wish that, if I had the power, would certainly hd 
accomplished ; and yet, though I might have the power. I might 
not have the wisdom necessary to make it a blessing. So I will 
change it to the prayer, that He who knows what is best for us, 
and loves us far better than any earthly friend can love another, 
would give you such length of days, and such enjoyment therein 
as will make you most useful here, and most biessed hereafter. 
New Year's morning ! Although it be only an arbitrary distinc- 
tion that makes this day more important than any other of the 
year, for each day is the point of "confluence of two eternities," 
yet consent has erected it into a sort of elevation to look back over 
the past, so rapidly fading from view, and to strain our weak eyes 
into the unknown future. How little we can know of the one, 
and how feebly we estimate the importance of the other ! 

Although I always look forward to the New Year with some 
such feelings as these, yet it always takes me by surprise, and I 
find it difficult in looking back to the last one to realize the events 
that have occurred and passed away. How many events must 
have occurred in your larger circle of friends. Here, few as are 
those I know, yet I find strange alterations in the last year. A 
fellow-passenger in the Huntress (Mr. King) died, and was buried 
in the Red Sea. One of my warmest friends, Mrs. Sword, has 
been called home. She was always exceedingly afraid to die, and 
yet when called away, though fully sensible of it, fear had entirely 
departed, and peace reigned. 1* makes me feel desolate sometimes 



LETTERS. 353 

to think of such friends departing, and she is not the only one 
whom the last year has removed me from, though the others are 
not dead, but only farther off, and to remember again that I am a 
stranger in the earth ; but then it is pleasant, too, for the separa- 
tion is but temporary. I have no patience with those stoics who 
maintain that we shall not know our friends in heaven. Certain- 
ly the Spirit of Christ alone would fill our cup of joy even to over- 
flowing, but why should not those who in tears and temptations 
and prayers served him here, and encouraged each other in the 
upward course, rejoice with joy unspeakable together there? We 
shall remember the way by which we were led through this "great 
and terrible wilderness," and shall we forget the kind words 
spoken, the cup of water, the look of affection and encouragement 
more eloquent than words, and more soothing than the sweetest 
harmony ? I do not believe it. Christ said to his disciples that 
those who had "continued with him in his temptations," should 
sit with him in his glory, and if we hold communion with Him in 
this respect, why not with one another? We shall have bodies 
as w T ell as souls in heaven, "spiritual" it is true, but "bodies" 
still; we shall have human affections, too, freed from all sin ; and 
if such affections form our sweetest and most satisfying solace 
here, what will they be there? But I did not mean to write all 
this, for I was thinking of other things when I commenced. 

Here I am, after voyaging and tossing about again on the rough 
sea. I am now settled down in the field I have long been looking 
to. I have made some little progress in the language, and begin 
to feel at home among the people ; but shall I remain here ? I 
do not know why it is, but I seem constantly to have a voice say- 
ing, " Arise, this is not your rest t" Nor should I be surprised at 
any time to receive an order to depart. Yet as such feelings are 
not the rule by which we are to be guided 7 1 endeavor to work on 
as if this were to be my earthly home ; and be my abode long or 
short, to be in readiness when He comes, whose coming will not 
tarry. 

My teacher has just come in, and knowing that this is our new 
year, he has been cogitating a salutation for me, which was as 
follows, Seen sang, shangte pongdzooe ne taou teendong cheaw, 
"Sir, may God assist you and enable you to arrive at heaven !" 
I was not a little surprised and gratified too, for I never heard him 
utter such a sentiment . before. Oh that the wish, which in 
politeness he made for me, were fulfilled in reality to him ! If he 
were but a Christian, or if I might but. see him one, it seems to 
me I should almost be ready to depart in peace; for his talents 
and acquirements are such, that if they were sanctified they would 
be invaluable. But alas, he is proud of his learning, temporizing 
in his policy, and averse to know the plague of his own heart. 
The doctrine of human depravity, he cannot away with ; it is a 
very abomination to him, and after all the instructions he has re- 
ceived, if he repents not, how much greater will be his condemna- 
23 



354 



MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRII 



tion. I fear we shall prove a '-savor of death unto death," to 
more than we shall be the means of saving, in this land. . . . 
Believe me, as ever, yours in kind remembrances, 

And sincere affection, W. M. Lowrie. 



Ningpo, January 17th, 1846. 
My Dear Mother — 

It is Saturday night, and though I might doubtless find some 
Chinese study to occupy me during the hours that remain before 
bed-time, yet I have an idea that a letter to you would be quite as 
agreeable to myself, and more acceptable to you. I have been 
moving this week, and now feel pretty well settled in my new 
abode, having to-day done neatly all 1 intend, for the purpose of 
making it comfortable. On Monday it will be four years since I 
left home, and this is the first week since then that I have been in 
a house I could, properly speaking, call my own. Even here, I 
am only in "my own hired house," but I hope it will be "two full 
years" at least before I have to leave it. While in Macao and 
elsewhere, I have scarcely known from one month's end to another, 
where I should be in two months more. So you may think I 
begin to feel somewhat "settled." 

Would you like a description of my house? Here it is. It is 
situated in the "Howse," or back street, between the Salt Gate 
and the East Gate, and within four minutes' walk of the busiest 
part of the city. The street itself has few shops, but it is a great 
thoroughfare. The house is separated from the east wall only by 
a narrow lane, and by the aid of a pile of rubbish close by, I can 
get up on the wall without difficulty. It looks toward the south- 
west, or rather west-south-west. But please inspect this plan of 
the house, which will give you a better idea of it. 

This is the ground 
floor. Entering by the 
great door, is the front 
court, stone paved, about 
thirty by fifteen feet. 
Nos. 1 and 2 are small 
chambers, perhaps ten 
by eight, which I have 
no particular use for. 
Nos. 3 and 7 are pas- 
sage ways, in each of 
which is a stair-case to 
go up stairs, but the stair-case in No. 7 is not used just now. In 
No. 4 I keep my Chinese tracts, &c, and my teacher has a table 
where he sits and writes. At present the servants sleep in No. 6. 
'No. 8 is the kitchen, and No. 9 is a private place. The back 
court is about twenty by six feet. No. 5 is the reception hall, 
where is a table, four chairs, and some Chinese pictures, all of 







9 [~ BACK COUR 


• 1 




8 


3 


4 


10 




i 


5 


G 




PORTICO 




2 


FRONT COURT 
.. D 


1 



This wall is about twelve feet high. 



355 




Qw 







l§_ 



>ra_§j 



which together cost less than five dollars. It is only an earthen 
floor, as are all the lower parts except Nos. 4 and 6. No. 10 is 
a little room of no particular use, but does very well for boxes, &c. 
Please come up stairs. 

No. 1 is the stair-way and lit- 
tle passage annexed ; 2 is a 
store-room or spare-room ; 3 is 
my bed-room ; and 4 is my par- 
lor, study, and dining-room ; 
aaa are doors ;bbb windows, 
at present nailed up ; c c c are windows with only window-shut- 
ters ; d d d are windows with six panes of glass each. Please now 
to sit down in my parlor and look around. 

The room is about eighteen 
feet square, being the largest in 
the house, the rooms below are 
deeper but not so wide. In this 
room the back windows, b b, are 
nailed up ; I shall open them in 
summer, s is my fire-place, a 
great awkward concern. I mean 
to take it away when the 
weather grows mild, and put another between b b. o is a little 
table ; r, a couch ; w w, two Chinese book-cases, one filled with 
Mr. L's. present of the books of the Board of Publication ; t is my 
round centre and dining table; m is my study table; and n is a 
little table to keep my case of books in every-day use, to wit, 
Morrison's Dictionary, &c. The door a I keep shut, as it is of no 
use. In summer I think of having the stairs to come up where 
the fire-place is. This will cut off some of my room, but it will be 
greatly more convenient, and will obviate the necessity of coming 
up through the store-room and bed-room. 

In my bed-room I have a single bedstead, bureau, a Macao book- 
case full of books, wash-stand, and the mission money-chest, be- 
sides one or two trunks ; and in the store-room only some two or 
three boxes of my damaged books. So you have been all through 
my house ; it is rather too good for me, but I could not get any 
other, and I was tired of living in the temple, which was out of the 
way, and not very pleasant in some respects. The house is large 
too, but then I can the more easily accommodate a friend. The 
rent is nine dollars a month, and I have had no little trouble about 
it this week, but it is all settled now I believe. 

I am sorry you put yourself to the trouble of getting the maple- 
sugar. I will tell you what I do want though, very much indeed, 
and that is two of the best rat-traps that a missionary ought to 
possess. What big rats there are here. One end of my blanket 
happened to fall on the floor, and the rats gnawed a hole in it. It 
is the only blanket I have got, and I cannot afford to have it eaten 
by rats. Well, I awoke during the night, and behold, a party of 



356 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

rats were dancing a jig on my bed-room floor. I dare say, if yon 
would send me half a dozen good rat-traps, I could dispose of them 
all, for I am not the only sufferer ; but do send me two, and I will 
send you the first pretty vase I can find. I hcpe father will not 
laugh at all this. . . . 

Ever affectionately yours, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ningpo, February 3d, 1846. 
Rev. Levi Janvier — 

Dear Brother : — Your very welcome letter of March and 
April reached me September 9, in the midst of our annual meeting 
here. I had not intended to defer writing so long, but being sec- 
retary, and having to copy all the minutes twice, write the annual 
report, and a copy of it, the circular of the mission, and other 
things besides, I have had little time or inclination for any corres- 
pondence that I could at all postpone. I wish I had some way of 
diminishing my correspondence, for it forms a pretty serious part, 
of my work here. I do not mean with you, and such as you, for 
that is a relaxation and a pleasure ; but I am sometimes quite as- 
tonished to find how much time is taken in writing to persons of 
whom I know little or nothing. I find a hundred copies of the 
circular of the mission not more than sufficient for my wants. 
Why do I have so many ? you will say. Because I cannot help 
it. Some I do not want to give up ; some do not want me to give 
them up ; and to some I can do a little good by writing, and per- 
haps exert some good influence on them. But enough of this. 

I was very sorry to hear of the death of your little boy. I saw 
it, I think, in the Friend of India, before you wrote. I trust your 
little girl is still spared to you. As to myself, I am still enjoying 
the blessedness of single life, having a whole house to " Fanny" 
(my dog) and myself, with two Chinese servants, who speak not 
a word of English, and not another foreigner within a mile of me, 
and often for a day or two, or more, not seeing the face of one. 
But with all these advantages, I am making but poor progress in 
this language. I am hoping, within the present year, to be able 
to commence preaching. You, I suppose, are quite fluent by this 
time, in your new tongue, as you talk about "preaching." How- 
ever, I should have been preaching before now, had I all the time 
since coming to China enjoyed half the advantages for learning the 
language that I do now. 

The weather here is real winter. For twelve days in succes- 
sion, we had ice every night more than an inch thick. We have 
had two or three light falls of snow, and a fire is very comfortable, 
and I suppose will be so for two months yet. The lowest we have 
had the thermometer has been 20°, but it generally ranges from 
35° to 44° or 46°. I have not seen it above the latter point for 
more than two months, except in the middle of the sunshiny days. 



LETTERS. 357 

.... Did you ever examine 2 Cor. ii. 14 — 17 ? I preached on it 
yesterday, and it is a very solemn and almost awful subject, full 
of consolation, and yet full of terror. Since writing' to you last, I 
have adopted many of the millenarian views, in regard to the sec- 
ond advent of Christ, return of the Jews, &c, and they seem to 
make many things in the history of missions that were dark be- 
fore, much more plain and encouraging. I find much satisfaction 
in them, and often long inexpressibly for the " coming and appear- 
ing" of our Lord. Oh, to be found doing his work when he comes, 
and not idling in the field to which he has sent me ! With my 
Christian regards to your wife and associates, believe me, 
Ever yours in the gospel and the ministry of Christ, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ningpo, February 22d, 1846. 
My Dear Father — 

Your very welcome letter of August 4, came to hand January 
26. The other articles sent at the same time, have not yet been 
received. I am exceedingly grateful to you for the copy of the 
" Exploring Expedition." I had been longing for a copy, and had 
it at my finger's end to send for it several times, but I was really 
ashamed to do so. I have received so many things from you and 
others, that it seems as if I ought not to get any more. Indeed, I 
often think I fare far better even in temporal things, than if I had 
stayed at home, and the load of obligations to my heavenly Father 
is often almost greater than I can bear. A sense of my own un- 
profitableness and useless ness. while receiving so many mercies, 
has made me feel very unhappy. 

In learning to read this difficult language, I am getting on tol- 
erably well — a multitude of petty occupations, connected with the 
press, correcting font of type, accounts, &c, keeps me from giving 
much time to composition. 

I commenced a Chinese letter to you on my birthday, the 8th 
inst., but found it so hard that I gave it over, after a sentence or 
two, and have not since had time to resume it. However, I will 
try and send you one soon. 

I have read carefully your remarks on Millenarianism, and the 
article in the Chronicle, in which there is much that I believe, and 
some things from which I might differ. I think the expression 
ovvteIeiuv tov amvov a very different one from zeloc tou y.oafiov, and 
it is a mystery to me how our going to the Lord at death, can be 
equivalent to his •' coming to us," which he commands us to watch 
for. The fact that there is such a remarkable difference between 
the phraseology of the New Testament, and the phraseology of 
Christians, strikes me as very strange. Christ and the apostles 
constantly exhort to prepare, to watch for the coming of the Lord ; 
but most people say, "watch for the coming of death." I do not 
think these two are the same thinar. I have looked death in the 



358 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

face, and by the great grace of Christ, could do so without fear; 
but I could not say to death what we are taught to say to Christ, 
" Come Lord Jesus, come quickly." 

I have no doubt, that until the awielsia tov uuavov, the present 
means, and only the present means for the conversion of sinners, 
are to be used. I think he would do very wrong who would say, 
that " The world will not be converted by these means, and there- 
fore we need not use them," for though I do not expect the world 
to be converted during the present dispensation, by such means, 
yet I do expect that all the elect, be they few or many, will, by 
the foolishness of preaching, be saved. The elect, too, during the 
present dispensation, are scattered throughout the known world, 
and millenarianism, as I have embraced it, makes it peculiarly the 
duty of the church to go throughout the world and carry the gos- 
pel, for until the gospel is preached unto all nations, the millenium 
cannot come. What means shall be used after the coming of 
Christ, I do not pretend to say. They may be the present means, 
though that does not seem to be clearly revealed. But if they are 
the present means, there must be a power and efficiency given to 
them, such as was not witnessed even on the day of pentecost ; 
otherwise, I do not see how the promises are to be fulfilled. Still 
I do not pretend to make my w T eak vision the measure of omnip- 
otence. 

I do not think there will ever be any revelation from God sub- 
verting the present Bible, but I do not see what there is in the 
Bible saying that no further revelation will be given, or why we 
may not expect a revelation as much in advance of the Christian 
as the Christian is in advance of the Levitical. Certainly, when 
" the people are all righteous," when " there are none to hurt or 
destroy in all the holy mountain," it would sound strange to hear 
a sermon on the text, "Broad is the gate, many go in thereat ; 
strait is the way, few walk therein :" (I only quote the sense.) 
When "Kings are nursing fathers, queens nursing mothers, and 
great the peace of thy people," although it will be profitable to look 
back to the times of trial, yet it can hardly be said, that " all that 
will live godly shall suffer persecution." When Satan is "bound," 
even if only a figurative binding, he can hardly be said to " go 
about as a roaring lion." Now the greater part of the New Tes- 
tament is intended for times of trial, just as the greater part of 
the books of Moses was intended for the land of Palestine. Will 
it be appropriate when " the wilderness shall rejoice and blossom 
as the rose ?" But I did not mean to write all this. However 
much in error you may deem me on some points, do not think me 
in error on the grand ones of human depravity, the atonement of 
Christ, and the influences of the Spirit. These must always re- 
main the same, whatever differences there may be in the external 
means by which they are regulated. It is to me a very pleasant 
thought, that Christ shall reign in honor where he was crucified 
in ignominy and scorn ; that this fair and beautiful earth shall be 



LETTERS. 6o9 

redeemed ; and that we may reasonably look for his glorious ap- 
pearing soon to take to him his great power and reign. How 
soon, I do not pretend to say ; but it is my daily prayer, that if 
you and I live to see it, we may each be found watching for him 
in the sphere he has appointed, so that if he cometh we may be 
ready. You will ask, " Why do T trouble myself with these new 
notions ? Why is not the old belief, (though it is not the old be- 
lief,) about our going to Him, good enough ?" It would be good 
enough, and far too good, for such a creature as I feel myself to 
be, and if it be the truth of Scripture, I am most heartily willing 
to receive it ; but with such light as I have, after much prayer 
and searching of the Scriptures, it does not seem to me to be all 
that is promised. I should be most thankful to pick the crumbs, 
but if called and commanded to the feast, it does not seem to be 
humility or obedience to turn away. 

But I will stop now. Pray for me, that I may not embrace or 
teach error, even on points not essential to salvation. With many 
affectionate remembrances, 

I am, as ever, your dutiful son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ningjjo, March 6th, 1846. 
Rev. Daniel Wells — 

My Dear Brother : — The news you sent me from Mr. Ja- 
cobus' church was deeply gratifying. Since the novelty of mission- 
ary life has worn off, I have learned to prize more highly the 
prayers of God's people at home. If those good people could but 
see a little of a missionary's heart, and the crowd of thoughts that 
pass there, they would think these prayers might be of much 
service. When one's own corruptions fill his- heart with sorrow; 
when, amidst all his efforts at a strange language, he finds him- 
self making but slow progress; when he finds the people utterly 
dead to all his warnings, and intent onhy on gain ; when he sees 
the laborers few, and the field so great, and occupied by those who 
are sowing tares — 0, wonder not if he asks almost despairingly, 
" Can these dry bones live ?" Lord God, thou knowest ! It does 
not require many months' experience among the heathen to be 
satisfied, that it is "not by might, nor by power, but by the Spirit 

of the Lord," that our work is to become successful 

Ever yours in Christian affection, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ningpo, April 21st, 1846. 
Rev. John Lloyd — 

My Dear Brother : — It is now near four months since I 
wrote to you, but you will believe me when I say, that if I have 
not written I have at least not forgotten you, and often try to 



360 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

remember you, where I trust you remember me, at a throne of 
grace, I could give you the usual string of apologies ; Chinese, 
reading proofs, keeping accounts, answering letters ; but I fear if 
I did so, it would make you think I was doing a great deal, when 
in fact weeks pass away and I seem to have done nothing, to 
have really made no progress, and have to cry out for mercy to 
the unprofitable servant. How would Calvin, or men of half his 
mind, smile at the idea of all I do being called work ! I fancy 
that hundreds of men do as much before breakfast as I do in a 
whole day. I find it a very serious drawback in my study and 
acquirement of the language, that so much of the best part of 
my missionary life was spent where the dialect I was studying 
was not spoken. Although I know more of books than any 
other here, yet McCartee speaks incomparably better than I do, 
and both Culbertson and Loomis will probably be preaching be- 
fore me. What in the world should I do among the " tones" of 
your delightful dialect 1 I fancy I should be among them like a 
certain Presbyterian clergyman, who attempted to conduct the 
Episcopal service once, and had if. reported of him afterwards 
that " he wandered up and down among the prayers, like a blind 
man among the tombs." 

This reminds me that in your last you speak of our having no 
tones in this dialect. This is to a great extent, but not entirely, 
the case. The tones are necessary in some words ; but generally 
speaking, if you get the idiomatic expression, you need not bother 
your head about the tones ; and none of us pay any theoretical 
attention whatever to their acquisition. It is a pretty good proof 
of their not being necessary, that the Fuhkeen men, of whom 
there are many here, cannot learn to speak this dialect well. 
The remark is often made that "you foreigners speak Ningpo 
dialect better than the Fuhkeen people;" and imperfect as my 
acquirements are in speaking, I have been told a dozen times that 
I pronounce better than the Fuhkeen men. If I could only get 
among the people, and not see a book or a foreigner for six 
months or a year, I think there would be some hopes; and I 
often half wish some person would run away with me, and keep 
me captive for a while, for otherwise I do not see how I am to 
get away. Well, all this is egotism, and much of it is nonsense; 
but I beg you to receive it as a proof how much I care for you, 
that I let you see such effusions, and how much I do not care for 
you, or I would not let you see them. 

I have just been interrupted by a long talk from a couple of 
Chinese, who talked so fast that the words came out like a mill- 
stream, and all I could do was to gather the drift of the discourse 
and let the particular words vanish into thin air. I wish I could talk 
as much as I can understand ! But patience, perseverance, and 
prayer ! Oh to be kept from growing weary or careless in God's 
work. I did not feel afraid of this in the first year or two ; but 
now it requires much watchfulness and prayer, lest I become 



LETTERS. 361 

weary or discouraged. You have much reason for thankfulness 
that you got to your field so soon, and have not quite so many 
letters to write, as I had during my first two years; but I ought 
not to complain of them, for it was my appointed work, since the 
providence of God repeatedly prevented me from taking any other 
course, and perhaps it was the best on the whole. But as I look over 
my past life, and especially that part spent in missionary ground, 
I have to pray, " pardon the unprofitable, erring, sinful servant !" 

It is so late, having been so interrupted by the conversation 
above referred to, that I must close my sheet for the night, hoping 
to be able to finish to-morrow, though I know not when a letter 
can be sent from here. If the overland route answers, we will 
try and send in that way. 

I think Mr. Smith has led you into a mistake, on the point of 
the " two dialects." As far as I know, in all parts of China, the 
written and the colloquial dialects differ so widely as to be really 
two languages. This is the case here, for Ningpo colloquial can- 
not be written with Chinese characters. True, many words, 
perhaps one-half, are the same in the two ; but you never can 
tell from seeing a character in a book whether it can be used in 
speaking, unless your teacher tells you. Jin is spoken nying ; 
urh tz is spoken 'ny tz ; chay-ko is spoken kihko, while Joo-tsze 
which is book Mandarin, and chay-yang which is colloquial 
Mandarin, meaning, " so fashion," or " in this way," in one dia- 
lect is sz'-ka-go, which cannot be written at all, i. e., has no 
characters to express it ; though characters might be arbitrarily 
employed, which would give the sound. This is the case with 
hundreds of words in common use. 

I was both pleased and surprised to hear how much missionary 
work is done in Amoy. Would that we could report the half of 
it here ! But except tract distributing, at which we all do a little, 
there is no preaching excepting by Dr. McCartee, who has a service 
every Sabbath, and talks to the people frequently during the 
week. I have tried once or twice, but, like the man who tried to 
swim before he had been in the water, succeeded so poorly, that I 
feel afraid to try again. I conduct service with my servants 
morning and evening, and hope I shall soon be able to set up a 
meeting which might be called " a parish meeting," i. e., not a 
regular preaching service, but a preparatory one, which will pre- 
pare me for preaching. I have been much thrown back by not 
having been able to get a teacher on whom I could depend for 
giving me the colloquial expressions. The one I had for nine 
months after coming was a capital scholar, but proud, disobliging, 
or rather unobliging, and took no interest in anything of the 
kind. After bearing with him till I could bear no longer, I trained 
him off and got another, who was so stupid that I kept him only 
a month. Yesterday I got a new one, and he has taken such 
li strong hold" as quite astonishes me. " A new broom sweeps 
clean ;" but this man is a scholar, appears to be a gentleman, is 



362 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

quite obliging, lively, patient, apt to teach, and on two days' ac- 
quaintance I am greatly pleased. I hope he will hold out, but I 
greatly fear. If he does well, and if he becomes a Christian, Oh, 
how I should rejoice ! With a good teacher, who was a real 
Christian, I think I might be of very much more use than I am 
now. 

You speak of " feeling as safe as if in New York or Philadel- 
phia." I feel the same here. I live a mile from any foreigner, 
and have frequently walked two miles through the city after eight 
or nine o'clock, p. m., without a lantern or any company, with less 
apprehension than I would go through many parts of New York 
city. The people here are generally very well behaved, and very 
civil. 

As to mandarins, we see none of them ; we do not visit them, 
and are not visited by them. The English consul has discour- 
aged visiting, and foreigners, except officers, seldom go near them. 
There is a white-buttoned one whom Dr. McCartee and I have 
called on, and been called on by ; and last year we had frequent 
calls from travelling mandarins with gilt and white buttons, who 
came to see the strangers ; but of late I have seen none, and do 
not feel any anxiety to meet them. You get in with them at 
Amoy, because of the important fact that Abeel and Boone and 
Cummings have had to act as interpreters, when there were none 
but missionaries to interpret, and as the mandarins of course know 
of no difference between you and others, they keep up the acquain- 
tance. 

We are all moving on very quietly and pleasantly. The weather 
is getting pleasantly warm, but even yet I like to sit with my fur 
coat on in the mornings and evenings, and have as yet laid aside 
neither flannels nor woollen stockings. It has rained almost 
every day this month, and in consequence of so much rain now, 
and the probability of very little next month, when it will be much 
wanted, fears of a scarcity of rice prevail, and it is already rising 
in price. As to ships, there has not been one here, except men 
of war, since last August. I do not know how we are to get our 
funds after Chusan is given up. Our letters we shall manage to 
get overland from Shanghai. 

We have bought a burying-ground here, about one hundred 
feet by fifty, for fifty dollars. Abraham's first possession in the 
land where he was a stranger, was a burying-ground. 
Your brother in Christ. 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ni?igpo, July 9th, 1846. 
My Dear Father— 

Your tw j most acceptable letters of November, 1845, and Febru- 
ary, 1846, came, one in the end of May, and the other to-day. I 
cannot tell you how much I am obliged for your good long letters : 



the journals of your trips to Washington and to Alban) r , were 
deeply interesting, I wish I could give you an account of half as 
much done by myself, but all my performances seem to me of 
small account. Here is a specimen of to-day's employment. Rose 
before six. Our nights are warm, and following on warmer days, 
1 do not derive the refreshment from them that I could wish. 
After breakfast and prayers, went over the river to see after the 
printing office, got a proof to correct, and came back ; it was ten 
o'clock when I got home, and thermometer then at 90° ; sat down 
with my teacher and went over Acts xvii., on which he wrote 
comments by my explanations. Then read some in Mencius, and 
looked over some points in Chinese history, and some notices of 
two or three of their sages, By this time it was one o'clock, and 
the thermometer had risen to 98° in my coolest room. I was 
pretty well tired, and told my teacher that was enough for to-day; 
came up stairs, corrected the proof for the press, and finished the 
first draught of a letter, one of a series which I am preparing for 
the Foreign Missionary. This and dinner kept me till three 
o'clock ; all this time the thermometer at blood heat ; and though 
a pleasant breeze blowing, yet coming in at times as if out of a 
furnace. I have never known such warm weather since I have 
been in China, and it so relaxes the whole system, that a very 
little labor is quite sufficient to lay a man by. At three I felt so 
tired that I lay down, and between reading a little and dozing, 
whiled away the time till five ; then got up, found it a little cooler, 
sat in the breeze and read an account of the synod of Dort till six. 
Went out then for a walk ; went through a number of streets, 
and found everybody out of doors, men all half naked, and many 
of the children entirely so, and the heat given out from the stones 
and houses so great as to be very oppressive. This, and the foul 
odors arising from the filth common to every Chinese city, were 
such that I was glad to get on the city wall, and turn my steps 
homeward. Somewhat of a breeze on the wall, and getting to 
my own house about sunset, I sat down to enjoy it. Presently a 
man came along and seemed anxious to say something ; so he 
asked if I would take a smoke ? I told him, no, I did not smoke, 
and asked him to sit down. Then he asked how old I was? 
Where I came from ? Where I lived ? &c, &c. By this time 
others came, one, two, five, ten, and soon there were about fifty 
persons collected to see and hear the Hungnan-nying, (Red-haired 
man, as they call all Englishmen.) Asked a good many ques- 
tions, and in the course of the talk, gave me an opportunity of 
saying several things very pointedly about the folly of idolatry, 
the importance of attending to one's soul, and the way of salva- 
tion through Christ. Speaking of Jesus, one of the men remarked 
that he supposed Jesus was much such a person as Confucius. 
" No, Confucius was only a man, but Christ was far superior to 
men." Was listened to with as much attention and interest as I 
bave been at any time, and found it gave me some access to tlienij 



364 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

when they found that I had read and could give the sense of their 
own books. There was one man there from Shantung, but I 
could understand very little of what he said. He seemed, how- 
ever, to have no difficulty in understanding all I said, and seemed 
much interested. Gave away some tracts ; gave a copy of " The 
Two Friends," to one whose appearance had pleased me. He 
looked at it and asked if all I had were alike, and begged for a 
copy of another kind. Came away, all of them giving me a 
hearty good-by, and one or two joining their hands and thanking 
me for the books and doctrine. Came back home, got my tea, and 
set down to this letter, which I suppose will take all the rest of the 
evening. The thermometer is now down to 91°. I am sitting 
in a thin grass cloth suit, and feeling comparatively comfortable 
after the hot day. 

In some of my previous letters, I have probably given you to 
understand that I was much discouraged about learning to speak 
this language. This arose in a measure from the unfaithfulness of 
a teacher whom I employed after coming here. For a while I 
learned a good deal, and as he was a capital scholar, I wanted to 
keep him. But after being with me a few months he found out 
what words I knew, and would use no others, so that during the 
last four months I had him, I scarcely learned a new phrase. I 
disliked to turn him off, because in some things he suited me ad- 
mirably, being good at explaining the classics, and besides he was 
poor: but at last I could endure it no longer. It was then some 
two months before I could get a good teacher. If I could go 
about as some others can, I should be less dependent on a teacher, 
but my disposition does not lead me to delight in promiscuous 
company ; and somehow I have the knack of getting a large 
share of the writing, book-keeping, proof correcting, &c, of the 
mission into my hands, which gives me less time than I could 
wish for visiting and going about. However, I have been favored 
in getting a first-rate teacher, and have gained so much in the 
last two months as quite encourages me ; and it is my present 
expectation, (Deo volente,) to commence a regular religious service 
in Chinese when the warm weather is over. I might do it now, 
but prefer not undertaking what would necessarily require a good 
deal of labor in preparation, until the present oppressive season is 
past, and in the mean time, go about a little and talk as I did to- 
night, which is a help in perfecting my pronunciation, and en- 
abling me to speak without embarrassment. In the course of the 
present year, I hope we shall have several of our number actively 
employed in preaching. 

... I quite agree with you in the general principle, that a wife 
should not always take her husband home. Still in many cases. 

a wife cannot go alone. Dr. and Mrs. H , (of the L. M. S.,1 

went home last year on account of her health, and she died be- 
fore she got to England. Mrs. J. S — ■ — , went without her hus- 
band, and took her children, (five or six, one very young;) she 



LETTERS. 365 

died on the voyage. I have not heard how the children got home. 
It is this that makes it so difficult for a woman to go alone. Few 
missionaries have left China of late for their health, till they were 
well nigh broken down, and it requires no small resolution to send 
off a sick wife on a long voyage, especially if she have children 
to take care of. What is to be done? For a while I was tempted 
to wish that missionaries could live without wives ; but after more 
experience and reflection, I am satisfied that all men cannot re- 
ceive this saying. Even if unmarried men could be contented 
and happy, yet there are other, and serious objections. I have 
seen more than one or two cases in which I thought the bachelor 
missionary, merry and cheerful as he professed to be, would have 
been not simply a happier man, but a more humane, thoughtful, 
sober, useful missionary, and a far better example to the heathen, 
if he had been married ; and where example is of such vital im- 
portance as it is here, whatever conduces to render it better, is not 

to be overlooked 

Your affectionate and obedient son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ningpo, August 10th, 1846. 
Rev. John C. Lowrie — 

My Dear Brother : — . . . I heard of Mr. Dod's death, but had 
not heard of Mrs. P.'s. How many gaps there are already in the cir- 
cle of my acquaintances at home ! You will not perceive it so 
much as you are constantly making new ones, but mine are only 
decreasing : so be it. " I am a stranger in the earth/' and never 
so happy as when I feel it most. 

This has been an oppressingly hot summer. I will send you a 
notice of it soon. I doubt whether you saw the equal of it in In- 
dia. For days together we have had the thermometer up to 100°, 
but most providentially, it always fell 12° or 14° at night. June, 
July, and the first week of this month were roasters ; but the worst 
is over now, and it felt quite delicious to-day when the thermome- 
ter got up only to 88£°. Then we have had a drought all sum- 
mer ; rumors of poisoning ; alarms of evil spirits, and an earth- 
quake, a veritable earthquake, which shook the houses right mer- 
rily, and wakened every man, woman and child in Ningpo. Such 
screaming ! and beating of gongs ! and firing of crackers ! I will 
send you accounts of all these presently. I have them all in my 
journal. The earthquake was on the 4th instant, about three 
o'clock, a. m. It did no harm, but it frightened the people terribly,, 
especially as they were then under extreme alarm, from a panic 
occasioned by the belief that there are thousands of evil spirits bent 
on mischief in the city. "With all the melancholy arising from 
seeing them so wholly given up to such superstition, it is yet most 
ludicrous to see what tales they can invent. The panic is dying 
away now, but when we found the people giving credence to such 



366 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

tales, we began to fear that evil might come out of it. There is 
no joke in it, however, for Mr. and Mrs. Loomis have just come 
over from Chusan, not being allowed to remain there, and can get 
no house here, on account of the panic and fear of evil spirits, 
which are supposed to have some connection with foreigners. . . . 
Pray for me, and believe me ever, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ningpo, August 13th, 1846. 
My Dear Mother — 

Your long letter, February 11, came July 29, about a month af- 
ter some letters sent in the same ship, which I received before 
yours. I need not say how glad I was to get it. . . . 

So many changes have occurred among my acquaintances in 
New York, that I should feel quite like a stranger there. . . I can 
hardly realize that I am already in my twenty-eighth year. When 
shall I grow to the stature of a perfect man in Christ Jesus? 
Sometimes I feel lonely ; sometimes long for a bosom Christian 
friend ; sometimes long for the wings of a dove to fly away ; and 
then again, oh how cold, and dark, and dead. It seems to me the 
longer 1 live the less I know or do, and the harder and worse I be- 
come, so that I feel ashamed to get the kind letters that are sent 
me from home, and almost hope you will not send any more books, 
or papers, or remembrances, that seem almost thrown away on one 
so worthless as 1 am. I seem to be getting selfish of late, and it 
often distresses me. Perhaps you will say, " all this is but depres- 
sion of spirits." Perhaps it is, and as I become stronger with the 
returning cold weather, and can do more, it may go away. . . 

Good night, and much love to all. 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ningpo, August 26th, 1846. 
My Dear Father — h> 

.... Our excessive hot w T eather is now over, and though the 
days are sometimes warm, the nights are delightful, and we are 
all in the enjoyment of excellent health. My appetite and strength 
are returning rapidly, and the summer, notwithstanding my fears 
in June, has been the most comfortable 1 have spent in China. I 
have not done much for two months past, however, for it is really too 
much labor to study or work with the thermometer at blood heat. 

Of late, I have been busily engaged in collating notes and quo- 
tations, on the proper word for expressing the name of the Su- 
preme Being, in Chinese. The weight of authority, i. e., most of 
the most learned missionaries, have given their influence in favor 
of using Shang-te, but many others dislike the term exceedingly, 
as being the proper name of the chief Chinese god ; and when we 
use it, the people at once say, " oh yes, that's our Shang-te." I 



LETTERS. 367 

have satisfied myself pretty well that Shin is the proper word tc 
use. ... If this word is adopted, it will then become almost neces- 
sary to use the word Poo sa in colloquial, though many have taken 
up a strange prejudice against the word, as if it meant an idol, and 
was a contemptuous or dishonorable term. Nothing can be more 
contrary to the fact, and I have found myself in my efforts to talk 
to the people, almost compelled to use it, there being no other term 
in the language which expresses so well and so intelligibly, what 
we mean by God. It is a little troublesome in preparing articles 
of this kind, not to have the proper books at hand for reference. 

My library is, I believe, the best in Ningpo, (unless Mr. T 

has a better, which I doubt.) but I found it quite insufficient for 
my wants, as I know of several books which would have materially 
helped me, but had them not. 

Everything goes on very pleasantly and harmoniously in the mis- 
sion ; but the great things, life, and vigor, and zeal, are lament- 
ably wanting. How easy it is, even for the missionary, to seek for 
pleasure in everything but in God. I am often cast down, and 
sometimes deeply discouraged, to find in me so little love for my 
Saviour, and so little disposition to active exertion. Instead of 
coming nearer and nearer, and being more conformed to God, I 
seem to be going farther and farther away. I trust that no one 
else here is so low or so useless as I often feel myself to be. The 
sense of my own, worthlessness often makes me unwilling to send 
for such things in the way of books as I need, (and there is very 
little else that I feel any want of,) and even unwilling to receive 
all the kind presents and letters that are sent to me. Oh, for more 
purity, and zeal, and love — to be like Christ. Do not cease to pray 
for my spiritual well-being. 

Believe me as ever, your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ningpo, September 3d, 1846. 
My Dear Mother — 

The clock has struck eleven, and I ought to be in bed, but I feel 
as if I wanted to write to you, though I do not know that I have 
much to say. I was writing a sermon this evening to preach on 
the next Sabbath, for I still write sermons occasionally, and get- 
ting it finished before eight o'clock, I was a little at a loss what to 
.do, for I did not feel like reading or studying after that. So I took 
out a package containing the letters received from father and you, 
during the first two years of my life in China. Getting interested, 
I kept at them till nearly eleven o'clock, and then felt as if I 
wanted to thank you more heartily than I had ever done for all 
your affection, and sympathy, and kindness to me. Of course I 
could not read them all over, but I glanced over each, and .read 
parts of them, and many a tear fell as 1 recalled the scenes 
through which I had passed, and your deep sympathies with me, 



36S MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

It is good to weep sometimes, and I often wish I could weep 
more over my own sinfulness and uselessness. It ia nearly five 
years since I have seen you ; sometimes I catch myself asking - , 
" Shall I see you again ?" and then again, " But how is it possi- 
ble ?" I was discouraged a few months ago, for fear I never 
would learn this language, but for the lasi seven months I have 
made such progress that I should be loath on any account to 
leave this field of labor. I think now my prospects of acquiring a 
pretty thorough and extensive knowledge of it are quite fair ; and 
if so, then here is my field, and here would I gladly labor, and die, 
or, if the Lord pleases, abide till he comes. It would be a sad 
thing not to be at my post when he comes, though much I fear 
that I shall not stand before him without blushing for my mani- 
fold imperfections, and great unprofitableness. Yet if I may be 
of a little use here, it will abundantly repay me ; and at present I 
can conceive of scarcely anything that would be so painful as to 
go back to the United States without an unmistakable call to do 
so. It does seem to me as if I could not do it. How much of 
this may be from a desire to preserve my reputation, I will not pre- 
tend to say, but among other motives, I trust that of preaching Christ 
to these poor idolaters is not the least. How wretched is their 
condition ! I stood at my window the other day, and saw an idola- 
trous procession goby, till my heart asked, "Oh, Lord, how long?" 

But I am wandering from my purpose, which was more imme- 
diately to tell you how I felt in recalling the trials and events of the 
first few months of my life out in China. Somehow, they seem 
to have happened much longer ago than is really the case. Most 
of them seem to have occurred ten years ago ; and I sometimes 
think of them as if they had happened to another person. How 
much goodness and mercy were mingled with them all. I was 
much struck, too, in reading your letters, to notice how many that 

I knew when with you are already dead : Miss P , Miss R , 

M T , H V , F , Miss H , and so many 

others. Some that were careless then, are pious now. Changes, 
breaking up, and settling down : — I am more at home here than I 
should be in the United Sates. 

I am commonly very happy, all but in one thing ; I have so little 
grace. Pray for me. It is a hard thing to keep the flame of piety 
burning bright when the sickening blasts of idolatry blow on the 
soul, and there are few to speak of Christ. Oh for the time to 
come when he will take to Himself his great power and reign. I 
hope my MillenariLnism will not offend you. I find unspeakable 
comfort at times in thinking of his "appearing," willing to labor 
till he comes, but saying, " Lord Jesus, come quickly." What a 
glorious time it will be ! He came once, and though he came to 
suffer and to die, yet even then the " groaning creation" was on 
tip-toe to receive him. The winds heard his voice, the waves 
became solid beneath his feet, the fish came at his command, the 
tree shook down its leaves when he spoke. Good angels hovered 



LETTERS. 



near, and devils fled at his word. If all this happened when he 
came to be "a servant," what will it be when he comes "to reign?" 
and we shall reign with him. Yes, forever and ever. Now, you 
believe all this, of course, as firmly as I do. though we may differ 
a? to the time. I think it may happen in our day, but it will 
certainly happen some day. Oh to be accepted when he comes ! 
Who will think of labors, or trials-, or separations then? ; 'So 
shall we be ever with the Lord." It makes me wonder, how can 
he condescend so low ? how is it possible we can be lifted up so 
high ? But " fear not, little flock, it is your Father's good pleas- 
ure to give you the kingdom." It is his "■ good pleasure," and so 
we shall have it. If it were our " good deeds," we might despair, 
Thanks be unto God for his unspeakable gift. 

I do not write so much and so freely as I used to ; and I some- 
times fear you may think I am forgetting, or losing my affection 
for you ; but it is not so. I have more to do than I used to have, 
though I do not seem to accomplish much, and it is often of such 
a kind as indisposes me for the free and easy letters I would like 
to write. But nothing brings tears more easily to my eyes than to 
recall past hours with you, and I sometimes seem to live them 
over again. Well ! here is the last corner of the sheet, and though 
I have not said much, yet it seems like a relief to say even this, 
disjointed as it is. It is nearly midnight, — high noon with you. 
How often is it so in life ! Bright noon and joy with one, and 
perhaps his dearest friend at the same moment in midnight gloom, 
but the Sun is still in his place, as bright and cheering as ever ; 
and '-when I awake, I am still with thee." I presume you know 
my meaning. I have not space to enlarge it, and so write here 
Ever affectionately yours, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ningpo, September 15th, 1846. 
My Dear Father — 

.... You will unite with us in thanksgiving, that we have 
been permitted to receive a Chinese, a native of this place, into the 
church. He was for a long time, eight or ten months, under 
pretty constant instruction and examination, and gave us every 
satisfaction before being admitted to the church. He is employed 
by Miss Aldersey, who has been very faithful to him in teaching 
him. 

.... I got my head full of a notion of preparing a Dictionary 
of the Four Books the other day, and may perhaps try to make 
something out of it. There is no existing dictionary by which a 
Chinese student can read even the Four Books with satisfaction. 
Morrison's is the best. My plan would be to make a Dictionary, 
1st. Of all the words in the Four Books, about 2500 : this would 
be the great body of characters used in the language — Dyer's list 
having only 3500. 2d. To give all the meanings of each word that 
24 



370 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

occurs in the Four Books, which, as they are the foundation of 
the literature of China, would be by much the greater part of the 
important definitions needed. 3d. To give pretty full biographical 
notices of all the persons, and notices also of the places mentioned 
in the Four Books : this would give nearly everything that is 
important in ancient Chinese history. The above is the better 
half of what I have cut out. To do it, without interfering with 
my more direct and more important missionary labors, would re- 
quire between two and three years. Should this plan succeed, I 
might afterwards try my hand at a more important and ambitious 
effort, i. e., a Dictionary of the language ; but this is so vast an 
undertaking, that at present I have little idea of trying it. The 
Dictionary of the Four Books I think I can manage, and it would 
be an important contribution towards a general dictionary. I 
have not spoken of it to any one, and do not wish to do so, as 
so many things may interfere, but I should be very glad to get all 
the assistance possible in it, even if only for my own advance- 
ment. I should like to get the translations published at Paris 
and Berlin. I do not know where the money is to come from for 
all these, but if you can manage to get them for me, or for the 
mission, all the same, I should be very glad. I hope you will not 
say 1 am engaged in any such work, for I am not yet so commit- 
ted to it that I feel myself bound to continue it, even to myself ; 
and if I did commence it, I would not want it known, till I was 
in a situation not to fear the reproach of beginning without count- 
ing the cost. 

I have been a good deal encouraged of late in my hopes of 
learning the language, and if God spares my life, and gives me 
health, I think there is a reasonable prospect of my becoming a 
tolerably thorough scholar. My early education, for which, under 
God, I am most indebted to you, gives me some qualifications for 
it, which, I trust it is not vanity alone tells me, are not possessed 

by all those who have gone before me to this field 

Ever your affectionate son, W. M. Lowrie. 



Ningpo, December 9th, 1846. 
James Lenox, Esq. — 

My Dear Sir :— Your letter of April 20th has been lying by 
me for some three months, a longer period than usually elapses 
before I answer letters ; but my time has been much occupied 
with writing appointed me by the mission, and with the prepara- 
tion of my weekly Chinese discourses, which take much of the 
time that I once gave to correspondents. 

I am exceedingly obliged for your kindness in regard to the 
books. On several occasions we have been very glad to have 
some at hand ; and I have no doubt they have been a means of 
doing good, by being put in the hands of persons who would other- 
wise have had few or no religious books near them. 



LETTERS. 371 

I do not think the books for the blind would be of service here. 
They are, of course, in the English language, and it could hardly 
be considered a profitable employment for us to turn from the 
multitudes around us, and spend time in teaching a few blind 
persons to read a strange language. One or two at each station, 
as a curiosity, and to show the Chinese the comprehensive benev- 
olence of Christian society, which regards even the dumb and the 
blind, would doubtless be interesting. My teacher was exceed- 
ingly astonished the other day, when I showed him a hymn for 
the blind, which I happened to have, in raised letters. The idea 
had never Occurred to him before. I fear it would be impossible 
to adapt it to the Chinese language. Even with " the skin burnt 
off," the fingers could not appreciate the fine lines of our many 
thousands of characters. They are trying enough even to the 
eyes. 

I have been trying to teach my teacher lessons in music, partly 
with a view of finding thereby what are their ideas of music ; but the 
experiment has not been very successful, partly, no doubt, because 
I know so little of music myself. I wish, (when will wishes end ?) 
that we had some missionaries here, who were adepts in musical 
composition, to study the nature of Chinese music, improve it, and 
compose tunes suited to Chinese poetry. It seems to me rather 
incongruous to tack Ortonville, Old Hundred, &c, tunes composed 
for English words, to Chinese poetry. In Luther's judgment, 
music composed for Latin poems was unsuited to German verse ; 
and if so, foreign music must be still more unfit for Chinese verse. 
But I feel at present comparatively little interest in singing Chi- 
nese poetry, from the fact that it is so utterly unintelligible to the 
mass of the people. This language, I mean as written, is one of 
the greatest possible barriers to the spread of the gospel here. I 
may be mistaken, but to me the conclusion seems irresistible, that 
till a change as great as that which came over the languages of 
Europe at the Reformation, comes over this language, it will be 
unfit for the extensive dissemination of truth among the mass of 
the people ; — I mean, of course, the written language. We can 
now preach the gospel in the spoken language ; but the spoken 
language is not a written language ; and thus, as far as the mass 
of the people are concerned, we have no means of reaching them, 
except by the living preacher, or such of their own educated peo- 
ple as may feel interest enough in our books to explain them to 
the people. Why not write the spoken language ? It may be 
done, but not in a day, nor in a year. I hope to see a beginning 
made in my day, but it must come gradually, and against strong 
opposition and contempt from the literati of the country. We 
think of preparing some books, or rather sheet tracts, in the col- 
loquial language of this province ; and, as a means of making 
them attractive, in spite of the contempt of the people for what 
seems to them so low, we want to have them illustrated with pic- 
tures. Pictures are like the corks which hold a man up in the 



372 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

water oftentimes ; at least, many a book is read at home for the 
sake of the pictures, and there is no reason why it should not be 
so here ; and we shall soon make an apr lication to the Committee 
to send us out a good supply of the pictures of birds, beasts, uten- 
sils, and various figures, prepared by type-founders, which are pre- 
cisely what we want ; and I feel disposed to speak for your vote 
in the Committee beforehand. Some might laugh at the idea of 
sending such things to a mission-station ; but really, a picture of 
a steamboat, or railroad car, with a suitable description, or pictures 
of the costumes and customs of different countries, with short ac- 
counts of them, would do more to arouse a spirit of inquiry, and 
awaken the dormant mind of this people, than a person at home, 
accustomed from infancy to such things, could well imagine. 
Such a book as the New England Primer, well translated into the 
colloquial dialects of this country, and with good pictures, would 
be a national blessing. The book would be eagerly taken and 
read for the sake of the pictures. It may be said, this is treating 
the Chinese like children ; but the fact is, the wisest of them are 
ignorant of things which every child knows at home ; and amidst 
all the diversity of talents which we require, and can employ here, 
scarcely any is better than aptness to be an " instructor of babes." 
.... Much as the return of missionaries is deplored by our 
friends at home, it can hardly be felt by you so much as it is by 
us ; its effects here are almost always more sensibly felt than at. 
home. Our little number diminished, men of experience taken 
away, the remaining parties discouraged ; the heathen, judging 
from one, that all are equally uncertain to remain, and hence feel- 
ing less interest in us ; are only a part of the difficulties. But has 
the question ever been fairly studied and looked at, at home? It 
is felt that something is wrong, but who knows where to lay the 
blame ? or where to apply the remedy ? A thought has often oc- 
curred to me, which yet I feel some delicacy in expressing. The 
difficulty, or one difficulty is, that the Church expects of the mis- 
sionary what the mass of church-members would not do them- 
selves. Now it is hard for the stream to rise higher than the foun- 
tain ; and missionaries generally possess very little, if any more 
piety than Christians at home. It does seem unreasonable for 
those who stay at home, and know comparatively little of the 
pains of separation from friends, of loneliness and isolation among 
the heathen, to say to their missionaries, " Good brethren, go ; 
and the blessing of God go with you. We will support you, and 
pray for you, (?) and think of you, and read your letters ; — but 
do not come back here. If you do, it must be at the risk of los- 
ing much of your influence, and being thought to be tired of your 
work, and you had better not come." Doubtless, many of the 
best friends of missions would be far from using such language. 
and yet if I am not mistaken, it is the feeling of the mass. It 
is a serious question whether those who use such language, or 
feel such sentiments, are entitled to use it ; or whether they should 



LETTERS. 373 

not, first, pluck out the beam before they spy the mote. Now it 
strikes me that it would be better to say, " Go brethren, and labor 
faithfully, and as long as you cau. We will do our part. We do 
not expect, and we do not wish you, to forget your father land. 
You have the feelings of men and women, of sons and daughters, 
and it is natural and right, that you should at times long for 
Christian intercourse with the great congregation, and the family 
fireside. Should these feelings become strong in you, we shall 
not interfere with your once more visiting your aged parents ; but 
shall welcome you among your friends, and endeavor to fit you 
to go forth again with renewed vigor to your work. Only re- 
member you are the Lord's, and may not needlessly or extrava- 
gantly use his time, even for objects so sacred, as cultivating the 
kindlier feelings of your hearts." Some such language as this, 
expresses the feeling I would like to see among the churches. My 
meaning is, that it ought to be understood and allowed, and in 
many cases approved, that a missionary, after a certain time, 
should have the right to return home on a visit. The Church 
ought not to require exile, as many seem disposed to do. I am 
satisfied that to have it understood on all hands, that a man had 
a right to see once more, those whom he cannot but long to see. 
would have no tendency to increase the number of returns home. 
It would make most men and women better contented to stay and 
labor ten years, if they felt that at the end of that time there 
would be no obstacle to a visit home if desired. And a person 
who had spent ten years in heathen land, would not, after that, 
want to leave it finally, if he had the smallest portion of true 
missionary spirit. If he did, it would probably be better that he 
should. It seems to me, that the prospect of a cheerful visit home 
would encourage many a man to labor on, and to form his plans 
for life here, who might be appalled by the idea of a lifetime, unre- 
lieved by any such prospect ; nor do I see how the mass of Chris- 
tians can object to this, without either condemning themselves for 
their own want of self-denial, or else requiring of their missionaries 
to renounce many of the finest feelings of their nature. 

In the English army in India, the officers are allowed after ten 
years' service,' three years' furlough ; and after twenty years, to 
retire finally. I should be sorry to see the latter regulation ap- 
plied to our warfare ; but at present it strikes me, that the priv- 
ilege of a visit home, after every ten years of service, for a much 
less period than three years, would be a saving both of men and 
money in the missionary cause. There are some who would not 
embrace it; most persons probably would. It would make their 
first ten years pass more pleasantly away, and it would revive 
them bodily, and mentally, and spiritually, for the next ten years ; 
and at the end of twenty years, if they wanted to leave the mis- 
sionary field it would probably be for sufficient reasons. . . . 

Believe me, my dear sir, very truly yours, in Christian bonds, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



374 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

Ningjio, December 31st, 1846. 
My Dear Father — 

I have been writing my weekly Chinese sermon this evening ; 
and after writing rather more than half, finding that I had still 
a spare hour before bed-time, I thought I could not do better than 
spend it in a letter to yourself. I write a sermon in Chinese every 
week ; about eight pages ; not so large as a letter-paper sheet. 
This I look over several times, especially on Sunday ; put up a 
notice on my doors, that in the afternoon there will be preaching ; 
and open my doors shortly after dinner — say at half-past two. One 
of my servants, or my teacher, stands at the door and invites pass- 
ers-by to come in. The great difficulty is to get an audience to 
begin with. My house is in a part of the city where there are not 
many respectable residents near, but it is on a thoroughfare, with 
many passers-by, and with any attraction there is no difficulty in 
getting people to stop. I commonly commence as soon as there 
are five or six present, and if the weather be at all fair, I am pretty 
sure in five or ten minutes to have from fifteen to forty persons. 
My discourses are extempore, i. e., I read my written sermon care- 
fully, and then leaving it in my desk, go down stairs, and, as the 
Scotch say, " overtake" as much of it as I can. It commonly 
takes me twenty minutes to get through, but this is a strange 
tongue, and to an audience not very attentive, is as fatiguing as a 
sermon forty or fifty minutes long would be in a small church at 
home. By the time 1 am done, it has several times happened that 
the house and verandah were quite full ; and as people, seeing a 
crowd, still keep coming in, I have several times, after giving 
away a few books, and talking a little separately to a few persons, 
got up and preached the same discourse right over to an entirely 
new audience. In this way I have the opportunity of preaching 
to from fifty to a hundred persons every Sabbath, and I expect 
generally to adopt this course. After the discourse is over, I offer 
a short prayer, all standing. As to my own fluency, perhaps the 
less said the better ; but I find these services, both in preparation 
and in delivery, are not so appalling or difficult, as were my first 
efforts at preaching at home ; and this very polite people compli- 
ment me exceedingly on speaking the language so well. It is not 
at all uncommon to hear them say, " Why he speaks our language 
with a full mouth ! How can a foreigner learn to speak it so 
well? Why, a Fuhkeen man would not speak so well in ten 
years," (fee. I think there can be no doubt that, difficult as this 
dialect is, it is one of the easiest in China ; and were I less of a 
recluse, or fonder of company, I might soon be a fluent speaker. 
Dr. McCartee, who has more freedom of tongue than I have, talks 
like a native, and has a command of words quite unexampled in 
a person who has been so short a time in China. 

We are all talking of building now, but as yet no one has got 
a place to build on. We find the present plan is Poo chung — 



LETTERS. 375 

" does not meet our wishes," as the Chinese say. The houses do 
very well for a while, but they want so many repairs, and the rent 
and repairs come to so much, that we begin to think building with 
all its troubles better than renting. 

The members of the mission are all in very good health. 1 
know of nothing of special interest among us. I am ordered by 
the mission to write for a second printing press ; but as the letter 
will go overland, I suppose you will get it before this. 

What is to be done about procuring Chinese books? I am now 
beginning to be able to use a Chinese book, and want a library. 
I have already two hundred volumes, (Chinese,) but my pocket is 
empty now. Is there any appropriation for books ? Hitherto I 

have paid for all mine out of the money Mr. gave me, or 

what I could save out of my own salary. But the former sum 
was used up long ago, in buying elementary books, and a set of 
the Chinese Repository, and I have now used up all of my salary 
I can spare for the present year. To be sure, I shall not read all 
I have got for many a year, but I shall want to refer to most of 
them, and to others too, very soon. A good mission library would 
obviate the necessity for any member of the mission buying a 
number of works that would be contained in it; but there are 
others which each person should have for himself. Hitherto none 
of the books I have bought have been paid out of the mission 
funds, and I should prefer not to get any with the mission money 
if I can avoid it. 

I still keep at preparing a dictionary of the Four Books, spend- 
ing two or three hours every day at it. It is a very pleasant recre- 
ation, and I find it one of the best modes for getting accurate ideas 
of the sense of characters, so that it will be time well spent, if never 
a line sees the light. I thought at first that there were about 
two thousand five hundred characters in the Four Books, but on 
counting, as I have made out a list, I find there are about two 
thousand two hundred and fifty. I have already noted down one 
or more, sometimes eight or ten, significations to about one thou- 
sand two hundred of them. But this is not the half, nor the hard- 
est part of the work. I think, -however, if I go on as I have 
begun, that I may get all the significations noted down in four or 
five months more ; and then eight months' moderate work would 
bring it into a state fit to see the light. Since writing to you at 
first, however, I have thought of extending it so as to include the 
Shoo-king and She-king, or Book of Records and Book of Odes. 
This would increase the number of characters to about three thou- 
sand five hundred. My plan would include pretty full biograph- 
ical and historical notices of China, from the days of Yaou and 
Shun to those of Mencius, say from B. C. 2100 to B. C. 300, and 
would make a large quarto volume. 

If the work were well done, it would be invaluable. If even 
moderately well done, it would be of much utility. I have no idea 
that I could do it well, and doubt whether I could do it moderately 



376 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

well. The actual expense of printing and binding five hundred 
copies would be under a thousand dollars. After the first hundred 
were sold, say at six to eight dollars a volume, it would have but a 
slow sale. I would cheerfully make it over to the Mission or the 
Board, if they would undertake the expense of publication. The 
estimates alone are mere guesswork, as I have not yet made suf- 
ficient progress to encourage me to think of looking seriously to 
publication, nor would I trouble you with these accounts now, 
were it not that by the time I can hear from you, I shall want to 
know a little what your views are. I shall probably know defi- 
nitely whether I shall be able to do anything or not ; and if then 
I feel disposed to continue, a good deal will depend on the proba- 
bilities of getting it published. The Shoo-King, She-King, and 
Four Books, are pretty complete ; and no other books would give 
so full an account of ancient China, and the beginnings of many 
customs and modes of speech that are common now. At present 
there is no dictionary with which one could read even the Four 
Books satisfactorily, and much less the Shoo-King, and She-King. 
In saying this I make no exception, even for Morrison, much less 

for M , who, though doubtless the best acquainted with 

Chinese of any of the foreign sinologues, is not a very satisfactory 
authority for philological purposes. 

December 4. I do not know when this letter will get off, but I 
must finish it to-night. My teacher was away all day, so I had 
to study by myself. Spent the time principally at my dictionary, 
and noted sixty-five new words, besides additional meanings to as 
many more. This was a great day's work, for I seldom give 
more than two hours a day, and in that time can note only from 
ten to twenty new words. A visit across the river, airing and put- 
ting up my Chinese books, and finishing my Chinese sermon, have 
occupied the rest of the day. . . 

I suppose the new brethren have arrived in Canton before now. 
A letter from Mr. Morse informed me of his having heard of their 
sailing in the Grafton in July. . . 

Your affectionate son, 

W, M. Lowrie. 



Ning-po, September 13th, 1846. 
To the Rev. John Lloyd : — 

Dear Brother John : — You will judge from the date of this 
letter (Sabbath evening,) that it is not to be about everything 
under the sun. I do not know how it strikes every person, but 
occasionally I like to spend a part of the Sabbath evening in Chris- 
tian conversation with an absent friend, and I do not know that 
it is more improper to converse with pen and ink, than by word 
of mouth. . . . Your note of July 1, inclosing a letter from J. M. L., 
came two days ago, and your note of Aug. 27, reached me this 
morning. ... In several notes you have spoken of a wish to be 



LETTERS. 377 

near me. I heartily wish it could be so, but I fear you would 
find only a very weak and bruised reed to lean on. if you ex- 
pected any good from me. You would not expect much if you 
knew me better. God is showing me of late in a very painful way 
that in myself I am nothing, — can do nothing, and am utterly 
sinful and vile ; and the way he shows it is by leaving me to my- 
self, to walk on in my Christian course, and to do my duties with- 
out any sensible support of his grace; and the consequence is, 
that I am very low. Oh, how many bitter things I write against 
myself; but the worst is, my utter deadness — no life or delight in 
prayer, the Scriptures, or meditation. What dreadful things 
these hearts of ours are ! It amazes me to think that God can be 
gracious to people naturally so vile, and who sin so grievously 
after conversion. I preached a week ago on the prodigal son's 
departing from his father's house. I felt the subject a good deal 
myself, and several of the little audience were in tears; but alas, I 
do not seem to have "come back" yet. To-day was our commu- 
nion, but I found little or no benefit. There has been much 
strangeness between God and my soul for many months past, and 
often a great reluctance to close and faithful dealing with myself. 
So dead that I have lost the savor of spiritual things, and the per- 
ception of the beauties of the Bible, and seldom draw nigh unto 
God. I seem to satisfy myself with very faint services. Oh to be 
revived ! and yet this lazy heart would be revived without effort 
on my own part. Awake, thou that sleepest ! Alas ! I am so 
soon wearied in my efforts. Like the little flying-fish, but a mo- 
ment up, and then back in the troubled waters of this heaving, rest- 
less world. Oh Lord God, give me wings, and enable me to breathe 
the pure and spiritual atmosphere of heaven. I find myself by 
nature diseased by sin, which, like the lepros}', affects my whole 
frame. Yea, " the plague is in his head." Yea, the " whole 
head is sick, and the whole heart faint ;" and thus I neither prop- 
erly appreciate, nor comprehend spiritual things, nor feel them 
aright ; therefore I am unclean, separated from the society of the 
holy, dwelling without the precincts where the people of God's 
love are. How deep should be my sorrow, and self-loathing, and 
abasement! and how should I come to him whose word can 
cleanse. — Lev. xiii. 44-46. 

But I trust I am one of God's people, and yet even this is but 
renewed reason for humiliation. " My people have committed 
two evils." " Forsaken God, the fountain of living waters ;" what 
greater despite, contempt, unbelief, and sin, than this ? And 
" hewn out broken cisterns which can hold no water." How true 
is this ! It is so with me. Made for God ; heart disquieted till 
it rests in him ; and yet unwilling to come to him ; and on the 
contrary, seeking rest in creatures ,! Well may heaven and earth 
be astonished at this ! — Jer. ii. 12, 13. 

I trust I have not wholly forsaken God's service, but there is 
small comfort in this. It has been with but half a heart that I 



378 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

have served him. I have sought happiness in my study, books, 
correspondence, business, friends ; and with a half heart to them 
and a half heart to God, how miserably have I gone on ! Oh 
Lord, unite my heart to fear thy name ! Psalm lxxxvi. 11. It is 
impossible to serve God if the whole heart be not his. If with 
a half heart, then as good none at all. Thus with my half heart 
I have fallen asleep, and am become dead. Oh let me now 
awake, and arise from the dead, and may he who is the light of 
the world give me light. Eph. v. 14. None but he can do it. 
Blessed Jesus, raise me to thyself, and shine into my heart with 
the light of the knowledge of the glory of God, of which I now 
know so little. 2 Cor. iv. 6. Let me rise with thee, and being risen, 
let me seek those things which are above where thou sittest, Col. 
iii. 1. I have too often forgotten that he who is risen with Christ, 
must still seek and labor. Oh let me forget it no more, and thus 
laboring and believing, praying and trusting, I beseech thee show 
me thy glory, Exod. xxxiii. 18 ; xxxiv. 6, 7. 

You will ask, why do I live thus ? Because, I am " sold under 
sin," and " the good I would I do not." I know I ought to do it, 
and am guilty for not doing it. " Oh, wretched man that 1 am, 
who shall deliver me from this body of death V Jesus Christ our 
head? Yes, but there is the worst of it. Like the prodigal de- 
parting from his father, I have gone away from Christ, and there- 
fore have no life. Pray for me. I will continue this strain no 
longer. 

We have much reason for gratitude in not being left entirely 
destitute of a blessing here. As many as three persons have hope- 
fully experienced a change of heart here during the past year. 
One of these is Azin, Miss Aldersey's Chinese servant, a native of 
this place, who was baptized to-day. He has been inquiring for 
nearly a year, and after a very satisfactory examination, was re- 
ceived by the Session into the Church. God be praised for this ! 
Oh for more ! There are others who sometimes give us hopes, 
but we are often grievously disappointed. My servant seems to 
be somewhat serious, but I dare not hope that any real impression 
has been made on his mind. I think my teacher thinks more 
than he is willing to admit, but I have as yet no hopes of him. 
What a dreadful thing a backwardness to speak on religious topics 
is ! There is no one thing that has troubled me in all my inter- 
course so much as this. No duty I find so hard to perform, or 
which I oftener fail in attending to. Nothing has caused me to 
doubt my piety so much as this one thing, and now I almost de- 
spair of ever overcoming it. " Out of the abundance of the heart 
the mouth speaketh," but if I am judged by this rule, I shall stand 
very low. I am glad others are not so deficient in it as I am. 

Monday, 14th. Your summer has been very cool, and ours ex- 
cessively hot. Such hot weather, and so long, I have never 
known. After having the thermometer up to 98° and 100° every 
day for six weeks, it was quite a luxury to find it rising no higher 



LETTERS. 379 

than 88° and 90°. It is now, however, and has been for three 
weeks, very pleasant, and has been down as low as 74° at night, 
now generally below 80° at night, and even at the warmest there 
was always a fall of 10° to 15° at night. I do not think we could 
have lived through it if it had not been for this. 

Walsh, at Mynpurie, speaks of 122° in the san, as very hot. 
We have had it much higher than that in the sun here ; but in 
India the hot weather lasts much longer than it does here. 

Why do we never see your lucubrations in the Chronicle, or 
Foreign Missionary? A man who holds as ready a pen as you 
do, is bound to let it speak fro bono publico. Tell Brother Brown 
I am very glad he has commenced at the right end, and I hope he 
will keep on. 

I am engaged of late in preparing a report on the word to be 
used in speaking the name of God. We are pretty unanimous 
here in disapproving of the word Shang-te, as it is perpetually con- 
founded with the Chinese idol of the same name. I believe we 
are all in favor of Shin, and I have been quite surprised at the 
amount of authority, I mean from the Chinese classics, in favor 
of its use. What words do you use ? and how do they take with 
the people ? I would like much to hear what your custom is. 

When you write for the Chronicle, I mean you and Brown 
both, would it not be well to spell Chinese words after the 
Mandarin fashion, and Morrison's spelling? Part of Brown's 
letter in the April Chronicle is Greek to me. Who is Giam lo 
ongl I suppose the first word is intended for Yen in Mandarin, 
and the last for Wang. But I cannot make out the lo, and as for 
the hok-sai, I have no idea what it is, unless it be Fuh-sze. Our 
dialect comes much nearer the Mandarin than yours, but most of 
us prefer, in writing for the Chronicle, &c, to use the pure Manda- 
rin, which all who study the characters are supposed to know a 
little about, even though they cannot, speak it. I must close this 
scrawl. You do not expect good penmanship from me, but I wish 
for the sake of your eyes that it was better. Give much love to 
Brown, for I take it you and he are pretty much one, and I do not 
write to him, for nearly all I would say to him I say to you. 

Believe me, ever yours, in the gospel and ministry of Christ, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ningjjo, December 31st, 1846. 
Rev. John C. Lowrie — 

My Dear Brother : — Your truly welcome letter of June 22d, 
came to hand to-day. I know not why it was so long on the road. 
A letter from another person in New York, written on the same 
day, reached me six weeks ago. But we have to submit to some 
inconvenience up here about our correspondence. 



380 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

By God's grace I am preaching, though it be with stammering 
lips, and my prospects of mastering the language are now so fair 
that I would be very unwilling to leave this mission. I am, 
therefore, satisfied and anxious to remain ; and my present feel- 
ing, which indeed has almost always been my feeling, is not to 
leave unless the Committee, who took the responsibility of sending 
me to China, will take the responsibility of sending me away. I 
am glad and happy to be here. It is true I am lonely, sometimes 
very lonely, but this loneliness is appointed to me by Him who 
knows better than I do what is best for me. I have not sought it, 
nor run into it rashly, and in due season it will be diminished ; or 
if not, then it is best that it be so, and I will, if not gladly, at least 
resignedly, or if not resignedly, at least praying to be resigned, 
confess myself a stranger and a pilgrim on the earth. 

The clock strikes twelve, p. m., and 1847 has begun. ' I have 
disobeyed your injunction ; but, in the first place, it is very seldom 
that this happens. I am almost always in bed before eleven. 
Second, I was anxious to write as much of this letter as possible, 
for it must be closed to-morrow or next day. 1 must confess I did 
not mean to spin it out so long. Third, I do not disapprove of see- 
ing the New Year in, and commencing it with prayer. I wish 
you, and yours, a happy New Year. 

I am always interested in the accounts of your church, and pray 
for a blessing on it. If you are ever " disheartened" with any 
among the people you have to deal with, just fancy what kind of 
congregations I have. I will try and give you a peep at one, some 
of these days, and you will not dare to say a word after that. That 
leads me to ask, how much egotism is allowable occasionally 
in articles for the Chronicle? I could write an article now, on 
preaching to a heathen audience, which might surprise and edify 
some of your hearers, and give them juster views of the real 
nature of missionary work, than fifty Tabernacle speeches. I am 
not boasting, for I grieve over a vast many speeches about mis- 
sions that are published ; they are well meant, but all wrong. 
But to give such an article, I must enter into my own feelings 
pretty deeply, and write just as I would talk to you, or any other 
dear friend, and the little pronoun "I" must come forward pretty 
often. This is rather hazardous; some really humble men, like 
Brother Sawyer, could do it very well; but there are very few who 
can do it. Yet really, as far as I can see, such relations of one's 
own experience are among the most interesting and profitable 
articles; for many a man, if he has only the right spirit, may 
write an article of that kind well, who, if he attempted to write an 
edifying article on general principles, would soon become very 
dull. . . . 

Your affectionate brother, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



JOURNAL AT NINGPO. 3S1 

June 11th. There has been some talk of poisoning of late in a 
district about a hundred miles from Ningpo, and some placards 
have been sent here and pasted up in conspicuous places, warn* 
ing the people not to take up articles of food that may be found 
in the streets, lest they should contain poison. To-day my ser- 
vant came in great trepidation, and said he had heard people say 
that a man in the city, having eaten a cake, became suddenly 
ill, and his body becoming black all over, he soon died. This 
has aroused suspicion that the poisoners are abroad here. In 
consequence of this, some persons have had a large number of 
the above mentioned placards printed off here and distributed 
about. This is considered a very meritorious act, though almost 
the only effect it can have, will be to create a panic terror among 
the people. 

June 12th. The talk of poisoning is more general than ever ; 
and a man having been taken sick after eating a cake bought in 
a shop, the shopkeeper was taken before the mayor of the city, 
and sentenced to be beaten with forty strokes of the bamboo. 
This was chiefly to pacify the people, for many say that even if 
the cake was the cause of the sickness, there is no proof that it 
was not left in the shop by some evil-minded person without the 
knowledge of the shopman. Among a multitude of reports that 
are flying about, for the people are fairly panic-stricken, is one 
which says that about one hundred persons have lost their lives 
in Seaou-shan, and another, that a Buddhist priest there being de- 
tected, or at least suspected of being concerned in the nefarious 
business, was seized by the people, and on examination was found 
to have cakes and rolls, and drugs of various kinds concealed 
about his person. In all probability the whole affair is a panic. 

The summer of 1846 is likely to be long memorable in Ningpo, 
on account of the many calamities, some real and some imaginary, 
with which it was accompanied. The year has been fruitful in 
terrors, and some were so wide-spread that it was impossible to 
collect all the facts, or a tenth part of the reports concerning them. 
Some of us heard one set of stories, and some another, and even 
contradictory statements, which must account for some of the dis- 
crepancies between the following sketch and some others that you 
may have seen. 

The month of April was distinguished by a season of unusually 
rainy weather. There were but one or two fair days in the whole 
month, and most of the time the rain fell in torrents. It is in the 
month of April that the rice is /ransplanted, and though some rain 
is required for this purpose, a superabundance is a great evil, 
which was the case this year. In consequence of the rain the 
officers of the city, about the middle of the month, appointed sacri- 
fices, and, by way of further propitiation, ordered that for the 
space of seven days no swine should be slaughtered for food. 
This is called the Kintoo, or prohibition of slaughtering, and is 
frequently resorted to in times of distress. But their miserable 



382 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE 

idols did not hear their prayers, and, as a last resort, about the 
end of the month, some of them were put out in the rain ! The 
rain ceased soon after this, and the people continued mad on 
their idols. 

During- the month of May but little rain fell, and the weather 
became rather warm, though not oppressively so. The summer 
of 1845 had been so mild and pleasant that we did not think of 
the weather becoming - unusually hot this year. But the months 
of June, July, and August, were dreadfully hot. None of us had 
before experienced such long-continued hot weather. During the 
three years that I was in Macao, although that place is eight de- 
grees farther south than this, and in the torrid zone, the thermom- 
eter never rose so high as it did here day after day. 

From the experience of the past summer, we have been com- 
pletely convinced that good houses are indispensable to health in 
this climate. We are at present all living in Chinese houses, 
which are not made for constitutions like ours. The low rooms 
and thin roofs and walls, are miserable defences against the heat 
of such burning suns. It is true we are not likely to have many 
summers so hot as the past, for even the natives spoke of it as 
"extraordinarily hot;" but we shall have them occasionally, and 
houses built under our own inspection, might be so arranged as 
to diminish much of their oppressiveness. 

Next, added to the oppressiveness of the heat, was the fearful 
drought. I have spoken of the abundant rains of April. They 
were followed by a four months' drought which, like Pharaoh's 
lean kine, devoured up every remembrance of the preceding rains. 
During the months of May, June, July, and August, but one copi- 
ous shower fell ; and most of the time the heavens over us were 
as brass, and the earth as powder and dust beneath our feet. 
Clouds sometimes sailed over our heads, or gathered on the hills 
around the city, and sometimes the thunder and a few drops of 
rain excited our hopes, but they passed away again, and more 
than once I have heard natives of the place say, as they saw them 
disappear : Teen 'pith knng lo yu, — " Heaven is unwilling to drop 
rain." Vegetation suffered exceedingly. The deepest canals 
were drained dry in the vain attempt to supply the wants of the 
glowing rice crops. The canals being dry, the internal navigation 
of the country was in great measure stopped. Deep anxiety sat 
on many faces. Public processions were appointed in honor of 
the gods, and the officers of the city, on two or three separate oc- 
casions issued the Kin-too, which was at last observed so rigidly, 
that for nearly a month a pound of pork could be obtained only 
by stealth and previous arrangement. 

" When shall we have rain 1 It assumes a very serious aspect, 
now that for so long a time we have had none. 

As if the real evils of the heat and drought were not enough, 
the people added others from their own folly and superstitions. I 
have already spoken of the alarm caused by the report of poison- 



JOURNAL AT NINGPO. 3S3 

ers. This foolish story gradually died away during the month of 
July, but was succeeded by another equally appalling, of which 
the following extracts, entered in my journal at the time, will give 
some account : 

August 1, 1846. There has been no little excitement here for 
a few days past, on account of a supposed visitation of evil spirits. 
It seems that some persons living in the main street were awa- 
kened a few nights ago by a great noise, as though a large body 
of disorderly men were marching and carousing through the 
streets. On looking out, however, nobody was seen, and the con- 
clusion drawn was that the noise had been caused by chejin, pa- 
per men.* The story spread, and it was speedily reported that 
there were three thousand evil spirits, that they had been to Yu- 
yaou and Funghwa, and have now come here, and will soon visit 
Chinhai and Chusan. Of course they can have come for no good 
purpose, and to drive them away, gongs and drums have been 
beaten and crackers fired for several nights, filling the air with a 
deafening noise for hours together. This has caused a great de- 
mand for gongs, and it is said that the gong shops in the city have 
disposed of nearly all they had on hand. In default of gongs, 
brass kettles are supposed to be nearby as efficacious. Strips of 
yellow paper with four mystical characters, whose sound and sig- 
nification no one pretends to know, have been sold by myriads, 
and pasted up over every door and window, hoping to prevent the 
entrance of the evil spirits. 

The reason for beating the gongs is thus explained : There 
are two great principles called the Yang and the Yin, under which 
all substances material or immaterial are supposed to be arranged. 
These two are in perpetual opposition, and if either one of them 
attains too much ascendency, great confusion is the inevitable re- 
sult. It so happens that the evil spirits which cause all the 
present disturbance belong to the Yin principle, while the sound 
of brass vessels belongs to the Yang. By beating the brass ves- 
sels the Yang principle will be enabled to resist the too great 
ascendency of the Yin, which is shown in the present incursion 
of evil spirits, and thus it is hoped order will be again restored. 

* These paper men seem to hold the same position in the superstitions of China that 
the '• familiar spirits," held in the times of the Old Testament, or the "evil spirits," un- 
der the control of conjurers and witches of our own and other Christian lands. In the 
History of the Three States, which is probably the most popular book of light reading 
in the Chinese language, is the following notice of them: '• When the battle began 
Chang-paou commenced his magical arts, whereupon arose a great tempest of wind 
and thunder; the dust flew about; the stones rolled over; a black cloud overspread 
the heavens, and, as it revolved, men and horses came down from above. Thereupon, 
at a convenient place. Heuenteh gave the signal, and his men poured out the mixture 
of the blood of swine, sheep and dogs, previously prepared. By doing this the power 
of the magic spell was broken, and nothing was seen in the heavens except paper men 
and straw horses rapidly falling. The wind and thunder ceased to sound, the sand 
and stones became quiet again, and Chang-paou seeing his schemes confounded, 
turned his head to flee, and his followers were defeated with prodigious slaughter." In 
the colloquial dialect of Ningpo, chejin is changed into tsz' ane, and may be expressed 
in English either by witches or evil spirits. 



384 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

Great excitement prevails in the city, and all the higher officers 
are going in state to the temples, to pray that the evil spirits may 
be driven away. 

August 3d. We were aroused shortly after three o'clock, a. m., 
by an earthquake. Having been sound asleep, it was some 
moments before I became aware of the real cause of the disturb- 
ance. There was a dull heavy roaring in the air, coming from 
the north gate of the city, and the roof of the house moved as if 
being gradually lifted off by a strong wind. Thinking it was a 
strong wind, I was about to get up and close the windows, when 
I perceived that the bed and the whole house were moving from 
end to end. Jumping up, and going to the window, I observed 
that the motion still continued, and being now sensible of what 
it was, and fearing lest the house should fall, I ran down stairs 
and out of doors, and called to my people, who were all awake, 
to come out. The motion, however, had ceased before I got out. 
All this took up probably less than a minute, though how long 
the shock might have lasted before I was awaked, I do not know. 
The consternation that prevailed in the city was indescribable. 
Owing to the rumors and panic caused by the fear of the evil 
spirits, many people have been sitting up for several nights past, 
and when the shock came it was so violent that even the sleepers 
were awakened, and the universal idea was that the evil spirits 
were coming to take the city by storm. The inmates of the house 
next door to mine set up a terrific shriek, and in an instant the 
whole city with its quarter of a million of inhabitants, rang with 
the beating of gongs, the firing of rockets and crackers, and the 
shouts and crying of men in terror. To increase the alarm a 
bright falling star shot from the zenith to the north, leaving a long 
train of light behind it, and to many terrified imaginations it 
doubtless seemed as if the Yin and Yang principles were wrapped 
in endless confusion, and heaven and earth about to end. The 
noise and beating of gongs continued so long and loud that it was 
impossible to distinguish any other sounds. I regretted this, for 
once or twice I fancied there was the same dull, heavy roar that 
struck me on first awaking, and the Chinese, thinking it was the 
shouting of the evil spirits, cried out, " There they are ! They 
are coming !" It may have been, however, only the blended 
sounds of rockets and gongs, and the cries of men in terror, as 
they rose over the night air. It was with difficulty I could pre- 
vent even my own servants from joining in the uproar, and one 
of them asked me, with a trembling voice, " Teacher, is this the 
evil spirit's coming?" Many cried like children when in fits of 
the extremest terror. It was a solemn thought to think : if such 
the terror occasioned by a single shock of an earthquake, what 
will it be when the heavens and the earth shall pass away with a 
great noise ? 

August 9th. In consequence of the earthquake, and especially 
the strange sounds accompanying it, the belief in the presence of 



JOURNAL AT NINGPO. 3S5 

evil spirits has taken a still firmer hold on the mind of the people. 
Multitudes of them have prepared green branches of trees, sup- 
posing they would be of use in warding off the invisible foes, and 
the most absurd rumors are abroad as to the cause of this visita- 
tion. Many attribute their coming to the Roman Catholics, who 
are about rebuilding the chapel which they possessed here in the 
reign of Kanghe, while others attribute them to the Protestant 
missionaries. 

One of our missionaries lives in the western part of the city, 
and the people around him look with much suspicion on him, and 
on his wife. Among other things, they have it reported that 
when he and his wife walk on the wall of the city near his house, 
in the evening, they carry a bottle containing a number of these 
invisible people with them ; it is further reported, that when they 
take out the cork a number of evil spirits, of different sizes, come 
out and kneel down to receive his commands, and then, on a sig- 
nal, disperse themselves over the city. Another of our missiona- 
ries is reported to have forty-nine of the evil spirits under his con- 
trol, and some of the worthy citizens who have seen me walking 
on the wall about sunset, have reported that they saw a long 
white devil walking there. All this is very unpleasant ; the peo- 
ple are becoming excited and alarmed, and if they were at all of 
the disposition of the mobs in Canton, it would not be difficult to 
arouse them to wreak vengeance on the few defenceless foreigners 
here, whom they suppose to be the occasion of their calamities. 
One immediate effect has been, quite to break up my soirees on 
the wall. I had been in the habit, for some weeks, of sitting down 
to enjoy the cool breeze at twilight, on the w T all near my house, 
and very frequently had quite a little congregation of the people 
to talk to, and converse with on religion and general topics, but 
now, when I sit down there, not one comes near me. 

The sound of a shaken leaf terrifies them. My next door 
neighbors heard their paper windows rattling last night, and sup- 
posing the evil spirits were coming, they commenced the usual 
shrieking, shouting, and beating of gongs, much to my discomfort ; 
and there is scarcely a night in which I am not waked several 
times by the noises around. Last night and to-night are perhaps 
the crisis of the affair, for there is a report abroad, that six persons 
of particular classes, will die to-night, if they happen to fall asleep. 
In consequence of this, all belonging to those classes (such as were 
born under the influence of certain constellations) sat up all last 
night, and will sit up all this night, fearing that if they sleep, they 
will be of the number of the six that must die. 

Verily, ' gross darkness covers the people.' 

August 21. The rumors about the evil spirits have taken a 
firmer hold than ever of the people's minds, and the most ridicu- 
lous stories are in circulation. Some men have had their queues 
cut off at night — of course by the witches, and the people are be- 
c - Tiling excited. The drought still continues ; we have been, tan- 
25 



3S6 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

talized by clouds, and a drizzling mist, yesterday and to-day, but 
they are clouds without rain. The delusion about the witches 
has spread all over the province, and it is everywhere attributed 
to foreigners. Placards have even been posted up at Ningpo, say- 
ing that there will be no peace here till the foreigners are extir- 
pated. My teacher went home a few days ago, and found his 
family in the greatest distress. He had not gone home for nearly 
a month, and they thought I had either locked him up, or be- 
witched him that he could not go. When he laughed at his 
neighbors for their folly in believing in the spirits, they said, ' Oh 
yes ! you are eating the bread of the foreigners, and it is very 
well for you to say so.' One of Miss Aldersey's adopted orphan 
children died a few days ago, and the common report is that she 
murdered it. It is common here to keep the dates of people's 
births in the temples for astrological purposes. It has been re- 
ported that some foreigners have been copying these registers, and 
that all whose names are copied, will surely die. In consequence 
great numbers of the people have gone to blot their names out, 
lest the foreigners should lay schemes against their lives. 

August 22. A little rain last night and to-day supplies us with water 
to drink, and is very reviving to the crops and to the hopes of the 
people. But still there is not enough to fill the canals even partially. 

August 25. As a last resort to drive away the evil spirits, a 
procession has been got up in honor of Kwan-te, the god of war. 
Two companies of it went past my house on the wall to-day, in 
one of which the god was carried along in great state, in a chair 
upborne by eight bearers. There were dragons, lanterns, gongs, 
&c, &c., as in other processions ; firing of crackers, and guns, 
and noises of all kinds. Two or three companies of soldiers formed 
part of the procession, marching in beautiful disregard of time and 
order. The neighboring foo city of Shaou-hing having been cleared 
of evil spirits by a procession in honor of Kwan-te, the people of 
this city are induced to seek deliverance in the same manner. 
How dreadful to see them so given up to idolatry ! I was deeply 
pained as they passed my house, bearing their earthen gods, and 
performing their silly rites. Oh Lord, how long ? 

August 26. The procession is still kept up, going through 
nearly every street in the city. As the neighborhood around my 
house seems to have been particularly infested with the evil spirits, 
probably on account of my being here, a second detachment came 
past my house after eleven o'clock at night. The effect of the nu- 
merous lanterns was very pretty, but it is sad to see such worship 
paid to men. This Kwan-te nourished about sixteen hundred 
years ago. He is one of the three great heroes in the San kwo 
che, or History of the Three States, and was a native of the depart- 
ment of Shaou-hing, which borders on Ningpo. 

Nothing was heard of the evil spirits after the procession. 
The people having full confidence in the power of Kwan-te, their 
imaginations were at rest, and the evil spirits departed ! 



JOURNAL AT NINGPO. 3S7 

September 4 Rain at last ! More rain has fallen to-day than 
all that has fallen since the first of May. It is a great blessing. 
' He sendeth rain on the just and on the unjust.' 

September 5. In consequence of the rain the kin too y or pro- 
hibition of slaughtering animals for food, after being in force for 
several weeks, has been withdrawn. Images of the gods from all 
the different temples had been collected at one place, for the con- 
venience of the chief officers of the city, who went there daily to 
pray to them altogether to send rain. In consequence of the rains, 
they have now been all taken back to their respective temples. 

October 3. 'It never rains but it pours.' The long drought 
of the summer has been followed by a month of rains, nearly as 
fatal to the hopes of the husbandman. The canals are full and 
overflowing, and the fields are flooded. Withal it is cool, and it 
is now doubtful whether the crops will ripen. The first crop was 
short, and the second crop, after being withered by the drought, 
and nearly drowned by the rain, is not in a condition to come to 
maturity in the moderate and cool weather now coming on. A 
plain-looking man, in the ferry-boat, as I crossed over to-day, was 
expressing his belief that the gods pay no attention to what is done 
on the earth. l In the spring they heard not the prayers for dry 
weather. In the summer they heard not the prayers for rain. 
Now it is raining too much. I believe that heaven rains just to 
please itself.' 

In consequence of the cool weather, but a very small portion 
of the second crop of rice was worth anything. In many fields 
the farmers did not attempt to gather it. 

October 4th, 1846. To-day commenced a Chinese service in 
my house. Put up a notice at the door, inviting choo pang o/eio, 
" all the friends," to come and hear ; prepared seats for about 
forty ; and about the hour my servant went to the door and in- 
vited the passers-by to come in. Except that the words were 
spoken with a totally opposite intention, they were remarkably 
apropos. See Prov. ix. 15, 16, to call passengers who go right on 
their ways. " Whoso is simple let him turn in hither, and as for 
him that wanteth understanding," &c. Some came in with their 
burdens ; some looking half afraid ; some ran right out again ; 
some stood up ; some sat down ; some smoked their pipes ; some 
said what is the use of staying, he is a foreigner, and we do not 
understand foreign talk ; the attention was none of the best, for 
it required all my courage and presence of mind to keep going, 
and the people feeling quite free to talk and make remarks, I got 
along no better than I anticipated. I am not discouraged, though 
by no means flattered by the result of this day's experiment. 
There were some forty persons present. 

October 16th. A revolting instance of cruelty occurred opposite 
my window. A poor beggar who had only a coarse thin pair of 
trowsers, and a straw mat for his shoulders, in weather when I 
6nd woollen clothes comfortable, had by some means obtained 



388 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

eighty cash, equal to five eents, from a Chinese of this place. 
This morning the creditor came upon him for the money, and as 
he had not wherewith to pay him, began to beat him unmerci- 
fully. First, he struck him on the head and face with his fist ; 
then he caught him by the hair, and beat him on the arms ; then 
he took his queue or tail in one hand, and putting his foot on the 
poor man's back, pulled till I thought the man's hair would have 
come all out ; then he struck him again fiercely in the face ; and 
finally taking off his shoe, he began beating him on the bare 
back. The beggar all this time made no resistance, but uttered 
piteous cries, and falling down beat his head on the pavement, 
asking mercy ! Several Chinese passed, and some looked on, but 
none made any attempt to interfere. Finding the brute con- 
tinued his beating, I could stand it no longer, and going down, I 
laid my stick on his back not very gently. He looked up in some 
surprise, and seemed half enraged and half frightened, to find a 
foreigner interfering. I asked him what he meant, and why he 
beat the beggar so ? He sputtered out some words, but began to 
edge off, as if he would like to be away ; so I told him to clear 
out, and gave him another blow with my stick. I had half a 
notion to break it over his back. He seemed glad to get off so 
well, and went away in a hurry. The poor beggar's gratitude 
was inexpressible. He lay down, beat his head on the ground, 
and between his sobs and tears and bleeding face, let me know 
how much he was obliged to me. I gave him a few cash, and 
one of my servants, who seemed much interested, gave him an 
old garment. Quite a crowd had come around us, who seemed 
quite pleased at the turn affairs had taken. 

October 18th. A larger and better audience than I have yet 
had and very attentive. Oh, for a blessing ! Otherwise it is only 
speaking to dry bones. One young man among others who stayed 
after the service, was anxious to defend himself from the charge 
of the folly of idolatry, and declared the monks and nuns were a 
great nuisance ; that he thought the monks had better marry the 
nuns, let their hair grow, destroy the temples, and follow the 
advice of Confucius, to "honor the gods and keep them at a 
distance." 

October 25th. Service not so well attended to-day ; more dis- 
order, fewer persons, and less attention ; must expect difficulty in 
keeping up the services. If it is hard to command full and atten- 
tive audiences at home, how much more so here, where the 
preacher is at best but imperfectly understood, speaks of strange 
subjects, sanctified in the mind of his hearers by no familiar or 
early associations, and of vhich they see no possible use? Surely 
were it not for the Word of God, the missionary enterprise were 
the most foolish experiment of the age. Oh, for God's Spirit ! 
What can man do ? 

November 1st. A rainy day, but a good many people in the 
street, going past my house ; though the most of them carried bur- 



JOURNAL AT NINGPO. 3S9 

dens or bundles. There are many weddings about this time, and 
I expected a small audience ; made all my preparations, however, 
and went to my chapel ; sat awhile, and one man came in and sat 
down ; determined to keep him if I could ; I commenced a conver- 
sation, but he seemed frightened at rinding himself alone, and re- 
marked, ;( nobody has come yet, and I'll not stop now, I'll come 
back soon !" So off he went, and no more came. Many passed 
the door, a few looked at the notice, but all went their ways, one 
to his farm, another to his merchandise. After waiting till I was 
satisfied that nobody would come, (my servant had already invited 
a number of the passers-by to come in,) I shut the door, and went 
and prayed. Then prepared a somewhat attractive card, both to 
paste up on the door, and to distribute about, stating that there is 
preaching here, &c. If this does not succeed, then I see no way 
but to get a better location, or to go out into the streets and by- 
ways, the highways and hedges, and speak unto them. Probably 
a chapel in any place, after the novelty wore off, would be de- 
serted; certainly, I suppose, unless the Spirit be poured out from 
on high. Oh Lord, visit this people ! 

Q,uite cold to-day ; thermometer down to 51°, and a foot-stove 
quite comfortable. 

November 2d. Quite a wintry morning ; thermometer down to 
43°, which is much lower than we saw it during this whole month 
last year ; not prepared for it, not having my stove up, nor cracks 
stopped ; but it has moderated some towards evening. 

Went to call on t»he Sz' family, the head of which has recently 
died. He was, take him all in all, the most respectable man I 
have known in Ningpo. He died of apoplexy ; might probably 
have been spared, had the family been willing to have him bled ; 
but as the Chinese have a great horror of blood-letting, they would 
not consent, and the poor old man died by inches. Poor, verily ! 
for he knew enough of the truth and rejected it. Oh how dread- 
ful is the reflection, that in the vast majority of cases, our labors 
only seal this people in deeper destruction. They would have 
perished if we had not come. We come and speak to them ; they 
refuse to receive our words, and sink into deeper misery. But are 
we free from all blame in this ? Do they see us so in earnest as 
to be convinced that we really mean what we say? I fear, often 
not. 

November 15th. In the afternoon I preached on the miracles of 
Christ, to a small, fluctuating, and disorderly congregation. I was 
greatly interrupted by their talking, and especially by a crowd of 
boys, who came in, and behaved without manners. Spoke with 
more fluency and satisfaction to myself than I have yet done ; 
but it seems like speaking to the wind and waves, or writing one's 
name on the sand. Spirit of God, breathe on these dry bones ! 

November 22d. Preached in the afternoon twice, on the death 
of Christ. Commenced with three or four persons, but more 
dropped in till there were twenty or thirty, by the middle of the 



JOURNAL AT NINGPO. 390 

discourse. Some were very attentive. So many kept coming in, 
that after the first company were gone, I preached the same dis- 
course over a second time, and had some forty or fifty at the close. 
Generally pretty good attention, but I was excessively fatigued. 
An hour's almost constant talking in a strange language, and to an 
audience where there are always some unruly ones, is no easy work. 
Some come in and go out ; some make remarks ; one or two smoked 
pipes ; and one or two were rude enough to make remarks in a very 
loud voice as they went out, apparently for the purpose of showing 
how little they cared for what was going on. I have not yet 
learned to talk at ease amidst all the interruptions which I foresee 
I must expect in this work ; but give me such a day as this — I 
mean in regard to numbers and attention — and for a while at 
least, I shall rejoice. Yet to many of the hearers, all they hear- 
must be the merest scraps ; something, to allude to Amos, like the 
" two legs, or a piece of an ear," which others, more eager for some- 
thing, have sometimes got. Well, "faith cometh by hearing ;" and 
I do rejoice, that, however imperfectly, I can yet give some of this 
people the opportunity of hearing. Oh for the living Spirit to 
breathe on the dry bones, and bless the Word. 

November 29th. Weather quite cold of late at night, and ther- 
mometer twice down to 34° before sunrise, but a clear day to-day, 
and it got up to 66° ; very pleasant. 

Preached in the afternoon twice, on the resurrection and as- 
cension of Christ, with pretty good attention both times. One 
man, who came too late for the first service, said, " I don't care 
about books, but I want to hear you talk." Yet there was more 
eagerness for the books than I have often seen. How delightful 
to be able to speak with any fluency. There were some old 
men there, tottering on the brink of the grave ; will the seed 
thus sown ever spring up? 

When I was in Macao, my great anxiety was to get here ; 
arrived here, and was satisfied for a short time ; but then became 
anxious to be able to talk, and thought I would be satisfied if I 
could only talk ; can talk a little, and for a while was almost sat- 
isfied ; but now I want to see fruit. Perhaps if permitted to see 
it, I may be anxious to see it ripen ; if it ripens, to see it safely 
stored away. When shall I be freed from anxiety? When but 
in heaven ? Come, Lord Jesus, come quickly. I shall be satisfied 
when I see thee, or awake in thy likeness. 

December 6th. Preached on the divinity of Christ, with a good 
deal of satisfaction to two different audiences ; the second very 
full and generally very attentive, and very eager for tracts. 

December 13th. Had the emptyings of a theatre to fill my 
house, which it did to overflowing It gave me a larger audience 
than usual ; but those in the back seats were so incommoded by 
the crowd, that they could have heard but little. Preached on 
the Creation. One man seemed greatly struck by the account 
of the institution of the Sabbath. 



CHAPTER IX. 

1847. 

MISSIONARY LABORS AT NINGPO — VOYAGE TO SHANGHAI — MANCHTJ LANGUAGE — 
CHINESE TRANSLATION OF THE BIBLE — IMPORTANCE OF SELECTING PROPER 
TERMS. 

Until the latter end of May, Mr. Lowrie continued his regular 
Chinese services on the Sabbath ; and during the week he found 
many opportunities of making known the truths of the Christian 
system. A portion of each day was given, with increased interest, 
to the preparation of his Chinese dictionary, his plan enlarging as 
he advanced with the work. 

Having been appointed one of the delegates for the revision of 
the translation of the Bible, he reached Shanghai early in June ; 
and when his colleagues assembled, he took part with them in this 
important work. Much time was taken up in deciding on the 
proper Chinese word to be used for the Elohim of the Old Testa- 
ment, and the Theos of the New. This question he had carefully 
examined before the meeting of the delegates, and his further re- 
searches led him very clearly to prefer the Chinese word Shin. 
It was his firm conviction, that to use the Chinese Shang-te, or 
the word Te, for the true God, was only to confirm the Chinese 
in their idolatry. 

Among his last letters is one to his father, expressing his inten- 
tion of studying the language of the Manchu Tartars, and request- 
ing that the necessary books might be procured and forwarded. 
He did not overrate the advantages which a knowledge of this 
language would afford to the missionary cause ; and it will be for 
those still laboring for the evangelization of this great people, to 
carry out this and other important measures of usefulness which 
he left unfinished. 

The essay on the trials and discouragements of the foreign mis- 
sionary, preceded by a note from his friend Mr. Culbertson, closes the 
present selection from his writings. Although some of the senti- 



392 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

merits are expressed in his previous letters and journals, it was 
deemed best to publish this paper entire. His trials and sorrows 
were soon to cease. The work assigned to him by the Head of 
the Church was all finished. On the 19th of August, he was 
called, as we trust, to exchange this scene of conflict and of trial 
for the joy of his Lord. The particulars of this mysterious and 
distressing dispensation of Divine Providence, — the estimate of 
his character by those who knew him well, — and the expression 
of deep affliction caused by his death, will be given by other pens 
in the succeeding chapter. Whilst his relatives and friends bow 
in humble submission to the will of God, and whilst they know 
most assuredly that nothing happens by chance in the govern- 
ment of Him who has all power in heaven and in earth, the stroke 
is so severe, the wound so deep, and so many endeared ties have 
been broken asunder, that they cannot but mourn and weep over the 
early grave of this beloved missionary. He who wept at the grave 
of Lazarus, does not forbid the hallowed tears of his bereaved and 
afflicted servants. 



Ningpo, January 18th, 1847. 
Rev. John C. Lowrie — 

My Dear Brother : — I do not know that I have anything of 
consequence to write at present. Everything moves on quietly. 
.... I find myself now making perceptible progress in reading 
and speaking, and begin at last to feel as if I had mastered the 
chief difficulties in the outset of this hard language. You will, I 
trust, join with me in gratitude for this. Mind, I do not consider 
myself a scholar, or anticipate no further difficulties, for I can see 
enough to know that it is a rough and stony path yet, and up hill 
too. I do not despair, however, if life, and health, and grace be 
given, to make at least very respectable acquisitions in the lan- 
guage. One of the greatest difficulties I meet now, is a tempta- 
tion to devote myself too much to the merely literary part of the 
work. For I find I have made such progress as, notwithstanding 
all the difficulties, to find real pleasure in the study ; and withal, 
there is a field of investigation and thought, of philosophy and of 
poetry in the language, which is well worthy of cultivation. Do 
not smile at this. Notwithstanding the witty articles of the Re- 
pertory, the Chinese are no fools, and they have said and done 
things worthy of great renown. I begin to have a real veneration 
for Confucius, and to doubt whether any heathen philosopher ever 
saw so much truth as he did ; while my tastes are becoming so 
Chinese, that I. find eloquence and poetry, and what not, in multi- 
tudes of forms. You may laugh as much as you please at my 
tastes, but let those laugh that win. However, seriously, I do feel 



LETTERS. 393 

that there is danger of attending to merely literary pursuits, to the 
neglect of the far more important duties of one whose chief busi- 
ness it should be to know nothing but Christ, and him crucified. 
Pray for me. 

Your affectionate brother, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ning-po, January 23d, 1847. 
My Dear Father — 

I had meant to write to you pretty fully on the 19th, being the 
anniversary of my departure from home five years ago; but then 
and since 1 have been so engaged, that it has been quite out of 
my power, and I can only scribble off a few lines this evening. 
My health is very good, but I find myself obliged to relax a little 
in my studies for fear of injuring my eyes, which gave me some 
symptoms of failing a few days ago that quite alarmed me. They 
are, however, nearly well now, and I hope will not suffer. Your 
letter of August 28th, and the list of characters sent by Mr. Sword, 

came duly to hand January 9th We shall endeavor to send 

the list of characters back as soon as possible ; it will require a 
good many additions. I observe, too, several crossed out of the 
printed list, and inserted in the manuscript, which I suppose must 
be an error in copying. I am sorry you have struck out so many 
of the primitives. Would it not be worth while to try and get a 
font of the primitives for printing notes ? I doubt whether the 
plan of printing extensively with the primitives of the Paris type 
can be carried into effect, on account of the too great contraction 
of many of the characters ; but this will not apply to the primitives 
of the Berlin font. Hence I would advise that as many of them 
be procured as possible. I made some progress, some time ago, in 
making out a list of primitives and characters for such an addi- 
tional font, but did not complete it ; and with what I have on hand 
now, and the necessity of sparing my eyes, or at least not taxing 
them any more, I would not like at present to undertake to finish 
it. Probably, too, it is better to get the whole font first, and see 
about the additional font afterwards ; but it might be well enough 
to keep it in view, and see whether Mr. Byerhaus will undertake it. 

I have nearly finished collecting the meaning of the different 
words in Mencius, in pursuance of my scheme of a Dictionary of 
the Four Books, and hope to be through with Mencius next week. 
Thus far I have got meanings to eighteen hundred and fifty-eight 
separate characters, and have noted many meanings to different 
words, of which Morrison's Dictionary takes no notice, and some 
meanings which I have not metin any dictionary. I think I have got 
the correct meaning of the word M|f Taou, which has bothered 
me very often, and of which I have been able to find no satisfac- 
tion in any of the Lexicons. Its primary meaning seems to be a 



394 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

road, but its meaning as used ethically, which is its common and 
most important one, I take to be Anthropology ; — excuse the word, 
it comes the nearest to express the idea. In Christianity, the most 
important science is QsoXopa, the science or word that treats of 
God; Confuciusism keeps God at a distance, (King kwei shin urh 
yuen che, as Confucius says,) and makes a God of man ; hence the 
most important object of knowledge in this system is ;Tj|f Taou, or 
AvdQomoloyia, the science or word that treats of man. I got this idea 
from a passage in Mencius, which I was studying yesterday, " Jin 
yay chay, jin yay, ho. urh che Taou yay," " This humanity is 
man, uniting both in one description, it is Anthropology." The 
note on this passage is. " Humanity is the principle which consti- 
tutes man a man ; man without humanity is a mere lump of flesh 
and blood. Humanity without man is a mere abstraction ; but 
humanity and man together constitute a perfect man, and are de- 
scribed by Taou, Anthropology." I have not had time to investi- 
gate how this new signification will correspond with the use of 
the word in other places, nor do I know whether you care much 
about such morsels of philology. They are dry enough to most 
persons, but thinking it might possibly interest you, I throw it in 
here. 

I take a good deal of interest in this work, because, whether 1 
ever finish it or not, or, if finished, whether it is ever published or 
not, I find it is giving me a considerable insight into the genius 
and correct meaning of the language, and I find it time well spent. 
But it requires some care and self-denial, lest, by attending too 
closely to it, I injure my eyes and health, and neglect more im- 
portant duties. I find myself improving some in the ability to 
prepare and deliver my weekly discourses in Chinese, and hope 
ere long to be able to increase the number of my services. But 
oh, for the Spirit's influences ! I had a long talk with a young 
man this afternoon, as we were walking along the road, but it 
was like beating a bag of wool. He assented to everything, and 
probably forgot everything before I was out of sight. 

.... I must close now. My letter is not half so long as I feel 
like writing it, but it is Saturday night, and I must prepare for 
the Sabbath. That every blessing may rest on you, and all our 
beloved family, is the daily prayer of 

Your affectionate son, W. M. Lowrie. 



Ningpo, January 25th, 1847. 
Rev. Levi Janvier — 

My Dear Brother Janvier : — Your very acceptable letter 
of September 19th, reached me on the 9th inst. I could have 
wished it had been longer, for though it was really " multum in 
parvo," yet about letters I often feel like one of the charity boys in 
Oliver Twist, " Please, sir, I want some more." 



LETTERS. 395 

. I sympathize with you sincerely in your repeated bereavements ; 
but how much nearer heaven you must feel with such messengers 
sent before you. It will not be long - . It often seems to me as if 
few persons could have such anticipations of the bliss of heaven, 
as we missionaries ought to have ; for living in so much solitude, 
or rather in a society more lonely than solitude, how ought we 
to rejoice in the anticipation of that home where we shall rejoin 
the friends we have lost, and mingle with the spirits we love for- 
ever and ever. I feel more and more the loneliness of missionary 
life to be one of its greatest trials. I suppose being single makes 
me feel it still more, but the idea of walking day after day, for 
years together, in crowded streets, without meeting among all the 
people any who care for Jesus, or of looking out over crowded 
graves, and being obliged to say, "none of these will rise to glory," 
is a very desolating reflection. 

I am a good deal encouraged of late in my work, from having 
at last got my mouth opened. You know I am rather a slow 
speaker, and for a while I feared I never would learn this dreadful 
language. This was increased a good deal by finding some of 
my brethren who came out after me, outstripping me in learning 
to talk. To be sure I had peculiar difficulties to contend with ; 
but still it was very discouraging after being nearly four years in 
China, to find myself so poor a talker. However, I have now- 
been preaching regularly for several months, and find myself im- 
proving rapidly. I see no reason why, in ordinary cases, a per- 
son may not speak pretty fluently in two years. It is different with 
regard to the written language, and after five years' labor, one is 
little better than a beginner. 

We have, on the whole, a delightful climate here. A heavy 
fall of snow last night made everything look homelike, but it all 
melted away during the day. 

There is now a good deal of preaching going on here. We are 
all more or less engaged in it, except Brother Way, whose time is 
very profitably employed in the school. I should do a good deal 
more than I do, did I not feel it a duty to endeavor to master the 
written language, which is not to be done in a day, or a year 
either ; but if life and health be spared, I hope to accomplish it in 
due time. Our congregations, however, are not large, and they 
fluctuate a great deal. The attendance varies from five to fifty, 
and I seldom see the same faces more than two or three times. 
It is seed sown by the wayside, literally and spiritually ; for my 
house is on a thoroughfare, " and those who go right on in their 
ways," " turn in hither," to hear this new doctrine. At present it 
is curiosity. I suppose by and by curiosity will give way to indif- 
ference ; then indifference to contempt ; and then to open opposi- 
tion, before we see much fruit. Oh, for faith and patience ! I judge 
from some of your letters which I have seen, that you know both 
" hope deferred that maketh the heart sick," and deep discourage- 
ment at apparently unsuccessful labor. I have some experience 



396 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

of both ; but it is a blessed thing to know that if faithful " we are 
a sweet savor in them that are saved, and in them that are lost." 
Yet it is a melancholy thought that our coming here is likely to 
be the occasion of aggravated condemnation to many more than 
we shall probably benefit by our labors. It is in a small degree 
true of us, as of our Master, " if we had not come and spoken to 
them they had not had sin, but now they have no cloak for their 
sin." However, we should not escape from this reflection by stay- 
ing at home ; for doubtless every clergyman may say the same. 
Even Paul was no exception, for he preached in Ephesus until 
" all that were in Asia heard the word," and yet how few were 
saved ! You have doubtless thought all this before now. 

I am very anxious to know what term you use for God. Is it 
a name of any one heathen god ; or the genuine name for God ; 
or is it a new term introduced by missionaries? What is the San- 
scrit term answering to our word God ? and its precise meaning? 

With kindest regards to Mrs. Janvier and your associates, be- 
lieve me, 

Ever yours in the Gospel of Christ, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ni?igpo, February 19th, 1847. 
My Dear Mother — 

.... The weeks slip by with a rapidity that would be frightful, 
were it not for the calm and pleasing hope that they are wafting 
me to a home where in all labor there is no sorrow. I can hardly 
realize tbat six weeks of the present year are gone already, but 
so it is. Yesterday too was my birthday ; finished twenty-eight 
years, and commenced my twenty-ninth ; and it is more than five 
years since I saw you last. You will ask, what am I doing that 
makes me so busy ? Why, I write a sermon in English about 
once a month ; a sermon in Chinese each week ; an average of 
two or three letters each week, (full letters, notes not counted ;) 
correct two or three proofs in Chinese every week, each proof a 
good hour's work ; and then to fill up and overflow every hour 
besides, I have this copious unfathomable language, which I find 
I must study in winter, and take easily in summer. I am, how- 
ever, now so far advanced, as to find a great deal of real satis- 
faction in the study, and being thus encouraged by success, do 
not again apprehend the tedium and labor which I found in it for 
so long a time. I can now read an ordinary book without assist- 
ance from a teacher, though of course I can read much faster and 
easier with him by my side, and I hope ere long to be able in a 
great measure to dispense with a teacher in translating from 
Chinese into English. I am not yet begun to ask, when I can 
do without one in translating from English into Chinese ; that 
point is as yet many years off. I do not know how much you 
practise Chinese now, but a pietty li tie thought came into my 



LETTERS. 397 

head a few days ago ; it may be in some book I have read, but I 
have no recollection of having met it anywhere. You perhaps 
know that the word neen means to think. Now just divide that 
character in two, and you have kin sin, "now heart" i. e., what 
is now in the heart, which is not a bad definition of thoughts. 
But perhaps this smells too much of the lamp for you. So, for 
more domestic concerns, I have lost my beautiful dog Fanny. 
She followed me out into the street one day, and got to frisking 
about, and got lost in the crowd. I should have felt quite melan- 
choly had it happened a few months sooner ; but the fact is, 
though very beautiful, she was so utterly useless that I did not 
regret her going. Instead of barking, she fawned on every 
stranger that came in, and followed everybody that called her in 
the street. So it seems a fair exterior is no better proof of good 
qualities in dogs than in men. I've got a little pup now, who 
yelped incessantly when I got him, until at last the cat took pity 
on him, and took him under her care. This comforted his heart 
very much, and he is now famous for eating rice and milk, and 
worrying the cat, and gives promise of being worth something 
more before long. I call him Jim. 

Our winter has been mild, and is now pretty much over. We 
have had both ice and snow, but no weather so cold as a good 
deal that we had last year ; and as we all knew better how to 
prepare for it, we have got along very comfortably. I think too 
we shall not have so severe a summer. . . . 

With much love and many warm thoughts, 

Ever affectionately yours, W. M. Lowrie. 



Ningpo, March 20th, 1847. 
My Dear Father — 

Your letters of July 29, September 1, September 11-29, and 
October 30, all came the same day, March 11. Many thanks, 
for every scrap of your pen is precious to me ; especially when I 
know that you so often write when suffering from sickness, or 
overwhelmed with business. I would like to hear from you 
much oftener, and much more fully ; but situated as you are, I 
am only too glad to hear as much and as often as I do. 

The letter you speak of sending by the Grafton has somehow 
been mislaid. I am greatly delighted with the articles in my 
boxes, rat traps, cravats, <fcc, papers and books, especially the 
Alexander on Isaiah and Princeton Repertory Essays, and with 
Kitto's Biblical Cyclopaedia. My own Encyclopaedia of Religious 
Knowledge was so much injured among many other books, com- 
ing from Macao here, that I could scarcely use it. I have Donne- 
gan's Greek Lexicon, but it has lost its cover, and the leaves are 
all coming apart, and besides it is much stained and spoiled, so I 
would much like a new one, especially as I see a new one, based 
on the Greek Lexicon of Passow, advertised in the papers. . . . 



398 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

I have looked over the notes on Millenarianism, but I hardly 
know what to say about them. I do not know how much you 
wish me to write on the subject, and I have never felt that it was 
a subject on which I was called either to go about making 
proselytes, or giving my views where they were not desired. . . . 

I am aware that the presumption is against me, from the fact 
that I hold views so different from the majority of good and wise 
men. I am sorry that it is so, and I recognize in it a duty im- 
plied, that I should hold my own views with modesty, and keep 
myself open to conviction. 

When I first embraced these views, they were novel and ex- 
citing, and perhaps I spoke warmly ; I trust I did not write or speak 
dictatorially ; if I did, I am sorry for it now. The novelty is worn 
off. I do not feel any excitement on the subject ; but I find my- 
self resting calmly and satisfactorily in them, and. I trust I feel 
benefits resulting from them. There are many things about them 
that I do not profess to understand, and many things that I do 
not see clearly. But I suppose that many persons under the 
Levitical dispensation, who firmly believed in the first advent of 
our Lord, might have said the same. Yet their ignorance or 
inability to say how certain things in the Levitical law could be 
made to harmonize with the administration of a new dispensa- 
tion, was no proof that He would not come. 

I am distressed at some remarks you have made, implying that 
Millenarians think but lightly of the office of the Holy Spirit, or 
rather that you think the tendency of their views is to bring the 
importance of his work into question. I do not see what ground 
there is for this. Millenarians do not call in question the indis- 
pensable necessity of the Spirit's influences. As far as I can see, 
which certainly is not far, a new dispensation, which I think is 
clearly implied, may just as much exalt the Spirit's work, as the 
Christian dispensation exalted the Saviour's work. . . . 

Ningpo, as yet, has no prospect whatever of trade. There has 
been less the past year than the year before, and it will in all 
probability be several years before any business is done here. 
We do not regret this, as we now get our funds and papers with 
tolerable ease, though with some delay. Our quietness and seclu- 
sion from the intercourse of ships is a great blessing, notwithstand- 
ing its temporal disadvantages 

I am sorry to hear of the trials in the mission to Africa, but I 
trust there will be no talk of abandoning it. How often it is the 
case, that the greatest troubles and discouragements precede the 
reviving tokens of God's presence ! It may be so in Africa. I 
do not mean that you are likely to talk of giving up the African 
mission, but I saw in the Chronicle some notice of the mission- 
aries there having told the people, that " the continuance of the 
mission depended much on themselves." 

Now I will close off this letter and this week by the journal of 
a day: 



LETTERS. 399 

Rose at six. Breakfast and prayers before seven ; at my Bible 
and Chalmers on Romans till eight. Then corrected a transla- 
tion of the Shorter Catechism with my teacher till half-past nine. 
I first write it in as good Chinese as I can, and then copy it off, 
and correct it two or three times, till I am pretty sure it gives the 
idea, and then talk it over with the teacher, and get him to correct 
obscurities and errors in style; to-day finished down to question 
thirty-nine, which is by much the hardest part. The Catechism 
is so condensed, that it is a very hard thing to translate ; and it, 
is also very hard to find equivalents for some of the terms. My 
teacher was especially puzzled with the phrase " their bodies be- 
ing still united to Christ," and wanted to alter it. But by a good 
deal of explanation he got to see what it meant, and then said 
that I had expressed it correctly. I am quite gratified to find that 
I can write whole sentences, in which he does not alter a word, 
especially in a case where so much care is required as in the 
Catechism. After I get it finished, it will probably be reviewed 
by the mission, and if we agree on it, will be published. But it 
will be necessary to publish a Commentary on it ; for many of its 
clauses and doctrines, even though correctly expressed, will be 
unintelligible without explanation. The commentaries, in the 
form of short questions and answers, will be much easier than the 
text to write. 

Then studied a part of the Four Books, noted the new words 
in my " Collections for a Dictionary," and translated the part I 
had gone over to-day. This kept me till one o'clock. I am 
nearly through the Four Books, and hope to finish them in a 
month. I think now of making my dictionary to comprise the 
Shoo king and the Woo king, and of doing it pretty thoroughly. 
This will require two or three years yet ; but the benefit to my- 
self will repay the labor, and if I get the book done as I hope to, 
it will be a valuable, or at least, an important contribution to 
Chinese philology. I have not as yet told any of the brethren 
here, that I am engaged in it, for I want to be sure of carrying it 
on, before anything is said about it. I feel very little doubt now, 
that I can do it somehow. How. well, remains to be seen, and if 
I cannot do it well, I do not wish it to see the light. 

Mr. Q,uarterman came and dined with me. After dinner we 
went to the Ningpo tower, and then took a long walk into the 
country, I suppose four or five miles. After getting out about 
four miles, a very old respectable man in a boat hailed us, and 
asked where we were going ? How old? Were we married ? &c. 
I gave him a couple of tracts, and as he seemed anxious to talk, 
told him something about our religion. He was greatly gratified 
to meet a foreigner who could talk to him ; and asked us to go to 
his house and drink tea. We took him at his word. So as we 
were now at his home, he got out of the boat and led us in, and 
gave us tea. A crowd of men, women, and children came to see 
us, I suppose two or three hundred. After drinking tea and chat- 



400 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

ting a little, I told him I wanted to talk to the people. He was 
very much pleased, and taking me by the hand, led me out to the 
court, and commanded silence. Not expecting such an oppor- 
tunity and such an audience, I had not prepared myself, but was 
enabled to give a discourse some ten or fifteen minutes long, on 
the main points of religion, which was listened to quite attentively 
by some, and not so well by others. I then gave away all the 
tracts I had, for which there was a regular rush, and we came 
away and got home about dark, pretty tired, but well pleased. I 
have spent the evening correcting my Chinese sermon for to-mor- 
row, on the Fifth Commandment, and in writing this letter. It is 
now late, and I am tired and am going to bed. With much love 
to mother and all good friends, believe me as ever. 
Your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



ON THE MINUTES OF THE GENERAL ASSEMBLY OF 1846. 

Ningpo, March 20th, 1847. 

The Minutes of our venerable General Assembly, after being 
long delayed on the way, have at last reached this place, and are 
now lying before me. The General Assembly ! How many pre- 
cious and endearing associations are connected with that name ! 
From this heathen land it recalls my .thoughts back to the land of 
my birth and early youth ; to the land of my first Christian hopes 
and preparation for the ministry. It is the land of my parents, of 
my brothers and my sisters. It is the land where many warm 
friends dwell. It is the land where the departed sleep ; a land of 
privileges and light ! Its external and physical advantages are 
great ; for it might be said as was said of Canaan in old times, 
" it is a land flowing with honey and milk," and :( the eye of God 
is upon it from the beginning of the year to the end of the year." 
It is a land of freedom, and of peace. But its Christian privileges 
are greater still. It is a land of Bibles, and Sabbaths, and preach- 
ing and revivals. It has its Sabbath schools and religious institu- 
tions. It has its missionary and its Bible societies, to extend to 
other lands the blessings enjoyed in its own borders. Tlie influ- 
ences of the Spirit, like currents of vital air, pervade the land. 
From its hills and its vales go up the voices of prayer and praise, 
and the saints of the Lord are resting in its graves. A land highly 
favored— its God is Jehovah ! Compare that land with this, and 
how painful is the contrast. 

It is pleasant to think that the Church, the minutes of whose 
highest judicatory are now before me, my own loved Church, holds 
no mean place among those which, under God, have made that 
once wilderness land, to bud and blossom as the rose. " The 
General Assembly of the Church !" I love that name. How gen- 
eral and extensive, stretching far and wide throughout the land, 



ON THE MINUTES OF THE GENERAL ASSEMBLY. 401 

yet comprehending and assembling all together in one brother- 
hood. How goodly is the fellowship of the saints ! The represen- 
tatives of the Church throughout the length and breadth of a vast 
land are assembled here, and that not for any selfish purposes, but 
for the highest and the noblest known on earth ; they are met to 
consult for the glory of Christ and his cause. When shall we 
have such a general assembly in this heathen land? When shall 
all the earth see eye to eye, and have one General Assembly ? 
When shall we all go up to the General Assembly, and Church of 
the first-born on high ? 

It has been a deeply interesting employment to look over the list 
of ministers in connection with the General Assembly. I have 
gone over the whole list, pencil in hand, and placed a mark against 
each name of those I knew. I have looked to see how many of 
God's people are under the care of each ; how many additions to 
the communion of their churches ; how many baptisms. I have 
looked farther, to see how active, how liberal, how benevolent, the 
flock of each has been, and how much they have contributed to 
spread the cause of Christ, at home and abroad. But let me recall 
that word, "benevolent." With most persons it signifies a free 
gift, or a disposition to give, where there is no claim on the giver. 
But surely it is no benevolence to give aught to Him of whom we 
receive our all, and to whom, if we give aught, we but give him 
" of his own." " All things come of Thee, and of thine own have 
we given thee." To speak more properly, I have looked to see 
how much each church of those I knew, has realized of its respon- 
sibilities and its stewardship, and what answer it has given to the 
question, " How much owest thou unto my lord ?" In some cases 
1 have almost feared that an unfaithful steward has been there, 
and in place of requiring the full amount, has said, "Take thy 
bill, and sit down quickly, and write fifty, or fourscore." But 
charity requires me to suppose that the minutes of the General 
Assembly give only an imperfect account of what each church has 
done. The thought, however, occurs to me, man may see and 
record what we do, or he may not, but there is One above who 
sees and records it all, and he has said, " It is required in stew- 
ards that a man be found faithful." See the whole context, 
1 Cor. iv. 1-5. 

I love to look over the roll of the General Assembly. There are 
many well-known names there. The venerable father in Christ, 
the strong man, the gentle, loving teacher, friends of my boyhood 
were there : classmates and friends of my College days were there : 
beloved associates in the Theological Seminary were there. If I 
have numbered aright, there are ten with whom I met week after 
week and month after month, to hear the instructions of our ven- 
erated professors. With you I have sat in the same class-room, 
gone to the house of God in company, bowed together in the same 
prayer-meeting, and sat down side by side at the same table of 
the Lord. Tears fill my eyes, as with an overflowing heart, the 

26 



402 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LO¥SIE. 

memory of those favored hours comes back; and if it might be 
so, I could wish for their return. Ye are dwelling in the house 
of God, whilst I sojourn in Mesech ! Ye are going up with the 
great congregation, whilst I sit in the tents of Kedar ! Yet will 
J remember thee, oh God, from the land of Jordan, and the Her- 
mottitesj and from the hill Mizar. 

Years have passed away since then. Many billows roll be- 
tween us now, and many billows have rolled over us since then, 
yet many recollections of those days come up before me in long 
array. What constant friendship did some of us vow, when our 
hearts were warmed as we communed together by the way ! And 
there was our resolve to remember each other in our prayers 
on Saturday evening. Do ye remember it yet ? God's blessing 
rest on ye all, friends of my heart, associates of my earlier days, 
fellow-laborers in the same church, and expectants of the same 
crown ! And ye too, venerated elders of the churches ! Some of 
you I have known in your own homes. Some of my earliest and 
warmest friends were among you. Nor can I ever forget the deep 
feeling with which one of your number, now gone to his rest, once 
said to me, " Ever since I knew aught of Christ, it has been my 
daily prayer that I might know more of him ;" or how another 
of your number said on his death-bed, with an emphasis which 
only the poWers of the world to come could give, " Oh what a 
Saviour is Christ ! He is a rock !" May the spirit of those devo- 
ted men rest on you all ! 

I have read with much interest the proceedings of an Assembly, 
to which I am bound by so many ties. How great a privilege it 
would have been to have been even a doorkeeper there ! It would 
be tedious, and unreasonable, to tell you half my thoughts, on 
reading over the proceedings. May I be pardoned for recording 
some of my thoughts, on reading a part of them ? 

It is natural for each one to feel most interest in what most 
nearly concerns himself and his own immediate pursuits. The 
foreign missionary looks with peculiar interest to the proceedings 
of the Assembly in relation to Foreign Missions. Shall I, or may 
I, say what I thought? Perhaps it may be wrong, or presumptu- 
ous, or censorious ; if so, forgive me ; but there was an emotion 
not unmixed with disappointment, on the perusal of the resolu- 
tions about foreign missions. You know best whether so many 
as nine resolutions were necessary, but it did strike me that 
they were dull, — too many words, and the sentences too long. A 
person almost loses his breath before he reads through some of 
them. Would it not have been better, if, with less of the charac- 
ter of a grave homily, there had been a more pointed application? 
If, instead of merely " grieving" and " inviting" and " recommend- 
ing," they had embodied in few words a glowing resolution to do, 
and to act ? But I will not criticise. Rather let me carefully 
read them over again, and may God's blessing rest on their au- 
thors, and on him who reads. 



ON THE MINUTES OF THE GENERAL ASSEMBLY. 403 

It is well. The work of missions is important ; the Church 
should unite under their own Board : missionary intelligence 
should be diffused ; earnest prayer should be offered ; and the 
Jews should have an able and efficient mission. It is well that 
the Church, through her highest judicatory, should give utterance 
to these truths. I suppose they were adopted unanimously, as no 
notice is given of any disapprobation or dissent. 

But what shall be, or rather what has been, the result of these 
resolutions ? They are your public testimony, and not merely re- 
corded in your official records, but recorded by one who says, 
" When thou vowest a vow unto God, defer not to pay it ;" and 
who will look to see how official resolutions, which bear the nature 
of a vow, are performed. You have gone down from that high 
position in the General Assembly, to your separate flocks. If you 
carry not out your own resolutions, surely no others will. Have 
you then in your separate fields carried out the principles, and 
performed the duties you have publicly professed ? Is interest in 
the missionary cause deepening among your own people ? Is mis- 
sionary intelligence more widely diffused ? Do your flock take 
more copies of the Chronicle and Foreign Missionary ? Is more 
prayer offered? Are more efforts made? Or if not, are we to 
understand that you have already attained to the measure of the 
standard fixed in your resolutions, and need not to go beyond it ? 

And how. do your resolutions compare with those of the past or 
previous years? What advance has been made beyond the stand 
taken ten, or five years ago? The resolutions of the General As- 
sembly of 1841 were very good. The Assembly of 1842 recom- 
mended that one hundred thousand dollars should be raised in 
that year ; but that sum has never been raised in any year yet. 
The resolutions of 1844 I have not yet seen, but a kind and cordial 
notice of missionary operations, found a place in the narrative of 
religion of that year. 

I fear it must be said, that the resolutions of the General As- 
sembly mark no perceptible advance in the state of missionary 
feeling in the Church. There has been a slight increase of pecu- 
niary contributions, but the Church has not yet come up to the 
standard fixed by the Assembly of 1842, as then practicable. 
Brethren, where is the fault? Your resolutions, to be of any 
worth, must be acted out ; or in the end the people will become 
hardened by them, and instead of good, they will do harm, and 
" the rust of them" will be a witness against yourselves. Might I, 
with all humility, suggest that instead of a long series of resolu- 
tions, a few sentences, brief and pointed, would be much better, if 
each one who voted for them were to resolve that, let others do as 
they may, he at least would carry them out in his own church. 
Were this course adopted, in five successive General Assemblies, 
nay, in only two, what prodigious results would be secured ! 

But there is one sentence in the last resolution, which calls forth 
my warmest gratitude. The General Assembly of our Church 



404 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

solemnly assures us that your " daily prayer is that the Saviour 
may be present with us, and that the blessing of the Holy Spirit 
may rest on our labors." Oh ye fathers and brethren ! this one 
sentence is to us worth more than thousands of silver and gold. Let 
others do as they may, we are here assured that in the daily pray- 
ers of one hundred and thirteen ministers, and seventy-six elders, 
we are remembered. Who would not rejoice to be held in " daily" 
remembrance by so many ministers and elders 7 Who would not 
feel strengthened in his work, by the assurance from the highest 
judicatory in the Church, that at least all those who composed 
that body, every day invoke " the presence of the Saviour, and the 
blessing of the Spirit" on his labors? In the name of every mis- 
sionary of our Church, I thank you for that assurance ; for surely 
God will hear such prayers. May they be graciously answered by 
Him, in blessings on our heads, and may they return with tenfold 
blessings on your own ! You are daily praying, and doubtless 
daily looking for an answer to those prayers. God is the hearer 
and the answerer of prayer, and our hearts are revived by the 
thought. How glorious, how blessed to be a member of a Church, 
so large as ours, where such a bond of union exists, and where 
those who occupy the most conspicuous stations, assure those far- 
thest off, and least known, of an interest in their daily prayers. I 
cannot allow myself to harbor for one moment the thought, that 
this assurance is a mere unmeaning form of words, passed in the 
routine of business, and forgotten amidst succeeding occupations 
or more interesting pursuits. It cannot so be. 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ning-po, April 10th, 1847. 
My Dear Father — 

Your letter of July 17-20, did not come till some ten days or 
more after the things it mentioned had been received. I believe 
everything has come safe. Some of the other brethren were not 
so much favored, as some three or four boxes fell into the hands 
of pirates between Canton and Macao. The pirates are getting 
exceedingly bold all along the coast. I was told to-day that ten 
out of the eighteen timber firms in Ningpo had shut up their shops 
this year, as the pirates on the coast stopped their ships when 
coming from Fuhkeen province, and required such heavy ransom, 
that it, became a losing business. I hardty know how I shall get 
to Shanghai this summer, as it is hardly safe to venture out to 
sea, in our small passage boats, when such customers are abroad. 
At present I propose applying for leave to go by way of Hangchou. 
a place I want to see on many accounts. 

The convention for the revision of the Translation of the New 
Testament, is to meet on the 1st of June. I presume you will see 
the accounts of it as soon as any other person. The most inter- 
esting question likely to be discussed, is the one in reference to a 



LETTERS. 405 

proper term for " God. ; ' Increasing dissatisfaction is felt by many 
with the term Shang-te, which Mr. Medhurst patronizes, and the 
discussion of that subject is likely to be an earnest one. I should 
like much if you could find time to make yourself familiar with it. 
You will find in the Chinese Repository of 1846 and 1847, several 
articles on both sides. The one in November and December, 1846, 
and January, 1847, shows my views. I think, if the principles 
laid down in the article in the November number are granted, 
that the question is settled in favor of " Shin," and I should be 
glad to get the opinion of some Biblical scholars on the subject. 
You will see Mr. Medhurst' s views in the January number of this 
year. I think every one of his positions is capable of a clear and 
distinct answer. I hope some one will reply to it. I shall probably 
write an answer myself, but do not expect to publish it. having 
already said as much as becomes so young a student of the lan- 
guage. As an evidence of the evil done by using the term 
Shang-te for the name of God, is the following : — Not long ago a 
very respectable man came to my house one Sabbath. I got into 
conversation with him, and asked him if he knew anything of 
Jesus ? He replied, he had heard he was the son of " Yuh hwang 
ta te," the "Jewelled Great Emperor." This is the chief god in 
the Chinese mythology. His birth-day is on the first, month, third 
day ; his image is in one of our largest temples ; and he is known 
indifferently by the name above given, or by that of Shang-te. I 
never use the term now, having uniformly found that the people 
supposed I meant their own Shang-te. 

Sabbath evening, April 11. This has been a very pleasant day 
clear, warm, and comfortable. Sermon at our church by Mr. 
Culbertson, on " Joy in heaven over one sinner that repenteth." 
After sermon, the eldest boy in the school, of whom you have 
heard several times, and whose full name is Yuen Ko Keun, made 
profession of his faith, and was received into the church, in pres- 
ence of all his school-mates, and several other Chinese, by baptism. 
After a short interval, the Lord's Supper was administered. All 
the services of Baptism and the Lord's Supper were in the Chinese 
language, and were conducted by the pastor, Mr. Culbertson. 
This is, I believe, the first case in which any one whose first im- 
pressions are due, under God, to members of our Mission, has been 
admitted to the church. Others have, it is true, received great 
benefit from our mission ; but, humanly speaking, they would 
have been savingly converted if we had not been in the field. I 
suppose in this case, as in the case of Apoo, baptized two years 
ago, that the principal influence has been exerted by Mrs. Way, 
and it is worthy of notice how God has been pleased to use the 
youngest, feeblest, (as far as bodily health is concerned,) and the 
most unassuming member of our mission, to effect the purposes of 
his mercy. To his name be the glory. As an offset to the above 
pleasing account, take the following : — All the time we were en- 
gaged in our services, we were disturbed by some Chinese carpen- 



406 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

ters close by, building a pleasure-boat for a European resident. I 
went out and requested them to cease, which they promised to do, 
but for some reason did not. Coming home from church, I found 
in one place a number of Buddhist priests reading and chanting 
prayers over a person lately deceased; and a few steps further on, 
a table full of victuals spread before a new tomb, and a widow 
woman wailing bitterly. They formed sad contrasts to the exer- 
cises in which we had been engaged. 

After a light dinner, I preached on the Eighth Commandment, 
but the audience was neither large nor attentive. One man, how- 
ever, evidently heard everything, and indeed so did another, who 
was sitting by the door outside when I began, but became so 
much interested, that he came close up, and sat down as near me 
as he could. But most paid little attention, and went away as 
they came 

Monday. Q,uite warm to-day. I hope this week to get through 
my collection of significations of the words used in the Four Books. 
There are about twenty-three hundred different characters. Most 
of them occur in only one or two senses ; but several of them oc- 
cur in such a variety of meanings, that it will take no little skill 
to get them properly exhibited. After getting through the Four 
Books, I think of laying the subject by for three or four months, 
as I am pretty tired of it. In the fall, if life and health be spared, 
I wish to resume it, and treat the Five Classics in the same man- 
ner, which will be a large job, and I suppose will occupy two 
years at least. .... 

As ever, your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Ning-po, May 9th, 1847. 
My Dear Mother — 

.... The city has been all in a hubbub for the last four days 
with the [Too shin hwuy, or] Procession in honor of all the Gods. 
Great preparations have been made for it for weeks past, as it is 
the greatest festival of the year, and crowds of people have flocked 
in from all parts of the country to witness it. Perhaps there have 
been five hundred thousand persons, residents and strangers, con- 
gregated in and about the city, and it has been a curious sight to 
witness the crowds that collected where anything was to be seen. 
Numerous companies of strolling play-actors have taken advantage 
of the occasion, to display their talents and pick up cash. They 
commonly have their theatres in the temples, nearly all of which 
have a stage built for the purpose, but it is not uncommon for the 
actors to erect a temporary stage in the street, occupying nearly 
the whole breadth of the narrow passage, and with the crowd of 
spectators, rendering it utterly impossible to go through the street. 
In every street where the procession was expected to pass, such 
numbers of people collected as made it a matter of no little dim- 



PROCESSION IN HONOR OF THE GODS. 407 

cully to force one's way through. Parents were obliged to carry 
their children on their shoulders, and one would be amused in 
watching from an upper window the tides of men as they swept 
backward and forward. Wherever any eminence offered a favor- 
able location, it was so thickly covered with people, that it seemed 
like some great pyramid of shaven heads and black eyes. Yet 
with all this crowd there were few cases of disorder or fighting. I 
saw but, one example of the latter, in winch there were only two 
persons engaged, one of whom broke his pipe-stem over the head 
of the other and drew blood, giving him a hearty pull by the tail 
at the same time ; but the bystanders, instead of taking sides, and 
having a " regular row," as would have been the case in some 
Christian countries, seemed only anxious to quiet the disturbance 
as soon as possible. Everybody carries a pipe with a wooden 
stem from two to four feet long, and it was a curious sight to see 
the forest of pipe-stems which the living mass held up on every 
side ; but the stems were too weak to have done much harm as 
cudgels, and the people do not carry sticks or weapons. There 
was no drunkenness seen, and New York on the Fourth of July 
night would compare badly with Isingpo on the Festival of all the 
gods. 

It would be in vain to attempt to describe the procession, or to 
enumerate its component parts, for the number of articles was too 
great, and our language contains no terms to describe many of 
them. It will suffice to mention the most conspicuous ; and if 
you will form an idea of them arranged in any order to suit 
yourself, you will have nearly as definite an impression of the 
general features of the procession as those who have witnessed 
the whole. 

Imagine then, in the first place, a long narrow street not more 
than twelve feet wide, and people standing three and four deep 
on each side through its whole length, leaving room for only two 
or three persons to walk abreast in the middle. When more 
room was required to let any part of the procession pass, it was 
obtained by a process familiarly known to school-boys by the 
name of " scrouging." But the Chinese pack well, as any one 
would think who might see a passage boat going from one place 
to another, and few T complaints were heard when fifty men were 
crowded into a space where twenty could not stand with any com- 
fort. Along this narrow passage way, came low, lean, scraggy 
horses, half concealed by stuffed saddles, which were covered with 
rich embroidered silk and with festoons of silk and tinsel sticking 
about over the neck and hind flank in every imaginable shape. 
The horses were generally led by a well-dressed little boy, who 
held the silken bridle, while the rough rope halter, but half con- 
cealed, was held by a man who walked at the side to support the 
rider. The riders were all boys, frequently so small as to be quite 
unable to put their feet in the short stirrups; they were gor- 
geously dressed in silk robes, with highly ornamented caps, and a 



40S MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

banner of some kind in a socket fastened on their backs. There 
was never more than one horse at a time, though there were some 
fifteen or twenty in all. Then came men and boys, with blue or 
white or yellow or green caps, and parti-colored dresses, beating 
gongs, cymbals and drums, and blowing trumpets and clarionets 
which made one's ears tingle ; a few had flutes, whose melody 
was pleasant enough. These musicians were so thickly scattered 
through the procession that the charms of music were never want- 
ing, though sometimes they could have been spared well enough. 
A few men with grotesque masks and odd movements stalked 
along or danced about, and here and there a man in dirty red 
garments, doing penance (self-imposed) for his sins, gave variety 
to the scene. 

The lanterns were among the most conspicuous parts of the 
procession, for no show in China, either by day or night, is per- 
fect without its lanterns. There were some called u the nine con- 
nected lanterns," and " the five connected lanterns," which con- 
sisted of nine square or Ave round glass lanterns in a perpen- 
dicular frame, ornamented with silken fringe and tassels, beads, 
shells, streamers and grotesque figures on the glass, often giving 
ludicrous caricatures of foreign soldiers and sailors. They were 
also ornamented with pictures of clocks, and crowned with im- 
ages of birds and beasts. Large single lanterns, each borne by 
one man, were also carried about ; but few of these were so hand- 
some as those exhibited last year. Men bearing long staves or 
wands, ornamented with tinsel or feather and flower work, filled up 
vacant spaces. Some bore flags and streamers, and everywhere 
men with rattans about a yard long, with pieces of colored cloth 
or silk attached, like the feather of an arrow, were waving them 
in the faces of the people to keep the pathway clear : the number 
of these was so great in all parts of the procession, that they 
formed one of its most conspicuous objects. 

Some eight or ten dragons, varying from thirty to fifty yards in 
length, and each borne by from fifteen to fifty men, attracted due 
attention. The heads of these monsters were made of a light 
bamboo framework, lined with green, red, and yellow silks, great 
staring eyes, large teeth, and diversified figures stuck about them, 
while the bodies were made of parti-colored silks, red flannel, blue 
cotton, or whatever else the maker chose. One which was par- 
ticularly rich, was completely covered with scales made of pieces 
of looking-glass. Clumsy coaches and ships, borne by four or six 
men, and carrying either a girl or a boy, or a drum which was 
constantly beaten, or else a miniature table, with the dishes ar- 
ranged and chairs around it, or a vessel of smoking incense, occu- 
pied their due station in the show. The richest things were a 
number of large silken canopies, very richly embroidered, with 
beautiful fringes of silk thread ; each of the canopies, of which 
there were five or six, differed from the others in color, embroid- 
ery and fringes. The most amusing objects, perhaps, were a 



PROCESSION IN HONOR OF THE GODS. 409 

couple of long-billed birds, with white bodies, and green legs, which 
stood some ten or twelve feet high. These were men walking on 
stilts, and so disguised as to present a good, though most grotesque 
resemblance to birds. They walked on their stilts with much ap- 
parent ease, clapped their wings, and moved their heads about, 
" veiy much like nature, only a little more so." Behind them fol- 
lowed a man on stilts, with a large trident, (looking, however, 
very much like a three-pronged pitchfork,) which he twirled about 
with great assiduity, but he was in an unfortunate position, for 
his immediate predecessors, the birds, quite eclipsed him. 

Perhaps the most interesting parts of the exhibition were the 
stages, on which what might be called " flying girls" were exhib- 
ited. Of these stages were eight or ten, having perhaps twenty 
girls, all supported in different modes. On one of the stages was 
a vessel containing a lotus plant growing out of the water, and on 
its broad leaves, some six feet from the stage, sat a couple of girls 
apparently about sixteen years old. On another, two girls were 
sitting on the outermost twigs of a green bush. On another sat 
a young woman very much at her ease, holding a light bamboo 
wand in one hand, and having another carelessly resting over her 
shoulder ; and on the outer ends of these two wands stood two 
little girls, fanning themselves. On another stage, stood a little 
girl with a gilt double ring ; on the upper ring stood another girl 
on one foot. On another stage sat a young woman with a guitar 
on one knee, and having another slung across her back ; and on 
the end of each of these guitars stood a little girl. On another 
stage stood a young girl holding in her hand a crooked serpent, 
some four feet long, on the tail of which stood another girl. On 
another stage stood a young woman holding up a rod, the end of 
which was ten or fifteen feet from the ground, and on the upper end 
of this rod stood another little girl. These little creatures were 
all gorgeously dressed, and some were very pretty ; they seemed 
much at their ease, and were delighted at the notice they attract- 
ed. They had nothing to support them, except the single hand 
or the single foot by which they stood or held to the slight poles 
on which they were perched, though occasionally the men who 
walked alongside held up a larger pole for them to steady them- 
selves, and rest for a little while. Thus they were carried about 
for several hours, passing through narrow crowded streets in the 
hot sun, and often passing under arches so low that it was only 
by stooping that they could get through them. They must have 
been supported by iron framework, passing up through the poles 
or twigs or rings on which they stood, and so arranged as to sus- 
tain their bodies, for the most expert rope-dancer could not long 
have stood as they did without aid, but in most cases the support- 
ing irons were so adroitly concealed, that they seemed borne along 
through the air. 

After speaking of the flying girls, it is scarcely worth while to 
describe the little boys standing on men's shoulders, or the fir© 



410 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

crackers that were occasionally fired off, as the procession passed 
along. The whole affair occupied an hour and a half in pass- 
ing one point, and must have been some two miles long, but 
it is not probable that the whole of it passed through any one 
street. The main body went through the city gates, principal 
streets, and in front of the offices of government, while detach- 
ments passed through some of the minor streets, where the inhab- 
itants expressed a desire to have them do so. It is considered 
lucky to have it pass through the street where one lives, and the 
inhabitants often give presents to the conductors to have detach- 
ments sent past their houses. There were no idols carried this 
year, though last year a large number were exhibited, and formed 

an important part of the procession 

Yours affectionately, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



JOURNAL AT NINGPO. 

January 3d, 1847. Preached on the faith of Abraham, to a 
strange kind of an audience ; most of them very respectable, but 
disposed to talk and make remarks ; some were very attentive ; 
but to some the story seemed amusing and almost ridiculous, 
and the idea of so old a man having a son only afforded 
matter for a laugh. How hard it is to preach to such a people — 
so indifferent, so insensible ! I came from my address to my 
knees ; for I am made to feel that the treasure is committed to 
earthen vessels. 

Have some encouragement with my servants, particularly Az- 
hih, whom I am training carefully in religious instruction. They 
take a good deal of interest in it, and I cannot but hope are be- 
ginning to feel a little. Oh, for God's Spirit to be given to them. 

January 10th. Preached on the character of God ; audience 
much as usual. It is no small trial of the spirit to one accus- 
tomed to address attentive audiences, to have such as I com- 
monly find ; people coming in and going out, some making re- 
marks, some laughing, some ruder, and only few attending, and 
yet some of even these few taking up the strangest notions from 
the plainest truth. To human eyes all such preaching must seem 
very foolishness. Well, be it so. "The foolishness of God is 
wiser than men," and by " the foolishness of preaching he will 
save them that believe." 

The external evidences of Christianity are of little use here. 
The people have as many and as famous miracles as we to boast 
of; and their minds are not so trained as to perceive and appre- 
ciate the evidence, which proves the truth of ours and the falsity 
of theirs. Hence they make no scruple of believing whatever we 
tell of deeds of wonder by Christ and his apostles. They can 
produce parallels in their own history. I spoke of the miraculous 



JOURNAL AT NINGPO. 411 

conception of Christ. " Oh, yes," said one, '■'■ that is true, it is just 
like a similar event in our history; let me see. where was it?" 
And after some thought, and assisted by one or two others pre- 
sent, he produced the circumstance. How should he believe my 
story, or feel more interest in it than I in his. 2 Oh, Spirit of 
Life, come down ! 

January 17th. A rainy day, and no one came to service. 

January 18th. Crossing - the ferry, I found a very simple-hearted 
peddler of silk thread and trimmings, on the boat. He said he 
sold about a thousand cash worth of articles in a day, and made 
a profit of near two hundred, or about sixteen cents. He was 
very curious to know all about my affairs. Had I a father and 
mother ? Did they consent to my coming away ? Did not they 
cry very much when I came away? When was I going back? 
My answers gave him great satisfaction, but still more to a plain- 
looking but very motherly woman also in the boat, who seemed at 
a loss which to admire most, a foreigner speaking her own lan- 
guage, or the evidence he gave of possessing the feelings of a 
man. Nothing pleases the people better than our speaking their 
language. Going over there were two or three men in the boat, 
one of whom knew me, and asked some questions which I an- 
swered ; quite a respectable man by my side actually laughed 
aloud from pleasure at hearing me speak Chinese, and asked me 
several questions, apparently from no other motive than to hear a 
foreigner answer them in Chinese. I gave him some tracts, which 
he read very fluently. 

Jan. 24th. A wet, rainy day, and apprehended having no con- 
gregation again ; however, on going down, found a very respect- 
ably dressed middle-aged man named Chith, who lives somewhere 
in the city ; he was very polite and respectful, told me he had 
long " desired to see me, looked up to me for instruction," &c, 
according to the usual routine of Chinese ceremonial speech. 

We had some talk, and as there were three or four persons 
present, I delivered my discourse to a very attentive, though small 
audience. The man took a copy of Luke with comments, and 
promising to come again, departed. I was very glad of the op- 
portunity of talking which was afforded, for I sometimes feel 
greatly cast down, especially when I find little opportunity of 
speaking for Christ. 

Knowledge that there is such a thing as Christianity is increas- 
ing and spreading in this part of the country, as I frequently meet 
persons who have heard at least the name of Jesus. 

Feb. 21st. For the last three or four Sabbaths, nothing special 
has occurred ; audiences varying from ten to fifty ; commonly sit 
and talk more after giving my sermon than I used to do, which 
gives an opportunity of more pointed and personal application, 
but also opens the door for any and every kind of question, and is 
very sure, in half an hour, to get off to questions about food and 
clothing, &c. The natural man " understandeth not the things 



412 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

of the Spirit." One man to-day seemed a very merry sort of a 
fellow, but withal, as respectful as a man could be whose only 
object was to make sport ; asked a number of questions, and 
started a hearty laugh after each of them, in which he was joined 
by several others, who seemed to urge him on. At last, I asked 
him why he asked such questions ? And whether his only object 
was not to make sport of what I considered a very serious matter? 
He was quite abashed : several persons around told him to be 
quiet, and he got up and went out. Had quite a full house as I 
talked the second time; but, alas ! it. is preaching to dry bones. 
O, Spirit ! Breath of the Almighty ! breathe on these dry bones ! 

Feb. 26th. Took a long walk into the country, to some places 
where I have not before been ; was exceedingly stared at in one 
place, where the whole village turned out to see me, and the 
women were the most forward and curious of all. Quite abashed 
a little girl by asking her what, her name was, as it seems she had 
none. It is not common to give names to girls. But it is melan- 
choly to see the dissipation of morals here Oh when shall 

purity prevail, where there is so much vice ? 

Went afterwards and had a pleasant little talk with some men 
in a little resting-house, and then came home, well tired. Some 
little yellow flowers are in blossom now. I saw dandelions in full 
bloom a month or more ago, though there had been a hard frost 
before, and plenty of it since then ; but the cold weather must be 
nearly over now. 

March 14th. Preached in the morning, in English, on Gal. iv. 
7 ; in the afternoon in Chinese, to some thirty or forty persons, on 
the Fourth Commandment ; was favored with as much fluency 
as I have ever had, and fully as good if not better attention. In- 
deed, the congregation to-day would not have done discredit to 
any similar congregation in a Christian land. One man came in 
talking, and I supposed meant to keep on talking, but he behaved 
very quietly, only putting in a word now and then. After I had 
said that no work was to be done on the Sabbath, he asked, 
" Then what shall we do — go to sleep ?" This brought on the 
next part of my subject — Duties to be done on the Sabbath. He 
stayed after service. I talked some ; but there were many who 
wanted to talk about the news and trifling matters, and I found 
so little opportunity of saying anything profitable, that I soon left 
them. The man above referred to, seemed a man of some learn- 
ing. He insisted on it, that since I was so generous, as to come 
out here, and preach to the people, and advise them to do good, 
that I would surely become a god at last. ! But how hard it is to 
get a Christian idea into their heads, to say nothing of impress- 
ing it on their hearts. After repeating over and over again, the 
statements about God as eternal, true, and holy, they are sure to 
confound all you say with their own gods. This is not because 
they do not understand what I say, for I find that I am pretty 
well understood ; but because, first, they cannot conceive how it is 



JOURNAL AT NINGPO. 413 

that their own gods are false gods ; and, second, they have no 
idea of the importance of the subject, to induce them to give a 
serious thought to what they hear, and hence, when they hear of 
the " true God," they take it as a matter of course that their own 
gods are intended. 

We are greatly at. a loss for a word corresponding to our word 
worship. The Chinese 3^E $£ pai pai, which comes nearest to 
it, is very far from expressing it ; so that frequently, when I 
have been praying in public, some one says, why you did not 
"pai pai," "worship." By the use of the word, they mean prin- 
cipally the motions of the hand and the body in bows and prostra- 
tions before the idol. 

March 21st. Opened my doors at three, p. m., and went down as 
usual, but there were few passers-by. I sat alone for nearly half 
an hour, having only one little boy carrying a baby in his arms, 
to come near me. After a while, two or three well-dressed men 
came in and one sat down, but the other two went away. I asked 
him his name and residence, but he did not seem disposed for a 
conversation. 1 then opened a copy of Luke, and began to read 
it. He asked what it was. and we had something to talk about 
it. Others came in ; he praised my fluency of utterance and cor- 
rectness of speech : and in answer to some questions, I had a good 
opportunity of giving some outlines of creation and redemption. 
But the subject had no charms for the natural heart ; and as soon 
as I was done, one of the men asked, " Is your sovereign a man 
or a woman?" Q,uite a crowd had now collected, and I gave 
them my sermon as well as I could, which was not very well. 
Some heard it all ; some got enough before it was half done. One 
quite respectable looking lady came in and sat down, and she at 
least heard everything that was said. Oh for a blessing on her ! 

It is hard preaching, for the audience changes so much, that I 
must go over the same simple truths every day, treating all the 
time of first principles ; and this displeases the few who come more 
than once, for having already heard all this, they want something 
else. 

March 24th. Started for a walk, got out of the south gate and 
thought of going up into the country, when I recollected that there 
were little wax representations of fruit, &c, to be had in the city, 
which I wanted to get. So I turned off and went through the 
lowest gate towards the Koolowtseen. Passing by one of the pa- 
rade grounds, I saw several persons with bows and arrows ; and 
knowing that there were people practising archery there, I went 
in to see what was going on. There were several groups, shoot- 
ing at targets ; some of the archers pierced the centre, while others 
shot very wide of the mark. As soon as I came in, several persons 
gathered around me, and presently there was quite a crowd, mostly 
well-dressed, and respectable men. The first one that spoke to me 
asked my opinion of some women, who were looking out of a door 



414 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

not far off. At home I should not have thought much of such a 
question, but here it could have only one meaning, and he saw in 
a moment that I was displeased, and apologized for having spoken 
so. Great merriment was caused by my speaking in their own 
language, and several questions were put, apparently only for the 
pleasure of hearing a foreigner speak in Chinese. I was not in 
much humor for talking ; so I took out what few tracts I had with 
me. They were gone in a moment. I thought of going too, but 
a very pleasant looking young man said, '' Oh do not go, stay and 
talk." " What shall I talk about ?" said I ; and then seeing one 
of them looking over a copy of the Ten Commandments I had just 
given him, I took it, and gave them a little talk on them, and on 
the redemption of Christ. They were very curious to know where 
I lived. So I told them where, and that I should be happy to see 
them at my house, at my Chinese service on the Sabbath. Sev- 
eral said they would come. We parted on the best terms. 

I then went to the Koolowtseen street, and found a great crowd ; 
now is the time of the annual examination for Sewtsai. Stalls of 
all kinds of coarse toys were set up on both sides of the street, and 
the venders seemed to be making money. I was much interested 
with the dexterity of the men who made wax figures. They had 
half a dozen kinds of different colored wax balls, and a very small 
furnace ; and three men were busily employed in making figures 
of fish, four-footed beasts, &c. They also made flowers, fruits, 
&c. The fruits were especially natural. Everything was done 
by hand or by little sticks, and pieces of iron ; and the resem- 
blances thus formed were surprisingly accurate. The. articles 
made were also very cheap, and for eleven cents I got seventeen 
or eighteen of them. 

March 27th. There is a great crowd of strangers in the city at 
present, in consequence of the examinations. After dinner Ho 
Keun, the oldest boy in the school, whom we hope to receive into 
the church at our next communion, spent some time with me. 
He thought there were a great many comparisons, or figurative 
expressions, in the book of Revelation. I told him he would do 
better not to attend to that so soon. He wanted to know how the 
Lazarus whom Jesus loved could have been so poor as to be laid 
at a rich man's gate. He had a number of other questions which 
I answered. After speaking a while in Chinese, we conversed in 
English. He speaks well for the time he has spent at it. It 
seemed strange to hear a Chinese speak in my own language. 
Our hope is that he will be a blessing to his own people. 

Sabbath, 28th. Rose at half-past six o'clock. Morning occupa- 
tions as usual. Breakfast at half-past seven. Read in the Bible 
till nine. Fell into a long train of thought about getting a Sab- 
bath school in St. Louis to undertake my support, and many 
thoughts on this subject crowded into my mind. Looked over my 
Chinese sermon for the afternoon, and selected some short tracts 
for distribution. English service as usual, and a good sermon by 



JOURNAL AT NIJfGPO. 41-5 

Mr. Colbert son. At three opened the doors of my Chinese room, 
found almost the only constant hearer I have, in the room. A 
few others came in, and I commenced my discourse, which was 
on the Sixth Commandment. I believe I never .got on bettci. 
had a more quiet and attentive audience. After speaking about 
twenty minutes, Ave all rose, and I offered a short prayer, and dis- 
missed them. Gave away all the tracts; and two young men 
from Hangchow, the capital of the province, w r ere highly gratified 
at receiving some of them, and at my speaking in their own lan- 
guage, and gave me many thanks. 

I am teaching the Shorter Catechism to my servants, but find 
it hard work ; first, the Chinese language has no suitable terms 
for many things, and second, my command of the language is not 
yet sufficient for the circumlocution in such a case. There are 
more terms in the written language than in the spoken, but they 
are of no more use to the common people than the Latin and 
Greek terms in theological and philosophical books are to the un- 
learned at home. I know of no term in the language to express 
precisely " chief end." For " decree," there is a good word, ming, 
in the written language, but not in the spoken. For "covenant," 
yo is a good word, but it is understood only by scholars, nor is 
there any good word for it in the colloquial. "Providence," "fall," 
" redemption," " original sin," " effectual calling," "justification," 
" adoption," " sanctification," " privilege/' " holy," are all very hard 
words to be put into intelligible Chinese. Most of them may be 
expressed, after a sort, in the written language, which is very co- 
pious, but when it comes to the spoken language one is at a loss, 
and a great deal of circumlocution is unavoidable. One of the 
great difficulties in our work lies in this very want of proper terms, 
and I see not how it is to be remedied excepting in long and pa- 
tient use of the most suitable terms we can find ; thus, at length, 
" converting" them from their heathenish uses and associations to 
Christian purposes. 

How true are those words, " Sin has reigned unto death !" Its 
power is shown even in forms of speech. The application of terms 
to evil, is an evidence of sin reigning. This language is an instru- 
ment in Satan's hand to blind men to their ruin. But as sin hath 
reigned, so shall grace reign, even in the terms of this language, 
unto everlasting life. Wherever sin hath set up its throne and 
swayed its sceptre, there shall grace come in and set up a higher 
throne, and sway a mightier sceptre. Would that I might, do 
something for the conversion of this language, and through it of 
this people unto God ! 

Monday, 29th. Busy in the fore part of the day with my teacher, 
and at the Four Books. At three, visited Mr. Culbertson. Coming 
back, was barked at unmercifully by several dogs. As soon as I 
am three steps beyond them, they follow for a square or two, bark- 
ing and yelping without ceasing. It does make one feel as a 



416 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

stranger to be barked at in this way, for they do not move their 
tongue to a Chinaman. 

March 30th. All the missionaries in Ningpo met to discuss the 
question of the marriage of Christian converts with persons re- 
maining in heathenism. The question came up in consequence of 
a letter from some missionaries in Shanghai, who have a case of 
the kind on hand, and wanted to know our views. After a com- 
parison of views for four hours, we came to the conclusion that 
such marriages were inexpedient and to be discouraged ; but did 
not feel prepared to make a term of communion in all cases out 
of the subject. 

March 31st. All day at my Chinese studies, and at the Four 
Books. At five, p. m., took a walk for relaxation. Gathered some 
spring flowers for my flower-pot ; a few wild lemon flowers, some 
clover, some yellow primrose, some parsley, and one or two others. 
In one place came across a dead dog, and two other dogs lying by 
him. In a few steps beyond, saw a flowering almond in full and 
luxurious bloom. So it is in this strange, melancholy world of 
ours. When most pleasantly engaged, you are wounded and 
grieved by some revolting spectacle, and again in a moment de- 
lighted with some scene almost too fair and beautiful for aught but. 
heaven. 

April 1st. In the evening looked over my Chinese sermon. At 
first it took me three evenings to prepare a discourse, but now I 
commonly get through very easily in one evening. I find I am 
generally understood, but mistakes are often made by beginners. 
I often wonder how the Chinese can keep such grave faces, when 
they hear such queer combinations as we foreigners sometimes 
make out of their language. The only time they ever laughed at 
a mistake I made, was when I spoke of " Peter's mother's wife," 
instead of " Peter's wife's mother." Even then some of the elder 
hearers seemed scandalized, that the young ones were amused at 
a mistake of " the guest." 

April 3d. Looked a little into a work in Chinese, on astronomy, 
geography, and watch-making, by some of the Roman Catholic 
missionaries of former days. It gives the Ptolemaic system of as- 
tronomy, that the sun and stars move round the earth. In the 
numerous books they published in China, they always explained 
astronomy in the old style, and published books with plates, repre- 
senting the sun and stars revolving round the earth. I have seen 
some of these books. 

Went up to a Leang-ting, where I preached my first Chinese 
sermon last year. These are covered resting-places with stone 
seats, where you may sit down and rest awhile. They are met 
with every two or three miles, and might remind one of the arbor 
on the hill Difficulty, made for the refreshment of the pilgrims, if 
they were not, in nine cases out of ten, built alongside of an idol 
temple. In this populous country you cannot sit down five min- 
utes in one of these places, without having several people gather 



JOURNAL AT NINGPO. 417 

round you. To-day there were twelve or fifteen persons, and I 
talked to them on the folly of idolatry, the true God, the sinful- 
ness of man, and Christ the only Saviour. After talking ten or 
fifteen minutes, I gave away what tracts I had with me, and left 
them with a hearty good-by on both sides. 

April 4th. Preached to-day, in course, on the Seventh Command- 
ment to a pretty large audience. 

April 17th. The people are now preparing their nursery beds for 
rice ; in a few the rice is already sown, but in most the water is 
merely let in, and the beds are little else than so many dishes of 
wet mud, six inches deep. 

April 19th. An excessively hot day ; thermometer at 97° for 
some hours. Ripe cherries to-day, but not very good. 

April 21st. Green peas to-day. There are shad in the market, 
but at present very dear, about half a dollar a pound. 

April 24th. A poor crazy man has been lingering about, near my 
house, most of the day. He looks from his dress and counte- 
nance, as if he suffered but little for want of the comforts of life. 
When I first saw him he was kneeling on the grass by the side 
of my house, and chanting a book of Buddhist prayers, making 
occasional prostrations ; seeing me watching him he got up and 
went farther off, and then walked backwards and forwards, chant- 
ing his book, and making bows. Quite a crowd looked at him, 
which seemed not to please him, for he hastily put his book under 
his arm and went off. Just now, half-past eight, p. m., I hear 
him again singing out lustily, O me to fuh ! but some of his 
friends seem to be persuading him to go home. Is this a case of 
religious madness ? 

April 25th. Preached to some twenty or thirty persons on the 
Tenth Commandment, and was favored with a good deal of fluency 
in speech. Several were very attentive ; and after sitting down, I 
got into a conversation which lasted more than an hour, in refer- 
ence to idolatry, creation, redemption, the creed, &c. On the 
whole, it was a very satisfactory meeting, yet alas ! without the 
Spirit of God, of what avail is it all ? The people laugh at their 
idols, but go and worship them still. 

After dismissing the audience, I found a couple of natives 
of the place, a Mr. Tai, and a Mr. Leu, waiting to speak with 
me. I had seen them both before, and the first of them several 
times. He was first led to think about Christianity, by a Chinese 
who came up here with Dr. Macgowan, and who first brought 
him to my notice. Last week he sent me a letter requesting bap- 
tism, and came to-day to speak about it. He said that himself 
and his friend, Mr. Leu, and another, Mr. Chow, whom I have 
also seen, are all pretty much decided for Christianity ; and 
though, as he says, he is much laughed at and reviled by his 
friends, yet he professes a determination to persevere even until 
death. I had a tolerably satisfactory conversation with them, and 
we prayed together. 

27 



418 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

Worship of ancestors is one of the great features of the Chinese 
religion ; every family has a picture of the father and mother, to 
which incense is offered, and religious worship performed. Mr. 
Tai asked what he should do? He said he had taken down the 
pictures and laid them away, and has fully determined not to 
worship them any more ; " and if I should deceive you by saying 
I do not worship them, when I do worship them, yet I could not 
deceive God." He has, however, been told he should burn the 
pictures. Now this seems hard, for being portraits of his parents, 
he wishes to keep them just as we would. Does this case fall 
under the rule of destroying every vestige of idolatry, no matter 
what it be? 

April 18th. Finished the first draught of the Shorter Catechism 
in Chinese, and May 11th, finished revision of it with teacher. 

May 10th. Suffering greatly from drought ; very little rain has 
fallen during the winter, though as there was no cultivation of 
any consequence and no irrigation, the canals have kept full. 
But of late, since the planting of rice commenced, the water in the 
canals has been in great measure used up, and some of them are 
quite dry. The Kin too, or prohibition of slaughtering pork, has 
been enforced of late, to propitiate the gods ; but as yet very slight 
showers mock our hopes, and some apprehension is felt for the 
result on the crops. 

In some fields, the rice is already transplanted ; but in most of 
them, the cabbage is only removed and the water being let in on 
them. 

May 16th. Preached to-day on Heaven ; but it was talking of 
things in which the people seemed to feel that they had little con- 
cern. Had more satisfaction in a short extempore address I made 
afterwards, on the main object of Christianity. Two or three 
inquirers were present, who have been attending at Dr. Macgow- 
an's, but of late have shown a disposition, entirely of their own, to 
come to me. I asked two of them to make some remarks, as I 
knew they had been in the habit of talking on the subject of 
Christianity. They both did so ; what they said was good 
enough, but it did not seem very direct or impressive. 

I find the Commentary on Luke takes very well ; one of them 
inquired with much interest, if any more or other books would be 
published, remarking that it was very hard to understand our 
Scriptures without them, which is true. The drought still 
continues. 

May 22d. Very heavy rains. The prohibition of slaughtering 
pork removed ; the rains, however, lasted only one day. 

May 24th. Started with Mr. Cole in a boat for Chapoo, I 
meaning to go from thence to Shanghai, and he to Pooto. Left 
Ningpo at ten o'clock, p. m., and expected to leave Chinhai at 
daylight next morning. 

May 25th. Found the boatmen determined not to go till next 
day; many excuses; first, that they did not know the route to 



JOURNAL EN ROUTE TO SHANGHAI. 419 

Chapoo, and must get another boatman to go along ; then, that 
they had some repairing to do, &c. Entreaties, threats, and 
promises were useless, and we found ourselves under the necessity 
of submitting. I suspect that they wish to smuggle some opium 
from here to Chapoo, under cover of foreign protection, and having 
made an agreement to do so, they are determined on so doing, as 
they would thereby make money. There being no help, we went 
ashore and rambled about Chinhai, and up to Cho paou sau, a 
Buddhist temple on top of the hill which overlooks the city, and 
from which there is a splendid view by sea and by land ; nothing 
particular to see in the temple. It is ascended by three hundred 
and twenty-three steps, many of them cut out of the rock. One of 
the monks was quite unable to tell the names of the attendant 
deities in the hall of Kwan Yin ! 

The city is apparently not more than a mile square, and not at all 
thickly settled ; one-third of the interior is occupied with rice-fields. 
The people, children, and dogs were very civil. 

May 26th. Wednesday. Started about two o'clock, a. m., and 
got out of the harbor of Chinhai, but found it so calm that we could 
not make head against the tide, and came to anchor. Favorable 
tide at six o'clock, a. m., and with light wind went on well till about 
noon ; got nearly half way to Chapoo ; tide turning and wind light, 
had to anchor. Wind becoming stronger and tide slackening, up 
anchor at five, and went on : but the wind soon came out dead 
ahead, and looked squally. About six, blew pretty hard, and all 
at once the boatmen put the helm down and turned back to Chin- 
hai ! They said it was going to blow hard, they could make no 
progress against the wind, and there was no place to anchor during 
the night. Several boats ahead of us also turned back, and as the 
Chinese " are good barometers," we did not like to insist on their 
going ahead. But though the wind was fair and strong for Chin- 
hai, yet such was the strength of the adverse tide, that we could 
make no progress whatever against it, and it was not till midnight 
that we found ourselves going ahead. It was now blowing pretty 
hard, raining, and a tolerably heavy sea, so that we were not 
sorry when the anchor was dropped in Chinhai, twenty-four hours 
after we had left it. I am not very successful in sea voyages. 

May 27th. Thursday. Strong wind and dull weather, and no 
prospect of getting off to-day. As Mr. Cole was anxious to go on 
to Pooto, I looked about among the boats, and found another going 
to Chapoo, as soon as the weather would permit. Although the 
accommodations were of the most contracted kind possible, yet the 
boat offered several advantages, and I engaged a passage. The 
weather however continued such that going was quite impossible, 
and as Mr. Cole could not go to Pooto, I spent the afternoon and 
night in his boat. 

May 28th. Friday morning opened with rain, as if it might con- 
tinue long ; but about seven it cleared off somewhat, and as the 
weather gave some indications of clearing off, and the wind came 



420 MEMOIR OF "WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

from the south, the boatmen gave rue some hopes of getting off to- 
night or to-morrow morning ! Patience — " Let patience have her 
perfect work." Azhih came down from Ningpo with some letters 
for me from home, and I concluded to send Apuen back and take 
Azhih along, as I had originally intended, but which his sickness 
on Monday prevented. 

May 29th. Saturday opened very dull indeed ; wind fair, but 
weather dark, and raining at times. Boatmen said they could 
not go to-day ; so I said, I could not go to-morrow, as it will be 
Sunday. This brought them to a decision, and after some con- 
sultation, the head man came and said they would start in the 
evening, and if the wind continued fair, one tide would take us to 
Chapoo. They were very anxious to have us go, for there are 
many pirates about just now, and the presence and flag of a for- 
eigner is a protection not to be despised. I carry no arms, but 
such is the terror in all this part of the country of foreigners, that 
it is thought no pirates would venture to attack a boat which had 
one on board. Not only my own boatmen, but those of nine or 
ten other boats which are going together to Chapoo, expect mate- 
rial protection from my presence alone. I do not like going just 
now, for it will oblige me to spend the Sabbath on the road ; but I 
do not well know how to avoid this, for the Convention meets on 
Tuesday, and for me to wait at Chinhai till Monday will make it 
impossible to be there in time ; doubtful whether I can be in time 
as it is, but I hope to be in Chapoo during the night, and by get- 
ting a boat early in the morning, and stopping at some quiet 
place on the canal, I can spend the Sabbath in peace. 
, Left Chinhai at noon, and anchored under " Joshouse hill" till 
about five, p. m., when the tide set fair for Chapoo, and with a fair 
wind we made sail. It was a beautiful afternoon, and the sun set 
without a cloud. My boat was filled up with one hundred and 
sixteen bales of mats, each containing seventy-five mats, in all 8,700, 
besides other things. This^ filled it so full as hardly to leave room 
to move. There were seven boatmen, six Chinese passengers, 
and myself. The apartment I occupied was about eight feet 
square, and in the middle high enough for me to sit not very com- 
fortably. This was occupied by myself, to whom was given the 
back part, as the most retired, and by my servant, a Chinese 
passenger and his servant, and another passenger, who turned out 
to be an acquaintance of Azhih. It was " pretty thick" work ; 
master and man were close together, and it was hard to say tc 
whom the various arms and legs belonged ; outside was no better, 
for the boatmen were as crowded as we were. Among the boat- 
men was one much given to story telling, and he amused the other 
boatmen and the passengers for two or three hours, with an inces- 
sant stream of talk. 

We went on finely, and got to Chapoo very soon after midnight ; 
but owing to the crowded and close state of the apartment, I slept 



JOURNAL ON ROUTE TO SHANGHAI. 421 

very little all night. The rest of the company, however, seemed 
to feel little inconvenience. 

Sabbath. In the morning found the receding tide had left our 
boat high and dry in the mud, and the only way to get to shore, 
nearly a quarter of a mile off, was by wading through the mud, 
or going in a chair. Had the boat been at all comfortable, I 
should have stayed and spent the Sabbath in her, but the idea of 
spending a Sabbath in such a confined apartment, on a mud flat, 
and with people busy taking out the cargo, was not agreeable. 
So I sent Azhih off to get a boat for Shanghai. He got one for 
twenty-six hundred cash, not quite two dollars; but when I got 
there, and they found it was a " Red haired man," they insisted 
on five dollars. We agreed at last on four thousand cash, nearly 
three dollars, the day to be spent at some quiet place, and to pro- 
ceed to Shanghai to-morrow. It was about eight o'clock when 
we got to the entrance of the canal leading to Shanghai and Soo- 
chow. The wind was fair and strong for Shanghai, and the boat- 
men would have liked much to have gone on, but as they knew 
the increase of their pay depended partly on staying, they said 
little, and fastened the boat stem and stern to a couple of lines at 
-the side of the canal. 

I now began to feel the effects of the accommodations and sleep- 
lessness of the night, in a headache, which, though not severe, 
effectually prevented all reading till about noon. Otherwise my 
situation was very pleasant, and the Sabbath passed quietly away. 

I could not avoid noticing the immense number of boats of all 
shapes and sizes, which went out from Chapoo, and passed us on 
their way to Shanghai, Soochow, and other places. It would cer- 
tainly be a moderate estimate to say that in four hours ; there were 
upwards of three hundred boats, and perhaps twice that number 
Avould be nearer the truth, for in the little reach of the canal, about 
quarter of a mile long, where my boat is moored, there was never 
less than one boat passing through, and frequently from four to 
ten at the same time. 

The dialect of Chapoo is so much like that of Ningpo, that my 
servant finds no difficulty in talking with the people and under- 
standing them. It has some peculiarities, however, which makes 
it difficult for me at present to understand it ; and I find that they 
understand me much better than I do them. 

I did not go into the city. In fact my coming this way at all, 
is against the law ; but as no notice has been taken of several 
persons, who have passed and repassed without permits, I have 
made no scruple in walking through such of the streets as was 
necessary in getting to the boat. Crowds collected to see me, but 
I observed no rudeness, and but seldom heard the term " white 
devil," which, indeed, is often used without intending any insult. 
Chapoo is the town where the English met with the fiercest re- 
sistance, as it is partly inhabited by Manchus, who are much 
braver than the Chinese. It would seem, from the number of 



422 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWE IE. 

boats to be a place of some business and population, though I sup- 
pose the canal I am now on, is the greatest of all the arteries that 
issue from it. 

May 31st. Monday. Started during the night, and on going out 
in the morning about sunrise, found ourselves at a thriving town, 
called San Kew, twenty-seven le from Chapoo, or about nine miles. 

The canal was here quite wide and deep, and at each end of 
the town was crossed by a beautiful arched bridge. The hand- 
somest tower I have seen in China stood by one of the bridges. 
It was five stories high, had galleries all round in each story, 
sounding bells attached to the cornices, ropes passing up and 
down, with some beautiful trees close by, and the whole looked 
new and clean. For many miles we passed on through a country 
occupied with fields of wheat, and stalk-beans nearly ripe. The 
people have not yet commenced their rice, but will in a very few 
days ; they are three weeks behind those of Ningpo. The banks 
of the canal are lined with willows or mulberry trees to feed 
silk-worms, and the water-wheels are generally covered with 
thatched roofs, which is quite an improvement on the plan at 
Ningpo, where no such care is shown. I did not observe when 
we left the canal for the Hwangpoo river, but it was some time 
during the forenoon. We made pretty good progress till about 
noon, when we were thirty-seven miles from Shanghai, where we 
found the tide unfavorable, and as we were now beating by long 
tacks against the wind, we came to anchor and got dinner. Pro- 
ceeded again about dark, but had to anchor during the next tide. 
Went on again at daylight on Tuesday, and by seven o'clock 
leached Shanghai. A forest of masts of junks filled the river, 
but there were no foreign ships. Found my way to Bishop 
Boone's without difficulty, and after breakfast went out with Mr. 
Syle, to call on some of the foreign merchants and the mission- 
aries. The foreign residences form quite a town, and when all 
are finished will be a settlement quite unequalled in China. Some 
of them are very expensive, and everything indicates an expecta- 
tion of this place becoming, at no distant day, the head-quarters 
of influence in China. Called on Messrs. Medhurst, Milne, and 
Lockhart, but did not stay long at either place. 

In the evening, went over the river with Dr. Boone, Mrs. Boone, 
and a number of others, and walked among the rice-fields ; after- 
wards, all spent the evening at Dr. Boone's, and so closed the first 
day of a residence in Shanghai, which they all tell me will extend 
to six months or a year, a length of time which I had not at all 
anticipated. 



Shanghai, June 3d, 1847. 
My Dear Father — 

In some of my previous letters, I mentioned to you my expec- 
tation of visiting this place. The object is to be present at the 



LETTERS. 423 

Convention for the revision of the translation of the New Testa- 
ment, to which I have been appointed one of the delegates. The 
other delegates are Drs. Medhurst, Boone, Bridgeman, and Mr. J. 
Stronach. I do not yet know of any others, and presume there 
are no others. Bridgeman and Stronach are not here yet, but are 
expected daily. I supposed the Convention would not sit more 
than sis or seven weeks, but every one here seems to think that 
six months is the shortest possible time, and a year is spoken of 
as more probable. The work is important enough, no doubt, to 
deserve so much time, though I have some doubts as to the ex- 
pediency of it just now. However, as I am the youngest and 
least skilled in Chinese of all the members, I do not expect to do 
very much, except to look on and see what is done. In the mean 
time, I expect to pursue my Chinese studies, much as at Ningpo, 
except that I fear I shall lose in the practice in the colloquial of 
that place. The dialect here is a good deal like that of Ningpo, 
and yet so much unlike, that while I can make myself tolerably 
well understood, I find a good deal of difficulty in understanding 
others ; but a little practice will assist me. 

I left Ningpo, May 24th, but owing to adverse winds, had to lie 
at the mouth of the river till the 29th. I then came by way of 
Chapoo to this place in three days, one of which, being the Sab- 
bath, was spent at anchor in the canal. I did not apply for a per- 
mit to come by the way of Chapoo, and met no molestation or 
hinderance in passing through that place. The route from Ningpo 
to Shanghai, via Chapoo, may now be considered an open route, 
as several foreigners have passed both ways, and no notice has 
been taken of it by the Chinese authorities. It is a great con- 
venience to us, and is one among the many evidences, how the 
country is opening. Chang-Chow, where the visit, of Mr. Abeel 
and myself made so much noise, some years ago, has been vis- 
ited several times of late, and I have no doubt that the country 
will be as wide open in a few years as we can desire it. 

Your letter of December 17th reached me last week, also two 
mission letters of November and December 

I have referred so often to my Dictionary, that I am afraid you 
will be tired of the very mention of it, but I will trouble you once 
more. I have collected all the significations of all the words in 
the Four Books, and have concluded to go on with the work so as 
to include the Five Classics, though perhaps I may not include 
the Le Ke, a large and for the most part very trifling and useless 
work. In the Four Books there are in all two thousand three 
hundred and forty-five different characters, and in the Four Books 
and Five Classics, the Le Ke excepted, there are rather more than 
four thousand and two hundred. I may perhaps send a list of 
them some day, from which you will see that the great body of 
the language is contained in them, i. e., the great body of the 
really useful characters. Now, my plan is to give each of these 
characters with its pronunciation in Mandarin, and in the dialect 



424 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

of each of the five ports now open to foreigners. Then to give 
the etymology of the word from native dictionaries, where I think 
such etymology worth notice. Then to give the different signifi- 
cations, whether as verbs, nouns, adjectives, &c, and at least one 
quotation to illustrate each signification, with reference to the 
page and line where found. This will be the body of the work : 
but my plan includes a good deal more, for as the whole of the 
ancient history, geography, &c. of China is contained in these 
Four Books and Five Classics, I want my work to be a sort of 
" Classical Dictionary" on these points. Hence I propose short 
biographical, historical, geographical sketches under the appro- 
priate characters, with references to such native and foreign 
authors as may give the student fuller details. You see this is a 
pretty extensive plan. As to time, I have no idea that I can do it 
in less than five years, without neglecting other works which I 
think are entitled to the first place. 

But here I am met by a great difficulty. We have few books 
in Ningpo. My library is by far the best there, and yet it is a 
poor thing compared with some that are in China, and it is miser- 
ably deficient in works relating to China, many of which are 
quite essential to me, in carrying on my undertaking. Is there 
any way of supplying this want ? The books I refer to would 
cost I suppose some five hundred dollars, and would be of great 
service, not merely to myself, but to all our mission, and I think 
ought to be possessed in a mission like ours. I will make out a 
list of them in a few days, and send to you by next mail. I 
mentioned several of them in some former letters, which I hope 
you will be able to procure. They are all to be had in Paris or 
Berlin. . . . 

My health is very good, and I remain as ever. 

Your affectionate son, 

W. M. Lowrie. 

Shanghai, June 4th, 1847. 
My Dear Mother — 

. . . . I am now staying at Bishop Boone's, and see as much 
company in a day as I did in Ningpo in a month. I do not know 
yet how long I am to stay at Shanghai, but I suppose at least six 
months, to my great regret. I shall be glad if it be not a year. 
The change of scene and air and employment has done me good, 
for I had begun to " run down" in Ningpo, and lost both appetite 
and flesh. This, however, did not alarm me, for it has been so 
every summer since my coming to China. . . . 

The changes here since my visit two years ago, are quite sur- 
prising. A whole new town of foreign houses has sprung up since 
then, and some of them are quite magnificent. It will soon be 
the Canton of the North, but give me Ningpo for a residence and 
for missionary labors. 



LETTERS. 425 

I believe you do not know anybody here, so I have nothing to 
say about them to-day. . . . 

Ever affectionately yours, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



Shanghai, July 23d, 1847. 
Rev. John C. Lowrie — 

My Dear Brother : — I am in your debt for several letters, 
which I must now endeavor to repay. I have been here nearly 
two months, and as yet am quite unable to give any definite idea 
when we shall get through. Owing to the uncertainty of travel- 
ling up and down this coast, some members of the Convention did 
not get here till the 28th ult. ; while I, who was punctual to the 
day, had to wait on my oars from the 1st ult. After we got to- 
gether, all went on well for a week, when we were stopped by a 
question which has excited no little talk and writing for some time, 
" What is the proper word for God in Chinese ?" Morrison and 
Milne have adopted the word jfiffl Shin, which, according to the 
best judgment I can form, means God, or Divinity in general. 
Mr. Med hurst for many years used the same term, and even so 
late as this present year, 1847, has published a dictionary in which 
he says, " The Chinese themselves, for God, and invisible beings 
in general, use jjjffl shin." But some twelve years ago or more, he 
began to use p ■^ Shang Te, Supreme ruler, for the true 
God, and jjjA shin for false god. Mr. Gutslaff also did the same ; 
and these two being the best and most experienced Chinese schol- 
ars, had of course great weight. And most of the missionaries 
were carried away by their example. For some years past, how- 
ever, there has been a good deal said on the subject, and a strong 
disposition manifested to return to the old way. h *tt Shang Te 
is objected to, first, as being the distinctive title of the national de- 
ity of China, and hence something like the Jupiter of Rome ; and 
second, it is not a generic term, and cannot be used in such pas- 
sages as " Chemosh thy God, and Jehovah our God," " If Jehovah 
be God," &c. " The unknown God, him declare I unto you," 
&c. In fact there are many verses where the point and emphasis 
rests on the use of the same generic word all through, as in John 
x. 35, 36, 1 Cor. viii. 6, &c. Hence of late many of the mission- 
aries wish to return to the old word, and a good deal has been 
written in the Chinese Repository, and a great-deal said on the 
subject. Dr. Medhurst, however, has taken up the cudgels in 
earnest, and printed a book of nearly three hundred pages, in 
which he maintains that f j+J shin, never means god, much less 
the supreme God. This, by the way, is in opposition to three dic- 
tionaries of his own, published in the last ten years. And he fur- 



426 



MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 



ther maintains that fff te, which properly means ruler, is the gen- 
eric term for God in Chinese ; and that U &? Shang Te, "High 
or Supreme Ruler," is the proper word to translate Elohim and 
Theos, when they refer to the true God. So the case stood when 
the Convention met. "We went on with the revision very well, till 
we came to Matt. i. 23, where the word Theos occurs. Dr. Bridg- 
man then proposed that we use the word jfiA Shin. Bishop Boone 
seconded this ; and it was well known that my views coincided 
with theirs. Dr. Medhurst and Mr. Stronach, took decided ground 
for j-^ ffr SJiang Te : and so we have now been discussing this 
question for three weeks, Medhurst and Boone being chief speak- 
ers. The latter is a superior debater, and having a very quick 
and logical mind, pressed Dr. Medhurst so closely, that he declared 
he must have all down in black and white. We agreed to this, 
and Bishop Boone and myself worked hard for a week, and wrote 
out an argument for ffij^j Shin, covering twenty-six folio pages. 
Mr. Medhurst, who had spent five months in writing his book, 
and scarcely allowed us ten days to answer it, took our answer 
so seriously, that he said he must have some weeks to prepare a 
reply. So he and Mr. Stronach are now engaged on this. I 
greatly fear that the result of all will be, that each side will hold 
their own views, and Dr. Medhurst and Mr. Stronach will secede. 
In that case there will be two versions or none. A large majority 
of the missionaries in China, I believe, are for ffi^ Shin ; most of 
our missionaries are strongly for it, though one or two hesi- 
tate a little ; all the Baptists ; all the Episcopalians, both Eng- 
lish and Americans ; most of the American Board missionaries, 
and several even of the London Missionary Society. This of it- 
self is a strong proof for jfij+f Shin, for it shows that even the ac- 
knowledged Chinese scholarship of Medhurst and Gutzlaff is not 
able to command assent for h to£ Shang Te. But I did not 
mean to write so much on this. 

. . . This summer, so far, has been very pleasant. ; nothing like 
so hot as last year. I am staying at Bishop Boone's, where they 
make me feel very comfortable. Hitherto our agreement of views 
on the question we have been discussing, has made us the best of 
friends. He is of course a strong Episcopalian, but withal very 
catholic, and speaks very cordially of " other churches" and their 
ministers as " ministers of Christ." He has shown an excellent 
spirit, thus far, in the convention. 

Mr. Milne often speaks of you with much kindness. He and 
Medhurst and Stronach, are all well. Believe me ever, 
Your affectionate brother, 

W. M. Lowrie. 



LETTERS. 427 

Shanghai, 29th July, 1847. 
My Dear Father — 

.... I think it probable that we shall have the remainder of the 
discussions respecting the term for God next week. It is my daily 
prayer that we may be directed to a right conclusion. The im- 
portance of the subject seems to grow the more it is examined, 
though this is often the case, even in unimportant matters, when 
the mind is intently fixed on them ; and the more examination I 
give it, the more I feel satisfied that without the generic term for 
God, it will be extremely difficult to give the Chinese correct ideas 
of our theology. If that word be not Shin, I am utterly unable 
to see what it is. Dr. Medhurst now says it is Te, but this is an 
idea taken up within the last five months, and is in opposition to 
all his own dictionaries, and translations, and to all the experience 
of all who have ever written in or on the language. I make my 
remarks in this sweeping style, because convinced of their truth. 
Even the Chinese say, " We don't use the word Te in that sense." 
Oh for the Spirit of wisdom and grace to direct us ! It is a mat- 
ter of much thankfulness that Dr. Boone's health permits him to 
take an active part in the discussion ; as the character of his mind 
and acquirements, and his readiness as a debater, are of the utmost 
importance in discussing with Dr. Medhurst. Having no fondness 
for such contests, I say but little ; but spend a good deal of time 
with Dr. B. in examining the subject in the native Chinese authors. 

I hope in the next overland to be able to give an account of the 
close of the discussion. In the meantime, I suppose it will be bet- 
ter not to publish anything about it, beyond the general fact of 
the Convention being in session. 

I am anxious to study the Manchu Tartar, a language not 
studied as yet by any one of the missionaries, but of great import- 
ance in explaining Chinese, as the French scholars have shown 
in their books published in France ; and which, as this country 
becomes open to us, and allows us to go further north, will be 
found to be of great utility. See an article on this subject in the 
Chinese Repository of 1844, by Mr. Cushing. For this, I would 
like the following books : — Gerbillon, Elementa Lingua Tartarica ; 
Amyot, Grammaire Tartare Mantchou ; Langles, Dictionnaire 
Tartare Mantchou Francais, 3 vols. 4to ; Klaproth, Chrestoma- 
thie Mandchou : Paris, 1828. 

So far the summer is very pleasant, and my health better than 
in any previous summer. . . . 

Your very affectionate son, W. M. Lowrie. 



Shanghai, August 8th, 1847. 
Rev. Joseph Owen — 

Dear Brother : — I wrote to you some time ago a letter which 
[ hope you have received. I now write on a special occasion, and 



428 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

shall be very glad if you can give me a pretty full answer by 
return mail. I am here attending a Convention for revising the 
Translation of the New Testament into Chinese. We are divi- 
ded on one point of great importance. Some of us in transla- 
ting Dvnbx and Qeog, wish to use the word jfirfj Shin., which is 
the Chinese term for God, or Divinity in general. It is applied to 
all their gods, from the highest to the lowest, and to the spirits of 
ancestors, which are always deified and worshipped by their de- 
scendants ; and the being who is supposed to be in all their idols 
is also called jjjti| Shin. Hence it is the generic term for God, 
just as Qsog : (" Gods many and Lords many, but to us one God," 
&c.) Others of us prefer the term |- >jfe Shang-te, which means 

Supreme Ruler, and is the name or title of the chief divinity 
worshipped by the Chinese. This is not a generic term, nor ca- 
pable of being applied alike to true and false gods, nor of being 
used in the plural. Such is the state of the case. 

What I want to ask is, what is the custom in India? Do you 
find any term applied by the natives to all their gods 1 And do 
you use this term, and say, " You worship many gods, but they 
are false, and we preach to you the true God ?" Or do you use 
a distinct term, in speaking of the true God, from that used to 
designate false gods ? 

Some say that in Arabic there is one term for the true God, 
which is used for him alone, and others for false gods ; and that 
in such sentences as " Chemosh thy god, and Jehovah our God," 
(Judges xi. 24.) different words are used to express the word 
o-inibx. Is this so? Any light you can give us will be very 
valuable. Please direct to me at this place, care of Rt. Rev. 
W. J. Boone, D. D., Shanghai, as I shall probably be here when 
your answer comes. 

The question is a very important one here, and has been a good 
deal discussed. Medhurst, and Gutzlaff, and John Stronach, are 
the chief advocates of H ^5- Shang-te ; Legge, Bridgman, 
Boone, and myself, are among the supporters of jjjrf-f Shin, as were 

Morrison and Milne before, and a majority of the present mission- 
aries in China. 

My health is very good, as is that of most of the members of 
our mission, saving the languor produced by the heat of summer. 
Poor Brother Speer has lost both his wife and daughter. Dr. 
Medhurst preaches three times every Sabbath, and twice during 
the week, to audiences varying from one hundred to four hundred 
persons. Two or three persons have been baptized here, and as 
many in Ningpo, and, on the whole, we are encouraged. 

With kind regards to Mrs. Owen, and a kiss to your son, be- 
lieve me, in haste, ever 

Affect'onately yours, W. M. Lowrie. 



ON THE REAL TRIALS OF A MISSIONARY. 429 

P. S. Do not delay to answer my inquiries. If you have any 
pamphlets on this subject which you can spare, I would like to 
see them. 



Ningpo, November 3d, 1847. 
Walter Lowrie, Esq.. — 

My Dear Sir : — I send to you, by this opportunity, a long ar- 
ticle, which I found among the papers of your much lamented son, 
which were sent down from Shanghai. I have been deeply inter- 
ested in reading it, and if published, it will now speak with more 
powerful effect to those to whom it is addressed, because the be- 
loved author has gone to receive his reward where these trials will 
be known no more forever. I have often conversed with him on 
the subject of which the paper treats, and many of the sentimeuts 
it contains, I have heard him repeat frequently in conversation — 
sentiments to which I can subscribe with all my heart, though to 
many of them not so feelingly as he could. . . . 
Affectionately yours in Christ, 

M. S. CULBERTSON. 

It is high time that the romance of missions were done away. 
It is high time that not merely the missionaries themselves, but 
the churches who send them out and pray for them, and wait to 
hear of their successes, should form sober and just views of the 
various parts of the missionary work. Yet I know of few harder 
things to be done than this. Owing to improper and highly col- 
ored statements early laid before the Christian public, and to the 
even yet too common practice of presenting only one side of the 
picture, in platform speeches, the idea has become engrained in the 
minds of multitudes of Christians, that the missionary work is 
something radically different from that of the ministry at home. 
Moreover, there are comparatively few of the members of our 
churches who appreciate aright the state of the heathen. Vague 
general impressions of great wickedness, are nearly all that most 
people have of the condition of idolaters. One of the worst conse- 
quences of this vagueness of impression is, that Christians form no 
definite or accurate conception of the nature of the work to be 
performed. They are perpetually applying to the heathen their 
knowledge of what exists among Christian communities ; or per- 
haps more properly it is this : Many Christians think of missiona- 
ries as beings almost above the ordinary vicissitudes and weak- 
nesses of humanity ; as having already " begun to enjoy heaven ;" 
and they think of the heathen as certainly possessing much of the 
general knowledge which is so commonly possessed at home, that 
no one thinks of recollecting where he learned it. 

Now the influence of these two mistakes is most injurious. It 
is easy for the missionary to see the injury they produce , but it is 
not so easy to remedy them. I know of hardly any way in which 



430 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

they can be remedied, except by the missionary opening - up and 
spreading out his own heart and his own feelings before the 
Christian public. Could our brethren at home but see the heathen 
as we see them, and share our feelings as we look upon them, a 
more sober and practical view of things would soon possess the 
minds of the churches. It may be said, " Well, this is a very sim- 
ple affair. Why do you not thus tell us what you think and feel ?" 
Because, brethren, simple though it seems, it is one of the hardest 
and most perilous things a man can attempt to do. When a 
man talks of himself and of his own feelings, he is almost sure 
to be betrayed into egotism, and egotism will rarely fail to give 
disgust. It is a very hard thing for a man to talk of his own say- 
ings and doings, without mingling a little more of himself in what 
he says than he ought ; and the consciousness of this keeps many 
a man on mere generalities or descriptions, which excite little 
interest, while his own feelings, which would thrill through your 
very hearts, are carefully and purposely, and in many cases wisely 
kept in the recesses of his own bosom. 

It is a blessing to any Missionary Society when it possesses 
among its missionaries one or more of those humble, simple- 
minded, sincere laborers, who can talk of themselves, and reveal 
their own feelings without offence, or giving rise to the thought 
that they are seeking to make themselves conspicuous. Such a 
man was the late Rev. R. W. Sawyer. Few communications 
more deeply interesting than his have appeared in our Missionary 
Chronicle ; and the reason mainly was, that the feelings of the 
man were simply and truthfully depicted in his journals. There 
was in them no effort at display ; those who knew the man would 
never suspect him of such a motive. Had it pleased God to spare 
his life, Ave might have hoped in a few years to have had a series 
of communications from him, which, stating simply the true con- 
dition of the heathen, and giving his own earnest feelings along 
therewith, would have rectified the views of many respecting the 
character of missionary labors in heathen lands. But he has gone 
to an early grave, and to his crown in the heavens. 

The writer of this is not competent to do what Brother Sawyer 
might have done. He feels that he does not possess that meek, 
unambitious spirit, and that for him to attempt to write thus 
fully and frankly, would be to expose himself to the charge of os- 
tentatiously parading his own emotions, a thing that would defeat 
the very object of such communications. Yet being deeply anx- 
ious to correct some of the misconceptions that prevail, I shall en- 
deavor in this essay to give, in a somewhat general form, some of 
the facts and feelings with which myself and other missionaries 
have been conversant. If in doing this, I should after all fall into 
the error above referred to, it will only be an additional proof of 
the truth of the remark ; and may I not hope that those who may 
detect the error, or the sin, will at least be convinced by it, that 
missionaries are men of like passions with others, and must be 



ON THE REAL TRIALS OF A MISSIONARY. 431 

sustained by God's grace, and the prayers of God's people, that 
they may rightly prosecute their work among the heathen. 

Much misapprehension exists at home as to the nature of the 
trials of missionaries in heathen lands. Even yet there are those 
who fancy that they consist almost wholly in temporal or bodily 
privations. Now the truth is, that though there are outward trials 
experienced by missionaries, and some which would call forth 
many complaints from some who dwell in their " ceiled houses" at 
home, yet in most missions these are the trials that give least un- 
easiness. In fact, in most mission stations, the missionary lives in 
a state of bodily comfort, such as your backwoods' ministers and 
domestic missionaries might envy. The new missionary, with his 
romantic feelings fresh in him, and his ignorance of the wants of a 
strange climate, is sometimes surprised at the state of comfort in 
which he finds his predecessors living ; and cases have occurred, 
where, on the details of their mode of life being communicated at 
home, no small ill-feeling and dissatisfaction has been produced 
among warm friends of missions. I will not deny that, in some 
cases, more time and more expense have been bestowed by the 
missionary, in making his nest comfortable, than ought to have 
been given ; but I am persuaded that, were the churches fully 
aware of the state of things produced by the climate, character of 
the people, and nature of the work to be performed, they would 
feel that too little attention has been given by the missionaries to 
their bodily condition. The remark is frequently made in the 
East, by those who have longest lived here, that American mis- 
sionaries are too economical ; and I certainly know of cases, where 
the spending of a few more dollars in procuring attendance of ser- 
vants and bodily comforts would have, humanly speaking, averted 
many an hour of suffering and sickness, and perhaps would have 
prevented some of those " returns of missionaries" of which so 
many complaints have been made. 

In hot climates, good houses and a sufficient number of ser- 
vants, are not mere matters of luxury. I have brought on myself 
an atttack of sickness, by going on foot only a short distance in 
the middle of the day, when prudence would have ordered me to 
spend a quarter or a half dollar, and go in a chair carried on 
men's shoulders. It would have been economy too, for the time 
lost by the sickness was of far more value than the few cents 
saved by the course adopted. Some of the complaints made at 
home respecting the extravagance of missionaries strike us here, 
as inconsistent with the expectations entertained by those who make 
them. We are sent here, having among our secondary objects, to 
teach civilization ; and some complain that we live in a civilized 
style. We are sent here to introduce among the people some of 
those refinements that adorn civilized life ; and yet, there are act- 
ually some who complain of a missionary's wife for cultivating 
flowers in her garden, or hanging pictures round her room ! 
Possibly too, some of these austere censors would object to the 



432 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

practice that some of us have, of spending an evening- occasionally 
in visiting at a friend's, where lively conversation occupies the 
time, and little or no direct allusion is made to the great work in 
which we are engaged. I do not refer to these things in a cap- 
tious or fault-finding spirit. Probably there are few who make 
such complaints, and those more from thoughtlessness than from 
settled distrust of the self-denying and laborious spirit of those who 
are the objects of their censures. 

The object of the remainder of this essay will be, to give some 
of the real trials of a missionary. I do not do this as complaining 
of them, but partly for the sake of setting those right, who may 
entertain romantic and consequently erroneous views ; and chiefly 
to beg an interest in the prayers of those who read. Knowing 
our trials, you will know what we need. Knowing what we 
need, you will not fail to beseech God to supply our necessities. 

The missionary's first trial is commonly in the language he has 
to learn, and that in several respects. He comes to his station 
and feels himself on missionary ground. He is astonished and 
almost sickened by sights of idolatry which he had heard of, in- 
deed, at home, but which he now sees with his own eyes. His 
heart is overflowing with the desire to testify against the sins he 
sees, and burning with zeal to urge upon the people repentance 
towards God, and faith towards our Lord Jesus Christ. Oh for 
the tongue of an angel to speak unto them the words of life ! 
Alas ! my brother, your mouth is closed, your tongue is tied. You 
cannot speak with even " stammering lips" in this " other tongue." 
What would you not give now for the gift of tongues ! But there is 
no help for it, and restraining your zeal as you may, or employing 
it in prayer to God, since you cannot speak to men, you sit down 
to your books, with your heathen teacher at your side, and work 
away, in a hot climate, sustained by hope. You are all anxiety 
to learn the language, and you toil away, day and night, forget- 
ting or neglecting the advice and warning of your more expe- 
rienced predecessors. The stock of health and the vigor you have 
brought from your native land, and your sea voyage, sustain you, 
and you feel no particular need of extra care to preserve your 
health. Months pass away. If you are in India, you begin to 
talk some in less than a year ; if in China, during your second 
year. But about this time the impression steals over you, that 
you have not quite so much bodily vigor as you once had ; and if 
you are thoughtful, the fact that you catch yourself reclining on 
a couch at times, when in your own country you would never 
have thought of such an indulgence, leaves the unpleasant con- 
viction on your mind, that though all things in the way of hard 
study may be possible or lawful, yet certainly " all things are not 
expedient ;" and that if you wish for length of years and prolonged 
usefulness in your heathen abode, it must be at the sacrifice of 
some of the diligent and close application that your own climate 
would allow, and your own country would require. 



ON THE REAL TRIALS OF A MISSIONARY. 433 

Sooner or later you begin to talk with your teacher and serv- 
ants, and by degrees you get them to understand that you really 
have not come out to make money, or seek pleasure, or gain 
honor. Perhaps they will think that you are some sort of a re- 
ligious devotee, who expects to merit heaven by the performance 
of good works, and that you have chosen the profession of a mis- 
sionary as that in which your energies are to be spent. How often 
have I heard it said of me, that I was the son of a very rich man, 
who came out here to see the world, and amuse myself! Others, 
again, could not be persuaded that I was not the agent of our 
government, with some confidential errand. Others, again, that 
at the longest I should remain but four or five years, and then go 
back home. If, surmounting all these misapprehensions, you at 
last get those around you to understand your motive, you will 
scarcely avoid being cut to the heart by finding that they do not 
appreciate it in the slightest degree. Although you have come 
out to do them good, and your heart's desire and prayer is, that 
they may be saved, yet you will be highly favored indeed if you 
do not find yourself cheated by your servants, and ridiculed by 
your teacher behind your back, and regarded as an " outside for- 
eigner," and fair game by the community in general. 

You will find, too, that the study of a hard, dry language has 
a disheartening effect on your zeal and ardor as a missionary. 
It is not easy to study out declensions, and cases, and tenses, and 
conjugations, and particles, and to wade through dull tomes of 
heathen learning, nonsensical speculations, and unintelligible 
metaphysics, and at the same time to keep up the freshness and 
simplicity of spirit and the earnestness, that are necessary in 
speaking face to face with an unconverted man. The two things 
are certainly not incompatible ; feut it will not be surprising, if, 
when engaged in such studies, under the influence of an exhaust- 
ing climate, you find yourself losing some of that ardor you felt 
when your foot first rested on a heathen soil, and your eye first 
saw men bowing down to idols. And as by this time you will 
have had the sad proof which experience gives, that the hearts of 
the heathen are not naturally open to receive the gospel, and that 
they are more ready to laugh at your blunders in pronunciation 
than to practise your exhortations to piety, it will not be strange 
if you find some disinclination to open your mouth at all. As 
this is an unexpected difficulty, it may cost you many a painful 
reflection ere you find it removed. 

Here is another difficulty which meets you in the language, and 
one which you never dreamed of when you were preaching or 
talking on religion at home. You are learning a heathen lan- 
guage, and it has few terms to express Christian ideas. What 
word will you use to speak of God ? There is no word in the 
language which is*not polluted by associations with idolatry. If 
you use the name of the highest divinity known to the people, 
they will think you favor their own system of religion. If you. 
28 



434 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

use the abstract term for God, they will ask, " "What God do you 
mean ?" and perhaps will run over the names of half a dozen of 
their principal gods, to see if it be not some one of these you in- 
tend. You say, no ; you mean " the true God." Why, they 
never thought of such a thing as a false god ! They will very 
willingly allow that your God is a true God, but they expect equal 
toleration for their own ; and you will find it no easy matter to 
convince them that when you speak of God, you mean only one. 
How will you tell them of Jesus, that dear name on which all 
your hopes are centered ? It is a stranger to them, and, I speak with 
reverence and with sorrow, the mention of it excites no more emo- 
tion in their minds, than of Caesar, or Pompey, or William, or James. 
How will you tell them of the Spirit? They have not so much 
as heard whether there be a Holy Ghost. Nay, so materialized has 
become their language, that it is very doubtful whether you can 
find a word that means Spirit in it. What will you do for "justi- 
fication," " adoption," " sanctification," "■ effectual calling," " elec- 
tion," " salvation," " faith," and fifty other terms, without which 
no sermon is ever composed, and no prayer ever offered at home? 
You will not find them. You will be surprised to find that even 
the most experienced missionaries are not perfectly agreed as to 
what are the best terms to be used; and you will at last find your- 
self obliged to settle down on the conviction that the language of the 
people must be converted and Christianized, as well as the people 
themselves. 

You have not the gift of tongues, but must learn the language 
by a slow and laborious process ; for the dictionaries, grammars, 
and other helps for learning it, are not quite so good as those 
for learning Latin and Greek. When it is learned, you find it 
is not an instrument all reafly for use ; but that you must 
mould and polish it, to make it express ideas that it never expressed 
before. 

But we will suppose that these first difficulties are overcome ; 
and though you are still far from being a ready speaker, yet you 
can delay no longer, but must deliver your message, whether men 
will hear, or whether they will forbear. You have your first ser- 
mon prepared. You have studied it carefully. You have prayed 
over it. You have wept over it. You prepare your house, or 
chapel, or whatever it may be. You open your doors, and with a 
heart not wholly calm and at ease, you wait for your hearers. 
Do they come, " like clouds, and like doves to their windows ?" 
Not at all. If your house is on a frequented thoroughfare, they 
come tumbling in, as if to a theatre, or a puppet-show. If in a 
more retired situation, they drop in by twos and threes, to see the 
stranger, or to hear and tell of some new thing. After getting 
something like order established, you commence to talk to them ; 
and if you get on better than you expected, you are much gratified. 
Some few give a fixed attention ; and yet if your own eyes are 
about you, you must see that even they are occasionally puzzled 



ON THE REAL TRIALS OF A MISSIONARY. 435 

to know what you mean. The most of your audience, however, 
stare vacantly ; or listen as they would to the chattering of a 
monkey, or the voice of a strange animal. Perhaps some one 
may audibly say he does not understand you ; or perhaps others 
may praise your correct pronunciation, and declare that you must 
be a very talented man to be able to speak their language so well. 
Bat probably in the midst of your discourse, it may be, whilst you 
are delivering some of your most earnest exhortations, two or three 
get up and walk out ; or one man commences an audible conver- 
sation with his neighbor ; another smokes his pipe ; and another 
takes nuts out of his pocket, and very deliberately employs him- 
self in munching them. 

Nevertheless, you are encouraged. Your mouth is at last 
opened ; and you pour out to God the fulness of a grateful heart, 
that to one who is less than the least of all saints is this grace 
given, to preach among the Gentiles the unsearchable riches of 
Christ. On the next Sabbath you go to your place with rather 
more confidence and hope. But perhaps it is a rainy day, and no 
one comes, and you are dreadfully cast down. 

After a few days' experience you begin to be accustomed to the 
fluctuations and f irbulence of a heathen audience, and to feel less 
anxiety as to you. own ability to speak to them. You can now 
observe some things better than at first. One thing that you soon 
notice, is, that few come a second time. Once is enough, when 
they find you are talking of subjects that will neither fill their bel- 
lies, nor clothe their backs, nor put money in their purses. Prob- 
ably enough, a few will come more than once ; but rarely will 
any come regularly. You might care less for this, if those that 
did come, would stay to hear all you have to say at one time ; 
but unless you use some art, or assume some authority, or lock 
your door, you will probably find that half of those who heard the 
beginning, will not hear the end of your discourse ; while all that 
some will get, might not inappropriately be compared to the " two 
legs, or a piece of an ear," that the shepherd taketh out of the 
mouth of the lion. 

You find too, that your hearers are utterly ignorant of most of 
the first principles of the oracles of God. It will take you some 
time to appreciate the thick darkness that covers them. There i? 
" a covering over them, a veil spread over the nations," of which 
those educated in a Christian land can form little conception. No 
child in your Sabbath-schools at home is so ignorant, as is every 
man and woman to whom you preach here. Nor is this strange. 
No mother ever taught them a Catechism ; no church-going bell 
ever sounded in their ears ; no Sabbath ever disturbed their cease- 
less round of business, amusement, and sin. They have bowed 
down to idols, until they think their gods are like themselves; and 
when you attempt to speak to them of Him who made the heavens, 
you bring strange things to their ears. Talk of Jehovah, and they 
at once suppose he is your national god, or perhaps some god of 



436 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

the hills, but not of the valleys. Talk of Jesus and the Resurrec- 
tion, and they will say you are " a setter forth of strange gods." 
They never heard of Jesus. Tell them he is the Son of God, 
and they begin to ask about God's wife, and how many children 
he has. Tell them of Abraham, and Moses, and David, and Eli- 
jah, and Paul, and John, and the names are totally new. They 
never heard them before, and they awaken no associations in their 
minds. Tell them of the wonders of the creation and the deluge, 
of the plagues of Egypt and the flames of Sinai, the desert and 
the Jordan, and the Promised Land, and if they find no difficulty 
in believing you, it is because their own books tell them tales as 
wonderful as these, and believed with as implicit a faith as the 
Bible is by us. Tell them of the miraculous conception of our 
Lord, and they are rather pleased to hear it ; for in their histories 
there are several instances of the same nature recorded. Miracles 
make little impression on their minds, for they have read of many 
equally wonderful, and their minds, untrained to weigh evidence 
and balance testimonies, place the same confidence in lying le- 
gends as in the Scriptures of truth. What hold have you on such 
minds as these? And when, leaving the sphere of miracles and 
external evidences, you come to the holy law and the internal evi- 
dences of religion, which after all are the only ones you have to 
depend on here, you are met by new difficulties. It is said of the 
Indians of America, that when discovered by Columbus, they were 
so ignorant of the character and power of their new visitors, that 
they played with the most dangerous tools, and caught the naked 
sword blades with their hands, not knowing that they would cut. It 
is so here. Wield the " sword of the Spirit," as you will, if it is you 
alone that wields it, it will make no impression. Their seared 
consciences will suffer its sharpest edge and turn it aside, and they 
will smile under your most solemn appeals, apparently unconscious 
that the message can be for them. You find few among your 
hearers in the United States, who cannot understand the allusions 
to Scripture which you make, and not unfrequently it happens 
that a bow drawn at a venture, sends a shaft to the obdurate heart. 
In the life of the devoted McCheyne, it is said that he once took 
shelter during a shower in a forge, where a man was attending a 
furnace. Pointing to the blazing flame, he said to one of the 
workmen, " What does that remind you of?" That one simple 
sentence, for he said no more, was under God the means of his 
conversion. But the conversion of a heathen from hearing such 
a remark, would be a miracle. He would not understand the al- 
lusion. It would excite no fears in his breast. Hence you must 
be a teacher of babes — but no, for that would be a luxury com- 
pared with this. You must be a teacher of those who are as igno- 
rant of God's truth as babes are, and as full of sin as years and 
heathenism can make them, and with hearts as firm as a stone, 
yea, as hard as a piece of the nether millstone. If you are a 
Christian, if you desire the glory of God, if you desire the salva- 



ON THE REAL TRIALS OF A MISSIONARY. 437 

tion of men, you cannot labor among such a people as this, with- 
out some feelings of sorrow, which a table scantily supplied, or a 
patched coat, or even a bed of sickness, has never told you of. 

Our fluctuating audiences and constant new-comers keep us 
always on the very simplest truths ; for few of those who heard 
the sermon on the last Sabbath, come to hear the one of to-day. 
Hence the same tale must be repeated every day, and without 
much care to present the oft-told tale in a new light, the few who 
may have come more than once or twice, become dissatisfied 
at the repetition of the same truths, and come no more. In the 
midst of all these discouragements, it will be very strange, if after 
a few months or even less, you do not feel the thought rising up, 
' : Well, there is no use in talking to a people like this." 

Depend upon it, my brother, you will not find yourself in heaven, 
with the garments of your sinful mortality or liability to Satan's 
temptations left behind you, merely because you are a missionary 
to the heathen. While you are thus discouraged by seeing no 
fruit to your labors, and apparently no effect produced, you will 
not fail to find Satan busy with you, and your own heart second- 
ing his assaults. You must not think that he will suffer you to 
batter the walls where he has so long entrenched himself, without 
an answering charge. The captives of the mighty and the prey 
of the terrible one, will not be so easily let go. He will come to 
you, and tell you that you are doing no good, and never will do 
any ; that you had better cease at once, or go where you can do 
more. He will fix your mind so strongly on the difficulties, as to 
keep you from seeing the promises. He will fix your attention on 
die weakness of the earthen vessel, and keep you from looking to 
Him whose is the power and the glory ; and at times you will feel 
such a repugnance to open your lips before a heathen audience, 
such a shrinking from the work, that like Jonah when he fainted 
and wished in himself to die, you will say, " It is better for me to 
die than to live." 

How long you may have to labor in thus gathering out the 
stones, and clearing away the jungle, is of course not for man to 
say. One might indeed conjecture, that it will be until you are 
brought fully to feel, not only your own utter helplessness, but 
also to long for the blessing and presence of the Spirit, "with 
gtoanings that cannot be uttered." As long as there remains in 
you any part of that spirit which will not give all the glory of suc- 
cess to God, you can hardly expect a blessing on your labors ; and 
perhaps God may see fit to humble you, by long failure of appar- 
ent success, until your only wish be, " Let what may become of 
the poor worm, but oh God, glorify thy name." But in the mean 
time, if your heart is at all right, it will be no small trial to labor 
thus. I speak not of the mere feeling of anxiety lest the expec- 
tations of friends at home, anxious to hear of your success, should 
be disappointed. There may be some with whom this is a main 
motive to exertion ; but it is one of such inferior moment, com- 



438 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

pared with that of commending one's self to God as a faithful 
steward, that I should be sorry to see much prominence given to 
it. But there are other considerations connected with such labors. 
There is that of "hope deferred which maketh the heart sick," 
and there is that of loneliness. 

Bear with me a moment. You look over your congregations, 
and there are some whose faces beam back to you the emotions 
you feel in your own hearts. There are some who love Jesus ; 
some who are awakened ; some who are serious ; some who are 
inquiring. You go out among your people, and you find at least, 
here and there a family altar erected. You may grieve as you 
pass by the dram-shop ; but you never have to avert your face as 
you pass an idol's temple. You go into the burying-grounds, and 
can say, " This one sleeps in Jesus, and that loved friend I shall 
meet in heaven." You look over a wide-spreading valley, as you 
climb some hill in your pastoral visitations, and as you look over 
the scattered houses, you can say, " In this and that house there 
is one who can say, ' Christ is mine.' " How sweet are some of the 
reflections excited by such objects, in the " Dairyman's Daughter !" 
And there are few neighborhoods in your highly favored land, 
where the faithful pastor is not privileged to make some such re- 
flections. You are not alone. The Spirit of God moves among 
you ; and the very air you breathe wafts sighs, and prayers, and 
praise to heaven. 

It is not so here. Our congregations are dead. We have no 
Christian families to visit. It is not pleasant to go through the 
crowded burial grounds here, or to look out over the plains. 
Death reigns. An idol temple deforms every scene. The air is 
loaded with the smoke of incense offered to devils. The breezes 
waft sounds of idolatrous worship to our ears. We look over a 
region where there are thousands and myriads of people, «and we 
feel that we are alone here. Oh, the loneliness, the utter desola- 
tion of soul, I have sometimes felt in walking through these 
crowded streets, the very dogs barking at me for a foreigner, and 
not one among all these thousands to whom I could utter the name 
of Jesus with any hope of a response. Dry bones ! Very many 
in the open valley ! Very dry ! We are walking among decay- 
ing skeletons, and grinning skulls, and death reigns. This is 
loneliness. Brethren, I have read many accounts of the destitu- 
tions and sorrows of domestic missionaries in the West, and the 
times have not been few in which the unbidden thought has filled 
my heart, and almost found utterance from my mouth, " Give me 
your privileges and I will share your sorrows." What are food 
and drink compared to trials such as these ? 

How long ! Oh Lord, how long ! these " long desolations V 
Satan mocks ! As with a sword in my bones he reproacheth 
me. He saith daily unto me, " Where is your God ?" 

It may be that some, on reading these lines, will feel an emotion 
of surprise, not unmixed with censure. " Is it a missionary who 



ON THE REAL TRIALS OF A MISSIONARY. 439 

writes thus? Are these the joys that missionaries feel? Are 
these the complaints they utter? We thought they had been 
men of stronger faith, of firmer nerve than this !" It may be you 
have thought so. Many do, forgetting that we are men of like 
passions with yourselves, and that we have not a healthful, vigor- 
ous public sentiment to support us as you have. We have tempta- 
tions like yours, perhaps worse, without your abundant external 
means of guarding against them. Our souls are polluted by the 
abominations with which we are surrounded. We have to look 
on idolatry and vice as common things, and to accustom ourselves 
to see with comparatively little concern things that would deprive 
you of your rest. We must do this, for human nature could not 
always bear up under the fresh horror, with which the new mis- 
sionary looks on these dark places so filled with the habitations of 
cruelty. We must also more or less feel the influence of the 
public sentiment of these heathen lands ; which, so unlike yours, 
like the hot blasts of summer that weaken our bodies, blows over 
our souls with its sickening influences, like the poisonous breath 
of Ill-pause in the Holy War. 

Say that we have converts. They do not speedily rise to the 
stature of full-grown men, as so many of yours do. Far more 
than ourselves, they are under the influence of the evil public 
spirit that prevails here. It is hard for them to rise, as you see 
men rising. We have no such richly stored libraries of books of 
devotion to spread before them as you have. No Baxter, or 
Flavel, or Doddridge ; nay, as yet, hardly even the blessed Bible 
to put in their hands. We have not the Sabbath school, and the 
bible class, the monthly tract visitor, the faithful elder, the mother 
in Israel, and the goodly company of the church, to assist the 
pastor in his work, as you have ; for almost the only Christian 
example they can see is our own. 

These discouragements and trials are inseparable from the 
nature of our work. Some of them will wear away after a few 
years, and others wall give place to those of a different character ; 
but in the commencement of a new mission there must be such as 
these. Some missionaries will feel them more than others ; but 
as yet I have met with none who would not more or less sympa- 
thize in the most of what is written above. 

Fathers and brethren, mothers in Israel, and sisters in Christ, 
make your own comments and reflections on what has been been 
written; but forget not to pray for those who are often trou- 
bled on every side, though not distressed ; perplexed, though not 
in despair ; persecuted, but not forsaken ; cast down, but not 
destroyed. 

W. M. Lowrie. 



CHAPTER X. 

LETTERS FROM MISSIONARIES, AND OTHERS, ON THE DEATH AND CHARACTER 
OF THE REV. W. M. LOWRIE. 

From the Rev. A. W. Loomis, of the Ningpo Mission. 

Ningpo, August 25th, 1847. 
Walter Lowrie, Esq. — 

Honored and Yery Dear Sir: — It has become my painful 
duty to act on this occasion as the bearer of mournful tidings, and 
may you, my dear sir, and your family be enabled to say, " It is 
the Lord, let him do as seemeth him good." I need not attempt 
to hide anything from you : for your God, who has enabled you 
cheerfully to consecrate one after another of your dear children to 
his service here below, will enable you submissively to resign them 
when they are called to his service above. I trust you will be able 
to say, " The Lord gave, and the Lord hath taken away : blessed 
be the name of the Lord." 

Our brother, Walter M. Lowrie, whom we loved, is no more, for 
God has taken him. We have confidence that our loss is his un- 
speakable gain. The stroke has fallen heavily upon us, yet He 
who loved him infinitely more than we could, saw fit to take him 
to himself. 

The news of this melancholy event reached here yesterday, 
brought by Mr. Lowrie's long tried and faithful servant, and by 
another Chinaman in the employment of the mission. [Mr. Loo- 
mis then mentions that this man had been sent from Ningpo to 
Shanghai, where Mr. Lowrie was attending the Convention for the 
revised translation of the New Testament, requesting his return to 
the station at Ningpo, with reference to certain occurrences at that 
station.] Mr. Lowrie, with these two attendants, set out from 
Shanghai on Monday, August 16th, by the canal to Chapoo. 
They arrived, all well, at Chapoo, on the morning of the 18th. 
A boat was engaged, one of the regular passenger boats, and on 
the evening of the t8th all went on board with their baggage, to 
be in readiness for an early departure next, morning. During the 
day of the 18th inst., he had been about through the city with- 
out anything unpleasant having occurred in his treatment by the 
Chinese. On the morning of the 19th, the boat in which they 



LETTER OP THE REV. A. W. LOOMIS. 441 

had taken passage set sail very early. The wind was unfavor- 
able, being strong from the south. Accordingly it was necessary 
to beat, and the boat sailed, as is supposed, about twelve miles in 
a south-easterly direction ; when suddenly a vessel was seen bear- 
ing down upon them very rapidly. It was a craft like those which 
belong to Chapoo, with three masts and eight oars. At the sight 
of this vessel the boatmen and other Chinamen (passengers) in the 
boat, were greatly terrified, and were for turning back, but Mr. 
Lowrie endeavored to allay their fears. As they drew nearer, he 
showed a small American flag which he had with him, but still 
they came on, and soon discharged their firearms. Upon this, he 
went to the inner part of the boat, having been previously stand- 
ing in the open part of the boat in the bow. When the pirates 
came, they boarded the boat with swords and spears, and began 
to thrust and beat all who stood in their way ; especially they 
seemed to seek out and maim the sailors, or the strong and able- 
bodied, to put an end to their interference. All agree in stating that 
they did not see a single blow inflicted upon Mr. Lowrie. He is 
said to have seated himself on a chair or box, and remained qui- 
etly ; and when they were breaking open a trunk with their heavy 
spears, he took out the key and gave it to them, saying, " There 
is no need to break it open, here is the key." The pirates con- 
tinued their work of plunder, breaking open everything and taking 
out such things as they wished, and stripping even the clothes 
from the Chinamen. Yet they did not touch anything that was 
on him ; even his watch, and perhaps seven or eight dollars 
that were in his pocket, they did not take. They, stripped and 
beat his servant, which he requested them to stop, as the poor 
man was sick. Being probably unable to stay and witness such 
cruelty, he then went out and sat on the bow of the boat. 

Before they had finished plundering, something seemed to have 
awakened a fear in the minds of the pirates, lest when he reached 
Shanghai they would be reported to the authorities, whereupon 
they debated for a moment whether they would kill him or throw 
him alive into the sea. They hastily determined upon the latter, 
and two men seized him ; and they being unable to effect then- 
purpose, another came up, and he was thrown overboard. One 
of the boatmen, who was near to him during his last moments, 
states that while the pirates were ransacking the boat, he was en- 
gaged in reading his pocket Bible, and when they seized him or* 
deck, he had it still in his hand. As they were in the act of cast- 
ing him into the sea, he turned himself partially around,, and; 
threw his Bible upon the deck.* He had also the presence of 
mind, as he was going overboard, to throw off his shoes, and he 
swam about for some time in the water. He was seen to turn 



* This Bible was afterwards found and taken to Ningpo. It is a eopy of Bagster's 
12mo. edition in Hebrew. Greek, and English. It is the same copy he preserved with 
so much difficulty and care in his shipwreck in the Harmony. 



442 ' MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

several times, as if he would struggle towards the boat ; but as 
one of the pirates stood with a long pole, having an iron hook at 
the end, in his hands, ready to strike him when he approached, 
he desisted, and soon sank. Such has been the sad end of our 
dear brother. . . . 

I will not add to your distress by alluding to the deep gloom 
caused by this most melancholy news. May our Lord remember 
us in this bereavement. May his parents and relatives be able to 
say, " Though he slay me yet w T ill I trust in him." 
With much respect, 

I am yours in the Lord, 

A. W. Loomis. 



From the Right Rev. W. J. Boone, D. D., of the Protestant 
Episcopal Mission at Shanghai. 

Shanghai, August 31st, 1847. 
Walter Lowrie, Esq. : — 

My Dear Sir : — I cannot resist the strong impulse of my 
heart to commune with you, and to mingle my sorrows and tears 
with yours at this time. Our merciful and loving heavenly Fa- 
ther has seen good, in his infinite wisdom, to afflict us all in a 
very tender point. To you especially, my dear sir, he has sent a 
very heavy trial. May his grace be abundantly bestowed to en- 
able you to bear it with entire submission to his will. Indeed, my 
dear sir, he is too wise to err : too good to do what is unkind. 

In his infinite wisdom it has seemed good to him to take to 
himself your beloved Walter ; and that, too, under circumstances 
which have wrung our hearts with anguish. My heart's prayer 
for you is, that when you hear the sad story, you may be enabled 
to say with the aged Eli. " It is the Lord ; let him do whatsoever 
seemeth to him good." 

He has done so, and, in this case, not in wrath, but in mercy 
and in loving kindness. He has removed your dear son from his 
vineyard on earth to a nobler service in his sanctuary above. 

His work was done. The time of his removal arrived, and the 
circumstances thereof I am persuaded were ordered for the benefit 
of us who survive, rather than for anything to be effected thereby 
on our dear brother himself. 

You will no doubt receive full particulars from your brethren 
4t Ningpo, but lest their letters may not reach you by this over- 
land mail, I will mention them. You are aware that he was at 
Shanghai as a member of the translating committee. On Satur- 
day, the 14th August, he received a letter from' his brethren at 
Ningpo, requesting him to join them immediately. [Dr. Boone 
here relates the particulars of this melancholy event, as given in 
the letter of Mr. Loomis.] . . . His servant escaped to Ningpo, and 
communicated these particulars, which we devoutly thank God 



LETTER OF THE RIGHT REV. \V. J. BOONE, D. D. 443 

he has permitted to reach us, so thai we hear of him to the last 
moment, and that these violent men did not mangle his body. 

Oh, my dear brother, I feel that these are sad tidings to write 
to an affectionate father of a son, and of such a son ; but for our 
consolation we can surely say that the finger of God was never 
more manifest in the removal of any of his servants than in this 
case. To my mind, the very slightness of the secondary causes 
upon which his life and death seemed to turn, manifest the clear- 
ness of the Divine Decree to take him to his Heavenly Home. 

This event has thrown my family, who had the privilege to en- 
joy his company for the last two months and a half of his earthly 
existence, into the deepest affliction. Dearly as I know he was 
beloved by the mission with which he was connected, yet I be- 
lieve no one in China mourns his loss as I do. We were together 
daily for two months and a half, laboring together in what we 
both believed to be the most important matter connected with 
our Master's cause in China, with which we had ever been con- 
nected. 

Circumstances occurred when he was under my roof which 
drew our hearts very closely together, and which now, as I look 
back upon them after what has just transpired, I cannot but re- 
gard as a merciful preparation to him for his sudden death. 
Whilst he was with me I was twice threatened with attacks of 
the brain, which I thought would prove fatal in a few days. On 
these occasions we had much conversation on the subject of a sud- 
den summons, and how a Christian should live and feel in view 
of such an event. The person whose call was supposed to be 
near at hand was myself. We never dreamt that he was so near 
the confines of eternity ; but he entered into the subject with me 
with all his heart. Never have I heard any one converse, who 
had a more delightful state of child-like simplicity of heart in re- 
lying upon the Saviour. I remember particularly our conversa- 
tion, when we were sitting alone one moonlight night, upon my 
terrace. We were speaking of the case of a man removed from 
his field of labor in the prime of early manhood, when he gave 
promise of daily increasing usefulness. His train of thought was 
striking, and much impressed my mind ; it was intended for con- 
solation to me. God grant it may prove so to you, my dear sir, 
when you read it. He said he could not view this matter as most 
Christians seemed to do. He could not call it mysterious, pecu- 
liarly distressing, as was commonly done. On the contrary, to 
his mind, there was something peculiarly cheering to survivors in 
such a death. In the case of an old man, he was removed in the 
common course of events. Even to our eyes his work was done. 
But not so with the case of which he was speaking. The pecu- 
liarity of it was, that there was promise of much more to be done 
here for the glory of Christ. This world, however, we may be 
well assured, is but the first stage of our existence : God's children 
are employed in services infinitely more glorious, and that con- 



444 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

duce much more to the glory of his Holy name, in the sanctuarj 
above, than any employments entrusted to them on earth. Should 
we not then, said he, use their early manhood, their manifest ca- 
pacity, for usefulness in the vineyard here below, — indeed, every 
argument which can be pleaded, derived from their prospective 
usefulness to the Church on earth, to assure ourselves that God 
has called them to a more than common post of usefulness in the 
Church triumphant. His modesty and deep humility would have 
prevented his applying this to his own death, but from my heart 1 
adopt it as the true interpretation of our Heavenly Father's deal- 
ing with him and with his cause in China in this instance. 

If this be the true view of the case, most cheering indeed is 
the assurance it affords us of his present happy state and glorious 
position. 

No one in China promised to do more for the cause of our Di- 
vine master than he. Just brought out by his brethren's choice 
to a participation in the work of revising the translation of the 
Scriptures, this call upon him was having the happiest effect in 
overcoming his disposition to modest retirement, and making him 
feel the necessity that was laid upon him, to take a more promi- 
nent stand among those whose attainments in the language quali- 
fied them to participate in all of a general character that was 
doing to advance the Saviour's cause. In the unhappy division 
of opinion which exists with respect to the proper word by which 
to render Theos [God] he took a prominent part in the discussion, 
and wrote on this subject one of the ablest articles that appeared 
in the Chinese Repository. 

He was daily growing in power, and the field of usefulness was 
continually opening wider and wider before him ; but God had 
work for him above this vale of tears, and now leaves us mourn- 
ing" and sorrowing, to do the great work without his aid. O, that 
by the Spirit's gracious influences he may more than supply this 
loss to us, and that the work, for which our beloved brother was 
laboring with all his powers when he was taken away, may be so 
accomplished that his own most Holy name may be glorified 
thereby. 

We had promised each other, that if my life was spared, we 
would labor much together to set the plain doctrines of the cross, 
by means of tracts, before this people ; but, alas ! he is not, for 
God has taken him. 

May we not suppose that the object of our gracious Saviour, in 
giving us, in addition to the general promise of the resurrection 
of all at the last day, the special assurance that " the sea shall 
give up its dead," is to assuage the grief of those who have been 
bereaved as you are, and whose precious ones lie buried in the 
deep. 

Believe me, my dear sir, very sincerely yours, in the hope of a 
common resurrection with our beloved brother, 

Wm. J. Boone. 



LETTER OF THE REV. JOHN LLOYD. 445 

From the Rev. John Lloyd, of the Amoy Mission* 

Amoy, September 17th, 1847. 
Walter Lowrie, Esq.. — % 

My Dear Mr. Lowrie : — Yesterday I received the sad, the 
very sad intelligence of Walter's death. T need not tell you how 
much I was affected by this afflictive event. Walter was very 
dear to me. I loved him with a brother's love. He was my 
dearest earthly friend. We were born into God's glorious family 
about the same time. We entered the church on the same day. We 
formed the resolution of devoting ourselves to the work of foreign 
missions about the same time. We often took sweet counsel to- 
gether, and walked to the house of God. We often talked together 
of God's kind dealings with us. W r e often spoke of our hopes. I 
recollect one instance of this kind which occurred at Jefferson Col- 
lege. We went out into the groves to commune with each other, 
and as we talked by the way, our hearts did burn within us. Wal- 
ter often alluded to this walk and talk in the groves of Canonsburgh 
in his letters, and spoke of it as an antepast of the joys of heaven. 
All this intimacy with him while we were in college gave me op- 
portunities of learning his worth. I knew his inward mind on those 
subjects which were nearest and dearest to his heart, and I can 
most freely say that the more I knew him the more I loved him. 

After Walter left college, I saw no more of him till I met him 
in Macao, in October, 1844. In the providence of God our meet- 
ing was of short duration. I soon left that place for ximoy. What 
I saw of him there, gave me higher notions of his piety, of his 
sound judgment, and of his intellectual character, than ever I 
entertained before. My love and admiration could not but be 
increased. I heard him preach and address religious meetings 
only two or three times. He was very solemn, and his solemnity 
was contagious, if I may use the expression. It possessed the 
rare quality of radiating from its centre, and entering the hearts 
of all around. Hence his discourses, which were plain and prac- 
tical, always took hold of the feelings as well as the intellect. 
One never wearied listening to them, and one always left the 
meeting feeling that he had received both instruction and spiritual 
benefit from what he had heard. 

My dear Mr. Lowrie, it is not my intention to write an eulogy 
upon Walter; but I cannot but feel that you, and I, and the Church 
of God have sustained a very great loss. This loss more nearly 
concerns you, and though 1 cannot fully appreciate a parent's 
tender feelings and yearnings in behalf of his beloved offspring, 
yet I can realize in some degree the depth of that grief which the 

* This able and beloved Missionary has also finished the work which his Master had 
for him to do in China. He died at Amoy, of typhus fever, on the 6th day of Decem- 
ber, 1848. Thus after a short interval, these two friends met, as we trust, in the pres- 
ence of the Saviour, to be separated no more forever. 



446 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

news of this severe affliction will produce in your mind. I most 
deeply sympathize with you. My heart bleeds for you. I feel 
totally unfitted to administer consolation. The blow is too heavy 
to admit of alleviation by anything that 1 can say. I can but 
weep with you over the loss sustained. But, though I cannot 
afford relief to your mind in this season of sorrowful bereavement, 
yet there is one who sympathizes with you, and who is fully able 
to console you in this hour of heavy affliction. That Jesus, whom 
Walter loved, knows the depth of your grief. He knew it before 
the sad event occurred. He has consolation for all the sons and 
daughters of affliction. He is a tender comforter. The bruised 
reed will he not break, the smoking flax will he not quench. To 
him you can go with all confidence. He is waiting to hear your 
cries. What a privilege God's dear children possess ! 

When God afflicts them, he does it as a tender, loving parent — 
he does it for their good. This affliction is for our good. I feel it 
to be intended for my good. I had wrong views in relation to 
God's work in China ; I almost felt that it could not go forward 
without Walter. I felt that we must have him to control and 
counsel us, to manage our operations, to rebuke us when wrong, 
to encourage us when right. I felt that we needed him to oversee 
the press, to prepare tracts, to assist in revising the Scriptures. I 
knew that God had endowed him with a noble intellect, had given 
a sound judgment, had bestowed upon him much grace, and had 
eminently fitted him for a high station in this great harvest field. 
I knew all this, and felt that Ave could not spare him. But God's 
thoughts and ways are not as ours. He has taught me that he 
can do without us, even the best of us. He has no need of our 
poor assistance. When he sees fit, he calls us to himself. He 
has called Walter thus. We idolized him. God has rebuked us. 
But he has taken Walter to himself. This is my consolation. I 
have no doubts on this point. I feel as sure as I can on any sub- 
ject based on moral evidence, of the safety of Walter. He is 
happy beyond conception. We mourn his loss and feel our spirits 
depressed, but he is beyond the influence of sorrow's pains. Wal- 
ter wrote me not long ago a letter, in which he spoke freely of his 
feelings. He was mourning over inbred corruption, and found all 
his hope in Christ. I thought for a moment of sending this letter 
to you, but what need is there for this? You have many letters 
from him, the spirit and sentiment of which leave your own mind 
free from all doubt as to Walter's personal interest in the blood of 
the precious Saviour. 

I love to think of Walter. Many of the sweetest spots of my 
existence teem with delightful recollections of him. It may seem 
strange but it is true, that the thought of being saved with Wal- 
ter and dwelling with him forever in heaven, has often filled my 
soul with peculiar emotions of joyful satisfaction, and has aroused 
into life a sweeter affection for the blessed Saviour, who was 
pleased to give me a title to the same inheritance which he has 



LETTER OF THE REV. JOSEPH OWEN. 447 

conferred on him. Walter has already entered upon the enjoy- 
ment of that inheritance, and is now employed with the patriarchs 
and prophets, with the apostles and martyrs, and with the General 
Assembly of the first born in heaven, sounding the high praises of 
him who loved him and washed him in his own blood, and made 
him a king and a priest unto God and his father. He was ripe 
for the kingdom and his work was done, and so God took him to 
himself, and now employs him in the upper sanctuary in a higher 
and holier service. 

Would that I could fill up the void which this sad bereavement 
will make in your parental heart ! But I have hopes that God 
will sustain you. He enabled you to give up Walter with cheer- 
fulness to the work of Missions. He enabled you to bear up under 
the distress of a long separation. Surely he will not now forsake 
you in this the extremity of your grief! I trust you will feel 
that the cause of missions still needs your aid ; that the Church 
has work for you still to do ; and especially that God, by this dark 
and mysterious dispensation of his providence, is preparing you 
for more self-denying labors in the station which he has called 
you to occupy. God may intend by this event to accomplish more 
for that cause which Walter so dearly loved, than (speaking 
humanly,) could have been accomplished by him if he had been 
spared many years. Of one thing we are sure, God does nothing 
wrong. He brings good out of evil ; all his ways and all his deal- 
ings with the children of men are right and holy. May we there- 
fore be submissive; may we bow and kiss the rod and him that 
hath appointed it; may the blessed Spirit save us from all mur- 
muring on account of his dispensations ; may he give us meek 
and lowly minds ; may he sanctify to us all his heavy afflictions, 
and may he make them work out for us a far more exceeding 
and eternal weight of glory ! May the God of grace sustain you. 
Yours with all sympathy, John Lloyd. 



From the Rev. Joseph Owen, of the Allahabad Mission. 

Allahabad, November 19th, 1847. 
My Dear Mr. Lowrie — 

We have just received from China the distressing news of 
your beloved son's death, and there is in the Mission a deep 
and universal feeling of sorrow and sympathy, which I have 
been requested on their behalf, to express to you. Some of 
us knew your dear son personally, and are thus in some meas- 
ure prepared to appreciate the loss to you and all your family 
and friends, caused by his death. We all knew him, through the 
Missionary Chronicle, as a faithful ambassador for Christ, in perils 
often, perils of water, perils of robbers, suffering shipwreck, and 
spending nights and days on the deep. I had the privilege of 



448 MEMOIR OP WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

knowing - him as a beloved fellow-student, and. since we have been 
in the eastern world, as a dear friend and correspondent. Four 
days ago, on the 15th inst., I received from him a letter, dated 
Shanghai, Aug. 8th, where he was attending a Convention for the 
revision of the New Testament in Chinese. He wished an an- 
swer by return mail, to some inquiries respecting the terms we 
use in the India dialects to represent the Supreme Being, and 
wrote in good health, and encouraged with his prospects of use- 
fulness. On the envelope I found with sad surprise, the following 
lines from Brother Happer, dated Canton, Sept. 21st. " You will 
excuse my opening this envelope to inform you of the lamented 
death of the beloved writer of this note. He was murdered by 
pirates, when returning from Shanghai to Ningpo, Aug. 19th, 
near Chapoo. They threw him into the sea, and he was drowned. 
All our Missions are in deep grief. Our ablest and best man has 
fallen." These sad tidings were confirmed the next day by the 
Friend of India, in which we found an extract from the China 
Mail of September, which I have had copied, and will send to you 
with this. You will no doubt have heard directly from China 
before this reaches you, yet every scrap of intelligence on the sub- 
ject will be valued by you, and therefore I send you all that we have 
This is indeed a mysterious dispensation of Divine Providence. 
Truly God's ways are not as our ways, nor his thoughts as our 
thoughts. Dear Walter was qualified in no ordinary degree for the 
great work in which he was engaged. His excellent scholarship, 
ripe judgment, extensive and matured knowledge of China, the 
deep foundation which he had laid in its difficult language, and 
above all his unwavering and ardent love to the Redeemer and his 
Church, prepared him to be very extensively useful in that im- 
mense field. But God has again shown us. that the excellency 
of the power in the great work of the world's conversion, is to be, 
not of us, but of Him, and given another illustration of that great 
truth, " Not by might, nor by power, but by my Spirit." I feel 
that another tie to earth is broken. I loved Walter most sincerely, 
and have known and loved him ever since he was nineteen years 
old. Many of our pleasant interviews I shall never forget, and 
I trust we shall with delight converse about them hereafter. In 
particular, I remember the kind visit he paid me, at my father's, a 
short time before I left America. We took a long ramble together 
in the fields, enjoying the sweet fresh air of spring, part of the time 
on the winding, beautiful banks of the Croton, and conversing of 
our future prospects. His heart was then towards Africa, but sub- 
sequently God directed him to that glorious field in which he has 
now fallen. His usefulness, however, has not terminated with his 
sojourn on earth. His name is precious, not only to those who in- 
timately knew him, but it must be to thousands. His career was 
short, but very eventful. He was called not only to do, but to 
suffer much for the Lord Jesus, and he did it as a good soldier, 
falling eventually as a leader in one of the foremost ranks. A 



LETTER OP THE REV. JOSEPH OWEN. 449 

breach has been made by his fall, not easily filled. God grant 
that his example of labor and patience, of zeal and wisdom, of 
faith and love, may call forth many dear youth from our Ameri- 
can Zion, to count not their lives dear to themselves in publishing 
the glorious gospel to the land of Sinim. He has been removed 
from a lower to a higher sphere of service. Though he rests 
from his labors, yet he is not inactive. But we see through a 
glass darkly. We know little, and in our present state are capable 
of knowing but little, of the glorious service in which he has 
joined the redeemed around the throne. The dark, fearful billows 
that closed above him as he sank into the sea could not contain 
his spirit. In a few minutes his ransomed soul was with the 
blessed Redeemer, forever beyond the violence of earth and of hell. 
And if the kind, considerate authorities at Ningpo should not suc- 
ceed in recovering his remains, it will matter little after a while ; the 
day will soon come when the sea shall give up its dead, when the 
members of Christ's body scattered throughout its immense, dismal 
caverns shall all be recovered, brought and joined to their Head, 
and forever made like to his glorious body. We may be sure that 
the Omniscient and Omnipotent Saviour will not allow one particle 
of his purchased possession to be lost. We hope soon to be with 
him in the midst of the glorified throng. We are repeatedly and 
emphatically reminded that the fashion of this world passeth away. 
The tidings that you conveyed to me a little more than two 
months ago, were some of the most painful that I ever received. 
I was looking forward with very great happiness to having my 
own dear brother with me here. But the disappointment, with 
the almost certain prospect of his speedy death, is a deep afflic- 
tion. I bless God who has not allowed a murmuring thought to 
arise in my heart. He knows what is best for his Church, infi- 
nitely better than we do, and the multitude of his ransomed ones 
in India and China, shall surely be brought home, though we and 
all others now on the field should fall. God is trying his Church by 
terrible things in righteousness. He has taken to himself some of 
our most useful fellow-missionaries of late. On the 19th of Aug. 
your son ; on the 1st of Sept. the Rev. J. Macdonald of the Free 
Church Mission, Calcutta, a very holy, useful man ; on the 7th 
of Sept. Mrs. Hill, who had been for twenty years a faithful mis- 
sionary at Berhampore ; and not long ago Mr. Whittlesey, a very 
useful missionary of the American Board, died in Ceylon. Other 
useful laborers are obliged to leave the field, as dear Brother Ran- 
kin, and Mrs. Scott. And others God is keeping from coming. 
Ought not the Church to think of these things ? These are loud 
calls to us here, to the Committee at home, to the ministers and 
elders, to the sons of the prophets, to every individual in the 
Church, to humble ourselves under the mighty hand of God, that 
in due time he may lift us up. 

Yours affectionately, 

Joseph Owen. 



450 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

From the Rev. John M. Lowrie. 

Wellsville, Ohio, January 26th, 1849. 
Dear Uncle — 

I enclose several letters to me from cousin Walter. As we 
were so much together while he was in the College and in the 
Seminary, our communications were chiefly personal and not 
written. I will therefore give you some of his religious experi- 
ence and views during these periods. 

If I were drawing off a sketch of his character as a student at 
College and in the Theological Seminary I would notice some 
such points as these. 

His first care was attention to his own spiritual wants. I never 
knew a man more scrupulously careful to maintain punctual and 
deliberate habits of private devotion. We were for a short time 
occupants of the same room ; and it was arranged that our hours 
of exercise should leave the room private to each of us in turn. 
Many times when this arrangement was interrupted, I have 
known him enter a little closet in one corner of the room, that 
no eye might see him while he sought his Father's face. 

It was chiefly his desire to secure uninterrupted hours and sea- 
sons, unknown to any, for devotional duties, which led him to 
secure a room by himself during the greater part of his course, 
after his profession of piety. His seasons of fasting I sometimes 
knew, because we ate at the same table ; but at other times, I 
think, he so arranged them in connection with visits to friends in 
the country, that we supposed him not yet returned from a visit, 
when, in truth, he had exchanged his social intercourse for a sea- 
son of solitary communion with his God. And I have often 
knocked at his door for admittance, when I knew he was within, 
but he would not reply, for he wished uninterrupted his seasons 
of devotion and of study. It seemed also remarkable to me that 
he so well maintained his devotional habits when absent from 
home. I have no knowledge of any friend whose habit of medi- 
tation upon the Bible after reading it was so fixed. At the foun- 
dation of his Christian character, was an ardent love for his closet. 

Next to his attention to private duties, I would rank his affec- 
tionate concern for the piety of his fellow-professors of religion. 
There was at Jefferson College a small religious society, still in 
existence, bearing the name of the missionary Brainerd Of this 
he was an active member, and he ever regarded it as a means 
both of profit and influence. But outside of this little band, he 
exerted no ordinary influence upon Christian students. He was 
especially beloved by those who were associated with him in the 
support of Sabbath Schools and prayer-meetings, for he was nat- 
urally more with them. And as from the very first his was 3 
missionary spirit, so those brethren both at Canonsburg and Prince- 



LETTER OF THE REV. J. M. LOWRIE. 451 

ton, whose minds turned towards the great field whitening to the 
harvest, were his peculiar companions. There was one room at 
Canonsburg that was the place of many a conference for the land 
of Sinim, and many a prayer that it might be opened to the her- 
alds of salvation. And there are brethren in China and India, 
and I believe in heaven too, who will long remember room No. 
29, in Princeton Seminary, hallowed as it has been by conference, 
by tears and prayers. I scarcely know one whose influence upon 
the piety of the institutions, both at the College and the Seminar)*, 
was more consistent and healthful than his was. 

His influence was also exerted over those who made no pro- 
fession of religion. He was deeply impressed with the truth, that 
to every young man the period of College life was the golden op- 
portunity to secure salvation, or to strengthen pious habits and a 
pious character. He was well aware, also, of the many insidious 
and dangerous snares which beset those who are so early in life 
set free from the restraints and the wholesome discipline of a par- 
ent's control. Many a time has he expressed deep anxiety on 
learning that some interesting and inexperienced youth had taken 
his boarding in dangerous company 

Worthy of notice, also, are his zeal and devotion to improve op- 
portunities for usefulness. The Sabbath School at Miller's Run, 
where he attended church, and of which he was superintendent, 
was about six miles from Canonsburg. Under his control it was 
a thriving and most interesting school. Accompanied by a band 
of affectionate teachers, his fellow-students, he went to the school, 
sustained meetings for exhortation and prayer, visited the sick, 
and was ever welcome to the firesides and the tables of an attach- 
ed people. Beyond doubt, there are precious souls in that congre- 
gation, who retain the sweet savor of his memory. They will 
remember the crowded prayer-meeting, the solemn Bible-class, the 
simple address, and the fact that many young persons, almost all 
from the Sabbath School, united with the Church during his so- 
journ with them, as evidence of his influence and usefulness 
among that people. These labors were a delight to him, though 
they were toilsome. Often he would walk as many as eight miles 
on Saturday evening to hold a prayer-meeting, and return to the 
church on Sabbath morning to the school. 

There remains one other matter which I have in lively, and I 
may add, grateful remembrance, — this is his faithfulness in dis- 
charging the important but unpleasant duty of admonition. I 
have lying before me a letter, which cannot be made public, but 
which is an excellent instance and evidence of his watchfulness 
over his brethren, and of his kindness and prudence to warn and 
correct. Nor was he less ready to receive than to administer 
reproof. .... 

Yours affectionately, 

J. M. Lowrie. 



452 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 



REMARKS ON THE DEATH OP THE REV. WALTER M. LOWRIE, 

By the Rev. A. Alexander, D. D. 

The mournful tidings of this disastrous event has sent a pang 
of grief to the hearts of thousands in our Church and in our coun- 
try. The loss of such a man, and in such a way, is, indeed, a 
deplorable thing. Christianity was never intended to destroy the 
natural feelings of humanity, but to regulate and refine them. In 
Holy Scripture we find that the pious gave free indulgence to their 
feelings of sorrow, on account of the death of good and great 
men. When Abner was treacherously murdered by Joab, king 
David " lifted up his voice and wept at the grave of Abner ; and 
all the people wept. And the king lamented over Abner." So, 
also, when the pious king Josiah was slain in the flower of his 
age, " All Judah and Jerusalem mourned for Josiah : and Jere- 
miah lamented for Josiah. And all the singing men and singing 
women spake of Josiah in their lamentations." We have, more- 
over, in the New Testament an example of the same kind in 
the primitive church at Jerusalem, when Stephen, "a man full 
of wisdom and of the Holy Ghost," was stoned to death by the 
Jews. This man stood conspicuous among the disciples of Christ 
on account of the miraculous gifts with which he was endowed, 
and the holy boldness and eloquence with which he defended the 
truth, for " being full of faith and power, he did great wonders 
and miracles among the people. And his enemies were unable 
to resist the wisdom and the spirit by which he spake." But 
when confounded in argument, they had recourse to violence, and 
cast him out of the city and stoned Stephen, calling on God, and 
saying, " Lord Jesus, receive my spirit." And he kneeled 
down and cried with a loud voice, " Lord, lay not this sin to 
their charge ;" and when he had said this, he fell asleep. 
" And devout men carried Stephen to his burial, and made 
great lamentation over him." 

Here we find, that in the early infancy of the Church, good 
and useful men were suffered by divine providence to be cut off, 
when their services were more needed than they could be at any 
future time. God would teach us that he is not dependent on any 
instruments for the accomplishment of his purposes. The death 
of Stephen, probably, had a mighty effect on the minds of many 
who were present ; and from among his bitterest enemies, there 
was one whom God had determined to make " a chosen vessel" to 
carry the Gospel not only to the Jews, but to a multitude of the 
Gentile nations. 

And we learn from this part of Sacred Scripture, that God 
does not forsake his devoted servants, when surrounded by ene- 
mies, and while suffering the agonies of death. Stephen saw 



REMARKS BY THE REV. DR. A. ALEXANDER. 453 

heaven opened and the Son of Man standing at the right hand 
of God. And he was enabled to die in the full assurance of hope ; 
and, with his last breath, to imitate his divine Master, by invok- 
ing mercy for his murderers. And although we are not permitted 
to know in what state of mind our dear young brother met death, 
we have good reason to conclude that his covenant God did not 
forsake him in that trying hour. Yery likely his last breath was 
spent in prayers for the salvation of his murderers. 

That the death of Mr. Lowrie is a great loss to the Church, 
and particularly to the cause of missions, none will doubt. Re- 
ligiously educated from his youth, and in a family imbued with 
the missionary spirit, he early turned his thoughts to the condition 
of the blinded, perishing heathen. With this object in view, he 
commenced his theological education. During his whole course, 
it is believed, his purpose remained unshaken ; and all his plans 
and studies were prosecuted with a direct view to this object. 
Possessed of a vigorous and well-balanced mind, and of cheerful, 
equable temper, his progress in learning was rapid, and what he 
acquired, he retained. With him no time was wasted, for even 
his hours of relaxation from severe study were spent in some use- 
ful employment. 

He was willing to encounter all the dangers of the deleterious 
climate of Africa, and would have made that dark region the 
field cf his labors, had it not appeared to all his friends that he. 
was eminently qualified for the China mission, that great country 
having unexpectedly been opened for the preaching of the Gospel. 
Our young brother accordingly embarked for that important field; 
but before his station was finally chosen, he met with extraordi- 
nary difficulties and dangers. In one of his voyages he was ship- 
wrecked ; the vessel was abandoned at sea, and the crew and 
himself were exposed to a rough sea, in an open boat, for many 
days ; and when they approached the shore, were, by a mani- 
fest interposition of providence, enabled to land, when at almost 
any other time their boat must have been swamped. 

Since his arrival in China, he devoted himself assiduously to the 
acquisition of the very difficult language of the country ; and there 
is reason to believe with uncommon success. But not contented 
merely to acquire the language, he deemed it very important to 
make himself acquainted with the literature, and especially with 
what may be termed the classical literature of the Chinese. From 
communications received in this country, there is reason to think 
that he was making rapid progress in this species of knowledge. 

Besides the acquisition of the provincial dialect of Ningpo, where 
he had his station, he had formed the purpose of learning the Man- 
chu Tartar language, which differs from that of China in that an 
alphabetical character is used ; and it is understood that this is 
becoming more and more popular, and from its superior conve 
nience, will probably prevail. From these and other considera 
tions it is evident that our Church and the cause of missions has 



454 MEMOIR OF WALTER M LOWRIE. 

experienced a great loss in the death of Mr. Lowrie. It ought to 
be mentioned, also, that with other missionaries, he was, when 
called away, earnestly engaged in revising and correcting the ver- 
sion of the New Testament into the Chinese tongue. For this 
work he was eminently qualified by his learning, and by his nice 
discrimination and turn for accuracy in matters of this kind. 
When sent for to Ningpo, he had been for between two and three 
months at Shanghai, engaged with Bishop Boone, Dr. Bridgeman 
and others in this work. 

It is, then, neither unreasonable nor unscriptural that great 
lamentation should be made on account of his death. Though 
none can be expected to experience the same kind and degree of 
grief as his venerable father and neai kindred, yet many others 
deeply sympathize with them in their lamentations ; and it may 
be presumed none have felt this stroke more pungently than his 
brethren of the mission. To them the bereavement is indeed 
great and lamentable. But this feeling is not confined to the 
missionaries of the Presbyterian church ; others will feel sorely 
that a heavy judgment has fallen upon them. This is manifest 
from the affectionate and excellent letter of Bishop Boone to Mr. 
Lowrie's father. He says : " This event has thrown my family, who 
had the privilege to enjoy his company for the last two months and 
a half, into the deepest affliction. Dearly as I know he was be- 
loved by the mission with which he was connected, yet, I believe. 
no one in China mourns his loss as I do." And no doubt the 
same feeling pervades the whole of the missionaries who have had 
any opportunity of acquaintance with our departed brother. 

We may, therefore, lament the death of such a man. so beloved, 
and so well qualified to be useful in the most important work 
which is going on in this world. But though we are permitted to 
sorrow, yet not to repine. When Aaron's impious sons were struck 
dead in the sanctuary, " he held his peace ;" he uttered no com- 
plaint. And when Eli heard the prophet's prediction respecting 
the judgment about to be inflicted on his wicked sons, he said, "It 
is the Lord, let him do what seemeth him good." Perfect sub- 
mission is consistent with the most heart-felt sorrow. Indeed, the 
deeper the grief, the more virtuous the submission. 

This event, I think, is a solemn call of Providence to our whole 
Church. It is evidently a token of the displeasure of our heavenly 
Father. God, by thus taking away one of the most eminent of 
our missionary corps, evidently calls the Presbyterian church to a 
solemn consideration of their ways ; to an earnest inquiry whether, 
as a body, we have done our duty ; and especially in relation to 
China. Some twenty years ago, the writer heard a speaker at a 
missionary meeting in Philadelphia, say, " If a hundred missiona- 
ries should now enter China, at different points, and every one of 
them should immediately be put to death, this would be a cheap 
sacrifice, if thereby that populous country should be opened for the 
preaching of the Gospel." At that time, the most, sanguine did 



REMARKS BY THE REV. DR. A. ALEXANDER. 455 

not dare to hope for such an event in their day. Bat God, by a 
wonderful Providence, has set the door wide open. Not merely 
one. but five great cities are made accessible, and the right, of resi- 
dence and Christian worship secured by treaty. In consequence, 
a number of the most promising and best educated men offered 
their services, and were sent. But did the Church appreciate the 
importance of this extraordinary dispensation of Providence ? Did 
she arouse herself from her long sleep, and come to the help of the 
Lord against the mighty ; did she enlarge her spirit of liberality, 
and begin to wrestle with God in fervent, incessant prayer for this 
empire, which contains one third of the population of the globe ? 
She did not. Had it not been for the generous donation of a few 
individuals, the Board would not have been able to send out the 
promising men who offered. And even now, there exists a gen- 
eral apathy. A few churches and a few individuals seem to be 
sensible of the solemn, responsible circumstances in which we who 
live in this age are placed. Professors of religion are too gener- 
ally occupied with their own concerns ; every one is attending to 
his farm or his merchandise ; few have any deep feeling for the 
ark of God. Each one will build and decorate his own house, 
while the house of God is desolate. 

Let the churches, then, consider this awful dispensation, as one 
in which they have a deep concern. Let the solemn inquiry be 
made in all our churches, and through all our borders, whether 
they have not. been delinquent in their duty to the missionaries in 
China. Yea, let every individual ask himself, Have I done my 
duty ? Have I remembered daily, as I ought, those devoted men? 
Have I borne them feelingly on my heart to the throne of grace ? 
Have I given as liberally of my substance to promote this object 
as I ought? Such inquiries, honestly made, would, I believe, 
bring conviction home to almost every bosom. What, then, shall 
be the result ? Having done amiss, is it our solemn purpose, by 
the help of the Lord, to do so no more ? Let us, then, take words 
•and return unto the Lord who hath smitten us. "Let the priests 
weep between the porch and the altar, and let them say, spare thy 
people, O Lord." 

If it should please our heavenly Father to make this distressing 
bereavement the means of awakening all our churches to the sol- 
emn consideration of their duty, as it relates to missions in gen- 
eral, and to China in particular, then will this sore judgment be 
turned into mercy. Let all the friends of Zion wrestle with God 
until he grant this result. Let them say, " For Zion's sake I will 
not hold my peace, and for Jerusalem's sake I will not be silent, 
until the righteousness thereof go forth as brightness, and the sal- 
vation thereof as a lamp that burnetii." Such importunity is never 
offensive. Jacob said to the Angel of the Covenant, " 1 will not 
let thee go until thou bless me." And God commands us "to give 
him no rest, till he establish, and till he make Jerusalem a praise 
in the earth." Let every true Presbyterian resolve that, during 



'156 MEMOIR OF WALTER M. LOWRIE. 

the year, now commenced, he will bear on his heart before the 
throne of grace, the perishing condition of the heathen, and the 
wants of our foreign missionaries, with far greater frequency and 
fervency than during the year which is past. And, as our mission- 
aries may be recalled unless funds are provided by the Church for 
their support, let every man, and woman, and child consider whether 
God does not require of them to do much more in the way of con- 
tribution than they have heretofore done ; and see whether, from 
the very day from which you commence a new course, God will 
not bless you in a special manner. " Bring ye all the tithes into 
the storehouse that there may be meat in mine house, and prove 
me now herewith, saith the Lord of hosts, if I will not open you 
the windows of heaven and pour you out a blessing, that there 
shall not be room enough to receive it." Mai. iii. 10. — Missionary 
Chronicle: February, 1848. 




1 

REV. WALTER M. LOWRIE, 1 

A MISSIONARY 1 



THE CHINESE. 




SECOND SIDE. 

IN CHINESE. 

The American teacher of the religion of Jesus, Low-le-wha, Seen Sang, 
[i. e. Mr. Lowrie.] Born in [the reign of] Kea-King, 24th year, 1st month, 
26th day. Died in [the reign of] Taou-Kwang, 27th year, 7th month, 
9th day. Reckoning back in [the reign of] Taou-Kwang, the 22d year, 
4th month, 18th day, he arrived at Macao, China. The 25th year, 3d 
month, 5th day, he reached Ningpo ; in order to propagate the holy re- 
ligion. How can we know whether a long or a short life is appointed for 
us ? He had but attained the age of twenty-nine years, when, travelling 
by sea, he was drowned by pirates. Of all his associates there is none 
who does not cherish his memory, and they have accordingly erected this 
stone as a testimony of their affection. 

THIRD SIDE. 

He was attacked by pirates near Chapoo, and being thrown overboard, 
perished in the sea. 

FOURTH SIDE. 

IN CHINESE. 

The Holy Book says — It is appointed unto man once to die, and after 
this the judgment, for the hour is coming in which all that are in the 
graves shall hear the voice of the Son of God, and shall come forth, they 
that have done good unto the resurrection of life, and they that have done 
evil unto the resurrection of damnation. 

The shaft is 4 feet 6 inches high; 2 feet 7 inches wide at the bottom, 
and 1 foot 9 inches at the top. The stone is a hard and smooth kind of 
granite, capable of a tolerable polish. 



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